I like it when you say anyone can do what they set their mind to. In truth, you and small percentage of people can do it because you and they are very capable human's. The majority of people are seemingly clueless and have to pay others to do what they can't. But that's ok, they most likely have a talent even if it is as yet undiscovered. I wish I was building it with you, purely as a friend of your family.
Mr Post frame!!! Check your local steel shop. The cardboard centers that the rolls of steel come on can be used as sono tubes. They give away the centers for free and that’s what we use. We cut them about 18” in depth, then rip just one side and screw it together in the hole. Works great.
love the idea for the sonotubes. Thanks I will be utilizing this idea to keep costs down; every little bit helps ;) Just FYI you can have the concrete company put retarding additives into the mix that will slow down the cure time; of course that adds cost, but sometimes it's worth it.
Why don’t you take the same approach as your porch with the rest of your posts? I saw in another video where you just let the rebar go into the tube and later just poured the finished floor under the bracket. Seems like the squared up foundation extension is the winner
Great videos. I found 1 of your videos, but not went back to watch from the beginning. We are getting ready to build a pole building with living quarters upstairs and mostly garage downstairs, except back with with laundry and a bathroom downstairs. Much smaller size though (30x40). My question is what footing spacing did you use and is there a standard? I didn’t hear you mention that.
I actually found the answer in later videos that your footings are all 8’ on center apart around the entire perimeter. You said that they could be farther on the width, but you did 8’. Really enjoying your videos. You are an amazing, hardworking guy. I wonder when you sleep?
Your plumbing those on the wrong axis. The open side you can adjust the beam before drilling the holes. The plate side can not be adjusted so you need to plumb the plate side.
I am trying to figure out the best size peirs to put it. I am doing post a beam so my posts are 8x8.. what size peirs do you think I should use. I will be doing a slab like yours later. Thank you in advance 😊. I am rewatching your build as I start mine
I'd like to build a home with lots of stone using some classical methods someday. Nothing crazy and huge, but what's the rule of thumb for footers on buildings made with a lot of stone/brick? The frostline out here is about 36-40" below grade, but I'm thinking that a heavy structure like this would need to go deeper conservatively. For example, a Walmart is a big cinder-block structure. how deep/wide are footers for something like that?
If you already have a video addressing my question. Please point me to it. But, what are is the advantages/disadvantages in using "post footings" (not sure if that is the correct terminology) as apposed to a traditional footing?
How much top soil did u have to pull out and how high above ground grade did u build up the gravel? Also if u were to start over would u still go post over pier or would u do post on frost wall? Thx
What is your post spacing? And why you chose that spacing? Just getting started with my plans. Great Videos. We live in KCMO. If its not to weird we would love to take a day drive and see the MAD COUNTY build.
8’ on center. That is a typical spacing for a post frame and it worked good with the window sizes I wanted the open area of our house. Shoot us an email and we can figure something out. Info@marshallremodel.com
Awesome man. We are about to start a pole barn house in December. Found your channel tonight.... I am excited to get started with mine and excited to get up to date on your videos. Where are you guys located?
This series of videos has been very interesting and vert educational. I am planning on doing the same thing but with a smaller house and larger shop with large RV parking. I am curious about the Sonotube footing vs using a standard footing and short stub wall. It seems to me like it would be easier and more stable to use a full footing with a short stub wall that has all of the brackets either wet set or bolted to the top of the foundation wall like you did on your storm shelter. Any thoughts on building a post frame structure on a full foundation?
I have seen it done. As far as being stable, post frame buildings were designed to carry the weight or load through the posts into the ground so either way it will be stable as long as your footing wall goes deep enough in the ground. I would do a 48” footing wall if I went with a continuous wall. Not sure where your located but I would check with your county for local requirements. A continuous footing would have cost me another 4-5k. There are pros and cons to both so you have to decide what is best for you. I will talk more about the way I did it in another video and why.
@@MrPostFrame Thank you for the reply. I think the height of the wall will depend on how flat the lot is. When I built my shop which is a typical stick built building that is 54' x 48', the county required an 18" wide by 8" deep continuous footing with 2 rows of #2 rebar and J bars every 24". What is your overall budget for this project when completed.
Great Videos! I am just getting familiar with Post Frame Construction. I am a Home Designer and have a client that is interested in this type of Construction. Did you set the top of the Sonotube flush with the Finish Floor of the Building? Thanks in advance for your response.
@@MrPostFrame Oh, okay, thank you for the reply. I must have misunderstood, I thought the purpose of the Sonotube and Wet set Brackets was to keep the Posts out of the concrete?
String line was set up for the exterior dimensions of the building, so I left room for the 1 1/2" girt. You can set string line to go right against the post if you'd like.
Just depends on what size of structure your building, local codes, and where you are located. A monolithic slab might be and option for you. It is a slab that has thickened edges to support the load of your structure.
Western Montana. Planning on doing a 40'x72' one story house. 9' interior walls. Doing the monolithic slab, would you wind up using column brackets that are anchored in with red heads instead of wet sets? Also, does this method mean I'll have the plumbing, radiant floor heat, and all complete before and structure gets erected? By the way, your place is awesome! Been a real inspiration watching the progress! Thanks for the response.
@@austinmccollum4168 Wouldn't do a monolithic pour (shallow foundation) in Montana. If you're rocky, get a backhoe and either dig your post holes or change from post-frame to stud construction and dig a continuous strip footing.
The brackets he is using in the video are excellent. They are moment brackets, which means they can transmit bending moments from the post to the concrete pier. This in effect creates a fixed base condition as opposed to a pin base connection like you would get with any of the simpson column base with the exception of their new(ish) MPBZ connectors. The fixed base condition is the same as if you had buried your post in the ground and reduces your effective column length by about 1/2 compared to a pinned base. All other things held equal, this will allow you to reduce the size of the posts you need.
I'd definitely use rebars here. Here is a good video about why (talks about concrete properties and how it behaves depending on variety of stresses) ruclips.net/video/cZINeaDjisY/видео.html
@@MrPostFrame dang it looks big ! Im actually about to build one just like yours but it be 40'x60' and I'm liking the 18' more then a 16' with loft. Looking at yours I wonder if I may be going too big..lol
Alex Crochet I drew up my plans and then went through Menards. I’m not sure where you live but it ended up being the best deal because I bought it on their 11% rebate sale. They own midwest manufacturing company which builds all their trusses and columns.
I like it when you say anyone can do what they set their mind to. In truth, you and small percentage of people can do it because you and they are very capable human's. The majority of people are seemingly clueless and have to pay others to do what they can't. But that's ok, they most likely have a talent even if it is as yet undiscovered. I wish I was building it with you, purely as a friend of your family.
Anybody can learn to do anything.
Mr Post frame!!! Check your local steel shop. The cardboard centers that the rolls of steel come on can be used as sono tubes. They give away the centers for free and that’s what we use. We cut them about 18” in depth, then rip just one side and screw it together in the hole. Works great.
Yes! We’ve done that before as well
Stickler for detail!, Nice work. Wish all builders were like him!
Thank you!
Cat help but admire a man who admit a mistake and correct it in a public style manner. Thanks. Old rule, measure twice, cut once.
Your technique is good and effective
Thanks!
love the idea for the sonotubes. Thanks I will be utilizing this idea to keep costs down; every little bit helps ;) Just FYI you can have the concrete company put retarding additives into the mix that will slow down the cure time; of course that adds cost, but sometimes it's worth it.
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped trim down your budget. Email us info@marshallremodel.com if you have questions about your project.
Love your videos! I think we need to hear from Donnie more! :)
I think you’re right! He’s definitely been a huge help.
Why don’t you take the same approach as your porch with the rest of your posts? I saw in another video where you just let the rebar go into the tube and later just poured the finished floor under the bracket.
Seems like the squared up foundation extension is the winner
Enjoying the videos. Wondering if it wouldn't have been easier to run a second line set back the 1.5" instead of using a 2x4 to align the offset.
Yo brother love the build progress so far.
Quick question: Would this be stronger with rebar or do you not find it necessary? Thanks!
Great videos. I found 1 of your videos, but not went back to watch from the beginning. We are getting ready to build a pole building with living quarters upstairs and mostly garage downstairs, except back with with laundry and a bathroom downstairs. Much smaller size though (30x40). My question is what footing spacing did you use and is there a standard? I didn’t hear you mention that.
I actually found the answer in later videos that your footings are all 8’ on center apart around the entire perimeter. You said that they could be farther on the width, but you did 8’. Really enjoying your videos. You are an amazing, hardworking guy. I wonder when you sleep?
When pouring concrete get plenty of personnel to help plus two more people.
Can you explain how you made that mock up of your posts to make your paint markings?
Your plumbing those on the wrong axis. The open side you can adjust the beam before drilling the holes. The plate side can not be adjusted so you need to plumb the plate side.
I am trying to figure out the best size peirs to put it. I am doing post a beam so my posts are 8x8.. what size peirs do you think I should use. I will be doing a slab like yours later. Thank you in advance 😊. I am rewatching your build as I start mine
18" diameter auger will probably give you 20" piers. Ours are 48-56" deep.
Thank you. I ended up doing 24" and went as deal as it would go.. I am on a mountain.. so most are 3 or 4' deep
I'd like to build a home with lots of stone using some classical methods someday. Nothing crazy and huge, but what's the rule of thumb for footers on buildings made with a lot of stone/brick? The frostline out here is about 36-40" below grade, but I'm thinking that a heavy structure like this would need to go deeper conservatively.
For example, a Walmart is a big cinder-block structure. how deep/wide are footers for something like that?
If you already have a video addressing my question. Please point me to it. But, what are is the advantages/disadvantages in using "post footings" (not sure if that is the correct terminology) as apposed to a traditional footing?
How much top soil did u have to pull out and how high above ground grade did u build up the gravel? Also if u were to start over would u still go post over pier or would u do post on frost wall? Thx
What size of rock / how deep did you put down for this stage of the build? Also, what relative height to finished slab are the tops of the footers?
I'm also curious what determines how high the concrete piers sit above ground, hoping someone can drop some knowledge on this.
Find a metal shop and use there coil tubes (which are garbage to them)
What is your post spacing? And why you chose that spacing? Just getting started with my plans. Great Videos. We live in KCMO. If its not to weird we would love to take a day drive and see the MAD COUNTY build.
8’ on center. That is a typical spacing for a post frame and it worked good with the window sizes I wanted the open area of our house. Shoot us an email and we can figure something out. Info@marshallremodel.com
Thank you. I will email.
What determines how high the concrete footings sit above the ground? Is this where the slab will be, so finished floor height?
Awesome man. We are about to start a pole barn house in December.
Found your channel tonight.... I am excited to get started with mine and excited to get up to date on your videos.
Where are you guys located?
Southern Pines Farm thank you. I appreciate it. We are in Madison County Iowa.
This series of videos has been very interesting and vert educational. I am planning on doing the same thing but with a smaller house and larger shop with large RV parking. I am curious about the Sonotube footing vs using a standard footing and short stub wall. It seems to me like it would be easier and more stable to use a full footing with a short stub wall that has all of the brackets either wet set or bolted to the top of the foundation wall like you did on your storm shelter. Any thoughts on building a post frame structure on a full foundation?
I have seen it done. As far as being stable, post frame buildings were designed to carry the weight or load through the posts into the ground so either way it will be stable as long as your footing wall goes deep enough in the ground. I would do a 48” footing wall if I went with a continuous wall. Not sure where your located but I would check with your county for local requirements.
A continuous footing would have cost me another 4-5k. There are pros and cons to both so you have to decide what is best for you. I will talk more about the way I did it in another video and why.
@@MrPostFrame Thank you for the reply. I think the height of the wall will depend on how flat the lot is. When I built my shop which is a typical stick built building that is 54' x 48', the county required an 18" wide by 8" deep continuous footing with 2 rows of #2 rebar and J bars every 24".
What is your overall budget for this project when completed.
How much time did you have to set brackets before the concrete started setting up?
why didnt you pour the footings by hand? what is the specific reason for this?
Great Videos! I am just getting familiar with Post Frame Construction. I am a Home Designer and have a client that is interested in this type of Construction. Did you set the top of the Sonotube flush with the Finish Floor of the Building? Thanks in advance for your response.
Sonotubes end up beneath the finished concrete. We add 2” of foam insulation and then 5-6” of concrete. So they sit between 7-8” below finished floor.
@@MrPostFrame Oh, okay, thank you for the reply. I must have misunderstood, I thought the purpose of the Sonotube and Wet set Brackets was to keep the Posts out of the concrete?
how do you determine how far out of the ground the sonotube needs to be?
where did you get your wet set brackets
Here is a list of the exterior sources with links marshallremodel.com/mcb-exterior-sources/
I don't understand why you're putting the wet set brackets one 2x6's width away from the line that's set up. Could you explain that?
String line was set up for the exterior dimensions of the building, so I left room for the 1 1/2" girt. You can set string line to go right against the post if you'd like.
What do you recommend doing for footings if your ground is extremely rocky and drilling 18" holes isn't really an option?
Just depends on what size of structure your building, local codes, and where you are located. A monolithic slab might be and option for you. It is a slab that has thickened edges to support the load of your structure.
Western Montana. Planning on doing a 40'x72' one story house. 9' interior walls. Doing the monolithic slab, would you wind up using column brackets that are anchored in with red heads instead of wet sets? Also, does this method mean I'll have the plumbing, radiant floor heat, and all complete before and structure gets erected?
By the way, your place is awesome! Been a real inspiration watching the progress! Thanks for the response.
@@austinmccollum4168 Wouldn't do a monolithic pour (shallow foundation) in Montana. If you're rocky, get a backhoe and either dig your post holes or change from post-frame to stud construction and dig a continuous strip footing.
Your thoughts on the bracket's for post vs a post in the ground?
I am a fan of posts out of the ground. I personally love the brackets.
The brackets he is using in the video are excellent. They are moment brackets, which means they can transmit bending moments from the post to the concrete pier. This in effect creates a fixed base condition as opposed to a pin base connection like you would get with any of the simpson column base with the exception of their new(ish) MPBZ connectors. The fixed base condition is the same as if you had buried your post in the ground and reduces your effective column length by about 1/2 compared to a pinned base. All other things held equal, this will allow you to reduce the size of the posts you need.
Wood doesn't belong in the ground.
I'd definitely use rebars here. Here is a good video about why (talks about concrete properties and how it behaves depending on variety of stresses) ruclips.net/video/cZINeaDjisY/видео.html
What size was your house? 60' x 40' x18?
Alex Crochet 48x48x18 is the house part
@@MrPostFrame dang it looks big ! Im actually about to build one just like yours but it be 40'x60' and I'm liking the 18' more then a 16' with loft. Looking at yours I wonder if I may be going too big..lol
Alex Crochet lol. It definitely feels pretty big. I went with 18’ so I could have 9’ ceilings downstairs and 8’ upstairs.
@@MrPostFrame What company was it that u ordered your 3 and 4 ply post? Did u order a build kit or just buy all separate?
Alex Crochet I drew up my plans and then went through Menards. I’m not sure where you live but it ended up being the best deal because I bought it on their 11% rebate sale. They own midwest manufacturing company which builds all their trusses and columns.