Thinking Like an Automotive Diagnostic Technician
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Today we are looking a little deeper at the mind and process of a diagnostic technician. Right now I am in the process of training two new technicians, with a third starting soon. That means I am in full on teaching mode all day long. I really enjoy doing it. So I am trying to help develop these new tech's diagnostic process. That is something I also wanted to share with you guys. It is something that a lot of automotive techs really struggle with. It is not an easy thing to build. Then after you build it, you have to keep fine tuning it, and working it. Not only to get better, but to stay current.
For full show notes, visit the blog at;goo.gl/t3otZJ
Join me today as we step inside:
About the diagnostic process
Ways to think about diagnosing cars
Ways to get stuck diagnosing cars
How to get unstuck
K.I.S.S
Work easy to hard
Don't Assume
Scan tool loop
Getting more information
FUSES!
Write it down
and more
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"You gotta go low tech before you go high tech" A factory tech specialist from Mercedes Benz told me this when I was an Apprentice. Some of the best advice ever.
PHXGlock what do u mean? what was the context of the advice?
Low tech would be like checking primary things like fuel supply. While high tech would be checking the fuel injectors/sensors etc...
@@mn4a15 Pull out the test light before the big bad scan tool
@@mn4a15 In a no crank situation, check ground first.
@@ScorpionRegent gotcha
I'm in the fortunate situation where I get to diag 10-20 cars every day and this covers it pretty well. The only things I could add are to make sure you know how to use your service information as efficiently and thoroughly as you can, never assume anything that you haven't tested, and finally relax and have fun stress and anxiety make bad ideas and decisions seem good.
Eric Payne "anxiety make bad ideas and decisions seem good"
That my friend is EXACTLY RIGHT!!!
Thank you my last job I had to remind myself how much I loved it.. hard work... hard thinking.. frustration fu... fu of finally things working... Lol pajajajaja yeah I love it.. I live for it
Leave the torch and cutting wheel in another area..
I'm a diagnosis master technician Toyota, i work for cfao in African and i really like this videos, thank you for all
I work as a military technician on humvee’s and other trucks. We had a humvee come in with a lighting issue. Turn the headlights on and all the lights, marker lights, turn signals, stop lights, and blackout lights(Lights for night driving with NVGs) except the headlights would come on.
Started with the switch checked pin to pin and everything was fine, checked the connector same thing everything was fine. Jumped the wiring from the connector to the headlights, and other lights one by one and they worked like they should.
After a good full day of checking continuity, powers, grounds, this and that and everything else I realized I was having to awkwardly twist the harness and connector for the light switch to plug it in. Looked at the pins on the connector and pins on the switch and found out the connector was twisted internally and all the pins were about 4 off so pin “a” on the connector was going to pin “d” on the switch.
Took the connector apart and put I back together the right way and presto we had headlights and everything working like it was supposed to
Are you a Civ Tech for the Guard or Reserves? That's where I started as a title 10 tech for the Guard did it for 12 years and in that times working of FMTV/LMTV,HEMTTs,Humvess ect I adopted a diagnostic strategy that helped me became really really good at diagnosing issues. I'm now the main diagnostic tech for my current shop. I wants say that working as a Military tech that diagnoses is so over looked and parts changing is considered diagnostics lol.
Hey guys,
I had a P0420 code for several years.
At the time, and with my lack of knowledge, I didn’t care about the P0420 code …I thought it was only emissions. The code IS for emissions, but it can ALSO mean other problems exist too! I’ll explain later.
So I drove it like that for maybe 35k miles, maybe 40k.
A surprise pregnancy (no. 5) sent us over the baby seat limit for our larger ride. Lol
Alas, we had to buy a new car …and sell my faithful Altima (now at 201,000). This made the P0420 code more of a deal breaker. I wouldn’t get as much with the engine light on.
And so began my journey to a CEL-free dash!
I started with Bluedriver. So glad I did!! I was able to see my fuel trims!!!! Life changing tool!!!
I was at 9% on my long trim and 17% on my short trim!! This meant I had a few leaks!
I was opened up to the world of not trusting CEL lights! Curse you Bluedriver!! Lol
I started with a starting-fluid-spray-test and found the first leak. Turns out when I had replaced my PCV valve, I had dropped a small ring gasket that sat in the PCV-hose-to-intake port. Fixed that and watched the STFT drop to 14%. Still not good enough. Read that a lot of Altimas have cracks in their exhaust header. Checked that and found TONS! TONS! There’s my problem!
Fortunately, the cracks and the P0420 code are the same part. My destiny was calling me! I had to replace the catalytic manifold to WIN! Lol
.
So I first tried a $100 aftermarket catalytic converter/exhaust manifold on Amazon. Didn’t even come close to fitting! Should have known.
Returned that and bought a $350 “OEM” one from O’Reilly’s. That didn’t fit too well either. Ugh!
Engine side heat shield didn’t fit, so I left that out. Had to modify a few heat shield holes for the radiator side.
Had to use spacers and different bolts to match the manifold mounting bracket up near the bottom. Finally got it in. What a pain!
Also found out that my exhaust pipe bracket had been squashed from coming down off a curb from our yard or something. So I replaced that and it helped the pipe meet up with the new manifold even more. Still wasn’t OEM though as O’Reilly said it was. Pshshh.
Anyways, so I started the car up.
P0420 gone! Boom. Within the first drive cycle! LTFT went down to 8%! So awesome! LTFT + STFT went to 9%. Nice!
.
Here’s where the crap hit the fan!
The dreaded P1273 started popping up to say hi. Ugh!
Went through a few fuel trim clearing procedures (including unplugging the battery overnight) and it just kept popping back up.
Tons of sites were saying it was a lean issue. Injectors, bad sensors, yada yada.
Tried replacing my sensors a few times. Both upstream and downstream! Nope. It came back.
.
Found on RUclips that ONE mechanic was saying this code also popped up from an EXHAUST LEAK after the flex hose joint. I had remembered that after I installed the new converter manifold that the flex joint just didn’t feel as nice of a fit when I had put it back together. It was tight, but just didn’t feel right.
So I looked at that while the car was running and sure enough, noticed that I could hear the engine when I put my ear up to the flex joint. There was a smaaaall gap where O2 could get in and throw the readings at the 2nd sensor! Not enough to notice a huge difference on my Bluedriver (2nd sensor was showing 0.265 volts), but enough to supposedly throw my P1273 code.
So I installed a few rings around the male pipe connector on the manifold to help lift the curved side of the flex pipe gasket out a little further to fill up that gap I was talking about. After a few rings that I had cut out of a tin sheet I was able to make it mesh good to work with the new manifold and old flex joint and pipe. Bolted it back up. Started the car. No more noise.
The car sounded better than it had in a long time! No cracks in the exhaust, no flex pipe leak!
Performed the fuel trim history clearing procedure.
Man oh man I can’t tell you how pleased I am!!!! LTFT is 7%! LTFT + STFT hovers from 7 to 9%!
Been driving the car now for a long time and no codes!!! No P0420, no P1273!
Engine purrs!
Here’s my final readings:
(range includes cold start to warm engine, at idle and 3000 RPM)
STFT 0 to 9%
LTFT 7%
O2B1 0.12 to 0.9V
O2B2 0.28 to 0.31V
So what did I learn? Here’s the main things that will change my mechanic life forever:
1. Catalytic converters should last for 200,000+ miles with a well maintained engine. If you’re cat goes bad, you probably have other problems that just haven’t thrown a code yet.
2. You can have small problems with no CELs that can turn into big ones!
3. Fuel trims can really help diagnose issues!
4. The 2nd O2 sensor is not JUST used for exhaust emissions! The ECM uses BOTH O2 sensors to determine fuel trims (and lean or rich fuel conditions).
So what did this mean for me? That I will fix catalytic converter problems much sooner from now on if I plan to keep my car around past 200,000 miles.
If your engine is running rich for a long time it can damage other parts, and eventually expensive ones. I’ll admit, emissions aren’t my biggest concern. But I do care about engine longevity.
All that said, if you have a P0420, P1273, or P1274, hopefully my story will help save you some hassle.
Take care,
Benny
Thank you very much . I own a g35 and i have the p1273 code. I will fix it tomorrow
I literally just started watching you’re videos today and I’m ready to be an entry level tech after about a year an a half of doing lube tech work. I am learning so much from watching you’re video and I really appreciate them and the effort that goes into them.
Awesome. And thank you.
It's kind of embarrassing how many times I've been burned by a missing or blown fuse.
It happens to all of us!
Im glad this came up on my recommended tab, definitely opened up my mind of how i work on cars. 👍
Thanks for putting driveway diagnostics videos up. It seems that with your video the only way crooked mechanics can rip people off is by NOT telling the customer whats really wrong with their car.
Your channel is great. I'm thinking of suggesting that my apprentice watch. You know, like "homework"!
Haha. Awesome. Thank you.
I'm doing that as we speek
I spent 7 years in the NAVY and was a reactor operator and all the hands on repair ways was always start at the end of the circuit and if it is not working cut in half and if it not working there you then cut it 1/2 again . With that mind set I got thu some very hard NAVY schools . 2 had a 45 % failure because they would not follow that way of repair . The NAVY wants it done there way as it has proven to work for them for years. I still use it today I an I was the navy in the late 80 s
Wise words. Sometimes the next step is a step back. Your initial observations are the most important and attention to detail at this stage can save so much time money frustration and effort. Great video mate.
I'm currently in automotive tech school and they're teaching us how to use scan tools to detect trouble codes in my emissions class and I love it well tbh I love everything car related but this is Gold to me
Thank you for the video! I troubleshoot and repair industrial equipment for a living and this video is going to get passed around the shop for the benefit of the junior techs.
When checking fuses also check that it's the right amperage fuse for the circuit. There are people out there who don't understand the difference and will use any fuse that fits.
Thank you for this video. I'm entering the apprentice program for Volkswagen so this helps allot.
The crazy thing these days is how the technology gap is changing. I trained as and spent twenty five years working as an avionics engineer . Modern vehicles are embodying technology that was the preserve of sophisticated military jets and helicopters! The technology gap is getting narrower all the time. We have cars with radar,thermal imaging, flir, head up displays etc! It feels like the car makers are in a technology arms race to utilise the most cutting edge technology available. They only going to get more complicated and tricky to work on. All I can see in the future is punishing bills for owners when glitches rear their heads. The repairs and maintenance on the aircraft shows just how much work is involved.
There is something very rewarding about fixing that electrical issue no other "mechanic" in town could!
100% agree!
I know the feeling 100% love the show!
TheeMovieCritic88 Thanks :)
What got me many times was a low voltage/worn car battery. A VW Passat B6 sometimes did fire up and sometimes it did not or id did take too many tries, thought it was a steering wheel lock problem because it's apparently a common issue and has similar symptoms but it has to have been the starter motor solenoid not having enough current running through the coil to push the pinion all the way through to engage with the starter ring and close the circuit.
Very good advice. Thanks!
Same here about walking away, a simple task alows my brain to reboot and normally I get an idea where to go next, and boom problem found.
One thing I do is based on experience is testing most likely cause, if the both head lights do not work but high beams work and all other lights the easiest thing to do is put a bulb in:) built in test light;) unless bumber removal is required. A lot of techs have the issue of over thinking a problems.
As for modules confusing tech, BTDT tail lights go out on a later model dodge truck, but a bulb in and it still doesn't work, clear fault code in BCM and it works again. Lots of techs have gotten stuck on that simple issue.
Wish I would of watched this video at the beginning of the week. Specially the part of checking for missing fuses lol. Had one were someone removed the fuse and I spent a few hours till I realized that.
all good points, When I worked for Mack/ Volvo trucks if we did pull a module or something electric say maybe a recall or it was bad on one thing but good on other you would keep it label what the issue is on it put in your personal cabinet as a test piece, for example the dash cluster assy i had one that the RPM gauge was dead on but everything else worked great on, i had it marked no RPM gauge so if I had one that say isn't reading Oil PSI or the high beam indicator was out or whatever rather than busting the breakout box out and doing an hours worth of recommended testing per the engineers at Mack/Volvo if I thought i had a bad sensor/sending unit Id pop 4 screws out unplug 2 harnesses swap in my test unit and boom id have about a 99% idea of what to go recommend to the customer rather than spending an hour and then maybe still taking a shot in the dark I could spend 5 mins still get paid for my 1.5 diag and be pretty damn sure that I was making the right call, everyone had a couple dash cluster stuck away somewhere did that for abs modules and yaw rate sensors belt tensioners I had a whole cabinet beside my box full of test modules that were known good modules
working for a dealer you see a lot of the same ol issues day in day out but you get too relaxed make a bad call and miss a proper diagnosis, you might have just bought yourself an expensive ass part, granted every now and then you get an issue in you swap out the test pieces and still nothing and still have to end up with the break out boxes dash pulled apart checking wiring harness but most of the time you see enough of it ya get a pretty good idea what its gonna be its just nice to know that what you say its going to be is the fix, ground problems and missing fuses are the biggest problems these days,
This is a great video,thank you for your tips!
Like the vids, man. First tip of the vid. Check fuses. Then you said you did all the basic checks and about to check the motor. Then the problem was a missing fuse...
Amazing video on Diagnostic thinking, thank you
thanks
I love the IT makes funny noises complaint. With that being the total of what they can describe.
Funny that you talk about a NB top last week I worked on a 2003 for the same issue wen I would unlatch the top the little screen showed a open top but the pump would not run I checked for fault codes there was one for the right side top lock then removed the quarter panel and all was ok then check the wiring diagrams and it showed 2 fuse above the pedals assembly there was a breaker style fuse tested it was ok so found the pump valve check the mechanical operation of the top all seem ok so pulled the left trunk trim and put power on the pump motor and it runs so I notice two relays behind the pump so I pulled them out to check for corrosion put some contacts spray an tried the top and guess what it worked so I fixed it and I'm not 100 % sure what fixed it not sure if it was a bad contact on one of the relays of just the pump brushes were not seated properly or just applying direct current to the motor made it start any way the result was ok I did know about the window relearn procedure for the NB to possibly fix a top issue.
V10PDTDI The NBC seem to have some weird issues. I have never seen that issue you did. I see a lot of open position switch and flap issues
Hey Charles, I have a 94 Dodge Caravan that is my every day driver. I had a problem with the torque converter not locking up. After first checking the solenoid, the ECM for a ground signal, the switch at the brake pedal, going through the wire harness, all of which were just fine, I took it over to the local trans shop. The guy looked at me like I was nuts, he couldn't understand why I was fixing my 21 year old vehicle in the first place. I took the thing home, pulled the trans, put in a new torque converter, put it all back together, still wouldn't lock up. I finally scoured the internet and found a wiring schematic. Turns out the problem was the coolant temp sensor, it should have 35-40 ohms of resistance, mine showed 41 ohms. Apparently it was out of spec enough to cause the converter not lock up, but not far enough to trigger a code. 20 bucks and ten minutes was all it took to make the repair. Wish I had seen that schematic before all this, but in the end that is how I found the problem. If you drive an old vehicle you may have to come to realization that most places don't retain all that old repair data and you will probably have make the repairs yourself. I proudly call myself a mechanic.
Very insightful 👏 👌 👍🏻
I'm in training through Toyota. Last month we get a car from Carmax and the ticket just said "replaced fuel pump/ no start" we diagnose a PCM and and a integration relay. We checked everything by the book. Got the computer released and ordered and the IR too. Installed both and got absolutely nothing after the handshake. Checked everything again and we where getting power to the computer but it was not responding. We had our diag specialist look at it and work with us for a day and a half and got nowhere. Manager takes the ticket from us today and gives it to the same Diag Tech and in less than 40 mins he calls us over and shows us that the computer had been back probed by something big enough to separate the pins in the connector. Now they are working on getting the wire harness approved.
Wise words, just wish there were more out there with your professionalism and pro-active attitude. I have graduates working for me who struggle with a pencil, never mind the ability to fault find or tackle the black art of operating a dvm, oh the joys. Keep up the cracking videos, aw ra best.
Great video!
Andrea Gili Thank you :)
Question for you- I have a mechanical aptitude test coming up for a job, that is a hands on test rather than a written one. The test is to troubleshoot and correct basic issues on a simple machine. I have no prior job experience or training, but I’m told it’s a “you have it or you don’t” kinda thing. Have you ever heard of such a test, and if so, are they any tips you could give?
The construction band jam 😆
Been watching a lot of your videos was wondering where your from and I know this is a kinda a big deal but ball park of what u make a year with all ur vw training and certs. What your role is at your shop i.e. Manager tech etc thank you
part of the process which we use (or should) in the computer world, is known-good, not as easy i admit, in an automotive situation, but if possible comparing your diagnostic readings or results to a known good working version (even if it is in another car) - sometimes specified values in manuals are ideal, not real world.
also regarding fuses, i once was diagnosing an issue in one of my older cars, and wondered why it kept blowing, i went through a large number of fuses, before i took the step back and thought "is the fuse the correct rating" - turned out it wasn't which was why it was blowing all the time - luckily not a whole lot of time wasted, but a dumb oversight never the less
My 2006 nissan maxima has blown the main fusible link on the positive battery terminal several times in the last couple years but recently blew 2 times in one day so I just had it towed straight to the shop because I didn't want to have to buy a new fusible link terminal (like $35 each) without knowing what's causing it. Anyway, I've talked to a handful of different mechanics and most of them said that that main fuse can only be blown by a short to ground and that it would definitely be between the battery and starter. Although I was told to check the negative cable as well. Seems not *too* complex as other parts of the wiring harness but my question is this: can the main fuse be blown for any other reasons? I only ask because one of the mechanics I spoke to said that he has replaced the fusible link on many nissans due to something like a locked ac compressor.
If it's just two cables, maybe I could get lucky and figure it out myself or just replace the cables entirely. Oh also of note: the fuse blew either while the car was off or when I tried to turn it on (I didn't check the fusible link before I turned the car over because I didn't know the car was dead until after I tried to start the car and realized it was no crank, no start). Thanks so much in advance!
So I grew up watching tool time with Tim Allen... yeah caught myself grunting a couple of time same thing... machines... cars and your beard makes me do
Hahaha man that show was the jam back in the day.
6:34 if there is no Faults, the PCM never got the command to react, thus there isnt gonna be a code/fault. - my two cents
If there is a command, and the Module doesn't respond to it, and also throws no code = the module is bad.
I always check fuses before anything else unless its a light not working then ill check the bulb itself first then go from there
Good video
I am a toyota technician and have been at a dealership for a little over 3 years. I have one ase Certification for suspension and steering . I feel like some of the other technicians and service advisors don't trust me to do certain work on vehicles . I work on all makes and models new and used and I am the ONLY guy in the dealership who isn't afraid to tackle any problem on any car . I also have a degree for automotive technology. I am hoping to become a master certified toyota technical by the end of this year. How can I get the people in my dealership to trust my work and have faith in me ?
Thanks for your time
ToyTech816 That is a great question. For the most part, it takes time. It takes doing a good job over and over and over!
What do you think the reason for the mistrust?
What can get really frustrating is when you work your ass off and do a great job, no one notices. But if you make a mistake, everyone knows it.
I worked really hard early in my career to earn the customers trust. When customers start asking for you by name, everyone takes notice.
Keep working hard. Keep fixing cars right the first time and have a good attitude!!!
How do you decide which codes take priority over others? Like if I have a p0171 and a p0128 and a p0420. Which do I go with first if the customers only complaint is that the light is on. Thank you.
Hi HumbleMechanic,
I was wondering do you have specific wishes for information about a car from the engineers at the car manufacturers. Apart from correct wiring diagrams. What kind of information is constructive to you?
+SE45CX correct info is VITAL!! Also information about reading and interpreting Values seen by ECM.
And a more in depth explanation of how systems function. We are expected to know everything and every system and the info is WEAK.
when i worked at a vw dealership i ended up using the vag 1551. not as fancy but it worked.
+Brian Skinner hell yeah 1551!! That thing was awesome for talking to that generation car. Probably wouldn't help out too much today.
I agree. I'm not sure if you got to read my comment about the AAA vr6 compared to the newer vr6. I thought both the AAA and aba engines were more responsive than the newer ones. Both 4&6 cylinders especially if you do a quick snap of the throttle. I wasn't sure what you thought. Let me know. Thanks Brian
Also sometimes the info the customers leave out they don’t immediately bring it up because they don’t think it has anything to do with the problem until you ask them
right now I'm trying to diagnose a water leak in the roof of a 2015 Ram 1500 without a sunroof. Not easy. About customer information. I recently saw an RO go to a neighboring tech that read, "Test Drive, Customer states something is wrong with the car".
Seth Jones Stuff like that really pisses me off!
HumbleMechanic yeah, but then you get some that make you laugh like, "customer states, cant feel car shifting into 9th gear" on a jeep that has an 8 speed transmission.
+Seth Jones That's when I write on the RO " Problem stated does not occur in shop." That service writer should be fired. My field is consumer/prosumer electronics and we see all the same kinds of retarded shit that you all do.The difference is I have the opportunity to embarrass the boss in front of the customer when he writes on a work order "fix it" or "make it go." (He's getting better)
What is the best place to start if you want to become a mechanic
I have a Chevy Astro van that's in limp mode what could be causing that.....?
For sure. I've run into a vehicle that wouldn't start over the AC fuse. It wasn't on the diagram.
Ronald Martin what is a Chevy Malibu?
Love this video this was an awesome look into the diagnostic mind set of an auto technician. Very valuable, You Rock!!
This one P0171 I spent a good 45 minutes on, found nothing concrete. Asked them to talk to customer, turns out someone else put flex fuel in a non flex fuel vehicle. Voided powertrain warranty for that one.
This will be totally unrelated but . . . I see you're a Chimay lover? (Looks at Chimay sticker) Being from Belgium, i agree with that :p It's an awesome beer
+mesothorium AWESOME!!!
I swear most of the time evap or electrical burns me most evap stuff your parts my work when bench testing and at that point it's a guessing game to find out which part is having a intermittent issue
7000 steps away? The High Hrothgar of maintenance.
After 2 weeks of paying for a rental car or not having a car at all with 2 kids, I've finally learned that not all auto repair shops are created equally. My question is this: if places like Firestone are only very knowledgeable about basic services such as oil changes and breaks, why do they even offer services like taking your entire engine apart? Why would they even offer the option to trace an electrical short in your car? I came in for a pressure test for a coolant leak and without doing ANY other diagnostic tests, they told me to just buy a new car. Why not say "hey, we don't really know what's going on because we don't do complex work like that"
That is a great question. The main reason is to not lose business. I’m sorry for the hassle. I’m guessing it’s too late to get the car somewhere else?
@@HumbleMechanic oh no it's definitely going somewhere else haha. I actually barely asked Firestone about the electrical short because my primary concern was about the overheating. They did a pressure test which revealed a "busted radiator" but apparently there is no way to know if the water pump and other elements of the cooling system are also effected because since the radiator won't hold pressure but that's neither here nor there right this second. I'm done with firestone, gonna replace the fusible link and radiator tomorrow ourselves and then take it to another shop for the other elements we need diagnosed but I was just wondering if I might be able to notice a short myself if it's really just like 1 or 2 cables 🤷♀️ I really have no idea where the cables go or how accessible they are. I think I've read every single thread on the internet regarding main fusible links repeatedly blowing haha. It seems like a lot of people complain about having to replace the entire terminal (instead of just the link) but given mine blew twice in one day and while the car was seemingly not even on, I know there's got to be a bigger issue here. I've not seen anyone talk about my situation exactly and come back with the fix.
I can fix a car fine.. i cant diagnose for shit😂😂
TSB's
Stuck on diag... Ford Escort X2 I think 2002...
P0301 Cyl #1 misfire.
Look at plug, look at ignition wires see no problem. Switch plug and wire with #2 and the #1 injector with #4, test drive... Code P0301 resets. I can not feel a miss even under load. Put on dyno and run it while watching the scope... No misfires.
I am in a reconditioning shop, this car is still under warranty, I talk to the owner(the shop) and send the car to Ford. Ford says it is a problem with the Variable Valve Timing (VVT)... We let them fix it.
Car comes back from Ford light off, on the second drive cycle IT'S BACK!
I belonged the the Automotive Service Council in our area so I take it to a fellow Tech for a look to see if I am missing anything. He says the same thing I do, there is no actual miss.
I talk the the tech at Ford and we compare notes... We send the car back to Ford and Ford Engineering will look at it.
4 weeks later Ford calls us to come get the car. The light is off, I run it for a second drive cycle and no code... I ask the Ford Technician what was done to the car. He says they would not tell him.
I look this car over well. I look to see if the PCM is new and I look at everything under the hood. I can't see where anything was done that I or the Ford Tech could not personally account for.
We compare notes and figure what was done was probably a reprogramming of parameters of the PCM to set the code. Between us it's the only explanation.
This was one of 2 cars ever to defy me. It defied 3 techs all with 20 years experience each, one of them Ford trained. Consensus is Ford Engineering reprogrammed the PCM in a manner that was not quite ethical.
Replace my fuel pump and it was the fuel pump relay. I’d worked from hard to easy... 😂
Are you Joe scott
Nope
KISS Keep It Short and Sweet. When you disparage your listener you LOSE your listener. Non-disparaging comments are more effective when trying to teach; unless you're teaching people to hate you.
@Bruce Lee you are so very unjhappy you keep trying to unload your own discontent onto others, but it doesn't work does it? Heh heh heh!!!
I was taught it was “Keep It Stupid Simple” so you know not to over complicating stuff for yourself but “Keep It Simple Stupid” sounds like you’re calling yourself stupid for potentially making stuff more complicated then it really is for yourself.
1:09 The politically correct way to say it is Keep It Super Simple, but I prefer the old way.
"Did you check all the fuses?" You got suck not following your own advice... We've all done that.
CHECK THE GOD DA** FUSES ALWAYS!!!!!!!!!!! XD
Yes!! 100x yes
@@HumbleMechanic By the way, wouldn't that appear on the computer if you connect the computer car to the laptop?! Because as I remember, the computer program shows everything when you do global test or global diagnose! FYI I went to college 10 years ago and now just returning to work in Auto technician services. Well, just doing some preparations.
New video about future diagnostics
ruclips.net/video/eM9NiOicrVk/видео.html
The military still uses Keep It Simple Stupid 😂
That is how I will always say it, even if it's just in my head.
Like the vids, man. First tip of the vid. Check fuses. Then you said you did all the basic checks and about to check the motor. Then the problem was a missing fuse...
Like the vids, man. First tip of the vid. Check fuses. Then you said you did all the basic checks and about to check the motor. Then the problem was a missing fuse...
That's an issue I have seen a lot. Missing Fuses have eaten the lunch of many techs.
And thanks for the kind words.