Maximize Boondocking Power with a Renogy Dual Input DC to DC Battery Charger & LFP Battery Install
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Welcome back to another Renogy solar component installation video from Freedom in a Can! This time, we're working on our own truck / trailer rig to make a significant upgrade to our food storage system by adding a 12V ICECO fridge / freezer. After over 8.5 years on the road, we are no longer relying on a standard cooler and ice bag to keep our food fresh. The technology (and the price) finally caught up with our space and budgetary constraints.
In this video we'll cover (overall parts list below):
1. How to take advantage of both solar power as well as your vehicle's engine (via starting battery) to reduce charging times on your RV's service battery through the Renogy 30A Dual Input DC to DC Battery Charger.
2. How we use the Dual Input Charger to power a new ICECO 12V Refrigerator/Freezer located in the covered bed of our towing vehicle.
3. Our step-by-step installation of the Dual Input Charger, 50AH LiFePo Battery, RMS Monitor & VL45 ICECO Cooler on our 2015 Nissan Frontier (Crew Cab) which tows our 15-foot vintage "canned ham" Sportcraft travel trailer, which has been our full-time home since 2012.
Parts List:
1. 30A Dual Input DC to DC Battery Charger - renogy.sjv.io/qnk2Kj (or 50A Dual Input Charger for more charging power if appropriate for your battery: renogy.sjv.io/9WxJ60)
2. 50AH LiFePo Battery - renogy.sjv.io/5bm7d9
3. 8' 10 AWG Tray Cables - renogy.sjv.io/MXoDOq
4. 2 x 40A ANL Fuses with housing - renogy.sjv.io/rne2yD
5. 4 x 10AWG Battery Fuse Cables - renogy.sjv.io/a1YWzY
6. Monitoring Screen for DC to DC Charger - renogy.sjv.io/AokENj
We installed: VL45 - Single Zone Fridge Freezer
For 12% off ICECO Cooler / Freezer, use our AFFILIATE LINK (icecofreezer.com/CANLIFE) and PROMO CODE (CANLIFE) at checkout!
Brief Overview:
Powering a 12V cooler simply by plugging into your vehicle's utility port might work for a weekend getaway. If you have dreams of going "full-time," even for a few weeks, you will want a more consistent power source that won't tax your vehicle's alternator.
While hooked up to a deep cycle battery, the cooler can more reliably keep your food fresh, and your drinks cold. The Dual Input DC to DC Battery Charger is the perfect option for anyone looking to go solar as well as take advantage of the vehicle's engine. With the charger integrated into this system, it acts like a pump to electronically boost the voltage (pressure) and amperage (flow) coming from the starting battery to provide a more effective charge to the service battery, and greatly reduce charging time.
Because the Dual Input DC to DC Charger takes a solar input, it replaces the need for an additional charge controller in your solar powered system. The MPPT technology offers greater efficiency as well as reducing charging time. The 30A version can receive a maximum of a 15A charging current from the starting battery, in addition to 15A from the solar panel array. The 50A version is also available for larger set-ups. If you are trying to decide between a standard or dual input DC to DC charger, as well as how to size it appropriately for your system, the charts in this article will walk you through it: www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-d...
This is the perfect device for anyone interested in putting solar panels in your van, RV, motorhome, or trailer! Check out our product review video, taken 2 months later, of how things are working for us! • Product Reviews: ICECO...
Other parts available at any auto parts / hardware store:
1. 15A Inline Fuse (2)
2. 4AWG, 8AWG, 10AWG, 16AWG Ring Terminals and Butt Connectors
3. 16' (length is specific to your tow vehicle) 4AWG Supply Cable
4. 16' (length specific to your tow vehicle) 8AWG Ground Cable
Note: For any installation that requires a lot of turning and bending of the wire along the underside of the vehicle, we recommend using "welding wire" which is much more flexible than standard AWG, offers more strands per gauge, and minimizes voltage loss of longer runs. It's a bit more expensive per foot, but worth it in the long run.
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Disclaimer: Most of the videos we make include affiliate links and paid sponsorship, this helps keeps our information free and us on the road (10 years and counting!).
This video is intended to help users plan, organize, calculate, and install a personal DIY solar powered electrical system. We, Shari & Hutch (Freedom in a Can, LLC), are neither professional electricians nor solar installers; we are educators who have learned to install our own system and to empower others to do the same. If you have questions, reach out in the comments section and we'll get back to you.
If you need further assistance beyond our advice, consult a solar professional or certified electrician. Electricity is dangerous, so do your homework, take it one step at a time, and good luck! 
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BIG NEWS!!! Use CANLIFE promo code at Renogy checkout to save an additional 10% off most products -- even on SALE items! Use this affiliate link: renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY Promo code CANLIFE valid in the United States, Canada, Germany, Australia, and the United Kingdom!
Best 12v trucking boondocking video on RUclips!!
Well thanks!!
I love how you guys try to empower the rest of us! I thought it was going to be more complicated than that. Thank you so much! Stay awesome !
Really appreciate the comment, Maria, that's what we're hoping for!
Sweet setup. Thanks for sharing!
Great install video, well done 👍
Many thanks! Glad it helped.
Brilliant video. Thank you!
Thanks for your kind words. We just love how well this system has worked for us!
Best install video for this product, thank you... everybody else just mentions the ign wire...you showed not only how, but where to install it... thank you so much
Thanks for the kind words!
Great video ya'll
Thank you. This is the best video on youtube for this install. I have been dreading this install.
You are so welcome! It will all make sense once you get a few key things started and in place. Just be sure to ground back to the starting battery! Have fun with it!
Thank you-always wondered how to charge an rv battery bank by the vehicle’s alternator.
Your “frame ground” in the bed is not a frame ground, it’s s a body ground. Could cause issues with function/performance/safety of your set up.
Recommend: Move it to frame or add a larger ground wire from it, to to the frame.
Thank for sharing :)
P.S. Also, always clean/sand frame grounds thoroughly to bare metal to assure best contact.
Hey thanks, you are right about that. The "body ground" was not adequate. You may note that we added a ground wire all the way back to the starting battery, see 21:50 where we hook up the ground wire to the battery. We also mention this at 11:52. It's been working great since we did this! Thanks for the input.
@@FreedomInACan so the ground wire is actually not need to be ground to frame if your running it back to starting battery is that correct thought?
@@bobo8129 Yes, you got it. We tried to ground to just the frame, or in this case the body, but we needed to take the ground all the way to the starting battery. When we did that it worked without any problems.
Great instructions and explanation. We are wanting to add a battery system for a fridge also. It was really useful to see your process in detail! Thanks!
You are so welcome! And thanks for the comment. We haven't once run our battery out with this set up. The ICECO fridge is so efficient, and just sips at the battery. If you haven't already picked one out, we'd highly recommend it.
www-icecofreezer-com.myshopify.com/promo/canlife
Save 12% by using our promo code CANLIFE.
Thanks for this wonderful overview. Tbh I haven't seen one explain this nearly as well anywhere.
Thanks for the kind feedback. As educators it's our goal to make complex concepts more simple and empower people to do it themselves. But, if you ever have questions or need clarification, don't hesitate to ask.
@@FreedomInACan gifts
excellent tutorial , has really helped me understand what i need to do. super easy , thanks guys ❤
No worries! Just a helpful tip, go ahead and ground the DC to DC all the way back to the Starting Battery!
Thanks, I learned more than the last 2 days of videos. LOL
Thanks for the feedback, give us a follow and always start here first, 😂!
Just found this on my FB feed. I realized we met you folks at the wildlife preserve in Texas last Christmas week. :) Great info!
Hi Laurie, Great to hear from you! Did you guys end up doing a camper restoration project? Am I remembering this correctly? Let us know if we can provide any further info for y'all. Cheers and Happy Holidays!
@@FreedomInACan you are! we got stalled out a bit as my guy has been traveling! But we still working at it. ;)
Thank you!
You're welcome!
This is the only place I've found clear explanation of the IGN signal wire's intended installation point. Thank you.
Glad to help! Thank you for the kind feedback. We figure that if it's confusing to us, it's probably confusing to others, so we try to spend time explaining some of those small details that can trip up DIYers.
Isnt it just 12v when car is running
Nope, usually the alternator charges the starting battery at around 13.6V, and the DC to DC takes that and pumps it up to 14.6V (@30A) to appropriately charge the LFP battery which runs the fridge. In this dual input model there is a 50A version as well. Lemme get you an article that explains all of this.
Since this video, we've installed a switch on this output so that we can charge our trailer batteries while driving. We get an average of around 20-28A of charging current back to our trailer LFP batteries. It's been a game changer when we're moving and the weather is cloudy, cold and rainy.
"Got an Engine? Get a DC to DC Charger." renogy.sjv.io/P0YQnR
"How To Choose & Size a DC to DC Charger"
renogy.sjv.io/MXokzo
Good video!
Thanks so much!
I saw this installation is simple and this one is the one I am going to install for me. Only need one dc-dc in put, PV input for the battery.
Great, be sure to use our affiliate link and promo code CANLIFE in the video description to save some money! Holler back with questions.
Thank you for sharing this video with us...❤❤❤Ambulance build here 🚑
Suwheet! You are so welcome, and thanks for the shout out! If you aren't that far into it, give the REGO system a look. We're putting one into a smaller RV travel trailer right now, and it's pretty burley. renogy.sjv.io/ORP3EZ I think it might be ideal for a larger van / small bus and it includes all three ways to charge, solar, engine and shore power. Good luck with your build! Send us a photo!
thank you for sharing, this is the best video explaining how to install the DC Charger I have seen. We have the 50amp Renogy DC to DC Charger with MPPT solar controller we have been trying to install but cant get the solar light to come on. We will now go through and check our installation and hopefully get it working. cheers
Thanks for the comment! Make sure you have it grounded properly, we had some trouble with the engine charge at first. Let us know if you have any questions.
Really excited to find this. I have the same fridge model and am ready to start getting off grid instead of RV/State parks. Got all the kit ordered just now. Fun weekend project.
I had ordered the single input charger after seeing Hutch's other video, but I think the dual input is the better option since I have panels already.
Thanks!
Yes, we think it's a better option as well! I mean why not get two for one? One thing you might want to consider with this is a cut off switch for the solar input when driving in rain or clouds, this way you'll get the full amps from the engine/alternator/starting battery input. We have a friend who did this and has been really happy with it. Good luck and hope this only takes you a weekend!
@@FreedomInACan Good point about the cutoff switch. I did see that in another person's video, come to think of it for exactly that reason.
@@gr0uch02a just out of curiosity, did you happen to order through Renogy using our link and promo code? We've been having some issues lately and wanted to make sure everything was working correctly. Thank you very much.
@@FreedomInACan I honestly don't remember, but my guess is that I did not use the affiliate link only because I was ordering parts for a boat project at the same time.
Hej. Thanks for good info. I will do somting simulair in my camper. Best regards Stefan/ Sweden. Enjoy yours life.
It's such a great system... you'll love it!
Great job. I'm inspired to do this same thing rather than just rely solely on my solar charge controller.
Thanks for the comment! After a year and 3 months with this set up, we are still so happy with it! Driving for 20 minutes charges up our LFP battery to full capacity on most days. Definitely use our affiliate code to save some money, it is good in US, CAN, UK and Australia!
Throw the cigarette plug in the bin and go an Anderson plug it won't vibrate out while you are driving get to where you're going and find the fridge hasn't been running its a piss off.
Happy travels
You can do that too, good idea! Over the last year and a half, we've been over a lot of miles and some of the worst roads in North America, haven't had a problem, yet. But it sounds like you've got some first hand experience and I'll take you at your word, an Anderson connection would certainly be more positive. Thanks for the feedback!
thank you so much ... I need no specialist after this video
Thanks so much, so glad you learned something! Let us know if you have any questions.
@@FreedomInACan I definitely will. Thank you so much
Your right about firsthand i drive a Nissan Navara and in the back of the Ute with a canopy i had a very similar set up as yours. I was north of Carnavan and caught a heap of fish overnight spent the morning fileting and put them in the fridge drove 600klms in 40/45degs C when i got the late in the afternoon the cig plug had slipped out just enough to not contact and i had slow cooked fish in the fridge not happy😞 now have Anderson plug no problems 👍
Caernaefon? Wales? We love that area. We used to take students there for a big Cymru adventure!
Definitely one of the best solar DIY vids I've seen. Nicely done. I think 4AWG from the battery is WAY overkill for 30A over 7 or 10 ft. I would of preferred not seeing the cable joint splice half way thru the + run, however!
Thanks for the comment, yeah not psyched about that joint. We actually ended up removing that cable with the splice, and put in a full run of welding wire to ground the unit all the way back to the negative terminal on the battery. Works great!
Instead of a wire nut you could still use a butt connector. Strip a longer section of the smaller gauge wire and fold it in half enlarging the size so you don't need a stepdown butt connector.
Great idea! I'm going to hold onto that one for next time. There are always so many hacks!
Muy amables por compartir este proyecto. Me indica muy claramente, como conectar mi renogy. Espero que sigan disfrutando de la libertad de conocer la naturaleza. Solo existe un momento ideal para vivir y disfrutar, es el presente, el ahora. Dios los bendiga. En caso de descargarse su la batería del auto, pueden recargarla, usando energía solar. Eso es un 3 en 1. Muy eficiente.
Muchas gracias, amigo!
Great video ... really simplifies a complex install. One question I have is this: Is it possible to run all of the truck's onboard electronics from the "house" battery? It looks here like you are only running the fridge from batteries, correct? When the truck is not running, but you have onboard appliances (like the lights, radio) on is it drawing power from the house battery or the starter battery? I'd like to set mine up so that all of the truck's appliances run from the house battery, and the starter battery is only used for starting.
Yes, we are only running the fridge from the secondary battery, but we could run other things as well. The truck's electronics are all wired into the starting battery, because the manufacturers don't go expecting you to live in your vehicle. So, yes, when you are parked and want to run things like the lights, radio etc. you have to turn the key and give power to those electronics through the starting battery - which drains it. I wouldn't want to go messing around with trying to sort out the complex wiring between the battery and the all the electronics in a vehicle. But you can set up a secondary "house" battery, which is what most van conversions do, so that there is a house section which does not draw from the starting battery. That's where the Dual Input Charger comes in, because it acts as a battery isolator, so that the starting battery doesn't draw down from the house or vice versa unless the alternator is running. In the house battery situation, you generally have to duplicate systems like lights, vent fan, radio, which get power from the house battery. It's good to keep these two systems isolated so that you don't end up with a dead starter battery out in the middle of nowhere. Starting batteries are intended to give a large boost of current to start the engine, and then immediately recharge by the alternator. House Batteries should all be Deep Cycle batteries which are designed to be discharged and charged over many cycles. Let me know if you have more questions. All the best
Great video, very useful. I do think it would be better to use red for positive and black for negative, consistently. It may work for now, but for anyone else who tries to help in the future, decoding multi-colored wires can be confusing, at least to me.
I agree with you on that one, doing an installation with consistent color wiring does help reinforce best practices. Sadly, our supplier only had black. Thanks for the feedback!
@@FreedomInACan I just hooked up my 30A unit... So, when there is no power draw, will the controller eventually go to "sleep"? This is in my daily driver...
I have a battery disconnect on my service battery but the truck battery is always connected 🤷
I don't know that it has a sleep mode. If I understand your question correctly you want to be able to turn off the unit? What we did for those situations when we don't need to charge the batter, or the ambient temperature is less than 30 degrees, is installed a cut off switch between the starting battery and the fuse along the positive cable going back to the Dual Input 30A unit. This means that our service battery (50Ah LiFePo) is still operating the fridge but not being charged. The unit is still on. But you could install an inline switch on the signal wire going to the fuse box. Make sense?
@@FreedomInACan I was thinking something along those lines...
Thanks for the reply 👍
I would of liked to see the battery monitor display in action. Does it show amps going back to both bateries and the voltages. Thank you
It will show the amps while charging, but the fridge battery has to be full in order to solar charge the starting battery. We're doing another video soon to show how we've put a switch on this charger to charge the trailer house batteries or the fridge batteries depending on what we need. Hit the subscribe button so you don't miss it. Also, you can save 10% on Renogy gear with our affiliate link renogy.sjv.io/LPEyNY and promo code "CANLIFE" at checkout. Thanks!
Great video. But does it run with only solar input? I want to buy a renogy charger but will be disconnecting the starting battery occasionally.
Yes, it's Dual Input...either car battery or solar...and it prioritizes solar when a panel is connected. When your service battery (deep cycle) is full, it sends a charge back to the starting battery to keep it charged up! Make sense? It works amazing well!
Thanks so much for explaining this so well. Can you use the Renogy 50a dc to dc charger with the 50ah battery? I would like to allow for any upgrades to larger batteries in the future
The 50ah battery has a maximum continuous charging current of 50A, so yes, you could run that model with that battery. However, I would turn your attention to the 100ah LiFePo model that is currently on sale (until 9-16-21) for just $180 more than the 50. It's the lowest we've ever seen that sale price. It will double your capacity, now. This is the one that we have in our camper and we have been super happy with it. See our video titled "Renogy Solar Panel Review..." On our channel for our complete battery review. Good luck!
50a for hour mean what, half full after 30min, maybe 200ah battery for fridge
We run our entire home on 200ah LFP, lights, computers, ceiling fan, Starlink internet, personal electronics, etc. So far it's been more than we need. If you are running a small DC fridge like ours 200ah is probably overkill. Now, if you're running the dual zone and trying to keep a lot of frozen food then you might consider a dedicated battery bank that large.
This is actually an MPPT Controller, Takes Alternator, Solar at the same time. Then charges your house batteries. It's everything in one unit....They also make the 30 amp version...Only drawback. It can only handle 25volt solar panels up to 400 watts. But them panels are huge for an RV...
Yes to all of that. We installed the 30A and Renogy makes a 50A as well. One thing is that it splits the amperage by input, so you can only get 25A for each input, but you can install a switch on the solar input so that when you drive you can get all 50A from the starting battery, if the alternator can handle that much. Yes, currently voltage input is not compatible with 48V systems, but probably will be in the future - that's the way stuff is going.
@@FreedomInACan I don't get the need for 48 volts on an RV or 24 for that matter. As the Array will never reach 6+ panels. You can hardily get 2 250 Watt panels on an RV that are extended.
And yes an Alternator is rated at 2500 rpm. To get the rating..As the first 70-90 amps is consumed just to run the Vehicle..So 50 amps will shorten the life of any alternator. As that heat has to go somewhere..
Just things I ran across fixing these system.
To learn how to size a DC to DC charge controller, check out this blog article. www.renogy.com/blog/got-an-engine-get-a-dc-to-dc-charger/
@@FreedomInACan I'm an electrical engineer. And licensed Electrician for 40 years. As they don't teach it as Electrical Theory 400 years later for nothing..
I'm also a Automotive tech for BMW, Mercedes and Audi.. I seen what happens when Alternators are abused. It's not pretty. As these cars now have over 100 Modules in them. And they don't like low or high voltage. And when they go. It cost a fortune..
@@WizzRacing I think folks are attracted to the 48V options for their RV's mostly when they have the big ones, busses, motorhomes, 5th wheel toy haulers. If you want to see folks nerd out on this, check out the Solar Powered Boondocking group on Facebook.
If your house battery is in a camping trailer, should the Renogy DC to DC controller with MPPT be in the trailer close to the house battery instead of in the tow vehicle?
Yes, the closer you locate the Dual Input DC to DC charger to your battery bank the better. One way to carry the vehicle charge back to the trailer is through Anderson connectors, great for quick connect and disconnect! Good question!
Wonderful detail! Q, do you need to worry about the temp (as in needing a heater) of the lithium battery?
Thanks for the comment. Yes, we do need to pay attention to low temps. We have a temp monitor on the battery (non-self -heating) which shows on the display. We installed a cut off switch on the starting battery just downstream of the fuse. This allows us to turn off the charging current to the charger and the auxiliary battery when temps are below freezing. The thing is, if it's below freezing then the cooler isn't running anyway, just keeping things from freezing so we don't really need the battery. Even with the battery below freezing it will still discharge, just won't charge until the core is back up to above freezing. There are many self-heating LFP batteries available now, to solve this problem. Check them out. renogy.sjv.io/Yg7bEJ
@@FreedomInACan That makes sense and thank you for the link. I am starting my process of replacing 2 grp 31 agms in a smallish (24ft) Bigfoot class c. Lots to think about given other systems when making switch to lithium. Need to add solar also.
You will not regret the switch to LFP, such a game changer. If you need further help, let us know. This is what we do for folks. You definitely want to go the multi-source charging route, engine, solar, shore power. It all helps in different weather situations. Good luck!
Appreciate the video, I've watched it multiple times! Newbie to 12v here. Question about the Fuse tap/signal wire situation.... Does the size of the fuse I am I am tapping into matter? ie. I'm planning on tapping into the a 15amp fuse under the hood. I don't imagine a "signal wire" requires a larger fuse, but can't seem to find that info anywhere. Thanks, for the super informative video.
Thanks and welcome to 12V! 15A should be just fine. What matters the most is that you tap into a fuse for an appliance that is only on when the alternator is running. If you aren't sure, head to a local auto parts store or your mechanic, as they can help you find the correct fuse to tap in to.
@@FreedomInACan Thanks, I'm pretty certain I'm in the right circuit "only on when the alternator is running" (confirmed with a multimeter). Just wasn't sure if the actual fuse had to be of a certain size.
@@bobvall9731 I believe ours is connected to a 10A fuse, which is more than adequate. The recommended wire gauge for that signal wire is 16-18AWG, so it's not carrying a lot of amps.
@@bobvall9731 Perfect, even better!
Two questions
1-what guage is going from the truck starting battery to the anl fuse block under the hood?
2-Is that cca or ofc marine rated?
Two answers!
1. 10AWG on the ANL Fuse Cable from starting battery to ANL fuse.
2. The product description for the fuse cable, does not specifically address the type of cable, except that it is TUV tested. The Battery Tray Cable, does specifically say that it is OFC, so I will assume that the fuse cable is also OFC.
Hope that helps!
This did my ocd in how many times you connected and unconnected the wires
I know, right? As lifelong educators, we know just how important repetition is for beginners to get their heads around a new concept. Since our videos are designed for newbies, we take the time to repeat steps in order to make them as easy to follow as possible. Funny aside...one thing we didn't share is that Hutch broke his wrist in the middle of making this video. Had nothing to do with the installation itself, but it completely changed the course of our installation and filming schedule last spring.
I am using the auxiliary battery, iron phosphate 240, and the starter battery 100.
How many amps can each fuse use
The fuse size depends on which model of DC to DC charger you purchase and the maximum charging current of the auxillary/house battery you are using. Let us know which model you choose and the max charging current of your battery and we can help you match a fuse size to the components.
Great video! I didn't quite follow the fuse instructions, what is the point of that again?
Thanks for the comment. Fusing is a way to protect your system from an accidental surge. Installing a fuse between each component of your system, both in and out, helps isolate any problem with any one piece from system from causing a problem with another. So, when you put a fuse between the starting battery and the charge controller, you are protecting the wire cable from getting a greater voltage or amperage than it is rated to handle. The fuse does this by melting, and shutting off the current, before the wire or component will. The fuse is an easy part to replace and saves you from having to replace a long piece of cable or a new component. This is why I prefer fuses over breakers.
@@FreedomInACan Ohhh, okay thank you!
Does the solar light turn off when the batteries are full?
No, the indicator lights just show that there is a solar panel input. In order to view the battery charge status you really need the additional monitoring screen, this one works with the Dual Input DC to DC charger. renogy.sjv.io/c/3222611/1200820/14864?prodsku=RMS-DCDC-US&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.renogy.com%2Fmonitoring-screen-for-dc-dc-mppt-battery-charger-series%2F&intsrc=PUI2_9257
Great installation, for your 12 V fridge charger port could you have run a fuse box terminal hub to tie into aux battery?
Sure, if you are seeking to run multiple appliances off the battery, a fuse box is a great way to handle that. Our system was designed to be dedicated to our ICECO fridge. We have a fuse box in our camper which comes off the battery and fuses all of our DC 12V appliances (lights, fan, charging station, etc.) Holler if you need further assistance with how to do this. We can send you photos and/or walk you through what we have done.
Hello, have you guy had any issues with the DCDC charge controller not charging from the alternator? and if so how did you resolve it
No, we haven't had any problem with the alternator since this installation. No warning lights, no dead batteries, etc. We've even installed a switch so that we could either charge the 50Ah battery, that runs the cooler, or the 200Ah house batteries back in the trailer. No problems. We get this question frequently, but the DC to DC charger is only taking a trickle charge from the starting battery, and boosting it so that the batteries are charged efficiently while driving. Hope that helps.
Just following up. You know, we had one problem with this intermittently charging early on. We weren't getting a good negative connection to the frame of the truck, so we ended up installing more grounding wire all the way forward to starting battery and grounded it to the negative terminal. Since then, no issues whatsoever. Hope that helps.
Fantastic video !!
I would like to do the same in the back seat area of my 2002 F350 power Stroke.
I was thinking on using a 100amp hour Battle Born battery.
My question is what determines the size of the charger 30 Or 50 amp.?
Thanks for the comment! The size of your charger will be determined by the size of your solar array and battery. With just the 100 AH battery it sound like you could get away with the 30 A version. I am checking with our engineer contact just to make sure and will get back to you.
@@FreedomInACan thank you for your reply!! Will stay tuned in.
@@garyferguson1552 Hi again, Gary. Got a thorough response from the engineer at Renogy. Some additional questions that will help us determine which size is best for your needs. Is the battery you will be charging an LFP or SLA (gel/AGM)? What is the maximum continuous charging current of that battery? Those specs should be available from the manufacturer. Also, will you be using a solar charge simultaneous with an alternator charge? How many watts of solar do you have? In other words, is your solar permanently mounted and will be charging your house/service battery while you are driving down the road AND using the alternator to charge it as well. Or, is your solar panel portable (like we've shown in this video) and it will be an either/or situation? Depending on your answers, we can provide you the info you need! Looking forward to hearing back...
@@FreedomInACan hello Shari
Battle Born is a 100 amp lithium (LifePO4) battery they say the charging rate is 14.2 ~ 14.6 Bulk & Absorption and 13.6 float. I will have the same situation as you just using a portable 100 watt solar panel if needed when parked.
@@garyferguson1552 Looks like the 50A is the way for you to go. Voltage is different from amperage which is different from continuous charging current. I looked up the specs for that BB battery and it's 60A-80A of continuous charging current, depending on battery temperature. So the 50A will maximize your charging capability. Please use our affiliate link in the video description...and just discovered this product is on sale for 12% off for a short time! Holler back with further questions and best of luck.
Ya thats not a frame ground , thats the bed of your truck. It may work but I would run a jumper down to the actual frame
You are correct. Be sure to watch the rest of the video, it's in there. We grounded back to the starting battery of the truck. The system has worked flawlessly for over a year now.
Shari
I have a question does the RMS monitor give you the state of charge of your 50 amp hour lithium battery?
Yes, it gives us the charge status on both our service battery (Deep Cycle, LFP) as well as our car battery (CCA, lead acid).
@@FreedomInACan thank you for the reply!!
I have the RMS monitor and I also purchased the B-2 Bluetooth trying to decide on which one to install to the 50amp DC-DC. Thank you for all the extra time you take to make all the video's
@@garyferguson1552 Both are good options. We use the BT2 for our system in Hamlet and the RMS in the truck that runs our fridge. Separate systems. Love that we can monitor both the service and the starting battery charge status with the RMS.
nice to meet
Lenogy driving charger, mppt will be injected and installed
Is there any problem with the main battery and auxiliary battery even if the driving charger is always connected to solar power
There shouldn't be any problems between the two batteries, whether you always have the solar connected or not connected. The dual Input can handle both the starting battery input and the solar panel input. When the auxiliary battery is full and charging on solar it trickle charges the starting battery. Hope this helps.
@@FreedomInACan I have one question
Will it be a problem if I don't put a fuse block on the starter battery and the auxiliary battery
@@user-ob2hd7in5i You definitely need an ANL fuse between the starting battery and the charger and another between the charger and the auxillary battery. They are inexpensive and will work to protect the components in case something happens.
@@FreedomInACan thank you
Hope you have a good car life
so good~
Dc to dc charger is the new thing, first question should be what is my alternator condition and Data is it a 65 amp or a 200 amp like police car then how old is it then battery information CCA information
Can tell me what alternator you have please
We have a 2015 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 with 4.2 engine. I believe we have what is considered a "Smart Alternator" but we only installed the ignition signal wire for this unit, and it seems to be working great. It's been awesome for 3 years of full-time living.
How many hours and temp setting does that cooler run on small 50watt lithium ?,
In 2 years of using this set-up, we've never run out of battery juice. We typically keep our cooler at 40 degrees F, as we are vegetarians and aren't storing meat. We don't know how many hours specifically, but we can give you some scenarios. If we are parked for 4-5 days (not running the truck's engine) and it's hot (above 80 degrees F outside), we've noticed that our 50Ah LFP battery will start to run low as the compressor on the cooler is running more often. If this happens and the sun is shining, we connect our portable panel into the system and can recharge the battery in a few hours of full sun. But, if we drive for 20 minutes (say to the grocery store or go hiking or kayaking somewhere), the DC to DC charger tops off the LFP battery. We use the RMS monitor to check the battery level. We were a little OCD about it at first, but now 2 years in, we've practically forgotten about it because...well, the darn thing just works! It has been a complete game changer. Does this help answer what you need to know?
@@FreedomInACan Thanks for the info. Our RV Dometic cooler runs about two days with 200amp Renogy but we set temps at 32f and 35f dual. Question, your lead acid vehicle; does the Dc-DC manager charge the lead acid on same profile (Lithium) as the cooler ?
@@VideoByPatrick Yes, with the portable solar panel attached, it sends a trickle charge back to the starting battery to keep it topped off when our 50Ah LFP (cooler battery) is full. That's actually what it is designed to do. We bought the ICECO cooler because we knew if would just sip at the energy, and have been very pleased with the results. Is your 200Ah Renogy battery LFP, AGM, or Gel? The battery chemistry will make a huge difference in how many hours of run time you'll get. Are you running anything else off that battery at the same time as the Dometic cooler?
@@FreedomInACan My Renogy is Lithium LifePo4. Not thrilled with their customer support though, I may go with Ampere for their 300amp battery,
@@FreedomInACan My rv starting battery is AGM twins 12v. Not sure they would like Lithium profile charging.
Do you have a link for the d+ cable?
No, I think a good chunk of cable comes with the dual input. If not, just use 18AWG which is available at any auto / hardware store.
@@FreedomInACan thanks! I realized after that it's not the same as a "normal" amperage cable. I fried my own brain overthinking it and didn't see that it's a much simpler "math" as it's for the ignition and I was thinking "well my charger has 60amps so I can't do 16-18 as most suggest" lol overthinking! But thanks! Appreciate your answer and everything you guys do!
Did you get the insulated cover ? I did (-:
We did not due to our set-up with tinted windows on our truck bed cover, it stays pretty cool inside. We are amazed at how little the compressor needs to run, even in hot temps, to keep everything cool. Most efficient cooler we've ever owned...2+ years running fulltime!
I've had mine fore two months.
How long does the fridge last on the 50ah battery
Much of it depends on how much the compressor has to run, which is dependent on the ambient temperature. But what we've found is that if we are parked (without running the truck at all) and it's in the 80's (F), it'll last 3-4 days. In these situations we just pop our 100W solar suitcase onto the charger. Or, if we drive the truck for about 15 mins each day, the battery stays completely topped off. If it's in the spring and fall with temps below 50-60 (F), it seems to last forever. If it's winter , it doesn't need to run at all and keeps food from freezing. Hope this helps!
@@FreedomInACan awesome that is amazing thank you
@@Bifrost_jt Sure, happy to help! BTW, if you want to save some $$$ on either Renogy or ICECO gear, be sure to use the links and promo codes found in the video description. It'll save you a bundle! Let us know if you have further questions.
Thank You very for this video. The only thing I did not get is the fuse tap. because you have a variable voltage alternator? how do you know you do? that would be a smart alternator? and the choice of the fuse and where the wire you ran goes to. I did not get this part. if you could explain ;-0)
Thanks, glad it helped! Yes, a smart alternator is a variable voltage alternator. We just looked up the make and model of our truck and figured it out. You could also call contact your mechanic. For the fuse, you need to choose an appliance that turns off when the car engine is off so that it won't drain your starting battery. Every car is different, of course. Ask an auto parts store for help on that one if you aren't sure. They'll often come out and look at your fuses and then you can buy the right sized fuse tap from them. Hope that helps! Holler back with further questions. Be sure to use our affiliate links in the video description and promo code CANLIFE to save $$$ if you purchase from Renogy and/or ICECO. Best of luck!
@@FreedomInACan @Freedom in a Can Thank You for your reply and Promo code!1 I am looking for a good 12V freezer. Can't remember if ICECO has one for now.
What I don't get is the relationship between the fuse Tap and your smart Alternator and the wire you ran to the ignition signal wire on the Renogy. Wouldn't you have to run this wire and tap in even if your alternator is" non-intelligent? What special treatment does a smart Alternator has compared to a standard Alternator. Great Job on your system, I am curious to see how many months/years the double-sided tape would hold. Thank you for your work :-0)
@@projet2907 Three good questions here. 1. Our ICECO fridge / freezer can be either -- the colder you set it, the more energy it needs though. They also have a dual zone model so you can have both a fridge and freezer. Use our link in the video description and get 12% off.
2. In looking at the manual for the Dual Input Charger, it says to only connect the Ignition Signal Wire (IGN+) to the fuse box if you have a variable voltage alternator (smart). If you have a standard alternator, which puts out a constant voltage, you don't need to connect the IGN+, page 7-8 www.renogy.com/content/RBC3050D1S-G1/RBC3050D1S-Manual.pdf
3. The double sided tape is holding really well after nearly a year and 12K miles of all kinds of roads. Just installed a cut-off switch near the starting battery so that we can turn off the engine charge when the battery is below 32 degrees F - LiFePo batteries won't charge below that temp unless they have the self-heating function -- ours do not (the battery will still discharge to -4F). The tape on the fuse and all other components are still looking great and holding! Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.
@@FreedomInACan Thank you for all the work you put into answering my questions.
I appreciate very. The double sided tape you are using would be the Gorilla 1 inch 60 lbs? I have 2 lithium batteries I installed outside my trailer in it’s box. I bought two heating pads from Offgrid power pack. Hopefully it will do the job if I get caught in very cold weather up in Canada I wish I could find a Dc to Dc charger that would work in cold weather too. I could install it in the back of the truck instead of in the trailer. For the Iceco, I really need the whole unit to be a freezer, I will look up your link thank you. Yes, maybe it’s too Mach draw. We’ll see. Again, thank you for your videos and help!
@@projet2907 Sure, no problem. The DC to DC can be used in cold weather, it's just that LFP batteries won't charge under 32 degrees. The ICECO can be a full freezer or full refrigerator -- just depends on how you set the temperature. They also have dual zone options that you can set differently.
I know you have a ground with a bolt to tub body but really the wire terminal should be hard up against the metal not against the plastic tub liner.
Would be better soldering instead of spade connectors..
If you have a solar trip switch to isolate when driving you can get 50amps from alternator ,just be aware of cable distance good to run 4B&S cable.
Settings on the renogy app can change acceptable voltage charge in the settings..
Thanks for the comment, this is good feedback. We actually had problems with this set up until we actually ran a 6AWG ground wire all the way back to the neg terminal on the battery. So, the truck bed body ground wasn't really a very good ground, as you've suggested.
We have the 30A version of the Dual Input, and we don't keep the solar panel plugged in so we're getting 20+ while driving. Curious what the isolator switch would do when we don't have solar connected to the Dual Input except on rare occasions, and never when driving?
Last year, we actually installed a dual battery switch so that we can send back more charging amps to the trailer battery (via Anderson connectors). We mostly need extra charging during the fall, winter and spring, when sun angle is low, days are shorter and cloudy. It's also when temperatures a colder, so the fridge is working way less, and the fridge battery doesn't need charging. Exactly when the house battery might need an extra boost. The switch allows us to control where we put that engine charge. It works like a charm - making a video on that soon.
@@FreedomInACan yeah I'm at the stage of deciding if I need to run a bigger alternator as mine is only 90amp. I will be running a renogy 50amp dcdc to my camper trailer which has 2x120a lithium and another renogy 50a dcdc to my ute ALU canopy which will run 2x 170a lithiums both running 2B&S cabling so I don't think the alternator would cope..
Just lookup 12v trip switches just like a house trip switch and use that as your on/off switch for the solar..
Check ISC open circuit voltage of you panels add those together and then multiply by 1.56 gets you to what your fuse /trip switch should be.. EG.2 PANELS AT ISC 5 AMP
IS 10AMPS.. multiply by 1.56. = 15.56. so you will need 16amp trip/fuse..
@@gavinfisher8049 good stuff! Thanks for the input.
Can not run Solar Panels in series since the Charger only accept up to 25V input from solar. This is a drawback:-(
Yes, I can see why this is a downside. With the effort the Renogy team is putting into 48V tech these days, I don't think it will be long before there's a new Dual Input charger that could handle more voltage and increase panel set up options.
7:37 oh boy, this is getting sketchy quick. No wire loom or anything, just raw dogging the main wire up against the frame rail
We actually went back and replaced this wire with 6AWG multi stranded welding wire, seemed to handle the bends better. Thanks for the tip!
Ad second charger if need more solar
So when you have a solar panel connected to this 30A DC to DC Charger, it divides the two charging sources at 15A a piece. If you need more solar, you can get the 50A version, which gives up to 25A of a solar charge. Let us know if you have any questions.
My apologies miss spelt Carnarvon Western Australia 🙂If it got to 40/45C in Wales they would all drop dead😃
Hahaha, I thought I misread that temp. Yes, they would all melt into the Welsh sea! But then again, so would I. 😂
If you are trying to decide between a standard or dual input DC to DC charger, as well as how to size it appropriately for your system, this article will walk you through it: www.renogy.com/blog/so-many-dc-to-dc-charger-options-so-little-timewhich-one-is-best-for-your-system/
Thanks so much for the awesomely detailed, and non-intimidating installation Vid. Looking to do a combo of what you have setup in this video, and your trailer setup. We just bought a RENOGY 100ah Lithium Ion Phosphate Battery, self-heating cause we’re up in Cold Canada, and the 50Amp Dc to Dc charger with MPPT. With this setup, can you still somehow wire in shore power to charge the house LiPo battery from an AC Extension chord from your house when the van’s off, and there’s no sun?
Thanks for the positive feedback! Great choice on the self-heating battery those are game changers! The short answer to your question, is yes! The simplest solution is an Inverter Charger. This is one example at 2000 Watts. renogy.sjv.io/Kevxjy -- (the smallest one they have is 1000W). The inverter charger would allow you to run AC appliances, and charge you batteries up while plugged into shore power.
Or you could do what we do, and use a 20A AC to DC charger which we just clip onto our battery when we've had low sunshine and have access to shore power. renogy.sjv.io/n1Zn19
Best of luck!