What a lesson! My favoirte light is what you call the "painter" look of the small brighter light source in front of the much larger and slightly dimmer one.
I used an active and none active fill quite a lot in the studio, wrote a blog post on it a while ago for the lighting company I work with. I also use my 170cm Octa behind me a fair bit. It has been a while since I shot hard light with soft chaser from same direction ... will have to run that again as I quite like the result. Fill can really elevate your work. Great video John.
This is by far one of the most comprehensive lighting video if watched, Facts and information that inspire experimentation, Kudos! I've kept this open since you posted and have watched it several times because it is worth several views, TU!
What a masterclass! Thank you soo much for sharing your experience and work! I'm learning tons about elegant lighting because of your videos. You have a big fan here in Brazil!
Thanks for the thorough tutorial. It got me thinking about modeling lights in strobe units. I mostly use small battery power strobe lights for location portrait sessions. Due to the limitation on my lights, I do not use the modeling lights. It got me thinking what impact does not using a modeling light play when you need to evaluate the shadow or fill areas. Obviously not using modeling lights, limits my ability to see the light pattern. Just some thoughts that come to mind as I watched your video. Thanks again. -Jim
Thanks Jim, Because the modeling lamp is in the strobes, they're going to project light the same way those lights do. If the strobes are on very low power and the modeling lights are on at 100% brightness, I could see them theoretically having an impact on the exposure, but I haven't seen it happen myself.
@@JohnGress Thanks John for the thoughtful reply. Like you say, the modeling light will not have any effect on the light in my photo. I don't want to confuse the purpose of your video. I meant to say that I should consider using modeling lights to evaluate the light patterns before I take a photo. I often need to take photos without a tether set up. My only way to evaluate the image is by viewing it on the back of my DSLR. The modeling light should help me preview all the light in my composition. Your video illustrates fill light very well and it got me thinking about my workflow and how to further improve the lighting. Again thanks for the great video. All best! -Jim
I started with your backdrops video and am making my way through every video you’ve made. All such great, well thought out content! For the image in this video at 2:43 when you use the Mole Richardson lights, is the light actually on? Or do you add that in later? Asking bc (a) the wire doesn’t look plugged in and (b) I scored some on marketplace and did t realize turning even one on would blow my breakers 🙈. So for now I stick a flash unit inside. I’m curious how you handle yours.
Thank you so much! If you have a 2K you can get a 1K bulb and that will help to prevent you blowing the fuse, depending on what ever else you have plugged in too. However, for the past few years I have been placing a 125ws strobe with a CTO gel inside of my lights.
Great video with great detail. I have a question about using a light meter. I use a Sekonic L308 flash meter. In fact I have a question on that, because other RUclips presenters have shown different ways to use a basic flash meter. By that I mean some say point the meter to the light and others say to point the meter to the camera. What is your take on this and WHY?
I actually asked an older photographer last week if one of these approaches was considered the right way to do things and he said there wasn’t an accepted rule with regard to where you point it. To me it seems like you should point it at the light so you’re reading what the light is doing and not mixing that in with what the shadows are doing.
John, I would really appreciate it if you made a video about that sort of strong tripod you put your camera on. How does it work? Did you buy it? Did you make it? How is it called? Where can I get one? Thank you.
Incredible video. You are the king of lighting!
Wow, thanks Josh!
Very clearly presented and helpful video. Thank you!
Thank you Peter🙏🏼
What a lesson! My favoirte light is what you call the "painter" look of the small brighter light source in front of the much larger and slightly dimmer one.
Thanks Bob! Glad you enjoyed it. 🙏🏼😊🙏🏼
I used an active and none active fill quite a lot in the studio, wrote a blog post on it a while ago for the lighting company I work with.
I also use my 170cm Octa behind me a fair bit. It has been a while since I shot hard light with soft chaser from same direction ... will have to run that again as I quite like the result.
Fill can really elevate your work.
Great video John.
Thanks Richard! I am stealing that hard light with a soft chaser line!
@@JohnGress No worries. Go for it. 😄
What a fantastic video. Immediately applicable info. Thanks!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Phil sure is a great guy, thanks for introducing him JG
Hell be loyal for life!
Definitely one of my favorite videos so far, been looking for a good breakdown of the differences and purposes of the different types of fill
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
This is by far one of the most comprehensive lighting video if watched, Facts and information that inspire experimentation, Kudos! I've kept this open since you posted and have watched it several times because it is worth several views, TU!
Wow. Thank you so much! I’m glad it was helpful. 😊🙌🏼😊
We just found you and it's so good to find someone that still does it right! Love your work and the attention to your craft.
Thank you so much!
What a masterclass! Thank you soo much for sharing your experience and work! I'm learning tons about elegant lighting because of your videos.
You have a big fan here in Brazil!
Muito Obrigado! 😊😊😊
thanks John, nice topic and presentation
Thanks Dan!
This is fantastic! Now do the one for chasing waterfalls! 😂
Thanks! Stick to the rivers and lakes that you’re used to!
@@JohnGress 😂😂😂
Thanks for the thorough tutorial. It got me thinking about modeling lights in strobe units. I mostly use small battery power strobe lights for location portrait sessions. Due to the limitation on my lights, I do not use the modeling lights. It got me thinking what impact does not using a modeling light play when you need to evaluate the shadow or fill areas. Obviously not using modeling lights, limits my ability to see the light pattern. Just some thoughts that come to mind as I watched your video. Thanks again. -Jim
Thanks Jim, Because the modeling lamp is in the strobes, they're going to project light the same way those lights do. If the strobes are on very low power and the modeling lights are on at 100% brightness, I could see them theoretically having an impact on the exposure, but I haven't seen it happen myself.
@@JohnGress Thanks John for the thoughtful reply. Like you say, the modeling light will not have any effect on the light in my photo. I don't want to confuse the purpose of your video. I meant to say that I should consider using modeling lights to evaluate the light patterns before I take a photo. I often need to take photos without a tether set up. My only way to evaluate the image is by viewing it on the back of my DSLR. The modeling light should help me preview all the light in my composition. Your video illustrates fill light very well and it got me thinking about my workflow and how to further improve the lighting. Again thanks for the great video. All best! -Jim
Great video and very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!🙏🏼
Great job sir!
Thank you kindly!
I started with your backdrops video and am making my way through every video you’ve made. All such great, well thought out content! For the image in this video at 2:43 when you use the Mole Richardson lights, is the light actually on? Or do you add that in later? Asking bc (a) the wire doesn’t look plugged in and (b) I scored some on marketplace and did t realize turning even one on would blow my breakers 🙈. So for now I stick a flash unit inside. I’m curious how you handle yours.
Thank you so much! If you have a 2K you can get a 1K bulb and that will help to prevent you blowing the fuse, depending on what ever else you have plugged in too. However, for the past few years I have been placing a 125ws strobe with a CTO gel inside of my lights.
Great Video!!
Thanks!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks alot for this sir👌🙏🙏🔥
Thanks Simon!
Great video with great detail. I have a question about using a light meter. I use a Sekonic L308 flash meter. In fact I have a question on that, because other RUclips presenters have shown different ways to use a basic flash meter. By that I mean some say point the meter to the light and others say to point the meter to the camera. What is your take on this and WHY?
I actually asked an older photographer last week if one of these approaches was considered the right way to do things and he said there wasn’t an accepted rule with regard to where you point it. To me it seems like you should point it at the light so you’re reading what the light is doing and not mixing that in with what the shadows are doing.
Thank you too!
When you take a light outside, to keep a natural look would you recommend HSS or keeping it in manual?
Both will work just fine. But most importantly, monitor the flash output to make sure you aren't adding too much.
@@JohnGress curious to know what was your setting and flash output on those location settings
Pretty good video, I though.
John, I would really appreciate it if you made a video about that sort of strong tripod you put your camera on. How does it work? Did you buy it? Did you make it? How is it called? Where can I get one? Thank you.
Here is the short answer. I love it! =): Studio Titan Camera Stand STA-01-360 MK2
Adorama howl.me/cjGcfVD3aCG
B&H bhpho.to/3cf4RfL
we also mention it in this live stream ruclips.net/user/liveWQTuOSK63e0
@@JohnGress Thank you, I'll check it out.