Lantern Chuck - loud machining noises, watch quiet version
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- The sound mix on this went wrong. New and improved version is at • Lantern Chuck machinin...
I need to make a large number of different custom screws and bolts, so I thought I'd have a go at making a big Lantern Chuck. ** WARNING - LOUD MACHINING NOISES ** Sorry I'm rubbish at using PowerDirector so the sound balance is a bit wild. Earphone users take care please.
The tool needs to handle 8mm stainless cap bolts as well as the M3 and M4 screws and bolts. I took inspiration from a video by Shelly142 in 2017 at homemadetools.net, which used a magnetic bit-holder that takes 1/4 inch screwdriver bits. Huge thanks to Shelly142 for the idea.
The other spur to action was that Emma from Emma's Spareroom Machineshop runs an annual Tool Fest, with this year's tag being #toolfest2021. Makers make a tool and share the video with a common hashtag. It's very jolly.
I was suffering from The Big Sad too much, grieving for Caroline, my wife of 34 years, who died in June 2021, so I missed the deadline of course.
Anyway, my OTHER excuse is that the Chihuahuas ate my homework. Honest...
Links:
Drawings of the two main parts www.g4dbn.uk/?p...
sorry they are not complete, but there's a lot of flexibility in the design
** IMPORTANT NOTICE - GLOVE SAFETY ISSUES **
Please be aware that OSHA and other bodies mandate NEVER wearing gloves when using rotating machinery. I wear flimsy nitrile gloves to control raging dermatitis and because I understand and accept the small but finite risk of additional serious injury from wearing those gloves and from being careless. My shop, my rules, my life, my risk appetite. Please don't tell me I'm taking unwarranted risks. I'm taking a very carefully calculated risk between a 100% certain outcome of painful dermatitis and a near-zero likelihood but huge impact of an accident caused by wearing gloves and the rather higher, but still tiny risk of me doing something careless and the resulting injury being worse than if I had bare hands. I have no dependants and no life insurance, no employer or insurance company who needs to avoid legal or regulatory action. I see all of the anecdotal reports and a few horrific cases, and I am entirely aware of the potential impact. I do real risk mitigation and impact analysis professionally and I would genuinely be interested in statistics and research papers to help evaluate the elevated risk level I am accepting with my potentially inappropriate risk appetite. I'm not some sort of pro-glove fanatical evangelist, I just use them sometimes with cutting fluids and some metal types containing exotics or fine sharp particles.
** DO NOT COPY ME **
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Sorry for your loss and may you live in peace……hardworking gentleman like this dont get the recognition they deserve so my hats off to you sir…..💪🏻
Machining and ham radio experimentation, and all of the friends I have from those activities, have been an enormous help following Caroline's death. We'd been together for 37 years so it is going to take time to adjust to my new situation. I have good days and bad weeks, but the number of good days is increasing and the number of bad weeks is reducing.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves glad to hear it stay strong and carry on fighting the good fight again much respect for you and appreciation….👍🏻💪🏻
New version of this at ruclips.net/video/u5G0XpiWIR4/видео.html
I've remixed the audio and replaced all of the nasty noisy sped-up bits with rainforest sounds. It's a lot easier on the ears now!
Sorry for all of the aural pain. Hope it's an improvement. Also includes Extra Content - well, me ranting about Moaning Minnies anyway
Beautiful machining and great detail, thanks!!! Sorry for your loss sir, prayers & blessings going out to you and your family!
Oh man, sorry for your loss. Great work!
Sorry for your loss, great video, great tool!
Thanks Chui, things are getting better. Very slowly, but definitely getting better every day
Wonderful work, thanks for taking me along for the ride mate. Sad for your loss, only two things I can pass along. One .. Be pleased you had the opportunity to love, and be loved in return. Two .. Even true love always ends in saying good bye … it’s never easy but always inevitable. Be strong as she would surely have wanted for you. Stop the sorrow and begin to enjoy the time you have left, use it to celebrate life for both of you. ✌️❤️
Good message. I am of the opinion that one of a man’s best accomplishments is to receive and be worthy of the love of a good woman.
Thanks very much, I've had brilliant support from my ham radio and machining friends, many of whom have been through this. We were together for thirty-seven years. Caroline had an extraordinarily full life, I was husband #3. She touched so many lives, and helped a lot of Leatherback Turtles to hatch and get to the ocean safely in Trinidad and Costa Rica, and spent time in the upper Amazon in Peru. She was descended from one of the original settlers on Bermuda in 1612. I'm from a long line of carters and ditch diggers in the Lincolnshire Fens. Probably explains a lot...
Seconded, and an excellent sentiment. Time will help, probably won't heal, but life seems less bleak every day now. Except Mondays. Mondays are grim. I have to work at the Day Job on Mondays. Bad times....
@@MachiningandMicrowaves This too will pass, my brother,,,,And trust me. You will be together again on the other side.....You can take that to the back and get a loan on it,,,,,FACT!
@@mathewmolk2089 The frequency of the bad days is falling and there are more good days now. I'll be fine eventually
"Self knowledge is a marvelous thing" OMG... BEST.LINE.EVER
Heh heh... See also: Why Neil's workbench is tiny. So he can't pile things up on it.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Well, you do have chihuahuas.... so you can't be all bad, mate.
That line is why I subbed.
I was impressed with first your craftsmanship, but also your Video editing, the clear concise commentary, interjected with some well placed humour. 👍
Cheers Ian, if I ever get the hang of controlling the focus on this highly annoying Sony ZV-1 (second-worst camera I ever owned from a usability perspective) then folks might be able to see what's going on. Except that they'll be deafened by my hopeless sound editing. I'm a rank beginner at just about everything. Granting myself permission to fail horribly is the secret.
Fantastic video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Sam, I've been using that lantern chuck today to make some brass-tipped stainless clamp screws for a lathe headstock spider. I hope to have time to post a video of that at some point
I just drilled and tapped 52 holes m5 in 10mm thick stainless and cut down the same amounts of bolts.I cheat and gripped the bolt head in a cordless drill and finished the cut ends nicely with an angle grinder with a fine flap disc. Just another night in the maintenance department in our chocolate factory!
Excellent! Cool job too.
But he needed a reason to make this video.
@@solasauto yes but I am sick of the sight of it sometimes. Once we overfilled a large tank and spilled 300 kg all oner the floor. !
Thoughts are with you. Great video and project! Thank you for your efforts on this, I have another on my to do list now!
I have a VERY long list of projects from watching machining channels. Next is a rotating tailstock chuck I think. Everyone seems to be making those. I have a very specific task that could use one right now!
Good Approach to a fiddly problem.
Blessings of peace and comfort to you.
Now that's some nice thumbs....nice thumbs there chappy!!
"Thumbs" is a very comedic word, somehow. Great etymology too www.etymonline.com/word/thumb from "Big Finger", similar to "Big Toe".
Peaceful machining and learning
The learning is the best bit for me. Doing things because they are difficult is somehow more rewarding. Doing vector calculus or the S-parameter analysis and stability criteria for a gigahertz low noise amplifier is simple in comparison with getting a good looking TIG bead or a mirror finish on a 5 inch wide C101 copper heatspreader that just wants to gall and grab and chatter
That was some seriously nice work there. I really enjoyed the content.
Very nice work. Add another project to the never ending list!
Always more projects. Life is over-full of projects. Better than being empty and boring though.
Excellent. Very informative 👍👍👍Thanks for sharing
Great Job.. Love the use of a hex bit what a fantastic idea. I am sure will give you years of use.
Sorry for your loss.
I wish I could remember who had the idea in the first place, I saw a YT video (I think) a few months ago where someone did this, unless it was a dream... It struck me as a cool solution, although I don't recall how they fixed the socket in place, so I just thought of an adjustable solution. It's been very useful so far, but now I need a version for those M1.6 and M2 and other screws under 2.5 mm or smaller than 4-40 UNC, but I have lots of other machining jobs to finish first
sorry for your loss. loved the video, i am inspired to make one of these for the same reason you have. brilliant.
I'm in a position of great privilege because I don't get paid for machining, so I can do things that are just interesting to me and I don't have to care about it making economic sense. Time that I invest in making things is not a cost to me, the act of making things is something that I do for enjoyment as an action in itself. I think it's important that hobby machinists like me realise just how much of a privilege is is to be able to do this for fun and not have to care about the grubby details of efficiency, speed, value engineering or financial targets. If I want to make 80 screws with a domed and polished end to the threaded shank to give added visual delight to a project, I can just do it and not have to justify that design decision to anyone. In another life, I'm a basketmaker. Making a willow basket is a very labour-intensive process and impossible to justify on cost grounds, but I do it anyway, again because of the privileged economic position I'm in with having a part time job that pays the bills and the cost of my hobbies. An awful lot of people don't have that level of privilege and freedom to make the choices that I do.
Thanks a lot for sharing this, I'm sorry for your loss, you will make it through. You reminded me of something I've forgotten about, the chuck, I've got one on my watchmaker's lathe, but could well use one pretty much exactly like the one you made, I do a lot of screws as well, and hate using plates and such. That's some good looking brass and steel, thanks again.
Originally I was going to make the lantern nut from leaded mild steel and cold blue it, but I found that big brass bar with a spigot the right size already turned and couldn't find my big pinch knurl. Serendipity is nice sometimes.
just found your channel. Nice vids. thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! So many ideas, so little time to film them!
Great work & an enjoyable video to watch.
It was fun to make, and I get to have a really useful tool. Double win!
Great work!
Thanks for sharing❤️
Thanks for watching!
thats very nicely done
Thanks Emma, next one will be much better, and one day I might get the sound levels right...
😁 Wasn't two minutes into the video when I decided I had to subscribe. Your sense of humor just got me! Not to mention a very nifty and well-done project. Wish I'd had access to a mill and lathe, and the training to use them properly, when I was doing microwave stuff, back in the late 80's and through most of the 90's. I didn't get into HAM radio only because I didn't need another expensive hobby, as I already had too many. Wound up dropping a number of them once the 2nd kid arrived, so when the kids grew up a bit, and my life kinda fell apart for a bit, I bought a cheap chinese mini-lathe late in the first decade of the new century. Been going to school very part-time to learn what I should have pursued right out of high school, when I took my first class in machining. And finally have some idea of what I'm doing, and the beginnings of a shop. Nothing as big as your machines, though. Desktop and benchtop stuff, mostly. And I was sorry to hear of your sorrow. SWMBO here has been chronically ill for over 20 years, and expecting not to be here much longer for much of that time. Trying to take care of her keeps me from concentrating on the shop, and I know someday I'll lose her. If she doesn't lose me first. I'm trying to hang on for her, and have a bit of shop time now and then, too. Go forth and machine and microwave, and keep yourself busy and occupied until it's your turn to lie down and rest. I was concerned about the glove were, too, but you sound like a grownup, capable of making your own decisions, and evaluating the risks and benefits. Got skin problems of my own, and may one day have to do as you do. God bless you and keep you in the meantime! Bill
Hi Bill, well Caroline was much older than me, so statistically it was likely that she'd be first to go, plus we had plenty of warning and time to plan and adapt. She lived long enough to get to know her first great-granddaughter, which is a privilege not granted to many people. Caroline's father was Bermudian and C had Bermudian status. The family was descended from one of the first settlers on the island after the shipwreck of the Sea Venture in 1608 on the way to the Jamestown settlement and the near-miracle of the Deliverance being built and sailed onwards in 1610. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_Venture In 1612, her ancestor Captain Smith was one of the pioneer settlers on the island. As a little girl, she lived in Fayoum, Egypt in the late 1930s and after her father was called up to fight in the Western Desert in 1941, her mother had to evacuate alone from Alexandria, down via Kenya and across Africa to join a convoy back up the Atlantic to Liverpool UK. I only found out about that bit of her history while we were watching Bogart in "Casablanca" and she said "it wasn't like that when I was there in '42". We'd been married 15 years at that point. Life is short, but heavens, Caroline lived hers to the full after that start.
Neil
Very nice!
Love the humor. But you forgot to check the pointless scratch pass with your pitch gauge..
Aaaargh! I am SUCH a failure at pointless scratch passes when single-pointing. Of course, nobody knows whether I did a sneaky edit and actually checked it with a gauge and loupe, or a travelling microscope indeed.
Fantastic job dear man:))
Great video man, keep'um coming..
Thanks! My mother watches these to keep up with what her terrible son does in his spare time (Hi mum!)
@@MachiningandMicrowaves he could be doing alot worse things mom, lol, go easy on him..
Beautiful little tool, I hope you record making the smaller ones because I could use one that does BA sizes!
I need one that can do M2 and M1.6 screws, so watch this space for updates!
This is brilliant, inspiring and worth over doing. Got some drop to use and single pointing to learn. Also a Joe Pie student.
Joe's service to know-nothing amateurs like me is immense, although I do sometimes catch myself saying "aight" in that splendid way he does.
Great job, love the humour. Could you use your chamfer tool to also face the screws off to length? Subscribed.
The original task this was made for uses a ground carbide form tool to cut a domed end on the threaded shaft at the finished length in a single operation. If I needed a flat end with chamfered corners, the end-on chamfer tool would certainly work as you suggest. Thanks for subscribing!
I enjoyed watching that! You struck a nice blend of humour, good photography and a beautiful result.
I hope you get a lot more subscribers! 👍🛎🙂
Glad you enjoyed it!
Having recently started into the world of BA screws in the smaller sizes . this is a great tool with many possibilities as to small socket drives adaptors etc. Sadly I am too busy to enter toolfest this year but I thank you for sharing this interesting tool and the concept has so many possibilities. Cheers Ade.
As well as the classic hand-held chucks such as the Horotec, www.esslinger.com/horotec-screw-holding-lantern-chuck/ there are lots of nifty designs. Chris from Clickspring has a nice take on this which he adapted from John Wilding's book "Using the Small Lathe" www.clickspringprojects.com/screwhead-holding-tool.html I guess there are dozens of different approaches. Mine was to solve a very specific application, where I need hex dome-headed M5 screws with the end of the threaded shaft rounded with a form tool then polished. Simply slitting a hex nut and clamping it into a 3-jaw lathe chuck works fine for applications not needing perfect concentricity
Nice job good humour, it's a yes from me 👍
304 stainless is something I try to avoid unless it's specified for the work. Get some 415, 416 or thereabouts free machining stainless for the home shop and you'll never look back. It's a treat to turn or thread and you don't get those razor blade bird's nests of chips.
Good idea. I had a lot of 304 that I bought a few years ago, it's almost used up now, so I'll see what my suppliers can come up with that is free machining. Thanks for the tip
It's certainly much more pleasant using leaded mild steel and Tellurium or Sulphur Copper than the raw versions.
Great job
Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Dykem is nice for the viewers so they can see the thread cutting. The pointless scratch pass is really pointless if you are making a pointless tool in your garage, but if the threading is the final operation on a 5000.00 hydraulic cylinder it becomes a bit less pointless. When I need to cut off a bolt, I just run a couple nuts on it, grip the nuts in the chuck and cut off the excess.
Heh heh, yes indeed. It's a bit of a running joke I have with myself about how I should be super-confident that I've got the levers on the lathe in the right place so a scratch pass is entirely unnecessary, except I still do one just to be 100% certain that I'm 100% correct! Perhaps I just like the smell of Dykem?
for your chamfer tool order yourself another of those tools cut both shanks and mount them back 2 back and you got 1 holder being able to do both.
@@cornnatron3030 Good solution! I have a spare that's mounted the other way round, so I can save a holder. Nice, thanks for the suggestion
Personally the thread on the chuck is way to fine. A nice coarse thread is quicker to tighten and undo. this makes a big difference on repetitive tasks.
Excellent point. My excuse is that I had the M22 x 1.0 tap, and nothing else with a coarser thread over 16mm, so would have had to single-point the inside thread as well. In practice, I spin the lathe to loosen and tighten the thing, so it doesn't take much extra time. Also I think I might not get away with just the threads for alignment when using a coarser pitch. For the smaller version, I have plenty of taps so I can choose something more appropriate. I guess there is an argument though that single-pointing the thread or using a thread mill in my toolpost spindle would give better concentricity. For the smaller sizes, I don't think this design is viable because of the concentricity issue with the thread, but it's easy enough to make one and try it using a machined blank screw and then check the runout. A version with a different locking mechanism would probably make sense. Fitting the collet into the body, with a long opening, then a locking collar and sliding internal anvil like a firing pin might be good. This was a quick job which I did to help work through my grief after my wife's death, and it was made with whatever I could find in the bar ends bin, late at night, with minimal design effort. It's worked perfectly for the job for which it was created, and I had a lot of fun making it in my horribly dangerous, messy and unprofessional way!
Excellent work! I'm going to have to add one of these to my project list, as I need a lot of custom length screws as well!
Have you considered threading the collets? It might help with rigidity, and the variance in od from one screw to the next.
For my specific application it wasn't necessary, but there are many different options that I can imagine. If I was cutting a small thread on the end of a bolt where concentricity of the two threads was important, or perhaps drilling and tapping a hole in the end of a bolt for some reason, it might be useful to thread a collet for that job., but it might be a little tricky to keep the thread engaged with the driver bit as the thing is tightened. I machined some short M14 bolts last week using a length of 25 mm steel bar tapped M14 then split along one side and most of the way through the other. With that clamped in a 3-jaw, I could machine the end of the bolt, but it would perhaps be safer with a tool in the rear toolpost and running the lathe in reverse, then there is no risk of the bolt unscrewing. Lots of options to choose from
Here's another idea: I can't show a graphic so I have to ask you to visualize what I'm describing. For threads up to M5 or 10-32 (U.S.A.) take a 1/2 inch diameter piece of brass about 5/8 of an inch long. Drill and thread it to the size screw you wish to modify. Now, put an O-Ring groove in the outside diameter close to one end capable of burying a rubber O-Ring which is compressing upon the bottom of the groove completely. Next, imagine you are looking at the round face of the part. You want to cut a pie shaped wedge out of it equal to about 1/3 of the face of the part using a slitting saw.
Now put the pieces together again with an O-Ring in the groove. The O-Ring keeps the pieces together as one unit. The amount of space created by the slitting saw causes the pie shaped wedge to intrude into the area of the tapped hole. If it were once again solid at this point one would be unable to screw in a screw, but the O-Ring allows the tapped hole to expand and thus you can screw in the screw you want to cut with only slight friction due to the compression of the O-Ring. So the idea is to screw in the screw from the back (similar to what is shown in the video). When you put this assembly into a collet and tighten down the pie shaped wedge clamps upon the screw and holds it fast.
Now, if you couple this with a collet stop you can cut screws off, or modify the end as the case may be, with repeatable accuracy. Obviously you would scale everything up for larger screws, but you can use the same sized material (diameter) for several different size screws. You can make a set or, because it is so simple to make, make one on the fly as needed.
I just wanted to add: I said to make it from brass, but aluminum would do. I would avoid steel only because it will be harder to cut the wedge out with a thin slitting saw. (Thinner is better.)
I'm trying to visualise this setup, I'll need another coffee and a pencil I think. It certainly sounds intriguing
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Just think of it as a solid cylinder with an O-ring cut on the outside diameter close to one end. Now cut a pie shaped wedge out of the cylinder.
If the thread is real tiny you most likely could just screw into the cylinder and reverse turn it with the tool upside down. Nice looking tool and it will most likely do a great job.
Machining and microwaves sorry for your loss. My stupid question though is What is this fancy tool and how does it work. I've always been interested in lathes work but never got around to doing anything with them. I'm a half as s welder for about 40years now ,love watching you machinist do your thing. Do you have a video that shows this tool in action? Thanks
It's a large version of a tool used by watchmakers to make and trim tiny screws. I needed about 80 M5 stainless steel cap-screws of a very precise length, and with a domed, polished end to the threaded shaft. This tool gives me a way to hold a cap-screw at a precise offset in my lathe and use a curved form tool to remove the excess length of thread and form the dome, then polish the end. The collet holds the screw very firmly and keeps it concentric to the lathe axis. Sadly, no video of it being used, but it will probably be featured when I next make some resonant microwave tuned cavities and need to machine the ends of the tuning screws. Using the screwdriver bits means I can do operations on screws with any type of head and lock them against rotation, Torx/hex/Philips/Pozi/Slotted. That isn't a problem for very small screws under 2mm, where a flat-ended pressure plate or rod is used
Machining thank you for reply. I subscribe d to your channel. You have quite the talent,I'm very impressed. Thanks again. Peace
Camera, or not, Good vid.
Heh heh, I'm just sad that the lens and user interface are terrible. I've almost managed to tame the awful focus control but the lens just can't handle high contrast lighting or shiny metal. Even my dreadful Google phone works better, but can't do the HD.
What kind of tap was used at 19:40? Maybe it's just an illusion, but it sure seems like the first few threads are a much finer thread than further up the tap!
Very well spotted! It's a YG-1 spiral point tap with alternate threads removed, really intended for fast threading of aluminium. Works very well on C109 and C111 copper and titanium too. Also fine on stainless it seems. Like this one but uncoated I think: www.cutwel.co.uk/threading/machine-taps/machine-taps-for-aluminium-non-ferrous/aluminium-aluminium-alloy-metric-coarse-machine-taps/m4-x-0-7mm-metric-coarse-hss-5percent-cobalt-spiral-point-tialn-coated-non-ferrous-machine-tap-e24-25m-az-txc-series-ufs-e24m4az-txc
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Thanks for that info!! It seems "interrupted pitch" or "interrupted thread" taps are almost non-existent in the States. Practically the only reference I can find to taps with interrupted threads is for pipe taps. Very interesting for sure!
Sorry for your loss. Nice video . One can always learn new tricks. Is there a drawing you can post. I would like to make one and maybe some other machinist. Thanks
Hi James, I'll need to change some of the dimensions on the drawing to match the actual size. I think the brass collar could be better if is was 10mm longer and the openings were 10mm longer, but then it makes holding the collar for machining more difficult. I'll post a link to the drawing when I get a chance to make the changes.
Drawings are on my website at www.g4dbn.uk/?p=1727
The body is missing the M6 (or 1/4 UNC) threaded hole that carries the two grubscrews, one to set the position, the other machined with a long point to lock the first one in place. Also missing the M5 (or 3/16 UNC) tapped hole for the dog-point grubscrew (set-screw) and the detail of the milled slot in the side of the hex socket. Again, totally non-critical dimensions so long as the hex socket is a good fit in the hope in the body so it is held concentric.
Anything keeping the brass part from unscrewing or is it just threaded the opposite way it rotates?
There shouldn't be any torque on it as the screw is locked by the bit in the magnetic socket, but you are right, any such force would tend to tighten the lantern section anyway. The collet is not locked in place, so it would be very hard to find a failure mode, even if I ran the lathe in reverse and the screw was fixed with a flat faced bit. Good thought though. If it did unscrew after being run in reverse for some reason, it would make a mess of the cutting tool and toolpost, so perhaps it's good it is made of brass!
SORRY, WHAT IS THE FINISHED LANTERN CHUCK USE FOR ?
When I need ten screws of bolts machining to a precise length, perhaps with a point or a hole, or a brass insert, I can fix the screw into a suitable collet, tighten the brass lantern nut and guarantee that the end of the screw is precisely positioned in the Y axis and also concentric with the lathe spindle. Watchmakers use tiny versions to make the unbelievably-small screws used in watches. Anything larger than 10 mm thread can usually be gripped in a collet chuck. This one is designed for M2.5 though to M8 (or Imperial equivalent). I need to use it soon to make a brass-tipped clamping nut, so it will star in an upcoming video.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Useful Tools.
So sorry to hear of your loss mate. There are no words. So many loved ones have left us too soon these last few months. The blame is all too often laid at the thing THEY claim came out of China, but three members of my family, a very close family friend and countless others locally have all gone within days, or in some cases just hours of receiving the things being sold as the solution!
During the 1970s I was lucky enough to serve an aero engineering apprenticeship at Rolls Royce. After going off to do lots of other fun things soon after, I’m now thinking of getting a lathe and a milling machine to make parts for the Japanese bikes I’m restoring.
So Thank you for sharing your work and inspiring me. You do good work.
Peace
We had plenty of notice of Caroline's illness, she had a median life expectancy of three years after diagnosis and she managed six years. She lived long enough to get to know her great-granddaughter, and died in her own bed, drug-free, with the dogs by her side, listening to Bach preludes and holding my hand. No medics, no technology. If your time is up, that's a decent way to leave the stage. So many deaths are unnecessarily over-medicalised.
Sweet, found the channel, like what I saw, subbed, and as a bonus rolled you over to 1K subs :D
Heh heh, brilliant, thanks. I was totally happy when I got to 100, so any more is a bonus. I have loads of projects that I'd love to share, but there are only so many hours in the day, so I'm aiming to do at least one video a week
Nice work
New subscriber
Cheers
Thanks Dave, I wish I had more time to make videos, but it's been fun learning how to do this RUclips thing, so I'll keep on posting when I can. I'm doing this for fun and so my mother can show her friends what her wayward son gets up to in the dark reaches of the night....
Things that scuttle about? Are you in Australia?
Definitely in East Riding of Yorkshire, UK, but the Scuttling Things don't know that.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves I thought UK scuttlers were all pretty benign. In Oz we do need to take a little care with putting our hands where we can't see what may be hiding somewhere.
@@smallcnclathes Yorkshireman living down-under since ‘68, knows when and where not to put fingers, some scuttling things are deadly.
I’m sorry, is it just me? What is this tool for? I can’t believe it’s just to hold a screw! And if it is, to do what to it
Ah, good point, I should have been a little clearer! I have to machine over a hundred hex headed stainless M5 bolts with a partial plain shank so they are all *exactly* the same length and have a radiused dome on the end of the threads. I could try to do it by drilling and tapping a steel plate, screwing perhaps ten bolts at a time into the holes, and sawing off the ends with a cutting disk or bandsaw, but then I'd have to find a way to hold them and make the ends rounded and polished. Watchmakers and modelmakers use them a lot for making tiny screws, but their lantern chucks are very very tiny. I've also used it to machine some M3 hex cap-screws to length so they can fit into 4mm deep blind holes in a 6mm part without being too short, or conversely bottoming out in the hole. Another use is to cut a point on bolts used to lock a cast-iron collar on to a steel shaft. I cut shallow holes with a 90 degree spotting drill and machine the points of the bolts to 90 degrees with a truncated point. It's possible to do that in the lathe with large hex-headed bolts, but hard with M6/M8 cap-screws to hold them even in a collet chuck. Also, it was a whole lot of fun to make, which for me, is justification enough for the time and energy I invested in it.
Ah, now it makes sense! Thanks for that. Lovely job though!
Awesome video, nice presentation, and very well executed.
Single point thread depth is something I battle with, being a self taught "hobbyist". At the 6:24 mark you mention your thread depth formula, which I'm afraid went a little too fast and a little over my head. Please would you mind sharing it in print?
The quick and dirty way isn't the proper solution, I have thread wires for that, however, if you think about a metric thread, it has a 60 degree angle, and the distance between thread peaks is the pitch, so the sloping side also has the same length as the pitch. That means the depth of the peak of the thread, it you ignore the truncated top and bottom of the thread, should be the pitch times the sine of 60 degrees (about 0.866 x 0.5 in this case). That means 0.866 mm off the diameter (my lathe dial and DRO work in diameter, not radius). I knock off a bit to account for the truncated tips of the threads - no need to consider the troughs, the cutter is already radiused. If I then cut to about 0.82 mm off the diameter, I usually get a good fit. The tool doesn't form the thread peaks in this case, so it can need a light pass with a file, but a polish with Garryflex usually suffices.
It's not really a good idea to do it this way unless you are very sure of your fits, and a proper thread mic or wires are a much better way to confirm that
the threads are OK. I have some go/no-go thread gauges that I use to confirm the fit is good. Wires are too fiddly when I'm making 50 things with M8 x 0.5mm threads like these: www.g4dbn.uk/?p=1390
Terrific work.
I am thinking Tommy gun made something like this once upon a time but changed his name (assuming I am remembering correctly)
His version had an internal screw-jack to apply pressure to the screw. Neat because there is no chance of runout from having the collet alignment reliant on a thread. His new channel is Tom Make Here. I'll keep searching for the original source of the magnetic bit idea so I can give credit.
My next project?
Nice piece of work - shortening hex BA sizes is a pain in the butt. You have a similar lathe and setup as mine - I splashed out on a 5C collet setup and have not looked back. GU4XEA
I keep getting to the point where I think I need a 5C collet set, but then I lose the urge to spend. If ER40s had a viable depth stop that doesn't move when the collet is tightened, I wouldn't need to go 5C. I must have a look for a reliable solution, perhaps something with a strong spring to keep a plate pressed to the read of the collet body, so it is always in contact and moves as the collet is tightened. Oh dear, ANOTHER project...
hello there, its a very nice idea that i wish i knew sooner XD , did you work as a mashinist ? or is it self thought ? nontheless great editing and awsome content :D
i subbed 🤝
sorry for the bad grammatic and writing 😅
greetings from germany
sorry i need to rant about the other comments you dont need to read this ,
im a learnd cnc mechanic (turning,milling,gear-milling, hohning,grinding etc.) and i can assure you 100000% the other "mashinists" are overly sensitive nitrile will cut so easy , if its a heavy duty super ultra thicc leather fabric thats a other story shit can get bad there but with this pffft i dont see a problem here
oh ok i need to correct my statment the other "machinists" are ... ignore them i see that you know what you are doing , dont let them bring you down and keep on going with the projekts :D
Vielen Dank Maximilan, ich arbeite für ein deutsches Unternehmen im Bereich Informationssicherheit. Dein Englisch ist viel besser als mein Deutsch!
I learned mainly from watching great machinists on RUclips, I am very much a hobbyist. I try to produce acceptable quality work within my limitations
Grüß, Neil
@@maximilianjankowski I take their comments seriously, but like with electricians, it does sometimes feel like there is a quasi-religious belief that was beaten in to them as a form of indoctrination as they were trained. I take a scientific and statistical approach to managing my life risks outside work. At work, the finance. insurance and legal pressures need a very different approach. It is the same process though, analysing the real risks based on evidence and consultation with subject-matter experts and not on tragic events and personal experience, which can skew the risk appetite to the point where any remaining fun and joy is squeezed out. I studied Electronic Engineering at University in the 1970s, then did a degree in Astrophysics and Cosmology in 2010 and have spent most of my working life writing code, doing data network engineering, datacentre ops, cybersecurity and forensics. I'm a total beginner at machining and it is only a tiny part of my life, so I'm just trying to share the joy I get from being able to think of a mechanism and the make it into a real object. Preferably without dying or being maimed in the process, obviously...
3:37 No "Yahtzee!" ?
There's only a finite supply available, so I need to use them sparingly...
Just stumbled across you and this video. I like your presentation. One recommendation. Cut your recorded machine work audio significantly, or increase your voice over audio significantly. Generally cutting audio is preferred over boosting.
Hi Shain, I've hit an amusing problem with Cyberlink Powerdirector. When I run a sped-up segment, I can't control the audio level any more. I can't see why that happens, but when I then normalise the machining track, all the levels get boosted. Until I find a fix, I'm fading and muting all my sped-up tracks. I'm total rubbish at this video editing business! Thanks for the feedback
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Been a while since I've messed around with Cyberlink. I'll poke around and see if I can come up with something to lend you a hand.
@@MachiningandMicrowaves I'm glad you are aware of the audio issue. It was really hard to listen to it at night... I had to constantly turn it down to not wake everyone in the house and up again to hear what you were saying :P
I'm sorry to hijack the thread a little but I would like to address one more thing in your video. IMHO you as a RUclipsr have an obligation to teach proper safety around machinery. I like how you made sure the edges weren't razor sharp by chamfering them. But I can't skip over the fact you are using gloves while operating your lathe... ESPECIALLY when parting off and supporting the part with your gloved hand!!! Please consider that what you are doing can be seen by impressionable audiences. By showing you doing it this way they might think it's OK. One of the most common causes of serious injuries on a lather or a drill is entanglement of gloves or sleeves. I think it is your duty to always follow best safety practices on camera. Or at least address it in the video if for some reason you are not.
PS: that's a nice looking little tool you've made. ;)
@@InnerBushman Gloves is a tricky one, those are thin nitrile that tears very easily. If I don't use them, I get dermatitis and allergic reactions to cutting fluids and metal chips, so it's a balance. The long sleeves are definitely a risk that I need to address. It's freezing cold in the machine shop, I need to get the windows repaired and fix the holes in the walls and make a proper draught seal around the door so I can keep the temperature high enough that I can work with bare forearms. I could just do a disclaimer, a sort of "don't do this at home, kids", but that's a cop-out. The gloves I prefer are even thinner, but they were unavailable last year, so I got a couple of boxes of the orange textured sort. I'll have a think about how best to manage the risks to me and how to communicate that I'm aware of the elevated risks and that they are calculated. I'm a rank beginner at this stuff, I did a four-week course in 1976 on workshop practice, then never touched a machine tool until a couple of years ago
I've remixed the whole thing and chopped out the audio from the sped-up clips, and added new voiceover in parts and gentle rainforest sounds where I though it better just to keep my big mouth shut and let the images do the talking. Slightly weird hearing tree frogs and forest birds along with the raindrops, but it's better than canned music or the grey miserable cold rain we have in East Yorkshire, which land with a miserable plop and are accompanied only by the distant barking of the neighbour's dog
👍👍
Fancy seeing you here! Is this the Chihuahua Herder's Channel mayhaps?
It is to bad they don't make cameras that plug into the wall so that they don't run out of power.
Ah, meet the highly well-designed Sony ZV-1. A splendid camera, except that when you plug it in, you can't actually use it as a camera other than for streaming. Marvellous idea. I think there are third-party solutions that use a dummy battery with a power lead, but then you can't use the tripod mount because it fouls the connector. Probably the second-worst camera I've ever owned. Poor life decisions stalk me. I should sell it and buy a proper camera. The focus controls are appalling and the lens isn't good and it overheats at high frame rates. Only good thing is that it fits in a pocket. I have invested in a money-pit AGAIN.
RUclips recommends this video to me over and over and over again.... the "tidy new" version, never! You need to ask AIMEE to have a word with her pal at RUclips and tell him to get it sorted out.
Algorithms eh? Marvellous
I like your videos but your voice over the lathe sounds is too low, I need to keep lowering the volume when the lathe runs and turning it up to listen to you.
It was a problem with the normalisation, particularly in the speeded-up sections. I didn't spot it when I published it and by the time everyone started reporting the fault, it was too late. I might issue a remixed version when I get some time. Apologies for any damage to your ears! Newer videos should be much better
Yes they are! Keep posting your content is nice! I am having my issues myself trying to machine with precision 100mm stainless parts on a mini lathe 🙈
I've remixed the audio and replaced all of the nasty noisy sped-up bits with rainforest sounds. ruclips.net/video/u5G0XpiWIR4/видео.html It's a lot easier on the ears now!
Do you ever clean your machines?
Whenever the layer of chips gets too deep to see the workpieces, or when my mother is visiting. Also, usually after filming. Then by the next time I film something, the chip layer has built back up! That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it! Yes, I know I'm a bad person....
@@MachiningandMicrowaves Nobody said you were a bad person. Just sad to see someone making a nice part that doesn't put the same effort into treating his machine tools with the same respect. Guess that why you wear those rubber gloves to keep the filth and those nasty little chips off your hands. Been machining for 46 years Bud and your machines are filthy. For safety reasons a machinist that knows his shit would never wear any type of glove around rotating machinery. Some day your gonna get hurt not to mention some dumb ass is going to watch your video and get himself hurt.
@@patrickhennigan9689 I'm self-defined as a very untidy machinist who doesn't clean his machines often enough, and I'm definitely going to Hell as a result! In related news, I have a new shop vac so things might improve soon. I might need a backhoe or a snow blower for the first pass, but hey...
@@patrickhennigan9689 Albert Einstein famously pointed out that "If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?" and yes my desk and lathe and welding table are all cluttered.
@@Harvey307 It was not my intention of renting space rent free in your head for the last week. You're probably a real nice person and definitely not Einstein, nor will you end up in hell for crimes you committed against your machine tools. Einstein was not making precision parts. It's going to take more than a shop vac to get the crud off those machines. I would suggest something like Simple Green which is an environmentally friendly degreaser and plenty of clean rags. Check out oxtoolco and ROBRENZ, they keep a pretty clean shop for a reason. The added benefit of have a clean shop in the first place is it doesn't take much time to tidy up a bit and your not wasting time looking for tools giving you more time to spend on your creations.
I love the video and your commentary! But the machine noise is horrible on headphones! I have to turn it up to hear you but then you start machining and I am I eardrums out.
Very good point. I'm very new to all this video business, and as usual with anything I do, I have No Idea What I'm Doing. I use Audacity for voiceover dubbing, and apply loudness normalisation, add a bit of spaciousness and set the overall level to -3dB, but forgot that I need to do something similar for the audio tracks on my ZV-1 and my phone. They both have some sort of automatic level control but they do like to be loud. I use Cyberlink PowerDirector and do manual audio ducking where I want to add a voiceover. Problem is that I can't find how to adjust the audio level of a sped-up video segment with embedded sound, Looks like I might have to remember to do it before applying a time shift in Action Camera Center. I'll check the Cyberlink forum to see if I'm just being dimwitted (as usual) or if there is a Proper Way To Do It, of which I am blissfully unaware...
You sound alot like photonicinduction
Heh heh, I'm not sure if that's a compliment or a vicious slander! I must go check that channel out to see which....
Apart from the *entirely* different accent, that is definitely a compliment. My lab certainly looks a bit like his, although I tend to work with big radio transmitters and lots of high voltage and high GHz signals rather than popping 5kA fuses with mega-amp discharges. Nice!
Херота если по русски
When I saw you wearing gloves on a lathe, I knew immediately you are not a qualified tradesman, or if you are trade-trained, you have failed to develop safe-working behaviour.. When I first started my apprenticeship it was drummed into me no gloves or long shirtsleeves, to avoid risking catching on a moving chuck.
Flimsy nitrile gloves to keep the dermatitis under control is a calculated risk I'm comfortable with accepting. Barrier cream doesn't work for me. I haven't checked the stats on lathe accidents from wearing thin nitriles though, so perhaps my risk appetite is inappropriate. But then I'm an information security architect and electronic engineer who does a bit of machining now and then, definitely not a trained machinist
get the gloves OFF YOU FOOL
Does anyone have audited statistics on lathe accidents caused by use of flimsy nitrile gloves? I'm fascinated by the strong reactions that are being elicited. From my perspective, it feels like an quasi-religious urban myth that has been promulgated by generations of machinists and trainers rather than a result of professional risk assessment and accident root cause analysis. Also it would be good to understand the relative lifetime risk of long term impact of skin exposure to oils and coolants containing modern anti-foaming and high pressure additives as well as the impact of repeated exposure to shallow fine needle-stick injuries from stainless, brass and alloy steels containing exotics like chromium, copper and heat-generated oxides. Also long term impact of reactive dermatitis. Genuinely fascinating
CANT GIVE YOU THAT BUT IVE BEEN DOING THIS WORK FOR OVER 30 YEARS AND I HAVE SEEN SHIT HAPPEN DONT WHERE GLOVES ON A LATHE OR MILL , TRUST ME YOU WILL GET COURT SOME DAY
AND PS YER COPPER IN EYE IS NOT GOOD BUT O WELL A SPLINTER IS NO BIG DEAL I NEARLY LOST A FINGER ON A MILL ONCE BUT JUST PUT IT ALL BACK TO TOGETHER AND RAPPED A RAG AROUND IT AND GOT ON WITH THE JOB NO GLOVE IF I HAD GLOVE WOULD OF BEEN A LOT WORSE AND PS LATHE WORK IS EASY PEPLE FUCK UP AND WANT TO PLAY AND FEEL THE SPINNY BITS HMM THATS WHERE YOU GET F..UCKED UP IVE SEEN GLOVED HANDS COME OFF OR SHOULE I SAY DE GLOVED ON AROULD 15 TIMES THATS NOT GOOD ODDS !
I've added a notice to the intro to the channel and this video telling impressionable folks not to copy my personal choice of using flimsy gloves
@@timharris2944 i bet 5€ that you never wore nitril or latex gloves , im a cnc mechanic since 2017 and boi if you dont have nitril gloves the oil and the metall shavings will destroy your hands within weeks on the mashines that i worked on.
AND STOP SCREAMING GRANDPA IT HURTS MY EYES
@@maximilianjankowski gloves are for pussys