"What most people don't know is that most of the noise creeps out where ever you see light" Not true. I turned off the light in the hallway so I did not see any light through the gaps. At first there was indeed silence , but then I heard a loud bang and cursing when my wife fell down the stairs.
That is because the sound was caused by an object hitting the floor - a part of the house - causing the soundwaves to travel through the floor instead of it being airbourn. Heavy objects hitting the floor causes a loud low frequancy thud, and those are very hard to block or absord, in this case the object is a women.
11:36 Yo ok, so BEFORE you do this, please for the love of god TURN OFF THE BREAKER to that outlet/switch before even taking the cover plate off, I cannot stress this enough and I hope this comment is seen. There is some serious power going through there and there are exposed screw terminals on both the outlet and the switch that with the slightest movement can totally shock the hell out of you. *SHUT OFF THE BREAKER BEFORE MESSING WITH ELECTRICITY* (Also another suggestion is when the power is off and only after the power is off, wrap the inner part of the outlet with electrical tape.)
Be careful with sealing bedroom doors. Most rooms do not have a return air duct, therefore the air in that room won't be able to circulate now which will cause the CO2 levels to increase dramatically which isn't healthy as well heating and cooling that room will now be inefficient.
Yup... this is why I installed a balanced system in my home. Basically a supply and return duct in every room (except bathrooms, they only get supplys and)..
@@kathklphotography Not really.. Operable windows are only required by code in bedroom as a means of egress (USA).. If I could, I would put picture windows (non operable) in every room since you do not need to, nor should you open them to put unconditioned air into your home.. That is why we have these things called ERVs...
one of the reasons I bought a ranch home is how much easier it is to sound proof and wire things with an attic above and basement below, put in extra insulation on the interior walls myself during construction.
As someone who has studied noise and sound. So glad to see you mention the 3dB part and then the 10dB part as well. Most folk don't mention this or understand it.
I just recently had to sound proof my new apartment which is in a VERY old building. I am lucky to have a SOLID wood front door. The door was nice and thick, but also was not sealed..... like.... at all. I tried multiple kinds of weather stripping, I had used the kind you used in this video in the past and it worked well enough But this apartment led me to a new find. I used Brush weather stripping on both the door frame, and the edge of the door in such a way that when the door closed they lined up, creating a pretty strong seal. This alone made more difference than anything I had tried before, I am not sure if I could do a front door on a 20 dollar budget in the US, but just something to consider. I also placed another kind of rubber weather stripping on the inside of the door that's name I do not know, and this made the seal strong enough I was able to turn my Kanto Yu2s up to near max volume while facing the door, without being able to hear them from the other side. Side note on the bookshelf tip - I once used a staple gun to put moving blankets on the back of a Billy bookcase that was against the wall of a particularly noisy neighbor. Worked wonders. Now that I am more financial stable (I know not as relevant to this video) I tend to staple gun Mass loaded Vinyl to the back of a book case and then put a layer of rockwool between the bookcase and the wall. I have had a live band on the other side of a wall I did that to and barely could hear it.
I have just found through a lot of experimentation that it is the most effective way to cut all frequencies, this is also assuming you have books on the book shelf. I have tried both "building a fake wall full of rockwool, and just stacks of mass loaded Vinyl. Both helped for sure. But combing the 2 has made it so my neighbor has had band practice on the other side of the wall without me noticing.
There are foam pad/sheets that simply go between the face-plate & the outlet. Low cost, easy to place. If you caulk around the inner outlet, it makes a mess later when outlets need replaced, or if wires need tightened.
When putting foam around a door frame, on the side where there are hinges, you should put the foam on the frame, not on the door stop. That way the edge of the door isn't going to scrap it off.
Should put the weather stripping towards the side of the wall instead on the side of the frame where the door is attached. Putting it the way it is in this video the door will start to scrape away the stripping each time you close the door.
FLOORS: upstairs, & especially in hallways, can place interlocking foam squares-leave plain, or, lay rug over them. This buffers footsteps reaching downstairs rooms.
a great tip i read on some 3m tape instructions is to wipe with isopropal alcohol before applying it. positive i've never had tape/adhesive come lose again, negative i've damaged the surface of everything i've used tape/adhesive on as the surface wants to give before the tape ^^" should be fine on painted wood but beware of ikea level stuff :P just ordered a 1L bottle from amazon and this will probably last me a lifetime :P
This is great! Interestingly, most of this is exactly what we recommend for affordable energy efficiency improvements like air sealing and insulation after doing energy audits. Mainly when the room is connected to exterior spaces though like exterior walls, attics, crawlspace, etc.
basically, if you have a air handling unit, that's tasked with circulating air but requires air flow through the door, then don't slide that thing in. Not sure, why you'd ever need airflow under the door to circulate air through the home though.
I like to study in peace but i cannot do so because there is a cutout in my wall (brick wall) which is an open window and a lot of sound disturbances come through it. I want to block the sounds that come from outside, what should i do? I cannot really fill it with bricks cause there's not enough space to fit them because of the window grill which is built in the wall. Its like a thick window grill that is fixed in the cement and thus i cannot put bricks in the cutout.
I mean you could make a thick concrete, mount wood on both sides of the wall and fill with said thick concrete, or get real good at busting the bricks into just the right shapes
Could u make a similar video on houses made from concrete ceiling,floors, plastered brick walls and single peice solid wooden doors and windows, some doors which are about 7 feet wide and are sliding glass doors on a aluminum frame?
Oversized Moving blankets sewed on curtains help, doors can use sonopan, accoustic panels and wheaterstrip. rubber or persian rugs,. Canvas paintings help also...
A foam surface ABSORBS soundwaves whereas cork is a dense matter that BLOCKS sound, so if you are looking for a BARRIER then you would be looking for the cork.
You will only need to sound proof the surface that has another room behind it. This is beacuse of a little thing called resonance, TL:DR sounds in rooms sounds are louder and more condensed then sounds from outside your house!
Hey, Thanks for the great information. I feel like you should be using pink noise as your control sound. It's also royalty free lol. Keep up the great work.
I made my own DIY decoupling system using old tires and a hole saw, latex tubing and rubber washers. I can go into more detail if you would ever want to do a video on DIY decoupling one day.
@@danieli708 Basically you are using all these rubber products so that your 2x2 studs that you mount your drywall to are decoupled from the main building structure, which is any existing wall of some sort. Cut a bunch of rubber circles out of the old tires with a hole saw. You can only use a certain point on the sidewall of the tire since the tread part of the tire has steel cable everywhere. These are the "mounting pads" which will get sandwiched between your decoupled 2x2 and the building structure. Alternatively you can just skip this step and buy some rubber vibration mounting pads but those are pretty expensive. Way more expensive than they should be for just a little piece of rubber. Next take your 2x2s and drill a few 1 1/4" holes halfway through them. Then drill a 3/8" hole all the way through the 2x2s in the center of those 1 1/4" holes. These will be the mounting points at which you attach you decoupled 2x2 to the building structure. If your walls are 8ft high, drill 4 total, if 6ft high drill 3 total, etc. space them about 2ft apart. Next cut a bit of latex tubing and put it in the 3/8" holes you drilled. this will prevent the shaft of the screw from directly touching the 2x2 and transferring vibration from the structure to the 2x2, since when you drive the screw into the building structure to mount the 2x2, the screw couples to the structure. A pretty standard and common size of latex tubing is 3/8" outside diameter and 1/4" inside diameter, so it should wedge into the 3/8" hole perfectly. If you chose to glue them in, use a flexible adhesive like silicone, and not a hard one like wood glue or super glue. You also have to put 2 small (1"diameter) rubber washers at the bottom of the 1 1/4" hole and a steel washer on top of that. this step will make it so that when the screw clamps down on the 2x2, it is not directly touching the 2x2, it is only touching the rubber washer. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS, DO NOT MAKE THEM TOO TIGHT, or you will squeeze the hell out of your rubber and vibrations will travel through the rubber more easily. And since you drilled halfway through the 2x2 with the 1 1/4" hole, any drywall you mount on top of the 2x2 will not be touching the screw head. So now you have a mounting surface for drywall which is decoupled from the building structure. And you can add things like Mass loaded vinyl, 2 layers of drywall and acoustic sealant to this decoupled layer to add mass for even further sound reduction.
I did it with materials I got for free. There is nothing that absorbs sound better - or actually any waves, including radio and wireless, lol 😂 It is a veeeery old recipe: clay-straw mix, usually mixed 50:50 (volume, not weight). As a finish I buy clay plaster and lime colour, which I can dye with pigments. The clay straw mix needs a rough surface to hold on to. Traditionally it was done with hazel branches cut in half and nailed on the wood. The modern choice is reed. Another side effect of this insulation: it insulates against cold only moderately (wood fiber is stronger hete) but is very good against heat. The resulting wall can't beat loads, but thats what the wood frame is for. Ah... I nearly forgot: it preserves the wood the clay is in contact with, as long as there is no permanent moisture damage. But moisture is always visible in clay walls! Our doors and windows are sound proof already, not sure why that is a problem in the USA - maybe too cheap? 😅
Hi, good video, hopefully you can help with my question, i have a wooden sauna thats made in the basement, and i wanna make that into a drum room. i was thinking of making some panels out of a board with rock wool in between and foam panels on top and covering the whole room with that including the ceiling, room aint that big about 95 inch length, 73 width. What are your thoughts?
Can you please do a video on sliding glass doors? I think that's my issue is the noise from the sliding door off of my balcony (that faces the freeway).
@@dinh5532 I guess I should rephrase that.. Dense, they need to be dense.. A three layer approach works well.. Thick textile outside to match whatever decor you have, flexible mass vinyl inner core and another thick textile 3rd layer. it should be touching the walls around the slider to be effective as the sound will just go around it. I have also seen someone make acoustic panels that fit tight to the door inside the frame and they can be removed when not in use or when you want to use the door.
Great video and - Wow! Wouldn't have thought the door seal would make such a big difference, even though it's plastic! I think it has to be flexible though, like green glue. Why did you use acoustic seal on the lamp outlet, but not on windows, though?
I work nights, live in an apartment with my cousin and his gf. Love them to death and wouldnt want to be anywhere else... but.. 10 years in the army has destroyed my sleeping -_- every little aound will keep me awake, and working nights obviously makes that much harder! I need help!!! Lol im gonna follow a lot of whats in this video, but if anyone has any other advice or tips id greatly appreciate it! Thanks guys!
Damn bro, that depends on where the sounds coming from. I've been modifying my door: Screw on card board on one side and on the other, I add a layer of glass wool and covered it with a blackout curtain. Plenty of soundproofing for under $100 bucks.
Traditional soundproofing won't block RFID and cell tower noise since these are electromagnetic waves, not sound. To reduce RF noise, use RF shielding paint, fabrics, or window films, or consider creating a Faraday cage by using metal mesh or foil in the walls. These materials block the signals effectively.
@@soundproofguide So if I have my homes exterior painted black with the shielding paint and then brought back to the current color it would work? I have metal roll downs and hurricane glass with three panels so I have no Idea what will work. If you could be so kind please send me links to the paints to buy. Thank you.
That would depend on if the carpet extends to underneath the door or it doesn't. If it does then It soundproofs itself. If it doesn't go under the door, Then you can try gluing a sweep underneath it.
Plz! @soundproofguide do a sliding glass door plz! Where I live the back pool area is facing a road and motorcycle and tuned cars love speeding through there plz I'm renting and I can't get a better sliding door plz save my Marriage 😂
Sliding doors already are pretty good at preventing noise from coming in or out. If you are hearing noise coming through the door then there is a high chance that it is not being closed properly, preventing a seal and thus noise coming through. This means that there is something wrong with the slidding door as a whole - has somehting misaligned or disloged -and I recommend that you get someone to check on it.
Much easier and free option... The source of the sound you are using to test just turn it down. BAM! Noise reduced and didn't even have to go to the store!
32 minutes of pure nonsense lol all this stuff does very little to nothing, is a waste of time and money, if you're renting you pretty much fuked, poor people can't have privacy and quietness, fact of life, time to become rich fellas lol
That is what soundproofing is. Complete cessation of sound would require complete cessation of vibrations passing through material - which does not exist.
It's funny that you americans live in huts instead of actual houses and you need DIY your living space after it was 'built' to reach a level which should be the bare minimum.
Average US adult reads at a 7th grade level. The more recognizable the word, the more likely his video will be watched. I agree with you on the verbiage, but the sad truth is that accuracy is not valued as much as playing to the emotion behind the issue. He's just playing to what works best for SEO. Can you blame him?
What can I do to sound proof my ceiling? I have annoying nuisance neighbors upstairs he acts more like an animal they have no respect or consideration for us. I don’t have any problems with walking. I have a problem with the moron doing big loud home projects late at night. He obviously doesn’t work, he sleeps all day and stays up all night doing home projects that’s what it sounds like and moving heavy equipment’s or furniture back and forth. He acts like just because he doesn’t work a 9 to 5 no else does 🙄🤦🏻♀️Also I live not too far from the train station that’s under construction unfortunately we moved in to this apartment from hell after living here 6mon it’s been almost 3yrs living here and they’re still under construction. They were suppose to finish by the end of Aug and here we are in Sept and they’re still under construction 🤦🏻♀️I work from 3pm-11pm and they start construction at 10am till 2:30pm with the honking noise from the train every time they pass I can hear it so loud I literally had to put my tv on all night on playing the sound of the rain real loud to help cancel the noise it’s just ridiculous. This is hell. This is my first experience living in a building complex and it’ll be my last.
When an object hits a surface, it causes a low frequancy sound that travels through the surface. So preventing somehting like that will be very difficult.
"What most people don't know is that most of the noise creeps out where ever you see light" Not true. I turned off the light in the hallway so I did not see any light through the gaps. At first there was indeed silence , but then I heard a loud bang and cursing when my wife fell down the stairs.
That is because the sound was caused by an object hitting the floor - a part of the house - causing the soundwaves to travel through the floor instead of it being airbourn. Heavy objects hitting the floor causes a loud low frequancy thud, and those are very hard to block or absord, in this case the object is a women.
I think he or she is being funny. I could be wrong though. It made me laugh
🤣😂
😂
technically some sound waves will escape through the openings where their is currently light. but not most.
11:36 Yo ok, so BEFORE you do this, please for the love of god TURN OFF THE BREAKER to that outlet/switch before even taking the cover plate off, I cannot stress this enough and I hope this comment is seen. There is some serious power going through there and there are exposed screw terminals on both the outlet and the switch that with the slightest movement can totally shock the hell out of you. *SHUT OFF THE BREAKER BEFORE MESSING WITH ELECTRICITY* (Also another suggestion is when the power is off and only after the power is off, wrap the inner part of the outlet with electrical tape.)
Nah, I like to touch the live parts it’s more fun that way, it doesn’t shock me because I wear thick insulated boots and I’m ungrounded
He said to do so at 11:18.
Be careful with sealing bedroom doors. Most rooms do not have a return air duct, therefore the air in that room won't be able to circulate now which will cause the CO2 levels to increase dramatically which isn't healthy as well heating and cooling that room will now be inefficient.
Yup... this is why I installed a balanced system in my home. Basically a supply and return duct in every room (except bathrooms, they only get supplys and)..
Isn't that what windows are for?
@@kathklphotography Not really.. Operable windows are only required by code in bedroom as a means of egress (USA).. If I could, I would put picture windows (non operable) in every room since you do not need to, nor should you open them to put unconditioned air into your home.. That is why we have these things called ERVs...
I've never lived in a house without return air ducts in every bedroom.
That's why we use Air conditioner
one of the reasons I bought a ranch home is how much easier it is to sound proof and wire things with an attic above and basement below, put in extra insulation on the interior walls myself during construction.
exactly. you should have purchased a Audio studio like me. I live in my studio and eat and go to the bathroom and have fun.
@@michael-4k4000How big and how much you paid?
As someone who has studied noise and sound. So glad to see you mention the 3dB part and then the 10dB part as well. Most folk don't mention this or understand it.
I just recently had to sound proof my new apartment which is in a VERY old building.
I am lucky to have a SOLID wood front door.
The door was nice and thick, but also was not sealed..... like.... at all.
I tried multiple kinds of weather stripping, I had used the kind you used in this video in the past and it worked well enough
But this apartment led me to a new find. I used Brush weather stripping on both the door frame, and the edge of the door in such a way that when the door closed they lined up, creating a pretty strong seal.
This alone made more difference than anything I had tried before, I am not sure if I could do a front door on a 20 dollar budget in the US, but just something to consider.
I also placed another kind of rubber weather stripping on the inside of the door that's name I do not know, and this made the seal strong enough I was able to turn my Kanto Yu2s up to near max volume while facing the door, without being able to hear them from the other side.
Side note on the bookshelf tip - I once used a staple gun to put moving blankets on the back of a Billy bookcase that was against the wall of a particularly noisy neighbor. Worked wonders.
Now that I am more financial stable (I know not as relevant to this video) I tend to staple gun Mass loaded Vinyl to the back of a book case and then put a layer of rockwool between the bookcase and the wall. I have had a live band on the other side of a wall I did that to and barely could hear it.
I'm trying to visualize and I don't understand. Why the vinyl?
Is the Rockwood visible ?
I'm ready to try anything at this point!
I have just found through a lot of experimentation that it is the most effective way to cut all frequencies, this is also assuming you have books on the book shelf.
I have tried both "building a fake wall full of rockwool, and just stacks of mass loaded Vinyl. Both helped for sure.
But combing the 2 has made it so my neighbor has had band practice on the other side of the wall without me noticing.
There are foam pad/sheets that simply go between the face-plate & the outlet. Low cost, easy to place.
If you caulk around the inner outlet, it makes a mess later when outlets need replaced, or if wires need tightened.
When putting foam around a door frame, on the side where there are hinges, you should put the foam on the frame, not on the door stop. That way the edge of the door isn't going to scrap it off.
You're right, good catch!
Should put the weather stripping towards the side of the wall instead on the side of the frame where the door is attached. Putting it the way it is in this video the door will start to scrape away the stripping each time you close the door.
Thanks Mate you are awesome. This is what every lad need to know. Hats off to your content and clear guide.
FLOORS: upstairs, & especially in hallways, can place interlocking foam squares-leave plain, or, lay rug over them. This buffers footsteps reaching downstairs rooms.
Oh…these can be got in various colors…like the squares laid for kids’ play rooms.
a great tip i read on some 3m tape instructions is to wipe with isopropal alcohol before applying it. positive i've never had tape/adhesive come lose again, negative i've damaged the surface of everything i've used tape/adhesive on as the surface wants to give before the tape ^^"
should be fine on painted wood but beware of ikea level stuff :P
just ordered a 1L bottle from amazon and this will probably last me a lifetime :P
This is great! Interestingly, most of this is exactly what we recommend for affordable energy efficiency improvements like air sealing and insulation after doing energy audits. Mainly when the room is connected to exterior spaces though like exterior walls, attics, crawlspace, etc.
best channel i know so far
At 04:22 the says "and this one slide it out if the AHU can't handle it" i didn't understand this part. If anyone could explain my regards
basically, if you have a air handling unit, that's tasked with circulating air but requires air flow through the door, then don't slide that thing in. Not sure, why you'd ever need airflow under the door to circulate air through the home though.
I like to study in peace but i cannot do so because there is a cutout in my wall (brick wall) which is an open window and a lot of sound disturbances come through it. I want to block the sounds that come from outside, what should i do? I cannot really fill it with bricks cause there's not enough space to fit them because of the window grill which is built in the wall. Its like a thick window grill that is fixed in the cement and thus i cannot put bricks in the cutout.
I mean you could make a thick concrete, mount wood on both sides of the wall and fill with said thick concrete, or get real good at busting the bricks into just the right shapes
Could u make a similar video on houses made from concrete ceiling,floors, plastered brick walls and single peice solid wooden doors and windows, some doors which are about 7 feet wide and are sliding glass doors on a aluminum frame?
Oversized Moving blankets sewed on curtains help, doors can use sonopan, accoustic panels and wheaterstrip. rubber or persian rugs,. Canvas paintings help also...
How do you do it in nyc hi rise apt rental
Has there been thoughts about using a form of foam insulation or synthetic cork type material as an acoustical barrier?
A foam surface ABSORBS soundwaves whereas cork is a dense matter that BLOCKS sound, so if you are looking for a BARRIER then you would be looking for the cork.
You will only need to sound proof the surface that has another room behind it. This is beacuse of a little thing called resonance, TL:DR sounds in rooms sounds are louder and more condensed then sounds from outside your house!
Hey, Thanks for the great information. I feel like you should be using pink noise as your control sound. It's also royalty free lol. Keep up the great work.
What about sound absorbing drywall? Is that a thing? Or is it just a scam?
Jeans for insulation? Wow I never knew that was a "thing". I guess it would work pretty good.
Yeah, recycled denim insulation batts--they shred the old jeans and then make it into thick fluffy pads like traditional fiberglass batts.
I made my own DIY decoupling system using old tires and a hole saw, latex tubing and rubber washers. I can go into more detail if you would ever want to do a video on DIY decoupling one day.
Please go into more details. Step by step if possible
@@danieli708 Basically you are using all these rubber products so that your 2x2 studs that you mount your drywall to are decoupled from the main building structure, which is any existing wall of some sort. Cut a bunch of rubber circles out of the old tires with a hole saw. You can only use a certain point on the sidewall of the tire since the tread part of the tire has steel cable everywhere. These are the "mounting pads" which will get sandwiched between your decoupled 2x2 and the building structure. Alternatively you can just skip this step and buy some rubber vibration mounting pads but those are pretty expensive. Way more expensive than they should be for just a little piece of rubber.
Next take your 2x2s and drill a few 1 1/4" holes halfway through them. Then drill a 3/8" hole all the way through the 2x2s in the center of those 1 1/4" holes. These will be the mounting points at which you attach you decoupled 2x2 to the building structure. If your walls are 8ft high, drill 4 total, if 6ft high drill 3 total, etc. space them about 2ft apart. Next cut a bit of latex tubing and put it in the 3/8" holes you drilled. this will prevent the shaft of the screw from directly touching the 2x2 and transferring vibration from the structure to the 2x2, since when you drive the screw into the building structure to mount the 2x2, the screw couples to the structure. A pretty standard and common size of latex tubing is 3/8" outside diameter and 1/4" inside diameter, so it should wedge into the 3/8" hole perfectly. If you chose to glue them in, use a flexible adhesive like silicone, and not a hard one like wood glue or super glue.
You also have to put 2 small (1"diameter) rubber washers at the bottom of the 1 1/4" hole and a steel washer on top of that. this step will make it so that when the screw clamps down on the 2x2, it is not directly touching the 2x2, it is only touching the rubber washer. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THESE SCREWS, DO NOT MAKE THEM TOO TIGHT, or you will squeeze the hell out of your rubber and vibrations will travel through the rubber more easily. And since you drilled halfway through the 2x2 with the 1 1/4" hole, any drywall you mount on top of the 2x2 will not be touching the screw head. So now you have a mounting surface for drywall which is decoupled from the building structure. And you can add things like Mass loaded vinyl, 2 layers of drywall and acoustic sealant to this decoupled layer to add mass for even further sound reduction.
@@morscovium8881 that's a long reply, thanks for the details. I took a screenshot to re-read it and reference to it.
Thank you
@@morscovium8881 Amazing idea! Do you think one could build a small recording booth/pod with that method? Any price estimations?
What about a brush type seal underneath an indoor door?
Correction (7:05): reducing decibel by 10 means reducing power of sound by 10 times. So that's why noise reduction is never easy.
I did it with materials I got for free. There is nothing that absorbs sound better - or actually any waves, including radio and wireless, lol 😂
It is a veeeery old recipe: clay-straw mix, usually mixed 50:50 (volume, not weight). As a finish I buy clay plaster and lime colour, which I can dye with pigments.
The clay straw mix needs a rough surface to hold on to. Traditionally it was done with hazel branches cut in half and nailed on the wood. The modern choice is reed.
Another side effect of this insulation: it insulates against cold only moderately (wood fiber is stronger hete) but is very good against heat.
The resulting wall can't beat loads, but thats what the wood frame is for. Ah... I nearly forgot: it preserves the wood the clay is in contact with, as long as there is no permanent moisture damage. But moisture is always visible in clay walls!
Our doors and windows are sound proof already, not sure why that is a problem in the USA - maybe too cheap? 😅
I would like to know if a window plug is possible for windows that are not that deep set and if so, how?
Should work the same way, unless you mean it's not deep enough to even hold the plug?
thanks
I wonder if it's possible to use air mattresses or even water mattresses for soundproofing...
Hi, good video, hopefully you can help with my question, i have a wooden sauna thats made in the basement, and i wanna make that into a drum room. i was thinking of making some panels out of a board with rock wool in between and foam panels on top and covering the whole room with that including the ceiling, room aint that big about 95 inch length, 73 width. What are your thoughts?
Great content 🏆🏆🏆
Can you please do a video on sliding glass doors? I think that's my issue is the noise from the sliding door off of my balcony (that faces the freeway).
It’s on my list. 😊
@@soundproofguide Thank you! I've gotten the window inserts from watching your videos. It has helped my bedroom loads!
Thick curtains tight to the wall will do wonders. But it has to be Thiccc
@@FJB2020 How thick? I already have thick. lol
@@dinh5532 I guess I should rephrase that.. Dense, they need to be dense.. A three layer approach works well.. Thick textile outside to match whatever decor you have, flexible mass vinyl inner core and another thick textile 3rd layer. it should be touching the walls around the slider to be effective as the sound will just go around it. I have also seen someone make acoustic panels that fit tight to the door inside the frame and they can be removed when not in use or when you want to use the door.
Can you help please..
My neighbours smoke too much and it come in my living room, bedroom I'm sick of it ...
Amazon has $50 ionizers. They are very small, and will work for your whole apt.
Nyc apts can't figure out what you can do
Great video and - Wow! Wouldn't have thought the door seal would make such a big difference, even though it's plastic!
I think it has to be flexible though, like green glue.
Why did you use acoustic seal on the lamp outlet, but not on windows, though?
I work nights, live in an apartment with my cousin and his gf. Love them to death and wouldnt want to be anywhere else... but.. 10 years in the army has destroyed my sleeping -_- every little aound will keep me awake, and working nights obviously makes that much harder! I need help!!! Lol im gonna follow a lot of whats in this video, but if anyone has any other advice or tips id greatly appreciate it! Thanks guys!
Damn bro, that depends on where the sounds coming from. I've been modifying my door: Screw on card board on one side and on the other, I add a layer of glass wool and covered it with a blackout curtain. Plenty of soundproofing for under $100 bucks.
How do I get in touch with you?
Info@soundproofguide.com
I also have a members section where you can ask from simple to more complex questions regarding your soundproofing project.
Nice
How about a frequency noise? Cell tower RFID?
Traditional soundproofing won't block RFID and cell tower noise since these are electromagnetic waves, not sound. To reduce RF noise, use RF shielding paint, fabrics, or window films, or consider creating a Faraday cage by using metal mesh or foil in the walls. These materials block the signals effectively.
@@soundproofguide So if I have my homes exterior painted black with the shielding paint and then brought back to the current color it would work? I have metal roll downs and hurricane glass with three panels so I have no Idea what will work. If you could be so kind please send me links to the paints to buy. Thank you.
If you are low on a budget and you want to minimize the noise you make on the floor. Buy some foam pads for underneath the legs of the chairs.
And bigger foam pads for underneath the speakers of your sound system.
What's the solution to soundproofing a door when one side is carpet and the other side is hardwood?
That would depend on if the carpet extends to underneath the door or it doesn't. If it does then It soundproofs itself. If it doesn't go under the door, Then you can try gluing a sweep underneath it.
Plz! @soundproofguide do a sliding glass door plz! Where I live the back pool area is facing a road and motorcycle and tuned cars love speeding through there plz I'm renting and I can't get a better sliding door plz save my Marriage 😂
Sliding doors already are pretty good at preventing noise from coming in or out. If you are hearing noise coming through the door then there is a high chance that it is not being closed properly, preventing a seal and thus noise coming through. This means that there is something wrong with the slidding door as a whole - has somehting misaligned or disloged -and I recommend that you get someone to check on it.
Prisoners have the luxury of living on hard surfaces ❕
Much easier and free option... The source of the sound you are using to test just turn it down. BAM! Noise reduced and didn't even have to go to the store!
Try that with acoustic instruments.....
@@hellomate639*hits drums softer, strums guitar softer, plays piano gentler*
@@freedblowfish3705lose all the emotion by doing so
Try that with a husky 😂😂😂
A reduction of 3dB is a halving of the volume, not 10dB.
3dB is a halving of energy, not volume.
Door sweeps = reduced air flow. You can't have both.
90% reduction means 10dB which is not what I would call soundproofing.
Or use ultrasonic directional speakers.
And now there is no air circulation around that door and your electric bill is higher due to air flow restriction
Wrong title of soundproofing
32 minutes of pure nonsense lol all this stuff does very little to nothing, is a waste of time and money, if you're renting you pretty much fuked, poor people can't have privacy and quietness, fact of life, time to become rich fellas lol
Dude you talk a lot. This video could have been half the length if not less
how is this posible? easy, just don't spend more than $100
(i'm obviously joking, i'm actually gonna watch the video)
Jeans... yes... nothing else with work... like... shirts, newspaper, etc. None of those will work. Only jeans. /sarcasm
Get rid of your mother in law
You haven't soundproofed anything, you've reduced the sound...bit of a difference.
That is what soundproofing is. Complete cessation of sound would require complete cessation of vibrations passing through material - which does not exist.
It's funny that you americans live in huts instead of actual houses and you need DIY your living space after it was 'built' to reach a level which should be the bare minimum.
Sad, not funny.
@ yes, my apologies.
You mean sound reduction, not sound proofing.
You meant to call this sound dampening. Not proofing.
Average US adult reads at a 7th grade level. The more recognizable the word, the more likely his video will be watched. I agree with you on the verbiage, but the sad truth is that accuracy is not valued as much as playing to the emotion behind the issue. He's just playing to what works best for SEO. Can you blame him?
What can I do to sound proof my ceiling? I have annoying nuisance neighbors upstairs he acts more like an animal they have no respect or consideration for us. I don’t have any problems with walking. I have a problem with the moron doing big loud home projects late at night. He obviously doesn’t work, he sleeps all day and stays up all night doing home projects that’s what it sounds like and moving heavy equipment’s or furniture back and forth. He acts like just because he doesn’t work a 9 to 5 no else does 🙄🤦🏻♀️Also I live not too far from the train station that’s under construction unfortunately we moved in to this apartment from hell after living here 6mon it’s been almost 3yrs living here and they’re still under construction. They were suppose to finish by the end of Aug and here we are in Sept and they’re still under construction 🤦🏻♀️I work from 3pm-11pm and they start construction at 10am till 2:30pm with the honking noise from the train every time they pass I can hear it so loud I literally had to put my tv on all night on playing the sound of the rain real loud to help cancel the noise it’s just ridiculous. This is hell. This is my first experience living in a building complex and it’ll be my last.
When an object hits a surface, it causes a low frequancy sound that travels through the surface. So preventing somehting like that will be very difficult.