350 383 400 SBC Chevy - Which one should you build?? What will work best in this 1968 Chevelle??
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2024
- This video is about which cubic inch best suits your needs. #chevrolet #sbc #350 #horsepower #350sbc
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The hole is to let air out of the oil Gallery and to oil the distributor drive gear.
So basically it is a bleed hole serving two purposes.
I could go into this and other engines that do the same thing.
The .0625 or 1/16 is a little big.
I do them around .037 to .043.
Sometimes smaller, depends on the application.
Oldsmobile did it to stop the air being trapped in the oil gallery to stop the lifter clatter.
Hopes this helps.
The 383 is my choice for torque and horsepower mix.
If you need the cubic inch the 400/406, 421 or larger.
Problem is getting a good 400 core.
The 350 is the standard and a very versatile platform.
Great topic.
Have a gread day Alan.
Take care, Ed.
Yes, its to bleed air, and oil timing chain, and i DONT think customers oil pressure issues were that hole, as i've seen them a few times now......maybe Alan can do some more digging, or the oil pump just didnt do its job......i have a 462 Poncho, hyd flat tappet, was a SE motor all its life, has the hole, i have NO oil pressure issues.....i make 580 hp.....run 11 flat qtr times as 120......i want that 10:99, but oil pressure is NOT an issue...
Thanks Ed. Always good to get advice from a professional. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thanks AG, Likewise.
You certainly have a wealth of knowledge Sir.
@@user-bc9sz1dj1g I use around .041 blead off that foam in the front .061 plus in the rear???
Another great video Al and company!! Looking forward to see this build progress as well 👏🏻
Thanks Steve. AG
I sure needed this video 9 years ago
It's never too late, thanks Movistar. AG
I would certainly lean towards the 170 cc runner heads, (on a 350) that is a heavy car and I would much rather sacrifice a few horsepower above 5000 RPM for a better torque curve from 2500 to 4500. Torque is king in a true street engine, he'll spend 90% of the time below 3500 RPM. Although I would lean towards a 383 in this application, the 350 will be a nice improvement over the 327.
Great comments, thanks Yarrda. AG
Im excited to follow the build. In the process of redoing a 400 and this should be helpful for me..
Thanks Eric. AG
Really enjoying your videos! Thanks
Nice compliment, thanks Scott. AG
I really dig the sleeper stock appearance builds. Nice Rig !!!!
thanks Brandon. AG
Great info. When i was younger there were so many guys like you who knew so much about engines. Whenever i was working on a small or big block i could just pick up the phone and call a friend. Sadly nowadays it seems that a lot of these guys aren't around.
Thanks for the comment Bobby. i will try to stick around and remain relevant as long as i can. AG
Alan, I can’t wait to see the Pontiac Builds, Thanks for the Great Content 👍
Thanks David, I should have the block back this week. AG
Looking forward to your build AG👍
Thanks Steve. AG
Going to be great to follow this build, hopefully you hit your goal with another satisfied customer!
Thanks Ronald. AG
Hello Allen, love your videos. The hole drilled in the back freeze plug is for additional oiling to the distributor gear, it's a common hp upgrade to Pontiac engines.
Thanks User. More to come on this subject. AG
For a ‘real street car’ where you want pretty good manners you can’t beat more cubic inches for torque gains. So if you have a good 350 block and if you have your buy a new rotating assembly then in my opinion you are mad if you don’t go a 383…. I’d use the 170cc heads, the Air Gap inlet manifold sounds good and a well tuned 650 Double Pumper carb (I just don’t like vac sec carbs) I don’t mind the cam you have selected and the 108 LSA will help build torque earlier and sound tough to. I’ll be watching this engine build with interest. 👍🇦🇺
Thanks for your comment BigAL. AG
Had a 68 Chevelle deluxe 300, original 6 cylinder with powerglide. Had 400 sbc with turbo 400 transmission, engine had a qjet with headers. It was a 1 wheel peel and fun for a 17 yr old to drive. If car is matching numbers I would pull 327 and store it on a stand, drop in a nice 400.
thanks for sharing Scott. AG
Congrats sir!!!!!
Thanks Grampito. AG
I’d vote for a 383 but I’m about the big torque & hopefully some day build my 89 TPI Corvette motor to a 383. Although TPI has its own unique issues, I still love it. As always, great content.
Thanks HotRod. AG
Cam that bad boy tpi😂..I went big and that tpi now winds to 6500RPM with ease 😂 I love it and screwed up and purchased a new GM vortec short block to step up to a roller camshaft but it's got dished Pistons so I'm gonna swap em this spring for flat tops and it should run even better...I got the Comp Cams 8-306-8 it's a 230/244 .510/.540 lift
Sounds mean at idle very choppy. A free tip is to adjust your tps to .067 from the recommended .054 volts and it will improve your throttle response significantly
@@mariocooldude9092 Actually put a small cam in it, 220/220 duration with .456/.456 lift & 112 lsa. My throttle response isn’t where I want it to be, a slight delay when I blip the throttle. Been chasing that one for a long while now, may have to try the volt change & see what it does. 👍🏻
I haven’t but always wanted to build a 377 sbc
Best for HP/cu. in. AG
I like the cam choice with the 108LSA, It'll will suit the 10+CR better than a wide LSA. The lift can always be increased with higher ratio rockers, ie 1.6 on the intake. The build is very similar to my 355 but I use flat tops that are .025 in the hole with a .015 steel shim for a .040 quench. I can use steel shim because my heads are old school bowtie cast steel heads, steel shims won't work on aluminum heads. The other option I would consider is solid roller lifters if he doesn't mind setting the lash. They're lighter and you don't have to worry about pump up. I use them all the time on hydraulic cams with a tight lash setting around .080-.010 the engine will spin quicker and higher, love them. My cam of choice was a hydraulic roller big mutha thumpr with 1.7 rockers on the intake and 1.6 on the exhaust. The lift is too small on the thumpr cams, that's their Achilles heel. For what it's worth, all the best.
Thanks Joe. AG
AG, I don't believe people realize that when you put a higher ratio rocker to get more lift, it also changes the duration on the cam and the timing of the valve opening sooner to get the lift. Not many people build 350's anymore, it's better to build a 383 since the rotating assy. cost is the same to get better benefits with hp and tq.
They increase lift but not duration. The duration is built into the cam profile and it is what it is.
The duration is affected but only minimal. The opening and closing are the same.
@@robertbriggs4176 The rocker arm changes what the valve sees but the cam does not change. The duration changes ( only a little) because it opens slightly faster and closes faster because of the ratio change. IE speed of the valve. Thus the duration change, May require a valve spring change ?
@@robertbriggs4176 cam company says different... It changes the time of opening and closing of the valves, therefore it changes the duration...
Measured duration remains the same. Higher ratio acts like longer duration by a small amount because the point where meaningful flow is reached is sooner. The valve has to reach a higher lift in the same amount of time so it's traveling faster.
I like the head choice for an original car. I built a 406 with trick flow double humps. The 200’s weren’t available so I had the 175’s cnc ported to 205. My engine looks like a factory DZ motor in my 69 Camaro.
That's the idea, thanks Mattew. AG
I'm a 355 type guy, they run really good, are reliable and can still get ok fuel milage. I never been able to get any type of fuel economy out of a 383.
If the OG 327 block is a large journal, your short block build sound pretty good to me. If it's a small journal block, not much can be done with it. If the block is all ready .040 over and 2 bolt main .060 over is pushing a little in my book.
With to days pump gas I like to keep the LSA 112, around .500 lift, it's just seems to be more reliable. Maybe 1.6:1 full roller rockers. The Brodix IK 200 heads make good pump gas power, the build quality is second to none at that price point. Also Brodix IK 200 heads are a good fit for other components. Most air gap intakes bolt right on with no fuss and the exhaust ports are low enough that long tube headers are not rubbing the collectors on the floor of the car. A fluid damper is nice if it's the budget.
A quality installed Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 port fuel injection is worth the cash for reliability. It brings a SBC into 2024!!!
All good points, thanks G. AG
Good combo. I would use the 175 heads, flat top piston, Mahle. The flat top has better flame travel than a dome piston. The Mahle piston with the metric ring pack makes more power than the thicker ring pistons.
When you deck the block, hopefully the machine shop can do it without removing the stamped numbers on the ID pad. I would use 1.6 scorpion rockers.
Thanks for your input Pockets. AG
Hey Alan I'm very interested in following this build and seeing the end result. I am going to build a new engine later this year for a 1973 Z28 that I own. Currently it has a mild cammed 350 with the original low compression 76cc 882 heads on it so it won't take much to improve on that. The car used to belong to former NHRA Drag Racer Buck Kinney out of Maple Ridge BC at one time. Would like to be closer to 450 HP but we'll see how this one turns out. I love the idea of using the aluminum fake double hump heads. Keep em coming.
Cheers
Thanks for watching Captain. I enjoyed your comments. AG
I have a 1974 Z28 (exact same engine as yours) and I changed the 882 heads for a set of World Products Sportsman heads with 64cc combustion chambers. I also put in a Lunati Bootlegger cam. Mine is an automatic with a 3500 stall converter. It is a screamer.
@@ohiomike204 Which one of their bootlegger cams did you choose? They look like a good option. I want mine to rip like that to at least 6000 RPM. What's the vacuum at idle like? Enough for power brakes? Thanks!
Steel shims on a aluminum head work just fine AG. For the valve springs...
Bring the piston out O.OO5" not down O.OO5". A O.O42" - O.O45" compressed cometic would be on the money. Excellent. I would definitely go with a hydraulic roller and 383. Although it would be mild. An XR276HR on a 108* LSA. Promaxx Project X195/X215 heads. And for the intake a nice little lump of torque before the 5252 rpm. An AFR 4812 dual plane. It makes better average and thick torque than the RPM and EPS. Although more hp than the EPS not quite beating the very peak of the RPM, however more under the curve. Because well you know peak numbers arent everything. Well and i think Steve would be much much happier with the 383 honestly. You could use a smaller XR270HR and still make the goal probably very easily. There is a ton of inherent efficiency potential in a 383 because of the bore stroke ratio is exactly in the meat and potatoes of it all. If i was going for MPG even, still i would use a 383 in a 1968 chevelle. We all know 400 hp is doable. However for the drivability and vacuum and power accessories, the 383 cannot be beat all around and won't need to try nearly as hard as the 350 or 327. If power brakes and rpm werent an issue then yes 400lhp here we go. A 383 with stock heads can almost pump 400hp accidentally with other components. The head selection is important, these X series heads won't require too much work and shall allow use of a smaller cam. PRW 1.65 roller rockers on the XR270HR shall enhance off the seat lift. There should be all the vacuum in the world on this size cam in a 383. The VRS 850cfm edelbrock carb looks really perfect for this. However someone got 4 mpg with the dominator carb over a 4150. It was 11 mpg versus 14 mpg with the dominator 2 circuit. That was a chevelle by the way. with a small block 383 and nothing for gears comparing to that tremec 5 speed for fancy. 383 anyway you cut it is going to outperform and out efficiency all else in this car. The thing is a 350 could be gotten away with, however and the 5 speed helps. It won't make the vacuum. Barely may make the number on the dyno and in practice on the street well you know how that goes. This is to help anybody and everyone whom took the time to read this respectively. Great show, i love it, and is so inspiring. Happy motoring.
Thanks for the detailed comment. AG
I got a 383 with 500hp 480tq been great on the street
I'm sure it is DJ. AG
I'm a street guy in central Fl so I just run a 350. There's so much traffic that I think more than 500 hp is just a waste. I'm around 400 hp N/A with a solid Howards, iron eagles, and around 500 hp with a 72vdc electrically driven Paxton I built up that adds 5 psi boost on demand; but I almost never use it. Last rebuid I did to ditch a .060 over block I grooved for O-rings (and never got to seal worth a damn with copper) for another block I could just use SCE Titans on. It was then I noticed the discoloration of my wrist pins from the forced induction heat so I added wrist pin squirters in addition to an extra nozzle in the front threaded galley plug for the chain and sprocket thrust bearing. With a melling HV shark-tooth and the higher spring I'm just about @10 to 15 psi @ an 800 rpm idle warmed up. If Smokey's right about 7 psi per 1000 rpm that's plenty and it saves on the distributor gear a lot, especially if you add a rev-spring kit like I did. The composite distributor gear I bought last has proved to be worth the extra bread so far too. I got enough worn out bronze ones on the bench to make a F-ing lamp or something out of. LOL
Agree. Friend built a 468 for his Nova. Built it twice. First time was about a 460HP streetable cam mid compression. 2nd time he put 11.1 domes and big lift race cam. He said he enjoyed 450+ HP much better and more fun. High power engine was always temperamental. Btw..BTW... I'm building a 454(461) using a Howard's big mama Rattler 👍
@@antilaw9911 I got the 110183-10 which is 237/243 @ .050 .592 with my 1.6s with bushing street roller lifters (paranoid about needles) LOL and I still get 12" of vac @ 800 rpm. Rev springs jacked my coolant a good 20 degrees though so I cut a hole though the center of the 87' Camaro bumper for the oil cooler on the other side after upgrading to Spaals wasn't enough. I love my solid so much better I'll never go back to hydraulics. I haven't a doubt in my mind that you'll dig yours too.
Wow , with all the local engine guys in the state of Indiana. I say the guy likes to travel because there are a lot of great machinists in the state.
I would build a nice 350 with good vortex heads and nice hydraulic roller .
good suggestion Larry. We will see what Steve decides. AG
We would drill a hole in the galley plug 15 thousand to squirt the distributor gear if it was bronze for roller cam
Thanks for the info Patrick. a .060" hole will leak out 16 times more oil than .015" AG
IMO if you need a a complete rotating assembly definitely go 383, parts nominally more but gains are enormous. Allan you could go 396 with a 3.85 crank but those are better for clearance on the LT1 newer roller blocks.
Thanks Cliff. AG
I'd like to see you build a 383 for purely selfish reasons. I'm building one myself and I would be bound to learn something. 😎
Thanks 100, we will get to it eventually. AG
If you are going to run rocker cover breathers you will have to ensure there's vents between the pushrods, I think Trickflow forgot them and made pre 68 style heads, also the rocker cover rails are a little higher. Drilled front plug on SBCs is to vent the gallery for quick oil fill, timing chain gets plenty of oil off cam and front main bearings.
Thanks for the info Tom. AG
a 350 because of the 3:73 rear axle
Agreed. AG
They use to say you shouldn't have piston deck height no closer than .010" in the hole to allow for piston rock AG.
Great video. I vote for a 383, use that howards hydraulic roller, 175cc double hump heads, bump compression to 10.5. It being a chevelle i would want the the extra torque myself.
175cc heads are on the small side for a 383. Probably run out of air by 5,000 RPM or maybe sooner? Would make lots of torque though, would be great for a pickup.🤔
Yea I picked the 175 over the 200s cause of the cam. Rpm range 2000-5400.
@@randyslatton3945
So expect that range to be lower with those heads. Those are made for engines with a 100 cubic inches less to bolt on a 283 to 327s so they don't kill any low end those might of had.
My 383 has 200cc heads with a cam that is in the idle to 5,000 RPM range that runs like a beast. It even keeps pulling to 6,000 RPM. 25cc might not seem like a big number but when comes to air volume it makes a big difference.
A 283 to 327 with 200cc heads wouldn't have very good low end, would need to compensate with more gear to get it moving. But if it was setup to rev would make better high end HP than the smaller heads.
Your right 25cc is not much of a difference but I would still choose the 175 over the 200 in this setup. Just personal preference from what I've experienced over the years.
@@randyslatton3945
But it is a big difference, the 175cc are for under 350 cubes like a 283 a hundred cubes less than a 383.
I almost built a 350 for my 62 C10, but a little math and it made sense to go with a 383 instead. They are making them just about the same cost.
Good point Jimmy, that's why they are so popular. GM should have made one. AG
If I had a 350 block then I would build a 383. If I had a 400 block then I would build a 427 or 434. If small budget and didnt have a block then I would go with the 400.
If you can find a 400, getting very rare and cores are getting very expensive.😯
Thanks for your comment Cuzz. AG
My opinion, if the crank is good, go back to 350. If you need to replace the rotating assembly, a 383 is virtually the same price and will make more torque.
Thanks Steve. AG
I want to see a comparison between a 400 block with a 350 crank and a 350 with a 400 crank, same heads, compression, cam, exhaust and carburetor or fuel injection, headers, etc. They both come out to about 377. I have seen 1 channel do it but the parts between the 2 were completely different, like comparing a BBC to a 250 straight 6. If the 400 is taken out .030 the cid will be 377.487, the 350 at stock bore would be at 376.992, it would make for an interesting test between bore and stroke difference
Thanks for the suggestion Kalyb. AG
I wouldn't dare externally balance an engine. I would build a 383 stroker internally balanced. On mine I went with a SCAT rotating assembly f/t pistons AFR 195 Eliminators. The Cam is an ISKY hydraulic roller. The specs are .550 lift on intake and exhaust 294° adv duration on both I and E . Dur @ .050 is 246 on both I and E on a 108° LSA. Installed on a 102° ICL. The block is 0 decked with .042 copper head gasket. The cheap Professional Products Hurricane intake works GREAT with a Proforma 750 dp. It has an 11.25:1 compression and 185 lbs of cylinder pressure. With his manual transmission, that Chevelle would be a blast. Mine is in a 1980 El Camino.
Nice build, thanks Roger. AG
Hey there Mr G. Your proposed build looks very familiar.
Here's my latest. I'd be interested in your opinion.
357: 4.040” x 3.48”
Wiseco forged 5 cc piston
Eagle SIR rods 5.7”
GM forged crank
Balanced
.008” deck
750 Barry Grant VS
RPM Air Gap
RHS Pro Torker Vortec heads. 65.4 cc. Pocket ported
Jones Cam: 280°/284° @ .006", 232°/236° @.050", 108° LSA, 104° ICL, 64° ABDC IVC
.360"/.360" Lobe Lift
.576"/.576" Valve Lift
Crower 1.6 ratio .050” backset rocker
Mahle 5776 Head Gasket, Marine, 4.100 in. Bore, 0.032 in.
Headers: 1 5/8” x mid length
10.24 SCR / 8.23 DCR
Cranking pressure (188 theory)
I'm looking forward to your results. Our build philosophies are very similar (as is our vintage!)
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Kevin. Yes, quite similar. You have a little more compression and cam lift. Definitely more than 400HP. AG
@@goldsgarage8236
Thanks for that Mr G. Yes, this build I planned to be a step up from the earlier versions. Sounds great so far but now I'm waiting for the Alberta spring. Sometime in May! Thanks again.
the price difference between a identically built 350 and 383 is only about $500 dollars. the torque output is of the 383 is significantly more and worth the extra money. hands down worth the extra money and time. if you need more than a 383 can provide, you need to step up to a big block. even the best modern heads are not enough to properly feed a 400+ inch small block built for high performance. be careful with that 327 block, there were 2 different main journals used on 327 engines, i believe the early pre 1968 327s used a 2.300 main journals, late 327 used the 2.450 main journals. i believe only 68 and 69 327s used the 2.45 (aka 350 size main journals.) but i don't know exactly when they made that change in production. this looks like a great engine combination with the exception of 3 things.
1. chevy piston usually sit around .015 in the hole. so, cutting the deck down for a .005 deck Clearence means shaving .010 or more off the deck. this will destroy the factory numbers on the block. if this is a numbers matching block, it kills the value of the car should he ever decided to sell it. a thinner head gasket accomplishes the same thing as decking the block. i would use a Cometic C5270-030 head gasket. you still end up with the .045 quench but save the numbers on the block. Also, the MLS gaskets work better with aluminum heads than the fiber gaskets that FEL-PRO usually sells.
2. I don't like the LSA for the cam you chose, everything else is great. a 108 LSA will make more power, but the engine will be "peaky" with peak torque and peak horsepower very close together. they make that same camshaft in a 110 LSA and would widen the rpm range between peak torque and peak horsepower. if this is a street driven car then i would choose the 110LSA. in fact, i would prefer 112 LSA Cam for a car that heavy. Comp Cams Extreme Marine retrofit CL12-418-8 is a hydraulic roller that offers similar specs with a 112 LSA. the 110 and 112 LSA cams would make more engine vacuum for power breaks and have much better street manners. if i was only going to be a show the car or a track car, then the 108 LSA cam would be fine.
3. I know lots of people that have had p[roblems with the Bravex/Voltstorm HEI distributors from amazon. also, they don't put out anywhere near 65000 volts as claimed, it is closer to 30000 volts. even the top-of-the-line MSD Blaster HEI coils are only putting out 45000 volts. the ignition module in the Bravex distributer is junk and burns out very quickly. Additionally, some of those old cars don't have fire wall clearance for an HEI. My preferred distributer for retrofitting electronic ignition in a classic chevy is the PerTronics Flame-Thrower D7104600 and a Flame-Thrower III Coil. it looks like a factory distributer, and is the same diameter cap and rotor, but it has the Ignitor III electronic ignition module with a rev limiter and uses the same magnetic pickup as an HEI, it has both mechanical and vacuum advance for street use, and the ability to lock it out, should anyone decide to use it with computer-controlled ignition with retro throttle body fuel injection like a sniper EFI or FAST TBI setup, and the Flame Thrower III coil is one of the best coils on the market. I have run them in 1600 and 1776cc Baja Beetles where the factory horizontal mounting and bouncing over rocks would destroy a normal coil within a few miles of off-road racing. the addition of the rev limiter built into the ignition module in the distributer is also a saving grace if you are running a manual transmission and miss a shift when at the track or off road. shifters in VW's suck even on their best day. and hurst shifters tend to wear out the Bushings and its easy to miss a shift. it's just a little extra insurance. it also has multi spark like an MSD box, without all the hassle of an MSD box and it only needs the factory wiring. I can say enough good things about this distributer.
Shadvan, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. AG
Go with a regular Performer RPM intake. Sand the logos off and paint it Chevy orange to look like a stock intake.
Thanks for the suggestion N20. AG
That holes lubes the distributor gear
Thanks Steve, did Pontiac put it there? AG
@@goldsgarage8236 no, that is a modification.
Love all your videos how would we get ahold of the carb guy
Dave Forrest, are you watching? enter your contact info if you want. AG
496 big block 💪
Lmaoooooo no thanks
Build a 383. It works. Easy to obtain the desired power and torque without going full race.
Thanks AG
Hi Alan thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. This is just what I've been looking for!
I'm closely watching this build as I am rebuilding the 350 in my 70 Z28 it is also a 4 speed car.
I am looking to keep the block decking to a min of 0.005" and max 0.010" as my block is numbers matching and I want to keep the stampings on front pad.
Have you ever had to do this?
I've been looking at piston compression heights, looks like KB Claimer pistons have a reasonably high compression height with a 5.7" rod length.
All to get a get the quench below 0.048".
Have you discussed piston selection this previously?
Thanks for the question Chris. The 70 Z28 was an awesome hot rod. That is a tricky situation decking the block, while trying to keep the stampings.
If you are using cast iron heads, why not just use the .015" steel head gasket? Your OEM deck height is probably about .030" so that would give you .045" Quench height.
I have used KB claimer pistons many times with good results. Hope this helps. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you for the advice.
I need to keep planning this build :)
Again thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I was a diesel Mechanic and you explanation around inspecting, checking and reusing (if in good condition) bolts and parts reflect my own knowledge and training.
thanks Chris, glad you are enjoying it and finding it helpful. AG
On the Pontiac The hole is there to oil the distributor gear it should be about a .030 hole ....
some ford guys do the same thing
Thanks Scott. Do you think the hole is necessary? AG
I'd go with a 350 or 383 but with the cam and lifter debacle going on i'd go with a roller cam and stay away from solids all together.
Thanks Mark, the cam is a hydraulic roller. AG
You can go to 400 cubes with his block by using a 4.00" stroke crankshaft.
Just like the modified stock cars in the day! Thanks. aG
406 all day
Thanks Rick. i love 400's too! AG
8.30 overall works well. Which is th400 and 3.31 rear. I run 9.67 overall so I get it. 😂
Thanks for watching and commenting. AG
You should have a customer take car to wheel dyno 350.383,400 to show what each one makes wheel for realistic numbers
370 cubic inch
As stated it squirts oil on the distributor gear, Oldsmobile does the same thing. Its not for bleeding
thanks DMR, the hole is not OEM, correct? AG
@@goldsgarage8236 It might be factory Sure is better to have some squirting oil on it I would reinstall It back there
knew someone who pulled a 400 and stuck in a 350 in his truck,, He hated it ever since for lack of towing ability.
Thanks Rss. AG
How about a 334. Yes the smaller bore limits airflow for big power, but can be snappy and fuel efficient dyreet engines. The small bore does aid detonation resistance so a higher CR can be used even with 87 fuel.
Thanks Dale, good input. AG
Right, you got me. A 434 stroker won't beat your 383. Just give the 350 every advantage and it's better, basically that is your argument. You win genius.
Didn't the dbl hump w/ assy holes come out in '68 when they changed to larger mains?
Thanks Cliff. In 69 GM moved the alternator to the passenger side and started drilling and tapping accessory holes to mount the alt bracket. AG
For a street car, real world application of how vast majority of drivers would use the vehicle … 350 SBC
Thanks for the comment, good point, probably why there are more 350's than any other engine. AG
You mentioned a good / reliable HEI distributor you’ve had luck with from Amazon? Can you share which one you’ve been buying for builds like this?
Sure Eric. Bravex Super High Performance Ready to run. AG
Thank you; much appreciated 👍
350 383 400 350/195 cc 383/ 210cc 400/220cc **** look up the pinch /mcsa chevy are small
AFR is preferred but Dart 215 ok for 383/400 236/242 cam approx 11-12 inches vac
11.2 CR no smaller than 230/236 duration .
Go 195 cyl head small HR 224/230 Street only Ede Rpm manifold . No more than 10.5 :1
Good info, thanks AG
You have to take in consideration he's running a standard transmission which his choice is unlimited. Short Stroke Big Bore turn it up make horsepower. Big Bore long stroke driving like Grandma make horsepower.
Thanks Sherwin. AG
Yeah some put hole in anywhere from .040 - .070
Can you use a 1.6 to gain lift? Or is that just a dumb way to do it.
good question Dave. Of course, lift helps everywhere, sometimes more than others, depending on whether the heads can use it. AG
Go big or go home. 383 all day for the street low end type power !!
400. Anyone who's run one apples to apples knows. It is a 383 with more displacement isn't it? There's no replacement for displacement.
Isn't the 400 larger than 383
Yes, most 400's were eunuchs from the factory. Quiet and to tug grandma's big car around without making a scene. Give them some testosterone and they run.
Yes, however with the same stroke. However it employs the use of larger bore design and requires steam holes drilled into heads, unless you have the aftermarket block as a basis for your 4.125" + bore size. And can fit a 2.10" intake valve or more with work. The most excellent thing going for the 383 is it is absolutely center in bore stroke ratio of efficiency. Better than the 350, and better than the 400. The 400 is a great engine no doubt and can easily make power with the biggest intake valve. You would have to notch the bore of a 350 style block to even fit, much less unshroud. That is it's main advantage. Here the 383 wins in my book, because you can make great street power even with smaller valves than you could fit into a 400.@@RickHopfingerJustAddWaterHydro
383 is better than 400, even a bored out 400 has a the fatal flaw of the siamese
400 doesn't have any issues overheating if you use a big radiator. It's bigger, needs a bigger cooling system. Pretty simple. None of mine get hot at all. Everyone likes what they like, I honestly prefer a big block any day. Kinda like pizza, it's all good!
I have the chance to buy a 350 block bored .40 over or a stock 400 block and i dont know what one to pic
Thanks Lee, that is a pretty open question. Think about your desired outcome, define your objectives. Which one will satisfy them with the least cost and risk? AG
30 over 400 would be better 406 would be perfect
thanks Deer. AG
Is a stock 350 from the early chevys internally balanced or external ? Thanks Allen
The 400 was the only fully external balance engine front and back, later one piece main engines were external rear neutral front.
A 383 may need to be externally balanced, contact your crankshaft manufacturer when buying a crank.@@stevewalters6853
Thanks Brandon, the 350's are all internally balanced. AG
1967-85 350's were internal balanced, starting in 1986-on(1 piece seal) are all external balanced.
Thanks for the feed back. It's nice to get educated answers from you all. It keeps me from messing up an costing myself a bunch of money and repairs. Lol Thanks
Did you ever consider building a 372 CI engine, later
Sure, we will get to it eventually. AG
The cam and the 200cc version of the head you talked about would be good for a 355. You speak of the heads to keep it original looking but then talk of an HEI style distributor ...... really ? Yes they work ok, but don't fit the firewall well on a 68 and are ugly as hell. A 383 with the same cam or slightly bigger would be a better choice, and who could know the difference? 650 carb ? NO ! Most Qjets were 750. Nothing less for a 355. For the gears and girth of the Chevelle the 750 would be ok for a 383 but an 850 will give more top end. Take all the parts you have chosen and make a 383 except for the small carb, and you will have a very happy client. I do this as a living almost every day. 45 years and counting.
Thanks Comet. Turns out that Steve has a good Pertronix distributor and Quadrajet carburetor which we will use if he chooses to go forward. AG
I’d built a high torque 350
Thanks for the comment Hall. AG
454! Always big block!
350 .060 over with a 4 inch stroke.
Thanks Peter. AG
400 Dart little M.
Thanks. AG
Why wouldn't you run a 880 factory roller lifter block and run the factory lifters that are way cheaper and no need usually for custom length push rods besides +.100 usually for aluminum heads. Factory roller lifters can handle up to .550 lift! You could save the customer 3-400 bucks..
Good suggestion Larry. good 880 blocks with the fuel pimp mount are hard to find around here anyway. AG
dodge 340
A 351 Windsor
A hydraulic lifter should not have anymore preload than .020"-.050"...
Someone put wrong plug .
Build a 400 and be done with it.
Thanks AG
69 and 68 do not look exactly the same. Tail lights are completely diferent
The presenter here needs work. His voice tapers off in every sentence, so you have difficulty understanding him. He needs better coaching.
Really doesn't cost that much more to build a 383 than a 350 and use a 880 block! But if you can find a good 400 block it will make more power but cost you way more to run roller lifters ect! Personally For that Chevelle I would put a big block in it with aluminum heads! Them cars are chunky and need lots of torque to be really quick!
Thanks Larry. AG