Good pointer for dealing with stick brake lines. I like how you closed the video. A brake line in that condition, it's just a matter of time before it develops a leak.
For those complaining that he didn't just replace the line right away, how about for the situation of having to remove a brake cylinder for a customer, a customer who does not have the money to replace both the cylinder and the line? How about for the situation in which you go to the store and they have a replacement wheel cylinder for you, but will have to order the brake line, which won't be in for two more days, and you are stranded on the road, in another state? Good tips, Eric. Thanks for addressing the need to replace the line all together, at the end of the video. I wish more guys had acknowledged that you took care of that.
I'd tell my customer that I cannot put that piece of crap back on your car. It's dangerous and I could be held liable and if you don't like it, take it down the street. It's only a few bucks. I rarely buy preformed lines and have become very good at bending and flaring my own.
Loads of people saying a new brake pipe isn't expensive but us mechanics aren't free, if a pipe snaps and a customer won't pay why should we be out of pocket. Eric's channel seems to have the most people trying to nitpick over his methods.
@pakking Who you were quick to call an idiot may just not have the money to pay the extra hour of labor you were about to charge for the line. I have been in that very position. But you are absolutely correct in saying that you have the right to send that customer out of your shop. They would go down the road, and look for somebody willing to do what Eric just did, until they get the money to come back and fix the lines.
I have used Freeze off. Have not broke a line sense. Your advice on just replacing the line is spot on! The crap they spray on the roads in the winter just eats everything. I have started using Fluid Film on the underside of my cars.
Ive run into this situation many times, sometimes on my car sometimes not. One friend of mine was a real cheapskate and always took the least expensive way - least expensive for that moment until the line blew on an old single master cylinder system and he lost all braking, fortunately no traffic and he got it stopped with the parking break and downshifting. But Eric is right, replace any lines that are this badly rusted - if theyre rusted bad enough to be froze to the nut it wont be long before youre taking a white knuckle ride-lol
One of the best tips I've ever seen, and this seems to be pretty true, is if you can knock all the loose rust off the threads/where the bolt or nut meets the other metal surface, down in those cracks that rust and dirt create a lot of friction and sometimes that's why a nut or bolt is binding. I know it's not possible every time, but I know I've hit brake lines with a steel brush for a minute and got it nice and clean, then sprayed it with penetrating oil and it broke loose nicer than the other lines on the same vehicle where I just started twisting.
If you strip out the nut and you're truly SOL, you can also just rebuild the wheel cylinder in place. Pillage the new one and install the parts into the old body still bolted to the car.
Eric. Just need to say thank you. Have been working on my wife's car for two weeks and ran into the last wheel cylinder, and was worried about twisting and snapping the line. I saw your vid and went duh. Thank you. It worked. Props to you from one backyard to another. Niccccccccce!
Brilliant, which is why I do it that way too. After I’ve removed the wheel cylinder, at that point I put a torch on the ferrel, heat it up and expand it, and it will break free of the line, pull it back, clean out the crud and your good to go.
@abytc2023 it doesn’t take much, I use an oxy/acetylene torch, right on the ferrel, maybe only 10-15 seconds, it’s not going to turn red, but it will expand enough to break the rust bond. It will free up, pull it back and do a little cleaning. It’s so small it heats up quickly, I bet a propane torch would work too, just take a bit longer.
I can't begin to tell you how much this saved my ass on a customers car. I love learning a thing or too from the guys who've been doing this longer. Thanks Eric!
Used this trick for years, when people won't stump up the extra for new pipes. It's also useful when someone has previously fitted copper brake lines and the union is siezed, trying to undo the union will twist the pipe and eventually snap it.
This by far the easiest way to remove & replace your wheel cylinder without the head ache of twisted or broken brake lines ! Thank you very much, every step was a challenge but slowly the bolts came out & the removal was quite easy ! Best tip i have learned in a while !!!
Very clever way of getting some additional leverage and brute force to remove the fitting without rounding off the nut or breaking the line, even with a line wrench. Nice!
Umm, putting a wrench on something to get more leverage to turn it is a concept that's been around for two centuries... maybe it was clever the first time some guy made a wrench from scratch to do that but since then, it's pretty much what a wrench IS FOR.
I had same problem I used a small torch and put some heat on break line nut and helped break it loose with out damaging line i did it first before removing wheel cylinder clip hopefully this will help someone thanks for posting your video clip Everyone Have a Great Blessed Day
Eric I just want to say THANK YOU!!! This GD brake line is the last part holding me back from finishing this month long nightmare project that was never supposed to be this big of a pain in the ass. Idk what I expected though she is a 20 yo Wrangler and she's getting old and crabby like me 😆
for those people that say "replace the line since that bad"i will say that its not always that easy.usually a customers car that is this bad,your lucky you got to sell them the rear brakes!now put on top of that $100 more!thats right,why that much you ask, line is $10.yeah,this is of course if you can just "wish" the line to be installed itself.the replacing of the line can cost easily as much as the whole brake job!now you may have to move other lines,that may break also and so on..the best rule of thumb,the less you have to take apart the better.work smarter,and you will work faster.nice video showing this simple little trick.been a tech for 25 years now and have dont this quite often in the past.not so much now with the advent of rear disc.
This video is a godsend. My brake lines aren't rusty but the nut was seized. As soon as I started to spin the cylinder, the but broke free, fortunately.
ended well, i wouldnt think twice about that, just change it if its that rusty, i find if you 'get by' the customer or yourself tends to forget about it till it pops. good info all round
Except it's not that simple. If one line is that bad then it is probable that all are, and while doing lines, you ought to do hoses, and suddenly la $150 repair turned into a $1150 repair. It's always best to try to save any parts possible and inform the customer, as it is their vehicle and their money and their choice.
Great idea! Critical thinking!! Love your videos and I would truly be at a loss without them bro! I been stayin dirty since I was 15 years old! Now 49 an accident has slowed me down... but I never give up!! Keep up the great work Eric!
...yeah, I had to re-do all the brake-lines on one side of the front of my '71 Super Beetle because of this issue. Unfortunately, it'd had a disc brake conversion...and needed the lines replaced anyway, but they did break on me in a similar manner.
Here in Iceland we deal with badly rusted parts on a daily basis. How I get over this problem is as simple as heating up the fitting. By heating it up, 9 times out if 10 it will come loose pretty easily. Most of the time the issue is not the break line corroding onto or into the fitting but the rubber sleeve that is fitted onto the factory brake line gets pushed into the fitting by the oxidation or corrosion underneath it.
Eric thank you for this video ever since I watched you use this trick to remove wheel cylinders this is how I do it all the time now I have learned so much and saved so much time and money from your videos I cannot thank you enough
I just replaced my whole brake line and wheel brake cylinder on the driver side front and rear because it was rusted inside the brake line so I replaced them along with brake wheel cylinder cause I know I will go through this trouble. Thank you for this video Eric. @EricTheCarGuy
Both of the front brake lines on my 71 olds rusted out to the point where they gushed. Coupla squirters. Got some parts store lines and bent them as close as I could to the ones that came out. Held my tongue just right and no issues. It’s not too hard don’t rear end some one! Lol.
Thank you Eric. If installing new wheel cylinder remove as Eric and put lots of penetrating oil on the brake fitting and remove piston in the wheel cylinder. Put lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting insert large screw driver threw cylinder and turn cylinder while holding the brake line. Lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting and it should turn but only turn in 1/8 - 1/4 turns and go back same amount till it rotates freely.
This could very well come in handy. Replacing the shoes and cylinders on my daughter's old 98 Protege tomorrow, it's pretty rusty as well being an Iowa car. Hopefully, I don't run into any problems.
Just a little heat even from a small propane torch has always worked for me. Also anti sieze between the line and flare nut and on the flare nut threads will prevent it from happening again.
Hey Eric looking though these comments you sure put up with a lot of crap from people who are mostly diy 'mechanics' . In your position I would probably just turn commenting off and make the whiners keep it to themselves. You give great information keep it up man.
Good video. This could save us when the brake job extends past closing time at the auto parts store. We might still make it to work the next day. Thanks.
I really thank you for your videos. They have helped us a ton. But this time I think that replacing that rusty line should have been the best solution. It will have a hole very soon and if it happens while driving, the driver might get into an accident if he or she panics. I'm saying this because I'm currently replacing a rusty brake line that I thought would not be a problem but now it has a hole on it.
I have dealt with a lot of that. When the brake line looks that bad ill heat that up by the nut with a torch. That almost always loosens it. Then I replace the line because its weak. It may hold but if someone hits the brake pedal hard that will bust the line
I put never seize on the threads. Then axel grease outside on the line right up against the nut. Can't rust. Been doing this foe 41 yrs. on my '65 F100. Works.
I blew the lines right out of my new old car. Scared the hell out of my passenger. Take care of your rusty brake lines fellas, you don't want that kind of adrenaline rush.
I had the brake cylinder /slave cylinder (wheel cylinder lol ;) fail on me braking at like 40 mph once as a young driver, instantly no brakes, had to use the handbrake to slow myself and very carefully drive to my destination. I later found out the handbrake was also only attached one side lol easily fixed on the roadside.
Shouldn't there be two independent parts of the brake system? Of course independent untill the fluid didn't leak out completely lol :) I mean that the brakes for left front and right rear should be independent from right front and left rear. This way when a line goes bye-bye, you still can stop your car. The brakes won't work for long, as there will be a massive fluid leak, but it will be enough for you to just stop on the side of the road safely. Two wheels of four braking is better than nothing I suppose ;)
If I just say that it's a fiero and its older than me, does that explain it? But yes, when I started replacing all the hard lines, the forward reservoir had a little fluid left in it. I'm guessing some parts may have seized. Well, new calipers and rotors all around is like $100 anyway so may as well do it all
did you use substandard Chinese parts?? had the same thing happen to me lucky me i was in the driveway unlucky me the bleader tried to get me in the face it was torqued down to 10 ft LBs after that time i decided to disk swap it with a USA based company parts because i was tired of rebuilding my no name R&R drums for the 3th time ( slow air leaks X 3 times from bad seals , a bad spring @ 40 mph locked up fL tire ) in one year with less than 5k miles on them, the oem where ok an i like them but they were used up and junk and 20 + years old so that wasn't a good option
Glad you mentioned the option to pull the line up further. I would be hesitant to trust it for any duration with that kind of corrosion. However I'm not in a part of the country where rust is a real problem.
I was ready to get my old dodge aspen inspected for MOT and as soon as i was about to leave my house, i pressed the brake and a large puddle appeared under the car.. The rusty crusty brake line exploded in half. Take care of your brake lines. Replace them when they're rusty and crusty.
I've always found that along with penetrating oil, I first tighten it a little, then go for loosening it. If it comes loose, great, if not then I rock the nut back and forth in small moves until it does. It the line isn't rusted so bad it breaks, they come right off.
Nightmare flashback to being under my 66 Dodge D200 for a month back in '86. Started on the rear line on the axle. Ended up redoing everything including the SINGLE chamber master cylinder. To go is good. To stop is better.
My local mechanic has replaced four brake lines on my F150. Prior to that the Ford dealer replaced all of them at once about 4-5 years prior. The explanation my mechanic gave was these lines were touching rust underneath already, causing them to rust out and fail again. Aren't there Stainless Steel brake lines available? If so my next vehicle I run into the ground will have all lines replaced with stainless.
Today: ETCG1 Brake Drum Pain & Misery Series, Part II. I too, have executed that same technique when extracting a wheel cylinder...with marginal success.
just a note when you replace brake lines with reg steel if you can get it its called red lead it a primer rust preventive that the navy uses on ships, paint that on your new brake lines and they will not rust, other than that use nico copper lines.
Great video, I had forgotten this technique. I’m in the middle of doing the infamous, dreaded 2007 Subaru rear hub bearing in Maine. I just realized I ordered the entire kit, the knuckle, hub and bearing, long bolt & bushing for the lateral arm and it comes with a new backing plate. I have to swap everything off the old backing plate, onto the included new backing plate. It’s sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub, can’t slide it over the hub. The rust is so bad the bolts for the wheel cylinders and ABS sensor are no longer octagon shaped. The parking brake cable is frozen also. So far no joy with the vice grips and some heat. I guess I’m going to have to press out the brand new hub from the new bearings….carefully, oh so carefully. NOT looking forward to this. (still waiting on the parts to arrive). Unless you have another method???
I just spent $1,000 on having a shop replacing all brake lines on my 03 chevy z71. Old lines were rusty and corroded and they ruptured and lost my brakes completely. Fun scary ride trying to get it back home. This is my frst and LAST Chevy i will ever have
I keep a roll of nicopp brake line at my shop just for situations as that. The peace of mind I get replacing it is far more valuable than reinstalling that old rusty line.
i just clamp the brake line nut with a teethed vice grip the hardest i can (it may deform and thats ok), then remove the vice grip and reclamp it 90º OFF.. after this second clamping dont force it or it may strip completely, just give it a hard-dry tap with your palm. it WILL ALWAYS unbolt no matter how crusty it is...Eric please try it you will not regret ... after this you may not be able to put the 10 or 11 mm wrench because the brake line nut is deformed but you can safely tight it with the vice grips again...done this a million times never had an issue....however if it is a customers car or if you are not sure about longevity or safety just replace the line...here we can have a line custom made for less than 10€
Absolutely agree on expected replacement of brake lines there in the Northeast if it's a vehicle one owns and is planning to keep. For car-flipping, the goal is to make the time and expense not be yours, but for car-keeping, the goal is to finish the job the first time so that it doesn't leave you, or a loved one, stranded, and so it doesn't require the same amount of time be spent taking it all apart again.
When doing brake repairs... Always replace rusted brake lines... both sides..😉 And main feeds from brake master cylinder if need be. No matter how big of a pain in the neck it is after you are done with your brake job spray them all with lubricant to prevent them from re-rusting as long as possible. And you can spray the threaded area joints every few months with WD-40. It's also a good idea to spray all of your bolts and nuts in the front end.... struts ..shocks.. tie rods and in the rear end.. shocks ...Springs... Etc to make future repairs easier if need be.
My 99 Dakota 5,9 rt , was hauling ass , got brake checked , lost brakes, Came to find 6 rust brake lines , I ordered all in one kit , that wasntvallin one , But what can I use to loosen if I have days in advance ? Will on or similar eventually help? I’m looking to replace 11 lines Saturday and was gonna start soaking today ... The cost to get them done instigated my diy , 1700$ to replace them in 2000$ truck , lines are 300$ But 14000 labor I almost died , and I get it a mans gotta eat,,,,, But I’m looking for any , “ watch out for this “ or a general trip . This was so helpful .. tyask you mr Eric
My rusty rear brake line on a civic blew while braking from 80 mph to a stop downhill. Shocked that its not fail safe system if on line leaks it doesn't lose all fluid and all brakes. My transmission hated me for the next 10 miles getting her home with engine braking. Please chaps always replace
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Good pointer for dealing with stick brake lines. I like how you closed the video. A brake line in that condition, it's just a matter of time before it develops a leak.
For those complaining that he didn't just replace the line right away, how about for the situation of having to remove a brake cylinder for a customer, a customer who does not have the money to replace both the cylinder and the line?
How about for the situation in which you go to the store and they have a replacement wheel cylinder for you, but will have to order the brake line, which won't be in for two more days, and you are stranded on the road, in another state?
Good tips, Eric. Thanks for addressing the need to replace the line all together, at the end of the video. I wish more guys had acknowledged that you took care of that.
I'd tell my customer that I cannot put that piece of crap back on your car. It's dangerous and I could be held liable and if you don't like it, take it down the street. It's only a few bucks. I rarely buy preformed lines and have become very good at bending and flaring my own.
Loads of people saying a new brake pipe isn't expensive but us mechanics aren't free, if a pipe snaps and a customer won't pay why should we be out of pocket. Eric's channel seems to have the most people trying to nitpick over his methods.
everybody's all butthurt but the fact of the matter is we dont live in a perfect world. this information would be useful to many people.
@@drummerboysmith968 --I wonder how many customers we would lose, talking to them like that....
@pakking Who you were quick to call an idiot may just not have the money to pay the extra hour of labor you were about to charge for the line. I have been in that very position. But you are absolutely correct in saying that you have the right to send that customer out of your shop. They would go down the road, and look for somebody willing to do what Eric just did, until they get the money to come back and fix the lines.
I have used Freeze off. Have not broke a line sense. Your advice on just replacing the line is spot on! The crap they spray on the roads in the winter just eats everything. I have started using Fluid Film on the underside of my cars.
Ive run into this situation many times, sometimes on my car sometimes not. One friend of mine was a real cheapskate and always took the least expensive way - least expensive for that moment until the line blew on an old single master cylinder system and he lost all braking, fortunately no traffic and he got it stopped with the parking break and downshifting. But Eric is right, replace any lines that are this badly rusted - if theyre rusted bad enough to be froze to the nut it wont be long before youre taking a white knuckle ride-lol
One of the best tips I've ever seen, and this seems to be pretty true, is if you can knock all the loose rust off the threads/where the bolt or nut meets the other metal surface, down in those cracks that rust and dirt create a lot of friction and sometimes that's why a nut or bolt is binding. I know it's not possible every time, but I know I've hit brake lines with a steel brush for a minute and got it nice and clean, then sprayed it with penetrating oil and it broke loose nicer than the other lines on the same vehicle where I just started twisting.
If you strip out the nut and you're truly SOL, you can also just rebuild the wheel cylinder in place. Pillage the new one and install the parts into the old body still bolted to the car.
This video saved my day when replaced rear brake cylinder on my 86 Fifth Avenue. Thank you Eric!
Eric. Just need to say thank you. Have been working on my wife's car for two weeks and ran into the last wheel cylinder, and was worried about twisting and snapping the line. I saw your vid and went duh. Thank you. It worked. Props to you from one backyard to another. Niccccccccce!
Brilliant, which is why I do it that way too. After I’ve removed the wheel cylinder, at that point I put a torch on the ferrel, heat it up and expand it, and it will break free of the line, pull it back, clean out the crud and your good to go.
How long do u torch it?
@abytc2023 it doesn’t take much, I use an oxy/acetylene torch, right on the ferrel, maybe only 10-15 seconds, it’s not going to turn red, but it will expand enough to break the rust bond. It will free up, pull it back and do a little cleaning. It’s so small it heats up quickly, I bet a propane torch would work too, just take a bit longer.
I can't begin to tell you how much this saved my ass on a customers car. I love learning a thing or too from the guys who've been doing this longer. Thanks Eric!
Used this trick for years, when people won't stump up the extra for new pipes. It's also useful when someone has previously fitted copper brake lines and the union is siezed, trying to undo the union will twist the pipe and eventually snap it.
Exactly!
This by far the easiest way to remove & replace your wheel cylinder without the head ache of twisted or broken brake lines ! Thank you very much, every step was a challenge but slowly the bolts came out & the removal was quite easy ! Best tip i have learned in a while !!!
Very clever way of getting some additional leverage and brute force to remove the fitting without rounding off the nut or breaking the line, even with a line wrench. Nice!
Umm, putting a wrench on something to get more leverage to turn it is a concept that's been around for two centuries... maybe it was clever the first time some guy made a wrench from scratch to do that but since then, it's pretty much what a wrench IS FOR.
Buy a 99-07 silverado and you will get really good at replacing brake lines!
Use nickel copper lines, you'll never have another problem.
Does the Tahoe from same years fall into this category too?
@@robs1852 unfortunately yes.
@@aodox theyre not legal some places
@@toddmccarter45 Well that's fucking stupid. Nothing wrong with them whatsoever.
I had same problem I used a small torch and put some heat on break line nut and helped break it loose with out damaging line i did it first before removing wheel cylinder clip hopefully this will help someone thanks for posting your video clip Everyone Have a Great Blessed Day
Eric I just want to say THANK YOU!!! This GD brake line is the last part holding me back from finishing this month long nightmare project that was never supposed to be this big of a pain in the ass. Idk what I expected though she is a 20 yo Wrangler and she's getting old and crabby like me 😆
for those people that say "replace the line since that bad"i will say that its not always that easy.usually a customers car that is this bad,your lucky you got to sell them the rear brakes!now put on top of that $100 more!thats right,why that much you ask, line is $10.yeah,this is of course if you can just "wish" the line to be installed itself.the replacing of the line can cost easily as much as the whole brake job!now you may have to move other lines,that may break also and so on..the best rule of thumb,the less you have to take apart the better.work smarter,and you will work faster.nice video showing this simple little trick.been a tech for 25 years now and have dont this quite often in the past.not so much now with the advent of rear disc.
This video is a godsend. My brake lines aren't rusty but the nut was seized. As soon as I started to spin the cylinder, the but broke free, fortunately.
ended well, i wouldnt think twice about that, just change it if its that rusty, i find if you 'get by' the customer or yourself tends to forget about it till it pops.
good info all round
Except it's not that simple. If one line is that bad then it is probable that all are, and while doing lines, you ought to do hoses, and suddenly la $150 repair turned into a $1150 repair. It's always best to try to save any parts possible and inform the customer, as it is their vehicle and their money and their choice.
Great idea! Critical thinking!! Love your videos and I would truly be at a loss without them bro! I been stayin dirty since I was 15 years old! Now 49 an accident has slowed me down... but I never give up!! Keep up the great work Eric!
Good advice on how to avoid turning your brake line into a break line.
AYOOOOOOOOOO
Very punny...haha
I think we need to pump the brakes on your puns!
...yeah, I had to re-do all the brake-lines on one side of the front of my '71 Super Beetle because of this issue. Unfortunately, it'd had a disc brake conversion...and needed the lines replaced anyway, but they did break on me in a similar manner.
perfect info, went ahead and ordered stainless lines to replace all of them but for the time being it works well.
Here in Iceland we deal with badly rusted parts on a daily basis. How I get over this problem is as simple as heating up the fitting. By heating it up, 9 times out if 10 it will come loose pretty easily. Most of the time the issue is not the break line corroding onto or into the fitting but the rubber sleeve that is fitted onto the factory brake line gets pushed into the fitting by the oxidation or corrosion underneath it.
How long do u apply a torch?
I'm dealing with this exact problem on my rusty volvo. Thx for the info, and hello from Dayton ohio!
Eric thank you for this video ever since I watched you use this trick to remove wheel cylinders this is how I do it all the time now I have learned so much and saved so much time and money from your videos I cannot thank you enough
Thanks Eric. Loving theses short snippets of mechanical wisdom. 👍👍
I just replaced my whole brake line and wheel brake cylinder on the driver side front and rear because it was rusted inside the brake line so I replaced them along with brake wheel cylinder cause I know I will go through this trouble. Thank you for this video Eric. @EricTheCarGuy
Your a genius etcg! I actually thought about attempting this but didn't know if it would work
Both of the front brake lines on my 71 olds rusted out to the point where they gushed. Coupla squirters. Got some parts store lines and bent them as close as I could to the ones that came out. Held my tongue just right and no issues. It’s not too hard don’t rear end some one! Lol.
Awesome tip Eric. I'd replace it anyway but that will get you to the parts store again
Thank you Eric. If installing new wheel cylinder remove as Eric and put lots of penetrating oil on the brake fitting and remove piston in the wheel cylinder. Put lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting insert large screw driver threw cylinder and turn cylinder while holding the brake line. Lots of penetrating oil on brake fitting and it should turn but only turn in 1/8 - 1/4 turns and go back same amount till it rotates freely.
The good old type of videos 👍👍👍
This could very well come in handy. Replacing the shoes and cylinders on my daughter's old 98 Protege tomorrow, it's pretty rusty as well being an Iowa car. Hopefully, I don't run into any problems.
Just a little heat even from a small propane torch has always worked for me. Also anti sieze between the line and flare nut and on the flare nut threads will prevent it from happening again.
How long do u heat it?
Hey Eric looking though these comments you sure put up with a lot of crap from people who are mostly diy 'mechanics' . In your position I would probably just turn commenting off and make the whiners keep it to themselves. You give great information keep it up man.
Good video. This could save us when the brake job extends past closing time at the auto parts store. We might still make it to work the next day. Thanks.
I really thank you for your videos. They have helped us a ton. But this time I think that replacing that rusty line should have been the best solution. It will have a hole very soon and if it happens while driving, the driver might get into an accident if he or she panics. I'm saying this because I'm currently replacing a rusty brake line that I thought would not be a problem but now it has a hole on it.
I was watching that; looking at the crusty brake line and thinking "oh man just replace it for the sake of it." I'm glad I kept watching.
I'm glad you did to. Thank you.
I'll admit I was rather skeptical part way through the video about following this advice, but the ending was great! Thanks for the video.
THANK GOD you changed that brake line! I think you trigger my OCD on purpose -- right.there.at.the.end.
Nobody cares about ur ocd idiot
@@ramtrucks721 Apparently you did enough to comment on it LOL
I have dealt with a lot of that. When the brake line looks that bad ill heat that up by the nut with a torch. That almost always loosens it. Then I replace the line because its weak. It may hold but if someone hits the brake pedal hard that will bust the line
I am about to change the rusty cylinders in an old truck, I am glad I watched this as I will first gather new rear brake lines before I start lol
I put never seize on the threads. Then axel grease outside on the line right up against the nut. Can't rust. Been doing this foe 41 yrs. on my '65 F100. Works.
I blew the lines right out of my new old car. Scared the hell out of my passenger. Take care of your rusty brake lines fellas, you don't want that kind of adrenaline rush.
I had the brake cylinder /slave cylinder (wheel cylinder lol ;) fail on me braking at like 40 mph once as a young driver, instantly no brakes, had to use the handbrake to slow myself and very carefully drive to my destination. I later found out the handbrake was also only attached one side lol easily fixed on the roadside.
Shouldn't there be two independent parts of the brake system? Of course independent untill the fluid didn't leak out completely lol :) I mean that the brakes for left front and right rear should be independent from right front and left rear. This way when a line goes bye-bye, you still can stop your car. The brakes won't work for long, as there will be a massive fluid leak, but it will be enough for you to just stop on the side of the road safely. Two wheels of four braking is better than nothing I suppose ;)
If I just say that it's a fiero and its older than me, does that explain it? But yes, when I started replacing all the hard lines, the forward reservoir had a little fluid left in it. I'm guessing some parts may have seized. Well, new calipers and rotors all around is like $100 anyway so may as well do it all
did you use substandard Chinese parts?? had the same thing happen to me lucky me i was in the driveway unlucky me the bleader tried to get me in the face it was torqued down to 10 ft LBs after that time i decided to disk swap it with a USA based company parts because i was tired of rebuilding my no name R&R drums for the 3th time ( slow air leaks X 3 times from bad seals , a bad spring @ 40 mph locked up fL tire ) in one year with less than 5k miles on them, the oem where ok an i like them but they were used up and junk and 20 + years old so that wasn't a good option
@@richardprice5978 probably original equipment from 34 years ago, they were so gone from rust. I was literally driving it home from having bought it.
Thank you again Eric the car guy for helping us
Glad you mentioned the option to pull the line up further. I would be hesitant to trust it for any duration with that kind of corrosion. However I'm not in a part of the country where rust is a real problem.
I was ready to get my old dodge aspen inspected for MOT and as soon as i was about to leave my house, i pressed the brake and a large puddle appeared under the car.. The rusty crusty brake line exploded in half.
Take care of your brake lines. Replace them when they're rusty and crusty.
Thank you Eric. God bless you all.
A great tip. Not having to bend a new line is a time saver also.
I've always found that along with penetrating oil, I first tighten it a little, then go for loosening it. If it comes loose, great, if not then I rock the nut back and forth in small moves until it does. It the line isn't rusted so bad it breaks, they come right off.
Thank you sir.. very helpful for this girl whom is figuring it out as she goes along
Good job Eric, very informative and intuitive.
1962 chrysler rusty break lines thank you for this tip , helpful
You do realize that those thumbs down are from people saying "NOW HE TELLS ME", LOL! Great tip Eric!
Excellent tip to remove the wheel cylinder first snd then remove the brake line next. Road salt sucks!
Youre doing the lord's work, my friend. Thank you so much. I was losing my mind trying to figure this out.
Good answer for one of those "Sunday night, parts store is closed, have to go to work tomorrow" situations.
Exactly!
First time I seen that done, thanks Eric thats good information, keep em coming.
Nightmare flashback to being under my 66 Dodge D200 for a month back in '86. Started on the rear line on the axle. Ended up redoing everything including the SINGLE chamber master cylinder. To go is good. To stop is better.
My local mechanic has replaced four brake lines on my F150. Prior to that the Ford dealer replaced all of them at once about 4-5 years prior. The explanation my mechanic gave was these lines were touching rust underneath already, causing them to rust out and fail again. Aren't there Stainless Steel brake lines available? If so my next vehicle I run into the ground will have all lines replaced with stainless.
I have to replace the rear brakes together with the cylinder of my 93 escort . and your tutorial is good ,, thanks for sharing
Ugh! That northeast salt horror would make me wanna fly a balloon to work and back. Untenable.
Nicely done, Eric the car dude.
I used vice grips everytime. Works a treat
Your son is going to like that civic. It’s pretty nice for an old one.
In my opinion it's a great way to temporarily fix car and go to parts store for new break lines.
vampirwrr fold the rusty line over and pinch close with vice grips. Drive to store to get enough materials to fix correctly the 1st time.
Today: ETCG1 Brake Drum Pain & Misery Series, Part II.
I too, have executed that same technique when extracting a wheel cylinder...with marginal success.
Thanks for the tip Eric.I got a wheel cylinder sticking on my van.
just a note when you replace brake lines with reg steel if you can get it its called red lead it a primer rust preventive that the navy uses on ships, paint that on your new brake lines and they will not rust, other than that use nico copper lines.
Thank you for your video.
I just have same issue today ... Will update you if I can make it.
Thank you again and have a nice day.
Made me feel like a genius thanks again brother!
I would have saved the stress and went straight to the torch! I love the heat wrench 😎
Eric, nice trick, love your videos and sense of humor.
Nice, I have to do my brakes and I think this trick will come in handy. Thanks Eric!
This video saved my life
Great video, I had forgotten this technique.
I’m in the middle of doing the infamous, dreaded 2007 Subaru rear hub bearing in Maine.
I just realized I ordered the entire kit, the knuckle, hub and bearing, long bolt & bushing for the lateral arm and it comes with a new backing plate.
I have to swap everything off the old backing plate, onto the included new backing plate. It’s sandwiched between the knuckle and the hub, can’t slide it over the hub.
The rust is so bad the bolts for the wheel cylinders and ABS sensor are no longer octagon shaped. The parking brake cable is frozen also. So far no joy with the vice grips and some heat.
I guess I’m going to have to press out the brand new hub from the new bearings….carefully, oh so carefully. NOT looking forward to this. (still waiting on the parts to arrive).
Unless you have another method???
I just spent $1,000 on having a shop replacing all brake lines on my 03 chevy z71. Old lines were rusty and corroded and they ruptured and lost my brakes completely. Fun scary ride trying to get it back home. This is my frst and LAST Chevy i will ever have
Glad to have found this one !!! Thank you Eric . And now I go and give it a try ))
The tongue holding is crucial to reconnecting.
I keep a roll of nicopp brake line at my shop just for situations as that. The peace of mind I get replacing it is far more valuable than reinstalling that old rusty line.
Eric, your videos are so helpful for when I have to work on my 96 civic. Thanks man and I'll stay dirty
i just clamp the brake line nut with a teethed vice grip the hardest i can (it may deform and thats ok), then remove the vice grip and reclamp it 90º OFF.. after this second clamping dont force it or it may strip completely, just give it a hard-dry tap with your palm. it WILL ALWAYS unbolt no matter how crusty it is...Eric please try it you will not regret ... after this you may not be able to put the 10 or 11 mm wrench because the brake line nut is deformed but you can safely tight it with the vice grips again...done this a million times never had an issue....however if it is a customers car or if you are not sure about longevity or safety just replace the line...here we can have a line custom made for less than 10€
Absolutely agree on expected replacement of brake lines there in the Northeast if it's a vehicle one owns and is planning to keep. For car-flipping, the goal is to make the time and expense not be yours, but for car-keeping, the goal is to finish the job the first time so that it doesn't leave you, or a loved one, stranded, and so it doesn't require the same amount of time be spent taking it all apart again.
When doing brake repairs...
Always replace rusted brake lines... both sides..😉
And main feeds from brake master cylinder if need be.
No matter how big of a pain in the neck it is after you are done with your brake job spray them all with lubricant to prevent them from re-rusting as long as possible.
And you can spray the threaded area joints every few months with WD-40.
It's also a good idea to spray all of your bolts and nuts in the front end.... struts ..shocks.. tie rods and in the rear end.. shocks ...Springs... Etc to make future repairs easier if need be.
Where i live we dip bolts into spent motor oil before reassambly.
I saw this tip in a older video of the ETCG.
+1 Was gonna say, it seems like Eric already told us this trick a few years ago.
Awesome job. I've done this but like you said it's just better to replace the line. Why bleed the brakes twice? Thanks for the video.
Super useful in a pinch!!! Thanks, Eric!
Saved my day today. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
My 99 Dakota 5,9 rt , was hauling ass , got brake checked , lost brakes, Came to find 6 rust brake lines , I ordered all in one kit , that wasntvallin one , But what can I use to loosen if I have days in advance ? Will on or similar eventually help? I’m looking to replace 11 lines Saturday and was gonna start soaking today ...
The cost to get them done instigated my diy , 1700$ to replace them in 2000$ truck , lines are 300$ But 14000 labor I almost died , and I get it a mans gotta eat,,,,, But I’m looking for any , “ watch out for this “ or a general trip . This was so helpful .. tyask you mr Eric
Hey I did this but the bolt holes don't line up now any ideas when twisting the new ones on?
Wow this idea is amazing I never thought about that. Thanks Eric. 👍
You're the man Eric
IRS always the simplest answer that everyone over looks lol great tip
Great idea. Every days a school day
Cheers eric. Very useful. I had a similar issue on a good condition and fairly new copper line so its not always the rusty ones.
Yes, I wish more people knew that.
Great tip !!! ......
My rusty rear brake line on a civic blew while braking from 80 mph to a stop downhill. Shocked that its not fail safe system if on line leaks it doesn't lose all fluid and all brakes. My transmission hated me for the next 10 miles getting her home with engine braking. Please chaps always replace
Eric the brake man.... any other motoring info check out south main auto... this guy is seriously good
With winter coming up I was wondering your thoughts on undercoating and the different kinds. Might make for a short ETCG1 video.