The plastic shield you take off around 9:30 can safely be left in place. It's fiddly and only needs to be removed if you want to change the side the hose goes into the reg.
Step 17 of the Apeks service manual explicitly states that this shield (they call it "spindle collar") does not need to be removed. I hear mixed messages about ultrasonic cleaning of plastic parts, but I never had any bad effects from it. It even seems that the ultrasound can massage a bit of life back into a tired o-ring :)
I did not see you remove the adjustable valve seat though. Did I miss it or do you leave that in because you don't need to clean it? For me (95% salt water diving, high calcium content in tap water used for rinsing), that piece is usually full of salt, scale and even some green corrosion, and if I don't clean and lube the threads regularly, it will get stuck. Thank you for the video btw! I usually service my regs once per year during the christmas holidays and watching a few videos before helps refresh my memory :)
Help Needed with Adjusting My Apeks ATX200 Second Stage Hi Tomasz! I hope you’re doing well. I recently watched your video where you dismantled the Apeks ATX200 second stage, and it was very informative. I’m experiencing an issue with my ATX200 second stage and was wondering if you could give me some advice. The second stage stays slightly open and leaks air continuously when the scuba tank is pressurized. I believe it needs a small adjustment (“fine-tuning”), but I don’t know how to do it. On another regulator I have, there’s an external screw to adjust the lever or diaphragm, but I couldn’t find a similar feature on the ATX200. Could you guide me on how to perform this adjustment? If it requires opening the regulator, are there specific steps I should follow? Thanks a lot for your time and for sharing your expertise through your videos - they’ve been incredibly helpful! Best regards,
@@lebeauleon7282 it couldn't be multiple factors you have to check what pressure is coming out of first stage to second stage than if you watch the video carefully @17min the adjustment is made with the tool that has a gauge mounted on it it's a special tool that goes on the hose between first stage and connects to second stage. Technically there is one more gauge required to adjust it properly magnehelic gauge. I would recommend take it down to your trusted scuba shop or authorized Apeks dealer, remember it's your life support underwater.
Hello, i have a question about this plastic regulator knob…you reasemble it between 13:20 and 13:30. you screw it all the way down into the Metal part?? Or just a few turns?? Thx
If I understand Your question correctly you are talking about the part on the right adjuster knob, it's a bit tricky as all the parts inside have to ligne up then You screw it in Until the diagram spring can move up and down. That way you can insert all together into the housing You will make final adjustments later but once everything is back together you tighten everything all the way. I hope i understood your question correctly. Thank you for subscribing
Hi nice video and informative. I will still send to my local dealer as i dont have proper tools to do it myself but can you share a video on how to swap the xtx50 hoses, venturi, etc from one side to the other?
Nice video. Good quality and a deep explanation of what is happened. I am preparing for my first service technician training and could I ask a few questions :)? Why do not you clean plastic in an ultrasonic cleaner? Could you tell more about tools to remove orings (I know it is not the same as having dentists, but it is common to use tools or only for scuba gears)? I have read that it is recommended to check springs with a caliper, is it obligatory and has added value or it is just a recommendation that in real life never catch squeezed springs?
Thank you for watching but first of all I am not authorized service provider as mentioned in the video, it is something I have learned on my own following the service manual. The orings tools isba dental pick set, You don't have to clean plastic pieces in ultrasonic cleaner but it will not harm it so why not. All other tools I got from www.divegearexpress.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwg47KBRDk7LSu4LTD8eEBEiQAO4O6r6QgQfRSvGs7WtdEKgUhphNtsQcjeUs2kesRoGcV9AUaAjm58P8HAQ
The intermediate pressure is adjusted by 1st stage 135-141 psi apeks manual says 135 psi watch my 1st stage adjustment and service. 2nd stage I adjust exactly as in my video you just watch by sound as soon as it stops hissing air. there is more expensive magnehelic gauge but I adjust it my way and it works well in extreme cold and warm water.
@MrZdziebelek I don't do as much diving lately but here is the video that may explain more on intermediate pressure setting ruclips.net/video/JjNSTe5ZZ2M/видео.html
Hi, thanks for a great video. Just did my first disassembly according to it (and the apeks manual). Everything's pretty clear, but I have one question anyway. What ultrasound cleaner do you use? What wattage does it have? There are many cheap onea on the market with ~50/60 W and I'm not sure whether it will be enough to clean the internal parts. Thanks for sharing your experience and all the best!
I use something like this VEVOR Ultrasonic Cleaner 1.3L Total 110W Commercial Ultrasonic Cleaner for Cleaning Eyeglasses Rings Large Capacity Heated Ultrasonic Cleaner(1.3L, 110W) a.co/d/bZO7Eku
As a factory trained tech I do not recommend servicing your own regs unless trained. That said, these videos help remove some of the fear people have of the internals of the stages and give them a better idea of how they work and what can go wrong. If I may, if you are doing an overhaul you might as replace things with a service kit, for many reasons. Also, avoid prelubing parts and putting them down, best practice to lube just before placing the part. Also, the setting of lever height and adjustment with on a magnehelic is absent.
Thank you for a good point on prelubing that makes a lot of sense I was also recommend to put all the orinhs in a plastic bag with a bit of lube that way they don't end up back on paper towel. Will definitely keep this in mind.
Most of Apeks Regs are very similar so most likely yes as that 2nd stage looks same just different housing (enclosure). if you just want to clean change O-rings it is streight forward if You need adjustments the inline gage is recommended. I use to adjust by manually no gauge but with gauge you can set pressuse more accurate. Another useful tool is magnahelic gauge but i don't have it yet.
Apeks XTX 50 sidemount 2nd stage regulator tear down and cleaning DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH MANY SMALL COMPONENTS. Leave it to Your Local scuba shop professionals. Remember this is Your life support underwater.
@@AdventureTravelandScuba perhaps I'm missing that point on the video. Could you point out the time on the video in which you remove the seat and then put it back (I'm referring to part 15 in the manual - AP2033) ?
@@goncaloportugal1 You're right the "seat with O-Ring" is not removed in the video (or I miss it?) This is important to clean it, as for time to time the par is dirty...
However, it must be clearly stated that this video does not represent a correct service. Various things are done incorrectly, which can lead to safety risks. Please do not imitate this. Additionally, I would be interested to know how the correct intermediate pressure should be set without professional testing equipment?
I've been doing it this way for years and it works and I trust more myself then the dive shop that screwed me before by replacing shit lots of parts on brand new regs charged for it and regulators work like crap had to take somewhere else to get them readjusted
The plastic shield you take off around 9:30 can safely be left in place. It's fiddly and only needs to be removed if you want to change the side the hose goes into the reg.
I did not know if it's good to put that plastic to ultrasonic cleaning
Step 17 of the Apeks service manual explicitly states that this shield (they call it "spindle collar") does not need to be removed. I hear mixed messages about ultrasonic cleaning of plastic parts, but I never had any bad effects from it. It even seems that the ultrasound can massage a bit of life back into a tired o-ring :)
Btw, the same goes for the lever. Step 18 says no need to remove. I avoid the risk of bending it and just leave it dangling in place.
I did not see you remove the adjustable valve seat though. Did I miss it or do you leave that in because you don't need to clean it? For me (95% salt water diving, high calcium content in tap water used for rinsing), that piece is usually full of salt, scale and even some green corrosion, and if I don't clean and lube the threads regularly, it will get stuck.
Thank you for the video btw! I usually service my regs once per year during the christmas holidays and watching a few videos before helps refresh my memory :)
@hrhansendotdk good point makes sense
Help Needed with Adjusting My Apeks ATX200 Second Stage
Hi Tomasz!
I hope you’re doing well. I recently watched your video where you dismantled the Apeks ATX200 second stage, and it was very informative. I’m experiencing an issue with my ATX200 second stage and was wondering if you could give me some advice.
The second stage stays slightly open and leaks air continuously when the scuba tank is pressurized. I believe it needs a small adjustment (“fine-tuning”), but I don’t know how to do it. On another regulator I have, there’s an external screw to adjust the lever or diaphragm, but I couldn’t find a similar feature on the ATX200.
Could you guide me on how to perform this adjustment? If it requires opening the regulator, are there specific steps I should follow?
Thanks a lot for your time and for sharing your expertise through your videos - they’ve been incredibly helpful!
Best regards,
@@lebeauleon7282 it couldn't be multiple factors you have to check what pressure is coming out of first stage to second stage than if you watch the video carefully @17min the adjustment is made with the tool that has a gauge mounted on it it's a special tool that goes on the hose between first stage and connects to second stage. Technically there is one more gauge required to adjust it properly magnehelic gauge. I would recommend take it down to your trusted scuba shop or authorized Apeks dealer, remember it's your life support underwater.
Hello, i have a question about this plastic regulator knob…you reasemble it between 13:20 and 13:30. you screw it all the way down into the Metal part?? Or just a few turns??
Thx
If I understand Your question correctly you are talking about the part on the right adjuster knob, it's a bit tricky as all the parts inside have to ligne up then You screw it in Until the diagram spring can move up and down. That way you can insert all together into the housing You will make final adjustments later but once everything is back together you tighten everything all the way. I hope i understood your question correctly. Thank you for subscribing
Hi nice video and informative. I will still send to my local dealer as i dont have proper tools to do it myself but can you share a video on how to swap the xtx50 hoses, venturi, etc from one side to the other?
Nice video. Good quality and a deep explanation of what is happened. I am preparing for my first service technician training and could I ask a few questions :)? Why do not you clean plastic in an ultrasonic cleaner? Could you tell more about tools to remove orings (I know it is not the same as having dentists, but it is common to use tools or only for scuba gears)? I have read that it is recommended to check springs with a caliper, is it obligatory and has added value or it is just a recommendation that in real life never catch squeezed springs?
Thank you for watching but first of all I am not authorized service provider as mentioned in the video, it is something I have learned on my own following the service manual. The orings tools isba dental pick set, You don't have to clean plastic pieces in ultrasonic cleaner but it will not harm it so why not. All other tools I got from www.divegearexpress.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwg47KBRDk7LSu4LTD8eEBEiQAO4O6r6QgQfRSvGs7WtdEKgUhphNtsQcjeUs2kesRoGcV9AUaAjm58P8HAQ
regarding spring i change it regardless every 3-4 years
Hi, great video. Could you tell me how the inline adjustment tool fits on the second stage? It looks like a push fit?
Push in first to align the adjuster screw then it also threads in to lock it in place
Thank you 👍
Hi Tomasz, super help, many thx for that. One question regarding the gauge on the midium preasure adjustment tool. What preasure should be on it?
The intermediate pressure is adjusted by 1st stage 135-141 psi apeks manual says 135 psi watch my 1st stage adjustment and service. 2nd stage I adjust exactly as in my video you just watch by sound as soon as it stops hissing air. there is more expensive magnehelic gauge but I adjust it my way and it works well in extreme cold and warm water.
@@AdventureTravelandScuba
understood, many thanks, I am looking for your next videos!
@MrZdziebelek I don't do as much diving lately but here is the video that may explain more on intermediate pressure setting ruclips.net/video/JjNSTe5ZZ2M/видео.html
Hi, thanks for a great video. Just did my first disassembly according to it (and the apeks manual). Everything's pretty clear, but I have one question anyway. What ultrasound cleaner do you use? What wattage does it have? There are many cheap onea on the market with ~50/60 W and I'm not sure whether it will be enough to clean the internal parts. Thanks for sharing your experience and all the best!
I use something like this
VEVOR Ultrasonic Cleaner 1.3L Total 110W Commercial Ultrasonic Cleaner for Cleaning Eyeglasses Rings Large Capacity Heated Ultrasonic Cleaner(1.3L, 110W) a.co/d/bZO7Eku
@@AdventureTravelandScuba excellent, thanks for the tip!
Nice job mate thank you for sharing
Awesome, thank you
muy bueno y bien explicado 👌
As a factory trained tech I do not recommend servicing your own regs unless trained. That said, these videos help remove some of the fear people have of the internals of the stages and give them a better idea of how they work and what can go wrong. If I may, if you are doing an overhaul you might as replace things with a service kit, for many reasons. Also, avoid prelubing parts and putting them down, best practice to lube just before placing the part. Also, the setting of lever height and adjustment with on a magnehelic is absent.
Thank you for a good point on prelubing that makes a lot of sense I was also recommend to put all the orinhs in a plastic bag with a bit of lube that way they don't end up back on paper towel. Will definitely keep this in mind.
Hi. Very informative video. Would this be almost the same with a Apeks MTX-RC second stage reg? Thank you.
Most of Apeks Regs are very similar so most likely yes as that 2nd stage looks same just different housing (enclosure). if you just want to clean change O-rings it is streight forward if You need adjustments the inline gage is recommended. I use to adjust by manually no gauge but with gauge you can set pressuse more accurate. Another useful tool is magnahelic gauge but i don't have it yet.
The exploded parts diagram shows the MTX-RC to be the same internally as the XTX's.
Most of the Apeks Regs will be very similar
Thank you
Hola qué líquido usa para limpieza
You can use pretty much anything I use a bit of Veniger and Dawn dish soap
Muchísima gracias
Apeks XTX 50 sidemount 2nd stage regulator tear down and cleaning DO NOT ATTEMPT IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH MANY SMALL COMPONENTS. Leave it to Your Local scuba shop professionals. Remember this is Your life support underwater.
Thanks for the nice video. Is it my impression or you missed to remove the Seat at the very last step of disassembly? (which by the way has an o-ring)
@@goncaloportugal1 I think everything was covered double checked the video just now every piece was taken apart
@@AdventureTravelandScuba perhaps I'm missing that point on the video. Could you point out the time on the video in which you remove the seat and then put it back (I'm referring to part 15 in the manual - AP2033) ?
@@goncaloportugal1 You're right the "seat with O-Ring" is not removed in the video (or I miss it?) This is important to clean it, as for time to time the par is dirty...
However, it must be clearly stated that this video does not represent a correct service. Various things are done incorrectly, which can lead to safety risks. Please do not imitate this.
Additionally, I would be interested to know how the correct intermediate pressure should be set without professional testing equipment?
I've been doing it this way for years and it works and I trust more myself then the dive shop that screwed me before by replacing shit lots of parts on brand new regs charged for it and regulators work like crap had to take somewhere else to get them readjusted