The view through the scope is a higher resolution than it records,not really getting a true picture here,just bought one and for ratting and rabbits its superb,it could be used for centrefire in the day/night mode but the thermal would only be a blob at anything over 100 yards,fine if you have a spotter already and use night mode to shoot
Do you use your shooting reticle to point at the target when trying to get the range with the range finder or do you point the ranging reticle at the target? The reason i ask is because when pointing the shooting reticle at the target the range is correct, but when pointing the ranging reticle at the target the range finder is reading 120yds at 100yds.
If you range in low light or darkness you'll see the laser flash directly over the ranging reticle - and that's the distance that's measured and displayed. I've never found the measured range to be as inaccurate as you claim
@brucemcpherson8832 It definitely is. Ill be returning it under warranty. Thanks. Edit: After looking into this further i was aiming at a longer rather than wider target that is elevated off the ground about 5ft. When pointing the ranging reticle directly at the target the ranging beam is wider than the target and is picking up the distance out past the target by about 20ft. If i point the ranging reticle at the base of the target on the ground i get the correct range. So basically if shooting at targets that are more narrow than the ranging beam that it projects, it would be best to point the ranging reticle at the base of the target on the ground. Or to keep it consistent just point the ranging reticle at the base of all targets so there's no room for error.
@@justsayin7937 Most scope mounted laser rangefinders now use a horizontal laser splash because in most cases, the target animal is either on the ground or is longer than it's high. Early PARD scopes used a laser with a vertical splash and it gave incorrect ranges on everything except fenceposts 🙂
No wind value. This scope was running a pre-release version of the firmware that had the holdover marked shifted about 4 or 5 pixels to the right of the vertical stadia on the reticle. There is a newer version of the firmware which eliminates this problem, but I haven't had a chance to install it yet
I've never used a Vulpine so can't say for sure. However, everything i hear about the Vulpine suggests that it does no need a laser IR and a decent LED IR will do the job
Yes, it's really, really good and the ballistic calculator is reliably accurate as long as you give it accurate data to use in its calculations. The most important data are: zero distance, muzzle velocity , height of the scope above the bore, and ballistic coefficient of the bullet Less important (except for long range shooting) are: bullet weight, bullet length, calibre, temperature and altitude
@@brucemcpherson8832 I understood What data does she need for these calculations? the resolution is 384, did you like it better in night mode or in thermal mode?
@@kfcar2013 For most people the data you need to enter is: Zero distance Height of the scope above the bore Muzzle velocity Ballistic coefficient of the bullet For shooting at longer ranges you can also enter: Bullet weight Bullet length Calibre Temperature Altitude All of that data can be directly entered into the scope, although it can also be done in the DNT app and then sent to the scope by wifi The thermal resolution is 256x192, not 384 I run mine in dual mode where I can switch between optical in the main screen and thermal in the Picture in Picture window or with a quick press of a button flip that to thermal in the main screen and optical in the PiP There are examples of me doing this in the video The thermal is pretty basic and is really there to detect targets rather than shoot them with it (although that is perfectly doable at short ranges) The optical image is far more detailed than the thermal image so, for accurately placed shots, you really need to shoot with the optical image
You get what you pay for. The thermal is not designed for long range shooting - it's designed to detect thermal hot spots which can then be confirmed with the optical channel. As can be seen from the video, the thermal channel is more than good enough for close range shots The Thermnight is primarily designed for air rifle and rimfire shooters - and in that area it excels - it's not deigned for use with centrefires shooting long ranges
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
The view through the scope is a higher resolution than it records,not really getting a true picture here,just bought one and for ratting and rabbits its superb,it could be used for centrefire in the day/night mode but the thermal would only be a blob at anything over 100 yards,fine if you have a spotter already and use night mode to shoot
Do you use your shooting reticle to point at the target when trying to get the range with the range finder or do you point the ranging reticle at the target? The reason i ask is because when pointing the shooting reticle at the target the range is correct, but when pointing the ranging reticle at the target the range finder is reading 120yds at 100yds.
If you range in low light or darkness you'll see the laser flash directly over the ranging reticle - and that's the distance that's measured and displayed. I've never found the measured range to be as inaccurate as you claim
@brucemcpherson8832 It definitely is. Ill be returning it under warranty. Thanks.
Edit:
After looking into this further i was aiming at a longer rather than wider target that is elevated off the ground about 5ft. When pointing the ranging reticle directly at the target the ranging beam is wider than the target and is picking up the distance out past the target by about 20ft. If i point the ranging reticle at the base of the target on the ground i get the correct range. So basically if shooting at targets that are more narrow than the ranging beam that it projects, it would be best to point the ranging reticle at the base of the target on the ground. Or to keep it consistent just point the ranging reticle at the base of all targets so there's no room for error.
@@justsayin7937 Most scope mounted laser rangefinders now use a horizontal laser splash because in most cases, the target animal is either on the ground or is longer than it's high. Early PARD scopes used a laser with a vertical splash and it gave incorrect ranges on everything except fenceposts 🙂
@@brucemcpherson8832 That definitely makes sense. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice video. I just got my thermnight yesterday. 00:30 Why is the ballistic drop crosshair to the right of center? Do you have a wind value plugged in?
No wind value. This scope was running a pre-release version of the firmware that had the holdover marked shifted about 4 or 5 pixels to the right of the vertical stadia on the reticle. There is a newer version of the firmware which eliminates this problem, but I haven't had a chance to install it yet
Hi bruce whats best laser ir for vulpine mk3 rear add on? Cheers great channel
I've never used a Vulpine so can't say for sure. However, everything i hear about the Vulpine suggests that it does no need a laser IR and a decent LED IR will do the job
@brucemcpherson8832 thanks Bruce I've got a pbirx illuminator hopefully should be enough 🤞
If you can't get a clean kill then don't take the shot. Clearly not enough resolution/clarity at that range.
@@BrettMRC exactly this , totally and utterly disgraceful
Absolutely not true. Maybe he didn’t dial it in enough, but getting a clean shot at 100 is not a problem at all.
Some shit shooting I’m afraid
Troll
@@andysidney7055
Not at all why do you think he got banned from the airgun forum .
hello
Is this sight really good?
Does the ballistics calculator really have reliable accuracy?
Yes, it's really, really good and the ballistic calculator is reliably accurate as long as you give it accurate data to use in its calculations.
The most important data are: zero distance, muzzle velocity , height of the scope above the bore, and ballistic coefficient of the bullet
Less important (except for long range shooting) are: bullet weight, bullet length, calibre, temperature and altitude
@@brucemcpherson8832 I understood
What data does she need for these calculations?
the resolution is 384, did you like it better in night mode or in thermal mode?
@@kfcar2013 For most people the data you need to enter is:
Zero distance
Height of the scope above the bore
Muzzle velocity
Ballistic coefficient of the bullet
For shooting at longer ranges you can also enter:
Bullet weight
Bullet length
Calibre
Temperature
Altitude
All of that data can be directly entered into the scope, although it can also be done in the DNT app and then sent to the scope by wifi
The thermal resolution is 256x192, not 384
I run mine in dual mode where I can switch between optical in the main screen and thermal in the Picture in Picture window or with a quick press of a button flip that to thermal in the main screen and optical in the PiP
There are examples of me doing this in the video
The thermal is pretty basic and is really there to detect targets rather than shoot them with it (although that is perfectly doable at short ranges)
The optical image is far more detailed than the thermal image so, for accurately placed shots, you really need to shoot with the optical image
Some of the worst rabbit shooting you will ever see, pratting about with a gimmick.
Awful Thermal at Resolution: 256x192 pixels Just a Blob of Heat ..Waste of Time
You get what you pay for.
The thermal is not designed for long range shooting - it's designed to detect thermal hot spots which can then be confirmed with the optical channel. As can be seen from the video, the thermal channel is more than good enough for close range shots
The Thermnight is primarily designed for air rifle and rimfire shooters - and in that area it excels - it's not deigned for use with centrefires shooting long ranges