I’m so thankful to find this video. I got a big gap to fill for my bathroom that was done wrong. I asked around and no one gives any good advice. thank you
I have no one to help me and I can’t tell you how much this has helped me. I had no idea these filler rods existed. You explained this so clearly, I hope you’re teaching others to do this (apart from RUclips). You’ve made my life do much better today!!!!
This is exactly the video I was looking for. Went into a panic spiral at the use of mils to represent diameter, fortunately your accent calmed and soothed the anxiety.
@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT hey I just did this along the baseboard in my apt kitchen. Getting bugs from the apt on the other side and they basically have gone through and done the most idiotic and slapdash job =things look OK until you're living here and notice all the goofs and smh. Your accent is calming 😌
Funny thing is, 25 years ago I used to work on the roads installing weather stations. Part of this was putting sensors in the road to measure temperature and chemical concentrations, moisture etc, and we ran the cables back to to the base stations via slots in the road and we used that foam under and over the cable to protect it and to reduce the mount of polyester resin we needed to backfill the slot, since it was pigging expensive IIRC. Totally forgot about that until this video, and it would never have occurred to me to seek this stuff out for DIY. Nice one!
It doesn't seem to be one of them things that's common DIY knowledge, which is surprising really. Maybe it's only really needed on a project once in a blue moon so people just blow through a load of silicone without thinking 🤷♂️
Thank You for the video. Backer rod is great. You can also use any type of high density or medium density foam for most applications. Backer rod tends to be a lot more expensive and it not as easy to work with with larger gaps or with gaps that vary in size. Cheers from the Land Down Under.
When using silicone or mastic for an expansion joint it should only touch two faces. So backer rods are used to ensure the rear face does not touch a fixed surface, thus allowing for movement. It's a bonus that you also save on silicone too.
The key word here is "two." A thick application of caulk acts like a third surface that stresses the other two, Google [JLConline FineHomebuilding backer-rod] to see why the thinner application is better. It is less likely to pull away from the two faces that you wish to seal. This is important but not intuitive. The thick caulk actually stresses the adhesion to the two important surfaces. Remember that the backer rod is so flexible that it cannot stress the cured caulk.
Wish I saw this a few months ago. I re-ran beads of sealant around my tub and it wasnt the greatest job... (first time trying!) I def could have done with some of these. Im going to rip it out, grab some backer rod and try again. Cheers!
Used these foam rods in the expansion gap on my concrete driveway. Generally speaking, expansion joints should be no farther apart than 2 to 3 times the total width of the concrete your laying. Sealed the rod in with a grey mastic sealant.
Can you use this foam "backing rod" in a shower where the faucet comes away from the wall to caulk? The distance is about 1/2 inch away from the wall (this faucet is the bathtub spout, where I have to pull the bottom faucet ring to get the shower to come on daily).
I don't mean to giggle that a lot of people have never heard of or seen these foam rods before. My dad used them all the time for different projects around the house back in the 70's when I was a kid. I'm guilty of having a crap ton of the assorted sizes at my mom's house for sealing the gaps around the window air conditioner to keep the cold in and the heat and wasps out. Handy in her basement also for filling gaping cracks and then using spray foam over them to get a good air tight seal. (note: she has a low ceiling, cellar type basement with cinder blocks)
I really, really hope I remember this on that future job when it's going to be exactly what I need. Ta Also - - - That Stanley knife at 3:10, is a great one. Had mine for ages, and Toolstation (hashtag not sponsored) have started selling them recently
Most caulking manufactures suggest that you stuff the the backer rod in far enough to allow your caulk joint to be about half as deep as it is wide, but never more than 1/2” deep
Just found your channel! Briliant advice on both the vids I've watched so far. I have subscribed but I have gaps behind the channel that the shower cubicle fixes into, not only a channel that the glass panels slot into but a channel behind the metal insert that screws into the wall. The wall is also mega uneven in places so I need to fill the gap, I'm guessing this is the product I need to stop the sealant oozing into the gap and not being so difficult to seal afterwards. Also I'm sure it will help with waterproofing and keeping the screws from corroding from any water that might get in later down the line.
Foam backing rod is not just for using less caulk, it also acts as a bond breaker which prevents the caulk from bonding to the substrate, which makes the caulk less flexible and more prone to failure.
Hi is this rod water proof, just had a quite big gap between shower base and wall, it was leaking so I removed old silicone but now thinking how to fixed as only silicone won't do the job
We have a hole in each of our cupboards into the loft, where there were tv aerials from previous owners. What would be the best way to fill these holes? S
Probably a silly question but what's the likelihood of the foam tubes going mouldy with water exposure? Need to fill a massive gap between the bathroom wall and tub edge, and don't want any potential leaks ruining my efforts 💀
Ta :) Do you pop a hole in the end of the silicone tube to stop the silicone pumping out after you depress it? I haven’t tried it yet but historicallyI’ve lost miles of silicone/caulk that way.
Oh no you just release the tension, so just push the metal bit at the back of the gun so it let's go of the bar and it'll stop. You just need to get into the habit of doing it as soon as you stop. I mostly use my electric gun and have to do something similar
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT someone said if you wrap tape around the mastic tube before starting the plastic tube won't expand when pulling the trigger so when you release the trigger it will stop coming out straight away.Do another video and let me know if it works
What if you have a tapered gap, starting from 25mm down to 1mm? The length of the try is 90cm. Would you suggest that I cut 30mm half way, then use a 20/15mm? Thank you for responding to all the comments by the way.
I was told that to fill even larger gaps you can twist two pieces of rod together and stuff it in the gap. 👍 A windows installer told me this....which unfortunately was needed to fill the huge gaps around the uPvc windows he was installing. Some cowboy outfit whose name begins with 'A' and ends with 'Home UN-Improvements'!! That was fun dealing with those cowboys.....but what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.....apparently!
Twisting the backer rod is a very bad idea. Backer rod does threee things that are essential. 1. It controls depth 2. It forces the sealant against the sides of the joint when you tool it. 3 It provides the proper profile for the sealant. Which is non existent when you twist the rod. The person that told you this was absolutely wrong. You should never do it since backer rod is available n sizes from 1/4” to 4”
@@genecarden780 Thanks. This was 'advice' from a cowboy company of windows installers (one of the big outfits in UK). I assumed that at least a tiny bit of what they told me was correct. It turns out that EVERYTHING they told me was false. No real surprise. Some people don't know how to tell the truth....or perhaps they have just been taught by other cowboys (ingrained bad practices). Your explanation makes perfect sense 👍
@@Sean006 no problem there is a LOT of bad advice out there. And unfortunately a lot of it comes from so called “ experts” . Most of the RUclips videos on this subject are wrong, in one way or another. I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years now. I just want homeowners to have the best chance for success. But sometimes “ pros” really anger me with there ignorance. A window installer should know the basics.
ASTM has documentation explaining backer rods, and good manufacturers provide technical documentation with best practices. A proper installation with a backer rod or tape will prevent too much sealant from touching too much surface area. If there's too much sealant, the expansion and contraction of thermal cycling will cause the sealant to rip itself apart or break adhesion from a surface. Think of the sealant like your arm muscle and the adhesion like your hand: having a really strong arm that rips your hand off everything you grab would be counter-productive, lol! This is also the main reason silicone is tooled (to reduce the thickness in the middle compared to the sides that do the real work adhering)
I tell you what, there is no end to David Beckhams talent…… Man Utd hero, Cpt of England, being able to live with Posh Spice for more than 6 mths and now teaching me how to sort my shower room out !!!! Seriously, thanks for the advice …………and did you really have to kick Ronaldinho during the World Cup??? Thanks chap 😀
Your mastic should have been a little deeper (half the width) and did you know you can buy tooling sticks from the manufacturer's. Tooling being the main word not spreading it in a mess.
Also sometimes I share this, the Bible says that GOD loves us so much that he sent his son JESUS CHRIST to this earth and HE lived a perfect sinless life.And JESUS went to a cross and gave HIS life for us.And rose again in 3 days and who ever will receive JESUS AS THEIR SAVIOR AND ASK HIM TO COME INTO THEIR HEART AND FORGIVE THEIR SINS,HE WILL TAKE YOU TO HEAVEN.
Buy foam rods here: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/theaidenproject/list/36HOSBEGG9KPA
Thanks for the tips, appreciate it mate
I’m so thankful to find this video. I got a big gap to fill for my bathroom that was done wrong. I asked around and no one gives any good advice. thank you
I have no one to help me and I can’t tell you how much this has helped me. I had no idea these filler rods existed. You explained this so clearly, I hope you’re teaching others to do this (apart from RUclips). You’ve made my life do much better today!!!!
You're very welcome! ☺️
Why have I only heard of this stuff now? It makes way more sense! Thanks Aiden!
No probs 👍
After 50 years of DIY, now I find this! Thank you.
This is exactly the video I was looking for. Went into a panic spiral at the use of mils to represent diameter, fortunately your accent calmed and soothed the anxiety.
😂 awesome
@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT hey I just did this along the baseboard in my apt kitchen. Getting bugs from the apt on the other side and they basically have gone through and done the most idiotic and slapdash job =things look OK until you're living here and notice all the goofs and smh. Your accent is calming 😌
Did not know they existed LOL. Thanks. The comparison jig you set up was useful, looks like I'll save quite a bit of caulking.
I wonder how many other useful things we don't know exist when it comes to DIY 🤔
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Honestly
Funny thing is, 25 years ago I used to work on the roads installing weather stations. Part of this was putting sensors in the road to measure temperature and chemical concentrations, moisture etc, and we ran the cables back to to the base stations via slots in the road and we used that foam under and over the cable to protect it and to reduce the mount of polyester resin we needed to backfill the slot, since it was pigging expensive IIRC. Totally forgot about that until this video, and it would never have occurred to me to seek this stuff out for DIY. Nice one!
It doesn't seem to be one of them things that's common DIY knowledge, which is surprising really. Maybe it's only really needed on a project once in a blue moon so people just blow through a load of silicone without thinking 🤷♂️
Seeing the cutaway view is super helpul. Thanks!
Thank you, I needed to fill a big gap in our door frame and this helps a lot!
This video really filled in the gaps for me!
@@WilliamCrain-u6k weheeey 😆
Lavlly jabbly mate. Heard about the rod just needed the sizing. 👍
Thank You for the video. Backer rod is great. You can also use any type of high density or medium density foam for most applications. Backer rod tends to be a lot more expensive and it not as easy to work with with larger gaps or with gaps that vary in size.
Cheers from the Land Down Under.
Hey that's a good idea. I have 2 strange holes (not parallel gaps) in my floors and a large gap under one skirting board. I will try foam board👍
When using silicone or mastic for an expansion joint it should only touch two faces. So backer rods are used to ensure the rear face does not touch a fixed surface, thus allowing for movement. It's a bonus that you also save on silicone too.
Someone commented something similar 3 weeks ago, I wish I would have known this before so I could put it in the video 🙂
The key word here is "two." A thick application of caulk acts like a third surface that stresses the other two, Google [JLConline FineHomebuilding backer-rod] to see why the thinner application is better. It is less likely to pull away from the two faces that you wish to seal. This is important but not intuitive. The thick caulk actually stresses the adhesion to the two important surfaces. Remember that the backer rod is so flexible that it cannot stress the cured caulk.
Thank you so much! Terrific demonstration.
Love the table
Wish I saw this a few months ago. I re-ran beads of sealant around my tub and it wasnt the greatest job... (first time trying!) I def could have done with some of these. Im going to rip it out, grab some backer rod and try again. Cheers!
OMG. Perfect for what I need. I knew RUclips would help 👍👍👍
Outstanding 😂....this was what I was looking for. Great video 📹
How about expanding foam? Surely that would be ideal?
Used these foam rods in the expansion gap on my concrete driveway. Generally speaking, expansion joints should be no farther apart than 2 to 3 times the total width of the concrete your laying. Sealed the rod in with a grey mastic sealant.
Can you use this foam "backing rod" in a shower where the faucet comes away from the wall to caulk? The distance is about 1/2 inch away from the wall (this faucet is the bathtub spout, where I have to pull the bottom faucet ring to get the shower to come on daily).
That's great stuff, such a clever idea
I don't mean to giggle that a lot of people have never heard of or seen these foam rods before. My dad used them all the time for different projects around the house back in the 70's when I was a kid. I'm guilty of having a crap ton of the assorted sizes at my mom's house for sealing the gaps around the window air conditioner to keep the cold in and the heat and wasps out. Handy in her basement also for filling gaping cracks and then using spray foam over them to get a good air tight seal. (note: she has a low ceiling, cellar type basement with cinder blocks)
How this rob technique apply to the plaster coving on the ceiling? Can you make a demonstration video
@@sowhat3430 I think the video changed to mine before you managed to comment on the video you was watching
I really, really hope I remember this on that future job when it's going to be exactly what I need. Ta
Also - - - That Stanley knife at 3:10, is a great one. Had mine for ages, and Toolstation (hashtag not sponsored) have started selling them recently
Yeah the quickslide is good 👍 I lost mine though 😅 but I've got my own knife these days if you watch my latest video
Thanks for all this useful info.
My pleasure 👍
Thanks man! Just subbed. Appreciate the help
Ahaa glad you found it useful 👍
Great video sir. Thank you
😁
I knew about it. Because you mentioned it in the window installation episodes...
Well that's cheating 😄
Most caulking manufactures suggest that you stuff the the backer rod in far enough to allow your caulk joint to be about half as deep as it is wide, but never more than 1/2” deep
Good tip 👍
Just found your channel! Briliant advice on both the vids I've watched so far. I have subscribed but I have gaps behind the channel that the shower cubicle fixes into, not only a channel that the glass panels slot into but a channel behind the metal insert that screws into the wall. The wall is also mega uneven in places so I need to fill the gap, I'm guessing this is the product I need to stop the sealant oozing into the gap and not being so difficult to seal afterwards. Also I'm sure it will help with waterproofing and keeping the screws from corroding from any water that might get in later down the line.
Brilliant! Thank you!!
Any ideas have a wobbly slab under iron gate? Carnt take off gate before usay? Need to repoint but carnt lift and point at same time?
ruclips.net/video/AL1Xrd8IScY/видео.html
Can you cement over backing rod?
I probably wouldn't advise it. The backing rod is definitely more expensive than sand and cement also
Great video
Thanks Thomas 🙂
Can i use this behind my cabinets????
@@angeladaviasmith6922 if you've got a gap to fill yeah
Foam backing rod is not just for using less caulk, it also acts as a bond breaker which prevents the caulk from bonding to the substrate, which makes the caulk less flexible and more prone to failure.
Thanks for the video, much appreciated.
amazing, thanks!
Awesome but where do you buy foam rods??
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/theaidenproject/list/36HOSBEGG9KPA
Where can I buy these ? What are they called ?
@@iffyshaikh952 I get mine online, there's an Amazon link in my pinned comment. They're called foam backer rods
Wow impressive 👍🤭
Hi is this rod water proof, just had a quite big gap between shower base and wall, it was leaking so I removed old silicone but now thinking how to fixed as only silicone won't do the job
@@jakub2611 I'm pretty sure it doesn't absorb water like a sponge. As long as you put silicone over the top I think it'll be fine
If I can’t get my hands on foam backer quickly, would cutting pipe insulation to size do the same job?
@@stuarthay1 Yep, that'll do
Thanks Aiden
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECTliked and subbed.
We have a hole in each of our cupboards into the loft, where there were tv aerials from previous owners. What would be the best way to fill these holes? S
What material are the holes in?
Probably a silly question but what's the likelihood of the foam tubes going mouldy with water exposure? Need to fill a massive gap between the bathroom wall and tub edge, and don't want any potential leaks ruining my efforts 💀
Anything would go mouldy with the right amount of moisture and heat when you think about it. You should aim to get a good seal from the offset. 👍
Ta :) Do you pop a hole in the end of the silicone tube to stop the silicone pumping out after you depress it? I haven’t tried it yet but historicallyI’ve lost miles of silicone/caulk that way.
Oh no you just release the tension, so just push the metal bit at the back of the gun so it let's go of the bar and it'll stop. You just need to get into the habit of doing it as soon as you stop. I mostly use my electric gun and have to do something similar
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT just let me kick myself 😂
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT someone said if you wrap tape around the mastic tube before starting the plastic tube won't expand when pulling the trigger so when you release the trigger it will stop coming out straight away.Do another video and let me know if it works
Never worked for me. Might try the Great Stuff.
Pool noodles from the dollar store is what I use. Cheaper! Cut to size.
Good idea
What if you have a tapered gap, starting from 25mm down to 1mm? The length of the try is 90cm.
Would you suggest that I cut 30mm half way, then use a 20/15mm?
Thank you for responding to all the comments by the way.
Yeah that sounds like a sensible idea, I've used 2 different thicknesses in the same gap without any problems
Saw it a week back, thanks to a RUclips short. If you like one caulking video, you'll then get served about 1,000 caulking videos..
ah the joys of the algorithm
Yes rodders
Where can you buy it please?
amzn.to/3MsTTTz
You can just use your finger or rag to seal up.
I was told that to fill even larger gaps you can twist two pieces of rod together and stuff it in the gap. 👍
A windows installer told me this....which unfortunately was needed to fill the huge gaps around the uPvc windows he was installing. Some cowboy outfit whose name begins with 'A' and ends with 'Home UN-Improvements'!!
That was fun dealing with those cowboys.....but what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.....apparently!
Well that's handy to know. Sounds like a pretty big gap though 😬
Twisting the backer rod is a very bad idea. Backer rod does threee things that are essential.
1. It controls depth
2. It forces the sealant against the sides of the joint when you tool it.
3 It provides the proper profile for the sealant. Which is non existent when you twist the rod.
The person that told you this was absolutely wrong.
You should never do it since backer rod is available n sizes from 1/4” to 4”
@@genecarden780 Thanks. This was 'advice' from a cowboy company of windows installers (one of the big outfits in UK). I assumed that at least a tiny bit of what they told me was correct. It turns out that EVERYTHING they told me was false. No real surprise. Some people don't know how to tell the truth....or perhaps they have just been taught by other cowboys (ingrained bad practices).
Your explanation makes perfect sense 👍
@@Sean006 no problem there is a LOT of bad advice out there. And unfortunately a lot of it comes from so called “ experts” . Most of the RUclips videos on this subject are wrong, in one way or another.
I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years now. I just want homeowners to have the best chance for success.
But sometimes “ pros” really anger me with there ignorance. A window installer should know the basics.
ASTM has documentation explaining backer rods, and good manufacturers provide technical documentation with best practices.
A proper installation with a backer rod or tape will prevent too much sealant from touching too much surface area. If there's too much sealant, the expansion and contraction of thermal cycling will cause the sealant to rip itself apart or break adhesion from a surface. Think of the sealant like your arm muscle and the adhesion like your hand: having a really strong arm that rips your hand off everything you grab would be counter-productive, lol! This is also the main reason silicone is tooled (to reduce the thickness in the middle compared to the sides that do the real work adhering)
Ahhh that's super interesting and makes perfect sense now you've mentioned it 👍
I tell you what, there is no end to David Beckhams talent…… Man Utd hero, Cpt of England, being able to live with Posh Spice for more than 6 mths and now teaching me how to sort my shower room out !!!!
Seriously, thanks for the advice …………and did you really have to kick Ronaldinho during the World Cup???
Thanks chap 😀
😂🤣😂
Your mastic should have been a little deeper (half the width) and did you know you can buy tooling sticks from the manufacturer's. Tooling being the main word not spreading it in a mess.
Caulking and pva
Also sometimes I share this, the Bible says that GOD loves us so much that he sent his son JESUS CHRIST to this earth and HE lived a perfect sinless life.And JESUS went to a cross and gave HIS life for us.And rose again in 3 days and who ever will receive JESUS AS THEIR SAVIOR AND ASK HIM TO COME INTO THEIR HEART AND FORGIVE THEIR SINS,HE WILL TAKE YOU TO HEAVEN.