one thing i want to tell others that are just starting to dye is that acetone is super flammable so if you are going to use a torch then make sure your dye is either closed or put away from the work area
Thanks for the video I tried this technique using body lotion , frankly it didn’t come good . Will try it on glue next time . One tip for everyone whoever tries it for first time, donot remove the stamp because even if the dye doesn’t turn out good the stamp with Multi colour without swirl patter also will make ur disc look cool
Great video. I would live to know how you did the dye you showed at the end, where the Discraft logo stays on there and the dye seems to run behind it.
The stamp itself won’t dye! So instead of using acetone to get it off, just leave it on and dip as normal, and it’ll stay. The dye doesn’t effect the stamp
Nice tutorial I used this to dye my first 2 discs, only thing I’d say is it is definitely not a quarter teaspoon of dye & the rest acetone. That didn’t work at all. I was using the same jar. I had to dump out around a quarter of the jar & put more dye in.
Really? I’ve always had luck with right at a 1/4 tsp or a heaping 1/4 tsp. The only time that isn’t true is with one or two newer colors like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest. I’ve found that those two need double or triple the amount of dye to get a good product. 🤙
Thank you much!! Doing well. I’ve been trying to perfect a couple cell dye techniques on top of going to a bunch of tournaments and going on missions - I’m in the Air Force. Next video will be up by the end of May and will be cells 2-3 ways. 🤙
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Awesome! I've been watching a bunch on dye videos and yours is easily the most accesible and understandable imo :D Keep it up man, hope you're staying safe and well!
These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated.
I used this method, however, could not find the dyes you are using, but I did use the Ryt Dyes; question, when I was dripping the orange dye, it sank to the bottom. Is this normal?? It seemed to swirl together once I did it.
Yeah the dyes I use have to be bought online, unfortunately. Best dyes IMO though. prochemicalanddye.net/disc-golf-disc-dyes.html As far as the RIT, yes that will happen and it is no bueno. I’ve not experimented, but one guy commented on another video that you can mix the RIT with acetone and it will float on top of the glue. No idea on the ratio though. I’ve also heard of people mixing the RIT with glue or lotion and squirting that on top of the glue. Could turn out alright but I doubt it’ll look like the results in the video. 🤙
I put in a fusion bounty for 10 hrs and the dye just washed off, I figured just go for longer? Nothing adhered, so I’m wondering if my ratios are off. Pro Chem mixed with acetone and elmers washable glue.
Fusion definitely does take dye. I’ve had to leave it in a little longer though. Anything that is slightly opaque or clear gets at least 48 hrs in my beds. So Fusion, Champion, Z, 400/500 plastics. Be sure to wash it off well with a scrubber too. I recently pulled out a 400 M3 and saw streaks on it which was probably leftover grease from the factory. Make sure you’re putting enough dye in your acetone bottles too. You should have a decent layer of residue powder at the bottom of the jar/bottle. Don’t suck that up in your dropper, but that layer lets you know you have enough dye in your mix.
I think if you can get real good at intricate stencils, that where the most prestige is...especially among dyers. Check out @discdyeingdotcom on IG (Keith Leimpa). Dude’s stencil work is insane. That’s just my opinion though. Glue bed swirls can be pretty sick if you expand and play with your color palette. @pipedreamer79 for reference. I got into disc dyeing for the cell bed techniques. @TiffanyShaw54573 @B13_disc_design and @luckydyesdg have some really sweet examples. I also really dig the work from @daddymacdyes, although his technique is on a glue bed and isn’t cells. If you got good at any of those styles, you’d have lots of customers/respect. As far as the best color, glue beds are my preference. Some of the colors out there are better than others whether you use ProChem, iDye Poly or any others. Some colors just don’t work too well in glue for some reason. Lotion beds/lotion dyes look pretty sweet too as far as color saturation.
Have you noticed any issues with your acetone and dye powder mix with disc you dye with the stamp still on? Curious before I try it. Since we remove the stamp with acetone if you've seen the stamp come off with the acetone/dye powder mix. Thanks!
I’ve done several where I left the stamp on the disc and they came out fine. You just want to let the dye bed sit for 10-15 minutes before dropping a disc in. If you put the disc in real quick then the acetone can eat away the stamp while it’s dying.
I’ve never deliberately tried to put my hand in a dye bed, but I’ve got plenty of dye on my skin before. Wearing some sort of latex glove is advisable. 🤙
For the weight, no. I’ve weighed before and after and haven’t seen any weight change. It’s an approved method as far as PDGA rules as long as you use dye. If you use an acrylic paint or something, that will alter the weight and it’s not legal anymore for sanctioned play. For the texture, it won’t alter texture if you do it right. There is a possibility if you wipe the stamp with acetone and scrub too much. Or if you put waaaay too much acetone based dye and then quickly put your disc in. The acetone can “burn” the disc and make it feel more like construction paper instead of a glass smoothness.
Hey, I tried this technique on a ESP disc multiple times but it’s just not dying? Am I doing something wrong? Or could it be because it’s older plastic?
It’s not dying at all? Super weird. ESP takes dye like a champ. First question: what kind of dye are you using? If it’s iDye, make sure the package says “iDye Poly”. If you’re using ProChem, make sure you have the “Active Dispersion” dye or the ones marketed specifically as “disc golf dyes”. Both companies sell different types of dyes and the other types don’t work well or don’t work at all.
You sure can! Most people mix with Acetone but some also mix with Denatured Alcohol. I’ve never done glue bed dyes with an alcohol mix but I do use an alcohol mix with spin dyes. It takes longer for the color to stick to the plastic but it’s way easier to get good fading when spin dying.
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Thank you. I have some ProChem colors on the way and looking forward to trying to improve on my dyes. Appreciate your videos and reply.
Thanks for the video. Been doing spin dyes with my record player which has been great but the splatter effect with the glue is amazing. Question for you: does purple and hot pink take a lot longer than other colors? It seems that way for me. Thanks!
Much respect! Spin dyes can be quite the challenge. I haven’t really seen too much in terms of colors taking longer. The big thing I have seen is certain colors requiring much more dye and mixing times with acetone, in order to get good colors on the disc - namely Caribbean blue and lemon zest. 🤙
Nice vid man. I'm doing my first dye right now with rit synthetic mixed 3:1 with acetone in a white glue bed. I tried last night without acetone and this morning it was very, very faint. Hopefully the acetone will help it permeate the plastic. For what it's worth, it's a latitude 64 keystone I'm doing. Any input?
I’ve not tried mixing Rit with acetone for a glue bed....should work tho. As far as advice, make sure you’re using Gold plastic. Opto, Zero or their other plastics could be the reason you’re getting faint colors. I never get good results with baseline plastics (Zero, DX, Pro D, Jawbreaker, etc) or somewhat see-through plastic (Champion, Z, Opto, etc...). They are always faint results.
I was wondering if you could answer a question? I tried this but didnt work. I'm guessing it was one of two things or both. What plastics take the dye? I think I tried it on cheaper plastic that didn't take it. Also I tried Rit dye with it, does this dye work? Would it work if I mixed it with acetone?
So you definitely want to stick to the premium plastics - Innova Star, Discraft ESP, Dynamic Discs Fuzion, Latitude 64 Gold Line, MVP Neutron...that type of plastic from any of the companies. The baseline/cheap plastics do take plastic but it usually comes out faded or fades very quickly if it does take the dye. The more clear type plastics can also take dye but those need to sit for at least 2-3 days for the dye to take and even then, it won’t be as vibrant as the Star, ESP, etc types.
Rit maaaay work if you got the powder type and mixed it with acetone. I’ve never tried it tho. If you get the liquid Rit, that will not work in glue. I think the best way to use Rit is to use the pre-mixed Rit and squirt it directly on a bed of lotion or conditioner/shampoo and swirl it. The swirls won’t come out as defined/crisp as the glue method but it does allow the dye to absorb in the plastic.
@@kimballlloyd1127 Awesome!! Glad to hear! If you’ve done the basic ‘drip and swirl’ technique, I’d suggest trying dripping in all your colors, swirl them, and then use a straw to blow all the swirls around. Gives it a different type of look that looks pretty sweet. 🤙
lol that’s ok. I’m not looking to make money or anything. I rarely even sell discs, I just donate to local clubs or children/veteran associations. Just a hobby. 🤙
In short, I don’t dye them. If you’re dead set on it, I’d leave in bare minimum of 24 hrs....48 hrs if possible. I’ve done several tests by leaving them in 24-48 hours, with or without a heat pad, dye mixed with with straight acetone vs mixed with lotion etc....and it never comes out with bright/saturated colors when compared to Star/ESP/500g etc. The only way I’d recommend Z/Champion style plastic is if you’re doing a stencil and doing a hot dip with black. Those turn out fine.
These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated. 🤙
Mmmm....you may get some of the dye to stick but I highly doubt it will come out meeting expectations. I’ve never heard of anyone trying it. Prolly best to stick to the common dyes like ProChem, iDye Poly, Worm Dip or Spike it!.
That’s a negative. I’ve tried several things but haven’t been able to recover a bad dye. If you pull a disc out within a couple minutes you can “erase” most of the dye with acetone....if you’re quick enough. But using this glue/swirl method, that dye isn’t coming off after 8+ hours.
Leaving the stamp on is no problem. Be sure to clean the disc with soap/water and a magic eraser if you can. Do your swirls and let the bed sit for 10-15 minutes and your good. That lets the alcohol/acetone evaporate and it won’t mess with the stamp. Stencils is a whole separate topic. Have you done any stencils before?
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i am currently doing a shaving cream bed with a stencil on a beginners disc (sensei from discmania). my first ever dye-job to it's mostly a tester :)
@@fufashi Gotchya. If it’s S Line plastic, you should be set. For some reason, most Sensei’s I’ve seen recently are the base line plastic…P Line? If that’s what you’ve got, it should absorb the dye but the colors won’t be very bright. Same thing if you were using DX plastic from Innova, X from Disctraft, etc… So yeah, tons of ways to cut out the stencil on your laminated paper and then get it on the disc. The hard part is making sure that it’s centered to not offset the stencil you’re leaving on. That can take some practice. If you’re sprinkling your powder on the shaving cream, spray it with a little water and you’re good to go. If you spray it with alcohol/acetone or if you’re using a mixed dye that has alcohol/acetone in it, just let it sit for 10-15 min before putting your disc in.
I imagine there is, but I’ve never tested it. The standard soak time that most all dyers use is somewhere between 12-24 hours. The only time I go over that is if I’m dying a see-through plastic like Champion, Z, Opto…C line…something like that. I leave those for 48 hours.
I use a rounded 1/4 tsp of dye mixed with 1/8-1/4 cup acetone. After you mix it up, there should still be some powder residue at the bottom. If there isn’t, you need to add some more dye.
Oh wow! Three things. What kind of plastic were you using? How much powder dye did you put in your acetone? And how did you clean the disc before putting it in the bed?
@@seantillotson51 Hmmm...Super weird. I’ve had some older Star plastic not take dye well but it did take some color at least. Maybe you’re over swirling? Have you tried any other discs since your post?
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 yes I tried re mixing my dyes with more dye powder. And we even then them sit for 30 hours and no due stuck. So I’m thinking it might be a problem with the dye
@@seantillotson51 that’s super wild. You should definitely be getting results. Do you know which type of ProChem dye you got? The sell a few types. On their website, you need to get the Active Dispersion (I think they call it “Prosperse Disperse Dyes” on their site) , or the dye that’s marketed as Disc Golf Dye (it’s the same as the other type but has some other colors).
That’s a negative my dude, assuming you’re using the liquid variety. I’ve tried and it drops straight down in the glue to the bottom of the cell bed. You’ll nearly always get better colors from ProChem (the Active Dispersion type) or iDye Poly. But! If you’re dead set on using Rit, you have a few options: 1: You could try to get the powdered Rit and mix it with acetone. I’ve never tried it or heard of anyone trying that but it may work. 2: I’ve heard/read about people pouring a glue bed, separately mixing their Rit with glue, and then dripping the dyed glue onto the glue bed. Supposed it stays on top of the glue bed and let’s you swirl it. Never tried it though. 3: Mix your liquid/powder Rit in a squirt bottle with lotion or something else like Floetrol. Then squirt it out on a glue bed or lotion bed. You can do some cool designs and then swirl it. It won’t look like the disc in the video but can still look cool. 4: Make a lotion bed and drip the Rit directly on the lotion then swirl some if you want. You can get cool galaxy looking effect doing that. 🤙
Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. Mine aren't turning out very bright in color . Just took one out of the glue bed after being in it for 49 hours
Could be several different things. I’ve replied to a couple people who have had issues too. The big thing I’ve noticed is people not having the right dye. It needs to be ProChem “Active Dispersion” dye. Prochem sells different types but it needs to be the Active Dispersion, or the kind that is marketed for “disc golf dyes”. Other questions: what kind of plastic is it? Baseline plastic (like DX from Innova or X from Discraft) gives very soft or muted colors. The see-through plastic (Champion from Innova or Z from Discraft) also does the same. What ratio of dye to acetone are you using? If you don’t use enough dye powder, you’ll get muted colors. What is the temperature where your dye bed is sitting? Colder than normal room temperature can make it take much longer. Room temperature (>65F) or letting your bed sit out in the sun on a warm day are common best practices. Which colors are you using? A couple Prochem colors (like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest) require much more dye powder in the acetone and have to sit for several days for it to dissolve/absorb enough in the acetone. This is before you drop it in the glue bed. 🤙
@@warrenburns4998 Ok, the Opto plastic is probably the bulk of your problem. If Latitude 64 is your brand, you’ll get much better results using the Gold line plastic. The only time I get good saturation with plastics like Opto, are if I use a heat lamp….but even then it is nowhere near as bright of colors as you’ll get with Gold line plastic. But! You’ll also get much brighter colors if you switched from using RIT to iDye Poly or Prochem. 🤙
So this is the day after my first attempt, went in blind and happened to miss maybe the biggest ingredient: ACETONE. Needless to say, I’m doing round two later today 😂
one thing i want to tell others that are just starting to dye is that acetone is super flammable so if you are going to use a torch then make sure your dye is either closed or put away from the work area
Did dye my first disc ever using this method, and it turned out awesome, perhaps not 100% as expected - still awesome. Good video.
lol glad to hear. Pulling out the disc to see what it looks like can be an emotional moment. 😬🤩🤔😢🤬😎
Another great video. Thanks for showing the difference between clear glue and school glue!
No problem! I may do a stand-alone video showing the results of the two methods as well.
That zone you blew is amazing looking
Thanks. This has been the best explanation I’ve ever seen
I never thought that i would try this on my own discs until now. Thanks for the video!
Absolutely!! Hope you get some wicked results! 🤙
You are putting out some quality content, thank you!
Thank you much!! More to come shortly.
Thank you so much for this video. A lot of people do not give the ratio of acetone to dye. Thanks again for the tips!
Of course! I’ll be playing around with the amount of dye for doing a cell technique. 🤙
Waiting on my dye to come in so I can do my first glue dye. This was extremely helpful!
Nailed it bro, killer dyes!
Hey now! Celebrity appearance. 😎. Thanks, my dude.
Great tip to water down the white glue. I ordered 2 gallons of clear glue on amazon which turned out to be white... going to try to work with it
Yeah you can make it work. I’ve seen some pictures of results using off brand glues from Amazon so proceed with caution. 🤙
I would like to see that Discraft Zone that you showed at the end and how you did that. I like being able to see the original writing on the disc.
I can do that! It’s been a while since I’ve done dyes with that technique and I really dig how they come out. 🤙
Great video! I am about to dive into dying discs and this will be my reference for sure!
Great video! This whole time I knew you looked familiar 😅 i was with you at Robins. Great content bro
This is informative and awesome! Thank you
You’re very welcome! Thank you for the watch. 🤙
Thanks for the video I tried this technique using body lotion , frankly it didn’t come good . Will try it on glue next time . One tip for everyone whoever tries it for first time, donot remove the stamp because even if the dye doesn’t turn out good the stamp with Multi colour without swirl patter also will make ur disc look cool
I want the leopard print video!!! I'm experimenting with floetrol now.
lol yeah I need to put it together. Running tourneys and going fishing with the kiddos these last few weekends. I’ll put it up soon though! 🤙
The cell videos are up now if you haven’t seen them yet. 🤙
Hi! Jerod!!
I found your RUclips.^^ I'll subscribe.
Thank you much! I need to get working on another video for everyone. 🤙
Great video. I would live to know how you did the dye you showed at the end, where the Discraft logo stays on there and the dye seems to run behind it.
The stamp itself won’t dye! So instead of using acetone to get it off, just leave it on and dip as normal, and it’ll stay. The dye doesn’t effect the stamp
That disc is beautiful wish I could that for my husband disc but it’s not something I could do cause he would know I took his disc but it is beautiful
Well done videos. Keep it up!
Thank you much! 🤙
Awesome video
Thanks Kyle! 🤘
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you much! 🤙
Nice tutorial I used this to dye my first 2 discs, only thing I’d say is it is definitely not a quarter teaspoon of dye & the rest acetone. That didn’t work at all. I was using the same jar. I had to dump out around a quarter of the jar & put more dye in.
Really? I’ve always had luck with right at a 1/4 tsp or a heaping 1/4 tsp. The only time that isn’t true is with one or two newer colors like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest. I’ve found that those two need double or triple the amount of dye to get a good product. 🤙
great video thanks
You’re very welcome! Thanks for watching. 🤙
Have you ever tried using a heating pad for the disc to sit in? Saw in another comment that warmer conditions help it absorb the dye
Need more videos! How are you doing?
Great content man :D
Thank you much!! Doing well. I’ve been trying to perfect a couple cell dye techniques on top of going to a bunch of tournaments and going on missions - I’m in the Air Force. Next video will be up by the end of May and will be cells 2-3 ways. 🤙
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Awesome! I've been watching a bunch on dye videos and yours is easily the most accesible and understandable imo :D
Keep it up man, hope you're staying safe and well!
Beautiful!
Thank you! The best part is seeing it for the first time when washing it off. Love it. 🤙
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 for sure! I've tried a few none have come out like that though.
Great video! Keep them coming :)
Thank you much! I’ll be doing my spin on the cell dye technique very soon. Gotta play a tourney this weekend and then I’ll put it together.
Very nice! Question. You said mixing acetone to 1/4 teaspoon of dye. What size containers are those?
These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply! Discs look amazing! Great content! :)
Yeah. Followed what you said. It came out sick! Thanks for the great tutorial. Keep em coming!
@@evanrussell4275 Awesome! Glad to hear it. 🤙
Will the dye blend with the glue?
Thinking doing glue bed with the same type of dye mix used with lotion method.
Hesitant to hit the like button because it’s currently sitting at 420 ;)
Haha! I appreciate the hesitation. 🤙
Can you use the same glue bed twice?
I used this method, however, could not find the dyes you are using, but I did use the Ryt Dyes; question, when I was dripping the orange dye, it sank to the bottom. Is this normal?? It seemed to swirl together once I did it.
Yeah the dyes I use have to be bought online, unfortunately. Best dyes IMO though.
prochemicalanddye.net/disc-golf-disc-dyes.html
As far as the RIT, yes that will happen and it is no bueno. I’ve not experimented, but one guy commented on another video that you can mix the RIT with acetone and it will float on top of the glue. No idea on the ratio though. I’ve also heard of people mixing the RIT with glue or lotion and squirting that on top of the glue. Could turn out alright but I doubt it’ll look like the results in the video. 🤙
Do the disc still fly normal after you put your design on them?
Any problems with leftover glue going down the drain?
I put in a fusion bounty for 10 hrs and the dye just washed off, I figured just go for longer? Nothing adhered, so I’m wondering if my ratios are off. Pro Chem mixed with acetone and elmers washable glue.
Fusion definitely does take dye. I’ve had to leave it in a little longer though. Anything that is slightly opaque or clear gets at least 48 hrs in my beds. So Fusion, Champion, Z, 400/500 plastics.
Be sure to wash it off well with a scrubber too. I recently pulled out a 400 M3 and saw streaks on it which was probably leftover grease from the factory.
Make sure you’re putting enough dye in your acetone bottles too. You should have a decent layer of residue powder at the bottom of the jar/bottle. Don’t suck that up in your dropper, but that layer lets you know you have enough dye in your mix.
Hey just a quick question. What technique do you feel provides the best color and most “professional” dyes?
I think if you can get real good at intricate stencils, that where the most prestige is...especially among dyers. Check out @discdyeingdotcom on IG (Keith Leimpa). Dude’s stencil work is insane. That’s just my opinion though. Glue bed swirls can be pretty sick if you expand and play with your color palette. @pipedreamer79 for reference. I got into disc dyeing for the cell bed techniques. @TiffanyShaw54573 @B13_disc_design and @luckydyesdg have some really sweet examples. I also really dig the work from @daddymacdyes, although his technique is on a glue bed and isn’t cells. If you got good at any of those styles, you’d have lots of customers/respect.
As far as the best color, glue beds are my preference. Some of the colors out there are better than others whether you use ProChem, iDye Poly or any others. Some colors just don’t work too well in glue for some reason. Lotion beds/lotion dyes look pretty sweet too as far as color saturation.
Have you noticed any issues with your acetone and dye powder mix with disc you dye with the stamp still on? Curious before I try it. Since we remove the stamp with acetone if you've seen the stamp come off with the acetone/dye powder mix. Thanks!
I’ve done several where I left the stamp on the disc and they came out fine. You just want to let the dye bed sit for 10-15 minutes before dropping a disc in. If you put the disc in real quick then the acetone can eat away the stamp while it’s dying.
Have you ever had the dye transfer onto your hands after you have dyed it?
I’ve never deliberately tried to put my hand in a dye bed, but I’ve got plenty of dye on my skin before. Wearing some sort of latex glove is advisable. 🤙
Does neutron plastic need 8-12 hours or 24+
Curious, does this method effect the texture or weight of the discs? Great video btw.
For the weight, no. I’ve weighed before and after and haven’t seen any weight change. It’s an approved method as far as PDGA rules as long as you use dye. If you use an acrylic paint or something, that will alter the weight and it’s not legal anymore for sanctioned play.
For the texture, it won’t alter texture if you do it right. There is a possibility if you wipe the stamp with acetone and scrub too much. Or if you put waaaay too much acetone based dye and then quickly put your disc in. The acetone can “burn” the disc and make it feel more like construction paper instead of a glass smoothness.
Hey, I tried this technique on a ESP disc multiple times but it’s just not dying? Am I doing something wrong? Or could it be because it’s older plastic?
It’s not dying at all? Super weird. ESP takes dye like a champ.
First question: what kind of dye are you using? If it’s iDye, make sure the package says “iDye Poly”. If you’re using ProChem, make sure you have the “Active Dispersion” dye or the ones marketed specifically as “disc golf dyes”. Both companies sell different types of dyes and the other types don’t work well or don’t work at all.
Quick question: Can you mix idye poly with Acetone just as you did with the ProChem powder?
You sure can! Most people mix with Acetone but some also mix with Denatured Alcohol. I’ve never done glue bed dyes with an alcohol mix but I do use an alcohol mix with spin dyes. It takes longer for the color to stick to the plastic but it’s way easier to get good fading when spin dying.
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 Thank you. I have some ProChem colors on the way and looking forward to trying to improve on my dyes. Appreciate your videos and reply.
Thanks for the video. Been doing spin dyes with my record player which has been great but the splatter effect with the glue is amazing. Question for you: does purple and hot pink take a lot longer than other colors? It seems that way for me. Thanks!
Much respect! Spin dyes can be quite the challenge. I haven’t really seen too much in terms of colors taking longer. The big thing I have seen is certain colors requiring much more dye and mixing times with acetone, in order to get good colors on the disc - namely Caribbean blue and lemon zest. 🤙
Nice vid man. I'm doing my first dye right now with rit synthetic mixed 3:1 with acetone in a white glue bed. I tried last night without acetone and this morning it was very, very faint. Hopefully the acetone will help it permeate the plastic. For what it's worth, it's a latitude 64 keystone I'm doing. Any input?
I’ve not tried mixing Rit with acetone for a glue bed....should work tho. As far as advice, make sure you’re using Gold plastic. Opto, Zero or their other plastics could be the reason you’re getting faint colors. I never get good results with baseline plastics (Zero, DX, Pro D, Jawbreaker, etc) or somewhat see-through plastic (Champion, Z, Opto, etc...). They are always faint results.
I was wondering if you could answer a question? I tried this but didnt work. I'm guessing it was one of two things or both. What plastics take the dye? I think I tried it on cheaper plastic that didn't take it. Also I tried Rit dye with it, does this dye work? Would it work if I mixed it with acetone?
So you definitely want to stick to the premium plastics - Innova Star, Discraft ESP, Dynamic Discs Fuzion, Latitude 64 Gold Line, MVP Neutron...that type of plastic from any of the companies. The baseline/cheap plastics do take plastic but it usually comes out faded or fades very quickly if it does take the dye. The more clear type plastics can also take dye but those need to sit for at least 2-3 days for the dye to take and even then, it won’t be as vibrant as the Star, ESP, etc types.
Rit maaaay work if you got the powder type and mixed it with acetone. I’ve never tried it tho. If you get the liquid Rit, that will not work in glue. I think the best way to use Rit is to use the pre-mixed Rit and squirt it directly on a bed of lotion or conditioner/shampoo and swirl it. The swirls won’t come out as defined/crisp as the glue method but it does allow the dye to absorb in the plastic.
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 bought some pro cem and the first disc turned out pretty cool!
@@kimballlloyd1127 Awesome!! Glad to hear! If you’ve done the basic ‘drip and swirl’ technique, I’d suggest trying dripping in all your colors, swirl them, and then use a straw to blow all the swirls around. Gives it a different type of look that looks pretty sweet. 🤙
Why can’t more of the 14k people who watched subscribe 😭
lol that’s ok. I’m not looking to make money or anything. I rarely even sell discs, I just donate to local clubs or children/veteran associations. Just a hobby. 🤙
Hey so quick question, would Dynamic Discs “Lucid” plastic work with this method? or does it involve a specific dying process?
How long should I keep it in for a z or champion plastic disc?
In short, I don’t dye them. If you’re dead set on it, I’d leave in bare minimum of 24 hrs....48 hrs if possible. I’ve done several tests by leaving them in 24-48 hours, with or without a heat pad, dye mixed with with straight acetone vs mixed with lotion etc....and it never comes out with bright/saturated colors when compared to Star/ESP/500g etc. The only way I’d recommend Z/Champion style plastic is if you’re doing a stencil and doing a hot dip with black. Those turn out fine.
What size are the jars? I dont want to mess up the ratios
These are bead organizers and it doesn’t say the size. They’re about 2” tall x 2” diameter. I’d say....around 1/8th cup. You could prolly go up to 1/2 cup or a little more. After you mix it and shake it up, there should be sediment on the bottom after it settles. That’s a good indicator that your acetone is saturated. 🤙
Can you use clear glue and food coloring
Mmmm....you may get some of the dye to stick but I highly doubt it will come out meeting expectations. I’ve never heard of anyone trying it. Prolly best to stick to the common dyes like ProChem, iDye Poly, Worm Dip or Spike it!.
Does the glue method affect the flight of the discs at all?
Nope not at all. Just makes it look cool. 😎
Awesomenessssss! Going to be attempting this later this week. Thanks for the above quality video instructional!
If my dye comes out looking like trash can I bleach or fade it out and re-dye it again some how?
That’s a negative. I’ve tried several things but haven’t been able to recover a bad dye. If you pull a disc out within a couple minutes you can “erase” most of the dye with acetone....if you’re quick enough. But using this glue/swirl method, that dye isn’t coming off after 8+ hours.
Ive got a good stack of failed attempts that are donation collection. You could dye it black or a color that covers up a bad dye but that’s about it.
If i want to leave the stamp on and use a stencil, how would i go about it?
Leaving the stamp on is no problem. Be sure to clean the disc with soap/water and a magic eraser if you can. Do your swirls and let the bed sit for 10-15 minutes and your good. That lets the alcohol/acetone evaporate and it won’t mess with the stamp.
Stencils is a whole separate topic. Have you done any stencils before?
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i am currently doing a shaving cream bed with a stencil on a beginners disc (sensei from discmania). my first ever dye-job to it's mostly a tester :)
@@fufashi Gotchya. If it’s S Line plastic, you should be set. For some reason, most Sensei’s I’ve seen recently are the base line plastic…P Line? If that’s what you’ve got, it should absorb the dye but the colors won’t be very bright. Same thing if you were using DX plastic from Innova, X from Disctraft, etc…
So yeah, tons of ways to cut out the stencil on your laminated paper and then get it on the disc. The hard part is making sure that it’s centered to not offset the stencil you’re leaving on. That can take some practice.
If you’re sprinkling your powder on the shaving cream, spray it with a little water and you’re good to go. If you spray it with alcohol/acetone or if you’re using a mixed dye that has alcohol/acetone in it, just let it sit for 10-15 min before putting your disc in.
Is there any harm in leaving the disc sit too long in the dye/glue?
I imagine there is, but I’ve never tested it. The standard soak time that most all dyers use is somewhere between 12-24 hours. The only time I go over that is if I’m dying a see-through plastic like Champion, Z, Opto…C line…something like that. I leave those for 48 hours.
What is your prochem to acetone ratio that you use?
I use a rounded 1/4 tsp of dye mixed with 1/8-1/4 cup acetone. After you mix it up, there should still be some powder residue at the bottom. If there isn’t, you need to add some more dye.
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 thank you so much for getting back to me! Those are some helpful tips!
Hey we tried to dye some disc with pro chemical dye. Let them sit for 11 hours and it all just came off any advice
Oh wow! Three things. What kind of plastic were you using? How much powder dye did you put in your acetone? And how did you clean the disc before putting it in the bed?
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 i used star plastic, cleaned it with a magic eraser and and half a teaspoon in 2 oz jars
@@seantillotson51 Hmmm...Super weird. I’ve had some older Star plastic not take dye well but it did take some color at least. Maybe you’re over swirling? Have you tried any other discs since your post?
@@haytraindiscgolf4697 yes I tried re mixing my dyes with more dye powder. And we even then them sit for 30 hours and no due stuck. So I’m thinking it might be a problem with the dye
@@seantillotson51 that’s super wild. You should definitely be getting results. Do you know which type of ProChem dye you got? The sell a few types. On their website, you need to get the Active Dispersion (I think they call it “Prosperse Disperse Dyes” on their site) , or the dye that’s marketed as Disc Golf Dye (it’s the same as the other type but has some other colors).
beautiful😍
Does anyone know if using Rit Dyemore Synthetic would work instead of powdered/acetone mixtures for this method?
That’s a negative my dude, assuming you’re using the liquid variety. I’ve tried and it drops straight down in the glue to the bottom of the cell bed. You’ll nearly always get better colors from ProChem (the Active Dispersion type) or iDye Poly. But! If you’re dead set on using Rit, you have a few options:
1: You could try to get the powdered Rit and mix it with acetone. I’ve never tried it or heard of anyone trying that but it may work.
2: I’ve heard/read about people pouring a glue bed, separately mixing their Rit with glue, and then dripping the dyed glue onto the glue bed. Supposed it stays on top of the glue bed and let’s you swirl it. Never tried it though.
3: Mix your liquid/powder Rit in a squirt bottle with lotion or something else like Floetrol. Then squirt it out on a glue bed or lotion bed. You can do some cool designs and then swirl it. It won’t look like the disc in the video but can still look cool.
4: Make a lotion bed and drip the Rit directly on the lotion then swirl some if you want. You can get cool galaxy looking effect doing that.
🤙
How do you dye the rim of the disc?
How many ounces are those jars?
How much weight does it add tho?
Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. Mine aren't turning out very bright in color . Just took one out of the glue bed after being in it for 49 hours
Could be several different things. I’ve replied to a couple people who have had issues too. The big thing I’ve noticed is people not having the right dye. It needs to be ProChem “Active Dispersion” dye. Prochem sells different types but it needs to be the Active Dispersion, or the kind that is marketed for “disc golf dyes”.
Other questions: what kind of plastic is it? Baseline plastic (like DX from Innova or X from Discraft) gives very soft or muted colors. The see-through plastic (Champion from Innova or Z from Discraft) also does the same.
What ratio of dye to acetone are you using? If you don’t use enough dye powder, you’ll get muted colors.
What is the temperature where your dye bed is sitting? Colder than normal room temperature can make it take much longer. Room temperature (>65F) or letting your bed sit out in the sun on a warm day are common best practices.
Which colors are you using? A couple Prochem colors (like Caribbean Blue or Lemon Zest) require much more dye powder in the acetone and have to sit for several days for it to dissolve/absorb enough in the acetone. This is before you drop it in the glue bed.
🤙
I used Rit Dye More liquid dye .
Also it was opto plastic from latitude 64
@@warrenburns4998 Ok, the Opto plastic is probably the bulk of your problem. If Latitude 64 is your brand, you’ll get much better results using the Gold line plastic. The only time I get good saturation with plastics like Opto, are if I use a heat lamp….but even then it is nowhere near as bright of colors as you’ll get with Gold line plastic.
But!
You’ll also get much brighter colors if you switched from using RIT to iDye Poly or Prochem.
🤙
Подскажите название краски, не токсичная?
So this is the day after my first attempt, went in blind and happened to miss maybe the biggest ingredient: ACETONE. Needless to say, I’m doing round two later today 😂
Awww, bummer. lol Been there, done that. Running out of supplies is the worst. Good luck!! 🤙
Wow❤🎉
Open acetone. Open flame
You really shouldn't be washing glue down your drain lol, especially that much. Love the work though. Cheers 🍻
This is just a sweet water promo
Awesome result but man, you just pour this ammount of glue straight down the drain? Like damn. Thats gotta be so bad for so so many reasons.
Yeah it kinda bugs me too. I don’t know any other way to dispose of it though. Like...how does one dispose of glue? lol. It says non-toxic. 🤷♂️
I would definitely rather just put it in a trash bag and toss out before down the drain.
I let it get hard and pull it out and straight in the trash.
😴
lol too long for ya?
No great job those discs look very good.. Can't believe it's that easy