This video is 10 years old and I'm just now finding it! Such a great example and excellent explanation of how to sharpen your convex blade! Thank you- 10 years later!
Same! I want to find an ultra rough strip like he has but everything I end up finding is smooth leather. Even the horse strop I have that’s supposed to be rough on one side smooth on the other the rough side just flattens down and is worse than the smooth side.
Another great video! Thank you for moving the camera so we could see your sharpening angle from the side. That's what I really needed. And for the comparative grits, and for the leather differences, and ....... oh, it was all good.
The only reason I know anything about this channel is because Dutch Bushcraft Knives, Mikke and Maarten, idolize this man. And rightfully so. Instant subscriber here.
I think the convexing is always a very good idea when we need a very sharp knife with easy maintenance. But it changes how it looks decently and will reduce its resale value much. I have Spyderco Pacific Salt. I once sharpened it but didn't convex it. I remember I cut my hand with it when cutting an orange. I need to convex it soon not to cut my hand again. A super sharp knife seems safer than a regular sharp knife to me. Thanks.
4 years back in time and still good advice... and entertainment! I mentioned in another post I love your cooking and hunting videos, but originally (I'd forgotten) I found and subscribed to your channel looking for these types of videos on sharpening and stropping. Great videos too! Keep up the great work.
I enjoy watching your videos. They are very informative. My friends and I enjoy watching you process the game that you harvested while hunting. Thank you for your videos.
Thank you very much for loading your love and dedication to the blades up to the internet so I can take care of my stuff the same way. I learned karate in my youth and was always very interested in your culture, the principles of showing and learning and perfection in everything so I’m very happy to have your guidance at hand when it comes to blades.
Hello , its me again.....with some feedback - again its one of the most usefull videos for good sharpening....at least for me - i found some green compound and used it on my home-made strop just like you said here ( heat treatment in the kitchen) and now all my knifes are razor sharp ( or like you say "scary sharp" ).....once again thank you for your tips - sayonara !!!
This is a very helpful video. Especially in the way you showed the proper stopping angle by using two different camera angles. Also, I found the part about how to properly strop the tip to be very helpful. Please consider making an updated video showing how you currently strop and what materias and compounds you use. Thanks!
I love that knife and after watching so many of your videos I think you enjoy taking good care of your knives as much as owning them.I hope your holidays are filled with peace.
Yes. The black has a very strong abrasive power and makes the bevel convex. The white is very strong but very fine too. So it doesn't make the bevel convex but polishes the edge super sharp. Thanks.
Virtuvoice, I’ve not been subscribed very long, but I am pleased to have found your playlist. Just listening and watching you work entertains me quite pleasantly. One year ago I began sharpening and I was no good!!! Now, I am better, not good, but always improving; improved significantly once I realized my technique was but a poor interpretation of a visualization. In other words, I was just mimicking the action. So, In my minds eye, my intended technique was NOT my ACTUAL technique. And hence I was incredibly inconsistent. But one day something clicked. I used my senses of sound & feel, I incorporated a bit of high school geometry, and Now I can put a edge on my blades. And when using these same senses when stropping,, I instantly became next level. But, I have need of your advice if you could be so kind to consider a response. I also LOVE convex. I sell handmade knive for my bladesmith friend, and I do lots of knife testing. Over time after many tests, I learn about blade geometry performance. And I agreed with you about this geometry. I’ll speak more of this in other video comments for now my 2 quick questions are: 1. Can you give me tips on getting my convex edge to its sharpest potential. I am struggling to get my (small/micro) bevels to reach full potential sharpness. Bigger size convex I am better and can get ok sharp. 2. Is there different levels of strop (leather) firmness? Perhaps Different thicknesses? What are benefits and drawbacks? 🤷♂️ now with better feel for stropping, I would prefer other levels of firmness but I can’t tell you why I feel this need. 🤷♂️ I feel like my current (one & only) strop is about, mmmm 🤔 medium firmness. Oh, I also struggle,,, my v edge quickly con-vexes from just stropping and feel less sharp. Any tips or techniques you could write me about? Thank you 🙏 I am excited to find so many of your episodes available . I get to bing watch 😎. Btw, I only comment on inspiring videos. I shall comment on many more of yours, I am sure! Ps If you address my question in this video, I apologize. I have only just started it. Thank you kind sir! Very pleased to find this channel... 🙂
Need so much help with my large outdoor knives. Got some “good ones” that turned out to not be so good and need to be sharpened. Thanks for this video.
Great and informative video, as always. I also had problems applying the green compound to the smooth side of my strop until I used WD-40 to spread the compound out evenly on the leather. Works like a charm. You should give it a try.
Since I strop kitchen knives too, I find that mineral oil works great. I kind of “melts” the compound and makes it easy to evenly spread the compound on the leather.
@bubajeb I know Fallkniven fans love their DC3 or DC4 whetstone. In my experience stropping the knife with a fine compound loaded leather after stone sharpening increases the sharpness drastically. Thanks.
@bradwjensen I watched the video now. When I use my regular waterstones and Edge Pro sharpening system, I put the edge onto the stone in both directions. But I put more power in pushing diredtion and less power in pulling direction. It's because I feel in my hand that in pushing direction the edge is beeing sharpened. But in case of the leather strop, if you push your knife onto it, the leather will surely be cut by the edge. So I just do pulling on the strop. Thank you!
@ferdia6 It's my individual habit to put much compound. I feel like I can more aggressively strop off the edge problem like micro rolls or micro chips after contacting bones in deer dressing on the thick compound. Just for regular maintenance less compound will be better. Thank you!
VG10 is on soft side and easy to sharpen. All Fallkniven knives have a micro V bevel and don't take this way unless you remove it at first. They recommend their stones to sharpen their knivs. Please take a look at my video "The real convex Fallkniven F1". Thanks.
The black compound comprises very coarse and hard abrasive particles and grind the metal very aggressively. The green compound comprises medium sized soft particles and its abrasive power is weak just in my opinion. The white compound comprises very fine and hard particles and polishes up the edge razor sharp. So I always skip the green compound now. Thanks.
I sometimes use water stones to restore a damaged convex edge or to remove the micro V bevel made by the maker on the convex primary bevel. But necessarily a leather strop gives perfect sharpness to a convex edge. Thanks.
This must be an old one because I watched one of your videos the other day and said you don't use green compound anymore. You use black and white. That's what I use as well 👍 love your videos.
It is Fallkniven NL5 IDUN and you can find it at Heinnie Hayness in the UK. It's a beautiful knife but a difficult knife too because it has a micro V edge from the factory and its leather washer handle is thin and slick. You have to get rid of the micro V edge at first to strop it sharp. In my experience only the Bark River knives have a genuine convex edge as a mass production knife. Please go to KnivesShipFree, DLT Trading, or The-Knife-Connection to check them. Thanks.
Thank you for your vid! You obviously know what you are doing, but when you actually sharpen the knife your technique is great. You don't get that good without careful practice :) By the way, that knife is beautiful even if the handle is slick when wet. Those leather rings used to make the handle have a historic flare!
@CanItAlready Surely the smooth side doesn't strop well. The rough side takes the compound better and strop the knife better. I recently use the DLT strops which has the rough side up. Thank you!
@ncomplex1 The black is coarse, the green is fine, and the white is super fine for a real razor. The green grinds more metal than the white but doesn't sharpen an edge more than the black in my experience. I guess it's because the size of abrasive particles in the green are not so fine as the ones in the white. The DLT leather strop takes the white compound exclusively well without heat. They are selling at Sharpeners < Bark Rivers < DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading, not at KSF. Thank you!
@Dtmdeman I am now using the DLT leather strop paddle. Of which leather is reverse side and very fine. It takes any compounds very well without heat. I don't use the green compound for any purpose now. The pair of black and white is excellent. The white bar and the DLT paddle are selling at DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading. Thank you!
3V is a very high wear resistant steel but at the same time if it had a small angle it would chip relatively easily. So Bark River takes fat geometry to make the edge angle larger on 3V Bravo1 and Bushcrafter, or secondary micro bevel on 3V Gunny and 3V Fox River in my experiences. They will say I am wrong in high probability though. Anyway for the reason their 3V knives are a bit difficult to take the same keenest edge as their A2 knives in my opinion. Thanks.
@virtuovice: Thank you I will now use the white compound as you said as soon as I acquire some. Thank you for the good informational videos. FYI I also have found the Busse knife to have inferior edge holding and sharpness but to not chipneven with extreme use. in my opinion Busse is only good for machete type blade or extreme VERY hard use smaller blade that will be resharpened but not damaged due to
@ayokay123 Yes, I like the Bark River blade geometry very much. Its convex is completely continuous from the starting line to the edge, while the F1 has a fairly wide flat beveled portion on its spine side and a deep angled convex bevel is blended onto it. The Fallkniven WM1 has the same blade geometry as the F1, so I did full height convexing on it and got razor sharpness finally. If I did the same thing on my F1, too, I had to grind off its cool black coating completely. I hate it. Thank you!
@sauliusipsc Now I mainly use a strop with very thin leather. So the edge doesn't sink into the leather during stropping and the edge goes very sharp. But its edge is weak. The sharp edge doesn't keep long. So I sometimes get back to this strop with fairly thick leather when the steel is relatively soft. It's because the soft steel needs deeper edge angle. Depending on the steels I use different strop for their proper edge angle. Thank you!
@ayokay123 I agree with you. The edge geometry of the F1 is deeper than Idun. So we cannot make it sharper than Idun despite of any attempt in my opinion. Some guy explained me that it's because the F1 is a survival knife, not a hunting knife. Thank you!
what an excellent tutorial, thank you. can you please let me know why you add so much compound to strop? I've often read to put on too LITTLE rather than too MUCH. Have you tried both methods and settled on this one? Thanks again
@Freedom100fan I just checked up the PHK. It's a long knife as Bark River Custom Skinner. PHK has a crescent shape blade and a good ergonomic handle, which must be good for careful and speedy skinning however not very good for getting back muscle in my opinion. I think it is for a big game hunter who needs leather more than meet. As you know I like removing the back strap best in dressing deers. For that purpose I think Bark River Custom Skinner should be better, just in my opinion.
What we need to do is getting rid of the shoulder between the primary bevel and the secondary V bevel. I prefer water stones to do it. My hands roll during honing and the newly made bevel goes slightly convex. And then the black compound stropping makes the bevel even deeper convex. I have many videos on it. The secondary V bevel is not for us at all but for a manufacturer to make the edge very easily by machine. I have never loved a V edge. Search my channel with "water stone sharpening".
Hello i was watching your videos and i find them very usefull .....you always use that white or black compound.....to be more precise what is it? ( and maybe you can tell me what other compounds are good to use if i dont find the same as yours on the market......really good video , thumbs up from me ! Thank you !
Interesting to me to see pre-made strops with the smooth side up because the first one I bought, from a woodworking website, had the rough side up. It came with aluminum oxide in powder form that gets my woodcarving knives dangerously sharp.
@nightwalker2830 When the black compound doesn't settle on the leather well, to heat the leather using a hair dryer seems good way. Heat it slowly step by step and you will reach the good temperature soon. Then the black compound will melt and settle onto the leather appropriately. Thank you.
@Freedom100fan I think PHK means H1. Fallkniven H1 is very difficult knife to use, and your arm must be tired after dressing. I think both are classic design knives, however American classic is much easier and more useful than Scandinavian classic in my opinion.
@310shadow310 My regular quality kitchen knife is easy to take micro chips in regular kitchen jobs. Regularly I let them there and strop it. It's my regular way on the kitchen knives to keep them sharp. I don't think the stone itself would make little nicks on your edge. I use #1000 and #3000 stones. Thank you!
I finally picked up a leather strop as well as the otter box kit. I also got a opinel no8 to practice on, and indeed it was good practice. Out of the box it seemed it was not sharpened properly as it had a secondary edge on one side. I was able to fix it with the sandpaper. The knife is sharp, but not razor sharp, but it's because the edge is not straight, it's like wavy in some areas. How can I fix this?
I now use DLT Two Sided Paddle Strop and Bark River black and white compounds. Please go to DLT Trading > Bark River knives > Bark River sharpening. Thanks.
@MrMike2blu Thank you. Yes, from KSF, but now it is sold out. If you ask them they will make it I guess, because it is an decent stuff. It cost me around 40 dollars.
@TheWoollyMammoth I now don't use the green compound at all, because it does not make the edge any sharper than the black compound. Instead I now use Bark River white compound after the black compound. It makes the edge twice sharper. Thanks.
How often to you reapply the compound ? Also how do clean off old compound to remove excess metal from strop or is it even necessary? Thanks for another great video 👍🏻
I’ve found that mineral oil works great for a) “melting” the compound so it smooths in evenly, and b) exposing clean (green) compound when the it gets black. Not sure why it exposes the clean stuff, but it does!
I was also able to put a convexed edge on one of my kitchen knives. Unfortunately it has some micro chips in it and I can't seem to get rid of them. Do I need to adjust my angle?
@virtuovice: Have you in your opinion found any advantage to stropping to another level with even finer compounds for greater polish or is stoping at the green just as good?
@virtuovice Thanks, I was actually able to get my opinel razor sharp regardless. Yea, the kitchen knives are like that which is why I was able to convex the edge so easily. And yea, with it cutting stuff all the time and hitting cutting boards and plates it would probably be mind numbing to worry about chips all the time. Thanks, looking forward to your next vids.
This video is 10 years old and I'm just now finding it! Such a great example and excellent explanation of how to sharpen your convex blade! Thank you- 10 years later!
Cant stop watching this guy,he’s great.
Same! I want to find an ultra rough strip like he has but everything I end up finding is smooth leather. Even the horse strop I have that’s supposed to be rough on one side smooth on the other the rough side just flattens down and is worse than the smooth side.
same to me ...Fascinating
Another great video! Thank you for moving the camera so we could see your sharpening angle from the side. That's what I really needed. And for the comparative grits, and for the leather differences, and ....... oh, it was all good.
The only reason I know anything about this channel is because Dutch Bushcraft Knives, Mikke and Maarten, idolize this man. And rightfully so. Instant subscriber here.
I think the convexing is always a very good idea when we need a very sharp knife with easy maintenance. But it changes how it looks decently and will reduce its resale value much. I have Spyderco Pacific Salt. I once sharpened it but didn't convex it. I remember I cut my hand with it when cutting an orange. I need to convex it soon not to cut my hand again. A super sharp knife seems safer than a regular sharp knife to me. Thanks.
4 years back in time and still good advice... and entertainment! I mentioned in another post I love your cooking and hunting videos, but originally (I'd forgotten) I found and subscribed to your channel looking for these types of videos on sharpening and stropping. Great videos too! Keep up the great work.
I enjoy watching your videos. They are very informative. My friends and I enjoy watching you process the game that you harvested while hunting. Thank you for your videos.
The heat treatment is a game changer!! I always had such a hard time applying compound. It was uneven and flaked off but this!! So good!
Thank you very much for loading your love and dedication to the blades up to the internet so I can take care of my stuff the same way. I learned karate in my youth and was always very interested in your culture, the principles of showing and learning and perfection in everything so I’m very happy to have your guidance at hand when it comes to blades.
Beautiful technique! I learned of your channel recently from DBK, and I am very grateful that you have shared your knowledge and passion.
Thank you for the demonstration. You have solved one of the problems I’ve been having loading the strop
It is entertaining watching your trained hand sharpening steel. Thank you for your wisdom. Carl-California USA
Excellent video. I followed this video & got my dull convex grind Wes Whipple Bowie sharp in no time. Thank you! Greg from Kodiak.
Hello again, Doctor. I agree with you. Stropping is an activity to be enjoyed. I like the sound it makes!
Hello , its me again.....with some feedback - again its one of the most usefull videos for good sharpening....at least for me - i found some green compound and used it on my home-made strop just like you said here ( heat treatment in the kitchen) and now all my knifes are razor sharp ( or like you say "scary sharp" ).....once again thank you for your tips - sayonara !!!
Great tutorial on proper sharpening, thanks for posting 👍😁
Great video!!! The 3D side angle was awesome with the marker as tutorial. Much appreciated!
This is a very helpful video. Especially in the way you showed the proper stopping angle by using two different camera angles. Also, I found the part about how to properly strop the tip to be very helpful.
Please consider making an updated video showing how you currently strop and what materias and compounds you use. Thanks!
I love that knife and after watching so many of your videos I think you enjoy taking good care of your knives as much as owning them.I hope your holidays are filled with peace.
Excellent video as always. I learn a lot from you every time I watch. Thank You
This should have millions of views. Thank you.
Thank you! The part on strop preparation was where I have been having trouble.
Thanks the video and the tip on heating up the leather before applying the compound.
Yes. The black has a very strong abrasive power and makes the bevel convex. The white is very strong but very fine too. So it doesn't make the bevel convex but polishes the edge super sharp. Thanks.
yes! sharpening IS entertaining! i enjoy your videos very much and listening to you talk is pleasing! :) thankyou
Virtuvoice, I’ve not been subscribed very long, but I am pleased to have found your playlist. Just listening and watching you work entertains me quite pleasantly. One year ago I began sharpening and I was no good!!! Now, I am better, not good, but always improving; improved significantly once I realized my technique was but a poor interpretation of a visualization. In other words, I was just mimicking the action. So, In my minds eye, my intended technique was NOT my ACTUAL technique. And hence I was incredibly inconsistent.
But one day something clicked.
I used my senses of sound & feel, I incorporated a bit of high school geometry, and
Now I can put a edge on my blades. And when using these same senses when stropping,, I instantly became next level. But, I have need of your advice if you could be so kind to consider a response.
I also LOVE convex. I sell handmade knive for my bladesmith friend, and I do lots of knife testing. Over time after many tests, I learn about blade geometry performance. And I agreed with you about this geometry. I’ll speak more of this in other video comments for now my 2 quick questions are:
1. Can you give me tips on getting my convex edge to its sharpest potential. I am struggling to get my (small/micro) bevels to reach full potential sharpness. Bigger size convex I am better and can get ok sharp.
2. Is there different levels of strop (leather) firmness? Perhaps Different thicknesses? What are benefits and drawbacks? 🤷♂️ now with better feel for stropping, I would prefer other levels of firmness but I can’t tell you why I feel this need. 🤷♂️ I feel like my current (one & only) strop is about, mmmm 🤔 medium firmness.
Oh, I also struggle,,, my v edge quickly con-vexes from just stropping and feel less sharp. Any tips or techniques you could write me about? Thank you 🙏
I am excited to find so many of your episodes available . I get to bing watch 😎.
Btw, I only comment on inspiring videos. I shall comment on many more of yours, I am sure!
Ps
If you address my question in this video, I apologize. I have only just started it.
Thank you kind sir! Very pleased to find this channel... 🙂
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you. I enjoy all of your RUclips presentations.
Great recommendation for starting at the tips when stropping. Thanks very much for another great video.
A very good video, you have made me think differently about how I strop my knife. Thank you, so glad I found this!
Stropping is a lot of fun. I enjoy it. I also enjoy your videos.
Tremendous video! Especially the part about scotch brighting and heating the leather.
Need so much help with my large outdoor knives. Got some “good ones” that turned out to not be so good and need to be sharpened. Thanks for this video.
"The reason is...I don't know". Hahaha...Keep up the good work Virtuovice, I have made my sharpening technique better by watching your videos.
Thanks very much for this video, I’ve just ordered a strop and can’t wait to use it on my f1 and bravo 1 👍✌️
Very good. You are picking up the concepts and skill very well.
Wow! That is great lesson of sharpenning knifes! Great videos!!! Keep it up and thank you very much.
Great and informative video, as always.
I also had problems applying the green compound to the smooth side of my strop until I used WD-40 to spread the compound out evenly on the leather. Works like a charm. You should give it a try.
Since I strop kitchen knives too, I find that mineral oil works great. I kind of “melts” the compound and makes it easy to evenly spread the compound on the leather.
What an incredible teacher you are - the way you use the english language makes me want to learn Japanese!
Very helpful revue
Thanks for sharing
Greetings from France
Thank you for the very informative video, as always. I appreciate your taking the time to share what you have learned. Peace,
-Yogi
Wako, you have beautiful technique. Mesmerizing watching your vids
@bubajeb I know Fallkniven fans love their DC3 or DC4 whetstone. In my experience stropping the knife with a fine compound loaded leather after stone sharpening increases the sharpness drastically. Thanks.
I don't know much about knives at all but I love everything about your voice.
Would one say that it makes you wet?
@bradwjensen I watched the video now. When I use my regular waterstones and Edge Pro sharpening system, I put the edge onto the stone in both directions. But I put more power in pushing diredtion and less power in pulling direction. It's because I feel in my hand that in pushing direction the edge is beeing sharpened. But in case of the leather strop, if you push your knife onto it, the leather will surely be cut by the edge. So I just do pulling on the strop. Thank you!
Thanks for great video. I have a Fallkniven A1 on order and was looking how to strop a convex. Take care
Yes. I am from Japan.
Is it a Fallkniven Idun NL5?
@ferdia6 It's my individual habit to put much compound. I feel like I can more aggressively strop off the edge problem like micro rolls or micro chips after contacting bones in deer dressing on the thick compound. Just for regular maintenance less compound will be better. Thank you!
Thank you sir! Best regards from Australia
man these are really great tips thanks a lot
Fallkniven NL5 IDUN. Its handle was thin and slick. Its bevel geometry was nice. I sold it away a while ago. Thanks.
great video again
thank you i will look at these company,s.you have been most helpful....
VG10 is on soft side and easy to sharpen. All Fallkniven knives have a micro V bevel and don't take this way unless you remove it at first. They recommend their stones to sharpen their knivs. Please take a look at my video "The real convex Fallkniven F1". Thanks.
I so appreciate you videos. Thank you.
Thank you for this video! Now I know how to sharpen my Fallkniven f1:)
Complimenti. I tuoi video sono unici👍
You are great instructor
The black compound comprises very coarse and hard abrasive particles and grind the metal very aggressively. The green compound comprises medium sized soft particles and its abrasive power is weak just in my opinion. The white compound comprises very fine and hard particles and polishes up the edge razor sharp. So I always skip the green compound now. Thanks.
Wow.. Once again excellent review!
I sometimes use water stones to restore a damaged convex edge or to remove the micro V bevel made by the maker on the convex primary bevel. But necessarily a leather strop gives perfect sharpness to a convex edge. Thanks.
Fantastic video! Thank you.
This must be an old one because I watched one of your videos the other day and said you don't use green compound anymore. You use black and white. That's what I use as well 👍 love your videos.
It is Fallkniven NL5 IDUN and you can find it at Heinnie Hayness in the UK. It's a beautiful knife but a difficult knife too because it has a micro V edge from the factory and its leather washer handle is thin and slick. You have to get rid of the micro V edge at first to strop it sharp. In my experience only the Bark River knives have a genuine convex edge as a mass production knife. Please go to KnivesShipFree, DLT Trading, or The-Knife-Connection to check them. Thanks.
Thank you for your vid! You obviously know what you are doing, but when you actually sharpen the knife your technique is great. You don't get that good without careful practice :)
By the way, that knife is beautiful even if the handle is slick when wet. Those leather rings used to make the handle have a historic flare!
@CanItAlready Surely the smooth side doesn't strop well. The rough side takes the compound better and strop the knife better. I recently use the DLT strops which has the rough side up. Thank you!
@ncomplex1 The black is coarse, the green is fine, and the white is super fine for a real razor. The green grinds more metal than the white but doesn't sharpen an edge more than the black in my experience. I guess it's because the size of abrasive particles in the green are not so fine as the ones in the white. The DLT leather strop takes the white compound exclusively well without heat. They are selling at Sharpeners < Bark Rivers < DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading, not at KSF. Thank you!
@Dtmdeman I am now using the DLT leather strop paddle. Of which leather is reverse side and very fine. It takes any compounds very well without heat. I don't use the green compound for any purpose now. The pair of black and white is excellent. The white bar and the DLT paddle are selling at DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading. Thank you!
3V is a very high wear resistant steel but at the same time if it had a small angle it would chip relatively easily. So Bark River takes fat geometry to make the edge angle larger on 3V Bravo1 and Bushcrafter, or secondary micro bevel on 3V Gunny and 3V Fox River in my experiences. They will say I am wrong in high probability though. Anyway for the reason their 3V knives are a bit difficult to take the same keenest edge as their A2 knives in my opinion. Thanks.
@virtuovice: Thank you I will now use the white compound as you said as soon as I acquire some. Thank you for the good informational videos. FYI I also have found the Busse knife to have inferior edge holding and sharpness but to not chipneven with extreme use. in my opinion Busse is only good for machete type blade or extreme VERY hard use smaller blade that will be resharpened but not damaged due to
@ayokay123 Yes, I like the Bark River blade geometry very much. Its convex is completely continuous from the starting line to the edge, while the F1 has a fairly wide flat beveled portion on its spine side and a deep angled convex bevel is blended onto it. The Fallkniven WM1 has the same blade geometry as the F1, so I did full height convexing on it and got razor sharpness finally. If I did the same thing on my F1, too, I had to grind off its cool black coating completely. I hate it. Thank you!
@sauliusipsc Now I mainly use a strop with very thin leather. So the edge doesn't sink into the leather during stropping and the edge goes very sharp. But its edge is weak. The sharp edge doesn't keep long. So I sometimes get back to this strop with fairly thick leather when the steel is relatively soft. It's because the soft steel needs deeper edge angle. Depending on the steels I use different strop for their proper edge angle. Thank you!
Very nice video! subscribed! Keep up the good work!
I have to agree free hand sharpening is very entertaining.
How would you put a convex edge on an Ontario Rat 3? Leather strop using sandpaper? Thanks for all the great info you share on your videos.
Excellent vid very accurate...
You're getting really good now :D
great video sir
I assume it's very similar, but I wish I could see your technique stroping the convex edge on a large blade. Like 12" blade or something.
@ayokay123 I agree with you. The edge geometry of the F1 is deeper than Idun. So we cannot make it sharper than Idun despite of any attempt in my opinion. Some guy explained me that it's because the F1 is a survival knife, not a hunting knife. Thank you!
what an excellent tutorial, thank you.
can you please let me know why you add so much compound to strop?
I've often read to put on too LITTLE rather than too MUCH.
Have you tried both methods and settled on this one?
Thanks again
@Freedom100fan I just checked up the PHK. It's a long knife as Bark River Custom Skinner. PHK has a crescent shape blade and a good ergonomic handle, which must be good for careful and speedy skinning however not very good for getting back muscle in my opinion. I think it is for a big game hunter who needs leather more than meet. As you know I like removing the back strap best in dressing deers. For that purpose I think Bark River Custom Skinner should be better, just in my opinion.
What we need to do is getting rid of the shoulder between the primary bevel and the secondary V bevel. I prefer water stones to do it. My hands roll during honing and the newly made bevel goes slightly convex. And then the black compound stropping makes the bevel even deeper convex. I have many videos on it. The secondary V bevel is not for us at all but for a manufacturer to make the edge very easily by machine. I have never loved a V edge. Search my channel with "water stone sharpening".
I was like you on this not so long ago. I guess practice makes perfect. Good video Virtuovice
Hello i was watching your videos and i find them very usefull .....you always use that white or black compound.....to be more precise what is it? ( and maybe you can tell me what other compounds are good to use if i dont find the same as yours on the market......really good video , thumbs up from me ! Thank you !
Interesting to me to see pre-made strops with the smooth side up because the first one I bought, from a woodworking website, had the rough side up. It came with aluminum oxide in powder form that gets my woodcarving knives dangerously sharp.
@nightwalker2830 When the black compound doesn't settle on the leather well, to heat the leather using a hair dryer seems good way. Heat it slowly step by step and you will reach the good temperature soon. Then the black compound will melt and settle onto the leather appropriately. Thank you.
Yes. I use Bark River black and white compound.
hello i am in uk,your knife looks very good quality what is it where could i find.i look for quality but never seem to find
@Freedom100fan I think PHK means H1. Fallkniven H1 is very difficult knife to use, and your arm must be tired after dressing. I think both are classic design knives, however American classic is much easier and more useful than Scandinavian classic in my opinion.
@310shadow310 My regular quality kitchen knife is easy to take micro chips in regular kitchen jobs. Regularly I let them there and strop it. It's my regular way on the kitchen knives to keep them sharp. I don't think the stone itself would make little nicks on your edge. I use #1000 and #3000 stones. Thank you!
I finally picked up a leather strop as well as the otter box kit. I also got a opinel no8 to practice on, and indeed it was good practice. Out of the box it seemed it was not sharpened properly as it had a secondary edge on one side. I was able to fix it with the sandpaper. The knife is sharp, but not razor sharp, but it's because the edge is not straight, it's like wavy in some areas. How can I fix this?
I now use DLT Two Sided Paddle Strop and Bark River black and white compounds. Please go to DLT Trading > Bark River knives > Bark River sharpening. Thanks.
@severzero No, I cannot. I think in order to take the convex edge superiority, I need to sharpen it on the compound loaded leather strop. Thanks!
Never question a Japanese edge. Thanks!
@MrMike2blu Thank you. Yes, from KSF, but now it is sold out. If you ask them they will make it I guess, because it is an decent stuff. It cost me around 40 dollars.
@TheWoollyMammoth I now don't use the green compound at all, because it does not make the edge any sharper than the black compound. Instead I now use Bark River white compound after the black compound. It makes the edge twice sharper. Thanks.
How often to you reapply the compound ? Also how do clean off old compound to remove excess metal from strop or is it even necessary?
Thanks for another great video 👍🏻
I’ve found that mineral oil works great for a) “melting” the compound so it smooths in evenly, and b) exposing clean (green) compound when the it gets black. Not sure why it exposes the clean stuff, but it does!
I was also able to put a convexed edge on one of my kitchen knives. Unfortunately it has some micro chips in it and I can't seem to get rid of them. Do I need to adjust my angle?
@virtuovice: Have you in your opinion found any advantage to stropping to another level with even finer compounds for greater polish or is stoping at the green just as good?
great video. great series. automatically subscribed to your channel. thanks.
@virtuovice Thanks, I was actually able to get my opinel razor sharp regardless. Yea, the kitchen knives are like that which is why I was able to convex the edge so easily. And yea, with it cutting stuff all the time and hitting cutting boards and plates it would probably be mind numbing to worry about chips all the time. Thanks, looking forward to your next vids.