I learned to sew but not fit things in high school. I had a lot of shame for not fitting the standard pattern size. Turns out no matter what side I am, I always have a thick waist, and now I am drafting patterns that fit better. I got tired of clothes that cut my off through the belly. 40 years later and heavier by far I have come to the body acceptance that allows e permission for my things to fit ME. And of course, they look far better.
i have similar but different issue, my hips are lower and wider than standard so have to large a waist with upper pant falling down, or a digging in crotch cause my hips a hungry for fabric. worse is that because i don't look large people auto assume you can fit anything. but reality is unless you have the 'standard' shape whatever that is no clothes fit no matter what size you are. good luck on your drafting/fitting journey, I am just starting mine.
I absolutely agree with your order of alterations, first length, then width. 👍 I have been sewing for 60+ years and altering patterns definitely helps with my mature body and looking good. Any plans to do a RUclips on tummy fitting?
A friend who is very tall and wide wanted a blouse, and we made up the toile. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the general fit, the armholes, the neckline - all pretty close. But the bust!!! She was wearing her largest forms (because she wants to look pretty, of course) and thus *I* am about to embark on my very first Full Bust Adjustment. At least she understands that after that, if she's wearing smaller forms or fillets the shirt won't be nearly as close-fitting - but it'll still be pretty 🙂
As someone who so far has drafted my own patterns and does everything wholly by hand, this is still super useful, as are all of your videos! Since my patterns are drafted based on my own measurements, adjustments are usually these small things you've mentioned, so thank you
my strategy to learn alterations is to, purchase used clothing & start the A. B. C. alterations mistakes from there. its a cheaper cost wise, purchasing Thrift clothing to learn alterations than making boo boos on expensive material. Id like to see you show this concept in real time, its more of a hands on concept . thank you for your wonderful channel. God bless
Alterations, eeek! But then transferring back to the paper pattern confuses me sometimes. I would appreciate a video on this skill especially the depth issues.
Great video…but to really learn this…I can’t recommended Vintage Sewing School enough! Fabulous instruction to view over and over..and the monthly Q&A is so beneficial…
1. I check the measurements on the pattern tissue. 2. I double check my measurements against those of the pattern tissue. 3. Then I make a copy of the pattern tissue; and, I make my alterations to the copy (making sure I have enough ease). 4. Cut out a sample. Baste it together. Then try it on. Move around in it. Make more alterations if necessary. One of the things I am going back to doing is making alterations to "me". Like wearing a shoulder pad on my shorter and lower left shoulder. It doesn't have to sew them into my garments anymore. I can attach it to my bra. I also need to wear a pad in my right bra cup to hide the fact that I am much smaller on that side. Go back to no waistlines in my dresses and jumpers (as we did in the 1960's). No more problems in getting the waist lines straight or comfortable enough to breath and move in. Wear longer skirts that cover most of my legs. I have to wear compression stockings. Longer skirts will help hide this problem; and, the skirt will allow me to pull those stockings up when I need to. What happened to my mother's shape, as she aged, is happening to me.
yes, making copies first and then the adjustments on the copy is something I frequently do. it is so helpful, especially if I still want to use the original pattern for its intended purpose.
Yes copy the pattern before you start! That way when you discover in a fit of dyslexia you did the wrong measurements to the wrong parts of the pattern you can start again. After a time out and cursing!
Evelyn you are my very special friend. What would I do without you? Currently altering the butterick fitting shell to create my perfect block. It has been 3 days of my staring at the pattern, trying on again and again and adjusting. Every question requires I watch a RUclips video 😂
Thank you, this is a wonderful video that I will be coming back to. Up until now I've been self drafting my patterns - which is fun, but just slightly exhausting. I have a bunch of patterns in-bound from ebay from the 1930's, 40's and 50's and, as I'm short, round, busty, short waisted and sway back, I'll be making alterations to each project. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Cathy you’ve got this! Altering patterns is annoying and nitpicking but not really hard. Pick your order of operations write a list and check things off as you go. Make notes and always label your patterns!! There’s nothing more annoying than putting something down then coming back to it not knowing what it is anymore. Or where you got it from. Your eBay purchases sound great can’t wait to hear more about them!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Oooh, they are good. Good enough for me to be revamping my working space. I got a variety of different bodices, skirts, dresses, pants and underpinnings. The stash is going to build a wardrobe. Eventually. I figure I'll break the dresses up into tops & skirts and have the penultimate versions be wearable mock-ups. Three items of clothing off of one pattern, what's not to love. I'll be starting with the patterns that are, measurement wise, a little big. My thinking is that way I can (hopefully) avoid doing FBA's. How's the holiday going??? Have a soak in the lake or river for me, eh.
@@stevezytveld6585 holiday was great but we’re back to the grind. The dog did great and was so very happy to be home! He’s really settling in well. Not enough time to do everything we wanted to but we got to the beach a couple times and saw lots of family. It was wonderful to see everyone.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Oh, that sounds absolutely lovely. Glad you got a chance to see everyone and the dog-o had a relaxing time of it. And you did too... Mister Husband has one week left of holidays (his first paid time-off in ten years). I'm taking advantage of this fact by having him help me move bookcases around. It's the one big hold-up in rearranging the apartment. Excited and slightly dreading the in-between phase of moving stuff, but it's got to be done... I swear, books are like tribbles, every time you look there is somehow more...
Great advice! I start at the top and work my way down. One needs to decide how long the rise is from crotch to waist before the hip adjustment because it can affect the hip placement. So lengths first. Then I look at where to place the darts. Shoulder/side/princess etc. Because these can affect the width. In deciding, I consider the pattern of the material and the silhouette. Then I do the width from top to bottom. After this, mock up and final tweaks. I just finished creating 2 dresses using guipure lace which had me terrified. In the end, I found it easy to do molding adjustments on the client. I just had to remember to check for rhinestones on both layers because these will break your needles. Practice is the best teacher. I often thrift sheets to use for mockups because it is a great price for a lot of fabric.
In hindsight, starting at the top and working your way down seems so logical, so let's forget about me lowering my bust darts and then shortening the shoulders, putting me back to square one again. Once and never again 🤣 Thanks for this very timely video! I just toiled my first ever pair of pants and they look like very classy clown pants, they're so unshaped 🤪 Thank God, I had an experienced seamstress pin them for me. Any tips on getting out of pinned garments without skewering yourself by any chance?
Pants fitting has got to be the toughest. I’ve been working on pants & I think they’re my best attempt so far. They are not perfect as they look good when I’m standing & walking in them but a bit tight when I sit. I also need to take in back waist darts and take some bagginess out of the back side. I will get there though & I’ve made notes so hopefully next pair won’t be so difficult. You won’t ever get it right if you first don’t just take the plunge & dive right in.
Purple is my favorite color. 😃 I usually start with the bust because I have, well, a very not small bust. Due to the size of the bust adjustment I usually need to make, it affects everything else. (I often don't have to make an adjustment in patterns by companies who cater to those of us with larger busts, e.g., Cashmerette.)
Another very helpful video, Evelyn. Thank-you. Am about to unpick an unused camisole (not a good colour), and make a pattern from it. I rarely sew darts, but this cami has a bust dart. Will need to check whether its current position is right, and take it from there.
I never thought about the order of alterations, I have always done what made sense to me. The first thing is to measure and lengthen the waistline to 17 1/2" (44.45cm), a must for every bodice or blouse pattern. Then I modify for my broad and straight shoulders (old-school back shoulder darts), and blend sizes if it is a commercial pattern. After that, I am usually good to go. 😂
The order frequently doesn't matter nearly as much as passing attention to where a change to one piece changes another. Armhole. Waist. Etc. And yes they do interact even if they don't directly affect another piece. Think it through. "I need this sleeve shorter" may change where you want the fullest arm portion, plus where the elbow bends.
thank you, It's definitely something I am looking at as noted on my fitting posts in vintage sewing school, almost have my third toile done, life is getting in the way at the moment :( and i am an expert procrastinator on occasion. rewatched your dart video so have moved it on pattern rather than change angle so will see how i go, amazingly moving the dart instead of changing it fixed my 0.8mm difference when i walked front and back seams. fingers crossed this one is a closer fit. may need to recheck the fit patterns course re finding upper bust/bust/shoulder width from patterns so i can try to remember the actual measure pattern step, not the supplied garment measurements only
I took 3 days to work out and calculate my first block/sloper (I'm not sure if sloper is the correct word. Shoulders, bust, waist, hip. Seat and hem. I'll make a toile and see if it fits me. It looks very long. I used a book by Psmala Stringer Pattern Making.
Evelyn, I believe you wore that jumper as a sleeveless dress once. The armscye for a sleeveless top is a different size/shape than for a jumper, which will be worn over a blouse. Did you compromise with a happy medium between the two? In the US, a jumper isn’t a sweater BTW.
This reminds me of the phrase: be the best beginner you can be.
I love that.
What a wonderful thought!!
Beautiful🥰
I learned to sew but not fit things in high school. I had a lot of shame for not fitting the standard pattern size. Turns out no matter what side I am, I always have a thick waist, and now I am drafting patterns that fit better. I got tired of clothes that cut my off through the belly. 40 years later and heavier by far I have come to the body acceptance that allows e permission for my things to fit ME. And of course, they look far better.
i have similar but different issue, my hips are lower and wider than standard so have to large a waist with upper pant falling down, or a digging in crotch cause my hips a hungry for fabric. worse is that because i don't look large people auto assume you can fit anything. but reality is unless you have the 'standard' shape whatever that is no clothes fit no matter what size you are. good luck on your drafting/fitting journey, I am just starting mine.
Yes yes YES!!! ❤
The comparison of the Blue / Red paint is a great explanation. Thanks Evelyn.
I absolutely agree with your order of alterations, first length, then width. 👍 I have been sewing for 60+ years and altering patterns definitely helps with my mature body and looking good. Any plans to do a RUclips on tummy fitting?
Yes indeed I cannot keep a pair of pants stay up. Ok in the beginning until I sit then pulling up all the day long.
A friend who is very tall and wide wanted a blouse, and we made up the toile. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the general fit, the armholes, the neckline - all pretty close. But the bust!!! She was wearing her largest forms (because she wants to look pretty, of course) and thus *I* am about to embark on my very first Full Bust Adjustment.
At least she understands that after that, if she's wearing smaller forms or fillets the shirt won't be nearly as close-fitting - but it'll still be pretty 🙂
As someone who so far has drafted my own patterns and does everything wholly by hand, this is still super useful, as are all of your videos! Since my patterns are drafted based on my own measurements, adjustments are usually these small things you've mentioned, so thank you
Dear Evelyn, you are wonderful! In addition to teaching how to sew, i feel like you are also teaching executive function as well!
my strategy to learn alterations is to, purchase used clothing & start the A. B. C. alterations mistakes from there.
its a cheaper cost wise, purchasing Thrift clothing to learn alterations than making boo boos on expensive material.
Id like to see you show this concept in real time, its more of a hands on concept .
thank you for your wonderful channel.
God bless
Great ideal Thrift clothes Thanks
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting was like a bible for me when I started doing my own fittings for the first time.
Thanks I will try to find it.
Alterations, eeek! But then transferring back to the paper pattern confuses me sometimes. I would appreciate a video on this skill especially the depth issues.
Thanks for saying that length is one of the easiest. 😄 Lengthening is the main one I need. Thanks for the video.
Great video…but to really learn this…I can’t recommended Vintage Sewing School enough! Fabulous instruction to view over and over..and the monthly Q&A is so beneficial…
Thank you for doing this
1. I check the measurements on the pattern tissue.
2. I double check my measurements against those of the pattern tissue.
3. Then I make a copy of the pattern tissue; and, I make my alterations to the copy (making sure I have enough ease).
4. Cut out a sample. Baste it together. Then try it on. Move around in it. Make more alterations if necessary.
One of the things I am going back to doing is making alterations to "me". Like wearing a shoulder pad on my shorter and lower left shoulder. It doesn't have to sew them into my garments anymore. I can attach it to my bra. I also need to wear a pad in my right bra cup to hide the fact that I am much smaller on that side.
Go back to no waistlines in my dresses and jumpers (as we did in the 1960's). No more problems in getting the waist lines straight or comfortable enough to breath and move in.
Wear longer skirts that cover most of my legs. I have to wear compression stockings. Longer skirts will help hide this problem; and, the skirt will allow me to pull those stockings up when I need to.
What happened to my mother's shape, as she aged, is happening to me.
yes, making copies first and then the adjustments on the copy is something I frequently do. it is so helpful, especially if I still want to use the original pattern for its intended purpose.
Yes copy the pattern before you start! That way when you discover in a fit of dyslexia you did the wrong measurements to the wrong parts of the pattern you can start again. After a time out and cursing!
Evelyn you are my very special friend. What would I do without you? Currently altering the butterick fitting shell to create my perfect block. It has been 3 days of my staring at the pattern, trying on again and again and adjusting. Every question requires I watch a RUclips video 😂
Length followed by contour (cup size) followed by width followed by girth😊.
Thank you, this is a wonderful video that I will be coming back to. Up until now I've been self drafting my patterns - which is fun, but just slightly exhausting. I have a bunch of patterns in-bound from ebay from the 1930's, 40's and 50's and, as I'm short, round, busty, short waisted and sway back, I'll be making alterations to each project.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Cathy you’ve got this! Altering patterns is annoying and nitpicking but not really hard. Pick your order of operations write a list and check things off as you go. Make notes and always label your patterns!! There’s nothing more annoying than putting something down then coming back to it not knowing what it is anymore. Or where you got it from.
Your eBay purchases sound great can’t wait to hear more about them!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Oooh, they are good. Good enough for me to be revamping my working space. I got a variety of different bodices, skirts, dresses, pants and underpinnings. The stash is going to build a wardrobe. Eventually.
I figure I'll break the dresses up into tops & skirts and have the penultimate versions be wearable mock-ups. Three items of clothing off of one pattern, what's not to love. I'll be starting with the patterns that are, measurement wise, a little big. My thinking is that way I can (hopefully) avoid doing FBA's.
How's the holiday going??? Have a soak in the lake or river for me, eh.
@@stevezytveld6585 holiday was great but we’re back to the grind. The dog did great and was so very happy to be home! He’s really settling in well. Not enough time to do everything we wanted to but we got to the beach a couple times and saw lots of family. It was wonderful to see everyone.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Oh, that sounds absolutely lovely. Glad you got a chance to see everyone and the dog-o had a relaxing time of it. And you did too...
Mister Husband has one week left of holidays (his first paid time-off in ten years). I'm taking advantage of this fact by having him help me move bookcases around. It's the one big hold-up in rearranging the apartment. Excited and slightly dreading the in-between phase of moving stuff, but it's got to be done... I swear, books are like tribbles, every time you look there is somehow more...
Good information. Thank you
Great advice!
I start at the top and work my way down.
One needs to decide how long the rise is from crotch to waist before the hip adjustment because it can affect the hip placement. So lengths first.
Then I look at where to place the darts. Shoulder/side/princess etc. Because these can affect the width. In deciding, I consider the pattern of the material and the silhouette.
Then I do the width from top to bottom. After this, mock up and final tweaks.
I just finished creating 2 dresses using guipure lace which had me terrified. In the end, I found it easy to do molding adjustments on the client. I just had to remember to check for rhinestones on both layers because these will break your needles.
Practice is the best teacher. I often thrift sheets to use for mockups because it is a great price for a lot of fabric.
Just get in there! I am very inspired now to get in there and make purple. Lots of great advice as usual. Thanks. 😊
You’re reading my mind! I was just thinking about this because I often have to do an fba and a petite adjustment.
In hindsight, starting at the top and working your way down seems so logical, so let's forget about me lowering my bust darts and then shortening the shoulders, putting me back to square one again.
Once and never again 🤣
Thanks for this very timely video! I just toiled my first ever pair of pants and they look like very classy clown pants, they're so unshaped 🤪
Thank God, I had an experienced seamstress pin them for me. Any tips on getting out of pinned garments without skewering yourself by any chance?
just move slowly and gently. sometimes it can be helpful to have someone help you remove the garment
Yes she have a video about the way you can pin for alterations yourself. You have to explore in her channel but she made a video about that topic. 👍
Safety pins!
Have you tried a wider seam allowance and hem clips? 😉
Pants fitting has got to be the toughest. I’ve been working on pants & I think they’re my best attempt so far. They are not perfect as they look good when I’m standing & walking in them but a bit tight when I sit. I also need to take in back waist darts and take some bagginess out of the back side. I will get there though & I’ve made notes so hopefully next pair won’t be so difficult. You won’t ever get it right if you first don’t just take the plunge & dive right in.
From watching your other videos, I can see how I'm already thinking about fit when I trace out my toile pattern. You're a good teacher!
Purple is my favorite color. 😃 I usually start with the bust because I have, well, a very not small bust. Due to the size of the bust adjustment I usually need to make, it affects everything else. (I often don't have to make an adjustment in patterns by companies who cater to those of us with larger busts, e.g., Cashmerette.)
This is great information. ty
Another very helpful video, Evelyn. Thank-you. Am about to unpick an unused camisole (not a good colour), and make a pattern from it. I rarely sew darts, but this cami has a bust dart. Will need to check whether its current position is right, and take it from there.
I never thought about the order of alterations, I have always done what made sense to me. The first thing is to measure and lengthen the waistline to 17 1/2" (44.45cm), a must for every bodice or blouse pattern. Then I modify for my broad and straight shoulders (old-school back shoulder darts), and blend sizes if it is a commercial pattern. After that, I am usually good to go. 😂
The order frequently doesn't matter nearly as much as passing attention to where a change to one piece changes another. Armhole. Waist. Etc. And yes they do interact even if they don't directly affect another piece. Think it through. "I need this sleeve shorter" may change where you want the fullest arm portion, plus where the elbow bends.
thank you, It's definitely something I am looking at as noted on my fitting posts in vintage sewing school, almost have my third toile done, life is getting in the way at the moment :( and i am an expert procrastinator on occasion. rewatched your dart video so have moved it on pattern rather than change angle so will see how i go, amazingly moving the dart instead of changing it fixed my 0.8mm difference when i walked front and back seams. fingers crossed this one is a closer fit. may need to recheck the fit patterns course re finding upper bust/bust/shoulder width from patterns so i can try to remember the actual measure pattern step, not the supplied garment measurements only
I took 3 days to work out and calculate my first block/sloper (I'm not sure if sloper is the correct word.
Shoulders, bust, waist, hip. Seat and hem. I'll make a toile and see if it fits me. It looks very long. I used a book by Psmala Stringer Pattern Making.
Evelyn, I believe you wore that jumper as a sleeveless dress once. The armscye for a sleeveless top is a different size/shape than for a jumper, which will be worn over a blouse. Did you compromise with a happy medium between the two? In the US, a jumper isn’t a sweater BTW.
Do you have a video on matching plaids as you are laying out pattern pieces?
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🇨🇦😃
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