94-97 Honda Accord Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this video I show you how to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals on 94-97 EX Accords and the 97 Acura CL with the F22B1 engine.
The process is similar for the F22B2 engine on the DX, LX, and SE models. However there is an additional set of seals under the rocker assembly to replace.
You'll need a torque wrench to reinstall the rocker assembly bolts on the B2 since the assembly is integrated into the top half of the camshaft bearing cap. You'll also need to torque them in a specific order consult your service manual for details.
These seals are the cause of a common oil leak into the spark plug tubes. Which if left unchecked can destroy the plug wires and lead to a misfire.
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
7 years after this video was made, there's still people like me, buying 500$ Honda's as First Cars and having to learn how to fix the numerous problems that an old car may have. Thanks for the Help!
Exactly my story, paid 500 for my Honda, which is my first car and I bought it a year ago
Same I just got one
It keeeeeeps on keeping on
This is the best video on valve cover replacement i have seen yet. The only video that warns you that the bolts could snap with over tightening and tells you the pattern for tighting. Also gos over spark plug gaskets getting caught up on the tubes. Great video dude
Bailed me out again, brother. This Accord has 225k miles and may get 100k more!The detail of getting the seals around the spark plug tubes right was super helpful! Thanks!
Great video, man! I just changed the valve cover gasket on a 97 Accord SE and it had the F22B2 engine, so things were a little different. I had a ton of leakage all around the valve cover, with the help of your video I believe I did everything correctly and now I'm waiting for the sealant to cure, hopefully there'll be no more leaking.
Top notch; step by step, clear & concise. Thank you.
Thank you. I just bought a 96 Accord and the spark plug tube seals leak oil. This will definitely help me to change the gasket.
Thank you so much! Perfect video for this job. Straight and to the point! I use a torque wrench because I don't trust myself with that.
I do a lot of my own car repairs. Two reasons. One, I know I'll do it right and two it's way cheaper! My Honda Accord has been one issue after another. I've been throwing parts at it for past 5 years. After this repair? I'm selling.
Awesome video! I have a 96 Honda Accord that the gasket needs doing on this was a great help and it’s a lot easier to do than my 97 and 01 Foresters 😂
Great video made the job so much easier, saved me hundreds of dollars to do it myself.
Thanks for the video. I just changed the gaskets on my '97 Accord this morning. Your video was really helpful and pointed out a couple of things I might have missed (like that ground wire).
I did manage to tear a couple of the new spark plug tube gaskets - I didn't check them closely enough and there was a bit of overhang on the tubes. I had to buy a new set and I put some lithium grease on them before the reinstall and they went on much more smoothly.
Lee Meister I forgot to mention that this project gave me an excuse to add a new tool to my collection. I bought a seal puller which worked very nicely on the spark plug tube gaskets.
This video is very helpful I look forward to watching more to get my honda back to its glory days
As usual, another excellent seminar from Bushougoma. I had always thought those seals were most often failing down lower, where the tubes meet the metal of the cylinder head.
Awesome job just fixed my 97 so happy
so putting the seals in that way worked out for you?. Just curious. I'm doing my 97 soon.
Thank you! Love my Honda and enjoy taking care of it.
grateful for the video I was very useful I will do this repair on my accord 2.3 here in Brazil.
Thanks so much made the job so much easier esp when I had to turn the cover upside down to replace. Great video !!!
Such a great video, thanks man! I am going to replace my valve cover gasket this weekend and this will be my guide.
I just watched your video on replacing valve cover gaskets on honda next time place gasket in valve cover and use auto zone brake cleaner can to push it in works a lot better than beating in gaskets till you hear metal hope it works for you
He was only putting the spark plug gaskets in with a hammer. Not the valve cover gasket with a hammer.its a 2.2 l vetc 4 cylinder motor.
Upupuupuupuppupuppuppupup*upupup
Great video, thanks for sharing your tips ands tricks. This was far more helpful than the descriptions in my Haynes manual.
The B1s don't use that design there are only the upper seals on the cover. The tubes just thread into the cylinder head a bit of sealant is added to the threads before they're tightened to make an oil tight seal. They rarely leak from below.
As for the B2s you're right while the upper seals still feel somewhat pliable the lower seals become hard and brittle. I usually end up breaking them into pieces with my pick tool to get them out.
I did this once, but I'll be doing it a second time.. Hate when that happens!! Thanks for the upload 👍🏼
Nicholas Mercado The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Cylinder 1 is the post on the cap marked A1. The distributor rotor rotates clockwise with the distributor shaft pointing at you. So number the distributor cap in a clockwise direction with the firing order.
On the engine cylinder 1 is the one closest to the crank pulley since so you count from right to left 4-3-2-1.
thanks man you’re my go to car guy now
I'm having to change the valve cover on my fiances 93 accord LX, thanks for the video.
Many Thanks This video is a life saver.
We were given a 96 honda accord wagon (2.2litre) with 225k miles on it. It ran for 27 days before smoking profusely and misfire on cylinder 1 and 2. (checked codes with the jumper and looked up online). Checked the plugs to find 3 of 4 tubes filled with oil and the 4th visibly leaking. I am heading out now with this downloaded for reference as I go to replace everything, including the spark plugs and the wires (and oil and filter while we are at it.)
Colder than a well digger's bum out there so I might have a bit of a time but at least I have a decent reference.
Thanks again.
Not sure which engine the wagons have I think it could have either the B1 or B2.
If you have the F22B2 with the rearward facing plugs. You'll need to pull the rocker assembly off in addition to the valve cover to replace the lower o-rings to stop the leaks.
Since the rocker assembly is also one half of the camshaft bearing cap you'll need a torque wrench and the proper tightening sequence from the service manual to reinstall it.
*****
Well you just rained on my parade. I have the rear facing spark plugs. I guess I'll have to try to find the torque specs online somewhere because I dont have a service manual and they don't have one available at the parts stores.
FunktasticFlanMaster
I figured the better seal design on the B1 is less prone to leakage than the B2.
A full valve cover gasket kit will include both the upper donut seals and the lower o-rings.
Make sure you leave the bolts in the assembly when you remove it or it can fall apart.
There are two torques the 8mm bolts get torqued to 16 ft lbs while the 6mm bolts get torqued to 8.7 ft lbs.
Have a pick tool handy because the o-rings aren't rubber anymore and are going to be as hard as plastic and will need to be carefully pried out.
*****
Thanks again. I just came in to warm up. found a video but he gave slightly different torques so this is good to know. I appreciate it.
getting ready to pull the rocker assembly now, after my fingers can move again. will loosen from the outside in, then tighten from inside out (middle to out). Got a tool pick and plenty of brake cleaner. I just wish I had a garage to work in, or at least insulated water proof gloves that I could still move my fingers in ;).
I feel for you.
Rubber gloves hold the sweat in and feel uncomfortable during the summer and do squat keeping your hands warm during the winter.
This time of year I need to bring out a space heater to work in the garage. The cold really slows you down. It's very difficult to remove fasteners when you can't feel your fingers :).
Let me know if you need any more info.
Also thank you for the video it had everything I needed to know except the bolt grommet replacement but found it while reading through the comments.
Thank you so much for this video!! The exact engine and car I had to work on. God bless mate!
great video,really appreciate the excellent instructions. i will change mine in the coming days
Thanks now i can change the valve cover gasket on my 2002 honda accord
Great video, me and my 2001 Accord thank you :)
Glad to help. Thanks For Watching.
Thank u for the front and rear plug info. Never notice that.
I'd first handle the oil leak into the spark plug tube as it can lead to a misfire. I believe the LX has the F22B2 the lower o-rings under the rocker assembly are probably leaking.
A complete valve cover kit will contain the cover gasket, upper donut seals, and lower o-rings to repair the leak. You'll need a torque wrench to reinstall the rocker assembly bolts.
I'd replace the plugs and plug wires too as oil exposure degrades the rubber. Use only the proper NGK or Nippondenso plugs.
Busho. Great video even after 6 years. My uncle replaced the gasket cover and tube seals. My 97 Odyssey is leaking oil in the spark plug tubes so I think it needs the lower oring under the rocker. Do you happen to know the part number for those orings. Thanks
Will be using this method on a 95 tomorrow
Howd it go??
THANKS fromJAPAN
Your smart Good description
You are different from other video uploader
Excellent video helped me solve my problem. Well done.
Hope you can make a tutorial on a 95 Honda accord 4 cylinder timing belt and water pump replacement. I just recently purchased the belt kit and looking for a perfect tutorial step by step to help me out you do good work thanks
@ 15:00 when he push down on the valve cover, I almost went n my boxers.
Many thanks, made the job super easy
Hey Busho, I was considering attempting this on my non-VTEC 1996 accord. Someone told me the valves need to be readjusted though after the rocker is removed, which seems to be needed to get to the lower set of seals. The car has over 300,000 miles now so perhaps it could use it anyhow. Is it really necessary? What do you think and is there any chance you might do a video on this yourself? And much thanks for all the videos on these cars, they're some of the best on the internet.
looks pretty simple, I need to do this asap.
Thanks for a Great Video! I have to do this on my 1997 Accord 2.2. My only question is what type of RTV do you recomend? Is the Ultra Grey Permatex you used designed for high heat?
Great video thank you!!!
Your video is very helpful. Thanks you for making it possible for me to learn and do it myself.
Awesome...Thank you!
I used some silicon paste to make it stick. works good
have you ever broken a valve cover bolt on one of these old accords while removing it? I'm trying to determine whether I should pb blast and impact wrench the bolts out instead of using a ratchet, apparently impacts cause less direct turning force than using a ratchet/breaker bar and are hence less likely to break a stubborn bolt. Of course an impact to drive the bolt in again would be sheer recklessness. thank you.
No but it's very easy to snap one off during installation if you're using a 3/8" ratchet and not paying attention.
An impact does work better on rusted or stubborn fasteners and is gentler on them than hand tools. The impacting motion tends to break up the rust.
With regard to penetrating oil the threads on the B1 fasteners are inside the valve cover so penetrating oil sprayed from the top would never reach them.
If you have the B2 which has acorn nuts then oil can help if they're giving you trouble.
Excellent video/tutorial.
Thanks buddy.
Very nice video and great job with the camera angles
Gracias esta muy explicado facil y el tiempo necesario para hacerlo y tomar tiempo
Do u have a video for changing radiator hoses or finding water leaks
You are a great machanic,thnks
I agree with Spelunkerd. nice vid!
Great video. I watched it because I noticed a thin film of oil and grit around the head that is evenly spread across the width of the head. No other symptoms and I only have 90K miles on my '97. Is some residue normal and can I leave well enough alone? If oil on the wires is the main danger of ignoring this, its pretty easy to monitor.
+trainluvr If that's the original gasket it's hard as a rock by now and I'd be surprised if it wasn't leaking.
Has the timing belt, tensioner pulleys, and water pump been replaced yet? You're nearing the replacement interval for a 97' Accord (105,000 miles) these are interference engines and if the belt breaks engine damage will result.
If not and the gasket isn't leaking badly and the spark plug tubes are free of oil I'd just monitor the oil level and save the gasket replacement for when the timing belt is done since the valve cover will be off anyway.
My valve cover gasket came with 5 tiny rubber gaskets, im guessing its for the 5 screw holes correct?
Yes they are under the washers on the valve cover bolts.
Thanks man, ur vids help me out a lot...
really like your video, that was great, but you would have a video about changing speed sensor (vss) honda accord ex 94 big hug
Man I found your video very useful however I keep seeing that the torqe is a 3 step process, so.ething like 1st-29lbft 2nd-51lbft and last-72lbft. I need to wrap my job up soon any clarity is much appreciated
You are a lifesaver!!!
Can you make a video on how to adjust valves on the 94/97 VTEC engine please?? Thanks
my bolts are able to be tightened by hand easily when i checked. and it's most of them. does that mean i should tighten them? i know there's a certain amount of pressure they need but i wasn't certain my torque tool was accurate.
Does this make/model have lower spark plug seals?
My honda accord 95 LX 2.2, the cover is different, the cables holes is turned to the back!
Thanks for the info
Can you just put the gasket itself? Or you need rtv also?
nice job thank's
Where does that ground come from that goes on valve cove mines doesn't have it
This video is awesome! I have only one question... What is RTV? Can anyone can answer me, please.
Edgar Bernal rtv is a paste sealant. he adds it in the corners to help seal up the 90° angles that are prone to leaking. Without the rtv it would eventually leak so it just helps seal up the tiny gaps in the corners.
thanks ... good video
great videos. Do you have any videos for timing belt/water pump replacement on 94-97 honda accord. Thanks
Not yet if I need to do one in the future I will definitely film it.
What the cod number VCG accord f22b 95... Thank you
Thanks for the video! I completed this process and botched one of the plug seal, lil bit of oil in there. I'm gonna replace it but will I have to replace the valve cover seal also since it's been pressed?
No the new seal isn't old and is still supple so it will reseal just fine.
Thanks man!
Hello. what is the spark plug firing order for a 1994 Honda accord. Do I start where it states A1.
Thank you is that process gonna need oil drained
No it won't.
I have 94 lx noticed no oil on spark plugs but mine have oil or transmission fluid is that ok?
It may be dielectric grease it's used to prevent the spark plug boots from sticking to the ceramic insulators.
I have a 2000 accord 4cyl. that is leaking oil from the valve cover bolts. around the rubber gromlets. do I still need to do a valve cover gasket seal job or is this a different problem??? Great video by the way!!!!!
Check the PCV valve before replacing the grommets it should rattle when you shake it. High pressures in the crankcase due to a plugged PCV valve can cause gaskets to blow and leak oil.
Most of the aftermarket valve cover gasket kits I've used include the grommets as part of the kit I've never seen them available separately. Unless you order from Honda then you can buy them separately.
This was very helpful....it did the trick...thanks very much!
Great video dude, I just did my valve cover gasket and when I put it on the gaskets for the plug wires were overlapping the spark plug tube. Is there any problems that I can have with them like that?
If the seals have rolled over they can leak.
The inner bore of the seals should tightly mate with the outer diameter of the spark plug tubes.
bushu,
thank you for all your excellent videos. I am doing my valve cover and have some glued on spark plug tube seals. I'm making turtles progress with a heat gun/razor/small picks. any suggestions?
also wondering, how would one go about replacing the bolt seals that come with the gasket set? I don't see how you would get either end of the bolt thru the little gaskets.
also I felt much more confident taking the valve cover bolts off, and I did not go the impact/pb blast route, just a 3/8 ratchet, no problem. I have a 1/4 torque wrench that I will use to replace the bolts to 86 INCH lbs.
THANKS!
The mechanical route is one method to remove RTV. You can also buy an RTV remover that will dissolve the cured silicone.
To remove the old bolt seals separate the metal from the rubber portion and cut the rubber off with side cutters. The metal half will then slip off.
Remove the rubber portion of the replacement seals from the metal portion. Slip the metal portion on the bolt first then you'll need to press the rubber piece on. I end up using a vice and a socket or shop press. I haven't found an easy way to install them.
I take it the gasket set is aftermarket? I've never tried the OE bolt seals they may slip on easier.
***** yes, its felpro, hoping it turns out to be a good one. thanks for the tip on the rtv remover, I'm going to ride my bike to autozone now! :-) I don't think I'm going to try to remove the bolt seals. I was just puzzled as to the process. thanks for your response.
Yeah I use a lot of their stuff too never had any issues with them.
Sometimes in an effort to make their parts fit multiple models or model years aftermarket manufacturers make some engineering compromises which can affect the fit.
grs por el video man
I have a 1994 honda accord lx it just started to kind of backfire and one of my sparkplug wire soak of oil what could that be bushougoma
any suggestions for when those sparkplug seals are stuck? I've gotten mine out in pieces... but they're quite bad and there's a lot left in there.
If you've removed them there shouldn't be anything left inside the bores. A seal puller or a screwdriver is all that's needed.
If someone in the past decided to smear RTV inside and that's what you're seeing. It has to be scraped out.
The Grommets on my spark plug socket are melted onto the hole...I don't know what to do🤦🏾♂️
great video man, but no torquing of fasteners?
Go into any repair facility and I guarantee you won't see them torquing every single fastener and if they did you would definitely see an increase in your bill. You eventually get a feel for how tight different sized fasteners should be. If you're just starting out and haven't developed that feel yet by all means use a torque wrench.
While there are niche places where a torque wrench is required cylinder head bolts, flywheel / flex plate bolts, bearing caps, transmission valve bodies, etc.
In the vast majority of situations it's either unnecessary or in more places than you would think impossible to get a torque wrench on the fastener due to space limitations.
Bushougoma that makes sense.
one more question. Do you suggest sticking with OEM gasket or can I get felpro or victor etc? OEM is three times the cost. which one you used in video?
I've used Felpro without any issues the gasket kit comes with the spark plug tube seals too.
Sorry but I did not catch the reason for the 4 spots that you applied a little bit of RTV? Is it necessary to apply RTV to those 4 spots?
Thank you.
The gasket is flat at those points and doesn't seal well in the corners.
So I striped one of the front bolt holes any suggestions on how to fix this? Also, it's striped but is holding for now I tried removing it with my hand but can't, will this be enough to prevent a leak?
I can't say if it will leak or not. What I can say is if you can't tighten it with a ratchet without it turning in circles it's badly stripped.
The proper fix would be to use a Helicoil kit. You drill out the existing threads, tap the hole with the special tap included, and install a spring like insert into the newly tapped hole that will reduce it to the original diameter so the original fastener will fit.
Just be sure to keep the metal shavings during drilling and tapping out of the cylinder head.
I asked a question a month ago about have oil or some fluid in spark plug if I take off top will fluid come out while trying to change seals and can I use a sealent instead of changing seal?
Oil won't come out when you remove the valve cover. It it returns to the oil pan by gravity after the engine is shut off.
Oil in the spark plug tubes usually only occurs on the F22B2 engines. The upper donut seals usually aren't the issue it's the lower o-rings under the rocker assembly that harden and cause leaks.
No RTV won't solve the issue. With complete valve cover gasket kits being so cheap it doesn't make sense to waste time with RTV.
You'll also need a torque wrench and the service manual with the torque specs and torque order. Since the rocker assembly also houses the top half of the camshaft bearings.
Does the gasket kit come with the 4 spark plugs seal?
Great video btw!
Not always some only come with the gasket the complete kits come with the gasket, bolt sealing grommets, and the plug seals.
mine is leaking from the bolts that hold the cover. does the gasket cover that too
Any decent valve gasket kit will include the rubber seals that go around the bolts. To remove the old ones separate the metal washers from the rubber seals and cut them off with side cutters. To install the new seals you will need to press fit them. Install the seals on the bolts and thread the bolts into the cylinder head without the valve cover on. As you tighten the bolts the seals will press on remove the bolts and you'll be able to press them on by hand the rest of the way.
They are a tight fit and this is the only way I've found to install them without damaging the rubber.
so you don't need to use any sealent for the Spark plug gaskets because I used some and my gaskets, almost all of them failed on me. when I removed my old ones the first time they had a tiny bit of sealent on them. but do you even have to use it?
No you shouldn't need to use any RTV on the plug seals.
Unless someone in the past really nicked up the bore in the valve cover that they seal to remove the old seals.
Be aware if you have a F22B2 engine with the rearward facing spark plug tubes you'll also have to replace the lower o-ring seals to stop the leak. This involves removing the rocker assembly. Replacing just the upper seals rarely solves the issue.
Ok thank you. Yeah I just installed them without it and its running good. no leaks. Awesome.
Hey i would really appreciate if you can help. I have a 97 acura cl 2.2 and it has two codes one for the egr insufficient flow and eld output voltage. Ok now the car sometimes idles really rough, and when you try to geet off first gear, the gas like loses pressure and its a rough off first gear. When it isnt acting up i can get off smoothly. Everytime i give the gas a blip the rpms go down all the way to 400 rpms. Now i read online that it needs a new fuse box. Can that solve the issue? Whats your input? Thanks
Try cleaning the EGR passages first the individual passages to each cylinder usually plug up unevenly causing some cylinders to receive more exhaust gasses than others causing a loss of power when the EGR valve is open.
Each cylinder must produce an equal amount of power otherwise the engine will run rough. One cylinder being leaned out (by the exhaust gas) more than the other will upset this power balance.
Three bolts to pull off the fuel rail and the EGR plate is right under there. There will be a bunch of passages inside the plate to clean and 1 hole in the intake runner for each cylinder to clean out.
A drill bit for the intake holes, a screwdriver to clean the carbon from the passages in the EGR plate, and a can of brake cleaner to remove any residue is all you need.
Alright thanks alot for the speedy response
As for the ELD yes it's part of the fuse box but it can be tested. Look for a 3 pin connector to back probe with a sewing needle. It will have the following wire colors Black, Green / Red, and Black / Yellow.
Turn the ignition switch on put one meter probe on battery negative and check the Black / Yellow wire you should see battery voltage. Move your probe to the black wire on the connector you should see close to 0 volts (low voltage drop).
Now you can check the ELD output it's a Green / Red wire if you see 5 volts on it the ELD is bad.
***** hi, ok i checked the fuse box and noticed that the eld connector wasnt connected. It was off to the side all filthy. Should i just connected back on after i clean it with a towel or is there a process i should follow. Thanks
Ivan Soto The factory connectors were packed with dielectric grease.
So unless there is corrosion on the terminals there is no cause for concern.
This does beg the question why was it disconnected in the first place?
I already got oil on my spark plugs. If i clean them can i still re use them?
Ricardo Medina In most cases yes the but the plug wires can sustain permanent damage since the oil destroys the rubber.
since one of my plugs is fiiled with oil should I clean it or replace all of my spark plug plugs?
+Miguel Lopez Both the plugs and wires should be replaced especially if it's been leaking for awhile the oil swells and destroys the rubber boots.
Only use the OE specified NGK or Nippondenso plugs these plugs are inexpensive and reliable don't waste money on fancy plugs that weren't designed for your engine. The plug part numbers should be on an under hood label if the labels gone the part numbers can be found in the owners manual you can download one off the Honda website.
i know this is a really old video but the Honda Accord i have is the LX and it's not VTEC. does anyone know if it has secondary rings under the rockers? i don't want to take it off if i don't have too but i can't find online anyway to indicate if my car has that or not.
I believe only the EX came with the F22B1 and VTEC it has thin walled spark plug tubes and no lower o-rings.
The LX and DX came with the F22B2 no VTEC and does have lower o-rings.
Just pull off a plug wire and take a look if you see a thin walled tube running from the valve cover to the plugs you don't have them. If you see a piece of machined metal (part of the rocker assembly) you have them.
I have a 98 honda accord LX with the F23A1 on this type of engine do i only change the upper plug seals? and does it have the lower o-rings also that i have to change?
No lower o-rings it uses tubes like the F22B1 in the video so there's only upper donuts in the valve cover to replace.
The tubes can still leak from time to time but it's rare compared to the o-rings.
While doing this the hose that you removed after the pvc broke. What do I do about this?
You mean the angled piece of line for the PCV fresh air?
I usually buy replacement line in bulk from the auto parts store but since this one has a molded 90 degree bend you can only get it from the dealer.
If you mean the straight length of line that goes to the PCV valve you can replace it will a length of SAE 30R7 emission grade hose any other type of rubber hose may break down under the constant exposure to blow by gasses.
The stock hose is metric but a 5/16" ID line will replace it. Most auto parts stores will have short lengths you can cut to size.
Ok thanks
Thanks for your help. How long does this take to do?
Kevin
Kevin McGinn 30 minutes tops if you've done it before.
Thank you. I f not been on in a while
Would this be the same on a 99 Honda accord 2.3l 4 cyl vtec? I know it might be a different gasket, but my engine looks very similar and was wondering if it would be the same process?
Iron Nuka is the same to 98-02 on 4 cylinder models
If you call that flat head a screwdriver one more time 😂😂😂
I just bought a 96 accord ex it hasn't had a tune up in about 2 years cel says heated o2 sensor 1 bank 2 and misfiring on cyl. 2 3 and 4 could it be just a tune up and o2? Please someone respond asap car has 140k
First check the basics make sure the wires are in good shape and the crimped terminals on each end are still securely connected to the wires. Check the insulation to make sure the wires aren't arcing. Check the plug insulators for damage or carbon tracks that could cause them to arc to the block. You can also pull the plugs from the misfiring cylinders and inspect them. Light tan is a normal color there are plenty of other references with pictures on how to read plugs.
Inspect the distributor cap terminals and rotor blade for wear.
Also if the vehicle has never had the plugs, cap, and rotor replaced now is a good time. Just be sure to use the factory recommended NGK or Nippondenso plugs.
Since you have a scan tool take a look at some PIDs.
What are the long and short term fuel trim numbers for banks 1 and 2?
Is the S1B2 O2 sensor referenced in the code switching from rich to lean (above and below 450mV) or is it pegged high or low? You should see a sine wave like pattern with the vehicle running after the engine has warmed up.
can anyone help me find impact sockets under 15 dollars
Busted my nose twice trying to take them gasket rings off with that $10 tool from AutoZone I purchased, them shits were not as easy for me to pop off...LoL Great video though thanks it helped me save $150 for someone else to do it for me...
Yeah I have days like that too. On some vehicles the job goes smoothly and on others you have to fight tooth and nail to get it done.
Thanks For Watching.