Hi Bob, just wanted to thank you for this video (well all of them really) this video was invaluable to me for my restoration and I couldn’t have got it back together without your knowledge, thanks heaps!
I just got one of these in the post today. So I was hoping you had done one up on video, to show me the way on how to restore it. Mine is missing the roof and both figures and it needs a new glass. I got it cheap so I don't mind spending the bucks on this iconic car. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.
That silver one is what I had in the 70's as a child! I remember it had rotating license plates, and was painted silver which is film accurate. Within an hour of unboxing it, the man in the ejector seat flew off never to be seen again. That was my favorite toy car because it did so many cool things. The roof eventually vanished, and the ejector seat broke away. It was a well loved and well played with toy that eventually became a broken mess. I would LOVE to have a restored one, but that style is hard to find and out of my price range.
Hello Bob.., question for you.. where can I find the 2 small bottom revits for the Aston Martin 270 and the 271model (are they the same) ? I do not see them on the main list... Or I've my overlooked...? Thanks
You just got to make them up yourself mate out of the moulded white metal rivets that you buy from the model supplier, you can file down the shafts to fit whatever diameter hole you’ve drilled into the posts and if you want to, change the look of the heads of the rivets to look like the original ones that you drilled out. Model suppliers don’t sell individual sets of rivets for different models, you have to adjust the the sizes to your own discretion 👍😉
Bob, at the 12:00 min mark, how are you getting the roof to just drop into place so easily ? I've bought a replica one off of eBay and I'm trying to fit it without disassembling the car. I thought it'd just easily clip in place, but I'm struggling to get the pegs on the roof into the holes in the frame as there's no flexibility in either. Any advice please?
@@BobWilliscorgi Ah, cheers for the swift reply Bob. I was trying to avoid having to opening it up, but looks like I'm going to need to dig out my drill.
Hi Andy the gold I used for the 261 can be found at: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Paint-Factory-SHIMMERING-GOLD-Interior-Exterior-Metallic-Spray-Paint-200ml and virtually any Silver will be ok for the 270 version
Hi Bob, excellent videos, I’m thinking about starting doing some restorations, please could you offer me some advice on where I could stop buying parts? As in rivets, and paint to suit the models
Hi Bob, hope you and the missus are keeping well, I have just watched your video for the 261 James Bond, and for the life of me I cannot work out how the spring at the end of the ejecta seat goes with the metal plate any help would be grateful before I put a hammer through the whole lot LOL
Hi Bob,what size drill bit do you use to drill the rivet out of the James Bond db5 gold version body so you can fit the new rivet in,looks rather small,thanks,
And advice on how to get my 270 roof to lie flat rather than a couple mm above the roof line? I could grind a shade of the top of the seat head rest. Just wondering what you would recommend. Thanks
Hi I know how you feel but you just have to keep fiddling with it till you can get it to the best you can, I sometimes warm the actual seat arm and bend it slightly down or warm the headrest and bend that slightly backwards, but it’s a real pain as you have to keep re-assembling it to see if it’s right! Then sometimes it when you get it level, the roof doesn’t clip the seat down properly 🙄. Good luck mate.
superglue de bonder welds the broken suspension parts together 24 hours to harden .I always cut the rim of the rivet with a stanley knife ,prise the base plate off then superglue it back after repair no drilling
Hi Bob I sometimes find that when the roof hatch is reassembled after painting that the ejector seat mechanism flicks it open too much, which then cracks the hatch against the edge of the roof line at the rear. This results in a line crack in the paint. Obviously re painting it won’t cure the underlying problem. I’ve not found a way to remedy this and it only happens seems to some cars and not others. Do you have any suggestions on how to stop the roof flying open too far or with too much force? Thanks.
It's something to do with the actual retainer clip mate , you may have a good one or a bad one ! The rear part of the roof is meant to hit the top of the clip which in turn stops it actually hitting the casting .
Thanks for very good lesson. I am nearly ready to put car back together, BUT suddenly the ejection seat hinge with the spring on seems very lose and keeps popping out - like i have lost something? it used to stay clicked in place and pivot really well without ever popping out. any suggestions greatly appreciated. thanks JC
Hi John, this is a common problem when the seat and arm needs replacing because where you slot the 2 pins of the seat arm into the rear of the interior unit of the car you'll notice there is a small post either side moulded into the plastic of the unit that looks like there's a tiny "v" cut into it, well when you're pins on your seat unit are pushed down and your spring is all fitted it's the posts that are meant to hold it down. Obviously because all these cars are very old items this plastic post gets worn over time and it's sometimes difficult to get a new seat to stay in there but what I do is hold it there and very,very carefully use the tip of a hot screwdriver and re-melt the top of the post where the "v" part is and gradually bit by bit bend it slightly over each side of your seat pins again, just enough to stop it jumping back out. I think when they first did it in the factory it wasn't meant for repairs but can be done. I've come across this a few times but I must say you have to be extremely careful not to try and melt those points too much as you can easily end up ruining the the unit completely if it's overdone!
Bob Willis Thanks a mill Bob. I did try the melted hot method before I got your reply. Not enough plastic to support that option. Found a novel solution. Drilled tiny holes on either side of the box structure just above where the seat lugs push in. Then slotted 1/2 cotter pin right through with a little bend in the middle to allow seat support to pivot. Car assembled and working fine. I use epoxy resin and very tiny strips of carbon fiber and find this brilliant to repair any models. All very micro needing tweezers etc. Cheers John
Hi john , yes that's the trouble with these parts' sometimes you can get away with the melting option but sometimes you can't! Anyway I'm glad you managed to solve it with a clever idea, it's like I always say it doesn't matter how long you have been doing this restoration lark, you learn a new trick every time. Well done mate 👍😀
You're going about this in a difficult manner Bob. The caustic soda digs too deep. May look good in the beginning but later the paint will flake off. Not trying to rain on your BBQ. It's a good one but paint remover is easier and less hazardous. Good luck and happy thanksgiving.:-)
Thanks for your concerns but been using it for years and not had any problems yet mate 👍 You obviously need to give the stripped model a good wash and rinse afterwards.
If you’re very very careful you can redesign this part by pushing a hot piece of 1 mm piano wire through from the back of the unit over the T-bar that’s attached to the ejector seat to hold it in, the melted plastic seems to wear after a lot of use and that’s why the seat doesn’t sit right. Once you’ve got a small piece holding the back T-bar of the seat down it should operate correctly! Don’t forget to cut the wire flush with the back of the seating unit once fitted 👍
Bob, do you have an eBay page or Etsy shop where you sell items? Desperate to get a #261 in nice condition. I had one as a child which I lost a long time ago. ebay ones seem over priced. If you don't, any advice?
pco46 , hi mate the shade I used is available on eBay, here’s a link’ Bob rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F371701175290
Hello Bob! I just wanted to tell you that I really enjoy your videos. You do an amazing job restoring these cars and your videos are full of useful information! I look forward to seeing more videos like this. I was wondering if you had considered selling any of the cars you've restored. I'd be very interested in a 267 Batmobile and a 270 Bond car.
Hi Bob, just wanted to thank you for this video (well all of them really) this video was invaluable to me for my restoration and I couldn’t have got it back together without your knowledge, thanks heaps!
Hi Bob, I love it when you do not destroy your video with music that covers over what you say in the video. Way to go Bob.
Just bought six. Three gold three silver all 60s glad spares available. They may look rough till you restore but it's worth it
I just got one of these in the post today. So I was hoping you had done one up on video, to show me the way on how to restore it. Mine is missing the roof and both figures and it needs a new glass. I got it cheap so I don't mind spending the bucks on this iconic car. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.
Grow up
@@cahillgreg Never! Getting older is manditory. Growing up is a choice.
Interesting, thanks for the video. Incidentally Corgi re-released the gold 261 one today on their website, purchased one earlier.
Love for you to send me the link 😉👍
That silver one is what I had in the 70's as a child! I remember it had rotating license plates, and was painted silver which is film accurate. Within an hour of unboxing it, the man in the ejector seat flew off never to be seen again. That was my favorite toy car because it did so many cool things. The roof eventually vanished, and the ejector seat broke away. It was a well loved and well played with toy that eventually became a broken mess. I would LOVE to have a restored one, but that style is hard to find and out of my price range.
dude, look on ebay , I got one for less then £14 delivered, they do come up and it is poss to find resto parts ! got back...to the 70's !!
Hi Bob, great video thanks! I’m just in the process of putting mine together. Does the driver get ‘glued’ in or not please? Thank you
Hi Colin, doesn’t really matter either way mate. Entirely up to you 👍
@@BobWilliscorgi thanks for a speedy reply, much appreciated 👍
Really enjoyed the video Bob, cheers mate.
Hi Bob, I was wondering what rivets you're using and where to get them. Good vids, cheers
Hello Bob.., question for you.. where can I find the 2 small bottom revits for the Aston Martin 270 and the 271model (are they the same) ? I do not see them on the main list... Or I've my overlooked...? Thanks
You just got to make them up yourself mate out of the moulded white metal rivets that you buy from the model supplier, you can file down the shafts to fit whatever diameter hole you’ve drilled into the posts and if you want to, change the look of the heads of the rivets to look like the original ones that you drilled out. Model suppliers don’t sell individual sets of rivets for different models, you have to adjust the the sizes to your own discretion 👍😉
thanks once again Bob much appreciated the time you put into these
Bob, at the 12:00 min mark, how are you getting the roof to just drop into place so easily ? I've bought a replica one off of eBay and I'm trying to fit it without disassembling the car. I thought it'd just easily clip in place, but I'm struggling to get the pegs on the roof into the holes in the frame as there's no flexibility in either. Any advice please?
You can't replace the roof correctly without dismantling the car I'm afraid bud.
@@BobWilliscorgi Ah, cheers for the swift reply Bob. I was trying to avoid having to opening it up, but looks like I'm going to need to dig out my drill.
@@BobWilliscorgi I made it somehow. I bought my model with detached roof and pushed it inside applying some force, it clicked and works perfectly
Hi Bob how do you put the ejector seat back in with the spring. Is there a video on how to replace the ejector seat. Thanks
Hi again Bob Even a photo of in in place would help. Its actually the Silver 270 Aston Martin.
Hi Bob just picked up three Corgi 261s from my local carboot.what gold/grey do you use when restoring ?.....love your channel!
Hi Andy the gold I used for the 261 can be found at: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Paint-Factory-SHIMMERING-GOLD-Interior-Exterior-Metallic-Spray-Paint-200ml and virtually any Silver will be ok for the 270 version
The Grey baseplate colour I just use ordinary primer then lacquer over
Hi Bob, how do you open the car up? I'm skimming through the video and I can't see how you got the rivet out in the first place? Thanks.
There's one small rivet at the rear ! You can't miss it ?
@@BobWilliscorgi Cheers Bob. How do you actually remove it though? It doesn't have a screw head or anything. Does it need drilling?
Hi Bob, excellent videos, I’m thinking about starting doing some restorations, please could you offer me some advice on where I could stop buying parts? As in rivets, and paint to suit the models
Hi Keith Pritchard , there is a link in the description for parts, thanks Bob.
Omg this brings back memories ! Thanks for posting
Hi Bob, great video!
Are you just using superglue to fit the baseplate rivet ?
Thanks
Yes mate, that’s the most common way to do it 👍
Hi Bob, hope you and the missus are keeping well, I have just watched your video for the 261
James Bond, and for the life of me I cannot work out how the spring at the end of the ejecta seat goes with the metal plate any help would be grateful before I put a hammer through the whole lot LOL
Hi buddy it's difficult to actually explain but I'm sure that I have shown it in the video , if not look at the 270 video it might be there .
Hi Bob,what size drill bit do you use to drill the rivet out of the James Bond db5 gold version body so you can fit the new rivet in,looks rather small,thanks,
1.5 - 2mm
Thanks Bob, yes been using a 1mm then a 1.5mm, the 2mm was a bid big went straight through the side of the hole,😂
The spoked wheels of the 270 are available as spare part somewhere in the net?
No
And advice on how to get my 270 roof to lie flat rather than a couple mm above the roof line? I could grind a shade of the top of the seat head rest. Just wondering what you would recommend. Thanks
Hi I know how you feel but you just have to keep fiddling with it till you can get it to the best you can, I sometimes warm the actual seat arm and bend it slightly down or warm the headrest and bend that slightly backwards, but it’s a real pain as you have to keep re-assembling it to see if it’s right! Then sometimes it when you get it level, the roof doesn’t clip the seat down properly 🙄. Good luck mate.
superglue de bonder welds the broken suspension parts together 24 hours to harden .I always cut the rim of the rivet with a stanley knife ,prise the base plate off then superglue it back after repair no drilling
Everyone has their own way to get things done 😊
hi Bob what is the Gold paint you you,s also can you not drill an tap instead of gluing in a rivet . cheers
Hi Dane, I use paint factory shimmering gold available on eBay and yes you can drill and tap it if you prefer.
@@BobWilliscorgi Thank,s Bob i have just Bought a 261 of Ebay and a set of Wheels ......
i mean Tyer,s ...
Can I ask what the gold paint is that you used the link doesn't seem to be working?
Paint factory brilliant gold
Bob have you ever done one of the slightly bigger ones released later by Corgi
Not yet
Hi Bob
I sometimes find that when the roof hatch is reassembled after painting that the ejector seat mechanism flicks it open too much, which then cracks the hatch against the edge of the roof line at the rear. This results in a line crack in the paint. Obviously re painting it won’t cure the underlying problem. I’ve not found a way to remedy this and it only happens seems to some cars and not others. Do you have any suggestions on how to stop the roof flying open too far or with too much force? Thanks.
It's something to do with the actual retainer clip mate , you may have a good one or a bad one ! The rear part of the roof is meant to hit the top of the clip which in turn stops it actually hitting the casting .
@@BobWilliscorgi Bob you’re a genius! Thanks!
Thanks for very good lesson. I am nearly ready to put car back together, BUT suddenly the ejection seat hinge with the spring on seems very lose and keeps popping out - like i have lost something? it used to stay clicked in place and pivot really well without ever popping out. any suggestions greatly appreciated. thanks JC
Hi John, this is a common problem when the seat and arm needs replacing because where you slot the 2 pins of the seat arm into the rear of the interior unit of the car you'll notice there is a small post either side moulded into the plastic of the unit that looks like there's a tiny "v" cut into it, well when you're pins on your seat unit are pushed down and your spring is all fitted it's the posts that are meant to hold it down.
Obviously because all these cars are very old items this plastic post gets worn over time and it's sometimes difficult to get a new seat to stay in there but what I do is hold it there and very,very carefully use the tip of a hot screwdriver and re-melt the top of the post where the "v" part is and gradually bit by bit bend it slightly over each side of your seat pins again, just enough to stop it jumping back out. I think when they first did it in the factory it wasn't meant for repairs but can be done. I've come across this a few times but I must say you have to be extremely careful not to try and melt those points too much as you can easily end up ruining the the unit completely if it's overdone!
Bob Willis
Thanks a mill Bob. I did try the melted hot method before I got your reply. Not enough plastic to support that option. Found a novel solution. Drilled tiny holes on either side of the box structure just above where the seat lugs push in. Then slotted 1/2 cotter pin right through with a little bend in the middle to allow seat support to pivot. Car assembled and working fine. I use epoxy resin and very tiny strips of carbon fiber and find this brilliant to repair any models. All very micro needing tweezers etc. Cheers John
Hi john , yes that's the trouble with these parts' sometimes you can get away with the melting option but sometimes you can't! Anyway I'm glad you managed to solve it with a clever idea, it's like I always say it doesn't matter how long you have been doing this restoration lark, you learn a new trick every time. Well done mate 👍😀
Very very good job I have one of these they are very hard to put right
Glyn Stimpson yeah mate, getting the seating right so the roof sits flush is the worst 🥴
You're going about this in a difficult manner Bob. The caustic soda digs too deep. May look good in the beginning but later the paint will flake off. Not trying to rain on your BBQ. It's a good one but paint remover is easier and less hazardous. Good luck and happy thanksgiving.:-)
Thanks for your concerns but been using it for years and not had any problems yet mate 👍
You obviously need to give the stripped model a good wash and rinse afterwards.
Bob, loving your videos guy. So many in my loft.. where to start ?
ickleshouse you’ll run out of my videos at this rate! 😂 lol
lol... yeah, on the upside, you can thank the weather for another sub though, and another enthusiast !.
I had trouble with the seat holding area, very some plastic burred over the arm.
If you’re very very careful you can redesign this part by pushing a hot piece of 1 mm piano wire through from the back of the unit over the T-bar that’s attached to the ejector seat to hold it in, the melted plastic seems to wear after a lot of use and that’s why the seat doesn’t sit right.
Once you’ve got a small piece holding the back T-bar of the seat down it should operate correctly! Don’t forget to cut the wire flush with the back of the seating unit once fitted 👍
Did you ever finish the silver paint on the grill.
bob fellows 👍oh yeah
How do u fix the roof when it is too in a too high position?
With a lot of fiddling around and sometimes great difficulty
Bob, do you have an eBay page or Etsy shop where you sell items? Desperate to get a #261 in nice condition. I had one as a child which I lost a long time ago. ebay ones seem over priced. If you don't, any advice?
smiffyb25 yes zider0-4
hi bob what spary colourdid you use for the Aston martin thanks
pco46 , hi mate the shade I used is available on eBay, here’s a link’ Bob
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F371701175290
What kind of glue do u use?
Super
1965 special Gold edition celebrating the release of the film Gold finger in 1964 .
Where can I get spare tyres?
Bob what spray paint did you use ?
Peter Richardson here is a link mate 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401848245896
@@BobWilliscorgi thanks Bob
What shade of paint do you use?
Paint factory brilliant gold mate 👍 available on eBay
@@BobWilliscorgi Thanks!
Hello Bob! I just wanted to tell you that I really enjoy your videos. You do an amazing job restoring these cars and your videos are full of useful information! I look forward to seeing more videos like this. I was wondering if you had considered selling any of the cars you've restored. I'd be very interested in a 267 Batmobile and a 270 Bond car.
Ramrod Hare , Thanks bud I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos, check out EBay for models Bob👍
Wont Brake fluid remove that paint too?
Maybe, never tried depends how long you want to wait
Top man !
Whats in the jar?
windshear33 just ordinary washing up liquid and water!
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe ..
Thanks my friend subscribe subscribe ...