I have brewed 8 totes of this so far since may. I use this on all my crop ground. I used it in place of a fungicide on my soy beans this year. It has worked extremely well to control white mould. I’m going to treat manure pits this fall with it. Also putting it on corn stalks for stubble diagestion. Great product
I was applying 4-5 litres of bam with 100 grams of fulvic 70 per acre from r5 to r7. But at r1 I did a pass of bam and a carbon source with boron and r3 a pass of bam carbon source boron manganese sulphate and foliar of P and K as well. It takes a lot of time but I was finding fungicide treatments didn’t work and bam is so cheap to make
Graeme, what are your opinions on what's the difference on use and functions between anaerobe and aerobe? It seems to me that if you're targeting degradation of superficial organic matter you should aim for aerobe, and if you want to occupy soil for roots interaction, nutrient cycling etc you should go for anaerobe, but you should apply it with more water for them to percolate and reach this facultative anaerobe zone. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it...
Thanks for the question @rocpbar! This can certainly be a confusing topic; it gets quite complicated in practice, but as a general rule, true anaerobes are generally involved in the decomposition process, and counter-intuitively, it's aerobes who are most important for occupying soil for root interactions and nutrient cycling. This is why maintaining adequate porosity and airflow in your soil is so important; as soon as the soil goes anaerobic, you will begin to have issues with nutrient cycling and plant disease. A facultative anaerobe is capable of living in aerobic and anaerobic environments. Although it is easier to brew them in anaerobic environments, we generally also want them working in aerobic environments. That said, poor aeration is a reality in many soils, as such facultative anaerobes are valuable tools for increasing the biodiversity of beneficial species in these zones. Here are some articles that touch on the topic if you are interested in learning more, Managing the Microbe Workforce - Understanding The Key Players blog.nutri-tech.com.au/managing-the-microbe-workforce-understanding-the-key-players-1/ Soil Therapy™ Guidelines - Understanding your Soil Report blog.nutri-tech.com.au/soil-therapy-guidelines-understanding-your-soil-report-3/ I hope that helps!
I've had a few attempts at this, well sealed clear drum, i can get PH down to around 3.5 but it wont bubble in the airlock. Not sure if its temperature here around 18c atm or molasses that has a sulphur content of % .06.
That is interesting @andrewsmith1461, if the pH is reducing to 3.5 it would suggest that fermentation is occurring. It's hard to say specifically without understanding the full context, but I would be checking your airlock. A simple test is to manually compress the drum, it shouldn't take much effort to observe air bubbles in the airlock. If not, I suspect your drum isn't sealing properly.
@@andrewsmith1461 I’ve had same thing happen before too. What I’m doing now is adding some fulvic acid as well. For what ever reason it seems to help. Are you brewing inside a building or outside in sunlight. I’m told the sunlight can help with bubbling
Awesome! We are always interested to hear how these experiments go, so please let us know. You can find the rates on the product page here, nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam If you have a persistent issue with e. Coli I would suggest investigating what is going on upstream, there is likely a significant nutrient source. It might be worthwhile to create a silt trap and reed bed pre-treatment system to make better use of the nutrients.
I'm about to brew this in a certified organic context in New Zealand, so I'm wondering what to use instead of Seachange KFF. I can access your Fulvic Acid powder and Tri-Kelp as certified organic ingredients and an organic fish fertiliser from a different source, but it also contains various microbes. Would you recommend adding a blend of these products (if so, what rate) or is it better to go with just BAM, molasses and water? Thanks very much!
Thanks for the question @tobiaseuerl6117! Seachange KFF is ACO-certified, so it should be relatively easy to get it approved in NZ. If you were doing a 1000L brew, you would only need approximately 2.5g each of Fulvic and Tri-Kelp. Without an analysis of the fish fertiliser, it's hard to say, but if you used our Liquid Fish product, it would be around 1.2 litres. Similarly, it's hard to know without knowing the species of microbes, but most of the BAM species are quite hardy; they will out-compete most other microbes under these conditions. Increasing the diversity of nutrients available will benefit diversity, but many people still get decent results just using BAM, molasses, and water.
Yes, the vessel needs to be clear if you want healthy levels of the purple non-sulphur bacteria. Most of the other species will be quite happy in a blue drum as long as it is well sealed.
Great question @ryansevern8828! In this instance, it is bore water that we have tested. Chlorine is certainly an issue, though it can be quite easily dealt with. Leaving it in an open vessel in the sun for 24 hours should be sufficient to degrade it; aeration speeds up this process. Depending on quality, both dam and bore water can also be a potential source of pathogens, so generally it is recommended to sterilise it prior to brewing.
Yes, 100L of the BAM product we sell for 1000L brew. Otherwise could use 20L for a 200L brew and then use 100 L of that for a 1000L secondary brew. You can multiply it out further, but as highlighted in the video there will likely be impacts on diversity and potentially pathogens if the conditions aren't ideal. nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam
It depends on the application. If the brew is well managed you should produce a product almost identical to the mother culture, so the rates are the same. The usage rates and Product information sheet are listed on the product page here... nutri-tech.com.au/collections/microbes/products/nutri-life-bam
This is the BAM mother culture that we sell... nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam You could also use EM, but as highlighted in the video, BAM has some extra species that can be very beneficial.
Yes, Black Strap Molasses is certainly what we are after, as it has the highest nutrient content. As you mentioned it does come in both sulphured and un-sulphured forms. Un-sulphured is ideally what should be used, as it is far friendlier to microbes. Though with the high inoculant rates used you can still produce a reasonably healthy brew using sulphured molasses, it will just have slightly less diversity with the more sensitive microbes likely being impacted.
I have brewed 8 totes of this so far since may. I use this on all my crop ground. I used it in place of a fungicide on my soy beans this year. It has worked extremely well to control white mould. I’m going to treat manure pits this fall with it. Also putting it on corn stalks for stubble diagestion. Great product
What rates and timing are you using?
I was applying 4-5 litres of bam with 100 grams of fulvic 70 per acre from r5 to r7. But at r1 I did a pass of bam and a carbon source with boron and r3 a pass of bam carbon source boron manganese sulphate and foliar of
P and K as well. It takes a lot of time but I was finding fungicide treatments didn’t work and bam is so cheap to make
Excellent product. I inoculate the vegetable scraps before they go into the worm farm.
Graeme, what are your opinions on what's the difference on use and functions between anaerobe and aerobe? It seems to me that if you're targeting degradation of superficial organic matter you should aim for aerobe, and if you want to occupy soil for roots interaction, nutrient cycling etc you should go for anaerobe, but you should apply it with more water for them to percolate and reach this facultative anaerobe zone. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it...
Thanks for the question @rocpbar!
This can certainly be a confusing topic; it gets quite complicated in practice, but as a general rule, true anaerobes are generally involved in the decomposition process, and counter-intuitively, it's aerobes who are most important for occupying soil for root interactions and nutrient cycling. This is why maintaining adequate porosity and airflow in your soil is so important; as soon as the soil goes anaerobic, you will begin to have issues with nutrient cycling and plant disease.
A facultative anaerobe is capable of living in aerobic and anaerobic environments. Although it is easier to brew them in anaerobic environments, we generally also want them working in aerobic environments. That said, poor aeration is a reality in many soils, as such facultative anaerobes are valuable tools for increasing the biodiversity of beneficial species in these zones.
Here are some articles that touch on the topic if you are interested in learning more,
Managing the Microbe Workforce - Understanding The Key Players
blog.nutri-tech.com.au/managing-the-microbe-workforce-understanding-the-key-players-1/
Soil Therapy™ Guidelines - Understanding your Soil Report
blog.nutri-tech.com.au/soil-therapy-guidelines-understanding-your-soil-report-3/
I hope that helps!
@@NutriTechSolutionsNTS Thank you very much!!
I've had a few attempts at this, well sealed clear drum, i can get PH down to around 3.5 but it wont bubble in the airlock. Not sure if its temperature here around 18c atm or molasses that has a sulphur content of % .06.
That is interesting @andrewsmith1461, if the pH is reducing to 3.5 it would suggest that fermentation is occurring. It's hard to say specifically without understanding the full context, but I would be checking your airlock. A simple test is to manually compress the drum, it shouldn't take much effort to observe air bubbles in the airlock. If not, I suspect your drum isn't sealing properly.
@NutriTechSolutionsNTS bit of a drum shake and a few warm days and it's away bubbling like a spa bath 👌
Its probably better using blackstrap Mollases withput added sulphur i think
@@andrewsmith1461 I’ve had same thing happen before too. What I’m doing now is adding some fulvic acid as well. For what ever reason it seems to help. Are you brewing inside a building or outside in sunlight. I’m told the sunlight can help with bubbling
I’m going to brew 2 shuttles to try and treat my farm dam that has extremely high levels of e. Coli.
Hopefully will have some success
Awesome! We are always interested to hear how these experiments go, so please let us know.
You can find the rates on the product page here,
nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam
If you have a persistent issue with e. Coli I would suggest investigating what is going on upstream, there is likely a significant nutrient source. It might be worthwhile to create a silt trap and reed bed pre-treatment system to make better use of the nutrients.
I'm about to brew this in a certified organic context in New Zealand, so I'm wondering what to use instead of Seachange KFF. I can access your Fulvic Acid powder and Tri-Kelp as certified organic ingredients and an organic fish fertiliser from a different source, but it also contains various microbes. Would you recommend adding a blend of these products (if so, what rate) or is it better to go with just BAM, molasses and water? Thanks very much!
Thanks for the question @tobiaseuerl6117! Seachange KFF is ACO-certified, so it should be relatively easy to get it approved in NZ.
If you were doing a 1000L brew, you would only need approximately 2.5g each of Fulvic and Tri-Kelp. Without an analysis of the fish fertiliser, it's hard to say, but if you used our Liquid Fish product, it would be around 1.2 litres. Similarly, it's hard to know without knowing the species of microbes, but most of the BAM species are quite hardy; they will out-compete most other microbes under these conditions.
Increasing the diversity of nutrients available will benefit diversity, but many people still get decent results just using BAM, molasses, and water.
Could you use 2.5kg/1000L fulvx fulvic and humic acid instead of straight fulvic acid?
Use it on sports fields 👌🏻
Doesn’t the brewing vessel have to be clear? Or would it work in a blue plastic drum?
Yes, the vessel needs to be clear if you want healthy levels of the purple non-sulphur bacteria. Most of the other species will be quite happy in a blue drum as long as it is well sealed.
is the water you use rain/dam/bore or town water? how concerned are you about the chlorine in town waters as a anti-microbial? Thanks
Great question @ryansevern8828!
In this instance, it is bore water that we have tested. Chlorine is certainly an issue, though it can be quite easily dealt with. Leaving it in an open vessel in the sun for 24 hours should be sufficient to degrade it; aeration speeds up this process. Depending on quality, both dam and bore water can also be a potential source of pathogens, so generally it is recommended to sterilise it prior to brewing.
Would that be 100 litres of bam from the can into a shuttle ? To start the brewing process ?
Yes, 100L of the BAM product we sell for 1000L brew. Otherwise could use 20L for a 200L brew and then use 100 L of that for a 1000L secondary brew. You can multiply it out further, but as highlighted in the video there will likely be impacts on diversity and potentially pathogens if the conditions aren't ideal.
nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam
How much of the finished BAM solution do you use per hectare?
It depends on the application. If the brew is well managed you should produce a product almost identical to the mother culture, so the rates are the same. The usage rates and Product information sheet are listed on the product page here...
nutri-tech.com.au/collections/microbes/products/nutri-life-bam
what's the BAM mother culture you're using?
This is the BAM mother culture that we sell...
nutri-tech.com.au/products/nutri-life-bam
You could also use EM, but as highlighted in the video, BAM has some extra species that can be very beneficial.
Does it matter if the molasses is sulpurated or not?
Is black strap molasses the molasses that is needed.
Yes, Black Strap Molasses is certainly what we are after, as it has the highest nutrient content. As you mentioned it does come in both sulphured and un-sulphured forms. Un-sulphured is ideally what should be used, as it is far friendlier to microbes. Though with the high inoculant rates used you can still produce a reasonably healthy brew using sulphured molasses, it will just have slightly less diversity with the more sensitive microbes likely being impacted.
@@NutriTechSolutionsNTS
What is the rate per ha to apply the finished product. On say a crop of broccoli, or a crop of maize say.
@@xaviermolloy8724 yeah keen on this as well for large veggie patch
@markhiggins3054 well I do grow 40ha of broccoli and 100ha of maize and 38ha of pumpkin as well. Is that a big enough veggie patch.