I've been using two S1's for a while now. I modified them with a blower fan with 40c thermal switch, relocated thermistor, and temp/rh meter. Because of the relocated thermistor, they can get up to and maintain 60c.
Excellent! But why are Chinese products always seem to have been designed and sold in a rush, without thoroughly engineering attention, requiring us customers to modify them in a way they should have been built in the first place, so they work better (or "just work" by the way)?
@@fluxcapacitor they did bring out a new model this year with a fan and some other changes, I really hope it gets tested because it looks like it has what most people were asking for. The Eibos ones perform well, but also have some quirks… this shouldn’t be so complicated 😂
Hi, Another very useful video on dryers. Seems the S2 is a nice increment over the S1. Lack of fans is good in terms of decibels. Being able to dry to PET-G silently, can be enough for most people :) I will be looking for its price, once it is on public sale. Thanks. Hope your channel will continue to grow. PS: Your substantial and honest style is so relaxing, in this artificial and superficial world. Many people are not able to appreciate it. Despite that, please do not change.
Considering the DIY route with a food dryer as well. This said, most are round (the cheap ones) and if you like to feed to the printer it is usually unwinded in a horizontal position. I do not like that, so I am considering to mount a plastic box on top and hanging the spools vertically. Multiple spools should be no problem. Some holes for venting or space for filament would be easy mods as well. Experiments done here on your channel are great to find the weak spots and improve upon with some DIY with a cheap 250W dryer. Looking forward for your DIY and measurements.
At first, I thought the design choice is really confusing, but the I saw the heater and it make sense. The shape also save material as well as manufacturing cost. The second heater is most likely added to cope up with uneven heating in S1. With the surrounded heater design, there shouldn't be a cold spot, and in worst case, the outer coils of the filament will get dried evenly. But stagnant air is still a good insulator, lack of air flow means the overall heating time is longer, and the heater reach max temp quickly and the power output is throttled.
Great content. Excited for when you can upgrade your microphones, hopefully a lav mic for the demonstrations - and a condenser mic for your narration parts
Sorry about that, my microphones are better than in this video sounds, especially when I narrated the results. Later I noticed mic was party unplugged.
There's a reason why the measured temperature must be the one of the heater. You usually set the temp just bellow the glass transition temperature for your filament , if the heating element went above that temperature you would risk deforming the filament on the places where it sits near the heater. So you must make sure the heater never goes above the set temperature.
I would like to see some kind of centralized exhaust fan on the back to pull out that humidity instead of keeping it trapped in the housing. Also, it might help distribute the heat - despite venting it out, but if kept on a low quiet speed, maybe we might not have a lot of heat loss. I'm sure people can mod one, but just a thought for the future. It looks like with the dual heat plates, the entire roll will be radiated anyways. I really like the design of the S2, I'm tempted to get one.
Better would be to have a fan push colder air in from the bottom, thereby raising pressure (and temperature, but only minimal) in the chamber. Then there should be channels at the top leading air back to the bottom ideally through a radiator exchanging energy with the cold incoming air and collecting the resulting condensation and finally leading the now-not-so-hot air out. Now, all that sounds very complex, so I think the better solution is still a normal food dehydrator: significant heating on 240VAC and a decent fan pushing in the hot air and some vent holes at the top letting out the hot moist air (and losing some heat and hence efficiency). I don't understand why all these companies are focussing on DC heating and fans. Ok, for the fans there is the noise argument of the cheap AC mechanisms in food dehydrators, put they do push a decent amount of air, which for this application does also help drying stuff.
Weird, why do all these designs fail to offer a mechanism that would allow the moisture to get out. Heating the environment only allows for the air to take up more moisture, but once it has taken up that moisture, you want to get rid of the now moist air. That likely means you'll also lose some of the heat, so a smart mechanism to get rid of the moist while retaining most heat (ex. exchanging heat between the moist air going out and incoming air in a neighbouring channel) would be the killer feature for something like this. In absence of such smarts, having venting at the top and extra power heating up the bottom would probably be better than trying to heat from bottom and top...
@ As mentioned, letting out the moist air by leaving a small gap also means losing heat and with the low-power DC heaters in these designs, that typically means you no longer hit the temperature needed to allow the moisture to exit the filament. The simple food dehydrators do have small venting holes at the top to let out some of the moist warm air and their AC heaters have a better chance of keeping things warm enough. Also, designs like the one here, when left open with a gap will typically have that gap near the middle, whereas the hot moist air will normally accumulate near the top, so the designs provided are also not ideal for "leaving a small gap".
@@MisterkeTube This is exactly why I haven't bought one of these yet. To mitigate moisture I don't keep many rolls on hand. I try to print with one or two colors. I try to keep them in a bag with desiccant until I need them. Or I just live with a few pops here and there. I've been able to adjust my settings to help with popping.
i have flashforge creator3 printer, PLA ABS PETG ASA CPE Nylon with carbon no problem but i have some old TPU with was stored in vckumm bug but i thin this filaments is wet , i try to dry in oven then in some dryer but still have problem and i have problem with nylon shrinking
I wonder if adding some very small ventilation holes. Both in the bottom and top of the box. In order to facilitate natural convection air flow. Would potentially improve the drying performance. With the box being sealed, the air inside will reach saturation and no longer do any drying. You have to get rid of the moisture somehow.
Worth a small follow up video on the revised version with the fan? Also people recommend leaving it open a crack to vent, would be great to see an actual test is stead of hearsay!
Besides the missing fan, this looks like the best filament dryer around. I'm not a fan of the looks though... but that is personal of course. PS: Thank you for the fantastic reviews, they are appreciated :)
You do not need an all-metal one. The cheapest food dehydrator (with sufficient volume for a spool) would probably outperform these DC filament dryers. The only problem I had with mine was that its actual temperatures were a lot lower than the temperature set (which was especially problematic at the maximum of its dial, i.e. 70C). I added a small potentiometer on one of the leads of the thermistor which allows me to offset its resistance and hence lower the (virtual) temperature the electronics measure. With that hack the device can now reach the advertised 70C (even if the offset isn't perfect as the resistance doesn't change linearly with temperature). Now, maybe an expensive all-metal food dehydrator also has better temperature control, making it useful, but metal also conducts heat much better than plastics, so for reaching only 70C on the inside, I don't think the price-uplift would be worth it.... Another drawback of a cheap food dehydrator is the noise. The fan is typically a very crude motor driven directly by AC and driving a quite large plastic disc pushing air across the heating element. Very functional, but at least in my model very noisy. Although the thing hangs on a bearing and some grease can quiet it down for a couple of hours, there's a rattle that always returns. Spending out on a more expensive model might reduce the noise level, but don't believe the specs on that, instead get user review input on the model you would consider.
I wonder if better insulation might of be more efficient than adding a second heater at the top as heat rises. Have you ever thought of designing your own DIY filament dryer and seeing how well it performs in these tests. Great video. Keep up the good work.
i have a S1, and modded with a fan which distributes the heat inside it cant reach 55°C any more because the casing also gets warm all around and looses heat. so i guess you are right: all those dryers lack either a fan and/or insulation.
The Cyclopes has the best drying capabilities. BUT if you want to dry only PLA, PETG or ABS, then any other is good. My favourites are Sovol and Eryone snail, because they have fan and they are quiet.
@@MyTechFun yes i have a bambulab p1p so i can only do pla petg and tpu with the open frame it has. which is fine with me so sovol and eryone snail should be perfect for me then but i am deff going with the sovol for the price and being able to do 2 rolls and plus i have a tube that goes in the center of the spool that holes desiccant and holds and locks so the spool doesnt pop open on my reusable ones so i think it should dry twice as fast with that in place with desiccant as well. Thanks!
Hi I dont understand your measurement values. Why does the relative humidity keep staying on such a constant level, regardless of the temperature, left sponge moisture and time?
How does these test hold up when you use filiaments? Testing a empty drier, which looks like was designed to make use small space for higher temperatures doesnt do it justice. Not a scientfice approach I am afraid.
what measurement error Obviously, the plate measures 70, so the closed interior will have close to or that temperature of 70. The 45 with fan will not reach more than 45. The measurements of the plate are the measurements that it will reach.
@@MyTechFun So with the eSun eBox lite, I could do PLA, ABS, and TPU? Which dryer would you choose? Eibos? It seems to get the best results, but it's hard for me to get in my location.
@@tomjoad6993 eBox Lite is good for PLA, ABS, PETG and TPU. For nylon no, to dry it but good enough to keep it dry during printing if you dry it in oven on higher temperatures (70-80°C)
i want to get me one for my bambulab p1s... i have the ams but tpu i have on the rear spool holder. because its not compatible with the ams... i want to put the sunlu on the side, i basically prefer the design of the s1 because the display is in front and i could put the machine next to the wall... but otherhand i prefer the features of the s2 but the display isnt accesable when its near a wall... cant really decide lol
Hi MTF These are some awesome videos you make I follow these on a regular basis! I find you incredibly skilled and creative which is a great inspiration and very useful for my knowledge and development in the 3D world! I do not want to be a firm patrion but I will bother to support you loosely along the way. You have set up an option for support through patrion and not other options. Is this something you could consider setting up an opportunity for me to support your excellent studies and inspiration.
Thank you for your kind words. I have other options for support, only I don't mention them all in every video. And a positive comment I also consider as support :-) www.mytechfun.com/donation
Just use a food dehydrator instead cheaper bigger and can go higher temperature, only need to do a little modification if you want to print straight from the dryer
@@李锦斌-g7i Some guy with a thermal camera showed how a fan effectively circulates hot air around the spool. ruclips.net/video/6FG4O5l9XpE/видео.html found it. I don't need to be an engineer to understand that a dryer with a fan is more effective. It just makes sense to me.
20-30. But in this test a lot of water evaporates and stuck in dryer. With filament you don't have so big amount of humidity. That's why it is important to let out the humidity from time to time, or use silica gel.
Measuring relative humidity doesn't make a sense here. When you increase a temperature RH will drop because hot air can hold more water without condensation. So it will show you low RH% but the amount of water is the same. It's kind of cheat - it looks like it is doing something. Try to cool this devidce with "dried" filament inside and observe RH%... :)
it still seems to work though. I put in a nearly full spool that has been sitting for years and the reading shot up. I had to manually vent the inside a few times to get rid of the moisture though...
The default for PLA was 50; he changed it to 70 and it saved that value. And yes, people do dry PLA, usually to make a spool that's a few years old useable.
s1's better tbh... a humidity sensor is useless, just measures humidity of the air inside.. useless for measuring the fila humidity.. heater on top also useless.. heat rises up..
check some other reviews that use infrared on filament. especially the ones that compare s1 with the mod. bottom heater just heats the filament at the bottom. it might heat up the whole spool, but nearly not as much at the top.
@@gligoran ye infrared filament's are nice. Sadly though I've found that heating the flament and letting it cool makes it absorb even more moisture than before. Heating it up only really useful if the filament is already "too wet" and saves it just enough for a final few prints. Before it becomes snap-happy.
I've been using two S1's for a while now. I modified them with a blower fan with 40c thermal switch, relocated thermistor, and temp/rh meter. Because of the relocated thermistor, they can get up to and maintain 60c.
Excellent! But why are Chinese products always seem to have been designed and sold in a rush, without thoroughly engineering attention, requiring us customers to modify them in a way they should have been built in the first place, so they work better (or "just work" by the way)?
@@fluxcapacitorthe chinese children are tierd sadly 😓
@@fluxcapacitor they did bring out a new model this year with a fan and some other changes, I really hope it gets tested because it looks like it has what most people were asking for. The Eibos ones perform well, but also have some quirks… this shouldn’t be so complicated 😂
Final results and plots at 16:29 and 16:44. Great work. Thanks!
I have the S1 and happy with it for TPU and PETG, looking forward to watching your review of the S2, thanks Igor!
Hi, Another very useful video on dryers.
Seems the S2 is a nice increment over the S1. Lack of fans is good in terms of decibels. Being able to dry to PET-G silently, can be enough for most people :) I will be looking for its price, once it is on public sale.
Thanks. Hope your channel will continue to grow.
PS: Your substantial and honest style is so relaxing, in this artificial and superficial world. Many people are not able to appreciate it. Despite that, please do not change.
I like this s2 much better, and If I ever get one of these, I'd use a printed silica holder in the center of the filament
Considering the DIY route with a food dryer as well. This said, most are round (the cheap ones) and if you like to feed to the printer it is usually unwinded in a horizontal position. I do not like that, so I am considering to mount a plastic box on top and hanging the spools vertically. Multiple spools should be no problem. Some holes for venting or space for filament would be easy mods as well. Experiments done here on your channel are great to find the weak spots and improve upon with some DIY with a cheap 250W dryer. Looking forward for your DIY and measurements.
At first, I thought the design choice is really confusing, but the I saw the heater and it make sense. The shape also save material as well as manufacturing cost.
The second heater is most likely added to cope up with uneven heating in S1. With the surrounded heater design, there shouldn't be a cold spot, and in worst case, the outer coils of the filament will get dried evenly.
But stagnant air is still a good insulator, lack of air flow means the overall heating time is longer, and the heater reach max temp quickly and the power output is throttled.
Great content.
Excited for when you can upgrade your microphones, hopefully a lav mic for the demonstrations - and a condenser mic for your narration parts
Sorry about that, my microphones are better than in this video sounds, especially when I narrated the results. Later I noticed mic was party unplugged.
There's a reason why the measured temperature must be the one of the heater. You usually set the temp just bellow the glass transition temperature for your filament , if the heating element went above that temperature you would risk deforming the filament on the places where it sits near the heater. So you must make sure the heater never goes above the set temperature.
I agree, but then they could use two sensors, not much extra cost.
With that kind of surrounded heater element, I guess even the center of the roll can get to the set temp.
Great content! Thank you for the time you put into it!
I would like to see some kind of centralized exhaust fan on the back to pull out that humidity instead of keeping it trapped in the housing. Also, it might help distribute the heat - despite venting it out, but if kept on a low quiet speed, maybe we might not have a lot of heat loss. I'm sure people can mod one, but just a thought for the future. It looks like with the dual heat plates, the entire roll will be radiated anyways. I really like the design of the S2, I'm tempted to get one.
Better would be to have a fan push colder air in from the bottom, thereby raising pressure (and temperature, but only minimal) in the chamber. Then there should be channels at the top leading air back to the bottom ideally through a radiator exchanging energy with the cold incoming air and collecting the resulting condensation and finally leading the now-not-so-hot air out. Now, all that sounds very complex, so I think the better solution is still a normal food dehydrator: significant heating on 240VAC and a decent fan pushing in the hot air and some vent holes at the top letting out the hot moist air (and losing some heat and hence efficiency). I don't understand why all these companies are focussing on DC heating and fans. Ok, for the fans there is the noise argument of the cheap AC mechanisms in food dehydrators, put they do push a decent amount of air, which for this application does also help drying stuff.
Weird, why do all these designs fail to offer a mechanism that would allow the moisture to get out. Heating the environment only allows for the air to take up more moisture, but once it has taken up that moisture, you want to get rid of the now moist air. That likely means you'll also lose some of the heat, so a smart mechanism to get rid of the moist while retaining most heat (ex. exchanging heat between the moist air going out and incoming air in a neighbouring channel) would be the killer feature for something like this. In absence of such smarts, having venting at the top and extra power heating up the bottom would probably be better than trying to heat from bottom and top...
Totally agree
Just leave a small gap while drying...
@ As mentioned, letting out the moist air by leaving a small gap also means losing heat and with the low-power DC heaters in these designs, that typically means you no longer hit the temperature needed to allow the moisture to exit the filament. The simple food dehydrators do have small venting holes at the top to let out some of the moist warm air and their AC heaters have a better chance of keeping things warm enough.
Also, designs like the one here, when left open with a gap will typically have that gap near the middle, whereas the hot moist air will normally accumulate near the top, so the designs provided are also not ideal for "leaving a small gap".
@@MisterkeTube This is exactly why I haven't bought one of these yet.
To mitigate moisture I don't keep many rolls on hand. I try to print with one or two colors. I try to keep them in a bag with desiccant until I need them. Or I just live with a few pops here and there. I've been able to adjust my settings to help with popping.
Desiccant.....
The EIBOS one is the best one so far in my opinion. Not the cheapest but it does what you need it to.
It melts PLA and can't get the internal temp above 55C
i have flashforge creator3 printer, PLA ABS PETG ASA CPE Nylon with carbon no problem but i have some old TPU with was stored in vckumm bug but i thin this filaments is wet , i try to dry in oven then in some dryer but still have problem and i have problem with nylon shrinking
Great I just bought the old one..
I wonder if adding some very small ventilation holes. Both in the bottom and top of the box. In order to facilitate natural convection air flow. Would potentially improve the drying performance. With the box being sealed, the air inside will reach saturation and no longer do any drying. You have to get rid of the moisture somehow.
Probably yes, some heat will escape, but interior will be dryer.
Interestingly experiment, olso the filament dryer!
Worth a small follow up video on the revised version with the fan? Also people recommend leaving it open a crack to vent, would be great to see an actual test is stead of hearsay!
Besides the missing fan, this looks like the best filament dryer around. I'm not a fan of the looks though... but that is personal of course.
PS: Thank you for the fantastic reviews, they are appreciated :)
I don't care about the design, only one thing I noticed in the meantime and not mentioned in video: less stability on these legs.
I wonder the efficiency between active filament dryers against the Stacker F-Box. Would you consider doing a comparison?
Hm. I don't have Stacker Ebox.
A all metal food dehydrator and somewhere a hole for the filament, would that work 🤔
You do not need an all-metal one. The cheapest food dehydrator (with sufficient volume for a spool) would probably outperform these DC filament dryers. The only problem I had with mine was that its actual temperatures were a lot lower than the temperature set (which was especially problematic at the maximum of its dial, i.e. 70C). I added a small potentiometer on one of the leads of the thermistor which allows me to offset its resistance and hence lower the (virtual) temperature the electronics measure. With that hack the device can now reach the advertised 70C (even if the offset isn't perfect as the resistance doesn't change linearly with temperature). Now, maybe an expensive all-metal food dehydrator also has better temperature control, making it useful, but metal also conducts heat much better than plastics, so for reaching only 70C on the inside, I don't think the price-uplift would be worth it.... Another drawback of a cheap food dehydrator is the noise. The fan is typically a very crude motor driven directly by AC and driving a quite large plastic disc pushing air across the heating element. Very functional, but at least in my model very noisy. Although the thing hangs on a bearing and some grease can quiet it down for a couple of hours, there's a rattle that always returns. Spending out on a more expensive model might reduce the noise level, but don't believe the specs on that, instead get user review input on the model you would consider.
@@MisterkeTube nice 👍
Which model would you recommend? The S1 for a cheaper price or is the S2 worth the additional money? Thanks.
S2 is worth additional money, BUT on S1 is easier to do some mods, like adding a fan or space for silica gel.
Very interesting, thank you.
I wonder if better insulation might of be more efficient than adding a second heater at the top as heat rises. Have you ever thought of designing your own DIY filament dryer and seeing how well it performs in these tests.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Food dehydrator test soon, only I want to finish the mods, so I can directly print from it too.
i have a S1, and modded with a fan which distributes the heat inside it cant reach 55°C any more because the casing also gets warm all around and looses heat. so i guess you are right: all those dryers lack either a fan and/or insulation.
Instead of adding a fan to ensure even drying, they just doubled the heating element. :-/
out of all the filament dryers you have tried which one would you say is the best one so far? The cyclopes?
The Cyclopes has the best drying capabilities. BUT if you want to dry only PLA, PETG or ABS, then any other is good. My favourites are Sovol and Eryone snail, because they have fan and they are quiet.
@@MyTechFun yes i have a bambulab p1p so i can only do pla petg and tpu with the open frame it has. which is fine with me so sovol and eryone snail should be perfect for me then but i am deff going with the sovol for the price and being able to do 2 rolls and plus i have a tube that goes in the center of the spool that holes desiccant and holds and locks so the spool doesnt pop open on my reusable ones so i think it should dry twice as fast with that in place with desiccant as well. Thanks!
Hi I dont understand your measurement values. Why does the relative humidity keep staying on such a constant level, regardless of the temperature, left sponge moisture and time?
Humidity stuck inside. Take a look of my 6 filament dryer comparison test. Where air is going out, there humidity is very low
Have you tested the Sovol Vs the Comgrow dryer? it looks exactly the same.
I have a feeling that Comgrow is some kind of a rebrand of Sovol dryer.
Hi... which do you recommend between sunlu s2 or ebox lite?
Ebox Lite, because I think the fan is important.
If the exit is just on the right sight @filament how do you see the display when you add it to your printer?
Do you know of any way to accurately measure the moisture level of filament?
I don't know, but usually these have accuracy of 5%
How does these test hold up when you use filiaments? Testing a empty drier, which looks like was designed to make use small space for higher temperatures doesnt do it justice. Not a scientfice approach I am afraid.
Sunlu has come out with a PLUS version that has a fan. Will you be reviewing that as well?
Probably not, but S4
what measurement error Obviously, the plate measures 70, so the closed interior will have close to or that temperature of 70. The 45 with fan will not reach more than 45. The measurements of the plate are the measurements that it will reach.
Thanks.
What dryer do you recommend for nylon? Or ABS?
For ABS almost any on the market. For Nylon: Eibos.
@@MyTechFun So with the eSun eBox lite, I could do PLA, ABS, and TPU? Which dryer would you choose? Eibos? It seems to get the best results, but it's hard for me to get in my location.
@@tomjoad6993 eBox Lite is good for PLA, ABS, PETG and TPU. For nylon no, to dry it but good enough to keep it dry during printing if you dry it in oven on higher temperatures (70-80°C)
I know it's an old video, but the new s2 have a fan
i want to get me one for my bambulab p1s... i have the ams but tpu i have on the rear spool holder. because its not compatible with the ams... i want to put the sunlu on the side, i basically prefer the design of the s1 because the display is in front and i could put the machine next to the wall... but otherhand i prefer the features of the s2 but the display isnt accesable when its near a wall... cant really decide lol
why would they have no Bowden tube attachment.
Maybe they think that filament is out for very short time before printing and it is not necessary. (?)
Hi MTF
These are some awesome videos you make I follow these on a regular basis!
I find you incredibly skilled and creative which is a great inspiration and very useful for my knowledge and development
in the 3D world!
I do not want to be a firm patrion but I will bother to support you loosely along the way.
You have set up an option for support through patrion and not other options. Is this something you could consider
setting up an opportunity for me to support your excellent studies and inspiration.
Thank you for your kind words. I have other options for support, only I don't mention them all in every video. And a positive comment I also consider as support :-) www.mytechfun.com/donation
Wish they would add a fan
Well done
Just use a food dehydrator instead cheaper bigger and can go higher temperature, only need to do a little modification if you want to print straight from the dryer
I already have one. Video soon, only I have to finish mods to print directly from it.
@@MyTechFun can't wait 😀
@@MyTechFun also how often do you print straight from the dryer i usually take filament out if i need to print
For nylon all the time. PETG only for very long prints. If you have enclosure, that may help, because higher temp inside reduce the humidity in air.
Not everyone has the space for or wants a big ugly dehydrator.
One question, the S2 doesnt have a fan?
The version I got, no fan.
It still doesn't have a fan...The esun ebox lite is probably still the best bang for the buck for a single spool dryer.
I dont think so.Adding a fan is not necessarily a good thing, it is estimated that they also have a reason not to add a fan
@@李锦斌-g7i Some guy with a thermal camera showed how a fan effectively circulates hot air around the spool.
ruclips.net/video/6FG4O5l9XpE/видео.html found it. I don't need to be an engineer to understand that a dryer with a fan is more effective. It just makes sense to me.
perhaps the stupid question is what moisture should be
20-30. But in this test a lot of water evaporates and stuck in dryer. With filament you don't have so big amount of humidity. That's why it is important to let out the humidity from time to time, or use silica gel.
👏👏👏🙏
Measuring relative humidity doesn't make a sense here. When you increase a temperature RH will drop because hot air can hold more water without condensation. So it will show you low RH% but the amount of water is the same. It's kind of cheat - it looks like it is doing something. Try to cool this devidce with "dried" filament inside and observe RH%... :)
it still seems to work though. I put in a nearly full spool that has been sitting for years and the reading shot up. I had to manually vent the inside a few times to get rid of the moisture though...
PLA has the highest preset value of 70? PLA has the lowest heat tolerance of all the "Preset" materials. WTF Sunlu? and...has anyone EVER dried PLA?
The default for PLA was 50; he changed it to 70 and it saved that value. And yes, people do dry PLA, usually to make a spool that's a few years old useable.
I do dry PLA as well, living near 90% RH it makes a difference with a spool that has been open for a while.
Th is video could have been five minutes long.
So, basically, all sorts of bells and whistles, but no real improvements to the main function, typical chinese product...
s1's better tbh... a humidity sensor is useless, just measures humidity of the air inside.. useless for measuring the fila humidity.. heater on top also useless.. heat rises up..
check some other reviews that use infrared on filament. especially the ones that compare s1 with the mod. bottom heater just heats the filament at the bottom. it might heat up the whole spool, but nearly not as much at the top.
@@gligoran ye infrared filament's are nice. Sadly though I've found that heating the flament and letting it cool makes it absorb even more moisture than before. Heating it up only really useful if the filament is already "too wet" and saves it just enough for a final few prints. Before it becomes snap-happy.