I love the painters tape and CA glue trick, thanks man!
4 года назад+4
Getting ready to build one of these for my new DeWalt DW735. I've watched dozens of these "sled" videos and I have to say some of these guys get a little ridiculous with all the complex add-ons. Give me a break, it's a flat piece of wood with a backstop. One of my primary concerns was the hot glue residue left on the ply/MDF base. It's a pain to remove it all and after a while it's going to build up and become a real problem. You have a very unique and simple idea to use the painters tape and CA in conjunction with the shims. Thanks for not overthinking and solving this problem.
I do exactly like you did in this video…The only difference is that I use glue…Works great…I’ve also run my boards with out glue and I’ve never had any problems…
AWESOME.......great demmo and simple explanation......will try it out tomorrow......just one question...do you have to use the activator to make it stick ? Thank you again !!!!!
Just watched the CNC Q&A and when I saw the thumbnail for this one I thought "did they get someone new for the videos?" until I looked closer ;-) I don't have a planer and needed to flatten and thin a board for a project so I made one of those router sliding setups to move my router over it, worked perfect. Also when we bought this house I had a dedicated 20 amp circuit ran from the breaker panel to the garage. I wasn't taking any chances lol
1 dedicated 20-amp circuit is not enough for a shop. In the video he tells us he can't always run the planer & vac at the same time. I get it. That Dewalt planer draws upwards of 15 amps & the vac is probably in the 6 to 12 amp range. Those 2 can easily trip a 20-amp breaker...
Thanks for keeping it simple. My planer will get here in a couple days and I'll build this in the meantime. I've been making things out of my old deck boards and it's been a huge hassle.
Simple design with great explanation. Was looking to make something more elaborate because that's what I kept finding. Not anymore. I can make this today with no extra cost. Also, if for no other reason, subbing for support of the Blue Line. 100% brother.
I was going to buy plans for one of those adjustable sleds but this may do the job. Perfect timing because my planer should be here within the next week. Great simple ideas you come up with. I saw your video on the cornhole boards and thought that was down to the basics too. Thanks for the videos. Subscribed.
Great video. Another option you can try is put 120 Grit Adhesive-Backed Sanding Roll paper on the bottom of the jig and nothing will move when you put it through the planer. Just another thought but thank you for another great video. And Merry Christmas from an LEO in Florida.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to build one tomorrow. What about a piece of pine from the big box store that is warped like a smile? It's not always wobbly. Where did you get the vacuum hose?
As always I fall into the category of "I didnt know that" (being that I am a true woodworking novice) and I'm always grateful for your videos each time you put one out....thank you very much and cant wait to see your cribbage board (now I'm off to go look up what a "cribbage" is 🥴).
Hey so what’s the 2 part adhesive u use? & I just watched another video and buddy said to put high corner of board to the back. Is there a difference? I get the concept
Hey I have been using this jig and it works great!! I do have a question though. If my board is twisted on both ends, do I use shims on both ends? I have a board that will not lay flat against the sled once the shims are in on the other end of the board. Thanks for your help!!
I've used the hot glue as well. It works well. However it's too slow compared to hot glue but the shims are a pain . I discovered the double sided paper tape. Works without superglue but shims still needed. However, I like the idea in another comment seems best. I'll give it a try. Another comment or question: I didn't see snipe on your board. Did you get any or did the camera not pick it up? There are several videos on this topic but none I have seen it eliminate it completely. If you didn't get any How did you prevent it. Thanks.
Having just watched quite a few planer jig videos this is my favourite. I was already thinking of using painters tape and superglue and maybe trying painters tape and hot glue (which I've never tried). I did try hot glue without painters tape and it tore some chunks out of some figured mahogany and was difficult to remove from the sled, so won't be doing that again. I might make a torsion box sled though as I have had problems with plyboard warping slightly with time. Greate video thanks.
Hello Joe thanks for the demo on how simple and effective this jig works. I am definitely aware of that Method but never out much faith into it and hence I never used one. But I have some extra 1/2 in Baltic birch ply that is perfect as a sled for this. It should take me about five minutes to make one if I take my time. Seeing is believing Merry Christmas to you and your family Harleymike/chicago
Every time I need to straighten up a twisted board they are always oversized from finish size I need so I just screw a wood screw into the gap corner and adjust to remove the rock. Works great for me and a lot faster then fiddling with shims.
Thanks for this helpful video. I have a question after seeing several videos on sleds. Why do you run the sled through the planer with the cleat at the front rather than at the rear? I see others put the cleat at the rear. What is the reason behind the placement of the cleat?
Because the rollers are up in the planer, and push the workpiece forward. So you indeed need a forward facing cleat. Without it, the sled could theoretically stay behind as the workpiece slides on it. So the people who put the cleat behind clearly dont know how a planer pushes the wood forward…
The rear facing cleat is more often used for when you have an undersized jointer and a wide board. Joint the board then shim with a rear cleat in the underside of cut to make it parellel. Then flip it
BlueLine WoodWorks Hey thanks a lot. Just retired off the job after 40 yrs, and figured I needed something to do other than looking for miscreants. So I started CNCing. LOL. LIKE UR STUFF, thanks
Ha! Your power situation sounds like mine! I’ve got extension cords from the outside outlets that run to the garage so I don’t have to keep resetting the breaker 🤦♂️
Could be haha. I'm no expert but I run it through this way every time and it seems to help with snipe just like it would if it was the other way around
I thought the same thing at first, but when you think about it -- the feed rollers on the planer are pulling the work piece forward and through the machine, which is pushing the end of the board against the stop on the sled.. which is then just dragging his sled along with the work piece. :)
@@benjaminl3084 Indeed there seems to be some confusion on this point, and some videos show the sled fence on the back of the sled. This would only be correct on those (commercial) planers that have the feed rollers at the bottom, and "grab" the bottom of the sled to push it forward. Most all lunch box planers have the rollers on top, and grab the top of the sled's workpiece to pull it forward.
maybe i did this wrong but i tried this but with hot glue on a cutting board i was making and now it has a low ends and high center. any suggestions on what i did wrong ?
Hi, to solve your circuit breaker problem is very simple; get a 20 or 30 amp rated extension cord, your extension cord is too thin. I was a contractor and always had this problem with my compressor, I solved the problem with a thicker cord, never happened again, a thin extension cord will make the amperage go too high, above the 15 amp rated circuit breaker current and this will trip the breaker. I am sure this will fix the problem.
is it just me or did you run the sled backwards? I would imagine the lip would go threw last not first. Maybe it does not matter? Ive made my sled and secured my wood but it feels wrong to run the stop block end threw first...
Assuming you have a benchtop ("lunchbox") style planer, the rollers are in the top portion and contact the top of the workpiece to pull it through. This works on a plain board (no sled) because the board simply slips along the base plate of the planer. If the board is on top of a sled, the rollers will try to pull the board into the planer and off the sled. The stop block is needed to transfer this pulling force through the sled; otherwise the workpiece will slide off the sled, leaving it behind as the workpiece goes through. So, the stopblock has to be at the front.
Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb suggests propping the end of the wood, not beginning, so the planer starts taking out the material near the end stop! ruclips.net/video/OK5CxqYmUSo/видео.html
I love the painters tape and CA glue trick, thanks man!
Getting ready to build one of these for my new DeWalt DW735. I've watched dozens of these "sled" videos and I have to say some of these guys get a little ridiculous with all the complex add-ons. Give me a break, it's a flat piece of wood with a backstop. One of my primary concerns was the hot glue residue left on the ply/MDF base. It's a pain to remove it all and after a while it's going to build up and become a real problem. You have a very unique and simple idea to use the painters tape and CA in conjunction with the shims. Thanks for not overthinking and solving this problem.
I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!
Best explanation I’ve seen on this. Nicely done!
Just pick up my planer and was thinking about building a tricked out jig, but he made the process look so simple yet complete. I’m going this route!
Good use of CA glue. Nice job.
Cant wait to see the cribbage board!! love to see how you drill all the holes!
I'll be using my CNC for that since I have it, but if I didn't, I would probably use one of the templates that a few woodworking stores carry
Really awesome tips and not expensive or time consuming ... thanks
I do exactly like you did in this video…The only difference is that I use glue…Works great…I’ve also run my boards with out glue and I’ve never had any problems…
Nicely done Joe! It is a rather easy process but, as you noted, it has to be done right in order to get good results.
Thank you for watching sir, I appreciate it!
excellent tip!!! hugs from here in Brazil
Thanks for watching!
AWESOME.......great demmo and simple explanation......will try it out tomorrow......just one question...do you have to use the activator to make it stick ? Thank you again !!!!!
Just watched the CNC Q&A and when I saw the thumbnail for this one I thought "did they get someone new for the videos?" until I looked closer ;-) I don't have a planer and needed to flatten and thin a board for a project so I made one of those router sliding setups to move my router over it, worked perfect. Also when we bought this house I had a dedicated 20 amp circuit ran from the breaker panel to the garage. I wasn't taking any chances lol
Router sleds are awesome jigs too! I have a few that I use to flatten slabs and they work great
1 dedicated 20-amp circuit is not enough for a shop. In the video he tells us he can't always run the planer & vac at the same time. I get it. That Dewalt planer draws upwards of 15 amps & the vac is probably in the 6 to 12 amp range. Those 2 can easily trip a 20-amp breaker...
Great, simple and works. Great presentation.
Love this method
Thank you for the video!
Nice and simple 👍... I have to keep it on the sled otherwise I get terrible snipe! Thanks. Cheers.
Thanks for keeping it simple. My planer will get here in a couple days and I'll build this in the meantime. I've been making things out of my old deck boards and it's been a huge hassle.
Excellent tutorial. Do you find that the MDF sled stays flatter for longer boards?
Simple design with great explanation. Was looking to make something more elaborate because that's what I kept finding. Not anymore. I can make this today with no extra cost. Also, if for no other reason, subbing for support of the Blue Line. 100% brother.
I was going to buy plans for one of those adjustable sleds but this may do the job. Perfect timing because my planer should be here within the next week. Great simple ideas you come up with. I saw your video on the cornhole boards and thought that was down to the basics too. Thanks for the videos. Subscribed.
I just watched for the stache man!! Good work!
That is a manly freakin’ stache. Totally jealous.
Great video. Another option you can try is put 120 Grit Adhesive-Backed Sanding Roll paper on the bottom of the jig and nothing will move when you put it through the planer. Just another thought but thank you for another great video. And Merry Christmas from an LEO in Florida.
Excellent suggestion, thank you for that. And Merry Christmas to you and yours. Stay safe!
Awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I'm going to build one tomorrow. What about a piece of pine from the big box store that is warped like a smile? It's not always wobbly. Where did you get the vacuum hose?
Add a 20A circuit for the power tools only and leave dust collection on the original 15A. Solved my power issue.
I'm on a 20A circuit. I'm looking to have an entire sub panel put in just for the garage
awesome video super simple!!
Thanks for watching!
As always I fall into the category of "I didnt know that" (being that I am a true woodworking novice) and I'm always grateful for your videos each time you put one out....thank you very much and cant wait to see your cribbage board (now I'm off to go look up what a "cribbage" is 🥴).
Thank you very much for the support, I really appreciate it!
Hey so what’s the 2 part adhesive u use? & I just watched another video and buddy said to put high corner of board to the back. Is there a difference? I get the concept
nice.
Thanks for watching!
Your video makes it look easy. Ive yet to use my planer.
Thanks for watching!
Hey I have been using this jig and it works great!! I do have a question though. If my board is twisted on both ends, do I use shims on both ends? I have a board that will not lay flat against the sled once the shims are in on the other end of the board. Thanks for your help!!
I usually use hot glue just because its faster for me. Another great video!
Thanks for watching!
What do you use to get the glue off after planing?
@@chrisnail186 a chisel. Then I flip the unplaned side up and plane the glue off that
I've used the hot glue as well. It works well. However it's too slow compared to hot glue but the shims are a pain .
I discovered the double sided paper tape. Works without superglue but shims still needed. However, I like the idea in another comment seems best. I'll give it a try.
Another comment or question: I didn't see snipe on your board. Did you get any or did the camera not pick it up? There are several videos on this topic but none I have seen it eliminate it completely.
If you didn't get any How did you prevent it. Thanks.
Having just watched quite a few planer jig videos this is my favourite. I was already thinking of using painters tape and superglue and maybe trying painters tape and hot glue (which I've never tried). I did try hot glue without painters tape and it tore some chunks out of some figured mahogany and was difficult to remove from the sled, so won't be doing that again. I might make a torsion box sled though as I have had problems with plyboard warping slightly with time. Greate video thanks.
Just using painters tape and hot glue worked great (when the distortion is not too great). I also used a few playing cards as shims : )
cool
Liked for the traffic stache...lol
Haha it's back in full force right now
Hello Joe thanks for the demo on how simple and effective this jig works. I am definitely aware of that Method but never out much faith into it and hence I never used one. But I have some extra 1/2 in Baltic birch ply that is perfect as a sled for this. It should take me about five minutes to make one if I take my time. Seeing is believing
Merry Christmas to you and your family
Harleymike/chicago
I use mine all of the time! I appreciate the support and a Merry Christmas to your family as well!
Every time I need to straighten up a twisted board they are always oversized from finish size I need so I just screw a wood screw into the gap corner and adjust to remove the rock. Works great for me and a lot faster then fiddling with shims.
Solid tip, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this helpful video. I have a question after seeing several videos on sleds. Why do you run the sled through the planer with the cleat at the front rather than at the rear? I see others put the cleat at the rear. What is the reason behind the placement of the cleat?
Because the rollers are up in the planer, and push the workpiece forward. So you indeed need a forward facing cleat. Without it, the sled could theoretically stay behind as the workpiece slides on it. So the people who put the cleat behind clearly dont know how a planer pushes the wood forward…
Amen
The rear facing cleat is more often used for when you have an undersized jointer and a wide board. Joint the board then shim with a rear cleat in the underside of cut to make it parellel. Then flip it
Joe when you opening up for a shop tour. I've got so many questions about the Shapeoko #Raleigh
I have no free time hahahaha
Hey
Does this sled help or eliminate SNIPE
Most of the time I don't get any snipe when using this
BlueLine WoodWorks
Hey thanks a lot. Just retired off the job after 40 yrs, and figured I needed something to do other than looking for miscreants. So I started CNCing. LOL. LIKE UR STUFF, thanks
@@Cmdr122 I appreciate the support!
Could you just tape the shim down to the sled?
sweet
Thanks!
Ha! Your power situation sounds like mine! I’ve got extension cords from the outside outlets that run to the garage so I don’t have to keep resetting the breaker 🤦♂️
I do that too haha
I have the same setup! Glad I'm not the only one.
I always wince before I turn mine on. I think on startup together it takes about 16 or 17 maps. Very aggravating. I'm too lazy to rewire.
Well no
I didn’t know how to do that. Awaiting your cribbage board. Thanks
Thank you for watching! Working on the cribbage board now!
Just me or did the sled go in backwards? Waiting on the next vid!
Could be haha. I'm no expert but I run it through this way every time and it seems to help with snipe just like it would if it was the other way around
@@LazyLabAcres I would imagine there's potential for kick back but probably not while rollers are in good condition
I thought the same thing at first, but when you think about it -- the feed rollers on the planer are pulling the work piece forward and through the machine, which is pushing the end of the board against the stop on the sled.. which is then just dragging his sled along with the work piece. :)
@@LazyLabAcres What Wing's LLC said is correct. You are putting it though the planer the correct way.
@@benjaminl3084 Indeed there seems to be some confusion on this point, and some videos show the sled fence on the back of the sled. This would only be correct on those (commercial) planers that have the feed rollers at the bottom, and "grab" the bottom of the sled to push it forward. Most all lunch box planers have the rollers on top, and grab the top of the sled's workpiece to pull it forward.
this dude looks like bingus
but hey nice tutorial dude, I'm getting a planer later next month and this will help me a lot and save me some money too. cheers from brazil
maybe i did this wrong but i tried this but with hot glue on a cutting board i was making and now it has a low ends and high center. any suggestions on what i did wrong ?
no idea lol
Hi, to solve your circuit breaker problem is very simple; get a 20 or 30 amp rated extension cord, your extension cord is too thin. I was a contractor and always had this problem with my compressor, I solved the problem with a thicker cord, never happened again, a thin extension cord will make the amperage go too high, above the 15 amp rated circuit breaker current and this will trip the breaker. I am sure this will fix the problem.
Thanks for the tips!
is it just me or did you run the sled backwards? I would imagine the lip would go threw last not first. Maybe it does not matter? Ive made my sled and secured my wood but it feels wrong to run the stop block end threw first...
I don't think it matters to be honest 😂 seen it done both ways. I had great results doing it this way
Assuming you have a benchtop ("lunchbox") style planer, the rollers are in the top portion and contact the top of the workpiece to pull it through. This works on a plain board (no sled) because the board simply slips along the base plate of the planer. If the board is on top of a sled, the rollers will try to pull the board into the planer and off the sled. The stop block is needed to transfer this pulling force through the sled; otherwise the workpiece will slide off the sled, leaving it behind as the workpiece goes through. So, the stopblock has to be at the front.
Isn't the point of the lip on the sled to keep it from sliding backwards going through the planer? Running it through lip first defeats that purpose.
Was wondering the exact same thing, but watching many videos on this, they always put the lip to the front. I don't get it.
Ah, someone else asked the same question down in the comments. I get it now.
Built a sled. Planer kept grabbing the twisted board. Now I know what I did wrong. Thanks Man!
Thanks for watching!
Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb suggests propping the end of the wood, not beginning, so the planer starts taking out the material near the end stop! ruclips.net/video/OK5CxqYmUSo/видео.html