H-10 REFRIGERANT LEAK DETECTOR STILL VARY GOOD FOR R1234yf adjustment heater diode using reference

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  • Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
  • TESTING YOUR TEST INSTRUMENTS WITH a calibrated reference, laboratory grade leak test
    @trutechtools.com
    8% discount code when you check out ( LECHAIR ) all capital letters all one word
    R1234yf gas source part # 703-080-G12
    R134 gas source part # 703-080-G10

Комментарии • 16

  • @minhgiang109
    @minhgiang109 11 месяцев назад +1

    Good job.

  • @nicholasceea4109
    @nicholasceea4109 9 месяцев назад +1

    Hey Tom, got a H10 Pro being delivered today from our favorite toy store. It mentions the refrigeration classes, then "including but not limited to: R-12, R-22, R-134a, R-404A, R-410A, R-502, R-507, HFO-1233zd, HFO-1234yf and HFO-1234ze".
    I was surprised to see 1234yf in the list. Does that mean it will work for yf but not as good? Have you ever found a yf leak with the H10?
    They also mention that the H10 Pro has a long probe. Not sure if one is included or it needs to be purchased separately for $60.
    BTW, I'm sooo happy to see that they are starting to stock Yellow Jacket! 👍

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  9 месяцев назад +1

      It picks up YF refrigerant perfectly no problem at all.
      I did a video on that. I purchased the refrigerant lab test reference bottles for testing sensors.
      The H 10 when you properly adjust the heated diode works every bed just as good as the thousand dollar iInfincon DeTech stratus
      I got the notification about the yellow jackets because I am signed up to their flyer notification that constantly sends me updates on new tools or any specials
      Read the instructions thoroughly don’t gas or just turn it on and try to use it
      And then instructions I’ll tell you specially a brand new sensor turn it on and let it run for 10 minutes. I think that’s what it says because the brand new sensor has to heat up and break in.
      Then I think the probe extension all it is is a little tiny, hard plastic tube that attaches to the end so you could reach back through grills to get to the coil

    • @nicholasceea4109
      @nicholasceea4109 9 месяцев назад

      @@coldfinger459sub0 I've always been one to read instructions, even on simple things that don't really need it.

  • @MrSuperchargedv8
    @MrSuperchargedv8 Год назад +2

    Funny enough I just got a used H10 Pro...I think the one I have is a rebrand I might try and pop in a new sensor also looks like it might still be original BUT it still definelty still picks up leaks.

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Год назад

      Follow the instructions how to correctly adjust the heated Diode sensor.
      When you first purchase your heated diode sensor before you insert it turn your heater pot counterclockwise all the way down .
      Now follow the directions allow it to warm up for several minutes. Make sure you have a fully charged battery. .
      It’s very common for these old lead acid batteries to go bad.
      They are easily overcharged and shorten your life if there are left plugged in the wall too long, it even states that in the directions .
      It’s a simple 12 V battery
      They’re about $20 to almost $40 on Amazon or eBay or from one of the big batteries sellers we sell all the different types of batteries .
      Make sure you purchase a New Refrigerant reference bottle it’ll cost you somewhere between $50-$80 available that True Tech Tools
      If you throw in my offer code, you get additional 8% off the price for your sensor. I’m not sure if they have the battery available they might but they probably charge more. I’m not sure. .
      LECHAIR is my discount code in their coupon. Code box at True Tech Tools all capital letters all one word get you your additional 8% off..
      Scan through and look at all the tools that True Tech Tools if you’re from the automotive industry, you’ll be amazed at what available . And what is available there you’re not gonna find on your snap on truck Mac or MATCO

    • @MrSuperchargedv8
      @MrSuperchargedv8 Год назад +1

      @@coldfinger459sub0 yeah Ive bought items from them before. Question ive been meaning to ask....do you have two completely separate setups to go between r134 and yf or do you just swap hoses and use same gauge for both.

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Год назад

      @@MrSuperchargedv8 I do both depending on what equipment I have available to me at the time because I often leave hoses and vacuum pumps and gauges at jobsites. Well I jumped the other job sites.. I have more than seven vacuum pumps three recovery machines to refrigerant leak detectors several other regular garbage leak detectors that are old they would be the same. One automotive mechanics would buy off of a snap on truck a Matco truck or Mac truck those are mostly all garbage..
      I have my main SM480V refrigerant manifold that I am attempting to wear out and break by over using it on purpose . I’m trying to prove that it’s either good or prove that it cannot stand up to being a used abused neglected, throwing around used out in the rain.. so far after several years, this is been the most indestructible, most accurate, reliable, electronic digital gauge, I have ever purchased.
      Oh, so when I use it on different refrigerant oils or different refrigerant . I have pressurized containers of 99% alcohol 140 psi of nitrogen that I just push through the yellow house and let it squirt out the red and the blue hose. This will flush out all oil out of the cage set an hoses.. and then I just hook it up to my nitrogen tank that I always have at 600 psi and let her rip. Then you throw it on the vacuum pump. It’ll get down to below 100 µm in about 30 seconds to 60 seconds.. that’s on my vacuum pump. Not off the vacuum pumps that you will buy from SnapOn or Matco or Mac.
      And then you have a perfectly clean set of gauges to use on your next vehicle .
      For the portable, refrigerant recovery basically the same thing .
      You turned them on they self evacuate but your fresh some air through them. Throw some nitrogen through them throw them on the vacuum pump and they’re ready to go for the next refrigerant or any different oil. .
      The HVAC refrigeration recovery units that I use are much stronger and durable than anything used in Automotive
      They are rated for high-pressure refrigerant like R 410
      Just standing in a bottle in your room at 70° here somewhere around 240 or 260 psi . On the high side when operating in the heat of the Summer at 110° outside your high side pressure will be about 500+ psi. They all use POL in high-voltage electric compressors just like a high-voltage electric compressor in a hybrid vehicle or electric vehicle.. so these mobile portable recovery units are built extremely durable. So using them on Automotive Refrigerant Star, low pressure, refrigerant is no strain on them at all.. using them on automotive he’s like rolling of all downhill.
      Once you have your tank of high-pressure nitrogen, it’s excellent for looking for leaks and it’s excellent for doing high-pressure decay test . You buy one extra flashgun the little silver tank that you can get from master cool or anybody even cheap Chinese eBay. And purchase am 99% plus alcohol and use your nitrogen and now you have a flashgun to clean out your hoses, engages cheap, easy and fast..

    • @MrSuperchargedv8
      @MrSuperchargedv8 Год назад +1

      @@coldfinger459sub0 that makes sense. im in the market for a new portable recovery machine any recommendation on a really good one?

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Год назад

      @@MrSuperchargedv8 the little Fieldpiece, that you see I use in my videos that is more than enough for automotive.
      Fieldpiece MR45 Digital Recovery Machine
      TruTechTools.com
      In the discount coupon box, put in the name LECHAIR all capital letters all one word you get additional 8% off the price.

  • @knk3220
    @knk3220 Год назад +1

    Maybe you can get a can of R152A duster and see if both detector reacts when you spray with that duster lol

  • @charless01
    @charless01 Год назад +1

    Hi Tom, thanks again for your good videos. In regarding to this one I would like to know: what is the technical procedure when my D-TEK Inficon is not longer sensite because of its old sensor? Can I myself calibrate this leak detector or calibration just means buying a new sensor from Inficon and install it? Thank you

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Год назад

      If you have the same leak detector that I do the Stratus or the other model just below it without the display screen. Apparently they say the least detector does not get weak it just instantly dies.
      Which I can confirm Marty made it a little past two years and one day I went to turn it on and read letters with a warning came up so the sensor needs to be replace that simple.
      On a heated diode leak detector like the H 10 those go out to calibration need to be calibrated your Inficon is infrared technology .
      It just took 30 seconds to switch out a new sensor
      The only way for you to know is with a calibrated reference leak detection device specific for that refrigerant that you want to test

    • @charless01
      @charless01 Год назад +1

      @@coldfinger459sub0 Mine is the INFICON D-TEK Stratus. Thanks 👍

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Год назад

      @@charless01 then you got the best of the best 👍