I use the same technique with the sled (I don't even own a jointer). I would suggest running the cleat of the sled forward on the planer since the top rollers are pushing the workpiece against the sled. If the glue failed and the sled got stuck, it could push the piece right off the sled. Since the sander has a bottom conveyer that is pushing the sled, then the correct direction would be with the cleat to the rear.
I was having a hard time getting a 3”x9”x7’ teak lumber to straighten up. I just had to build an 8 feet jig like yours. FFS why didn’t I research this last week 🤦🏽♂️. Thank you!
great way to flatten, i'm just starting out using planer and honestly was about to throw away a nice piece of plank, but will try this tomorrow,....thanks....
Thank you very much.....great demmo and instruction. I am totally new at this.....how would i place the the shims when the board is bowed ? Which side would I plane first ? the side that has the left and right edge making contact with the surface or with the sides pointing up.? Thank you again.....
I see I'm not the only one to use hot glue to secure things down. I often drill down rock hard endgrain from forest salvaged logs to make planters and I used to make these fancy log holding clamps for the drill press. Now I just glob glue on a piece of plywood and stick the piece on it then clamp that to the drill press. Even with a 4 inch forstner on a crappy little drill press the thing will kick the table sideways before the piece comes off the glue. I like simple things that work.
I know that this video is a little old now, but very useful and well explained. Question: If you are using this for a guitar, how did you deal with that big crack in the wood?
Cherry is underrated. I have a few pieces of it, and it is probably the most beautiful hardwood I've seen. Maple looks bland and plain by comparison. Oak has large, open grain. Cherry has tight, closed grain. I think they say it's hard to work with, and splits easier, but it has ridiculously clean grain, and looks almost like manufactured wood because it's so perfectly colored and textured. Also, I have a super thin strip of Cherry wood (3/32" thick) and it's extremely rigid.
I cut down a decent sized black cherry tree in my yard last year and have had the wood drying since, going to start building some furniture from it. I have probably a cord of 8' lengths.
Nice video, Having a bit of a problem with a drum sander conveyor belt ! Have a drum sander just over a year and had to replace the belt, it basically stretched out and would not stay centered. Yet a neighbor has had his for years with no problems.I am wondering since I use a sled for pieces that don’t fit in planer if this is a cause. Will a sled cause a conveyor to stretch? Don’t want to ruin new one! Thanks
I have had my drum sander for about 5 years and I have had to adjust the belt to track properly a few times. I haven't had to replace it yet though. I would guess the stretching may be caused by over tightening the belt. I do not think its your sled. I only tighten mine enough to have it lay flat on the table and feed consistently. I hope that helps.
You are not the first RUclipsr to make the mistake of running the sled cleat behind the work piece as if the sled was pushing the piece through rather than the other way around.
The sled cleat in my application helps keep the piece from being kicked back out of my drum sander. Unlike a planer where the feed rollers are on top and pull the piece through, a drum sander is fed by the belt on the bottom and pushes the piece through. If I was using a planer, I'd have the cleat at the front, but for the drum sander, cleat goes to the back. I hope that helps clear things up.
I use the same technique with the sled (I don't even own a jointer). I would suggest running the cleat of the sled forward on the planer since the top rollers are pushing the workpiece against the sled. If the glue failed and the sled got stuck, it could push the piece right off the sled. Since the sander has a bottom conveyer that is pushing the sled, then the correct direction would be with the cleat to the rear.
I was having a hard time getting a 3”x9”x7’ teak lumber to straighten up. I just had to build an 8 feet jig like yours. FFS why didn’t I research this last week 🤦🏽♂️. Thank you!
Jeff thanks for sharing man! Super helpful for a beginner like me
Great info. I wouldn't have thought to use hot clue. Genius quick-set and easily removed solution.
Simple and easy....this should help out a lot of folks.... well done👍🏼
Thanks man! Tips and tricks are always handy.
Thanks for uploading - much appreciated. This is exactly what RUclips is for
This was extremely helpful. Your instructions were clear. ThNk you
Glad it was helpful!
great way to flatten, i'm just starting out using planer and honestly was about to throw away a nice piece of plank, but will try this tomorrow,....thanks....
Awesome, I'm glad it saved a piece of wood from the trash.
Just what I needed to know, well presented, clear and concise. Thanks mate 👍
Am I learning from Roland schitt from schitts creek in disguise? Great video thank you! 🙏
You are very positive and happy faced person :) keep going• i’m waiting your next episodes 🤟🏻😁🤟🏻
Thank you so much 😀
Thanks …this simplified the process immensely! Worked great…
Awesomely clear, and seems like a nice dude. Cheers man
Very timely video... I'm considering purchasing a planer thicknesser....
Cool, They are definitely a handy tool to have.
Thank you! This fixed a problem I was having.
Awesome! I'm glad it helped you out.
Excellent video and great tip! I screwed up on a glue-up and this technique saved the day. Thanks for the info.
Thank you very much.....great demmo and instruction. I am totally new at this.....how would i place the the shims when the board is bowed ? Which side would I plane first ? the side that has the left and right edge making contact with the surface or with the sides pointing up.? Thank you again.....
I see I'm not the only one to use hot glue to secure things down. I often drill down rock hard endgrain from forest salvaged logs to make planters and I used to make these fancy log holding clamps for the drill press. Now I just glob glue on a piece of plywood and stick the piece on it then clamp that to the drill press.
Even with a 4 inch forstner on a crappy little drill press the thing will kick the table sideways before the piece comes off the glue.
I like simple things that work.
Thank you Amigo!!! Great teaching
Thank You!
Thank you. Just what I needed
Glad it helped!
Very well made video. Thank you for the help.
Thanks, really helpful! Trying it tomorrow.
sure love how you got rid of the "wobbly bits".... :)
We can't have wobbly bits now. lol.
Does the sled need to be longer or as long as the board?
Good video! This technique works well, but I was surprised at the reduction in total thickness. I will have to use that board for "something else"😏
Thanks! Reproduced- highly effective, much appreciated.
Awesome. I'm glad it worked for you. It's a handy trick to have up your sleeve.
In other videos they stated to flip the board around each pass for a prettier finish. Is this true?
What grit sand paper did you use?
Great video these tips worked for me!
I know that this video is a little old now, but very useful and well explained. Question: If you are using this for a guitar, how did you deal with that big crack in the wood?
That nasty part fell outside the shape of the body. I made a 3 piece body for this guitar. Its one of my favorites.
Thank you very much for this. Really helpful.
Thank you from Tuscany Italy, Lajatico
Once you flatten the first face, you can run the board through without the sled. That way you can get both sides parallel as well as flat.
Yes! Thats what I did on the drum sander.
thanks a bunch great help.
Glad it helped!
Great tutorial. Thanks.
Great video! Thank you
Isnt it better to use a jointer?
If you can keep it nice and straight and have a large enough jointer, that it another option.
Cherry is underrated. I have a few pieces of it, and it is probably the most beautiful hardwood I've seen. Maple looks bland and plain by comparison. Oak has large, open grain. Cherry has tight, closed grain. I think they say it's hard to work with, and splits easier, but it has ridiculously clean grain, and looks almost like manufactured wood because it's so perfectly colored and textured. Also, I have a super thin strip of Cherry wood (3/32" thick) and it's extremely rigid.
I cut down a decent sized black cherry tree in my yard last year and have had the wood drying since, going to start building some furniture from it. I have probably a cord of 8' lengths.
nice idea
Thank you! 😊
Brilliant
Good
No Disrespect, but are you Related to Chris Elliot by any chance? I always loved his characters!
my hairless guitarist, 😂😂💯💯💯💯👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏❤️
Thanks Giovanni. Rock on!
Nice video, Having a bit of a problem with a drum sander conveyor belt ! Have a drum sander just over a year and had to replace the belt, it basically stretched out and would not stay centered. Yet a neighbor has had his for years with no problems.I am wondering since I use a sled for pieces that don’t fit in planer if this is a cause. Will a sled cause a conveyor to stretch? Don’t want to ruin new one! Thanks
I have had my drum sander for about 5 years and I have had to adjust the belt to track properly a few times. I haven't had to replace it yet though. I would guess the stretching may be caused by over tightening the belt. I do not think its your sled. I only tighten mine enough to have it lay flat on the table and feed consistently. I hope that helps.
@@homebuiltshop
Thank You 😊 so much .
Almost there, just have to find tune it . Although it still very touchy. Thanks
you never did use the drum sander. Does that mean it’s really not possible to use the drum sander for planing?
genius.
Nice nice nice 🎉
You are not the first RUclipsr to make the mistake of running the sled cleat behind the work piece as if the sled was pushing the piece through rather than the other way around.
The sled cleat in my application helps keep the piece from being kicked back out of my drum sander. Unlike a planer where the feed rollers are on top and pull the piece through, a drum sander is fed by the belt on the bottom and pushes the piece through. If I was using a planer, I'd have the cleat at the front, but for the drum sander, cleat goes to the back. I hope that helps clear things up.
o just purchase a jointer its zip and done haha!!
I have a jointer myself, but not everyone does. I wanted to show a cool way to get by without a jointer.
@@homebuiltshop i was messing with you .
Thanks. Just what I needed.
Glad I could help!