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An Easy, DIY Router Table Fence with dust collection for your bench top router.
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2023
- After installing my bench top router a year ago it's time to add an adjustable fence to it to add dust collection and to allow me to use no bearing cutters. A simple build with no complicated tracks or mechanisms and what ended up as great suction to help dust collection.
Proper DIY Patreon Page: / properdiy
I really appreciate how you apply your own original ideas rather than just iterating on something a hundred RUclipsrs have done before. It makes your videos much more interesting and shows off your engineering spark!
Thank you - much appreciated because that's what I try to do.
This definitely is the most budget friendly option I’ve seen built in a video lately.
Yep! The pivot idea is exactly what I was thinking before I searched and found your video. Much simpler. You gave me some ideas how to make mine. Thank you. Cheers.
Great job Stu! I think that was probably more work than just putting in 2 x T-Track and of course you limit the distance you can move the fence away from the bit by around 50% percent with it just moving at one end! But as I said, great job!
Good to see the videos back. enjoyed the router guid a lot. well out of my league but a very interesting watch. enjoyed it 👍
Freaking brilliant!! Those T-tracks are a nightmare to get absolutely square and the thing the so best is get clogged with dust. Beautiful solution my man, well done!
Nicely done as usual. Very easy to follow you, great.
Nice job and well thought out, Stuart. A router table is definitely on the 'must do' lost. Excellent video.
Great idea. I think I'll try that. Much appreciated!
Smart thinking Stuart..kind regards from the Netherlands
Nice job. Looks like it works well with router bits with bearings.
The simple pivot idea is worth...an instant sub. I think I will do something very similar.
Simplicity!! Just the way i like it. I really like your lil tape trick for squaring a miter saw. Definitely gonna starting using that method on my saw. Thanks Boss👍
Another master piece stuart.Keep these DIY projects coming.A great deal can be learned from them.
Thanks, will do!
Superb timing, got to build one this one weekend. Thank You
Nice one!
Proper job mate. Very proud of all the excellent work you are doing.
Much appreciated Stuart
Cheers Stuart. It's simple, it works, it's now on my to do list 👍👍
Thanks Andy
This idea is just brilliant.. simple and very easy to remove. I think i'll make my own one just like this using your idea. It is just simple brilliant.
Greetings from Ohio USA. I copied your design and it worked flawlessly. I particularly like the side mount of the vacuum hose. I was wanting to build a robust fence for my diy router table and this fit the bill. Thanks.
Very clever Stuart, nice work yet again.😀
Thanks Kevin
Well done! A very original and low cost solution.
Tomorrow i am going to build it.
Thank you for sharing this Stuart.
Have fun doing it!
Great project as always Stuart!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Stuart! A copy of this one will be built in Stockholm this weekend. Brilliant!
Nice one Johan. Send me a photo once complete.
Honestly, what a revaluation of a video.
Thank You
Love your ideas Stuart. I use a pivot on my drill press fence!
one thought I had is that the inside of the fence may end up filled with wood chips.
Great, Super. One of your best, SM. You didn’t get where you are today without knowing that less is more.❤
Wow, thank you
Lovely stuff. Quick and easy to set up, which is so important. Another job ticked off the list 👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great idea. Will have to modify for my use, but it should work out great. Thanks for another wonderful video. Will have to convert measurements when I build it here in Minnesota, USA.
Glad it was helpful! I would say a ply box about 5" square with a face of 6" or 7"
Good Idea! Thanks For Sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great job, great thinking especially when it comes to use a pivot instead of two rails. By the way I like this choice because t-tracks are usually quite expensive when two screws do the job very well, don't weaken the table top and are pretty cheap. Other youtubers buy aluminum fences which also cost a lot of money. Your solution seems sturdy, efficient and removable. Your workshop looks like you really work in there and not only make videos. I need to make myself a fence for my router table and I think I'm gonna steal most of your ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Perfect timing! I just built the bench from your video (slightly modified to incorporate my bench saw) added the wheels to move it and also the router and router plate... was just looking at how I could add a fence for the router and then you go and post one. Thank you. Really enjoying the videos. Actually useful topics and using tools most of us probably have! Keep up the great work.
Glad I could help!
The pivot is absolute genius! I know, because that's how I've done it on my router table. Great minds, as they say, .. .👍
Nice one!
I built a router table several years ago ( about 20). I have a fence that I have on a pivot and then I clamp it on the other end to the table. The table top is 2 pieces of 3/4 ply glued together. I got a scrap at a cabinet company that I used to work at out of the trash bin. The fence doesn't have to move much and I have a 1/8 inch by 3/8 inch rabbit in the fence at the bottom. I use this as a dust relief and when I edge band any pieces of plywood, I can use a straight cutter in the router so I can run the panel through the set up and I will have a flush edge.Since I am clamping the fence to the edge of the table, I didn't have to worry about the slot. I have a 4" dust port on the back of the fence.
Dame good idea so much better than the the fancy fences most of us don't need one of your best I projects Thank You
Thanks Steve
Another excellent "KISS" project - Keep It Simple Stuart - I have often thought the same myself about only one end needing to to adjust, so good to see this working in practice ! Problem solved and so handy that you can just tuck it under the bench when not required !
Lol good idea for merch there, T-shirts with the proper DIY logo on the breast like Stuart wears, and KISS - Keep it Simple, Stuart! on the back
@@waynethomas2118Yes, I sort of prefer the sound of SKIS (Stuart keeps it simple) but couldn't resist staying with KISS !
Excellent idea!
Nice one Andy! I might use that!
@@anonimushbosh If you watched closely you would see the 'vacuum box' as you call it is just in one end - the dust collection end.
I have a similar dust collector Stuart. Rather than reaching over all of the time to turn it on and off I bought a remote plug from Amazon. They're quite cheap and come with two plugs. I have the remote attached under the front of my workbench so with the dust collector switch permanently in the 'on' position I just turn it on from the bench. It might not seem like a lot but it really improves the efficiency of working. It also means you can have the dust collector anywhere in your shop if you run a long hose. I'm so used to it now I'd buy another if it broke.
I'm just doing this very thing. My Mancave is a tip and I need to minimise the amount of "things" cluttering the place up. I'd thought of a router table, but I have a perfectly good bench/outfeed table so... watch this space. I'm also with you 100% on the swivel type of fence and don't plan on spending a small fortune on T track any time soon.
Perfect idea cheers buddy..👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work sir
Thanks
Great video !! thanks
Glad you liked it!
Fancy doing a job without T track,flip stop or adhesive metric measure Stuart. Thanks for the video Stuart.👍👍
Exactly! I shouldn't be allowed on RUclips really.
You have not mentioned what broadband speed you need for the Router and what network connections it has? - Only Kidding - I've worked with Americans too much - Great Video - Going to look at building this now
Nice one thanks
One reason for two tracks and parallel fenced movement is often the fence will have a perpendicular slot for a miter guage.
found you by chance, glad I did. thinking of making a better fence for router table but couldn't figure out how to incorporate my vacuum hose into it. build a box! drill a hole! brilliant! You Sir have a new fan. 👍
I liked this design and video a lot, so thanks for sharing. My only concern is the few inches of pivot means you could only make a cut that far from the edge of a board or less. For example, if the range of pivot was 3” and you wanted to put a dado in a board 4” from the edge, you couldn’t use this fence. I suppose that just means you determine the range of cuts you’ll likely need for your projects and then make the depth of the box (the range of pivot) greater than that. Besides that, I think it is a great design and I will probably make one of my own soon.
Great job, Stuart! An ounce of design is worth a pound of T-track (or something like that 🙂)
Thanks Eddy, I knew that was a saying.
Great job Stuart. I used the same idea last year for a fence on my pillar drill that I have built into a bench.
Nice one
Sorry Stuart, just a quick observation,why didn't you use a wider mouthed adapter to suck in the sawdust as seen in at the start?I'm sure you could adapt one from any vacuum manufacturer.The table fence is a brilliant creation none the less.
I am enjoying your very informative channel as I was not allowed (during the 70's) to do either metal work or woodwork at school (much to my dismay) and I'm learning so much from you so thank you.
A lovely example of lateral thinking, Stuart. Well done. Dust collection is the bane of every maker. I'm going to have to use this idea for my workshop. One small thing I noted was, at 13:15, you lose an inch or so of your adjustment slot as the bit goes under the fence. Simply moving your pivot position into the worktop could give you a few more inches of working room in front of the fence. Cheers.
I know exactly what you mean and it was something I thought about during the build but didn't explain in the video. At the pivot end, it is easy and quick to put in say 3 holes and T nuts all an inch or 2 from each other and then decide which one to use on the day depending on where you want the fence to be relative to the cutter. This then gives you as much adjustment as you will ever need so I wasn't really bothered where the first one went.
@@ProperDIY Unlimited adjustment for the price of a couple of T nuts. Who needs T slots?! Thanks, Stuart. Always get something new from your videos. Cheers, Eh! 🍁
I’m sure you already knew this but you can change the bearing size to vary the cutting depth. Although Sod’s Law you’ll need a depth that doesn’t match the available bearings! 😊
Great job Stuart and albeit a tad late 'Happy New Year' to you too. Incidentally FYI, I've just found out that "The New Yankee Workshop" has it's own You Tube channel too, launched earlier by Russell Morash (Producer) so Norm rides again, but you probably know that already ?
Wishing you well and keep up the content Sir.
"Remember there is no more important safety rule, than to wear these, safety glasses" Iconic stuff.
I didn't know but I've just had a look. Timeless stuff and still impressive I must say.
Having owned a router table for just about a year I totally agree with you about pivoting the fence.
Mine came with a plastic fence which slides and is very useable but I have been thinking about making a pivoting fence for some time.
After having seen your design and seeing how well it works I think it's about time to build something similar to yours. Your dust collection solution is a great idea too.
It looks like a pivoting fence is much easier for fine adjustment, would you agree?
awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
I noticed the slot marking tape curling up after umpteen passes. If you had kept the tape so that it wasn't underneath the wood it wouldn't have moved. Or even marked it so that you could see when you were approaching the end of the travel.
Good sir, may I make a suggestion for your router work. My suggestion is to not put your fingers closer than 300mm or 1ft to the cutter. Instead, fully research the different type of push sticks for router tables. Also, in line with excellent safety, study an all round course on this work table. Thank you for your interesting videos.
Nice!!!
Thanks!
@@ProperDIY When do we start lawn prep? 😉
Hi sir a very common sense approach that’s extremely practical. I’m curious as to the make of the router? Kind regards 👍
Thanks. It's a Trend T14
I think the purpose of the two tracks is to keep the fence parallel to a miter slot in front of the bit in most cases.
I was thinking this myself, although this a clever idea, it seems limited, if you wanted a parallel groove 30mm in, it would have to be parallel to the cutter, wouldn't it🤷♂️, its got me thinking now... 🤔
@@the_humble_workshop5718 the distance is always the same at the cutter point. There is no parallel to the cutter, it's not a line like a table saw, it's a point.
I can put in additional T nuts at the pivot end into the bench so if I'm cutting a slot in the center of a board (say 100mm in) it still works
@@ProperDIY hmmm, that makes more sense, altering the pivot point, you could have a row of pivot points I guess, it's I'm making my own router fence/table and you've thrown a spanner in the works with this idea💡, 😂😂😂I have to admit I'm still not totally convinced, it's because for years I've seen router tables with T-tracks, keeping it parallel, it's definitely a food for thought...🤔
Maybe you should patent this idea, it might catch on 😂😂😂
@@the_humble_workshop5718 Does having 2 T tracks keep things parallel ... or just 'sort of' parallel?
Excellent router fence solution. Thanks for taking the time to share! Just a quick, off-topic question: How are you getting on with the Scheppach shop vac? My no-name vac recently packed in, and I'm on the lookout for a replacement.
Do the rool holes reduce the dust collection vacuum? Cracking job simple, functional and not massively large 👍👍
Another great video. I’m sure many will follow where you lead. Just one thought, Do you not worry that the section of the fence that is being used for dust extraction might be awkward to access if anything gets into it and causes a blockage?
Absolutely brilliant, simple and cheap. Excellent way to do it.
Thank you and well done Stuart. I hate paying for T track
Any chance that would work on my pillar drill??
Thanks. Could do the same for a drill I'm sure
Great video thanks Stuart. Just one question, who is Heath Robinson?
He was a cartoonist that drew up elaborate and complicated machines/ inventions for what are normally mundane simple tasks 😃
@@welshkid12 ah! Like Stuart then.
Very God!
Cool
Thanks
Another great video. Question: did you have any issues with the dust hose connected a the top, allowing dust to settle at low level in the final chamber?
Not really. The suction on the unit is quite good so as the air passes through the box it tends to take everything with it. There may be some dust sitting in there but not much I think.
I take back what I said about "pivoted" routing fences, if you Google it, you find its been in use for a while and has good reviews, so why haven't large manufacturers made this type of fence commercially, strange🤔🤔
Oh has it - I've not looked. And there I was thinking it was a first!
What is the best primer size?
Bit cold in there eh mate 🤣
Yep
Errrr... Doesn't drilling the holes in the top mess with the integrity of the box and reduce the suck power (technical term) from the shopvac?
Yes, but only if you drilled into the half that is under suction on the vacuum side.
@@ProperDIY Ahhhhhhh.
👍
thanks
Get a Dewalt nail gun. I have one they are great.
I will definitely have a look
I was going to suggest that. I have the dewalt 18v cordless nail gun. It works well and consistently but (a) it is quite big and bulky as it has a centrifuge in it that is used to power the nail into the wood, and (b) unless you are on rapid fire mode there is a noticeable lag as the motor spins the centrifuge up each time.
For the infrequent times I use it I am happy enough with it. If I was constantly building cabinets I think I’d go for a simple airgun nailer like Peter Millard uses, I think his is a cheap Silverline one
Apologies for the typo I meant tool holes
If you watch around the 11 min mark it will explain it, the vacuum port is one side and is seperated from the tool holes side by a solid piece of ply.
😲👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Fingers much too close to router! Please be careful!!!
9:29 That tape idea didn't work, stop blocks would have been a better idea.
_Guaranteed no guff_
Exactly!
Great video but please dont wear your gloves when using this, a guy at work just lost a digit because the glove dragged his finger in
Hi i think your videos are great just mainly for indoors doesn't she tell you off for wearing
black clothes and getting them dirty specially with saw dust...