I build slot cars from vintage parts and I have a lot of old open frame motors of all makes and it's great fun swapping armatures and modifying them to go faster or run smoother. A lot of the time it doesn't really make that much difference but it's great fun and you do end up with something unique at the end of the day.
That is absolutely brilliant, I love watching you reinvent the X04 and what you done with it, I imagine the bearings have reduced the current draw too! I'd love to see a bearing modded 5 pole put into a Triang Class 08 and a bit of a shunting test if possible
Nice job. The Spitfire with her refurbished X.03 motor certainly runs smoothly. The slow crawl when she started up was lovely to see. Well done. Mon from Monsville Railways.
Great modification. I think the five pole should be next with your poorest runner so you can do a before and after to see how much an improvement it makes.
Why is it not possible to buy new motors for these things? Very frustrating... How hard would it be to convert to something readily available now? I.e the cheapy stuff from china? That would be an interesting idea 💡
Always great to see new ways to improve the old motors, for a bit of fun I down loaded a decibel meter on my phone a before and after test when servicing. To see a britannia pulling a large rake of coaches would be great. All the best.
thanks for sharing this fascinating upgrade. Was always a mystery why some Triang Hornby locomotives ran more noisily , even new out of the box with lubrication.
Thanks for looking, I have always wondered about the tolerances in the bearings, some are nice and have hardly any play and some are awful. I think luck plays a part. Like you say some were definitely noisy from new. All the best to you
Let's upgrade a 5 pole motor. Was it yourself or Oscar who mentioned the hole in the magnets being used for, "tuning" purposes? One of you was going to do an experimental Vid? Made me smile, the Locos running in the background while I'm doing ??? & me! relaxing somehow😁 I've got gaps in my modern trackwork so I get the "clickety clack", even in the middle of one 4th Rad. curved section🤷♂👍👍
Another excellent and informative video.. I live in Tasmania, and find it hard to believe some of the items that you find to work with? Ball race bearings in that small size? Unbelievable?? It must be wonderful to be able to find such things in the first place.. I will see if I can find some drill bits in such precise sizes, but doubt it will be possible locally? Amazing work... Thank you for sharing..
Hello Robin, I find all these little parts are mail order, sometimes even from China. I find I spend quite some time sourcing parts by looking on the internet. There are no shops local to me with specialist items, Our last electronics shop 'Maplin' shut a while ago too so without the computer I'd be lost. All the best to you in Tasmania
Amazing! I'm convinced. Really need you to think about the wear that occurs in the axle bearings of EMU/DMU bogies, this results in rocking which breaks contact.
Great video got a beaten up X04 motor so I may give it a try myself one day when I find myself a remagnetiser. I think what would be a cool project for the future depending on what you have would be to upgrade the Hornby Dublo 2 rail/Wrenn R1 and N2 chassis with a five pole armature and ballraces like what you have done with the X04.
@@MrSnooze A few of the later Wrenn models had 5 pole upgrades with the exception of the R1/N2 chassis I think so doing something involving a 5 pole upgrade for that chassis would be interesting.
Well this is fantastic. It's a great project and definitely shows what can be done with these robust little motors. I am relieved that it can be done with the correct drill bit and didn't require line boring. I don't know how noisy the Spitfire was before, but did the new motor make it any quieter? As for the next project, I know it's not a glamorous choice but what about the 08 shunter for a candidate. It has a real echo chamber of a body shell and would benefit from a quieter, smoother motor. Also, being a shunter, it needs good low speed crawl speed for moving wagons around. I suppose the possibilities are endless, I even wondered about the ultra noisy turntable motor. Thanks for another inspirational video. 😊
Hello Pauline. Another person commented on how it might be better to ream or mill the motor to take new bearings but I explained I wanted to see if it was possible with more basic tools and a bit of care. It certainly is feasible to do this mod without expensive workshop machinery and is worthwhile. Thanks for watching and your kind comments. Take care, best regards to you
Hi Mr Snooze, I have been experimenting with noise reduction myself. You have answered a question I had been discussing with youtuber Paul Vozman, bearing replacement is possible. Your work is much appreciated mate. At the moment I have been applying a tiny amount of Lithium grease to the rear bearing of the motor while it is running with good results. Yours is a superior long-term solution by far. I hope to give it a crack on one of my own. Steven.
Your idea of adding the grease works, I've tried it myself. also a miniature drop of SEA 90 gear oil on the outside of the front bearing quietens things but it has to be such a small amount. Take care, thanks for watching, all the best to you
Hello Barry, you are quite right, a reamer or even milling out to receive the bearing would be good, I just wanted to demonstrate that with much care, it can be done with average tools. Thanks for watching this, Take care, all the best to you
You do make these things look easy Mr. Snooze. I can agree with Tim, an 0-4-0 would be a good test but Robin also has a good suggestion. Enjoy the TCS meeting, I shall have to pass on this one. Regards, David.
Your Modifications Definitely Improve Performance And Operation. I Would Like To See A Five Pole Motor In Anything With An 040 Pick Up And See If It Improves Current Continuity On The Diamond Crossings Please ( That's A Snooze Challenge ) 😁
Excellent video, I would like to see a 5 pole modified and then see how slow it can run. Also, where can I get hold of the bearings and spacers as I would like to give this a try.
Thanks for looking James, I agree, a five pole and some slow running will be included I think. I have used @PSR Pendle Slot Racing, a good place to start. Also Staffs Slot Cars. Take care, all the best to you
Very interesting as always. I was working with a 1962 Triang Princess yesterday and bearing end play was definitely an issue. I think putting in bearings as you've done is beyond my ability; not sure me holding the plates in a vice and using the old B&D drill will quite get me there! My vote would go for a Princess or Britannia but interested in anything really. Best wishes.
I hope it's a nice vintage Black and Decker, I find either moving the worm up a bit or adding an extra spacer behind the worm makes using the original front bearing the best place to control end float on a standard X04, you can usually eliminate it but it can be a fiddle. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Thanks! I have succeeded in removing the end play. Used a vice and gently squeezed (after removing the armature and front bearing from the motor), then backed off just a little with a small puller I have for the worm.
Hello Matthew, the front bearing is a 3mm x 6mm single flange with a 3mm to 3/32 adapter and the rear bearing is a 3/32 x 3/16 imperial unit. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
Good engineering skills there Mr Snooze, well done. I was curious whether the small bush you used with the front bearing might short out against the edge of the commutator once the motor beds in - is there already some insulation there to prevent this? Initial thoughts on which loco to try were that the improvement might be most noticeable on an older model like a Princess, but then I thought that having more complex valve gear, as fitted on later locos, would give a more demanding test. Whatever you decide it will be worth watching! Thanks. Mike edited to add: This is also a testament to the design of the X03 / X04 that they can be 'upgraded' - I'm not sure if anything similar would be possible with the modern chinese 'can' motors!
Hello Mike, thanks for watching. The little brass bush is similar in size to the original spacer Tri-ang themselves used next to the commutator. I cant see it causing any issues but i will definitely keep an eye on it now you have raised it. These original motors are so well made but it is fun trying to improve them a bit. Take care, all the best to you
My trusty 47606 has an Airfix 1001 in it. One of the best mods I ever did as a teenager. She was my 6th birthday present in August 1970. Remotored around 1980 and still running beautifully. So I’d like to see yours with the 1001. 47606 is still fast asleep in her box in the cellar waiting for retirement 😉 BTW any plans in the near future to finish that hump yard ?
It is an excellent motor the 1001. I hope you still have yours. I do need to get on with more trackwork, it's just finding the time to fix my plating plant. I'm sure I'll get back to it, its on my list. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze yes 47606 is asleep in her box waiting for me to retire and build a new layout to run on 😂 Love a Triang Jinty! She was looking a bit rough transfer wise in the early eighties so as well as her new motor she got a coat of unlined gloss black, late BR emblem, wire handrails, guitar string vacuum pipes, real SVR coal in the bunker (from the yard at Bridgenorth), and a « compensated » chassis - an article in Railway Modeller described a primitive compensation method for Triang six coupled locos, basically you just make two cuts with a hacksaw through the bottom of the chassis down to the front axle holes. So the front axle has a degree of float. It actually works very well. Given how well your track is laid though it’s clearly unnecessary for your locos. I’ve never seen one hesitate on your videos. It was very useful for me on my Super4 layout of the time!
Hello, my two turntables use a slightly different motor, an X05 but I bet if I put these ball races in it would definitely be quieter. That's a good idea of yours. Best regards to you
I build slot cars from vintage parts and I have a lot of old open frame motors of all makes and it's great fun swapping armatures and modifying them to go faster or run smoother. A lot of the time it doesn't really make that much difference but it's great fun and you do end up with something unique at the end of the day.
I agree, It's part of the fun experimenting with these older motors. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Hi, great video, always nice to see a turntable or 2, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching this, I hope you might find some of the other videos on the channel of interest. Take care, all the best to you
Great fun to watch
Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoy the future content. All the best to you
Morning Mr Snooze, great work with the ball races, give that a try in a 2.6.2 tank locomotive R59.
Take care.
Oscar
Hello Oscar, the R.59 is a great idea, I shall definitely get around to one of those with the upgraded motor. Best regards to you
That is absolutely brilliant, I love watching you reinvent the X04 and what you done with it, I imagine the bearings have reduced the current draw too! I'd love to see a bearing modded 5 pole put into a Triang Class 08 and a bit of a shunting test if possible
A shunting test, an excellent idea, once the Hump Shunting area is up and running I shall definitely sort an 08. Take care, all the best to you
Nice job.
The Spitfire with her refurbished X.03 motor certainly runs smoothly.
The slow crawl when she started up was lovely to see.
Well done.
Mon from Monsville Railways.
Thanks for watching Mon, there is no doubt that the slow speed performance is better. It will be even smoother with a 5 pole. Best regards to you
What a pudding and the proof is certainly in it! The 5 pole is a must me thinks. All the best, Andy.
Thanks Andy, I think it has to be a five pole so I will search for an armature. Thanks for looking, all the best to you
Excellent work on the motors! Beautiful Spitfire :)
Thanks for looking, I hope all is well with you after your move. Take care, all the best to you
Great modification. I think the five pole should be next with your poorest runner so you can do a before and after to see how much an improvement it makes.
A great idea, I have a rough R.59 somewhere, could be a good one to try. All the best to you
Why is it not possible to buy new motors for these things? Very frustrating... How hard would it be to convert to something readily available now? I.e the cheapy stuff from china? That would be an interesting idea 💡
Always great to see new ways to improve the old motors, for a bit of fun I down loaded a decibel meter on my phone a before and after test when servicing. To see a britannia pulling a large rake of coaches would be great. All the best.
I might have a play with a decibel app Bob, a great suggestion. I think the Britannia sounds a good idea. Best regards to you
thanks for sharing this fascinating upgrade. Was always a mystery why some Triang Hornby locomotives ran more noisily , even new out of the box with lubrication.
Thanks for looking, I have always wondered about the tolerances in the bearings, some are nice and have hardly any play and some are awful. I think luck plays a part. Like you say some were definitely noisy from new. All the best to you
Let's upgrade a 5 pole motor.
Was it yourself or Oscar who mentioned the hole in the magnets being used for, "tuning" purposes? One of you was going to do an experimental Vid?
Made me smile, the Locos running in the background while I'm doing ??? & me! relaxing somehow😁 I've got gaps in my modern trackwork so I get the "clickety clack", even in the middle of one 4th Rad. curved section🤷♂👍👍
Its very important to get some clickety click, you know where things are without looking. Take care, all the best to you
Another excellent and informative video.. I live in Tasmania, and find it hard to believe some of the items that you find to work with? Ball race bearings in that small size? Unbelievable??
It must be wonderful to be able to find such things in the first place.. I will see if I can find some drill bits in such precise sizes, but doubt it will be possible locally?
Amazing work... Thank you for sharing..
Hello Robin, I find all these little parts are mail order, sometimes even from China. I find I spend quite some time sourcing parts by looking on the internet. There are no shops local to me with specialist items, Our last electronics shop 'Maplin' shut a while ago too so without the computer I'd be lost. All the best to you in Tasmania
Amazing! I'm convinced. Really need you to think about the wear that occurs in the axle bearings of EMU/DMU bogies, this results in rocking which breaks contact.
I'll have to add this item to my list, I'm sure something could be done with them. Thanks for watching, best regards to you
Great video got a beaten up X04 motor so I may give it a try myself one day when I find myself a remagnetiser.
I think what would be a cool project for the future depending on what you have would be to upgrade the Hornby Dublo 2 rail/Wrenn R1 and N2 chassis with a five pole armature and ballraces like what you have done with the X04.
Hello Daniel, thanks for watching, your upgrade idea is something I shall definitely think about. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze A few of the later Wrenn models had 5 pole upgrades with the exception of the R1/N2 chassis I think so doing something involving a 5 pole upgrade for that chassis would be interesting.
Very impressive!
That is kind of you to say Andrew. thanks for watching this, all the best to you
Well this is fantastic. It's a great project and definitely shows what can be done with these robust little motors. I am relieved that it can be done with the correct drill bit and didn't require line boring. I don't know how noisy the Spitfire was before, but did the new motor make it any quieter? As for the next project, I know it's not a glamorous choice but what about the 08 shunter for a candidate. It has a real echo chamber of a body shell and would benefit from a quieter, smoother motor. Also, being a shunter, it needs good low speed crawl speed for moving wagons around. I suppose the possibilities are endless, I even wondered about the ultra noisy turntable motor. Thanks for another inspirational video. 😊
Hello Pauline. Another person commented on how it might be better to ream or mill the motor to take new bearings but I explained I wanted to see if it was possible with more basic tools and a bit of care. It certainly is feasible to do this mod without expensive workshop machinery and is worthwhile. Thanks for watching and your kind comments. Take care, best regards to you
Hi Mr Snooze, I have been experimenting with noise reduction myself. You have answered a question I had been discussing with youtuber Paul Vozman, bearing replacement is possible. Your work is much appreciated mate. At the moment I have been applying a tiny amount of Lithium grease to the rear bearing of the motor while it is running with good results. Yours is a superior long-term solution by far. I hope to give it a crack on one of my own. Steven.
Your idea of adding the grease works, I've tried it myself. also a miniature drop of SEA 90 gear oil on the outside of the front bearing quietens things but it has to be such a small amount. Take care, thanks for watching, all the best to you
Perhaps you could try a reamer rather than drill bit 🤔 good mod 👍
Hello Barry, you are quite right, a reamer or even milling out to receive the bearing would be good, I just wanted to demonstrate that with much care, it can be done with average tools. Thanks for watching this, Take care, all the best to you
You do make these things look easy Mr. Snooze. I can agree with Tim, an 0-4-0 would be a good test but Robin also has a good suggestion. Enjoy the TCS meeting, I shall have to pass on this one. Regards, David.
Hello David, Hopefully you will be over for another TCS soon, I like the 0-4-0 but that wheel spacing... Take care, all the best to you
Your Modifications Definitely Improve Performance And Operation. I Would Like To See A Five Pole Motor In Anything With An 040 Pick Up And See If It Improves Current Continuity On The Diamond Crossings Please ( That's A Snooze Challenge ) 😁
That sounds like a tricky challenge Tim, am I allowed to add an extra set of wheels somewhere 😉, best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Yes. Could You Fit A Flywheel On The Armature ?
Excellent video, I would like to see a 5 pole modified and then see how slow it can run. Also, where can I get hold of the bearings and spacers as I would like to give this a try.
Thanks for looking James, I agree, a five pole and some slow running will be included I think. I have used @PSR Pendle Slot Racing, a good place to start. Also Staffs Slot Cars. Take care, all the best to you
Very interesting as always. I was working with a 1962 Triang Princess yesterday and bearing end play was definitely an issue. I think putting in bearings as you've done is beyond my ability; not sure me holding the plates in a vice and using the old B&D drill will quite get me there! My vote would go for a Princess or Britannia but interested in anything really. Best wishes.
I hope it's a nice vintage Black and Decker, I find either moving the worm up a bit or adding an extra spacer behind the worm makes using the original front bearing the best place to control end float on a standard X04, you can usually eliminate it but it can be a fiddle. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Thanks! I have succeeded in removing the end play. Used a vice and gently squeezed (after removing the armature and front bearing from the motor), then backed off just a little with a small puller I have for the worm.
Great video as per usual. What size ball race bearings did you use? I have a few noisy triangs I'd like to improve.
Hello Matthew, the front bearing is a 3mm x 6mm single flange with a 3mm to 3/32 adapter and the rear bearing is a 3/32 x 3/16 imperial unit. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
Good engineering skills there Mr Snooze, well done. I was curious whether the small bush you used with the front bearing might short out against the edge of the commutator once the motor beds in - is there already some insulation there to prevent this? Initial thoughts on which loco to try were that the improvement might be most noticeable on an older model like a Princess, but then I thought that having more complex valve gear, as fitted on later locos, would give a more demanding test. Whatever you decide it will be worth watching! Thanks. Mike edited to add: This is also a testament to the design of the X03 / X04 that they can be 'upgraded' - I'm not sure if anything similar would be possible with the modern chinese 'can' motors!
Hello Mike, thanks for watching. The little brass bush is similar in size to the original spacer Tri-ang themselves used next to the commutator. I cant see it causing any issues but i will definitely keep an eye on it now you have raised it. These original motors are so well made but it is fun trying to improve them a bit. Take care, all the best to you
My trusty 47606 has an Airfix 1001 in it. One of the best mods I ever did as a teenager. She was my 6th birthday present in August 1970. Remotored around 1980 and still running beautifully. So I’d like to see yours with the 1001. 47606 is still fast asleep in her box in the cellar waiting for retirement 😉
BTW any plans in the near future to finish that hump yard ?
It is an excellent motor the 1001. I hope you still have yours. I do need to get on with more trackwork, it's just finding the time to fix my plating plant. I'm sure I'll get back to it, its on my list. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze yes 47606 is asleep in her box waiting for me to retire and build a new layout to run on 😂
Love a Triang Jinty! She was looking a bit rough transfer wise in the early eighties so as well as her new motor she got a coat of unlined gloss black, late BR emblem, wire handrails, guitar string vacuum pipes, real SVR coal in the bunker (from the yard at Bridgenorth), and a « compensated » chassis - an article in Railway Modeller described a primitive compensation method for Triang six coupled locos, basically you just make two cuts with a hacksaw through the bottom of the chassis down to the front axle holes. So the front axle has a degree of float. It actually works very well. Given how well your track is laid though it’s clearly unnecessary for your locos. I’ve never seen one hesitate on your videos. It was very useful for me on my Super4 layout of the time!
Hi Mr Snooze. I wonder if this method could be used to make the X04 powered turntable run a bit quieter?
Hello, my two turntables use a slightly different motor, an X05 but I bet if I put these ball races in it would definitely be quieter. That's a good idea of yours. Best regards to you
How did you press in the front bearing?
I used some spacers and a small vice. It pressed in snug up to the flange. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
@@MrSnooze Thanks. Any chance of demonstrating it in a future video?
@@roger1818 I will be coming back to these modifications sometine in the future so will show some bearing fitting.
@@MrSnooze Also, how did you remagnetize the magnet?
I use a remagnetiser from Ronald Dodd. All the best to you
LIKE TO SEE A FIVE POLE WITH BEARINGS IN A DOCK SHUNTER OR A PRINCESS 😁
A Princess sounds a good option, thanks for watching, all the best to you