If u want to make flash softer then you have to increase the size of the light source relative to the subject. A softbox works because it is a bigger light source than a flashgun pointing directly at the subject. Thats why bounced flash is softer, your whole ceiling becomes the light souce. Putting a cloth over the flash head and pointing the flash directly at the subject won't make the light softer, just weaker. But don't just take my word for it, look it up.
Or just look at the the quality of the shadow and realize it actually did soften the light. You know why? because the light source did actually become bigger as it was beaming through the entirety of the fabric. But don't just take my word for it, look at it.
can't you guys just collab already??? your audiences love you!! and will either of you do a lengthy discussion about the controversy around editing film with software?? everyone ignores it or dances around it. we want to know how the pros go about it. LOVE YOU GUYS!!
no down side?? yes there is. it's more of a philosophical downside. you make the (kinda laborious) effort to go the film route because you value the art of the film process and the product but then you negate it by using digital software. it's gilding the lily. why grow a beautiful flower when you just dose it in gold? why not just use a digital camera all together? i agree that sometimes you can't tell the difference in the product (except one has pixels and the other has grain) but why even do film then?
A lot of people here asking if it can be used on this or that camera. I think they are worried it is not the same make as their camera. Metz are an independent flash unit maker and designed this to be used with any camera of its time, which was the film era, as long as it has a flash sync socket, usually marked "X". Be more cautious about connecting it to a digital camera though.
I have a Sunpak 522 which is a very similar type of flash to the Metz. I have a hot shoe adapter with pc sync port so I can use it with cameras that don't have one. I've had good results using it with an Olympus om10.
@@robertknight4672 The 522 was also sold as the 3600, the latter in European markets (the manual used metric distances). 36 is the guide number in metres. Sunpak made some pro-grade flash units like these and were Metz's main rival, both now gone from the market. It is a shame that hammerheads went out of fashion too - I don't trust a heavy unit on a camera hotshoe. Beware the 522 might have too high a voltage for a modern camera.
Ferenc Bodor flashes always look better off to the side and slightly above. Unless you are shooting plants or rock and want more detail. Than at 3 or 9 o clock adds details. Always use your flash OFF the camera (meaning not stuck to the top of it, which is the worst lighting).
I'd always had a personal notion that using a flash is a dreadful sin but this video has shown me that I've probably just been using the wrong flash. Thanks, I'm gonna look into this flash for some of my 35mm work.
Your shutter speed would help control the ambient light (the existing light in the environment). So if you wanted more of the ambient light, you could use a lower shutter speed. If you use a higher shutter speed, most of the light will come from the flash--make sure that you *don't* choose a shutter speed higher than the flash sync speed of your camera, or part of your frame will be black. What you could do is use your camera's meter to help you decide. If you want *mostly* flash, but a little bit of the ambient light, maybe set your shutter speed to twice as fast or even four times faster (2 stops) than what the meter says you should use. The flash will make sure your subject is properly exposed, but by using a shutter speed that's not *too* high, you'll get some of the room light in. You could also use the ambient light as your main exposure, but use the flash as "fill" light, to brighten up the shadows a bit. To do that, use your camera's meter (or you can always use an external meter) to set the camera to expose the film properly. Then "lie" to the flash, and tell it you're using a wider aperture than you really are. For example, if you're going to use F8 to shoot at, on top of the flash tell it you're shooting at F5.6 or even F4 (if you're wanting even less fill). (You could lie about the ISO too/instead, for more precise control, but for right now, let's not go there.) The flash, thinking you're going to shoot at F5.6, kicks out only half as much light as it would if it knew you were actually shooting at F8 (if you set it for F4, it would provide only ¼ the light). So your main exposure will be the ambient light, which you've set the camera to expose properly. But the flash will give you a little extra light going straight into the shadows and brightening them, and/or giving a bit of "pop" to your subject if it's a dull, overcast day. Sorry fo the long reply, I hope that made sense and was helpful!
I've never heard of that term. In America most people just call it Fill Flash. The manuals what's my Vivitar and sunpak flashes all use the term fill Flash. I've heard of the term slow Synchro which some point and shoot cameras refer to as night portrait mode.
Amazing flash. What did U compare it to when shopping or testing? I have an old Nikon SB-11 that is similar. Its the F3P dedicated but used in PC sync auto thyristor. I use it on everything I use. Can even be TTL adapted to modern Nikon of the film days
That metz 60 Ct4 is an awesome flash. It was the best flash for me when I used to shoot events with film cameras. This video brings back great memories! Great work George!
George, your channel is a huge inspiration. Just ordered the third issue of negative feedback to get some more ideas. Maybe you could experiment a bit with different filters for black and white photography in one of your next videos? cheers
there is a darker line on the bottom of almost every picture, maybe it can be avoided if you turn the head of the flash a little down (my similar Metz had that movement, but I'm not sure) nice video folks!
Hey George, great video. Just one thing one MUST consider on these old Metz flashguns : They have voltages around 200V when fully loaded on the PC socket ! There is a hack with a TRIAC ( for those who know on wich side the soldering iron is dangerous ;-) ) that makes these beasts compatible with newer gear. But I would definetely not advice these flashes on a mirrorless or something like that. When these flashes were put on the market, most cameras had mechanical contacts wich can easily handle these voltages and even more current for flashbulbs. Think this could be important if You don't want to fry the electronic circuits in the camera. Cheers !
www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html says 14-25 volts for these things. Not in the 200V league but still a bit dodgy. Anway, why do you say mirrorless? The warning applies to most electronic cameras, ie made from about 1990, even film cameras.
Sorry no one's replied yet--but yes it would! And it would work very well. You'd have to use the Auto function of the flash, but all you'd have to do with the dial on top would be to tell the flash the speed (ISO) of the film you are using, and the aperture you've set on the lens. (You could use the flash's Manual mode, too, but that would involve either using a flash meter, or knowing how to use something called guide numbers to calculate your exposure.) The flash is rather big and heavy for the relatively small FM2, but it will function totally fine. And it will work great on bigger, heavier cameras (like a medium format camera, as he was using in the video). It will *also* work fine on a a DSLR in Auto mode, as long as your digital camera has the sync port to plug the cable in that triggers the flash. Most higher-end DSLRs have them, while for some cheaper ones (and probably most mirrorless cameras) you'd need an adapter to slide in the hot shoe to use them. Your FM2 already has the sync port on the front of the camera.
@@CVProductions Not sure how to share e-mail addresses on here--or that I'd want to publicly. It's really not hard: (1) Bolt the flash to the camera. (2) You need the cable that connects the PC sync port on the camera to the flash; plug it in. (3) On top of the flash, set the ISO of the film you're using by turning the central black knob until the arrow points at the correct ISO, which is shown in blue. (4) Decide what aperture you want to shoot at, and set that on the flash by turning the clear plastic dial until the arrow points at that aperture, shown in green (make sure your lens aperture does match what you've set on the flash). (5) Set your camera's shutter speed to 1/125 second or less (that *is* the max sync speed on an FM2, right?); the slower you set the shutter speed, the more of the background light you'll let in. You should now be in fully auto mode, and it won't matter if you point the flash directly at your subject or bounce it off the ceiling (assuming the ceiling isn't really high or painted black) you should get pretty good exposure doing that. You *can* use the flash's manual modes, too, but I wouldn't do that, I'd stick with auto mode, unless you understand guide numbers and have read and thoroughly understand the manual for the flash. (It's also possible, by setting a smaller aperture on your camera than on the flash to trick it into doing fill flash, but again, for right now, it's probably just best to follow steps 1-5 above, and you should be good to go.
when using this flash do you keep the shutter speed on 60? this is what i’ve done with other flashes that clip on top of my camera but when i do it with this my cameras internal light meter doesn’t show the shutter speed at 60, its as if it doesn’t recognise the flash is connected
yes it works well with the RZ - www.sarahhannam.com/portraits/bo0dvqmjoljlyhkc2n45uq5tqjc1rl the guy on the bike was shot using the RZ with the Metz CL-4 flash
thanks for the review. I thought I can use Metz 45-cl4 only for digital cameras. may I ask can I use it for all kind of film cameras? like my Nikon Nikkormat FTN, EL, EF, FG, F65, F100, F80 and like that? I have all of those cameras. that is why the question. one anohter question. can I use also Metz 45 cl-3 for film cameras? thanks in advance
Hello, I love your work. I want to know if it works with mamiya rz 67 with just the sync cable? or do you need some other adaptador? im afraid to damage my camera. thank you
You have no problem using it with your Mamiya RX67 with a sync cable to yours PC Sync Socket. Reply back with your email here if you need more assistants.
Bought one of those cheap eBay 6-AA battery holders, but I can hear flash wanting to charge, but ready light never comes on. Also, battery pack gets very warm. Any ideas?
After cycling between on and off, first just a few seconds, then successively longer periods, it finally, after sitting on for almost ten minutes, showed a ready light. After then leaving it on until charged, then shutting it off, then repeating after several minutes, many times, it now will initially charge after about a minute, then recycle after another 45 seconds. Hopefully, with fresher batteries, it will get even better. It would be a shame having to trash this fine flash. REPLY
With a focal plane shutter (most [D]SLRs) you need to set it to the sync speed or slower. With a leaf shutter (most rangefinders and some medium format) it can be anything but not faster than about 1/500 sec.
Hi, i just bought a nikon fe2 and i have already a metz 45ct-5 but with pc sync cable only. what kinf of cable and adapter for the hot shoe i need to make ttl work, thx
Okay, that's a bit complicated, and you're going to have to search around--probably eBay, unless you're lucky like I was when I lived in South London and there was an ancient camera shop with loads of old bits and bobs lying about, which is where I got most of my Metz stuff. According to this chart (www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/charts/comp_metzflash_nikon_2.html) at B&H, you need two bits: the Metz SCA 343 and the Metz SCA 300A. B&H no longer stocks them new--Metz went bankrupt a while back--but their website shows what the two parts look like. The SCA 343 is here (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/35023-REG/Metz_MZ_5483_SCA_343_Dedicated_Module.html) and the SCA 300A is here (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/35024-REG/Metz_MZ_5484_SCA_300A_System_Adapter.html). Good luck!
You will get better results doing & shooting ATG Auto2 (wirelessly) with ATG's Metz 45CT-5. The last from ATG were the ATG Gold 60CT-4s and Metz 60CT-4 (ATG/Metz world's powerful flash).
Could you explain guide numbers on flashes??? I have wanted to use a fill flash for a while now on my rangefinders but 1. I don't shoot digital anymore, so I cant review any shots on the spot 2. My trusty Weston meter cant see the flash burst cos its incident/reflective only, and 3. My brain is a bit small and cant wrap my head around this dilemma :(
Ohhhh, boy! Now *that* is a can of worms. And involves having good mental math skills, or a calculator. Okay, guide numbers for a flash are *usually* (I don't want to say always) based on ISO 100 film. And it pays to know if the guide number you're looking at is in feet or meters. The Metz 45 CL-4 has a guide number of *148 feet* for ISO 100 film at full power. So here's how it works: you have to know the distance that you are from whatever it is you want to light with your flash. If you're shooting a film camera, the lens *probably* has a distance scale, so you could focus first and read the distance, if you don't want to "guesstimate." Then, you divide the guide number by the distance, which will give you the aperture you should use. So let's say the group of people you're shooting is 10 feet away. 148/10 = 14.8, so you could set your aperture on F16, which is the closest aperture to 14.8. As that would leave your film *slightly* underexposed, I'd probably set it midway between F11 and F16, and with negative film you'll be very close. Now, if you're not shooting 100 speed film, or you're not using the flash on full power, you'll need to make compensation. So if, say, you're using 200 ISO film, the guide number would double to 296 (theoretically; lots of times, theory doesn't quite match up with real-world results). If you're using ISO 100 film but shooting the flash at ½ power, the guide number would be 74. And so on. I you're *bouncing* the flash, all of this goes right out of the window, and you're better off using a flash meter or the flash's Auto mode. Hope that made sense and was helpful.
Does anyone has a link to one of those flashmounts? Just don't know how to find one (has to be for a Hasselblad and Nikon f90, but that shouldn't make any difference - right?)
I bought the flash a week ago on Ebay (Germany) and have seen a couple mounts for sale: www.ebay.de/itm/Metz-Blitzschiene-45-CT-4-und-60-CT-4-u-a-Modelle-von-Metz/402197512904?hash=item5da4d702c8:g:w50AAOSwhYZeOvQ2&redirect=mobile What camera you use makes no difference, you adjust the screw's position and it should fit. I'm using the flash with a Fuji GW690III. Just for fun I even put a small point and shot camera on it, looked ridiculous but worked. A late answer but I hope it helps.
Try Ebay. You should have got a bracket with the flash (don't buy one without) but somehow some people lose them. But for the Hasselblad you'd be better with a bracket meant for medium format, and they are like finding hens' teeth.
I would like to ask, how do people print zines? I mean like the pictures themselves, are they printed the same way as normal prints ? If yes, why are zines so much cheaper than prints ?
I'm really interested in getting into film photography but I do not have a large budget at all (up to £500 if I save up for maybe a year, but realistically about £200-£300). I was wondering what would be a good starting camera for someone who wants to get into film photography but doesn't have the money for a camera like the Mamiya 7. I adore your videos and photography, especially how much I can learn from them about film photography as well as the style of image I prefer. There's something about film that has a lot more emotion and brutal realism to it than digital photography can capture.
Depending on your camera, which you did not add on the question. Most are 1/60 (set Shutter to 60 or under). Then you set the flash into ATG Auto2 modes.
They're very similar, really--this gentleman does an excellent and detailed job of summarising the differences & advantages/disadvantages: strobeex.blogspot.com/2014/12/metz-45-ct1-ct3-ct4-ct5-cl1-cl3-cl4-cl4.html
@@diegourbina6371 Yes. You will need to get the ATG/Metz PC Sync Cable & Hotshoe Adapter. You must get the pc sync cable for your flash model, because they are not the same. ATG has a special with Adorama for Adorama Camera PC to Hot Shoe Adapter (FAPCHSA) just $5.00 (they are going fast). Then you need a Metz's PC Sync Cable made for your flash model. Once you have those two. Connect pc sync cable to flash & other end connect to adapter. Place adapter on camera's hotshoe & set camera's shutter speed to flash sync speed. www.adorama.com/fapchsa.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwx8iIBhBwEiwA2quaq258r5CElEXHfvymaXm3xPnRApioPaVADNbCfuSveafIUHW4lVS_ThoCG88QAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjwx8iIBhBwEiwA2quaq258r5CElEXHfvymaXm3xPnRApioPaVADNbCfuSveafIUHW4lVS_ThoCG88QAvD_BwE& Or ATG/Pixel TF-321 www.amazon.com/Pixel-Flash-Adapter-Extra-Flashguns/dp/B00554PCDG/ref=asc_df_B00554PCDG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309770125437&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18296308144350363508&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007581&hvtargid=pla-570447325643&psc=1 I had mine flashes modified from ATG or still have some from ATG, to shoot wirelessly.
There are battery packs you can recharge or packs where you put AAA batteries in. Don't know if these rechargeable packs are still working, the flash is pretty old.
The standard rule is about 2 stops on a normal indoor ceiling height - George's f22 was 3 stops above the f8 he used previously so that should work well. Although if you're not shooting medium format best to stick below f22 as 35mm lenses are rarely at their best by that point
@@bebox7 I just got a sunpak 522 flash. It has a light that lets you know if your exposure is okay at any particular setting just by pressing the test button.
You are confusing Auto mode with Manual mode. What you say is true for Manual, but Auto mode (like TTL) takes care of it, and he is using Auto in this video.
There's nothing like Vitamin M (Metz) for making life interesting. That reminds me, Ye Olde Metz 60 CT-1 has been stored in an old camera bag for a while...
Not a fan of these 'behemoth' flashes but I like Metz flashes otherwise, really nice aesthetically and last forever. Shame most of them are extortionate now.
If u want to make flash softer then you have to increase the size of the light source relative to the subject. A softbox works because it is a bigger light source than a flashgun pointing directly at the subject. Thats why bounced flash is softer, your whole ceiling becomes the light souce. Putting a cloth over the flash head and pointing the flash directly at the subject won't make the light softer, just weaker. But don't just take my word for it, look it up.
Or just look at the the quality of the shadow and realize it actually did soften the light. You know why? because the light source did actually become bigger as it was beaming through the entirety of the fabric. But don't just take my word for it, look at it.
the most serene channel on youtube, so comforting
Solid jump and clap, should secure me a future feature
can we just take a second to appreciate how aesthetically pleasing this is
OMG FIRST GEORGE I LUV U
Lol
Matt Day that's what's great about RUclips ; photographers discovering other photographers and potentially collaborating with them in the future.
can't you guys just collab already??? your audiences love you!! and will either of you do a lengthy discussion about the controversy around editing film with software?? everyone ignores it or dances around it. we want to know how the pros go about it. LOVE YOU GUYS!!
b k pretty simple honestly, there is no downside of editing film photos on software. Create what your mind envisions despite the medium
no down side?? yes there is. it's more of a philosophical downside. you make the (kinda laborious) effort to go the film route because you value the art of the film process and the product but then you negate it by using digital software. it's gilding the lily. why grow a beautiful flower when you just dose it in gold? why not just use a digital camera all together? i agree that sometimes you can't tell the difference in the product (except one has pixels and the other has grain) but why even do film then?
A lot of people here asking if it can be used on this or that camera. I think they are worried it is not the same make as their camera. Metz are an independent flash unit maker and designed this to be used with any camera of its time, which was the film era, as long as it has a flash sync socket, usually marked "X". Be more cautious about connecting it to a digital camera though.
I have a Sunpak 522 which is a very similar type of flash to the Metz. I have a hot shoe adapter with pc sync port so I can use it with cameras that don't have one. I've had good results using it with an Olympus om10.
@@robertknight4672 The 522 was also sold as the 3600, the latter in European markets (the manual used metric distances). 36 is the guide number in metres. Sunpak made some pro-grade flash units like these and were Metz's main rival, both now gone from the market. It is a shame that hammerheads went out of fashion too - I don't trust a heavy unit on a camera hotshoe. Beware the 522 might have too high a voltage for a modern camera.
Picking up this flash with a Mamiya 645 soon...Thanks for this!
8/10 for pigeon scaring technique Reuben
I'll take it
the filming in this is proper tasty
yeah baby
Louis Bryant gorgeous building shots
I love that you’re licking your lips rolph ya dirty beggar
perverts, perverts every where
Was looking for a good flash for my Mamiya 7, and came across this video randomly...thanks a lot!
the flash turned to the side looks sick :o
Ferenc Bodor flashes always look better off to the side and slightly above. Unless you are shooting plants or rock and want more detail. Than at 3 or 9 o clock adds details. Always use your flash OFF the camera (meaning not stuck to the top of it, which is the worst lighting).
The indoor shots you did remind me a lot of Irving Pen when you placed Reuben in a corner.
bouncing the flash it to the right provide the best light balance, my thoughs
Worst part is that this video is gonna make the flash so much more expensive it's already gone up form 40 to 70 quid
Love the vid! The photograph behind you remind me of Richard Misrach "Desert cantos" photogrphs 🙂
pleeease try a night version!!!!
I'd always had a personal notion that using a flash is a dreadful sin but this video has shown me that I've probably just been using the wrong flash. Thanks, I'm gonna look into this flash for some of my 35mm work.
I agree with you. I use to throw up the cross when I saw flashes but now after seeing videos on the metz flash system, I think I've changed my mind.
You can switch off the smaller fill in flash, then use the main head for bounce light.
Yes.
The secondary flash is very useful for people wearing glasses or women wear hats on bright outdoors.
Well that lit up my day.
He reminds me of Geoff Rowley. Excellent videos thank you.
Now we wait for the inevitable price jump for said flash....
Only kidding! Great stuff as always!
JJ Boettcher Yeah, they're already up for nearer £70 on eBay!
Nice
Thank you for putting this together for us to see how powerful the flash is before purchasing even though I just bought one an hour ago lol
Yeah baby
Louis Bryant i
Is that a Clifton Barker pigeon shot?
Finally! Was waiting for this notification! My fav channel right now
I don't use film that much anymore or any flash work BUT I still love this video and your other videos! Keep up the great stuff!
Update! U reminded of how bleeding amazing this is. I’m using it now on a 2x3 sheet film Graflex. Carl Zeiss Lens PC sync using A auto thyrister
dope! you think this will work on mamiya 6 as well?
may get one of these :O
for the future could you possibly do a comprehensive film+flash/lighting tutorial? I waste many a shot :D
May I know how did you set your shutter speed?
Your shutter speed would help control the ambient light (the existing light in the environment). So if you wanted more of the ambient light, you could use a lower shutter speed. If you use a higher shutter speed, most of the light will come from the flash--make sure that you *don't* choose a shutter speed higher than the flash sync speed of your camera, or part of your frame will be black. What you could do is use your camera's meter to help you decide. If you want *mostly* flash, but a little bit of the ambient light, maybe set your shutter speed to twice as fast or even four times faster (2 stops) than what the meter says you should use. The flash will make sure your subject is properly exposed, but by using a shutter speed that's not *too* high, you'll get some of the room light in. You could also use the ambient light as your main exposure, but use the flash as "fill" light, to brighten up the shadows a bit. To do that, use your camera's meter (or you can always use an external meter) to set the camera to expose the film properly. Then "lie" to the flash, and tell it you're using a wider aperture than you really are. For example, if you're going to use F8 to shoot at, on top of the flash tell it you're shooting at F5.6 or even F4 (if you're wanting even less fill). (You could lie about the ISO too/instead, for more precise control, but for right now, let's not go there.) The flash, thinking you're going to shoot at F5.6, kicks out only half as much light as it would if it knew you were actually shooting at F8 (if you set it for F4, it would provide only ¼ the light). So your main exposure will be the ambient light, which you've set the camera to expose properly. But the flash will give you a little extra light going straight into the shadows and brightening them, and/or giving a bit of "pop" to your subject if it's a dull, overcast day. Sorry fo the long reply, I hope that made sense and was helpful!
@@rulnacco It is very detailed and clear. It is definitely helpful! Thanks!
@@hongtaowu1127 You're definitely welcome--good luck!
When you use a flash for day light photography. Its called Synchro sun. The flash fill in for shadow for photography. It make the photo look great.
I've never heard of that term. In America most people just call it Fill Flash. The manuals what's my Vivitar and sunpak flashes all use the term fill Flash. I've heard of the term slow Synchro which some point and shoot cameras refer to as night portrait mode.
Amazing flash. What did U compare it to when shopping or testing? I have an old Nikon SB-11 that is similar. Its the F3P dedicated but used in PC sync auto thyristor. I use it on everything I use. Can even be TTL adapted to modern Nikon of the film days
I'll probably try this flash on my Sony. Thanks for this episode! 📸
That metz 60 Ct4 is an awesome flash. It was the best flash for me when I used to shoot events with film cameras. This video brings back great memories! Great work George!
I have a similar flash that I got with a toy Japanese camera. Great stuff.
Thanks George great video
George, your channel is a huge inspiration. Just ordered the third issue of negative feedback to get some more ideas. Maybe you could experiment a bit with different filters for black and white photography in one of your next videos? cheers
nice job, thanks for the video
Great video. Interesting to see the under exposure in the bottom third of the frame on a lot of shots - I wonder where that is coming from?
Love ur work
there is a darker line on the bottom of almost every picture, maybe it can be avoided if you turn the head of the flash a little down (my similar Metz had that movement, but I'm not sure)
nice video folks!
What films were used?
Hey George, great video.
Just one thing one MUST consider on these old Metz flashguns : They have voltages around 200V when fully loaded on the PC socket ! There is a hack with a TRIAC ( for those who know on wich side the soldering iron is dangerous ;-) ) that makes these beasts compatible with newer gear. But I would definetely not advice these flashes on a mirrorless or something like that. When these flashes were put on the market, most cameras had mechanical contacts wich can easily handle these voltages and even more current for flashbulbs. Think this could be important if You don't want to fry the electronic circuits in the camera. Cheers !
www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html says 14-25 volts for these things. Not in the 200V league but still a bit dodgy. Anway, why do you say mirrorless? The warning applies to most electronic cameras, ie made from about 1990, even film cameras.
would this flash work with a 35mm camera like the Nikon fm2?
Sorry no one's replied yet--but yes it would! And it would work very well. You'd have to use the Auto function of the flash, but all you'd have to do with the dial on top would be to tell the flash the speed (ISO) of the film you are using, and the aperture you've set on the lens. (You could use the flash's Manual mode, too, but that would involve either using a flash meter, or knowing how to use something called guide numbers to calculate your exposure.) The flash is rather big and heavy for the relatively small FM2, but it will function totally fine. And it will work great on bigger, heavier cameras (like a medium format camera, as he was using in the video). It will *also* work fine on a a DSLR in Auto mode, as long as your digital camera has the sync port to plug the cable in that triggers the flash. Most higher-end DSLRs have them, while for some cheaper ones (and probably most mirrorless cameras) you'd need an adapter to slide in the hot shoe to use them. Your FM2 already has the sync port on the front of the camera.
That is exactly the type of camera this flash was designed for!
If you still having problem on using it correctly, please reply with your email
@@rulnacco Hi, Im having some troubles understand how to use the Metz 45CL-4 with my Nikon FM2. Is there any chance I could contact you?
@@CVProductions Not sure how to share e-mail addresses on here--or that I'd want to publicly. It's really not hard: (1) Bolt the flash to the camera. (2) You need the cable that connects the PC sync port on the camera to the flash; plug it in. (3) On top of the flash, set the ISO of the film you're using by turning the central black knob until the arrow points at the correct ISO, which is shown in blue. (4) Decide what aperture you want to shoot at, and set that on the flash by turning the clear plastic dial until the arrow points at that aperture, shown in green (make sure your lens aperture does match what you've set on the flash). (5) Set your camera's shutter speed to 1/125 second or less (that *is* the max sync speed on an FM2, right?); the slower you set the shutter speed, the more of the background light you'll let in. You should now be in fully auto mode, and it won't matter if you point the flash directly at your subject or bounce it off the ceiling (assuming the ceiling isn't really high or painted black) you should get pretty good exposure doing that. You *can* use the flash's manual modes, too, but I wouldn't do that, I'd stick with auto mode, unless you understand guide numbers and have read and thoroughly understand the manual for the flash. (It's also possible, by setting a smaller aperture on your camera than on the flash to trick it into doing fill flash, but again, for right now, it's probably just best to follow steps 1-5 above, and you should be good to go.
3:33 the cloud should be normally "explosed" lol :D
when using this flash do you keep the shutter speed on 60? this is what i’ve done with other flashes that clip on top of my camera but when i do it with this my cameras internal light meter doesn’t show the shutter speed at 60, its as if it doesn’t recognise the flash is connected
The Mamiya C330 Pro S I bought last week came with this flash. I'll have to source a new battery pack for mine, as both of the NiMH packs are wasted.
I had the same flash back in my film days paired with a Nikon F801. So regret getting rid of the Metz.
Can anyone help me find the track that starts at 3:00?
No.
You for got to tell what is the best shutter speed for you camera.
anybody got experience of this flash on an RZ67? Does it work fine?
yes it works well with the RZ - www.sarahhannam.com/portraits/bo0dvqmjoljlyhkc2n45uq5tqjc1rl the guy on the bike was shot using the RZ with the Metz CL-4 flash
Can I use this flash on my a6400? love the aspect and the style it gives..
No, it doesnt work with digital cameras
Of course you can you just need a hotshoe cable. I use mine all the time on my digital Camera
Hey George, love your videos! I just got passed down a Voigtlander Perkeo ii and have no idea how to use it, any help?
Have you tried developing black & white film in Rodinal?
Where's the estate you shot this in?
What strength should I use when shooting in daylight with the Metz?
Keep your 'explosures' normal people - Gergo
I love when my clouds are normally explosed!
found a metz ct-5 from a thrift shop,
what do you guys think about it?
it has a cool red lcd
thanks for the review. I thought I can use Metz 45-cl4 only for digital cameras. may I ask can I use it for all kind of film cameras? like my Nikon Nikkormat FTN, EL, EF, FG, F65, F100, F80 and like that? I have all of those cameras. that is why the question. one anohter question. can I use also Metz 45 cl-3 for film cameras? thanks in advance
Dan, use Google - all the answers are online. Clue: the Metz 45 series started WELL before digital photography.
Hi NegativeFeedback ! great vid :) Is it possible to meet you in person in London ? :)
Hello, I love your work. I want to know if it works with mamiya rz 67 with just the sync cable? or do you need some other adaptador? im afraid to damage my camera.
thank you
You have no problem using it with your Mamiya RX67 with a sync cable to yours PC Sync Socket.
Reply back with your email here if you need more assistants.
does this flash work on the canon a1 ?
Bought one of those cheap eBay 6-AA battery holders, but I can hear flash wanting to charge, but ready light never comes on. Also, battery pack gets very warm. Any ideas?
After cycling between on and off, first just a few seconds, then successively longer periods, it finally, after sitting on for almost ten minutes, showed a ready light. After then leaving it on until charged, then shutting it off, then repeating after several minutes, many times, it now will initially charge after about a minute, then recycle after another 45 seconds. Hopefully, with fresher batteries, it will get even better. It would be a shame having to trash this fine flash.
REPLY
I know this might be a dumb question but what about the shutter speed does that matter for proper exposure ?
With a focal plane shutter (most [D]SLRs) you need to set it to the sync speed or slower. With a leaf shutter (most rangefinders and some medium format) it can be anything but not faster than about 1/500 sec.
Hi, i just bought a nikon fe2 and i have already a metz 45ct-5 but with pc sync cable only. what kinf of cable and adapter for the hot shoe i need to make ttl work, thx
Okay, that's a bit complicated, and you're going to have to search around--probably eBay, unless you're lucky like I was when I lived in South London and there was an ancient camera shop with loads of old bits and bobs lying about, which is where I got most of my Metz stuff. According to this chart (www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/charts/comp_metzflash_nikon_2.html) at B&H, you need two bits: the Metz SCA 343 and the Metz SCA 300A. B&H no longer stocks them new--Metz went bankrupt a while back--but their website shows what the two parts look like. The SCA 343 is here (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/35023-REG/Metz_MZ_5483_SCA_343_Dedicated_Module.html) and the SCA 300A is here (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/35024-REG/Metz_MZ_5484_SCA_300A_System_Adapter.html). Good luck!
@@rulnacco Thank you :-)
@@AlainLafleche1 You're quite welcome!
You will get better results doing & shooting ATG Auto2 (wirelessly) with ATG's Metz 45CT-5.
The last from ATG were the ATG Gold 60CT-4s and Metz 60CT-4 (ATG/Metz world's powerful flash).
Could you explain guide numbers on flashes??? I have wanted to use a fill flash for a while now on my rangefinders but
1. I don't shoot digital anymore, so I cant review any shots on the spot
2. My trusty Weston meter cant see the flash burst cos its incident/reflective only, and
3. My brain is a bit small and cant wrap my head around this dilemma :(
Ohhhh, boy! Now *that* is a can of worms. And involves having good mental math skills, or a calculator. Okay, guide numbers for a flash are *usually* (I don't want to say always) based on ISO 100 film. And it pays to know if the guide number you're looking at is in feet or meters. The Metz 45 CL-4 has a guide number of *148 feet* for ISO 100 film at full power. So here's how it works: you have to know the distance that you are from whatever it is you want to light with your flash. If you're shooting a film camera, the lens *probably* has a distance scale, so you could focus first and read the distance, if you don't want to "guesstimate." Then, you divide the guide number by the distance, which will give you the aperture you should use. So let's say the group of people you're shooting is 10 feet away. 148/10 = 14.8, so you could set your aperture on F16, which is the closest aperture to 14.8. As that would leave your film *slightly* underexposed, I'd probably set it midway between F11 and F16, and with negative film you'll be very close. Now, if you're not shooting 100 speed film, or you're not using the flash on full power, you'll need to make compensation. So if, say, you're using 200 ISO film, the guide number would double to 296 (theoretically; lots of times, theory doesn't quite match up with real-world results). If you're using ISO 100 film but shooting the flash at ½ power, the guide number would be 74. And so on. I you're *bouncing* the flash, all of this goes right out of the window, and you're better off using a flash meter or the flash's Auto mode. Hope that made sense and was helpful.
Does anyone has a link to one of those flashmounts? Just don't know how to find one (has to be for a Hasselblad and Nikon f90, but that shouldn't make any difference - right?)
I bought the flash a week ago on Ebay (Germany) and have seen a couple mounts for sale: www.ebay.de/itm/Metz-Blitzschiene-45-CT-4-und-60-CT-4-u-a-Modelle-von-Metz/402197512904?hash=item5da4d702c8:g:w50AAOSwhYZeOvQ2&redirect=mobile
What camera you use makes no difference, you adjust the screw's position and it should fit. I'm using the flash with a Fuji GW690III. Just for fun I even put a small point and shot camera on it, looked ridiculous but worked. A late answer but I hope it helps.
Try Ebay. You should have got a bracket with the flash (don't buy one without) but somehow some people lose them. But for the Hasselblad you'd be better with a bracket meant for medium format, and they are like finding hens' teeth.
I would like to ask, how do people print zines? I mean like the pictures themselves, are they printed the same way as normal prints ? If yes, why are zines so much cheaper than prints ?
nice❤
I'm really interested in getting into film photography but I do not have a large budget at all (up to £500 if I save up for maybe a year, but realistically about £200-£300). I was wondering what would be a good starting camera for someone who wants to get into film photography but doesn't have the money for a camera like the Mamiya 7. I adore your videos and photography, especially how much I can learn from them about film photography as well as the style of image I prefer. There's something about film that has a lot more emotion and brutal realism to it than digital photography can capture.
That's all very well, but how the hell do you know what settings? There's naff-all on the web.
how do you set the shutter speed when shooting with flash?
Depending on your camera, which you did not add on the question.
Most are 1/60 (set Shutter to 60 or under).
Then you set the flash into ATG Auto2 modes.
Am I able to use the Metz 45 ct-4 on a canon f1 old version the “lake placid 1980” version? Anyone know please message back would appreciate it 👌
Looks like it has a pc synch, so it should work.
does this flash works with a Polaroid Land Camera ?
any differences with this and the digital version?
What about the CT-4 instead of CL-4?
They're very similar, really--this gentleman does an excellent and detailed job of summarising the differences & advantages/disadvantages: strobeex.blogspot.com/2014/12/metz-45-ct1-ct3-ct4-ct5-cl1-cl3-cl4-cl4.html
Both will work:
CL-4 is a newer model that has available ATG TTL adapter for many camera models.
Has anyone noticed how the price for the flash went up now? :/
65mm lens for 6x7, with this flash, you really need the wide-angle diffuser.
Not really. You can bounce the head up & have a index white card in the back of the flash.
What is the cable you use to connect the flash to the Mamiya 7ii?
PC sync cable
ATG/Metz PC Sync Cable. Not just a regular PC Sync Cable
@@angelisone do I need a sync cable to use flash on mamiya 6?
@@diegourbina6371 Yes. You will need to get the ATG/Metz PC Sync Cable & Hotshoe Adapter.
You must get the pc sync cable for your flash model, because they are not the same.
ATG has a special with Adorama for Adorama Camera PC to Hot Shoe Adapter (FAPCHSA) just $5.00 (they are going fast).
Then you need a Metz's PC Sync Cable made for your flash model.
Once you have those two. Connect pc sync cable to flash & other end connect to adapter.
Place adapter on camera's hotshoe & set camera's shutter speed to flash sync speed.
www.adorama.com/fapchsa.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwx8iIBhBwEiwA2quaq258r5CElEXHfvymaXm3xPnRApioPaVADNbCfuSveafIUHW4lVS_ThoCG88QAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjwx8iIBhBwEiwA2quaq258r5CElEXHfvymaXm3xPnRApioPaVADNbCfuSveafIUHW4lVS_ThoCG88QAvD_BwE&
Or ATG/Pixel TF-321
www.amazon.com/Pixel-Flash-Adapter-Extra-Flashguns/dp/B00554PCDG/ref=asc_df_B00554PCDG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309770125437&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18296308144350363508&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007581&hvtargid=pla-570447325643&psc=1
I had mine flashes modified from ATG or still have some from ATG, to shoot wirelessly.
Hello everyone, will this work on the leica m6?
Yes. Run the Metz PC Sync Cable to M6's PC Sync Socket
What film did you use for this shoot?
What a nice Fleshlight.. err fvck I meant Flashligt ofc, mb..
I'm seeing myself out then...
interesting!
I think this video caused some inflation on the price of the Metz! ahah great video
What batteries does this flash use?
There are battery packs you can recharge or packs where you put AAA batteries in. Don't know if these rechargeable packs are still working, the flash is pretty old.
@@gangleri1358 It uses AA batteries, not AAA, if that is your option..
You can using the following:
1. ATG Gold Battery Pack
2. ATG/Quantum Battery Pack
3. ATG 7.2V Battery (modified)
4. Six AA batteries
GERGGGOOOOOOOOOOOO
First mount the rail under the camera,
then slide on the flah
and secure it.
get this guy a shirt of his size
if some day i can take pictures like U, my life would be perfect
Best channel ever
god bless
When you're bouncing non ttl flash you want to add a stop of light assuming whatever you're bouncing off of is the same distance as your subject.
The standard rule is about 2 stops on a normal indoor ceiling height - George's f22 was 3 stops above the f8 he used previously so that should work well. Although if you're not shooting medium format best to stick below f22 as 35mm lenses are rarely at their best by that point
@@bebox7 I just got a sunpak 522 flash. It has a light that lets you know if your exposure is okay at any particular setting just by pressing the test button.
You are confusing Auto mode with Manual mode. What you say is true for Manual, but Auto mode (like TTL) takes care of it, and he is using Auto in this video.
There's nothing like Vitamin M (Metz) for making life interesting. That reminds me, Ye Olde Metz 60 CT-1 has been stored in an old camera bag for a while...
Will this flashy guy work on my Leica M6?
Yes, you would need a PC Sync Cable with a standard hotshoe adapter.
It's called a flash sync lead or cable.
Reuben is so dreamy …
Not a fan of these 'behemoth' flashes but I like Metz flashes otherwise, really nice aesthetically and last forever. Shame most of them are extortionate now.
"extortionate"? No they aren't. Metz 45 flashes are stupidly affordable.
"explosed" - g. muncey
I have an Asahi Pentax SP500, does this flash works on it?
Any older film camera will work with it as long as it has an X sync socket.
Do this flash take good photos in a Cannon AE-1!?
Yes