I can never get enough of watching masters like yourself ply their trades. Its as if i had joined you working in your shop; something i would give anything to do. If you need an apprentice, please consider me and let me know...
You have a wealth of ship building knowledge and a ton of common sense. What you don't know, you figure out. Your videos are addicting! Take care friend!
this man is the master of not only boat building, but description and explanation, he is just perfect at it, he would have made an incredible school teacher,,,,lol just an observation
This is how we make airplane vertical and horizontal trailing and side edge support frames that must be rounded. It works really well. Thanks for sharing. Keith Noneya
I have done a lot of curved laminate work for my home building ventures and found that wrapping the laminations after glue up and before clamping to the form with plastic shrink wrap helps quite a bit with keeping the laminates from "squirming".
As I was watching the previous video on steam bending, I said to myself that I would laminate that member. I thought that it would be tricky to get that steam bent piece to lay up in there without twisting and being too springy. I had to chuckle a bit when I saw that we reached the same conclusion; each by a different path. But, it turns out to be a good thing because you get to show folks both methods and the potential benefits and pitfalls of each. This is a wonderful set of video on the 12&1/2. Thanks for posting.
I love watching your videos. You have a very common-sensical way of explaining what you're doing and, most importantly, WHY you're doing it that way. Question: You have a wonderful collection of large bar clamps with 6" - 8" throats on them. Do you know who makes them, and or where I can purchase them?
This is really neat. Lou, if you didn't have access to a good quality timber to make a knee or a high-stress part, could laminated parts like this get substituted without substantially weakening the structure? Well, better put, is the laminated part stronger than the one piece of timber it replaces?
The teeth allows for the glue to spread flat when two pieces are pressed together. Prevents glue pooling. Also allows air to escape between the two pieces when pressed together.
7:03 the first clampand tape covered blocks should be set across to keep the little slats to slide laterally out of alignement. one in the middle and on both ends.
Is there any benefit to sandwiching fiberglass between each piece of plywood? Thinking about using unidirectional cloth on a leeboard I plan on making for a sailing canoe. Would that help to prevent it from flexing as much?
3:11 how about setting all boards down on the table, use a wide metal spatula to lay the glue on all of them at once then corrugate the glue? keep the boards tight with blocs clamp to the table...
Theoretically speaking, what would be better a. a piece of bent wood or b. a laminate or c. a piece cut from a curved wood, so a piece where the grain goes straight along the bend just like in a bent wood piece? This is all hypothetical since finding the right piece would be difficult.
7:57 did you forget to put some tape on those vertical pieces? Should there not be one on both side of the laminate because of the tons of glue you have there..?
Shame the white oak forefoot recoiled why didn't you just over over-correct it? I think the plastic bag under the clampforce sealed and shielded the outside length from the steam flow.
I hate myself, O Master, for bringing down to earth such low questions, but risking my skin, may I humbly ask, how high the co$t of a repair like this would run ?
3:52 just on side would be fine, you are going to put so much pressure on the boards your could have used half the number of boards thicker. That compound epoxy is not the right type, there is one out of a can much more fluide.
It's refreshing to see a RUclips personality who is humble enough to tell you that their first try didn't turn out as planned. Subscribed!
I can never get enough of watching masters like yourself ply their trades. Its as if i had joined you working in your shop; something i would give anything to do. If you need an apprentice, please consider me and let me know...
You have a wealth of ship building knowledge and a ton of common sense. What you don't know, you figure out. Your videos are addicting! Take care friend!
this man is the master of not only boat building, but description and explanation, he is just perfect at it, he would have made an incredible school teacher,,,,lol just an observation
Fantastic... listening to Louis is like listing to music!
Nice job of expressing your thoughts and adjusting to the fasted way.. True carpenter.
Such a pleasure watching your videos
This is how we make airplane vertical and horizontal trailing and side edge support frames that must be rounded. It works really well. Thanks for sharing. Keith Noneya
This guy is a real pro. Knows what he's doing.
You Sir, are a GENIUS. Thanks so much for sharing👍
Stupendous Louis! Thank you.
I have done a lot of curved laminate work for my home building ventures and found that wrapping the laminations after glue up and before clamping to the form with plastic shrink wrap helps quite a bit with keeping the laminates from "squirming".
As I was watching the previous video on steam bending, I said to myself that I would laminate that member. I thought that it would be tricky to get that steam bent piece to lay up in there without twisting and being too springy. I had to chuckle a bit when I saw that we reached the same conclusion; each by a different path. But, it turns out to be a good thing because you get to show folks both methods and the potential benefits and pitfalls of each. This is a wonderful set of video on the 12&1/2. Thanks for posting.
This guy is a marvel. I'd love to work for him
Another great video to help me through my restoration. Thanks.
Words of wisdom from this old venerable
Kudos, clearly demonstrated
Looking good!!!👍💯👌
Thank you for sharing.
I love watching your videos. You have a very common-sensical way of explaining what you're doing and, most importantly, WHY you're doing it that way.
Question: You have a wonderful collection of large bar clamps with 6" - 8" throats on them. Do you know who makes them, and or where I can purchase them?
Richa still makes a decent bar clamp. Mine are from the fifties and the new ones are almost as well made.
This is really neat. Lou, if you didn't have access to a good quality timber to make a knee or a high-stress part, could laminated parts like this get substituted without substantially weakening the structure? Well, better put, is the laminated part stronger than the one piece of timber it replaces?
The teeth allows for the glue to spread flat when two pieces are pressed together. Prevents glue pooling. Also allows air to escape between the two pieces when pressed together.
7:03 the first clampand tape covered blocks should be set across to keep the little slats to slide laterally out of alignement. one in the middle and on both ends.
Is there any benefit to sandwiching fiberglass between each piece of plywood? Thinking about using unidirectional cloth on a leeboard I plan on making for a sailing canoe. Would that help to prevent it from flexing as much?
Can you explain why you used GFlex versus a conventional epoxy?
3:11 how about setting all boards down on the table, use a wide metal spatula to lay the glue on all of them at once then corrugate the glue? keep the boards tight with blocs clamp to the table...
Excellent
Theoretically speaking, what would be better
a. a piece of bent wood
or
b. a laminate
or
c. a piece cut from a curved wood, so a piece where the grain goes straight along the bend just like in a bent wood piece?
This is all hypothetical since finding the right piece would be difficult.
What is the epoxy that you used? I looked at Jamestown and did not see it.
Epoxy and laminating techniques have really proven themselves over the last 20/30 years haven't they?
7:57 did you forget to put some tape on those vertical pieces? Should there not be one on both side of the laminate because of the tons of glue you have there..?
How did you cut out those laminates? Table saw? Did you plane them in a thickness planer? They look really uniform.
Bandsaw most likely
Shame the white oak forefoot recoiled why didn't you just over over-correct it? I think the plastic bag under the clampforce sealed and shielded the outside length from the steam flow.
I hate myself, O Master, for bringing down to earth such low questions, but risking my skin, may I humbly ask, how high the co$t of a repair like this would run ?
8:40 maybe more clamps on the top parts in the curve
If that was me, I'd put the putty knife straight through the plastic on the first pass.
Stupid question: why epoxy rather than wood glue?
deemdoubleu waterproof
And yes, the epoxy will cure very hard and you will have minimal creep.
3:52 just on side would be fine, you are going to put so much pressure on the boards your could have used half the number of boards thicker. That compound epoxy is not the right type, there is one out of a can much more fluide.
what the heck did the old timers they do before epoxy!
We had Weldwood resorcinol glue for wooden boats in the fifties.
I didn't know they used Yoghurt and Honey to build boats.