Haha, was I the person. I watched this video when it was posted and was not able to leave a comment. When you have vehicle issues, it stops the house build! 😢 The worst. Watching your newest video now!
You are brilliant Bruce! I could never figure out all the crap you do. I did have to adjust my cab tension bolt also because I could barely budge my cab over but it is custom built with a lot of added weight too!I thought I was just getting old and weak...
Hey Bruce, thank you for all your videos. I'm keenly watching every episode. I have just finished a 07 Fuso FG 140 and went on a trip through the states. We ran into a no start issue on the top of a mountain in Montana. After being towed and 12 hours at the mechanic we figured out that I had an air lock in the fuel system caused by my own doing as I ran the return line into a small diesel tank for the heater inside the habitat. After using the heater the air from the tank found its way into the fuel system and was cleaned out by performing an ether start. The reason for my note is to ask about your code reader. What is it called and where is it from. I've had the truck at a mechanic twice now and neither was able to get any data from a variety of readers. You speak of a dealer software in one of the videos. The dealers on the west coast here seem very held back with information they want to release.
Sounds like a blast! (Well, except the no-start, I know how that feels!) - I believe your 07 only has a mechanical pump, so nothing to push air out of the system if it gets in there, other than the hand primer. As far a code readers, it’s a bit of a disaster these days, but there is a way, without the reader on some trucks. Not sure this reader will work on 07’s or not, but check out this video I did a while back (link below). My basic code reader is a CRHD, it can read some, but not all codes, might work more on your truck than mine. That said, I am currently in conversation with one of the diagnostic tool manufacturers and hopefully soon can do a demo on one of theirs. Unfortunately the Fuso Xentry software which the dealers use (that I have) is not working anymore, and is prohibitively expensive. Don’t buy a code reader for your Mitsubishi Fuso without watching this first! ruclips.net/video/XI-nOFkUMK0/видео.html
@BruceandKrista thank you Bruce, unfortunately my truck has no digital display in the dash. I'll see if I can get the one you speak above. There's no rush, the traveling season is over for the most part anyways. I'm attempting to replace the engine wiring harness over the winter as it is in rough shape. Maybe your conversation about the diagnostic tool bears fruit, would be nice to have something that works on board. Again thank you for the advice and hopefully you get your truck running again soon too.
Good troubleshooting, Bruce. You DO have a 5v source. Any of your phone/kindle chargers put out 5v. I bought a bunch of 5 and 12v power supplies from Ebay back when things were super cheap and shipped free. Some were 12v in/5v out or 5v in and 3v/5v/9v/12v out and were about a buck apiece.
Good job and its good you show how sometimes its can be a maze to diagnose. When you check your resistance did you check your reference voltage and ground from the computer? Than start with thing you know it already bad / more probable otherwise you can look for chimeras. You have def : temperatures sensor fault, start with that. You can put a resistance or old part / switch part or a potentiometer to give a good signal and test. Its already broken so you will have to repair it anyway and there are a posibility that is your problem.
Only problem is I don’t know what the correct resistance is for the DEF level sensor (not temp). I have new sensors on the way for the exhaust, so hopefully that was what was causing it.
One low-budget suggestion: You should be able to confirm whether or not the injectors are firing with a stethoscope. I have a Lisle that works great for isolating bearing noise. Will need something fancier to see if they're firing at the right time, though.
What's up Bruce. I see you have the Duonic transmission. How's it been holding up? I'm thinking about buying a Mitsubishi canter with the same transmission 2017. How many miles you have on her? Any problems with the transmission so far? Oh and good luck finding and fixing the no-start issue.
So far my ownership only entails working on building the truck, but the twin truck to this one has been collecting miles for the past few years! There is a recall on the transmission, so check with a local dealer if it’s been done on the truck you are looking at.
I have a 2007 Fuso FG 4x4 that has “issues.” Zeus also has a slow battery drain that I can’t figure out. Sometime he won’t start… I’m cheap, so I give the starter a couple light taps with a hammer and he fires up.
Kill switch and or float charger is an easy way to save your batteries 🙃. Starter is a bit more difficult to fix, but could be just a loose wire on the solenoid.
I had pproblems with my sensors also and I am gonna guess that is your problem and that is the way they designed this system to disable starting to protect the crappy emissions system.
My friend, I have the same engine, but the injectors are without electricity at the crank (positive and negative). Where do you expect the problem to be? Is it in the ECM or somewhere else? Can I contact you via WhatsApp or any other program?
Yep, read the codes through the gauge cluster and it should tell you what’s causing the engine light, which hopefully is the cause of the no start. Don’t buy a code reader for your Mitsubishi Fuso without watching this first! ruclips.net/video/XI-nOFkUMK0/видео.html
@@BruceandKrista i pulled the following codes SAM 2372, 2374,52205,52206,53208,532020,521994. The FMI is 5 The engine codes are 110, 102, (132 FMI 2) 176,174,1074,(1076 FMI 4, 5,) 1636, 3470, 3361, 2791 Can tu please tell me what thes codes means
Each of the SPN codes should have a corresponding FMI… need to know both to know what they are saying. None of the SAM codes will be preventing a start, that’s just things like light bulbs.
Hey, look, dont judge me, i know its potentially the stupidest suggestion so far..... but.... hows the battery in the key? I figure NORMALLY a vehicle shouldnt even turn over if the chip in the key isnt transmitting, but i've heard of stupider design decisions in some of these trucks. Is it possible that the "immobiliser function" still allows the starter to crank but doesnt issue the ignition command? I dont have any examples of a immobiliser system doing it that way, so i can't back up my suggestion. But at this point i think you just need heaps of potentially stupid theories to start whittling down every possible issue
Yup, I wondered if it was the immobilizer, but if the immobilizer is preventing the start, it shows the lock light on the dash when cranking. Changed the battery anyway, no luck!
Haha, was I the person. I watched this video when it was posted and was not able to leave a comment. When you have vehicle issues, it stops the house build! 😢 The worst. Watching your newest video now!
I’ve always got vehicle issues, if it’s not on this vehicle it’s on another! (Sometimes more than one at once!) 🤣
You are brilliant Bruce! I could never figure out all the crap you do. I did have to adjust my cab tension bolt also because I could barely budge my cab over but it is custom built with a lot of added weight too!I thought I was just getting old and weak...
Have you tried with the doors open? Makes the biggest difference!
He probably cheats with a complete service manual for the beastie. Bruce is no dummy. ;)
LOL, if I could cheat on this one I would!!!
Hey Bruce, thank you for all your videos. I'm keenly watching every episode. I have just finished a 07 Fuso FG 140 and went on a trip through the states. We ran into a no start issue on the top of a mountain in Montana. After being towed and 12 hours at the mechanic we figured out that I had an air lock in the fuel system caused by my own doing as I ran the return line into a small diesel tank for the heater inside the habitat. After using the heater the air from the tank found its way into the fuel system and was cleaned out by performing an ether start.
The reason for my note is to ask about your code reader. What is it called and where is it from. I've had the truck at a mechanic twice now and neither was able to get any data from a variety of readers.
You speak of a dealer software in one of the videos. The dealers on the west coast here seem very held back with information they want to release.
Sounds like a blast! (Well, except the no-start, I know how that feels!) - I believe your 07 only has a mechanical pump, so nothing to push air out of the system if it gets in there, other than the hand primer. As far a code readers, it’s a bit of a disaster these days, but there is a way, without the reader on some trucks. Not sure this reader will work on 07’s or not, but check out this video I did a while back (link below). My basic code reader is a CRHD, it can read some, but not all codes, might work more on your truck than mine. That said, I am currently in conversation with one of the diagnostic tool manufacturers and hopefully soon can do a demo on one of theirs. Unfortunately the Fuso Xentry software which the dealers use (that I have) is not working anymore, and is prohibitively expensive.
Don’t buy a code reader for your Mitsubishi Fuso without watching this first!
ruclips.net/video/XI-nOFkUMK0/видео.html
@BruceandKrista thank you Bruce, unfortunately my truck has no digital display in the dash. I'll see if I can get the one you speak above. There's no rush, the traveling season is over for the most part anyways.
I'm attempting to replace the engine wiring harness over the winter as it is in rough shape. Maybe your conversation about the diagnostic tool bears fruit, would be nice to have something that works on board.
Again thank you for the advice and hopefully you get your truck running again soon too.
Good troubleshooting, Bruce. You DO have a 5v source. Any of your phone/kindle chargers put out 5v. I bought a bunch of 5 and 12v power supplies from Ebay back when things were super cheap and shipped free. Some were 12v in/5v out or 5v in and 3v/5v/9v/12v out and were about a buck apiece.
Never even thought of a USB for power!
Good job and its good you show how sometimes its can be a maze to diagnose. When you check your resistance did you check your reference voltage and ground from the computer? Than start with thing you know it already bad / more probable otherwise you can look for chimeras. You have def : temperatures sensor fault, start with that. You can put a resistance or old part / switch part or a potentiometer to give a good signal and test. Its already broken so you will have to repair it anyway and there are a posibility that is your problem.
Only problem is I don’t know what the correct resistance is for the DEF level sensor (not temp). I have new sensors on the way for the exhaust, so hopefully that was what was causing it.
I think with the injector pipes off and the system open then pressure is lower?
Can you get hold of a scope to probe the injector pulse?
One low-budget suggestion: You should be able to confirm whether or not the injectors are firing with a stethoscope. I have a Lisle that works great for isolating bearing noise. Will need something fancier to see if they're firing at the right time, though.
One of the next things I’ll be doing is pulling the connectors off and sticking LED’s in them to see if they all flash…
Bruce, I have an EGTsensor for you as well as a dc power supply for 5v reference
Thanks!
What's up Bruce. I see you have the Duonic transmission. How's it been holding up? I'm thinking about buying a Mitsubishi canter with the same transmission 2017. How many miles you have on her? Any problems with the transmission so far? Oh and good luck finding and fixing the no-start issue.
So far my ownership only entails working on building the truck, but the twin truck to this one has been collecting miles for the past few years! There is a recall on the transmission, so check with a local dealer if it’s been done on the truck you are looking at.
I have a 2007 Fuso FG 4x4 that has “issues.”
Zeus also has a slow battery drain that I can’t figure out.
Sometime he won’t start…
I’m cheap, so I give the starter a couple light taps with a hammer and he fires up.
Kill switch and or float charger is an easy way to save your batteries 🙃. Starter is a bit more difficult to fix, but could be just a loose wire on the solenoid.
Hi bro, I need the wiring diagram of the fuso canter. 4p10. My canter is 2021 model and it doesn’t crank.
I don’t have the 2021 wiring diagram - if it doesn’t crank you need to read the codes to start diagnosing.
I had pproblems with my sensors also and I am gonna guess that is your problem and that is the way they designed this system to disable starting to protect the crappy emissions system.
I hope that’s what it is - just wish they would give a code that says start inhibit due to “X” !!
My friend, I have the same engine, but the injectors are without electricity at the crank (positive and negative). Where do you expect the problem to be? Is it in the ECM or somewhere else?
Can I contact you via WhatsApp or any other program?
My 2013 fuso canter is showing Engine systems light in red and my truck wouldn't start any suggestions ?
Yep, read the codes through the gauge cluster and it should tell you what’s causing the engine light, which hopefully is the cause of the no start.
Don’t buy a code reader for your Mitsubishi Fuso without watching this first!
ruclips.net/video/XI-nOFkUMK0/видео.html
@@BruceandKrista i pulled the following codes SAM 2372, 2374,52205,52206,53208,532020,521994. The FMI is 5
The engine codes are 110, 102, (132 FMI 2) 176,174,1074,(1076 FMI 4, 5,) 1636, 3470, 3361, 2791
Can tu please tell me what thes codes means
Each of the SPN codes should have a corresponding FMI… need to know both to know what they are saying. None of the SAM codes will be preventing a start, that’s just things like light bulbs.
No start no code is usually immobiliser?
Immobilizer shows a light on the dash during cranking if it’s active… no light… 😔
Ok, check for fuel squirting out of injectors. Then check if fuel has water in it?
All basics, sorry if you already checked.
👍
Did that in the previous video - have fuel all the way to the rail…. Computer reads fuel pressure as in range.
But check it's coming out of an injector or bleed pipe....👍
At over 5000 PSI, and with the effort involved in removing injectors, I’m thinking that will be my absolute last resort 😎
Plz share wiring diagram
Hey, look, dont judge me, i know its potentially the stupidest suggestion so far..... but.... hows the battery in the key?
I figure NORMALLY a vehicle shouldnt even turn over if the chip in the key isnt transmitting, but i've heard of stupider design decisions in some of these trucks. Is it possible that the "immobiliser function" still allows the starter to crank but doesnt issue the ignition command?
I dont have any examples of a immobiliser system doing it that way, so i can't back up my suggestion. But at this point i think you just need heaps of potentially stupid theories to start whittling down every possible issue
Yup, I wondered if it was the immobilizer, but if the immobilizer is preventing the start, it shows the lock light on the dash when cranking. Changed the battery anyway, no luck!