Bike wiring (part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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In part 2 of the series 'bike wiring' we're going to lay a few cables of the crucial right hand side controlswitch. This will be the kill switch and starter button.
I follow a so called 'bare bone' diagram or scheme for my project. Even though I am wiring a Yamaha XV 750 Virago, this series talks everyone through the process how you can wire any custom bike, caferacer, chopper or whatever motorcycle you are building. All the connections and electrical parts on motorbikes (streetbikes that is) are practically the same.
See my channel for all the other video's I've made of me building my bike.
Follow me on Facebook for 'behind the scenes' info: / chiefpep
I really appreciate a thumbs up if this video helped you through your wiring process or if you just enjoyed the video.
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Music used in this video:
Produced and composed by Pepijn Schoemaker under my own DJ name ‘DJ Pep’ (see my other channel aswell: / @djpep1855 )
I produced this music myself specifically for these video’s. Please do not use this music without permission.
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In this series you might also like to watch:
► How to test your main electrical bike components (part 1 of 2): • Wiring a motorbike (or...
► Wiring a motorbike (or caferacer) 'Bare Bones' (part 2 of 2): • Wiring a motorbike (or...
► Bike Wiring part 1: • Bike wiring (part 1)
Just discovered this channel today. I've been struggling with re-wiring my old Honda for quite some time. Now I feel confident that I can get it done. Thanks, Chiefpep!
Thanks! Make sure to always start with this video for the best understanding. Otherwise you might mis some parts... ruclips.net/video/6eX51fIQc8Y/видео.html
Like the gentleman that commented before me, I am also rewiring 1980 Honda - and you have given me confidence to give it a go. Been putting if off out of fear lol - you have been very helpful my friend thank you for your time keep it up.
Love your attention to detail, and totally agree about soldering connectors wherever possible. Looking forward to next episodes...
I agree with this 100% I was helping my Dad with a car build (71 Chevelle) and a cable kept being removed stopping the car. it was pressed not soldered. once it was pressed and soldered (since I do this on my bikes) it worked perfectly didn't move and the car is still running.
You have an excellent video with one exception everything you are explaining is out of sight from the😢
Very nice job it looks very professional! Spot on with the type of wire connectors.You videos always look fantastic very crisp and so well done!
Getting close Pep. Can’t wait to see it finished!
Owen O'Neil Can't wait either...
i have a bad experience with shrink tube, it shorted my HID ballast and blown up, twice,
for god sake, i lost my ballast twice.
so now i always put an electrical tape to make sure the wiring fully isolated before using shrink tube.
Thanks so much, the videos make a lot easier my project. Thanks for answer my questions. You are a really nice guy !!
I was wondering to do a complete rewirering on my XS400 with a M Unit Blue, but with your two videos I might try do do it old school. Most difficult seems to be starter/solenoid/stator/key setup
No, that's the easiest part. Make sure to start watching this video: ruclips.net/video/6eX51fIQc8Y/видео.html
Estou fazendo a parte elétrica de uma cbx 750 1989 aqui no Brasil. Ela será customizada no estilo café. Muito obrigado pelo excelente vídeo me ajudou muito. E parabéns pelo belo trabalho ❗️😊🇧🇷
LOL! I love the out takes at the end! Good job. Thanks for posting these videos. Helps me out! Working on an 82 XV920 myself :)
such clean work.
The plastic terminal ends which you are avoiding melting with the iron can easily be removed if you heat them up with your heat gun for 5 seconds. They then slide of very very easily.
Nice video again! One thing to mention is that there is quite a discussion about soldering a crimped connection or not. I do not solder them, but then again I haven't bought a soldering iron, so that's an easy choice ;) For example in airplanes it's forbidden to solder connections, as they can break due to vibrations. For our bikes it probably doesn't matter so much, but something to think about.
Therefore I not only squeeze the connecter, or only solder the connector, I do both... This is because I don't trust the squeezed connectors. For to many times I found old bikes with these DIY connectors who were faulty. It's only these cheap connectors that I solder. For the rest I use high quality connectors like AMP superseal which I do only squeeze together (and thus not solder).
SOOOOO good bro I love watching your videos with you doing the wiring, It will be cool when you come and do mine for me lol I hate those connectors as well, sometimes its all the shop has when you are in a hurry but I think im going to go with the ones you have used, I mean you can wire them on my bike when you come to Australia Lol ;) haha
Onze OCC op ijburg, keep up the good work Chiefpep
awesome work and training data, i will attempt to rewire a perfectly running Honda shadow, that a local mechanic destroyed all wires on attempting to install all new led lights after 5 months i now have a non running bike because of wiring, anyways thank you for the vids and have a blessed day wish you were close to Florida. lol
Hey ChiefPep. Is it an easy job to have any motorcycle halogen lighting (including instrument lighting) changed to led?
Yes. Most items come with a converter I think. Or the converter is mounted on the bulb, or the converter comes with the wiring in the package. Make sure to read about it when you want to order your items.
thank you so much
How would you Connect plastic tci With only plugins? Iam strugling With yellow, black and white , black and red and white Cannes
Bloopers are fun
Your awesome can I use this same bare bone for a 85 virago 1000
Yes. Basics are absolutely the same. Have a look at your wiring diagram and compare it. Maybe even the colors will match
Hey chief pep try the cloth wiring tape instead of the normal electrical tape. The advantage is that is fire resistant and it doesnt create a sticky mess when the glue melts on higher temperatures.
zuzuki65 Got that tape to. I'll consider that!
Chiefpep love your work and attention to detail. That makes your project stand out from the others :)
Also if you tie the cables like shoelaces before soldering them gives to the connection more mechanical strength.
zuzuki65 I know that's a way to do it. We all have our methods
Chiefpep of course :) i found the handle bar paint marking a good idea, i can try it too now.
Hello Chiefpep, i would like to know where i can find wiring diagrams, i just bought a Honda CB750 and the wiring harness is in bad stated, the bike works, but i think it could give problems any time. So i want to start the wiring project.
I would like to know your recommendations and where i can find the original wiring diagram, and a fuse box. I was thinking in a M-Unit, but is expensive, i want to see other options. Controllers as well, if you can recommend me where to search i will appreciated.
Henrry Villeta Wiring is for all brands the same. Best is to follow the part 1 video and continue from there. Get comfortable with the basic components and work your way up from there. Really, all automotive vehicles are the same. In basics...
Super video en zit duidelijk enorm veel tijd in! Waar heb je ergens je kabels e connectors gekocht aub? ik y´weet dat er zo wel kits bestaan met verschillende gekleurde kabels in kortere lengtes en secties.
Www.rdae.nl Maar ook caferaceronderdelen.nl
Hi Pep, which tape do you use to sheathe your cables? I use the cotton one from TESA but yours looks less "fluffy"
If you have a link where i can see the material you use it would be perfect!
Don't know where I got it from... Sorry...
Found it! It's called 'fleece' tape. Good luck!
good stuff! a M-unit would also have been nice! for the next one maybe.
Fred Janssen no sorry. M-unit is not more than a distribution bus. If you're scarred of wiring, then it's a great solution.
Chiefpep it sure is a distrbution box, and much more.
Well ok... But not enough extra's for me personally to do the investment. I thought about it, but, this way all will work aswell. Compare it with a little calculating using a pencil and a piece of paper or using a calculator. The results should be the same. This is a little bit more authentic ;)
The M-unit is indeed more than a DB. It allows to get rid of fuses along with pretty much all relays. It is also smaller than a pack of cigarettes, which is useful when space is critical. But it really shines when coupled with other Motogadget products, among others the M-button allows to run ALL the handlebar controls signals (turn singals, horn, ignition, kill switch, etc...) through one single wire.
But to each his own, I totally respect your choice and these two wiring vids are among the best on YT on the motorcycle wiring topic.
What surprises me a bit is how your connections are top notch (insulated connectors with proper crimping / soldering, etc...) but how you simply wrap the wires in tape. What about sleeving the wires? It really doesn't take long for tape to turn into a sticky mess of oozing glue and dirt. Sleeving takes a bit more time but is worth the effort on the long term.
Keep up the good work!!!
I will wrap them up as a harnas when everything is at it's place.
Huge thank you for these videos! Really given me the confidence to wire my xv750 myself! Can I ask what kind of wire you used? I can see some witimg is thicker than other.
Thanks! You find that in this video: ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html at 21:58min
Hi, wonder if you could assist solve an issue? I have those three button switches. 2 of the buttons you press in (on position), button stays in, you press again, button comes back out to off position. If I use this button to switch on headlight, the headlight does come on but when I switch it to out/off position, headlight stays on, and I must press back in again for headlight to go off. it's like 2 presses for one function. hope i explained clearly...
You would have to test the connections of the wire with a voltmeter to understand the switch first. Then check what happens when you click the button. Put the voltmeter on the 'open/close line' function. Only if you understand the switch control you can wire up your bike.
@@chiefpepdesign thanks. IL try later. It's like I've an extra ground or something if that's possible. The switch itself has three buttons. Each button two wires. But also the switch is internally grounded so I'm hoping by disconnecting the ground of each button it may help... Just another challenge...
Awesome videos! This will be a huge help in wiring my xv920 cafe project I'm working on. One question though - where did you find new ignition coils for that bike? I'm not having much luck finding replacements for mine.
Thanks! I found them on Ebay
One of my unboxing video's I mention them
Do you know if those coils would work on a xv1000? Can't find the right model for my bike, those coils are the only aftermarket parts that would fit my bike.. love your videos by the way!
Perhaps. You would have to look in your repair manual what Ohms it needs
Hi, my solenoid(starter relay) is connected to the battery and starter motor. Unlike yours mine only has 1 blue connection that should run to the starter button. Does this mean I should make a separate ground wire to the distribution box? thanks in advance
Blue could be negative. If it runs only one cable, going to your starter button, normally your starter motor will find ground on the handlebar via a small touching point going to a non coated part on the handlebar. Just look at your wiringdiagram. It will tell you there.
@@chiefpepdesign Hi again, thanks for your very quick reply, In all fairness I am pretty new to this and I am following your videos where you are wiring your bike and planning to do the same on mine. It just got me confused because your starter solenoid had a blue and red cable (first video) running to the front and mine only a blue one. In the second video you made a red/white and black for the killswitch. Now I am thinking maybe I should connect the starter button to the killswitch and then connect is like your second made cable? As you explain in this video around 05:20 the red/white button runs back to the solenoid to get power, in my case that is impossible, should I just connect it to the box then instead? (By the way, I am happy to be a patreon to ask you some indebt questions if that is OK but not sure how that works exactly).
@@fcdevreugd9449 please become a Patreon and ask me the questions there ok? Just follow the steps to do so.
Another question, the way you wired the killswitch... doesn't this bypass it's funtion?
No why? The coils only get their currenct if the killswitch is off? Watch and listen from 5:09 carefully.
@@chiefpepdesign I think I'm a bit confused, I copied all your wires. However, do you run the red and blue wire (1 connector) to the starter button and the red/white and black to the killswitch? I thought that but a buddy of mine says I'd need to run a positive in and out from killswitch? I'm confused
@@fcdevreugd9449 Yes. That one connector with red and blue goes to the handlebar switch and recieves power (of not) from the killswitch (red) and for the starterbutton (blue). Please watch part 1 and please watch the very, very first two video's about barebones wiring carefully to understand what you are doing (a switch doesn't do more than open and close a powerline). Also always make sure you understand the wiring diagram. The video's are only support. Only following the video while not fully understanding the diagram might cause problems... Please consider a small donation via my Patreon page if all this info helps you 🙏
Slight issue with handle bar switches I have. The kill switch and starter button only have 1 wire + the combined earth for the whole control. s
Should I be able to put a split in the 1 "red white" wire and have the same effect? essentially the circuit is still complete when the kill switch is on.
Only your starter button has ground. Your wire finds ground by the handlebar when the button is pressed in. The kill switch is a positive wire which gets interrupted by the switch. Make sure you watch that part in this video again to clearly understand how the wires should run and what the switches do exactly.
whats the use of yellow cable in the rectifier?
No Idea. I don't use it.
Nice build, what type of wires are you using?( AWG,Wire diameter )And do you have a link to where I can buy them?
12, 14 and 16 gauge mainly. 16 for all the lights and so on. 12 and 14 for the more 'heavy' cables which need more load like straight from and to the battery for instance. Or if the wires fires up more items through one cable.
I get them at car audio shops most of the time.
Hey Chiefpep I have been build this exact bike and I’m really confused with the starter button and Killswitch and what they’re connected to and how you did a great job of explaining the left side of the handle bar was showing where each wire connects to is it possible that you could do that for the right handlebar switch as well as I notice you didn’t mention anything about the actual key could you please help with this?
Hi and thanks for watching and commenting! I am so sorry, but I can't explain more detailed then I do at 4:51 and further. I spent 2 and a half minutes on the topic including showing the diagram. Which part is not clear? Perhaps I can explain again. Please keep in mind that the only thing these buttons do is open or close a line. So the kill switch opens or closes a permanent positive lead to the coils, TCI and the starter solenoid. The starter button does exactly the same but then for the negative lead , it opens up or closes a lead (negative) for only the starter solenoid. So the starter solenoid has two leads, positive and negative, one from the kill switch and one from the starter button. Basically exactly as I show in the video. Always try to understand the very basic idea as I tell in one of the very first videos here ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html at 5:27 This is also where I show the key red wire. The only thing a diagram does is tell you that every electrical component needs a positive and negative lead. And in basically all the more 'daunting' times, a switch is in between a wire so you can tell by manually switching it when to work and when not by opening or closing that lead with a switch. So the keyswitch is just a switch between the very first permanent red wire which goes everywhere unless its off...
@@chiefpepdesign Thank you for the reply means a lot ill see if i can figure it out
Hi there! What did you do with the clutch switch and brake switch wires? Thank you
Nothing. Didn't use them. The front brake switch is there though.
As in: I did use the front brake switch (left the rear out)
Thank you! How about the clutch switch? Is it necessary?
@@user-zb7nl8xq2u no why would you need that?
hi-what quick release system did you use for your seat? brilliant
Just from a racebike like GSX-R or R1...
@@chiefpepdesign thank you
what is the use of the yellow cable?
No idea. That's why I cut it off.
Hey, just wondering where you get the coloured wires from so that they match the wiring diagrsm?
Most of the times car audio shops. But you can also find them at sites like caferacerwebshop.com
@@chiefpepdesign Thanks pep found the answer here!
Hi mate, what was the reason you used the metal TCI over the black one?
Chris B because the stator is for this one and I can't figure out which color wire goes on which pin. And, I mis one wire connection on the connection pin.
I’m using the Yamaha Majesty YCC to control 250 I lost my key Farb do you know how I Can Bypass it please
Off course. Key ignitions are just on and off switches. Please always watch part one and two (testing electrical components and part 2 wiring bare bones) to understand the basics before asking questions.
Where did u get those new ignition coils?
Gordo Castillo I have the same question!
Sorry only see your question now. Watched over it... From this E-bay user: www.ebay.com/usr/motorcyclepartsandspares2016?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Btw, the orange cable on this coil goes to red/white...
Hi again, hey where i can get that distribution block, i see nothing to big like that. Thanks !!
Felipe Iturra It's from Blue Sea. Google it is the easiest. See my previous video
what gauge wire did you use?
I tell, show that near the end of this video ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html Always start with watching these two episodes before starting to watch the rest.
Great video, gives me inspiration to rewire my next project! bedankt ChiefPiep.
Ik heb een vraag mate, mijn battery van mijn suzuki gn250 is ook lithium maar nu is kapot, als ik probeer te opladen, geef me 6.7 volts in het charger! Vind je dat het moto is te oud voor een lithium batery? Ik heb geen idea van waar komt het problem.. Ik heb het gekort ook in caferacersonderdelen.nl in December, an mischien better is dat ik contacter zijn maar ik trouw uw advisie op eerste plaats. Sorry mijn nederlands, ik ben van Portugal, woonen in Gent. Groetjes amigo
Een Lithium batterij kun je het beste met een speciale oplader laden. Niet met een standaard lader voor normale accu's...
I have the plastic cdi on my 83 xv750. Out of the cdi its 2 orange wires, how do I wire this?
To the Orange of your coils. Obviously... Did you watch the whole series from the very first part or at least this one?: ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html
@@chiefpepdesign I saw them both. Both the orange wires from the cdi to the one orange on the coil?
@@Mats_K No, you have a two cylinder right? So each orange wire goes to one coil...
You mentioned you wouldn't use the plastic tci,are they inferior to the metal
Well I guess because I thought it would be for another model. Not necessarily because of it being metal or plastic. Eventually I did go for the metal one. I painted it black.
Amazing video 🙏🙏🙏👌👌👌 the first fuse for kill switch was 15 or 50 a Please ?
Before you start I always suggest you watch the video's that introduce this topic. This is a serie and the knowledge stacks up. Basically every single item and topic gets discussed. Nothing is let out. Like this fuse question that gets answered in this video: ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html at 3:57
@@chiefpepdesign actually i already watch every part of your bare bones wiring it helped me amazingly 👌 just was not sure if i heard you properly but them k doublechecked manuál for used fuses and compared so i know now its 15
@@majolamlech no it's 20... That's what I said in the video
@@chiefpepdesign my bad 😞😞 thank you for correcting me
@@majolamlech You didn't watch the video did you... 😉 I mention it three times in a row. 😊
So is mil-spec not used in bikes? I've seen multiple guys now that solder their bikes.
I never use them no...
I need help getting spark on my 2002 Honda cbr600 f4
Unfortunately I am no bikedealer so I can't help you. Other than that it is nearly impossible to help you over these kind of channels from a distance. Try a bike forum. Very often a lot of people are willing to try to find out together step by step what could be the cause. Good luck.
I am getting crazy due to the background music... but thanks for the insight...
Hi,wich cables sizes did you use? I mean the diameter of each one,thanks
The very first two video's are very important to watch before starting off. Saves a lot of questions of understanding everything. But also the Wire diameter question ;) on the end of this video I show that ruclips.net/video/m2cGSZlpznc/видео.html
@@chiefpepdesign thanks i didn't hear that part,i watch all videos ad they are very clear for me,thanks again
@@chiefpepdesign hi again , i wonder if you had the diagrams in better quality, because i downloaded from the page you mention , but it is a JPG file and they are not very clear to see
@@geromussi1 no sorry...
@@chiefpepdesign tahnks i already got it , but i got a doubt with the negative wire to the battery and fuse box , you used a 12g wire , i try to make the conversion in mm but gives me 3mm wide , and i think you used a thicker one , do you know the size of this gray cable in mm ? Thanks again
Crimp only use milk carton test. Solder causes wire breaks. Aircraft never solder.
Luckily this is not an aircraft ;)
soldering makes the wire brittle
Why don't you put in an motogadget m-unit blue?
Could you give me a good reason why? Because I didn't find enough reasons...
@@chiefpepdesign I could only find good reasons. I've never done anything like this before. But they make it really easy. Much benefits in troubleshooting. And what about the wow factor with having your bike started by the mobile 👌
@@TheSimonkummu Ok, that last one could be one, but for my model I think it's a bit too modern... And I like to feel the pride of doing all the wires myself instead of the gadget... But I respect everyones choice!
The suggestion to crimp and solder is not a good advise in my opinion. A crimp connector should always be crimped on only! If it does get loose something went wrong. You either used the wrong size AMP connector or used a cheap and unreliable crimping tool. The problem with soldering a crimp connector is that the wire may break near the contact due to vibrations and temperature changes. Any connector is always designed for soldering or crimping only and never for both.
I'm rather safe than sorry. I can't count the many times I've found a dodgy connection in a bike from a crimp connector. Soldering is way better. And Luckily I've never found a broken soldered one...? 🤔 In any case, thanks for mentioning! Always good to take these things in consideration!
@@chiefpepdesign In automotive you will not see ever a solded wire... the reason told you Klaaysen. But anyway nice job, if is work for you is perfect. Anyway I saw you solder just near base, after clamped area, this is a good think. (in automotive is not cost effective to do that)
cn u hlp built me one for m virago 535?😂
No sorry. I've made the video's so everyone can do it theirselve.
Pekerjaan elektrik yang kompleks, bahasa indonesia
Your videos are pretty nice, but you make a big misstake. In automotive is a rule, you don't solder electrical connectors, you clamp... because because of vibration the soldering will brake
I think due to vibrations the clamp will loosen eventually. So better solder it also...
Change of music would make this much more tolerable.
I wasn't that experienced back then and experimenting a lot with what works and what not. Back than there weren't a lot copyright free artists so I made the music myself... That was a lot of work next to the editing, the wrenching and trying to put up a video every week..