Thanks for the new idea. I may try it next time. Can't wait to see your follow up video of the figs success rate. I cut about 20(?) and just stuck them in the ground in about late January, zone 8 near Dallas. I used no growth harmone or any kind of protection. 7 have leafed out and 2 have green buds, and 2 have brown buds on greenish wood. I am thinking I will have more budding out soon as the weather gets warmer. Edited for more detail.
I cut off the tips in Dec before they die. I have had good success rooting them. And the pinched back buds make the nicest little trees with multiple branching. Those trees alway sell fast. 8 inch tree with 4 or 5 apical tips. And I use 24 oz clear cups placed in solid color cups. East to check root progress without disturbing and are all reusable.
Since I can't see for sure if there are roots, once they start sprouting I mostly I wait and see, but if I only have one cutting of a type or there is some other reason I need it to survive, I will place a plastic bag loosely over the top to keep the humidity higher around the leaves to buy some more time. Just make sure it isn't in the sun or it will heat up in the bag and cook your cutting.
Rotting often comes from keeping the media too wet. It really only needs to be slightly moist. You can add some additional perlite to the ProMix to make it drain more if you are having lots of rotting issues, but best to just make sure you aren't getting it too wet. Keeping it too wet will also encourage fungus gnats. If you get fungus gnats, a product like Gnatrol (similar to mosquito dunks) will work. I also just keep some sundew carnivorous plants around and they do a great job keeping fungus gnats down if you only have a small population.
Sorry I missed this. 4 Mile Green is the name I've given for an unknown Adriatic type that I found growing in an abandoned plot at the 4 Mile Run Community Garden where I have a plot. In all likelihood it is Verte, JH Adriatic or something along those lines, so I just use this name for now. But it has been very hardy (I've never seen winter kill) and has great figs so I make a lot of fig trees of this variety to offer locally.
Hi. Thanks for the question. 4MG is just a short way for me to write "4 Mile Green", which is what I call this variety. It is an unknown variety found growing in a local community garden known as 4 Mile Run Gardens. It is an excellent Adriatic type green fig that ripens a little later than my JH Adriatic and Battaglia Green figs, but has a similar taste. It has also proven very hardy with no signs of winter die back even when other local figs growing out in the open have at least some die back at the tips. There is another fig I've gotten from there I call 4 Mile Dark (labelled 4MD) which is a great dark fig with a really large and productive Breba fig. I haven't been able to identify that one either, so I just use these names for now.
I just started rooting my fig cuttings. I have them in a bucket with a lid and in coco coir about 2 nodes deep each cutting with a heat mat at 85 degrees temp regulated. There is condensation in it and every now and then I open it up for some air. Some of the buds are starting to green and poke out and attempt to leaf, so I was wondering if I'm doing this wrong and am accelerating leaf development rather than roots as it's humid in the bucket. I was under the impression that humidity would be good so that the cuttings wouldn't dry out. Should I cut back any leaf growth or continue doing what I'm doing?
If you are covering the bucket, you are keeping the heat in around the tops of the cuttings as well so that is pushing top growth. When using a heat mat with cuttings you want to try to keep the tops cooler so this doesn't happen. I would keep the top off the bucket and try to seal the tops of the individual cuttings if you are continuing with that method. I'm not sure about cutting back top growth at this point, since I haven't tested that and I haven't had a need with the method I use shown in this video. You may want to go to one of the fig forums like www.ourfigs.com where someone might have more experience with pushing cuttings with a heat mat.
@@GardeningwithZiggy Thank you, will do. I only put the heat mat because I read that it stimulated root growth. I'll keep the heat mat going with the lid off. Hopefully this slows the cuttings down a bit as most of the buds have already began to break. No leaves yet, but the buds have erupted and are green. I'll have to purchase some parafilm.
I use ProMix BX for most of my rooting and general container growing use. If I was just buying it to root cuttings I'd probably use ProMix HP, which has more perlite for increased drainage, but I find the BX works just fine for me.
I use ProMix BX, which is a peat based mix with a good amount of perlite and some vermiculite, but no added fertilizer. You can add more perlite if you want increased drainage or use ProMix HP which is basically a faster draining version of the BX. These are good at providing an even moisture without promoting rot and they also come with Mycorrhizae (good fungus for symbiotic relationship with roots) as well as a biofungacide that helps reduce other molds or rots that can attack the cutting before it takes. This is the same thing I use as the base for my potted figs, but I add some pine fines for those since they'll be a few years between repotting so it is good to have the fines to keep the mix a little looser and faster draining. They seem expensive at first, but come in compressed bales that are as much material as the 8-10 of those loose bags of potting soil you get at Lowes, etc. so actually a good deal for the amount of material you get and the quality. Here's one place to get the ProMix BX: www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/gardening/peat-moss/7008399
@@rhw7879 It is actually what many nurseries use for seed starting, potting up, etc. So like a lot of things not available in the big box stores, well worth tracking down.
Sure. That would work just fine. The main thing is to avoid the cutting losing mosture through the cut off end at the top. Just be careful to use grafting wax or another low melting point wax like beeswax so it isn't hot enough to damage the bark or any buds it covers.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Could you dip the tops in Wax?
Nice simple and easy …yes don’t make it too complicated 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thanks for the new idea. I may try it next time. Can't wait to see your follow up video of the figs success rate. I cut about 20(?) and just stuck them in the ground in about late January, zone 8 near Dallas. I used no growth harmone or any kind of protection. 7 have leafed out and 2 have green buds, and 2 have brown buds on greenish wood. I am thinking I will have more budding out soon as the weather gets warmer. Edited for more detail.
I cut off the tips in Dec before they die. I have had good success rooting them. And the pinched back buds make the nicest little trees with multiple branching. Those trees alway sell fast. 8 inch tree with 4 or 5 apical tips. And I use 24 oz clear cups placed in solid color cups. East to check root progress without disturbing and are all reusable.
What you did if the cutting sprout before grow roots?? You just waiting to see if surviving or you follow any tips??
Since I can't see for sure if there are roots, once they start sprouting I mostly I wait and see, but if I only have one cutting of a type or there is some other reason I need it to survive, I will place a plastic bag loosely over the top to keep the humidity higher around the leaves to buy some more time. Just make sure it isn't in the sun or it will heat up in the bag and cook your cutting.
How do you keep it from rotting and getting fungus gnats?
Rotting often comes from keeping the media too wet. It really only needs to be slightly moist. You can add some additional perlite to the ProMix to make it drain more if you are having lots of rotting issues, but best to just make sure you aren't getting it too wet. Keeping it too wet will also encourage fungus gnats. If you get fungus gnats, a product like Gnatrol (similar to mosquito dunks) will work. I also just keep some sundew carnivorous plants around and they do a great job keeping fungus gnats down if you only have a small population.
Great video!!! What variety is 5 Mile Green ? I've never heard of that one.
Sorry I missed this. 4 Mile Green is the name I've given for an unknown Adriatic type that I found growing in an abandoned plot at the 4 Mile Run Community Garden where I have a plot. In all likelihood it is Verte, JH Adriatic or something along those lines, so I just use this name for now. But it has been very hardy (I've never seen winter kill) and has great figs so I make a lot of fig trees of this variety to offer locally.
@GardeningwithZiggy oh ok, that's pretty awesome man!!!
HI Ziggy,
you wrote 4MG on containers used for fig cultivation from cuttings.What you mean by 4MG?
explain plz
Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the question. 4MG is just a short way for me to write "4 Mile Green", which is what I call this variety. It is an unknown variety found growing in a local community garden known as 4 Mile Run Gardens. It is an excellent Adriatic type green fig that ripens a little later than my JH Adriatic and Battaglia Green figs, but has a similar taste. It has also proven very hardy with no signs of winter die back even when other local figs growing out in the open have at least some die back at the tips. There is another fig I've gotten from there I call 4 Mile Dark (labelled 4MD) which is a great dark fig with a really large and productive Breba fig. I haven't been able to identify that one either, so I just use these names for now.
I just started rooting my fig cuttings. I have them in a bucket with a lid and in coco coir about 2 nodes deep each cutting with a heat mat at 85 degrees temp regulated. There is condensation in it and every now and then I open it up for some air. Some of the buds are starting to green and poke out and attempt to leaf, so I was wondering if I'm doing this wrong and am accelerating leaf development rather than roots as it's humid in the bucket. I was under the impression that humidity would be good so that the cuttings wouldn't dry out. Should I cut back any leaf growth or continue doing what I'm doing?
If you are covering the bucket, you are keeping the heat in around the tops of the cuttings as well so that is pushing top growth. When using a heat mat with cuttings you want to try to keep the tops cooler so this doesn't happen. I would keep the top off the bucket and try to seal the tops of the individual cuttings if you are continuing with that method. I'm not sure about cutting back top growth at this point, since I haven't tested that and I haven't had a need with the method I use shown in this video. You may want to go to one of the fig forums like www.ourfigs.com where someone might have more experience with pushing cuttings with a heat mat.
@@GardeningwithZiggy Thank you, will do. I only put the heat mat because I read that it stimulated root growth. I'll keep the heat mat going with the lid off. Hopefully this slows the cuttings down a bit as most of the buds have already began to break. No leaves yet, but the buds have erupted and are green. I'll have to purchase some parafilm.
@@GardeningwithZiggyпривет, я растапливаю воск в горячей воде и обмакиваю верхушки черенков в эту смесь. Может вам понадобится этот совет
What is the medium?
I use ProMix BX for most of my rooting and general container growing use. If I was just buying it to root cuttings I'd probably use ProMix HP, which has more perlite for increased drainage, but I find the BX works just fine for me.
What part of North America are you in. If you mentioned and I missed it, accept my apology.
I'm in Virginia.
@@GardeningwithZiggy I'm in Toronto and currently trying to propagate eight cuttings. Thanks for the info.
What potting mix are you using?
I use ProMix BX, which is a peat based mix with a good amount of perlite and some vermiculite, but no added fertilizer. You can add more perlite if you want increased drainage or use ProMix HP which is basically a faster draining version of the BX. These are good at providing an even moisture without promoting rot and they also come with Mycorrhizae (good fungus for symbiotic relationship with roots) as well as a biofungacide that helps reduce other molds or rots that can attack the cutting before it takes. This is the same thing I use as the base for my potted figs, but I add some pine fines for those since they'll be a few years between repotting so it is good to have the fines to keep the mix a little looser and faster draining. They seem expensive at first, but come in compressed bales that are as much material as the 8-10 of those loose bags of potting soil you get at Lowes, etc. so actually a good deal for the amount of material you get and the quality.
Here's one place to get the ProMix BX: www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/gardening/peat-moss/7008399
@@GardeningwithZiggy I’ve never seen that before in ahh of our stores around here. That’s interesting
@@rhw7879 It is actually what many nurseries use for seed starting, potting up, etc. So like a lot of things not available in the big box stores, well worth tracking down.
@@GardeningwithZiggy storage is my issue. I don’t have anyplace to store it and also living in a picky HOA doesn’t help matters!
@@GardeningwithZiggy ok I went ordered some from Ace hardware. So moving forward, should I just use that and nothing else???
Updates?
Yes, I will do an update video soon. So far the majority seem to be doing well.
Could you dip the tops in Wax?
Sure. That would work just fine. The main thing is to avoid the cutting losing mosture through the cut off end at the top. Just be careful to use grafting wax or another low melting point wax like beeswax so it isn't hot enough to damage the bark or any buds it covers.