I'm trying to slowly get to publishing two videos per week. I have way too much old hardware that needs to be talked about, and then maybe find a new home!
just a few tipps to ease your work on the chip: 1- clean with a static-safe brush and some isoprop to remove crud 2- go over on the pins + pads with glass fiber pen under the microscope 3- apply some fresh solder 4- don't stay as long as you did on the pads with the wick and the soldering iron as you risk to do some damage the longer you stay, and the stronger you wick as you could experience it in this repair
Yes, I kept going for too long on those pins and pads - especially the area with the corrosion. Thanks for the tips, I will keep that in mind for my next repair.
@@CoruscationsOfIneptitude Vinegar is also good to remove surface corrosion. The glass fiber pen does a similar job as the vinegar albeit being mechanically...
SLi forever!!! Happy for you, keep that dream alive :D A good friend gave me his "old" one in the 90's which went into my Dell PIII system. The only regret was never having 3 screens plugged in at once. I must've used that setup until 2004.
Wow, using that Voodoo 2 setup until 2004 is quite a stretch! But it was some voodoo technology having two cards in a system and double the performance.
True, it is a 90 degree connector though. I have a donor card from which I took the FBI chip, however, I'm planning to revive that card 😂. There is no such thing as a donor 3Dfx card!!!
Great job!! I would suggest that before you use flux and solder to clean the pads, use some vinegar and baking soda with a tooth brush to get most of the oxidation off first then clean with flux and solder. It should make it easier.
@@bitsundbolts yeah I put vinegar on wait a minute then sprinkle on baking soda and brush with a toothbrush then rince it off. The baking soda neutralizes acids and bases and is a very mild abrasive.
Games of late 1990s mentioned voodoo here and there in the documentations and back in the day i had no idea what voodoo is and i remember i looked up an old dictionary and it said it is a kind of magic and it made me as a child even more confused. Internet wasn't really available where i lived and my poor English even worsened the problem. 😅 Good old days.
It makes me so happy seeing you save these wonderful video cards. My Voodoo 1 card from my childhood is carefully stored in antistatic bubble wrap. I hope to get it running again someday. Brings back great memories playing games like Quake, Quake 2, etc.
Gorgeous! The Voodoo 1 and 2 fixes! Your SLI (Voodoo 2) is working perfectly. Yes that glitch in Unreal is there (as you pass the top of the castle and the stone seems to vanish and come back) Love that scene!
Yes, that glitch is indeed there, I have seen it multiple times on different cards. That black screen however only appeared with this Voodoo 2. My other cards work perfectly in SLI.
I have never seen surface caps appear shrivel like that, usually just corrode, but lose their entire housing? Wow. Awesome job as always. Edit: Heart dropped at that pad.
Awesome job for some awesome cards. You have quite the collection. I just started mine with a voodoo 3 2000. I doubt I will own any hi dollar cards. But to have one in my Pii 450 system nice.
I hope you'll get a few nice cards for your collection! Having those cards is nice and you preserve a piece of computing history. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Honestly, computing has come a LONG way in the last twenty years, but, this era of computing was so much more fun. And I am thankful for folks like yourself saving hardware every chance given. I myself work trying to save vehicles, mostly 1990s Honda cars. I own a 1992 Honda Civic with 305,000 miles on it and I am acquiring a 1999 Honda Civic with about 200,000 miles on it. They are beat up and bruised, but have so much potential left like these old graphics cards. I help a friend with his 1993 Acura Integra, which currently is in the process of getting a new engine wiring harness as old unnecessary and hacked wiring is pulled out. Also help with his 2007 Acura TL, and recently helping keep 2 Chevrolet cars going as well. Sorry for the tangent, it is often relaxing to find other people saving, any kind of technology. :Edit: Sorry, just in the off chance anyone reads this far, if you did not know, Acura is the luxury brand name of Honda here in the USA and a few other countries just in case there might be any confusion. I do know people here that still did not know this till recently.
Interesting! I did come across the name Acura a few times, but I didn't know it is the luxury brand of Honda. It's nice to preserve old technology because this is what we have used in the past. It doesn't matter if it's a car, a phone, or a PC - they all link to memories from way back for many of us. And that is what makes us preserve them. I wish you all the best with your future projects and hope they turn out well!
I work to keep old vehicles on the road it makes more sense to me for the over all environment than buying new. To me, it is far less wasteful to keep old machines going when its possiblem.
BuB over here's going to single-handedly cause a crash in 3Dfx hardware prices with all those repaired cards flooding the market. 😂 You're on a roll, m8!
Really love these videos. Have you heard anything more about the Voodoo diagnostics tool Witchery? I have a some Voodoo cards to diagnose. Really keen for the tool to be released ;-)
I understand. I am in touch with Maksim, the author of the tool. He is working hard on finalizing the tool. Once he publishes it, I will update all of you as soon as possible.
It's so strange that they used 2 x 100nF decoupling capacitors in parallel instead of one 220nF capacitor but I guess that they got a pretty good deal for the 100nF ones and decided to use 2 instead of 1 in those places.
I'm not yet at a point where I would judge the design choice of the engineers. However, someone mentioned to me that you should keep the number of components down or reduce the number of different components. I guess it was better to just go with 100nF all the way.
Not strange. A 100nF capacitor ceases to be a capacitor at about 16MHz, if you want decoupling at higher frequencies you use a lower value like 10nF or 1nF in parallell with the 100nF.
@@goranekstrom708 Yes, you are correct however the measured capacitor values showed two 100nF ones instead of 100nF with 100pF in parallel as we were duing back in the day when I was working at Johnson Controlls. That is the strange part of this because if their design required 200nF that means that high frequency decoupling was not an issue and using single 220nF capacitor was probably OK.
@@VladoT oh, I only saw him measure one of them for each location? Also, a single 220nF lowers the self resonance frequency even further so maybe 2x100nF was the "sweet spot".
I have never seen solder have a plasticity like that where it does as you show on the Voodoo 2 card. I learned something new today. That was surprising to see.
L1, L12 and L13, by the looks of it would be irrelevant and, if you needed to, could be bridged. From the traces it looks like that's just the Output Filter for the VGA Output... But good on you on fixing them!
I didn't check where those components connect to, but could be that those components are irrelevant. Those Voodoo cards suffer from poor VGA signals - I wonder how much those filters aid in signal clarity. I think most of the issues come from the pass through cable (2D signal).
wow the base on these headphones is better than I thought. I can hear the difference on the jazz when they pluck the base vs slipping the fingers. It's very distinct. lol I suspect I wouldn't hear that on lesser headphones.
I have a Diamond Monster 3D II 8MB and would love to have another one just for the fun of having SLI. It's pretty hard to find an identical one, so I'm hoping that using a Voodoo 2 from another brand with the same clock specs will still work with original drivers, otherwise I'll have to use the fastVoodoo modded ones which I would prefer to avoid.
I have a few Diamond Monster 3D II cards and I'm thinking of selling them. You can let me know what revision you have, and I could try to find the perfect match for you.
@@bitsundbolts I most probably couldn't afford it... I found a seller in my country (Portugal) which has a few Voodoo 2 cards. Since I don't have much use for 3Dfx AGP cards, I'm discussing a trade of 2 of them (VD3 2000 + Banshee) for a Voodoo 2 PCI 12MB with identical clocks to my Monster 3D II, then later down the line I'll try to add the missing 4MB to mine. Unless you want to keep them and add the missing 4MB to mine? 🙂
A place I worked would get boards like the voodoo 2 straight from the board house sometimes, I think it would be caused by the parts not being clean enough but some of it might have been errors in the temperature during the paste soldering. The FQFPs for some reason were the worst for it, hours under the microscope pushing on each pin with an x acto knife.
19:00 Using a more aggressive WS based flux, can often help more when things aren't flowing due to contaminants and oxidation. I learned just how much more aggressive it can be, when it actually caused the solder to wet onto my ferrous tweezers, and pretty much ruined them from touching near anything soldered again, as now they will try to tack themselves to it every time, oops!
About the corrosion, mu guess is that a capacitor from another board leaked on it. That said white vinegar is a good thing to neutralize the base component of capacitor juice. I would rinse it with isopropanol to make sure it's clean after the fact.
It is so soothing to watch you solder with soft jazz piano playing on the background. (you are doing a good job as well at it) Please try to use this theme more often :D Also just a question, which temperature are you using for the solder to flow so easily like this?
Most ferrite beads are just a short piece of wire that's been wrapped in a ferrite material. Their inductance is negligible. Normally used to filter out RF from power lines. For testing I would just use a short jumper wire. They can be replaced with pretty much any ferrite bead, no need for testing for any parameter except for continuity.
11:30 Not that i'm encouraging to leave it like that if u have an exact spare; but in 9 out of 10 measurements of caps looking like that, they still work fine. The parallel plates inside, that are what give the capacitance, are usually not right up to the edge. And even if they get a bit chipped, they just loose a tiny bit of capacitance. Also, as long as there is *some* of the solder contact left on the sides of the capacitor that still crosses all the internal plates, it will work fine; as the contact that wraps around the cap is just extra material. This is just an FIY :)
23:15 should have went "with the grain" and scrub vertically instead of side to side Use a toothbrush and some baking soda and isopropyl, or contact pcb contact cleaner, and then do a reflow, solder paste might work a bit better since that can be applied with a syringe more precise Plus hot air reflow
Yes, I messed up while trying to remove the corrosion. I'll try to treat those areas next time before I reflow the solder. I'm not a big fan of reflowing solder with hot air if I can use a soldering iron. I'm just afraid to damage the chip or knock off other SMDs.
@@bitsundbolts hot air reflow isn't that bad, you can set the temperature like a soldering iron and they make nozzles that shape and direct the airflow And just use kapton tape and aluminum foil to cover the parts you don't want to heat The solder(solder paste) should melt fairly quickly so you don't need to heat the whole chip I mean a bga hot air rework station has to heat the entire chip anyway and they seem to survive that... Depends how fine of a pitch and pin spacing you have to deal with..
Axial rotated passives are better than tombstoned! One of these days you might want to invest into a set of JBC (or a clone) set of rework tweezers, it makes dealing with those SMD passives trivial.
I am usually taking anything from Creative with an ISA slot. Vibra and Soundblaster Live! cards are quite common, so, I usually skip those. Thursday's video will be about a Soundblaster 32 PnP.
@@bitsundbolts look forward to seeing it! Also the hardware sb16 ones are another good choice, the ones with the hardware volume on the back and jumpers.
Oh, ein neues Video ausserhalb der Reihe und dann noch ein Reparaturvideo, sehr geil! Als du die Voodoo Graphics bei Minute 30.28 in den Steckplatz steckst, ist bei dem Speicherchip U14 ein Pin zu sehen der merkwürdig heraussteht. Vielleicht kannst du den noch mal prüfen. Ich freu mich jede Woche auf dein Video, besonders die Reparaturvideos. Ist es auch möglich dir per Paypal etwas zum Dank zukommen zu lassen? VG
Ich versuche ab und zu zwei Videos pro Woche zu posten. Das wird nicht immer klappen, aber wenn es möglich ist, werde ich es machen. Ich schaue mir den Speicherchip nochmal an! Leider hat mir PayPal vor fast einem Jahr das Konto gesperrt. Ich konnte zwar nach 6 Monaten meine paar Euros abheben, aber seitdem ist PayPal für mich Geschichte. Ich werde mich Mal umsehen und andere Möglichkeiten zur Unterstützung ausfindig machen. Danke schonmal für's kommentieren und Video schauen!
@@bitsundbolts Vielleicht würde Streamlabs für dich funktionieren, zumindest für die Unterstützer ist es einfach und unkompliziert. Grüße aus Germany 😉
Das erste mal, dass ich von Dämpfungsperlen höhre, man lernt doch jeden Tag etwas Neues. Wie man die genau ersetzt kann irgendwie keiner sagen, von Kontakte Brücken über verschiedene Werte ausprobieren, bis hin zu niederohmigen Widerständen die Spitzen besser glätten sollen, war alles dabei. In meinem Fachkunde Elektrotechnik von 2012 existiert das Wort noch nicht mal 🤷
'Ferrite beads' sind eine Art Induktor - so ähnlich wie diese Kupfer-Spulen die man auf vielen Mainboards bei den Spannungsreglern oder in Netzteilen findet. Komisch dass du Dämpfungsperlen nicht Fachkunde Buch gefunden hast 😅
As if one ever needed an excuse to fix some Voodoo cards 😀I'm only guessing because I couldn't see it myself, but maybe you mistook the HOM effect as texture corruption? The original Unreal engine has over-zealous visibility culling that sometimes removes surfaces that are still partially on screen.
Yes, correct. This pin was bent inwards and I did work on it to make sure it doesn't touch an adjacent pin. I guess I didn't do a good job there 😅. I'll see if I can improve it.
seeing how bad the corrosion is I'd consider removing the chip and cleaning the pads without the chip in the way. Honestly the solder on all the main chips looked crappy to me anyway.
I was thinking of removing the entire chip, but the damage was only in that one corner. I hope I was able to get rid of most of the corrosion and that there is nothing below the chip.
@@bitsundbolts I just think sometimes it's easier having a 100% flat surface to work with than having a chip in the way when you're dealing with corrosion. But you got it anyway.
Need 60/40 lead tin solder or something similar Card doesn't run at the melting point so using a higher lead ratio would be fine Only really need lead free or lead-tin-antimony for something like a bga or smd gpu or cpu that gets much hotter during use, like in game console where cooling and space is more restricted That solder melts closer to 400-500 farhenheit instead of around 300
Should have went Atari I have an original 1983 launch model 800xl other than the antic upgrade and ram upgrade and dual pokey All chip are original However it's funny the dram I used cam from around the early 90s and failed shortly after Just geta few 512k sram and gal pld with a dip switch get 2 megs in 4 512k banks with full rambo/newell and compyshop bank switching just toggle cs using 2 dip switches to select which 512 page, or use a 2bit latch or shift Register It's more an Atari 800xe running xl romsets and os even 320xe can't compare Still works like new since 1983 Hardware was originally 1977-1979 Never had failing chips Only the mylar keyboard membrane is the most common failure mode of Atari computer That can be replaced with a daughter board and ps/2 port as well or buy reproduction mylar
@@Clancydaenlightened atari uses commodore chips. My C64 still has working chips. But for how long? For the longest time the CPU was most likely not the problem of a failure, but a lot more are starting in that direction.
@@Clancydaenlightened meh bad ram is no big deal. My c64 had 482 bytes free or something like that. Only 1 chip was bad and the errors were random. Less than 1% of the chip was bad. The computer was still usable. I just didn't have the full range of BASIC memory.
LCR meter can measure the ferrite beads. They are just inductors. Edit: You are spending way way too much time on those pins. Making things worse. Hopefully you're also using solder with lead as it's what they used originally. Lead free solder sucks, thanks EU.
Yes, I am using leaded solder. I try to keep the time for reflowing to a minimum, but I also want to see a nice solder joint - with more practice, I will be able to reduce the time I spend on those pins more.
I am starting to repair cards for my viewers. If it is in my ability to restore a card, I'm happy to do so. I am happy if the shipping costs are covered, but if you'd like to support my work, you can add a little bit extra. The best way to reach out is via email: bitsundbolts at gmail dot com.
There is not such thing as "VooDoo 1". There is "VooDoo Graphics". Please stop saying "1" to the first iteration. There is not such thing as "Pentium 1" eiter.
I guess the term Voodoo 1 was introduced much later when 3dfx continued to name their cards with an increasing number suffix. You're right, officially, there was never a Voodoo 1 - just the original Voodoo graphics/3D accelerator.
You're a fucking wizard who resurrect old hardware. You and Necroware, you both saving PC history for future. Just continue forever
I'll try my best to publish more videos! Thanks for mentioning me with Necroware in the same sentence 😅!
Dont forget Adrian black
2 voodoos repaired in a 47 mins long video on a monday?! you're on fire, BuB!
I'm trying to slowly get to publishing two videos per week. I have way too much old hardware that needs to be talked about, and then maybe find a new home!
@@bitsundbolts good to hear about the videos, GL with the searching
NWAR BuB - that's so cute
just a few tipps to ease your work on the chip:
1- clean with a static-safe brush and some isoprop to remove crud
2- go over on the pins + pads with glass fiber pen under the microscope
3- apply some fresh solder
4- don't stay as long as you did on the pads with the wick and the soldering iron as you risk to do some damage the longer you stay, and the stronger you wick as you could experience it in this repair
Yes, I kept going for too long on those pins and pads - especially the area with the corrosion. Thanks for the tips, I will keep that in mind for my next repair.
@@CoruscationsOfIneptitude
Vinegar is also good to remove surface corrosion. The glass fiber pen does a similar job as the vinegar albeit being mechanically...
Solid advice! Glass fiber pens are a great tool indeed - that I keep forgetting about for some reason. 🙃
it's always therapeutic to re-solder those legged ICs :) Well done in reviving two more Voodoo cards :)
SLi forever!!! Happy for you, keep that dream alive :D
A good friend gave me his "old" one in the 90's which went into my Dell PIII system. The only regret was never having 3 screens plugged in at once. I must've used that setup until 2004.
Wow, using that Voodoo 2 setup until 2004 is quite a stretch! But it was some voodoo technology having two cards in a system and double the performance.
For corrosion you can also try Deoxit (or similar) contact cleaner spray. It can sometimes work wonders!
Thanks for mentioning this. I'll see if I can get it or something similar.
This and/or a fiberglas pen? Just careful over the corroded pins, it should remove most of the corrosion.
@@bitsundbolts ich tippe einfach Essigessenz auf die Stellen, in der Regel löst sich Korrosion blubbernd auf
Time to fix that SLI connector too.
True, it is a 90 degree connector though. I have a donor card from which I took the FBI chip, however, I'm planning to revive that card 😂. There is no such thing as a donor 3Dfx card!!!
@@bitsundbolts how many pins is it? They sell these connectors here for like 25 cents US.
Yes, I can get those from AliExpress as well. They're 34-pin floppy connectors. I'll replace it soon.
Great job!! I would suggest that before you use flux and solder to clean the pads, use some vinegar and baking soda with a tooth brush to get most of the oxidation off first then clean with flux and solder. It should make it easier.
Thanks! I'll try this next time. I've heard that vinegar and baking soda cancel each other out though. I'm no chemist, it's just what I've heard.
@@bitsundbolts yeah I put vinegar on wait a minute then sprinkle on baking soda and brush with a toothbrush then rince it off. The baking soda neutralizes acids and bases and is a very mild abrasive.
Games of late 1990s mentioned voodoo here and there in the documentations and back in the day i had no idea what voodoo is and i remember i looked up an old dictionary and it said it is a kind of magic and it made me as a child even more confused. Internet wasn't really available where i lived and my poor English even worsened the problem. 😅 Good old days.
I learned the term Voodoo from those cards - only later I understood it was some sort of black magic.
Voodoo is a African sort of religion or tradition
Known for its ritual practice and belief in mystical and magical forces
And very spiritual
It's 3dfx "black magic"
Seeing the 3d graphics it spat out back then was like black magic...
It makes me so happy seeing you save these wonderful video cards. My Voodoo 1 card from my childhood is carefully stored in antistatic bubble wrap. I hope to get it running again someday. Brings back great memories playing games like Quake, Quake 2, etc.
Those Voodoo cards are like a time capsule. I hope you'll enjoy the card in the future!
Excellent work and a great video. I had no idea SLI was even an option with VooDoo 2 cards! If so I would have owned TWO in the 90s 😂
Thank you! Yes, this was how it started! Two Voodoo 2 cards were high end and could sometimes outperform a Voodoo 3.
Gorgeous! The Voodoo 1 and 2 fixes! Your SLI (Voodoo 2) is working perfectly. Yes that glitch in Unreal is there (as you pass the top of the castle and the stone seems to vanish and come back) Love that scene!
Yes, that glitch is indeed there, I have seen it multiple times on different cards. That black screen however only appeared with this Voodoo 2. My other cards work perfectly in SLI.
Those diamonds are foooreevveeerr !!!!
Absolutely! 💎 ♾️
I have never seen surface caps appear shrivel like that, usually just corrode, but lose their entire housing? Wow. Awesome job as always. Edit: Heart dropped at that pad.
It must be from how those cards are handled at the scrapyard. They slide over other PCBs and then those tiny SMDs break. Thanks for watching!
i wish nvidia would bring out a 30th anniversary edition card of 3DFX. A new voodoo card would sell like hotcakes
Awesome job for some awesome cards. You have quite the collection. I just started mine with a voodoo 3 2000. I doubt I will own any hi dollar cards. But to have one in my Pii 450 system nice.
I hope you'll get a few nice cards for your collection! Having those cards is nice and you preserve a piece of computing history. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Honestly, computing has come a LONG way in the last twenty years, but, this era of computing was so much more fun. And I am thankful for folks like yourself saving hardware every chance given. I myself work trying to save vehicles, mostly 1990s Honda cars. I own a 1992 Honda Civic with 305,000 miles on it and I am acquiring a 1999 Honda Civic with about 200,000 miles on it. They are beat up and bruised, but have so much potential left like these old graphics cards. I help a friend with his 1993 Acura Integra, which currently is in the process of getting a new engine wiring harness as old unnecessary and hacked wiring is pulled out. Also help with his 2007 Acura TL, and recently helping keep 2 Chevrolet cars going as well. Sorry for the tangent, it is often relaxing to find other people saving, any kind of technology. :Edit: Sorry, just in the off chance anyone reads this far, if you did not know, Acura is the luxury brand name of Honda here in the USA and a few other countries just in case there might be any confusion. I do know people here that still did not know this till recently.
Interesting! I did come across the name Acura a few times, but I didn't know it is the luxury brand of Honda. It's nice to preserve old technology because this is what we have used in the past. It doesn't matter if it's a car, a phone, or a PC - they all link to memories from way back for many of us. And that is what makes us preserve them. I wish you all the best with your future projects and hope they turn out well!
the PIII was the last fun era
I work to keep old vehicles on the road it makes more sense to me for the over all environment than buying new. To me, it is far less wasteful to keep old machines going when its possiblem.
What a time to be alive. 800*600*16 bit on a 14 inch crt lol
I wish I had one of those cards back then. They were truly amazing and "game changing"!
lol I never noticed before, but the moon in unreal looks like a jack o'lantern.
BuB over here's going to single-handedly cause a crash in 3Dfx hardware prices with all those repaired cards flooding the market. 😂 You're on a roll, m8!
Really love these videos. Have you heard anything more about the Voodoo diagnostics tool Witchery? I have a some Voodoo cards to diagnose. Really keen for the tool to be released ;-)
I understand. I am in touch with Maksim, the author of the tool. He is working hard on finalizing the tool. Once he publishes it, I will update all of you as soon as possible.
I'm working hard on making Witchery available for public. Please be patient.
It's so strange that they used 2 x 100nF decoupling capacitors in parallel instead of one 220nF capacitor but I guess that they got a pretty good deal for the 100nF ones and decided to use 2 instead of 1 in those places.
I'm not yet at a point where I would judge the design choice of the engineers. However, someone mentioned to me that you should keep the number of components down or reduce the number of different components. I guess it was better to just go with 100nF all the way.
Not strange. A 100nF capacitor ceases to be a capacitor at about 16MHz, if you want decoupling at higher frequencies you use a lower value like 10nF or 1nF in parallell with the 100nF.
@@goranekstrom708 Yes, you are correct however the measured capacitor values showed two 100nF ones instead of 100nF with 100pF in parallel as we were duing back in the day when I was working at Johnson Controlls. That is the strange part of this because if their design required 200nF that means that high frequency decoupling was not an issue and using single 220nF capacitor was probably OK.
@@VladoT oh, I only saw him measure one of them for each location? Also, a single 220nF lowers the self resonance frequency even further so maybe 2x100nF was the "sweet spot".
I have never seen solder have a plasticity like that where it does as you show on the Voodoo 2 card. I learned something new today. That was surprising to see.
Glad I could show something new! I have seen it multiple times on Voodoo cards.
L1, L12 and L13, by the looks of it would be irrelevant and, if you needed to, could be bridged.
From the traces it looks like that's just the Output Filter for the VGA Output...
But good on you on fixing them!
I didn't check where those components connect to, but could be that those components are irrelevant. Those Voodoo cards suffer from poor VGA signals - I wonder how much those filters aid in signal clarity. I think most of the issues come from the pass through cable (2D signal).
Great to see two more Voodoos saved! :D
Yes!!! 👍
Hell Yeah I love broken stuff repair videos
Me too! But those cards were not really challenging. I'm looking forward to a Voodoo 2 pair next month!
wow the base on these headphones is better than I thought. I can hear the difference on the jazz when they pluck the base vs slipping the fingers. It's very distinct. lol I suspect I wouldn't hear that on lesser headphones.
OMG! We do love broken stuff videos! Wonderful!
Hehe, good to know! Then I'll try to get my hands on a lot more broken stuff 😁
I couldnt ask for more - voodoo repairs under a microscope , elevator music and Unreal at the end 😀awesome
Hehe, thanks! 🙏
Maybe next time try to dissolve the corrosion in either vinegar or just water.
I have a Diamond Monster 3D II 8MB and would love to have another one just for the fun of having SLI. It's pretty hard to find an identical one, so I'm hoping that using a Voodoo 2 from another brand with the same clock specs will still work with original drivers, otherwise I'll have to use the fastVoodoo modded ones which I would prefer to avoid.
I have a few Diamond Monster 3D II cards and I'm thinking of selling them. You can let me know what revision you have, and I could try to find the perfect match for you.
@@bitsundbolts I most probably couldn't afford it... I found a seller in my country (Portugal) which has a few Voodoo 2 cards. Since I don't have much use for 3Dfx AGP cards, I'm discussing a trade of 2 of them (VD3 2000 + Banshee) for a Voodoo 2 PCI 12MB with identical clocks to my Monster 3D II, then later down the line I'll try to add the missing 4MB to mine. Unless you want to keep them and add the missing 4MB to mine? 🙂
I love my 3Dfx 4070 Ti :D
Yes! That would be fun if nVidia would make a special edition with 3Dfx branding.
@@bitsundbolts Do they still own the branding?
I would assume so, but I'm not sure.
@@bitsundbolts Knowing how 3DFX was pushed out of the race, by what reasons, personally I find that thought really disturbing...
For all intents and purposes it really is.
i forgot how good unreal looked, amazing considering how old this game is.
Absolutely agree! Seeing this intro was unreal!
Wow, that factory solder really falls apart doesn't it
Yes! It must be age, but after reflowing, the solder is great again.
A place I worked would get boards like the voodoo 2 straight from the board house sometimes, I think it would be caused by the parts not being clean enough but some of it might have been errors in the temperature during the paste soldering. The FQFPs for some reason were the worst for it, hours under the microscope pushing on each pin with an x acto knife.
Nice i have the same diamond monster 3dfx voodoo 1 in my P1 233Mhz
Shine on, you crazy Diamonds.
19:00 Using a more aggressive WS based flux, can often help more when things aren't flowing due to contaminants and oxidation. I learned just how much more aggressive it can be, when it actually caused the solder to wet onto my ferrous tweezers, and pretty much ruined them from touching near anything soldered again, as now they will try to tack themselves to it every time, oops!
Great work !
oh yeah that looks a lot better
About the corrosion, mu guess is that a capacitor from another board leaked on it. That said white vinegar is a good thing to neutralize the base component of capacitor juice. I would rinse it with isopropanol to make sure it's clean after the fact.
That is what I usually do. I didn't expect the corrosion to be that bad on this card. In hindsight, I should have used some white vinegar.
It is so soothing to watch you solder with soft jazz piano playing on the background. (you are doing a good job as well at it) Please try to use this theme more often :D
Also just a question, which temperature are you using for the solder to flow so easily like this?
Thanks! Will keep your suggestion in mind.
My soldering iron is set to 330 degrees and I use quite a bit of flux to make sure the solder flows nicely.
ART!
I would clean the board with alcohol and a toothbrush first.
Most ferrite beads are just a short piece of wire that's been wrapped in a ferrite material. Their inductance is negligible. Normally used to filter out RF from power lines. For testing I would just use a short jumper wire. They can be replaced with pretty much any ferrite bead, no need for testing for any parameter except for continuity.
That's what I usually do - check if there's continuity. Then I replace the component with a similar looking one. So far, it worked great.
11:30 Not that i'm encouraging to leave it like that if u have an exact spare; but in 9 out of 10 measurements of caps looking like that, they still work fine.
The parallel plates inside, that are what give the capacitance, are usually not right up to the edge. And even if they get a bit chipped, they just loose a tiny bit of capacitance. Also, as long as there is *some* of the solder contact left on the sides of the capacitor that still crosses all the internal plates, it will work fine; as the contact that wraps around the cap is just extra material.
This is just an FIY :)
white vinegar and/or contact cleaner might work too, followed by isopropyl
23:15 should have went "with the grain" and scrub vertically instead of side to side
Use a toothbrush and some baking soda and isopropyl, or contact pcb contact cleaner, and then do a reflow, solder paste might work a bit better since that can be applied with a syringe more precise
Plus hot air reflow
Yes, I messed up while trying to remove the corrosion. I'll try to treat those areas next time before I reflow the solder.
I'm not a big fan of reflowing solder with hot air if I can use a soldering iron. I'm just afraid to damage the chip or knock off other SMDs.
@@bitsundbolts hot air reflow isn't that bad, you can set the temperature like a soldering iron and they make nozzles that shape and direct the airflow
And just use kapton tape and aluminum foil to cover the parts you don't want to heat
The solder(solder paste) should melt fairly quickly so you don't need to heat the whole chip
I mean a bga hot air rework station has to heat the entire chip anyway and they seem to survive that...
Depends how fine of a pitch and pin spacing you have to deal with..
Axial rotated passives are better than tombstoned! One of these days you might want to invest into a set of JBC (or a clone) set of rework tweezers, it makes dealing with those SMD passives trivial.
That is something that crossed my mind many times! Those tweezers look great and would make this work a lot easier and faster.
Great Job. Enjoyable as always! Have you considered looking for Creative Awe32 64 Waveblaster 1/2 or MCA cards while at the scrapyard?
I mention these specifically as they hold some value.
I am usually taking anything from Creative with an ISA slot. Vibra and Soundblaster Live! cards are quite common, so, I usually skip those. Thursday's video will be about a Soundblaster 32 PnP.
@@bitsundbolts that will be a watch for me. I skipped saying the sb32 as they are fairly common and just not as sought after.
The one I have does have an AWE chip, has 30 pin SIMM sockets, and seems to be close to an AWE64.
@@bitsundbolts look forward to seeing it! Also the hardware sb16 ones are another good choice, the ones with the hardware volume on the back and jumpers.
L11 is an Inductor, can probably be replaced by a wire :)
Interesting video, like!
The capacitor standing up the wrong way is called "billboarding" It may be that way from the factory.
Yes, I think this happened at the factory. I never heard of the term 'billboarding' - I learned something new!
@@bitsundbolts That's the official IPC name for it.
ah, Master of reflowing! Imagine the FBI/TMU chip dislodges itself during a long, hard game and ending up at the bottom of the case. *ooops*
Oh, ein neues Video ausserhalb der Reihe und dann noch ein Reparaturvideo, sehr geil! Als du die Voodoo Graphics bei Minute 30.28 in den Steckplatz steckst, ist bei dem Speicherchip U14 ein Pin zu sehen der merkwürdig heraussteht. Vielleicht kannst du den noch mal prüfen. Ich freu mich jede Woche auf dein Video, besonders die Reparaturvideos. Ist es auch möglich dir per Paypal etwas zum Dank zukommen zu lassen? VG
Ich versuche ab und zu zwei Videos pro Woche zu posten. Das wird nicht immer klappen, aber wenn es möglich ist, werde ich es machen. Ich schaue mir den Speicherchip nochmal an!
Leider hat mir PayPal vor fast einem Jahr das Konto gesperrt. Ich konnte zwar nach 6 Monaten meine paar Euros abheben, aber seitdem ist PayPal für mich Geschichte. Ich werde mich Mal umsehen und andere Möglichkeiten zur Unterstützung ausfindig machen. Danke schonmal für's kommentieren und Video schauen!
@@bitsundbolts Vielleicht würde Streamlabs für dich funktionieren, zumindest für die Unterstützer ist es einfach und unkompliziert. Grüße aus Germany 😉
Danke! Das schaue ich mir mal an. Viele Grüße zurück aus Dubai!
Das erste mal, dass ich von Dämpfungsperlen höhre, man lernt doch jeden Tag etwas Neues. Wie man die genau ersetzt kann irgendwie keiner sagen, von Kontakte Brücken über verschiedene Werte ausprobieren, bis hin zu niederohmigen Widerständen die Spitzen besser glätten sollen, war alles dabei. In meinem Fachkunde Elektrotechnik von 2012 existiert das Wort noch nicht mal 🤷
'Ferrite beads' sind eine Art Induktor - so ähnlich wie diese Kupfer-Spulen die man auf vielen Mainboards bei den Spannungsreglern oder in Netzteilen findet. Komisch dass du Dämpfungsperlen nicht Fachkunde Buch gefunden hast 😅
Nice jobb ❤
Thanks 🙏
As if one ever needed an excuse to fix some Voodoo cards 😀I'm only guessing because I couldn't see it myself, but maybe you mistook the HOM effect as texture corruption? The original Unreal engine has over-zealous visibility culling that sometimes removes surfaces that are still partially on screen.
Yes, there are a few occasions when textures disappear on screen. I always wondered why that was and why nobody fixed that 😅.
One pin at 30:37 in the third memory chip from the upper left was out of line.
Yes, correct. This pin was bent inwards and I did work on it to make sure it doesn't touch an adjacent pin. I guess I didn't do a good job there 😅. I'll see if I can improve it.
seeing how bad the corrosion is I'd consider removing the chip and cleaning the pads without the chip in the way. Honestly the solder on all the main chips looked crappy to me anyway.
I was thinking of removing the entire chip, but the damage was only in that one corner. I hope I was able to get rid of most of the corrosion and that there is nothing below the chip.
@@bitsundbolts I just think sometimes it's easier having a 100% flat surface to work with than having a chip in the way when you're dealing with corrosion. But you got it anyway.
38:32 looks like cold solder joints
Need 60/40 lead tin solder or something similar
Card doesn't run at the melting point so using a higher lead ratio would be fine
Only really need lead free or lead-tin-antimony for something like a bga or smd gpu or cpu that gets much hotter during use, like in game console where cooling and space is more restricted
That solder melts closer to 400-500 farhenheit instead of around 300
i also have a pair of diamond V2s where the SLI connectors dont align.... it bothers me so much 🤬
It's weird and doesn't feel well when the cable is bent over that short distance 😞
If you use leaded solder that solder will last much longer than 30 years, since what you took off is unleaded solder.
Did they use unleaded solder in 1997/98 already? My solder definitely contains lead. But that could explain why this solder weakened so much.
I don't think RoHS really started till the early 2000's
@@bitsundbolts actually, they first started using unleaded solder in 2006, so that might not be the cause.
wow a monday video.
Trying to publish two videos per week 😅 (at least sometimes).
@@bitsundbolts YAY!
I have 2 Voodoo II cards, is there anybody who needs them ?
If you got a good plan, we can donate them !
Both work, Diamond and Trust, same model.
I don't know we're finding a lot of 40 year old commodore chips aren't surviving. They survived 30 years, but 40 is starting to hit them harder.
Should have went Atari I have an original 1983 launch model 800xl other than the antic upgrade and ram upgrade and dual pokey
All chip are original
However it's funny the dram I used cam from around the early 90s and failed shortly after
Just geta few 512k sram and gal pld with a dip switch get 2 megs in 4 512k banks with full rambo/newell and compyshop bank switching just toggle cs using 2 dip switches to select which 512 page, or use a 2bit latch or shift Register
It's more an Atari 800xe running xl romsets and os even 320xe can't compare
Still works like new since 1983
Hardware was originally 1977-1979
Never had failing chips
Only the mylar keyboard membrane is the most common failure mode of Atari computer
That can be replaced with a daughter board and ps/2 port as well or buy reproduction mylar
I wouldn't plug it in until the ram is repaired it won't work atm
Really expensive lawsuit for sled....😂
500 for a commodore 64 now shows it's cheap cost cutting design issues
Paid several grand for Atari 800xl in 1983 they'll still work now
@@Clancydaenlightened atari uses commodore chips. My C64 still has working chips. But for how long? For the longest time the CPU was most likely not the problem of a failure, but a lot more are starting in that direction.
@@Clancydaenlightened meh bad ram is no big deal. My c64 had 482 bytes free or something like that. Only 1 chip was bad and the errors were random. Less than 1% of the chip was bad. The computer was still usable. I just didn't have the full range of BASIC memory.
i cant find diamond 3dfx cards to buy with "normal" price and someone just throw into trash ouuuu 😞💔
LCR meter can measure the ferrite beads. They are just inductors. Edit: You are spending way way too much time on those pins. Making things worse. Hopefully you're also using solder with lead as it's what they used originally. Lead free solder sucks, thanks EU.
Yes, I am using leaded solder. I try to keep the time for reflowing to a minimum, but I also want to see a nice solder joint - with more practice, I will be able to reduce the time I spend on those pins more.
I wonder if you fix 3dfxs for money?
I am starting to repair cards for my viewers. If it is in my ability to restore a card, I'm happy to do so. I am happy if the shipping costs are covered, but if you'd like to support my work, you can add a little bit extra. The best way to reach out is via email: bitsundbolts at gmail dot com.
There is not such thing as "VooDoo 1". There is "VooDoo Graphics".
Please stop saying "1" to the first iteration.
There is not such thing as "Pentium 1" eiter.
I guess the term Voodoo 1 was introduced much later when 3dfx continued to name their cards with an increasing number suffix. You're right, officially, there was never a Voodoo 1 - just the original Voodoo graphics/3D accelerator.
It's kind of like how we refer to World War 1 now.
899
4745
You are beautiful.
Hehe, thanks!
Again relaxing Video to have rolling while fixing 🫶🏻🫶🏻
For the corrosion, maybe the old fashion vinigar and backing soda method? 😁
Grassland out 🫡
Thank you! I only noticed how bad the corrosion was while I already put flux around. You're right, I should have treated the area first.