Thank you so much. I've been having problems with my gears and just couldn't get them to work properly but the b-screw adjustment was the problem. Way too loose so now everything works perfectly :D Happy happy joy joy :D Cheers! :D :D :D
I have a brand new bike fitted with Deore XT M8100 Derailleur 12 speed. Under high load it appears to jump a few teeth. what would you suggest needs adjusting?
When it jumps, is the chain staying on one gear only and giving the feeling of the chain lifting up and off the gearing skipping a few teeth? If so a worn or older chain (would not mesh well with a new cassette). If the chain wants to go between two gears and does not stay still it could be a barrel adjustment.
Well, I am a beginner so I am not sure, but having the same issue of jumping under load, it seems to me that happens when I shift gear slowly, and it won't happen when I pull and release the shifter's lever very quickly.
This subject isn't covered much by other people so well done. What happens if you keep it too tight for a long period of time? Could it wreck parts? I think that I have put premature weare on my bike having it too tight? P.s: I think changing the main name to shimano B skrew adjustment would bring in more views. The Derailleur type should be in the subscription.
Not that I have noticed, if it is putting premature wear on anything it is minor and has not been very noticeable to me. Technically is it putting tension on the pivot spring, but that is one tough spring in my opinion. Thanks
A quarter or half turn clockwise isn't too harmful but turning it that direction more than that grinds the screw into the derailleur's b-screw tab. You can break or strip the screw not to mention creating a rough spot for the screw tip to rest. Pull the RD back a bit as you turn the screw to CW to prevent this.
Thanks, this is a really clear video! I also have that Grrrr sound, but only when riding in the highest hear (smallest cog in the back). Would this also be a B Screw issue?
I have been working on a bicycle with a 1X11 setup, but I cant seem to adjust the gears properly. I have a Shimano deore XT dynasys11 shifter and following rear deraliure and cog: Shimano Ultegra R8000 derailleur Medium Cage Shimano Ultegra R8000 cassette 11-30t.... are those not compatible with dynasys 11 XT shitfer ?? My local repair man couldnt adjust my gears also, but told me I had a 9 speed shifter, which I dont believe I do. .
Nive video. What size is your Cassette? it's look bigger than the 11-42T. I currently have a 11-42T and like to upgrade to the CS-M5100-11 Cassette or the SunRace MX80 11-50T. any suggestion what I need or no do? thanks
My crankset is a 12s 1by m8100 but my rear derailleur is an m8000. Im currently experiencing shifting issues. Just want to check if thats the cause of the issue
Great video and very informative and clear. However I have a problem. On my my 25+ year old bike with shimano gears I have noticed that the plastic pulley is way too close to the rear cogs and is rubbing and making horrible noises all the time. I tried doing all sorts of things to the chain e.t.c to help it but all to no avail. Then I saw your wonderful video and I thought great, that's the answer, however when I looked I found that I couldn't find a B screw adjustment anywhere. I have looked high and low but just cannot see any sight or trace of it. Could it possibly have fallen off as the bike is so old or again because of its age could it be that it doesn't have one? Is this true, that some old bikes may not yet have incorporated the B screw in their design? If it is then I am completely stumped as to know what to do next. It is such a pity as I love my old bike and have pretty much fixed everything else.
Hi, I think there should be something there, take a look at the area where the derailleur is attached to the frame, this is the hanger area. The derailleur has a spring that forces it to rest on the derailleur hanger, it looks like a very small ledge that the b screw would be resting on. Check that area, there should be a hole or screw there. I would need a picture of your der- or a make and model of it, that might help me. It sounds as if this would remedy your problem. Let me know.
so that other noise it's making is normal? My bike sounds like that but I thought it was because of a problem with the derailleur cage being a little bent or the jockey wheels being worn
My Shimano STX Derailleur (11-28 casette and 24 chainring) is still hitting the casette with the screw all the way in. I already checked for bent cage and hanger, but it looks straight. My chain is the right length too and the derailleur is original to the bike. Any ideas?
The stx could be old enough it will not respond any more. Or maybe the 24t chainring and 28t combo are way to small to allow the chain to register with tension.
Isn't that indentation the marker for the teeth on the largest gear? I saw it on a XTR with a white line, but I think the XT and lower have a notch like a timing mark.
@@BikeTeacher There is a tiny notch on the back edge of the derailleur that doesnt look like it serves a purpose, but appears to line up in the same fashion as the line on the XTR. Perhaps its something else.
Is the pulley rub worse when the clutch is engaged? Mine doesn't rub when the clutch is set to Off but when set to On it won't shift down to the larger cassette ring..
On, it will produce more tension on the chain. Especially in the bigger taller gears. Shimano’s clutch is adjustable. I need to do a video on this. I notice when it’s new it’s works great, over time it gets tough. Maybe lube and or adjustments are needed.
Can this be adjusted down enough to work with an 11/34 or 11/36 cassette? I know the official smallest low gear is 40T, but people get away with all sorts of rigs...
I just converted my 3x9 to Shimano Deore XT 8000 1x11 with the 46T cassette and race face NW 34 T chainring. when I set the b screw so that it upshifts properly on the two largest cogs (37T and 46T) without rubbing/crunch sound, everything shifts smoothly except when downshifting from 37T to 32T, it won't downshift or will take a lot of time. if I release the b screw, it downshifts properly but then I have the rubbing during upshifts. I bought a new derailleur hanger because it was slightly bent and I had trued it with a wrench, but problem remains. my cable housing is full from shifter to derailleur. I don't know what to do except let the chain rub. I have tried releasing the tension too but then it messes up all the upshifts. the problem is slightly worse with the clutch on...I adjusted it because it was a bit hard. Any idea ?
@@BikeTeacher thanks for your quick answer. I wrapped the chain around largest. cog and added two pair of links but my bike has 160 mm of rear travel and I didnt load the suspension so I don't think it is a lot. I thought that going fast downhill in longer gear is when I could possibly bottom out the suspension, going uphill in granny gear is so slow I don't think there's a risk of damaging the chain due to suspension travel. by the way in the end I only removed one pair of links from the 116 links, I thought it was a good compromise between chain length and keeping some links in cas of emergency on the trail
@@BikeTeacher it almost looks like the 46T to 37T jump is too large and when the b screw is tuned for the largest cog, the derailleur is too far from the 37T and 32T cogs and hasn't enough leverage to downshift Unfortunately there is no way for me to try another cog size since 32T-37T-46T is one block
@@BikeTeacher I was also wondering it could be because of the chain line ? my crank is a 3 chainring race face, I put the 1x chainring in the middle without spacer, and when checking the chain line visually it seems to be well aligned with the center 6th speed cog, with 5 cogs on each side
I have an issue I can't figure out...X01 Eagle....shifting is good top and bottom but the middle gear jumps every time to the next gear down. I've adjusted the barrel up and down to no avail...Any suggestions? I'm hesitant to touch the limit screws.
Hi Geoff, No need to touch the limit screws, the chain is not falling into the spokes or into the frame. If the chain jumps down that would call for more tension on the cable. Unloosening the barrel adjuster would do this, 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, checking progress in between. If all this does is continually move the problem to another area and your flip flopping the problem we need to look at other possibilities. Use the barrel adjuster first, if no luck, then take a look at the derailleur hanger alignment. Downshift the rear der to the hardest last gear, stand behind the bike, get in the eye line of the upper pulley wheel it should be in alignment with the last smallest gear just using your eyeball. If it looks noticeably off, the hanger needs to be straightened with an alignment tool or by an experienced hand. A tool is best. Also, shift front der if applicable into the easiest smallest gear in the front. Here you can check for proper chain tension. There should be no sag, and looking at a straight taut chain line. Let me know how it goes. Arthur
Art, thanks for the reply. No alignment issues with the hanger. I just got it back from my LBS and they say there are no issues. However, on the trail the problem persists. I've tried the adjustments on the barrel and tweaked them as much as can possibly be tweaked both on and off the bike. I've got it down to about 1/8 turn which seems to have improved the situation but the problem is still there. The problem started right after I had the LBS install a new rear Hub upgrade. The bike is about 1 month old. I didn't have the issue until the Hub Upgrade. All other gears are flawless.
+Geoff G Hmm... inspect the chain for flaws, bends, gouging in the metal things like that, hick ups or stiff links. The cassette could be suspect as well. Sounds like on particular gear, inspect the teeth on the gear it gets kicked off of it could be a manufacturer problem. This is strange, so the whole system needs to be looked at. If you get desperate enough you can replace the derailleur cable to ensure there are no kinks in the cable effecting shifting. See how that goes.
Your problem is to do with the b screw, make sure it’s 15 mm on the top cog to the second cog on your derailuer. Then slightly move it to 14.75 mm if it doesn’t move nicely at 15 mm it should be better. SRAM has a gap tool to do this. Made out of red plastic. Draw 2 lines 15mm apart on some thin cardboard and slide it in to get the distance right if you don’t have the tool. B screw is crucial on eagle go easy and take your time and you will master it.
We got two of these for our daughters ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L the same size for age 6 and 9. It works very well for both girls. Gears were very easy for them to learn. Changing gears up takes some hand strength and is a bit hard, but they are learning. They did not come with water bottle holders- we actually got confused and thought the Derailler Guard was the bottle holder!! Regardless of these details, the bikes are fantastic- even our six year old who only just learned to ride bikes caught on within an hour of practice and loves it. Lightweight and easy for them to handle. All the parts are in excellent condition and the bikes are easy to assemble and very well packaged. Great choice for kids!
Simple and clear instruction but way too repetitive for the first half. You kept on explaining the "brrrr" sound several times as well as describing types of allen/hex keys to use and you're preference is just verbal diaorrhea. First 4 mins can be done in
If you going to shoot and you want everybody to see what your looking at , shoot over the shoulder from behind. Pointing your finger at this and that people can't tell. Just a word of very much experience .
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks a lot, mate, watched all three videos on adjusting the screws. It worked a treat, and saved me a trip to the bike shop.
Yes!!!!
Thanks !! Best demo of what the mysterious B-Screw does
Wow a video that explains the b screw properly! Well done!
Thank You, James!
Great video and excellent explanation. Saved me a trip to the bike shop.
That’s great to hear. Thanks for the comment. ⚙️🏁
Thank you so much. I've been having problems with my gears and just couldn't get them to work properly but the b-screw adjustment was the problem. Way too loose so now everything works perfectly :D
Happy happy joy joy :D
Cheers!
:D :D :D
I’m Glad the video helped.
I keep coming back to this video. Thank you 👍
I have a brand new bike fitted with Deore XT M8100 Derailleur 12 speed. Under high load it appears to jump a few teeth. what would you suggest needs adjusting?
When it jumps, is the chain staying on one gear only and giving the feeling of the chain lifting up and off the gearing skipping a few teeth? If so a worn or older chain (would not mesh well with a new cassette). If the chain wants to go between two gears and does not stay still it could be a barrel adjustment.
@@BikeTeacher yes it stays in the same gear. The bike is brand new as are all the components.
Well, I am a beginner so I am not sure, but having the same issue of jumping under load, it seems to me that happens when I shift gear slowly, and it won't happen when I pull and release the shifter's lever very quickly.
You are a very good teacher! Thanks!!!
+Mohd Zulhazmi Thank you Moho
This subject isn't covered much by other people so well done. What happens if you keep it too tight for a long period of time? Could it wreck parts? I think that I have put premature weare on my bike having it too tight?
P.s: I think changing the main name to shimano B skrew adjustment would bring in more views. The Derailleur type should be in the subscription.
Not that I have noticed, if it is putting premature wear on anything it is minor and has not been very noticeable to me. Technically is it putting tension on the pivot spring, but that is one tough spring in my opinion. Thanks
+Vince King I will look into the title change, thanks Vince.
Exactly the info i was looking for, thanks mate for the video.
Happy to help.
its a big difference in the RD behaviour when bike is on the stand and when riding on big load
Exactly having the same issue bike shifts pretty good but in high gears it skips under load
A quarter or half turn clockwise isn't too harmful but turning it that direction more than that grinds the screw into the derailleur's b-screw tab. You can break or strip the screw not to mention creating a rough spot for the screw tip to rest. Pull the RD back a bit as you turn the screw to CW to prevent this.
Good advice.
Thanks, this is a really clear video! I also have that Grrrr sound, but only when riding in the highest hear (smallest cog in the back). Would this also be a B Screw issue?
The grrr sound is probably normal. More noticeable when I’m the repair stand due to no pedal pressure.
Great video. Just upgrade to 1x10 and that was very useful. Thanks
Great! I see it being pretty common on the clutch style derailleurs, SRAM as well.
Thanks for postinf this
Thank you; it was very helpful..
Glad it was helpful!
I have been working on a bicycle with a 1X11 setup, but I cant seem to adjust the gears properly. I have a Shimano deore XT dynasys11 shifter and following rear deraliure and cog: Shimano Ultegra R8000 derailleur Medium Cage
Shimano Ultegra R8000 cassette 11-30t.... are those not compatible with dynasys 11 XT shitfer ?? My local repair man couldnt adjust my gears also, but told me I had a 9 speed shifter, which I dont believe I do. .
Nive video. What size is your Cassette? it's look bigger than the 11-42T. I currently have a 11-42T and like to upgrade to the CS-M5100-11 Cassette or the SunRace MX80 11-50T. any suggestion what I need or no do? thanks
That one may have been a 46 tooth.
My crankset is a 12s 1by m8100 but my rear derailleur is an m8000. Im currently experiencing shifting issues. Just want to check if thats the cause of the issue
Great video and very informative and clear. However I have a problem. On my my 25+ year old bike with shimano gears I have noticed that the plastic pulley is way too close to the rear cogs and is rubbing and making horrible noises all the time. I tried doing all sorts of things to the chain e.t.c to help it but all to no avail. Then I saw your wonderful video and I thought great, that's the answer, however when I looked I found that I couldn't find a B screw adjustment anywhere. I have looked high and low but just cannot see any sight or trace of it. Could it possibly have fallen off as the bike is so old or again because of its age could it be that it doesn't have one?
Is this true, that some old bikes may not yet have incorporated the B screw in their design? If it is then I am completely stumped as to know what to do next. It is such a pity as I love my old bike and have pretty much fixed everything else.
Hi, I think there should be something there, take a look at the area where the derailleur is attached to the frame, this is the hanger area. The derailleur has a spring that forces it to rest on the derailleur hanger, it looks like a very small ledge that the b screw would be resting on. Check that area, there should be a hole or screw there. I would need a picture of your der- or a make and model of it, that might help me. It sounds as if this would remedy your problem. Let me know.
Scrubber
so that other noise it's making is normal? My bike sounds like that but I thought it was because of a problem with the derailleur cage being a little bent or the jockey wheels being worn
I would need to hear the noise. But yes, depending where the chain is, different sounds are expected.
My Shimano STX Derailleur (11-28 casette and 24 chainring) is still hitting the casette with the screw all the way in. I already checked for bent cage and hanger, but it looks straight. My chain is the right length too and the derailleur is original to the bike. Any ideas?
The stx could be old enough it will not respond any more. Or maybe the 24t chainring and 28t combo are way to small to allow the chain to register with tension.
Nice 1 bro 🎉
Thanks⚙️⚙️
Just say Loosen. Unloosen would be the same as Tighten!
Learned something useful, thanks :)
Awesome!
My barrel adjuster when i click clock wise its almost getting loose the button and when i click other side its hard. Please help
Adjust the damnnnnn B screw ALREADY !!
Thats the feedback I have been getting with this particular video. I may revise that video and make another. I was a rookie back then.
Bike Teacher Hey my philosophy is “ All good things come to those who wait” thanks for the upload 🔥
Thanks Andrew!
Isn't that indentation the marker for the teeth on the largest gear? I saw it on a XTR with a white line, but I think the XT and lower have a notch like a timing mark.
I have not noticed, what indentation are you referring to?
@@BikeTeacher There is a tiny notch on the back edge of the derailleur that doesnt look like it serves a purpose, but appears to line up in the same fashion as the line on the XTR. Perhaps its something else.
Great video! Thanks for posting.
+56brever Thank you for the feedback!
+56brever Thank you!
great video always wonder how to adjust this "b" screw and why its there
Thanks!
Is the pulley rub worse when the clutch is engaged? Mine doesn't rub when the clutch is set to Off but when set to On it won't shift down to the larger cassette ring..
On, it will produce more tension on the chain. Especially in the bigger taller gears. Shimano’s clutch is adjustable. I need to do a video on this. I notice when it’s new it’s works great, over time it gets tough. Maybe lube and or adjustments are needed.
Can this be adjusted down enough to work with an 11/34 or 11/36 cassette? I know the official smallest low gear is 40T, but people get away with all sorts of rigs...
It’s possibly, I would try it.
I just converted my 3x9 to Shimano Deore XT 8000 1x11 with the 46T cassette and race face NW 34 T chainring. when I set the b screw so that it upshifts properly on the two largest cogs (37T and 46T) without rubbing/crunch sound, everything shifts smoothly except when downshifting from 37T to 32T, it won't downshift or will take a lot of time. if I release the b screw, it downshifts properly but then I have the rubbing during upshifts. I bought a new derailleur hanger because it was slightly bent and I had trued it with a wrench, but problem remains. my cable housing is full from shifter to derailleur. I don't know what to do except let the chain rub. I have tried releasing the tension too but then it messes up all the upshifts. the problem is slightly worse with the clutch on...I adjusted it because it was a bit hard.
Any idea ?
How’s the chain length? Chain may be too long. Although you do want two extra links. (4 pieces total).
@@BikeTeacher thanks for your quick answer. I wrapped the chain around largest. cog and added two pair of links but my bike has 160 mm of rear travel and I didnt load the suspension so I don't think it is a lot. I thought that going fast downhill in longer gear is when I could possibly bottom out the suspension, going uphill in granny gear is so slow I don't think there's a risk of damaging the chain due to suspension travel.
by the way in the end I only removed one pair of links from the 116 links, I thought it was a good compromise between chain length and keeping some links in cas of emergency on the trail
@@BikeTeacher it almost looks like the 46T to 37T jump is too large and when the b screw is tuned for the largest cog, the derailleur is too far from the 37T and 32T cogs and hasn't enough leverage to downshift
Unfortunately there is no way for me to try another cog size since 32T-37T-46T is one block
@@BikeTeacher I was also wondering it could be because of the chain line ? my crank is a 3 chainring race face, I put the 1x chainring in the middle without spacer, and when checking the chain line visually it seems to be well aligned with the center 6th speed cog, with 5 cogs on each side
interesting video good photos too
Thanks!
excellent, thank you.
+Mit Dolin Your welcome 👍🏽
I have an issue I can't figure out...X01 Eagle....shifting is good top and bottom but the middle gear jumps every time to the next gear down. I've adjusted the barrel up and down to no avail...Any suggestions? I'm hesitant to touch the limit screws.
Hi Geoff, No need to touch the limit screws, the chain is not falling into the spokes or into the frame. If the chain jumps down that would call for more tension on the cable. Unloosening the barrel adjuster would do this, 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, checking progress in between. If all this does is continually move the problem to another area and your flip flopping the problem we need to look at other possibilities. Use the barrel adjuster first, if no luck, then take a look at the derailleur hanger alignment. Downshift the rear der to the hardest last gear, stand behind the bike, get in the eye line of the upper pulley wheel it should be in alignment with the last smallest gear just using your eyeball. If it looks noticeably off, the hanger needs to be straightened with an alignment tool or by an experienced hand. A tool is best. Also, shift front der if applicable into the easiest smallest gear in the front. Here you can check for proper chain tension. There should be no sag, and looking at a straight taut chain line. Let me know how it goes. Arthur
Art, thanks for the reply. No alignment issues with the hanger. I just got it back from my LBS and they say there are no issues. However, on the trail the problem persists. I've tried the adjustments on the barrel and tweaked them as much as can possibly be tweaked both on and off the bike. I've got it down to about 1/8 turn which seems to have improved the situation but the problem is still there. The problem started right after I had the LBS install a new rear Hub upgrade. The bike is about 1 month old. I didn't have the issue until the Hub Upgrade. All other gears are flawless.
+Geoff G Hmm... inspect the chain for flaws, bends, gouging in the metal things like that, hick ups or stiff links. The cassette could be suspect as well. Sounds like on particular gear, inspect the teeth on the gear it gets kicked off of it could be a manufacturer problem. This is strange, so the whole system needs to be looked at. If you get desperate enough you can replace the derailleur cable to ensure there are no kinks in the cable effecting shifting. See how that goes.
Your problem is to do with the b screw, make sure it’s 15 mm on the top cog to the second cog on your derailuer. Then slightly move it to 14.75 mm if it doesn’t move nicely at 15 mm it should be better. SRAM has a gap tool to do this. Made out of red plastic. Draw 2 lines 15mm apart on some thin cardboard and slide it in to get the distance right if you don’t have the tool. B screw is crucial on eagle go easy and take your time and you will master it.
great stuff!!
Thanks!
Good view angle.
Thank you
first and complete film about b screw (okok)
Good video interesting
Thank you Ron!
Thanks man
No problem. 😀
We got two of these for our daughters ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L the same size for age 6 and 9. It works very well for both girls. Gears were very easy for them to learn. Changing gears up takes some hand strength and is a bit hard, but they are learning. They did not come with water bottle holders- we actually got confused and thought the Derailler Guard was the bottle holder!! Regardless of these details, the bikes are fantastic- even our six year old who only just learned to ride bikes caught on within an hour of practice and loves it. Lightweight and easy for them to handle. All the parts are in excellent condition and the bikes are easy to assemble and very well packaged. Great choice for kids!
The bike in the video?most likely.
Simple and clear instruction but way too repetitive for the first half. You kept on explaining the "brrrr" sound several times as well as describing types of allen/hex keys to use and you're preference is just verbal diaorrhea. First 4 mins can be done in
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
8 min video for 1 bolt???
thankyouuuuuuu
+Marcley Sanvictores Your welcom👍🏽💪🏽
jesus mary and joseph get to the point way too much extra talking
lol, note taken.
Just watch. Park tool tutorial
tl;dr keep ~4mm distance there. When you hear this noise, add 1-3 mm. Simple.
To much talk!!!!!!!!!!!
Just turn the screw already... geez.
I know right! Total amateur.
Get to the point so much flaffffff
fanny
Hes a pile
bikes pile
heads pile
If you going to shoot and you want everybody to see what your looking at , shoot over the shoulder from behind. Pointing your finger at this and that people can't tell. Just a word of very much experience .
Ok. Thanks
Next time don’t talk so much .
Painfully slow and repetitive to watch.