Thank you for your video. For those who are wondering how to adjust the screws to synchronize the carburetors. The little philip head screw with the 7mm lock nut is the first one you do to synchronize the idle system. It's located on the top carburetor, just ahead of the top throttle cable adjustment. Once idle sync is done, then be processed the the top throttle cable adjustment. Rev motor up to about half throttle and sycn. That's pretty much all you have to do. There is no need to touch any other cable adjustments.
I like your honest, straight forward approach. Also, I have said the same thing about my 1400 Intruder. Looks cool, but they made it a ball buster to work on. After a while though, you will be able to pull and replace both carbs in nothing flat. Great bikes, be careful: arm-lengthening torque. Mind: Electrics, especially charging circuit. Keep contacts clean. Factory clutch doesn't last if you enjoy yourself too much. Put in a Barnett Clutch. I also put in a Dynatech 3000 adjustable ignition module. Money well spent. Thanks for the video
Yea on my 91 intruder the clutch is slipping pretty bad now I definitely will be putting a Barnett in it. They are really cool old bikes though I like them. Thanks Marcel!
Thankfully I stumbled onto your video. I've been trying to figure out exactly where to hook up the vacuum lines for a couple of days. Every video, diagram, photo and article has been vague about the exact location. I'm not a mechanic and saying, "it hooks up behind the horn" does not help. So, thanks for the info.
Thanks for this Curtis, I've just removed the carbs on my '94 model, rebuilt them with a carb kit and put them back on, what a nightmare ! I guess the throttle cables need to pull the same so each carb vacuums at the same level at the same time and the idle is set with the sync cable that joins both carbs. So much easier to do on my Vmax 1200 where all adjusment screws are clear to access, this is going to shred my head as I now have to remove some things again to set the air mixture screws that were turned out three time instead of the manuals 2 for the rear and 2.3 for the front, but I'll get there, cheers !
Man Intruders are sweet bikes But accessing the carbs is a nightmare. I still love them though, my 87 pulls harder and has more top speed than my 91. It seems the newer they are the weaker they get. Still cool old bikes though.
Dude! I have the same gauge as you. I checked sync last night and it was waaaaay off. Turns out my gauges aren't calibrated. Thank you for taking the time to show us. I'm going to sync this based boy after work tomorrow, I'll report back with my results.
from a closed butterfly engine not running even out cable pull then with engine running at idle set the idle mixture screw until maximum and balanced vacuum readings on both gauges. Thats your target for even power both cylinders.
How did you get the horn bolts off?! One of the bolts is easy but the other one is right next to the carb and I can't get a wrench in there to unbolt. Cursing the Suzuki engineer!
Hello Chris. XMT Moto batwing fairing off of amazon. They do not come with any sort of mounting brackets so you have to fabricate your own mounting system. But I think I only paid $140 CAD for the fairing.
It's the XMT moto batwing fairing off of amazon, I have a vid of me mounting that one and a more recent vid of mt mounting another one I did the more recent one a bit differently. There just cheap plastic but look good on the bike and make a big difference on the highway. Thanks!
Thank you for your video. For those who are wondering how to adjust the screws to synchronize the carburetors. The little philip head screw with the 7mm lock nut is the first one you do to synchronize the idle system. It's located on the top carburetor, just ahead of the top throttle cable adjustment. Once idle sync is done, then be processed the the top throttle cable adjustment. Rev motor up to about half throttle and sycn. That's pretty much all you have to do. There is no need to touch any other cable adjustments.
I like your honest, straight forward approach. Also, I have said the same thing about my 1400 Intruder. Looks cool, but they made it a ball buster to work on. After a while though, you will be able to pull and replace both carbs in nothing flat. Great bikes, be careful: arm-lengthening torque. Mind: Electrics, especially charging circuit. Keep contacts clean. Factory clutch doesn't last if you enjoy yourself too much. Put in a Barnett Clutch. I also put in a Dynatech 3000 adjustable ignition module. Money well spent. Thanks for the video
Yea on my 91 intruder the clutch is slipping pretty bad now I definitely will be putting a Barnett in it. They are really cool old bikes though I like them. Thanks Marcel!
Thankfully I stumbled onto your video. I've been trying to figure out exactly where to hook up the vacuum lines for a couple of days. Every video, diagram, photo and article has been vague about the exact location. I'm not a mechanic and saying, "it hooks up behind the horn" does not help. So, thanks for the info.
Thanks for this Curtis, I've just removed the carbs on my '94 model, rebuilt them with a carb kit and put them back on, what a nightmare !
I guess the throttle cables need to pull the same so each carb vacuums at the same level at the same time and the idle is set with the sync cable that joins both carbs.
So much easier to do on my Vmax 1200 where all adjusment screws are clear to access, this is going to shred my head as I now have to remove some things again to set the air mixture screws that were turned out three time instead of the manuals 2 for the rear and 2.3 for the front, but I'll get there, cheers !
Man Intruders are sweet bikes But accessing the carbs is a nightmare. I still love them though, my 87 pulls harder and has more top speed than my 91. It seems the newer they are the weaker they get. Still cool old bikes though.
When adjusting for balanced idle mixture, try to achieve maximum vacuum for each carb then slightly adjust one or the other carb to match reading.
Dude! I have the same gauge as you. I checked sync last night and it was waaaaay off. Turns out my gauges aren't calibrated. Thank you for taking the time to show us. I'm going to sync this based boy after work tomorrow, I'll report back with my results.
Cool man! I am glad I could help. You'll get er figured out I'm sure. Thanks Mason!
from a closed butterfly engine not running even out cable pull then with engine running at idle set the idle mixture screw until maximum and balanced vacuum readings on both gauges.
Thats your target for even power both cylinders.
How did you get the horn bolts off?! One of the bolts is easy but the other one is right next to the carb and I can't get a wrench in there to unbolt. Cursing the Suzuki engineer!
Well 5 years ago but im going to try it on 2024
Sweet, thanks. Very helpful indeed.
I'm glad I could help you! Thanks!
I like the cowl. What make and model?
Hello Chris. XMT Moto batwing fairing off of amazon. They do not come with any sort of mounting brackets so you have to fabricate your own mounting system. But I think I only paid $140 CAD for the fairing.
What carb sync tool are you using ?
Could you tell me what you have your a/f pilot screws set at??? 2 turns out? I have a 1400 and am trying to fine tune. Thanks
Hello Tyler. I can't remember right off hand It's been so long since I messed with it. Sorry I couldn't be of help.
According to the service manual, both of the air/fuel pilot screws are backed out one and three quarter turns from lightly seated.
@@bernardduggan4452 Thank you Bernard!
Where did that front windscreen come from?
Amazon
Please send me the link to those highway pegs!
Hey Josh sorry man the pegs came on the bike I don't know anything about them.
Where’d you get yer fairing
It's the XMT moto batwing fairing off of amazon, I have a vid of me mounting that one and a more recent vid of mt mounting another one I did the more recent one a bit differently. There just cheap plastic but look good on the bike and make a big difference on the highway. Thanks!
9:18 lol