I laid only a few bricks all my life while helping the mason working on my backyard's wall. Got curious and watched this video. Excellent. Learned a few new things from here. Thanks :)
Those are Great Tips. That durowall works great for single wydth brick planters too (no need for the expense of double wydth for strength). Just use that 4" durowall every other course and parge thick the inside and those planters will last 20 plus years. Guaranteed if I build it. ... use Type S too. and put in plenty of weep holes (open head joints at the bottom looks more natural and better than those doo-hickys).
we drilled holes through the back leg on the lintel then use lag bolts attached to the wooden header , aprox 2 foot centers, duro-wall is for load bearing purposes on concrete block walls , and it will make a wall crack, the piece of cotton rope at the end is a good thing to do
I've been in the trade all My life so here goes. The angle iron should be laged in about the door washer,bolt,nut. Seen where the comment said they NEVER "flashed" over the door however if there is alot of wall above the door you not only need to flash it "weep" holes would come in handy. The number #1 reason the brick crack above a garage door is the door gets slammed down to close it and shakes the structure each and every time. Solution? Garage door opener. If the brick work is done right that should and will stop the cracks.
1:13-ish, there is not need for these stiff knees. One angle leg needs to be taller than the other leg, removing the weakness of the steel. However, it would not hurt, it needs to be firm, but not lifting the steel, or when it is removed, the wall will sink a little and possibly cracks. Where are the gloves, safety glasses, and other PPE? Lapping of the wire, good practice. 5:19, what? No, a control joint is required. the wall will crack vertically and uncontrollably with out a control joint.
Why would you want to put stress on the brick above the lintel? Once the temporary supports are removed, the angle will deflect which will put stress on the brick and mortar joints. Depending on the stiffness of the lintel, this could crack the mortar.
+AddictedFishing1 The weight of the the bricks when the motar is wet can put a bow on the lintel which is not good, once the motar is dry there wont be as much downward pressure in the center because the structure will be solid and the lintel wont deflect when you remove the supports.. assuming you're using the correct lintel that is
+Jeremy Meehan For anyone who is going to try this temporary support method to control lintel deflection, please consult a structural engineer prior to doing so. The lintel size should be sized to satisfy deflection criteria by the engineer. By providing and removing temporary supports, you transfer stress from the lintel to the brick and mortar. Mortar has about ZERO strength in tension so you may crack the mortar once the temporary supports are removed.
AddictedFishing1 All new homes, commercial buildings have their lintels specified by engineers etc. Been building them for 10+ years, i can assure you that some lintels(specified by an engineer) will deflect given a certain amount of weight on them. Large openings usually have an expansion joint on either side. I have never had a brickwork crack above a lintel when pulling out supports and we don't use wire mesh of the lintel, only on the top course of some houses. I can also assure you that if you dont support your lintel and it deflects, the builder will make you pull it down and repair it at your expense. Experience is the key here.
any one ever tuck point a wall with durawall (wire) in it? the bed joints with durawall always seem to be the ones that fail caused by the wire expanding due to rust causing the mortar to fall out
I have always laid 2 courses of brick over the angle iron, nailed wall ties in the house and then put a third course on and let it set overnight (with the stiff legs under the iron aswell). Never have fooled with any flashing or wire. If you're getting that much water behind the brick,you must have left the soldier course off.
You musta been a brick layer for the world trade center.. excellent work, they held together nicely.. or maybe you work for ball homes.. because those homes are just great also, they stand the test of time for months on end...
Why are you spreading mortar on the steel lintel. I was taught in Masonry class and on the job training to never do this. Overtime the mortar will decay the peel and stick flashing and then it will also decay the rust proofing over the lintel causing the lintel to rust away
chrispasley100 right how does the water get out ? So why even flash it anything on a steel lintels we always put in dry with head joints and weep hole vents . I work for a commercial masonry comp
Jimmy Legendre Sometimes you HAVE to bed up the first course but always make sure the the drain perps are cleaned out as well as the void behind the first course. Another thing, we typically use a metal flashing on top of the ice and water shield or blueskin as we call it. The initial reason for this response was to say that I’ve noticed on double wide garage doors the lintel always looks like it’s sagging even if it’s dead nuts level. So to prevent that illusion we would bolt the one end of the ledge steel then place a 1/2” wedge in the centre and bolt the other end of the steel down, so that the steel would have a 1/2” rise in the middle. And voila the illusion of a sagging lintel gone.
I laid only a few bricks all my life while helping the mason working on my backyard's wall.
Got curious and watched this video. Excellent. Learned a few new things from here. Thanks :)
I have viewed several "RUclips" videos relating to tips and tricks when laying brick and your video was by far the best. Thanks.
Ok, so how do you affix the steel lentil to the house… is it bolted to the framing… or does it just sit on the brick at each end?
Great video. That tip at 5.36 is alone worth the watch.
Great video, Thank You for the great advise!
Those are Great Tips. That durowall works great for single wydth brick planters too (no need for the expense of double wydth for strength). Just use that 4" durowall every other course and parge thick the inside and those planters will last 20 plus years. Guaranteed if I build it. ... use Type S too. and put in plenty of weep holes (open head joints at the bottom looks more natural and better than those doo-hickys).
Thanks for sharing this information
we drilled holes through the back leg on the lintel then use lag bolts attached to the wooden header , aprox 2 foot centers, duro-wall is for load bearing purposes on concrete block walls , and it will make a wall crack, the piece of cotton rope at the end is a good thing to do
great information thanks
All you have to do is drill the header of the garage and bolt the angle iron to the header, with the stiff legs in place.
cool video,great tips,thanks
Thank you
I've been in the trade all My life so here goes. The angle iron should be laged in about the door washer,bolt,nut. Seen where the comment said they NEVER "flashed" over the door however if there is alot of wall above the door you not only need to flash it "weep" holes would come in handy. The number #1 reason the brick crack above a garage door is the door gets slammed down to close it and shakes the structure each and every time. Solution? Garage door opener. If the brick work is done right that should and will stop the cracks.
THANK YOU!!!!!
Thanks, awesome knowledge and technique.
The master knows what he's talking about.
Programmer what's his name
You are a master just like him!
Brilliant!!!
Thanks so much.
awsmm video sir
Question.. what kinda car is that garage for? Like a roomba style car or a 4wd lifted on some 36’s? Or is it a dock? I dont get it..
1:13-ish, there is not need for these stiff knees. One angle leg needs to be taller than the other leg, removing the weakness of the steel. However, it would not hurt, it needs to be firm, but not lifting the steel, or when it is removed, the wall will sink a little and possibly cracks. Where are the gloves, safety glasses, and other PPE? Lapping of the wire, good practice. 5:19, what? No, a control joint is required. the wall will crack vertically and uncontrollably with out a control joint.
great video
Why would you want to put stress on the brick above the lintel? Once the temporary supports are removed, the angle will deflect which will put stress on the brick and mortar joints. Depending on the stiffness of the lintel, this could crack the mortar.
+AddictedFishing1 The weight of the the bricks when the motar is wet can put a bow on the lintel which is not good, once the motar is dry there wont be as much downward pressure in the center because the structure will be solid and the lintel wont deflect when you remove the supports.. assuming you're using the correct lintel that is
+Jeremy Meehan For anyone who is going to try this temporary support method to control lintel deflection, please consult a structural engineer prior to doing so. The lintel size should be sized to satisfy deflection criteria by the engineer. By providing and removing temporary supports, you transfer stress from the lintel to the brick and mortar. Mortar has about ZERO strength in tension so you may crack the mortar once the temporary supports are removed.
AddictedFishing1
All new homes, commercial buildings have their lintels specified by engineers etc. Been building them for 10+ years, i can assure you that some lintels(specified by an engineer) will deflect given a certain amount of weight on them. Large openings usually have an expansion joint on either side. I have never had a brickwork crack above a lintel when pulling out supports and we don't use wire mesh of the lintel, only on the top course of some houses. I can also assure you that if you dont support your lintel and it deflects, the builder will make you pull it down and repair it at your expense. Experience is the key here.
any one ever tuck point a wall with durawall (wire) in it? the bed joints with durawall always seem to be the ones that fail caused by the wire expanding due to rust causing the mortar to fall out
David Dolensek
No, can't say i have, does the wire not have a galvanised finish?
more videos please
I have always laid 2 courses of brick over the angle iron, nailed wall ties in the house and then put a third course on and let it set overnight (with the stiff legs under the iron aswell). Never have fooled with any flashing or wire. If you're getting that much water behind the brick,you must have left the soldier course off.
Put expansion joints at each end
sam bugeja you don't need too however his way is not the way you do that!
👍👍👍👍
Even if this was non load bearing it seems like a long span for a steel angle.
excelente. para una tesis
pero no se ingles .....
Good tips.
flashing on lintel is cut to short. Wire should extend further to spread the load.
tray damp ??
what's this guy's name
Rust proofing on the lintel** Correction. - Mason for 12 years
just use a strong enough lintel and you wont need this mesh stuff! or those temp supports!
Steve Craft close enough
handy tip.....all i ever see is mud strait on to both lintels...(back n front) and thats that.....brick away.....
I would just rather build in a steel lintel than piss around with that and temp supports.
It's a nightmare to lay your bricks on top of that stuff....it obvious you've never done price work if you do all this nonsense when you build walls
You musta been a brick layer for the world trade center.. excellent work, they held together nicely.. or maybe you work for ball homes.. because those homes are just great also, they stand the test of time for months on end...
Why are you spreading mortar on the steel lintel. I was taught in Masonry class and on the job training to never do this. Overtime the mortar will decay the peel and stick flashing and then it will also decay the rust proofing over the lintel causing the lintel to rust away
chrispasley10
chrispasley100 right how does the water get out ? So why even flash it anything on a steel lintels we always put in dry with head joints and weep hole vents . I work for a commercial masonry comp
Jimmy Legendre
Sometimes you HAVE to bed up the first course but always make sure the the drain perps are cleaned out as well as the void behind the first course.
Another thing, we typically use a metal flashing on top of the ice and water shield or blueskin as we call it.
The initial reason for this response was to say that I’ve noticed on double wide garage doors the lintel always looks like it’s sagging even if it’s dead nuts level.
So to prevent that illusion we would bolt the one end of the ledge steel then place a 1/2” wedge in the centre and bolt the other end of the steel down, so that the steel would have a 1/2” rise in the middle. And voila the illusion of a sagging lintel gone.
LarJgrip nice good tip ..thanks
Your lintel is to small for the opening
Hay a oi
Steal moving 0.11mm in 1m length....don't forget !
ah Mcgee brothers. I used to work for them in the early 2000s. Their brick work always looks like shit.
feb mix lol
Á
The lintel you're using is NOT the right size no wonder it cracks. That is not a bond beam. Cluelessness!