EGR Valve Replacement on a 2009 Jeep Wrangler.
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Troubleshooting and diagnosing a bad EGR Valve and replacement on a 2009 Jeep Wrangler with a 3.8L engine.
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After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way.
This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence.
The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny.
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Use a good worklight for this job.
1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover.
2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work.
3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon.
4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side.
5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket).
6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later).
7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny).
8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me).
9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath).
10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above).
11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough.
12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
I will pin this at the top for anyone else doing this job. Thank you for sharing your experience.
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I have a 2007 JK with the 3.8L. Learned a lot from this, thanks.
Great job getting that EGR out!!
Used my craftsman 1/4 drive ratchet and craftsman 10MM socket. Had to grind over a 1/4 inch off of the socket. It worked
Thanks for positing the link as well! They want 3x as much at the local stores for the same Doorman valve 💯
Looks like fun. Thanks for the video.
Thank you good job😮
Why not just take the back 2 off, then loosen the pipe from the top and pull the pipe and valve out to clean the pipe out too
That would be a possibility.
Can you send me the link to the rivet kit, please
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@@737mechanic thanks very much!!
Thank you for showing the nitty gritty of every single step, I'm not the most mechanically inclined so showing how to do things some mechanics might think nothing of is really helpful. Still not looking forward to doing this, if this gave you trouble it will be hell for me lol. Do I need an extra jack stand for this or will the single jack in the Jeep be good?
Single will be fine.
I can’t get my connector off… I accidentally broke the red thing but oh man how the hell did yours come off so easily?! I’ve been trying for 2 hours!
Why not try taking the front tube off, spray in there with brake clean or maf cleaner and reconnect and see if that solves it ?
That would be worth a try, sometimes little tricks like that work.
@@737mechanic I need to do mine too, waiting for the part to arrive. I ordered the Crown brand part, was $110 or so, I just don’t trust those $40 Amazon parts, and don’t want to spend $240 on the OEM part. I will clean and save the one I take off, just in case. I figured Crown, carried by most Jeep parts resellers should be decent, Omix on backorder.
The video looks really well done however the jerky camera nauseated me so badly that I had to turn it off.
Can't you give some care towards holding the camera still and just focusing on the job , .