Even though it's been 50 years since I had my '64 TR4, I'll never forget the sound of that engine idling and revving. So nice to hear it again for real! Nice work.
thanks Elin for the technical stuff and for the excellent production - tripod, in focus, well lit, great sound. And thanks to those who comment. There are some very knowledgeable people following your project. John in Manitoba.
Just a thought, all those "people on you case", have they ever bothered to make a very informative and enternating technical video about anything ???, thought not. Please please ignore the the 0.0001% of idiots, I really enjoy your channel and wish jade mutely was back as well, his stuff was great also, but fell into the trap of reading the crap that the trolls put out there. Please please keep up the brilliant work, we, the vast majority really appreciate your hard work.
Great video Elin the amount of knowledge and ability you possess is mind blowing . The majority of the next generation have absolutely no idea of what it takes. Let alone what Bobs your uncle means ! ....LOL
Hi Elin, that's amazing .... you could hear me shouting to remind you about the sender😆😆. That was a great explanation for the operation of both the sender and the regulator, thank you very much. Great result on the compression test👏👏 I still think back to that broken or bent pushrod and the engine still ran. Looks like we're close to seeing the test drive. Even Rusty looked excited about that. Have a great weekend and good luck from Spain!!
Great result Elin.. All that hard work & attention to detail has paid off big time. Mechanically & electrically, the old girl is like new again. Pity you can't do the same to my aging systems 😅..
Elin, the owner of this car should be overjoyed with the results of the latest compression test. I always thought that when checking the vacuum advance, that it was really important to get the idle rpm's set to specification first and then proceed with timing and vacuum procedures; while re-adjusting idle rpm as needed to get a good baseline setting?
If the idle is low and the timing is correct. You should adjust the idle at the carbs. Advancing the ignition will raise the revs yes, but you'll then have the car too advanced at higher revs and cause pinking (or detonation). The slots in the knurled nut on the vacuum nut should drop into a detent pressed back by the spring. You can then count how many clicks. I forget how many degrees a click is (not played with these old distributers since the 80's 😂). But you should be able to count out 4 degrees fairly accurately. Timing lights these days can be programmed to flash in advance. So all you need is TDC mark. But if you time it with a light, you must remove and plug the vacuum line. Or you'll get a false reading. The vacuum (depending on the car) can make between 5-15 degrees of advance. But this is by no means the main part of the advance circuit. The bob weights in the distributor do the main work up to around 30 degrees. The vacuum is only there to add a bit of advance on cruising, to improve economy. You won't see a vacuum advance on a performance engine like a Lotus.
When I say I have the feeling it needs to be advanced a little more I don’t mean the rpm are higher there, it just runs smoother at idle and higher rpm. Regarding the strobe light I am not looking to set the timing exactly as per the spec because every engine is individual depending on many factors like type of spark plugs, condition of the ignition components and even camshaft timing. So the spec tells you to set it to 4 degrees BTDC and then fine tune it for “best road performance” and that is what I am gonna do.
@@RustyBeauties I have no doubt you will tune it to perfection. Please don't think I'm moaning, what you do is amazing with the old Triumphs. I just thought I would help clarify and share my knowledge of the ins and outs of engines to your followers 👍 Keep up the good work.
The gauges that rely on the stabilizer are biomechanical so they heat a little strip and that strip moves the needle so the retained heat in the strip keeps the gauge from flopping on and off
So are you going to check the timing with a strobe light? I always thought that was best way to make sure the timing was exactly right. And that you could also check the timing advance with the strobe light too. Maybe @cheftush has one :) The car sounds so much better now from when it came in. That's for sure!
In my opinion every engine is individual in regards with ignition timing. Even the spec tells you to set it to 4 degrees BTDC and then fine tune it “for best road performance” So a strobe light would help me set it to exactly 4 degrees but that doesn’t mean that is the best timing. I am going to adjust “by ear” from here during a road test.
You changed to an electronic ignition. What do you feel you have gained compared to standard ignition set up. I have a TR4 engine with new 87mm pistons in mtTR3A (1960). Do you feel that it is better to upgrade to electronic ignition and if so what brand/type do you recommend. Just curious. Thanks
Some people are totally against electronic ignition, calling it unreliable and they swear that a set of points that are well maintained are the best option since you can always “massage” them if they fail and get home, while the electronic ignition is dead once it is… dead! Well in my opinion even if the electronic ignition doesn’t improve the spark it always gives you the best spark possible without any maintenance, while the points can give you a weak or inconsistent spark if they are not maintained well. So my theory is electronic ignition is the way to go and if you feel insecure, just throw a set of points and a condenser in the glovebox just in case and enjoy your ride. The brand I like is Pertronix
Elin, when the old voltage (10V) regulator has a zero output, don't the gauges go down to their zero? Or are they 'slow to operate,' in other words do they return to 0 slowly, so that they keep their station more or less until they get 10V again?
I think that compression gauge is a bit "optimistic". 180ft/lbs is crazy high for a TR4. Should be around 140-150. But they do say in the paper work for those gauges that they have a HUGE + or - range.
It is a cheap gauge, yes, but it wasn’t that “optimistic” before the rebuild :) Not only it measured much lower compression, but it was also very inconsistent across the cylinders. Now it is dead on at the same number for all of them. So I trust it
Even though it's been 50 years since I had my '64 TR4, I'll never forget the sound of that engine idling and revving. So nice to hear it again for real! Nice work.
thanks Elin for the technical stuff and for the excellent production - tripod, in focus, well lit, great sound. And thanks to those who comment. There are some very knowledgeable people following your project. John in Manitoba.
Just a thought, all those "people on you case", have they ever bothered to make a very informative and enternating technical video about anything ???, thought not. Please please ignore the the 0.0001% of idiots, I really enjoy your channel and wish jade mutely was back as well, his stuff was great also, but fell into the trap of reading the crap that the trolls put out there. Please please keep up the brilliant work, we, the vast majority really appreciate your hard work.
Great video Elin the amount of knowledge and ability you possess is mind blowing . The majority of the next generation have absolutely no idea of what it takes. Let alone what Bobs your uncle means ! ....LOL
Excellent explanation on the gauges and the vacuum advance unit Elin!
Another excellent episode. Brown paper and Sharpie, Numberphile vibes.
Another great episode !! Looking forward to the test drive and fine tuning.
Very good explanations and clear thinking. Thanks, Elin. That car is certainly going to be an excellent driver!
Hi Elin, that's amazing .... you could hear me shouting to remind you about the sender😆😆.
That was a great explanation for the operation of both the sender and the regulator, thank you very much.
Great result on the compression test👏👏 I still think back to that broken or bent pushrod and the engine still ran.
Looks like we're close to seeing the test drive. Even Rusty looked excited about that.
Have a great weekend and good luck from Spain!!
Great result Elin.. All that hard work & attention to detail has paid off big time. Mechanically & electrically, the old girl is like new again. Pity you can't do the same to my aging systems 😅..
Thank you Elin
Elin, the owner of this car should be overjoyed with the results of the latest compression test.
I always thought that when checking the vacuum advance, that it was really important to get the idle rpm's set to specification first and then proceed with timing and vacuum procedures; while re-adjusting idle rpm as needed to get a good baseline setting?
If the idle is low and the timing is correct. You should adjust the idle at the carbs. Advancing the ignition will raise the revs yes, but you'll then have the car too advanced at higher revs and cause pinking (or detonation). The slots in the knurled nut on the vacuum nut should drop into a detent pressed back by the spring. You can then count how many clicks. I forget how many degrees a click is (not played with these old distributers since the 80's 😂). But you should be able to count out 4 degrees fairly accurately.
Timing lights these days can be programmed to flash in advance. So all you need is TDC mark. But if you time it with a light, you must remove and plug the vacuum line. Or you'll get a false reading. The vacuum (depending on the car) can make between 5-15 degrees of advance. But this is by no means the main part of the advance circuit. The bob weights in the distributor do the main work up to around 30 degrees. The vacuum is only there to add a bit of advance on cruising, to improve economy. You won't see a vacuum advance on a performance engine like a Lotus.
When I say I have the feeling it needs to be advanced a little more I don’t mean the rpm are higher there, it just runs smoother at idle and higher rpm. Regarding the strobe light I am not looking to set the timing exactly as per the spec because every engine is individual depending on many factors like type of spark plugs, condition of the ignition components and even camshaft timing. So the spec tells you to set it to 4 degrees BTDC and then fine tune it for “best road performance” and that is what I am gonna do.
@@RustyBeauties I have no doubt you will tune it to perfection. Please don't think I'm moaning, what you do is amazing with the old Triumphs. I just thought I would help clarify and share my knowledge of the ins and outs of engines to your followers 👍 Keep up the good work.
The gauges that rely on the stabilizer are biomechanical so they heat a little strip and that strip moves the needle so the retained heat in the strip keeps the gauge from flopping on and off
Don't want to be pedantic but there's nothing living in the voltage regulator. It's electromechanical.
@@johngidman4574 bimetallic my bad
So are you going to check the timing with a strobe light? I always thought that was best way to make sure the timing was exactly right. And that you could also check the timing advance with the strobe light too. Maybe @cheftush has one :) The car sounds so much better now from when it came in. That's for sure!
In my opinion every engine is individual in regards with ignition timing. Even the spec tells you to set it to 4 degrees BTDC and then fine tune it “for best road performance” So a strobe light would help me set it to exactly 4 degrees but that doesn’t mean that is the best timing. I am going to adjust “by ear” from here during a road test.
@@RustyBeauties Very good point. Cheers.
You changed to an electronic ignition. What do you feel you have gained compared to standard ignition set up. I have a TR4 engine with new 87mm pistons in mtTR3A (1960). Do you feel that it is better to upgrade to electronic ignition and if so what brand/type do you recommend. Just curious. Thanks
????? For you as you seem to have lost yours.
Some people are totally against electronic ignition, calling it unreliable and they swear that a set of points that are well maintained are the best option since you can always “massage” them if they fail and get home, while the electronic ignition is dead once it is… dead! Well in my opinion even if the electronic ignition doesn’t improve the spark it always gives you the best spark possible without any maintenance, while the points can give you a weak or inconsistent spark if they are not maintained well. So my theory is electronic ignition is the way to go and if you feel insecure, just throw a set of points and a condenser in the glovebox just in case and enjoy your ride.
The brand I like is Pertronix
Elin, when the old voltage (10V) regulator has a zero output, don't the gauges go down to their zero? Or are they 'slow to operate,' in other words do they return to 0 slowly, so that they keep their station more or less until they get 10V again?
The gauges respond slowly (they are also bi-metallic strips), so they effectively dampen the on/off nature of the old stabilizer.
Very good instructions!you are a great teacher,where in Canada are you,Ontario?😊JR
Yes, he is in Ontario - just outside of Toronto I think.
I think that compression gauge is a bit "optimistic". 180ft/lbs is crazy high for a TR4. Should be around 140-150. But they do say in the paper work for those gauges that they have a HUGE + or - range.
It is a cheap gauge, yes, but it wasn’t that “optimistic” before the rebuild :) Not only it measured much lower compression, but it was also very inconsistent across the cylinders. Now it is dead on at the same number for all of them. So I trust it
I have a strobe light. I'm not too far from you. I've got four new cars so I don't need it 😊
Hi Elin,
PM me your mailing address and I will send you one of my voltage stabilizers to try.
Dave