I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
I have watched this video at least half a dozen times not because I need to follow the directions or cut list or design but rather just pure joy watching it. As a DIY woodworker this is sooooo soothing to me.
Nice job. I really hadn’t watched your videos before. Great and to the point. I was thrilled to see you got the Parf Guide setup. I got one myself and haven’t used it yet but thats going to change next week. I have switched my shop over to everything mobile and the tops of all the Steele powder coated cart will be drilled out using the Parf Guide. Thanks for sharing
Awesome. Sounds like you got the second or third generation Parf Guide. Totally jealous. Thanks for watching! I agree, mobile workshops are the way to go. Cheers!
The amount of time and editing you put into this video was awesome. I know it's a lot of work and I hope you have more videos in the future. It is very professional I assumed you'd have 100's! Cheers!
Fantastic mods to the original bench and also the great quality of your video. Listening to you in your calm tone makes me think that even I can build this bench, with probably some salty language thrown in as I make stupid mistakes along the way.
You're videos are awesome man! I love the story telling and video work.. great explanation and sequencing, and the graphics are a great touch. Definitely going to help and inspire tons of people. -Caleb Harris
I watch a lot of the Best YouTubbers, and I have to completely agree with Caleb. Great video and execution. I’ve built a similar bench a few years ago, and watched all of Ron & Peter’s videos, I still learned a few thing from your video. Thank you for your contribution to the woodworking community!
Thanks Stanley, yea, I really like the parf guide system. I had the same thoughts on justifying the purchase. I know that this wont be the last build I use them in, but justification of purchases of a tool is always a good thing to be thinking about. Thanks for watching!
Just saw this, and wow, what a great video. Super content, broke down the build beautifully, and the video quality, editing and narration were all first rate production. I look forward to checking out more of your work. I've been a big fan of the paulk workbench but hadn't committed to my own style yet due to space concerns etc. What I'm thinking of are smaller, more portable approaches that I can use with my workmate, but still just a concept. Thanks for the great content.
Well done. I also bought that Parf tool and have made a couple small work tops. I am thinking of a similar design to yours, with a solid, permanent base on rollers.
Beautiful work, man! The video production is awesome, too! I thought I was happy with my current work bench, but now I'm getting ideas about how I can improve it. Thanks!
Great video! Enjoyed that a lot. I think you'll get a ton of use out of it. That hole drilling tool was quite neat, and how you used it to get a perfect 90 degree cut is so cool!
Hi, i recently published the plans from Ron (smart bench) and received 12 colourful pages and diagrams, however it looks like your plans came with instructions. Do i have that right?
At 8:26, for actual cutting, you would place the cut piece near the edge of the bench so the waste side can fall, right? Thanks for the video. This is a great setup. From what I can see the small holes on the top does wonders, 90 degree, 45 degree cut, act as as stop block, etc. I will make a smaller version of this for my Worx Pegasus work table. What I will do is only make the top part of this bench and clamp it to my Worx Pegasus work table when I need it. I have two Pegasus, which can be combined to make a larger work surface.
Just found your video and it's bang on what I need to make. I see it's been some time when u made this video. My question is how has the bench holding up with everyday use?
I was expecting to see a naked carpenter. On that regard I'm disappointed...but the quality and video angles you captured are too notch and a joy to watch. Subbed!
thanks for sharing some of the imperfections on the side hole cuts. I made a version of this as well and was nitpicking myself too much over a workbench. I may need to get that dog hole guide as i left my bench flat for now.
Hi, thank you for the video. How is the bench working for you after all this time. Is it "Janky" at all? Are you 100% happy with the build? Thank you for your candidness as I am considering this build.
Great video. Wish you had more. Great camera work. Appreciate the insane effort. Is your drill storage center from any RUclips channel or maybe magazine plans? I like it.
+Ayman Al-Harmi I think they’re on their second or third iteration of the part guide, so i think all the design flaws are worked out of it. I think it’s a great bit of ‘kit’ as Peter would say. Cheers!
This is a great video, your design is pretty much exactly what I was planning for my own workbench/outfeed of my table saw. I was wondering if the 2x4 crib, I think you called it, is intended to keep the bench rigid/not sagging in the middle. I wasn't planning to do something like this and was wondering if you think it will sag without it.
Hey Travis! The 2x4’s are for the tool storage underneath the workbench to not sag. but I don’t thing the paulk workbench would sag. It’s basically a torsion box. super super rigid. Does that make sense?
Great video! I'm looking into building an even smaller version of this just for portability. I'm also going to look into the Festool Carvex thanks to you lol. Just curious, that 6" jigsaw blade didn't flex at all while you were cutting through all those sheets? Keep up the great work!
Are you using 12mm (1/2) ply for the sides (as in the Paulk plans)? I am just test fitting and have problems with pocket screws. The recommended size is 3/4 which are only available in fine so I have tried 1 inch. They are very close to the edge and almost 'blowing' out of the mdf. Maybe inset the sides slightly? Great video by the way!
Great video. I am thinking of making a MFT also. What grade of MDF board did you use? Was it Medite, Extira or the Home Depot MDF? If it was the Home Depot MDF, did you have a problem drilling out the 20mm holes with the UJK boring bit? I've heard that the lower grade MDF boards are difficult to bore because the dust/fiber that is form clogs up the boring bit.
+Mike Ng I bought mdf from Home Depot. I made sure to have my Festool vacuum right next to the jig as i drill. i didn’t have much problems with clogging. Thanks for your feedback Mike!
What do you think about the Peter Parfitt mft3 20mm hole cutting jig template thingy? I'm seriously considering it. There's also the Dominofix 20mm hole cutting template. I built a 4' x 8' work bench and used the top from my mft3 table as a template. In my OF1400 I used a guide bushing. Some of the holes are slightly off because the bit isn't centered in the guide bushing and there's no way to adjust. I'm about to send the router in for repair/replacement. I honestly didn't check it before I started working. I just ordered a centering mandrel from festool to confirm.
Great video. Do you have a list of all the various products you are using so we mere mortals can source them? Specifically that neat tool used for measuring the holes, and the bench dogs you are using. I have been planning to do much the same as you have done, with storage underneath, but I am somewhat torn between using the holes and using a grid work of t-track. The space for storage between the top and bottom I want to do drawers and with the holes, that will let dust fall into the drawers. I am planning to do a double spine internally and a shallower drawer along the outer long sides. This design would allow a storage area for the longer track saw guides on the ends. right up the middle in between the double spines. I am however considering using a double layer top with the dog holes so I could have a combination of holes and T track on the top surface.
Gary, Thanks for watching. I like your idea of incorporating drawers and a double layer top so nothing gets in the drawers. The neat tool I used (parf guide) is sold by Veritas. The link for it is: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=75354 Also, Peter Parfit (The New Britt Workshop) designed the Parf Guide. His overview is as follows: ruclips.net/video/5usysrkgQBo/видео.html I'd love to see your finished product when your done. Feel free to email me at pastorerikmallasch@yahoo.com with final pics once you build it. Thanks! -Erik
Nice video and great ideas! I have been working on a design that is lighter weight and just as stuff. Still working on the details but hope to have something done soon. So far, it is going to take a few more parts in high deflection areas but should end up being neat. I plan to use my Maslow CNC Router to cut things out. What modeling tool are you using? Have you tried Fusion 360? It is free to hobbyist.
+Andrew Sears Thanksfor watching. I use google sketch up and really like it, but have been tempted to try fusion 360. What are things you like about fusion 360?
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 I have not used Sketch Up so dont have any data to compare. I always say, go with what gives you the features and workflows you need. Fusion has integrated CAM so getting things set up for my Maslow is easy once the workflows are understood. Since it is free for makers, no harm in trying it I guess. It works on MAC so that is a plus for a lot of people. The community is really good with a lot of RUclips videos to get started. I would suggest watching a few of Lars' videos. He covers a lot of getting started and is what I learned CAM from. ruclips.net/user/cadcamstuff I am also an FEA nerd so that is always a good time for me. :) I mostly use Inventor but that is not free, unless you are a student or teacher or mentor a FIRST Robotics team. Anyway, I really like your videos and looking forward to seeing more projects you are making. You have a cool style and it is really neat to see you getting the kids involved. I know I struggle getting my kids into making projects with me.
Andrew Sears thanks man. I appreciate the encouragement and advice. Yea, I struggle getting the kids involved too, but it’s definitely a blast when it works out.
+R&D Farming I don’t have any plans, but the rough measurements of the mobile base are 8ft long x 4ft wide x 22in Tall. That’s just the mobile base measurements. The Paulk workbench adds another 8 inches and the wheels I put on added another 3.5 inches to the height for a total of 33.5 inches tall. One thing I did worry about is my legs banging into the mobile base, but I haven’t had those issues yet. If you have anymore questions let me know. Cheers!
+R&D Farming the measurements for the mobile base are 22inches tall x 48 inches wide x96 inches deep. With her 8 inch paulk workbench and 4 inch wheels, it sits at a comfortable 34 inch height. I was I ititially worried about my feet banging into it the mobile base, but since it’s 4 inches off the group it’s just fine. If you have any more questions let me know.
I want to give you a big round of applause on you editing, really top notch !!! Nice job man !! You made me a fan!! One question tho, is there a particular reason why you use the MDF top ??
Hey Dave, Thanks for watching and for the words. The reason that I chose to use an MDF top was mainly because I was trying to mimic the Festool MDF table which is made from MDF. I'm sure I could use plywood, but what I have learned to like about the MDF is that it is less harsh on my blades and tools than plywood would be. I have a sneaking suspicion that plywood would dull a blade quicker, but who knows. If you build something similar and use something other than MDF, let me know how it goes. Cheers!
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 MDF IS VERY VERY FLAT, NO LITTLE GROOVES, nooks or crannies, so you don't have to worry about filling it in later, also it's cheap, and easy to replace
I'm curious why you used all that maple for the structure but not the top? Why choose MDF for the work surface? I would have thought that the maple would provide more longevity and be more resistant to impact damage than the MDF, no? I keep seeing people use MDF tops (including festool), so I'm sure there's a reason, I just can't figure it out. ..
It's for flatness. The top being MDF is so they can skip planing the table down. I'm personally not a fan as MDF is super heavy and can't resist impact that well.
Also, it’s cheap and won’t splinter - the Festool track saw is developed to cut directly into the top (sacrificial) so as to eliminate splintering of workpieces.
Ryan, I shot this over a 4 month process (Life circumstances got in the way of a speedy build). When I started the project I didn't have a track saw, but upon finishing the project I was able to secure one from toolnut.com. Thanks for paying attention and noticing that. I appreciate the view! -Erik
Sonny Pittman Thanks Sonny. I actually am a K-8 Certified Teacher, but currently I am an Associate Pastor at a church. Thanks for watching and the complement!
You seem to be missing the point of the Paulk bench. Torsion boxes are stiff and stable, and have virtually no movement with moisture change. And, I’m confused as to why the Paulk portion is independent of the main carcass.
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 A torsion box consists of two sheets with some system to hold them apart. For them to bow or twist the separator has to compress or expand, and/or the top and bottom sheets have to compress or stretch. The separators can be a web out of wood, or sheets of foam as in a Structural Insulated Panel, or SIP. And you may have seen them in the hard corners that Simpson Strong-Tie make to provide shear strength at garage corners. Torsion boxes made from plywood are very easy to get dead flat, particularly if you are making the webs of ripped plywood and glueing and screwing them to the top and bottom. the weber will be straight and not want to bend, so any bow or twist in the plywood top and bottom sheets will straighten itself out to conform to the ripped strips of the webbing. The Paulk bench is a torsion box, with holes in the webs. This lightens the box, and allows him to utilize the interior for storage. He made his as two smaller panels which can be placed together in a 4X8-ft work center. I can see how handy they would be if your doing a lot of trim and finish carpentry, and fairly useful if you’re framing. When you did yours you built a platform out of 2X material with no bottom plane and then made a cabinet system on top of that complete with a top, and then added a torsion box on top. The system would have been lighter and more stable if you used a sheet of 1/4 plywood glued onto 1x4s with the 3/4 plywood top. And, since you intend for it to be a semi mobile piece which never leaves the shop, it would probably been best to build the top, and then with it upside down, use the bottom of the top torsion box as a solid flat base, and build up from the floor towards the bottom of your system.
+Randall Thomas Hey Randall. Thanks for the input, I never really planned to take this out of the shop and have it mobile like Ron Paulk does. I actually recently just chopped the whole think in half to make some more room in my shop! The holes are definitely handy, although they kind of become tool traps and I find them getting cluttered often with stuff. Thanks for your interaction! Cheers!
@@randallthomas5207 what would he do if if a small part fell through the holes? They are retrievable with the Paulk. And makes a dandy place to temporarily stash tools and jigs.
STRAIGHT EDGE,,,,,,,,there is something you can make out of half a sheet of 1/2", plywood, or mdf, hard board, plexiglass, etc, at least the 2 long edges of the sheet are going to be straight , rite out of the mill, cut about a 2" strip off, take the painted edge of the board , face it toward the edge you just and glue it down, it has to be at least as wide as the widest part of the shoe of your saw, place your saw against that painted edge, and just cut along it , it will give you a custom to that saw , straight edge, and you won't have to allow for the saw shoe, you just lay that board along the line you drew on whatever you are cutting and it will always be straight and accurate, i realize this sounds confusing in type, but look up chute board, shooters board, etc, this old house has a tutorial on their you tube site, it changed my whole outlook onmaking long cuts, try it
+patrick kelly The top is dead flat. Its so flat, I’ve actually done 4 concrete GFRC countertops on them (the largest weighing 300 pounds), and they all came out dead flat and I’ve been pleased with its ability to handle large materials. Thanks for watching! If you send me your email, I can send you pictures of along the length of the table to show you it’s flatness.
I went and measured all of my circular saws and none of them are even approximately 1 1/2 from the blade to the edge of the foot. Nor are they the same as each other. The skill saw was the closest to 1 1/2" but it was just short of 1 7/16"
+The Only Alan Hey Alan, up here in alaska we generally use Worm-drive saws by skill saw, rigid and dewalt. it’s an old trick i learned while framing that the measurements are 1.5” from the blade to the edge of the fence. I’ve found that sidewinder saws and other smaller adaptations of the circular saws don’t necessarily follow that rule. Cheer!
If I was able to drop the $219.00 Lee Valley wants for that rather complicated hole boring jig I'd rather get the much simpler jig from Woodpeckers which is also available in metric or US Standard for those of us not living in Mother Russia. It's just as deadly accurate and much simpler to use and is only $139.00.
Like most say your videos are edited to perfection. My channel needs to take a lot of notes of yours. Awesome. Sub'd Edit. Just looked at your videos.. Do you live in AK? I was born and raised there and was just wondering.
The music in the background is really nice, but it's distracting and makes it difficult to hear what you're saying. Perhaps it's because you speak softly, or maybe I have a difficult time hearing. Anyway, nice video - good ideas.
I just watched and am reading comments now. I don't even remember there being music so it couldn't have been that bad. Ill have to play again to see. I'm listening with Bose headphones.
Jerod, thanks for the words. I appreciate it. I got the same comment on the lighting from a friend. When you say it needs better lighting, do you mean more consistent lighting, or its too dark? Thanks for your feedback!
Tony Ozimek Great question. The MDF has held up fantastic. I’ve even used it as a sub surface to spray and pack Concrete GFRC countertops weighing as much as 300+ lbs and she hasn’t warped one bit. Still flat as can be. Thanks for watching!
I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
I have watched this video at least half a dozen times not because I need to follow the directions or cut list or design but rather just pure joy watching it. As a DIY woodworker this is sooooo soothing to me.
+John Thanks for the encouraging words. Means a lot!
Nice to have the young fellow helping.
This guy needs to comeback to RUclips.
Thanks man. I need to get back to uploading
Great job in your modification and your video presentation, very easy to listen to and follow along. Thx
+A J. Thanks AJ!
Nice job. I really hadn’t watched your videos before. Great and to the point. I was thrilled to see you got the Parf Guide setup. I got one myself and haven’t used it yet but thats going to change next week. I have switched my shop over to everything mobile and the tops of all the Steele powder coated cart will be drilled out using the Parf Guide. Thanks for sharing
Awesome. Sounds like you got the second or third generation Parf Guide. Totally jealous. Thanks for watching! I agree, mobile workshops are the way to go. Cheers!
Thank you!!! Awesome video, great to see you keeping the little guy busy!!! Your video is hands down 5 star!!!!!
+Darien D Thanks so much man!
4:29 me too buddy....awesome build! Great video I appreciate you doing it for us!
The amount of time and editing you put into this video was awesome. I know it's a lot of work and I hope you have more videos in the future. It is very professional I assumed you'd have 100's! Cheers!
+Handy Homebrew Network Hey, thanks for the encouragement brother. Cheers!
The way you put out your content it baffles me why you have 5k subs atm. I would have guessed in the 100K+. Superb presentation and keep it up
I’ve been using the poor mans track saw forever! Great video!
Great video. And you have a beautiful family.
Fantastic mods to the original bench and also the great quality of your video. Listening to you in your calm tone makes me think that even I can build this bench, with probably some salty language thrown in as I make stupid mistakes along the way.
+whatsgnu yea, I edited all my language out too, lol. Thanks for watching!
All I can say is... Well done man!
You're videos are awesome man! I love the story telling and video work.. great explanation and sequencing, and the graphics are a great touch. Definitely going to help and inspire tons of people.
-Caleb Harris
Thanks Caleb. I appreciate the words.
YouCanMakeThisToo and
I watch a lot of the Best YouTubbers, and I have to completely agree with Caleb. Great video and execution. I’ve built a similar bench a few years ago, and watched all of Ron & Peter’s videos, I still learned a few thing from your video. Thank you for your contribution to the woodworking community!
+James Landis thanks James. I appreciate.
Subscribed!! You’re video editing, sound quality and narration are amazing. Camera angles and unique shots make this so beautiful.
+rraymond2007 thanks!
i was surprised to see you only have a few videos. Your editing was great.
+Skip Brewer Thanks for the kind words skip. I appreciate it.
Love quality, and humor, and information on this video. Great video 👍
Great video, thank you. Love the music backing also. Top tutorial
Also, thank you for sharing about the Parf guide - I never knew it existed. Just would need to justify the tool post Paulk Workbench build.
Thanks Stanley, yea, I really like the parf guide system. I had the same thoughts on justifying the purchase. I know that this wont be the last build I use them in, but justification of purchases of a tool is always a good thing to be thinking about. Thanks for watching!
Easy build another
Nice job! I like that Parf Tool drilling guide, too. Good taste in your Festool jigsaw.
+Johnny Gregory thanks!
Just saw this, and wow, what a great video. Super content, broke down the build beautifully, and the video quality, editing and narration were all first rate production. I look forward to checking out more of your work. I've been a big fan of the paulk workbench but hadn't committed to my own style yet due to space concerns etc. What I'm thinking of are smaller, more portable approaches that I can use with my workmate, but still just a concept. Thanks for the great content.
Stuart Langer thanks Stuart. I appreciate it!
Well done. I also bought that Parf tool and have made a couple small work tops. I am thinking of a similar design to yours, with a solid, permanent base on rollers.
+Christopher M. Craig Thanks Chris. I’ve been really happy with mine so far. i highly recommend a mobile base. Cheers!
Beautiful work, man! The video production is awesome, too! I thought I was happy with my current work bench, but now I'm getting ideas about how I can improve it. Thanks!
+AmplifyDIY Thanks for watching!
What a great instructional video !!! Your a natural
You deserve more subscribers. Very well done.
Ben Horn thanks for the compliment! I appreciate it
Nice job!
Ron Paulk thanks Ron!
Wow such a nice workbench. very inspiring !
thanks man!
Great video! Enjoyed that a lot. I think you'll get a ton of use out of it. That hole drilling tool was quite neat, and how you used it to get a perfect 90 degree cut is so cool!
Thanks Bruce. Now onto some builds!
Well Ron, almost the same as the Roubo French bench from1786. For those interested, the French Oak Roubo project 2013, very similar.
Hi, i recently published the plans from Ron (smart bench) and received 12 colourful pages and diagrams, however it looks like your plans came with instructions. Do i have that right?
At 8:26, for actual cutting, you would place the cut piece near the edge of the bench so the waste side can fall, right?
Thanks for the video. This is a great setup. From what I can see the small holes on the top does wonders, 90 degree, 45 degree cut, act as as stop block, etc. I will make a smaller version of this for my Worx Pegasus work table. What I will do is only make the top part of this bench and clamp it to my Worx Pegasus work table when I need it. I have two Pegasus, which can be combined to make a larger work surface.
Just found your video and it's bang on what I need to make.
I see it's been some time when u made this video. My question is how has the bench holding up with everyday use?
What a awesome and multi-functional table. Great job!
Thanks Dark Horse!
Very nice production. I've been looking for assembly table options and yours gave me some good ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Jeff Forbes Thanks for watching!
I just loved this! Your video is so well done! You explained each step perfectly.
Thanks Eva!
great video. beautifully shot.
Thanks!
+Raj Thanks!
I was expecting to see a naked carpenter. On that regard I'm disappointed...but the quality and video angles you captured are too notch and a joy to watch. Subbed!
+briman2183 sorry to disappoint on the nakedness, lol. thanks for watching and subbing!
Great upload. Very comprehensive and clear instructions. More videos please!
+Alfred o thanks!
thanks for sharing some of the imperfections on the side hole cuts. I made a version of this as well and was nitpicking myself too much over a workbench. I may need to get that dog hole guide as i left my bench flat for now.
Awesome detailing and listing great video
+John thanks!
do you have the plans for the base? very impressive
Hi, thank you for the video. How is the bench working for you after all this time. Is it "Janky" at all? Are you 100% happy with the build? Thank you for your candidness as I am considering this build.
Great video. Wish you had more. Great camera work. Appreciate the insane effort.
Is your drill storage center from any RUclips channel or maybe magazine plans? I like it.
I made it myself. i should make a video on it. Keep a look out for a video in the future!
Great editing! Great build! Just awesome
+ediii89 thanks!
Nicely done. I am actually considering getting into the park system. Any words of advice?
+Ayman Al-Harmi I think they’re on their second or third iteration of the part guide, so i think all the design flaws are worked out of it. I think it’s a great bit of ‘kit’ as Peter would say. Cheers!
This is a great video, your design is pretty much exactly what I was planning for my own workbench/outfeed of my table saw. I was wondering if the 2x4 crib, I think you called it, is intended to keep the bench rigid/not sagging in the middle. I wasn't planning to do something like this and was wondering if you think it will sag without it.
Hey Travis! The 2x4’s are for the tool storage underneath the workbench to not sag. but I don’t thing the paulk workbench would sag. It’s basically a torsion box. super super rigid. Does that make sense?
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 Right on, thanks for the reply! I'll be building mine this weekend, alongside my car camping platform setup.
dude, that’s awesome. I’d love to see pics. do you have instagram?
nice man!
send me a message with your email. i’d love to see pica
great job, great vid, thank you for the real time and story telling and *not* being 'yet another fastfoward youtuber'
Kevin B. Thanks Kevin. I appreciate the words
Great video! I'm looking into building an even smaller version of this just for portability. I'm also going to look into the Festool Carvex thanks to you lol. Just curious, that 6" jigsaw blade didn't flex at all while you were cutting through all those sheets? Keep up the great work!
Overall Great video production, thanks for taking time for it.
+Matt Day thanks matt
+Matt Day thanks Matt!
Oh yeah BTW I went straight to Mr. Paulks site and bought his compact table plans, thanks
@@mdsd77 Oh nice. Yea, the plans are great. Thanks for your engagement in my content!
Are you using 12mm (1/2) ply for the sides (as in the Paulk plans)? I am just test fitting and have problems with pocket screws. The recommended size is 3/4 which are only available in fine so I have tried 1 inch. They are very close to the edge and almost 'blowing' out of the mdf. Maybe inset the sides slightly? Great video by the way!
Nice job. Why maple instead of birch? Are you installing a vice?
Great video. I am thinking of making a MFT also. What grade of MDF board did you use? Was it Medite, Extira or the Home Depot MDF? If it was the Home Depot MDF, did you have a problem drilling out the 20mm holes with the UJK boring bit? I've heard that the lower grade MDF boards are difficult to bore because the dust/fiber that is form clogs up the boring bit.
+Mike Ng I bought mdf from Home Depot. I made sure to have my Festool vacuum right next to the jig as i drill. i didn’t have much problems with clogging. Thanks for your feedback Mike!
Where are your plans for this table? This is exactly what I want. Great job!
Go Connect!! Good job Erik
Thanks Erin!
What do you think about the Peter Parfitt mft3 20mm hole cutting jig template thingy? I'm seriously considering it. There's also the Dominofix 20mm hole cutting template.
I built a 4' x 8' work bench and used the top from my mft3 table as a template. In my OF1400 I used a guide bushing. Some of the holes are slightly off because the bit isn't centered in the guide bushing and there's no way to adjust. I'm about to send the router in for repair/replacement. I honestly didn't check it before I started working. I just ordered a centering mandrel from festool to confirm.
i'm guessing that grid layout and hole diameter is to allow for a slight wiggle if you were using 3/4 " dowels, or whatever, very smart
How dose it go for rigidity and top vibrations during heavy tasks like chiseling?
It does great. Absolutely no deflection in the top when doing high impact activities on it. Thanks for watching
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 thanks was just uncertain how the plans 12mm top would go between internals support sections
Really nice. Have you seen Ron Paulk's latest jig? i.e. Smart Cross Cut. Would go well with your bench.
Any way we could get your plans for the base? 😁
Were you able to get them? I would like to build it too. Like this version better
Really nice job!
You done good! Thanks
nice work man.
+Sam Ledversis Thanks dude
Thank you for making this video.
Dustin Roe no problem Dustin. Thanks for watching!
This is very cool, thanks so much for the education!!
Great video. Do you have a list of all the various products you are using so we mere mortals can source them? Specifically that neat tool used for measuring the holes, and the bench dogs you are using. I have been planning to do much the same as you have done, with storage underneath, but I am somewhat torn between using the holes and using a grid work of t-track. The space for storage between the top and bottom I want to do drawers and with the holes, that will let dust fall into the drawers. I am planning to do a double spine internally and a shallower drawer along the outer long sides. This design would allow a storage area for the longer track saw guides on the ends. right up the middle in between the double spines. I am however considering using a double layer top with the dog holes so I could have a combination of holes and T track on the top surface.
Gary, Thanks for watching. I like your idea of incorporating drawers and a double layer top so nothing gets in the drawers. The neat tool I used (parf guide) is sold by Veritas. The link for it is: www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=75354
Also, Peter Parfit (The New Britt Workshop) designed the Parf Guide. His overview is as follows: ruclips.net/video/5usysrkgQBo/видео.html
I'd love to see your finished product when your done. Feel free to email me at pastorerikmallasch@yahoo.com with final pics once you build it. Thanks! -Erik
Nice video and great ideas! I have been working on a design that is lighter weight and just as stuff. Still working on the details but hope to have something done soon. So far, it is going to take a few more parts in high deflection areas but should end up being neat. I plan to use my Maslow CNC Router to cut things out. What modeling tool are you using? Have you tried Fusion 360? It is free to hobbyist.
+Andrew Sears Thanksfor watching. I use google sketch up and really like it, but have been tempted to try fusion 360. What are things you like about fusion 360?
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 I have not used Sketch Up so dont have any data to compare. I always say, go with what gives you the features and workflows you need. Fusion has integrated CAM so getting things set up for my Maslow is easy once the workflows are understood. Since it is free for makers, no harm in trying it I guess. It works on MAC so that is a plus for a lot of people. The community is really good with a lot of RUclips videos to get started. I would suggest watching a few of Lars' videos. He covers a lot of getting started and is what I learned CAM from. ruclips.net/user/cadcamstuff I am also an FEA nerd so that is always a good time for me. :)
I mostly use Inventor but that is not free, unless you are a student or teacher or mentor a FIRST Robotics team.
Anyway, I really like your videos and looking forward to seeing more projects you are making. You have a cool style and it is really neat to see you getting the kids involved. I know I struggle getting my kids into making projects with me.
Andrew Sears thanks man. I appreciate the encouragement and advice. Yea, I struggle getting the kids involved too, but it’s definitely a blast when it works out.
Love the build and the channel. Subscribed!
+CCS and Sons Workshop Ditto. Thanks!
+CCS and Sons Workshop Ditto
Did you secure the top bench to the bottom tool cart?
+sam pless I actually haven’t and it hasn’t moved much which is nice.
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 Thanks!, I really Enjoyed the the Video.
well, that was the only style of a track saw once upon a time. Fixing a straight edge down was my go-to many moons ago.
+sicpac66 True dat!
+sicpac66 true dat!
I have the "Paulk Workbench Plans" but I would really like your mobile cabinet. Do you have plans or at least measurements?
+R&D Farming I don’t have any plans, but the rough measurements of the mobile base are 8ft long x 4ft wide x 22in Tall. That’s just the mobile base measurements. The Paulk workbench adds another 8 inches and the wheels I put on added another 3.5 inches to the height for a total of 33.5 inches tall. One thing I did worry about is my legs banging into the mobile base, but I haven’t had those issues yet. If you have anymore questions let me know. Cheers!
+R&D Farming the measurements for the mobile base are 22inches tall x 48 inches wide x96 inches deep. With her 8 inch paulk workbench and 4 inch wheels, it sits at a comfortable 34 inch height. I was I ititially worried about my feet banging into it the mobile base, but since it’s 4 inches off the group it’s just fine. If you have any more questions let me know.
I want to give you a big round of applause on you editing, really top notch !!! Nice job man !! You made me a fan!! One question tho, is there a particular reason why you use the MDF top ??
Hey Dave, Thanks for watching and for the words. The reason that I chose to use an MDF top was mainly because I was trying to mimic the Festool MDF table which is made from MDF. I'm sure I could use plywood, but what I have learned to like about the MDF is that it is less harsh on my blades and tools than plywood would be. I have a sneaking suspicion that plywood would dull a blade quicker, but who knows. If you build something similar and use something other than MDF, let me know how it goes. Cheers!
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 MDF IS VERY VERY FLAT, NO LITTLE GROOVES, nooks or crannies, so you don't have to worry about filling it in later, also it's cheap, and easy to replace
Nice work! What are you using for the 3D images that make it look like a pencil drawing? Some kind of plugin for sketchup or fusion?
+J Fred Beck Just a setting in sketch up. you can change the type of drawing style. google it and you should find how to change it.
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 thx!
Been there done that. Getting accurate cuts are possible but tedious without a track saw.
I went to buy the plans and the website is no longer live.
Anyone got suggestions?
interessante e bel video.
saluti
salvio
Thanks!
I'm curious why you used all that maple for the structure but not the top? Why choose MDF for the work surface? I would have thought that the maple would provide more longevity and be more resistant to impact damage than the MDF, no? I keep seeing people use MDF tops (including festool), so I'm sure there's a reason, I just can't figure it out. ..
It's for flatness. The top being MDF is so they can skip planing the table down. I'm personally not a fan as MDF is super heavy and can't resist impact that well.
Also, it’s cheap and won’t splinter - the Festool track saw is developed to cut directly into the top (sacrificial) so as to eliminate splintering of workpieces.
Отличный стол,молодец!👍
Thank You
Good job buddy 💪👍🌹
I need one at 16’ long!
Great video thanks!!
"...because I'm really fat." That was really funny and unexpected in such serious commentary.
rpnbrn lol. Thanks rpnrbn. Glad somebody caught that
Will u be willing to rent me the Parf guide tool? Thinking of building me the bench.
You don't have the festool track saw, but you have the track?
Ryan, I shot this over a 4 month process (Life circumstances got in the way of a speedy build). When I started the project I didn't have a track saw, but upon finishing the project I was able to secure one from toolnut.com. Thanks for paying attention and noticing that. I appreciate the view! -Erik
Awesome! Definitely a tool I would like to add to my arsenal.
Hi
I am from portugal
Herencia can i buy The plans ?
Hey Mauricia, you can purchase the plans using htis link: stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/ Hope it works out! -Erik
Great job! Are you a teacher or trainer of some sorts? If so, it shows.
Sonny Pittman Thanks Sonny. I actually am a K-8 Certified Teacher, but currently I am an Associate Pastor at a church. Thanks for watching and the complement!
I thought so too. A natural teacher!
Very well done. looks good. Good instruction. But ... I visited some of your links and the jigs alone are like $350.00! Ouch.
yea, no joke, it's definitely an expensive hobby. Thanks for the feedback!
You seem to be missing the point of the Paulk bench. Torsion boxes are stiff and stable, and have virtually no movement with moisture change. And, I’m confused as to why the Paulk portion is independent of the main carcass.
Hey Randall, take me to school then. in your opinion what’s the main point of the Paulk workbench? Sincerely, an anxious school boy
@@thenakedcarpenter2502 A torsion box consists of two sheets with some system to hold them apart. For them to bow or twist the separator has to compress or expand, and/or the top and bottom sheets have to compress or stretch. The separators can be a web out of wood, or sheets of foam as in a Structural Insulated Panel, or SIP. And you may have seen them in the hard corners that Simpson Strong-Tie make to provide shear strength at garage corners. Torsion boxes made from plywood are very easy to get dead flat, particularly if you are making the webs of ripped plywood and glueing and screwing them to the top and bottom. the weber will be straight and not want to bend, so any bow or twist in the plywood top and bottom sheets will straighten itself out to conform to the ripped strips of the webbing.
The Paulk bench is a torsion box, with holes in the webs. This lightens the box, and allows him to utilize the interior for storage. He made his as two smaller panels which can be placed together in a 4X8-ft work center. I can see how handy they would be if your doing a lot of trim and finish carpentry, and fairly useful if you’re framing.
When you did yours you built a platform out of 2X material with no bottom plane and then made a cabinet system on top of that complete with a top, and then added a torsion box on top. The system would have been lighter and more stable if you used a sheet of 1/4 plywood glued onto 1x4s with the 3/4 plywood top. And, since you intend for it to be a semi mobile piece which never leaves the shop, it would probably been best to build the top, and then with it upside down, use the bottom of the top torsion box as a solid flat base, and build up from the floor towards the bottom of your system.
+Randall Thomas Hey Randall. Thanks for the input, I never really planned to take this out of the shop and have it mobile like Ron Paulk does.
I actually recently just chopped the whole think in half to make some more room in my shop!
The holes are definitely handy, although they kind of become tool traps and I find them getting cluttered often with stuff.
Thanks for your interaction! Cheers!
@@randallthomas5207 what would he do if if a small part fell through the holes? They are retrievable with the Paulk. And makes a dandy place to temporarily stash tools and jigs.
STRAIGHT EDGE,,,,,,,,there is something you can make out of half a sheet of 1/2", plywood, or mdf, hard board, plexiglass, etc, at least the 2 long edges of the sheet are going to be straight , rite out of the mill, cut about a 2" strip off, take the painted edge of the board , face it toward the edge you just and glue it down, it has to be at least as wide as the widest part of the shoe of your saw, place your saw against that painted edge, and just cut along it , it will give you a custom to that saw , straight edge, and you won't have to allow for the saw shoe, you just lay that board along the line you drew on whatever you are cutting and it will always be straight and accurate, i realize this sounds confusing in type, but look up chute board, shooters board, etc, this old house has a tutorial on their you tube site, it changed my whole outlook onmaking long cuts, try it
great video ..how flat are the tops on these benches ..looking to build a assm table but needs to be very flat .
+patrick kelly The top is dead flat. Its so flat, I’ve actually done 4 concrete GFRC countertops on them (the largest weighing 300 pounds), and they all came out dead flat and I’ve been pleased with its ability to handle large materials. Thanks for watching! If you send me your email, I can send you pictures of along the length of the table to show you it’s flatness.
Great video, but the music was too loud for me over your voice. Thanks for the tips!
+Lifendason Thanks for the feedback!
But why the "Goose is dead" music?
hell yeah dude
I went and measured all of my circular saws and none of them are even approximately 1 1/2 from the blade to the edge of the foot. Nor are they the same as each other. The skill saw was the closest to 1 1/2" but it was just short of 1 7/16"
+The Only Alan Hey Alan, up here in alaska we generally use Worm-drive saws by skill saw, rigid and dewalt. it’s an old trick i learned while framing that the measurements are 1.5” from the blade to the edge of the fence. I’ve found that sidewinder saws and other smaller adaptations of the circular saws don’t necessarily follow that rule. Cheer!
If I was able to drop the $219.00 Lee Valley wants for that rather complicated hole boring jig I'd rather get the much simpler jig from Woodpeckers which is also available in metric or US Standard for those of us not living in Mother Russia. It's just as deadly accurate and much simpler to use and is only $139.00.
Like most say your videos are edited to perfection. My channel needs to take a lot of notes of yours. Awesome. Sub'd
Edit.
Just looked at your videos.. Do you live in AK? I was born and raised there and was just wondering.
Yea man. I live in Anchorage, on the Eastside. Small world. Thanks for the complements. Where'd you grow up in AK?
Born in Anchorage, but Wasilla, and Palmer, basically Matanuska Valley.
+SearchingforSignalLLC that’s awesome man. You ever think about coming back, or are you in the lower 48 for good?
The music in the background is really nice, but it's distracting and makes it difficult to hear what you're saying. Perhaps it's because you speak softly, or maybe I have a difficult time hearing. Anyway, nice video - good ideas.
I just watched and am reading comments now. I don't even remember there being music so it couldn't have been that bad. Ill have to play again to see. I'm listening with Bose headphones.
1:35 it's 33 mm with my Bosch
Great video style, narration, and audio quality. Need better lighting
Jerod, thanks for the words. I appreciate it. I got the same comment on the lighting from a friend. When you say it needs better lighting, do you mean more consistent lighting, or its too dark? Thanks for your feedback!
The Naked Carpenter - just too dark. I think you got all the difficult stuff correct, and now you just need some bright 6500k overhead lighting.
Very good video! how has the MDF held up as a top? Subscribe
Tony Ozimek Great question. The MDF has held up fantastic. I’ve even used it as a sub surface to spray and pack Concrete GFRC countertops weighing as much as 300+ lbs and she hasn’t warped one bit. Still flat as can be. Thanks for watching!