You are a natural teacher. I wish I had professors in college who were as good an instructor as are you. You have natural ability to not only explain what you are doing and how, but most importantly, WHY. The “why” is the most important aspect of teaching - and learning - because then the what and how just follow logically from “why.” Plus you share the lessons you’ve learned through mistakes. Mistakes are for learning. I now want to buy a classic car and restore it. Hmm, can I talk my wife into the expense? 😊 Anyway, thank you for all of your videos
Kinda funny that early thirties auto engine has "standard " shell type bearings. I am restoring a 1939 John Deere B engine and both the rod and main bearings are babbit. Piston setup is the same. Even has the same style pin clips. I used Harts Machine in Cecil Ohio and they did a super job. Didn't know you could polish a little tin and lead to look like that. All I had to give them was the journal size and they bored and polished to fit. You use shims to compensate for wear. Keep the boxes for the nos parts as they show providence of the build. Good series.........
I am so glad I found this. I will be rebuilding a spitfire flathead 6 soon in a 49 Chrysler. This series wash excellent. I was expecting episode 6 with the engine running?
AS I watched you holding the piston and rod installing the rings I thought I would throw you a tip , I took a tall plastic coffee can turned it upside down , cut a slot in the bottom and stick the rod in the slot . Makes it really easy to install the rings . Been doing it for years with the same coffee can .
One benefit of getting older, forced to were eye protection! I carry my "safety glasses" in my shirt pocket always. Haven't had an eye injury since I turned 40.
SIMPLY THE FINEST ENGINE BUILDING CONTENT ON RUclips...WITHOUT QUESTION ! I JUST WISH THAT YOU HAD 650K SUBSCRIBERS NOT 65K !!! THAT WAY YOU COULD CHURN OUT A VIDEO A WEEK... ALWAYS YEARNING FOR YOUR CONTENT...THANKS FOR YOUR HARD WORK !
What a brilliant video. Really enjoying these and your attention to detail is fantastic. I got burnt on my first attempt at engine rebuilding by end float and would love to see how you correct that if out if spec. Maybe covered elsewhere though. Thanks again.
Probably not just that ring tech is better, but oil tech is also vastly improved, especially since it was the 2nd oil ring deleted. Are the rod and main bearings, being new old stock, babbitt or ... ?
@@Myvintageiron7512 I've never worked on an engine that old, I have heard of casting babbitt bearings, but didn't know if the old inserts like you installed were made using babbitt as the surface material is why I asked.
Question: Does Egge provide ring gap spec? I'm thinking that the metals used might be different from back then and might expand differently. But clearly more gap is safer than less gap.
Watched tons of your videos, thank you for posting all these... PS Do you know you sound like Jimmy Stewart? I mean about 99%! (PS I am stuck with sounding like Joe Pesci)... PS I am going to replace one piston, keeping the weight the same, a chevy... it always sucked, only 60k miles and rarely use the truck but drives me crazy on that low compression on that cylinder. Who knows, maybe the tolerances will be okay on the cylinder and I will just have to replace rings... Thanks for all your awesome insights... Most enjoyable to watch and fall asleep to...
Those are some long rods aren’t they. That’s got to be an undersquare engine. Probably nice low end torque. Was the slant six the reason Chrysler phased these engines out?
Just curious , why not rework the original rods ? I have purchased "rebuilt" rods in the past and had to work on them more than once . I have always tried to rework the originals if at all possible .
Hey, I am planning to rebuild a 230ci and needed to know if the ID and OD specs for the engine components that are in the plymouth manual you have will work. It shows that the displacments in that manual are the 201ci and 218ci. Are the clearances for all components the same between the 201ci and the 230ci?
Re . episode #1 . I have known Mr. Burnbaum forever , nice guy . I used to live near him . question : did you install hardened exhaust seats to use unleaded fuels ? BTW , where is episode #2 ?
Thank you . You have THE best engine building channel on youtube . So many others skim over the stuff that is so important . It is no help to see engines screaming on the dyno and not knowing how it got there . thanks again , Tom
What’s the best way to get ahold of you I have a few questions on Ford FE motors I would comment on one of those videos but I feel this is a better way do to how recent this video is thanks in advance.
God I hate c-clips, spiral locks are my go to on full floats. But I can see using c-clips on this old girl as she's not going to be a high power maker.
1947 Plymouth here. Thanks for the informative step-by-step process. Good job!
You are a natural teacher. I wish I had professors in college who were as good an instructor as are you. You have natural ability to not only explain what you are doing and how, but most importantly, WHY. The “why” is the most important aspect of teaching - and learning - because then the what and how just follow logically from “why.” Plus you share the lessons you’ve learned through mistakes. Mistakes are for learning.
I now want to buy a classic car and restore it. Hmm, can I talk my wife into the expense? 😊
Anyway, thank you for all of your videos
Kinda funny that early thirties auto engine has "standard " shell type bearings. I am restoring a 1939 John Deere B engine and both the rod and main bearings are babbit. Piston setup is the same. Even has the same style pin clips. I used Harts Machine in Cecil Ohio and they did a super job. Didn't know you could polish a little tin and lead to look like that. All I had to give them was the journal size and they bored and polished to fit. You use shims to compensate for wear. Keep the boxes for the nos parts as they show providence of the build. Good series.........
I am so glad I found this. I will be rebuilding a spitfire flathead 6 soon in a 49 Chrysler. This series wash excellent. I was expecting episode 6 with the engine running?
Hey thanks for the excellent information, you have answered some questions for me!! These have been an excellent series of videos! Thanks Bro!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you SO MUCH! Please keep up this rebuild project. I need your videos to finish my 52 Plymouth lol.
AS I watched you holding the piston and rod installing the rings I thought I would throw you a tip , I took a tall plastic coffee can turned it upside down , cut a slot in the bottom and stick the rod in the slot . Makes it really easy to install the rings . Been doing it for years with the same coffee can .
One benefit of getting older, forced to were eye protection! I carry my "safety glasses" in my shirt pocket always. Haven't had an eye injury since I turned 40.
Thank you again. Ole Jimmy Durante (1939 DeSoto) will appreciate the education your video shares.
SIMPLY THE FINEST ENGINE BUILDING CONTENT ON RUclips...WITHOUT QUESTION !
I JUST WISH THAT YOU HAD 650K SUBSCRIBERS NOT 65K !!! THAT WAY YOU COULD CHURN OUT A VIDEO A WEEK... ALWAYS YEARNING FOR YOUR CONTENT...THANKS FOR YOUR HARD WORK !
THX
This is like being in VoTech class all over again. You'd make a good teacher.
He is a teacher.
As per usual your videos are very informative! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for all the invaluable information.
What a brilliant video. Really enjoying these and your attention to detail is fantastic. I got burnt on my first attempt at engine rebuilding by end float and would love to see how you correct that if out if spec. Maybe covered elsewhere though. Thanks again.
Two uploads in one day way to go man 👍
Egge pistons are pretty damn strong, been running low 13s high 12s with a 413 mopar.
Love this and learning a lot!
With the new ring technology, would the old Plymouth spec for gaps be the value to use on them (different expansion, etc.)?
Probably not just that ring tech is better, but oil tech is also vastly improved, especially since it was the 2nd oil
ring deleted. Are the rod and main bearings, being new old stock, babbitt or ... ?
I agree the oil is much better the bearings are NOS not a Babbitt Chrysler always used inserts in there engines
@@Myvintageiron7512 I've never worked on an engine that old, I have heard of casting babbitt bearings, but didn't know if the old inserts like you installed were made using babbitt as the surface material is why I asked.
Question: Does Egge provide ring gap spec? I'm thinking that the metals used might be different from back then and might expand differently. But clearly more gap is safer than less gap.
Watched tons of your videos, thank you for posting all these... PS Do you know you sound like Jimmy Stewart? I mean about 99%! (PS I am stuck with sounding like Joe Pesci)... PS I am going to replace one piston, keeping the weight the same, a chevy... it always sucked, only 60k miles and rarely use the truck but drives me crazy on that low compression on that cylinder. Who knows, maybe the tolerances will be okay on the cylinder and I will just have to replace rings... Thanks for all your awesome insights... Most enjoyable to watch and fall asleep to...
I've recently had rings that were directional and did not have dot or top Mark they had pain in the ass bevels you had to match up.
Very informative infrmation.Thank you.
Some c clips have a flat side on them and have to be installed in a particular orientation Ever heard of that
cool stuff! thanks
Is the rod nut torque spec for dry or oiled? Oiling the threads can cause a 25 - 50% greater tension on the rod bolts.
Thank you for the continued exceptional videos... How do you feel about plasti-guage?
it's not as accurate as gages but it works
I had a yz 80 c and I put the c clip in out of wack and it was smudged into and around the boor
Those are some long rods aren’t they. That’s got to be an undersquare engine. Probably nice low end torque. Was the slant six the reason Chrysler phased these engines out?
Since you didn't bring it up, I assume the piston pin snap rings aren't directional, or one way. Are they universal?
I work for mahle and the rings for them have paint on one side of the gap and it goes towards the left side
Just curious , why not rework the original rods ? I have purchased "rebuilt" rods in the past and had to work on them more than once . I have always tried to rework the originals if at all possible .
They were really bad had some twist and major OOR
Hey, I am planning to rebuild a 230ci and needed to know if the ID and OD specs for the engine components that are in the plymouth manual you have will work. It shows that the displacments in that manual are the 201ci and 218ci. Are the clearances for all components the same between the 201ci and the 230ci?
im not sure
So where does the hole that's on the connect rod which way does it go?
Re . episode #1 . I have known Mr. Burnbaum forever , nice guy . I used to live near him . question : did you install hardened exhaust seats to use unleaded fuels ? BTW , where is episode #2 ?
Episode 2 amd 3 are already posted Plymouth and Chrysler flat heads all have hardened ex seats from the factory
Thank you . You have THE best engine building channel on youtube . So many others skim over the stuff that is so important . It is no help to see engines screaming on the dyno and not knowing how it got there . thanks again , Tom
Where did you get the valve seats, and what part did you install them
The Chrysler flatheads all came with hardened seats from the factory so we didn't need to install them
What’s the best way to get ahold of you I have a few questions on Ford FE motors I would comment on one of those videos but I feel this is a better way do to how recent this video is thanks in advance.
facebook myvintageiron7512
i know its been a while but all those rods look bent to me
What's a Plynouth? J/k
I thought i knew everything, guess not, im still learning
God I hate c-clips, spiral locks are my go to on full floats. But I can see using c-clips on this old girl as she's not going to be a high power maker.
Your title you spelled Plymouth wrong, sorry I'm that guy
Yep good call we aren't working on a Ply N outh