Peltonen M95 & M07 Ranger Puukko Knives 1 year review
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Peltonen M95 & M07 Ranger Puukko Knives 1 year review
Long over due, here is a 1 year review on the Peltonen M95 & M07 Ranger Puukko Knives
Blessings, The OCD Hunter
They can be purchased at www.lamnia.com
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says the Lord.
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Развлечения
thanks great review of actual use
Thank you for the review!
I'm always happy to see a thoroughly worn knife in a review 😄👍
Thx for watching and taking time to comment! Blessings the ocd hunter.
They are good for what they are
I own both with the cerakote finish not the Teflon
If yours are the Teflon it would explain the ferro rod issue
Are they good for
Bushcraft? There are better
Hunting? There are better
Combat? There are better
Better than Mora?
They certainly are more expensive but you get more on average with these blades
If you just want a cheap but effective bushcraft blade - Mora
Hunting - pick out something application purposed
Combat - better even cheaper options
Great versatile blade?
Cold steel SRK
Still, I like these particularly the M-07 and would be able to
Make use of it under a variety of scenarios
My go to blades, personally are Willam Collins or LT Wright ✌️🇺🇸
Very nice Review. Thank you very much 😊
Thank you for watching! And commenting, blessings the ocd hunter
They do offer both of those with cerakote, but it appears yours are the standard models with the Teflon (PTFE)blade coating.
You know I pulled the spec of the site, I might have done the wrong version. I had lamnia.com watch too and they missed that too. Thanks for the catch! Blessings, the ocd hunter.
@@TheOCDHunter I have the M95 standard Teflon coating and I’m really impressed with it.
@@ixlr8tyes I was impressed too. Not my favorite knife but definitely dependable!
I agree.
Thanks for the video. Are these knives full or partial tang?
Full tang ✌️
Would you please compare one of these beauties with swisstech stahlern?
Don’t currently have one of those, but I’ll look at getting one and compare. Thanks for watching, blessings the ocd hunter.
If sharpened properly, it would have gone through the skin of that deer, like if it was nothing. Touching a factory edge on a new knife, does nothing at all. All new mass produced knives, have to be sharpened and in most cases reprofiled to, to give the knife a sharp edge or the edge that fits your needs. This knife, has the best main bevel geometry, on any othe saber grind blade I've seen.(that's why it chops that good, for it's size and weight).That means, that if sharpened, it can cut/slice, literally like razor, and as good if not better, than most hunting knives.
Also, for a steel to show it's true potential and thus how good it can perform, the blade must have been sharpened, for at least 3 to 4 full sharpening sessions. Hope this helps.
Thx for watching and commenting blessings the ocd hunter
The Peltonen knives are factory sharpened to a 25° edge (I confirmed this from the company), they deem that angle to be the best average performer in both heavy and delicate tasks with the 80CrV2 steel. Usually these kind of knives have a 22° or 23° angle, so sharpening an M95/M07 to these angles will take a while, if that's what the owner is used to doing.
I use the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener for field maintenance of these knives, it helps bring back the 25° edge very easily.
I have a few Peltonen knives and they are super sharp (shave, paper cut etc) both right out of the box and after stropping or a sharpening session. The ones I use the most keep their edge with a ceramic and a strop for a long time. You only need the diamond plate after a chip has formed from heavy hitting or a grain of sand in the wood to be batoned.
@@max_ljv Thank you for leting me know! 25 isn't a balanced edge though. That's the standard for 20 degrees.TRC Mille Cuori, which comes with WAY harder steel (same knife category though),is set at 19 degrees from the "factory"! 25 degrees, is what I put to my chopers! That's wierd though, because on videos I've seen these knives, they cut like they have a less than 18 degrees. My guess, is they they got a slicier main bevel geometry, to be able to keep the edge tough like a tank, with the 25 degrees they put,without sacrificing the overall slicing ability!!!
@@greekveteran2715 Yes; the Sabre grind is 7.5 degrees which makes it very slicy 👍 and the 25° secondary bevel is quite small, just to give it strength. That's good for general military conscript use in the wilderness.
Usually Puukko style knives have a 10 degree main bevel, either with or without a micro bevel (usually 22 or 23° here in Finland). "True scandi" knives without a secondary bevel (or with a scandivex) are nice but require a super steel that costs a hunderd bucks more. One example of the knives with 80CrV2 not-super steel are the Terävä knives that have a 10° main bevel and 23° secondary bevel, and about the same price point as the Peltonen. (The Terävä Skramas have a 34° secondary bevel for whacking into wooden things.) The Teräväs feel a lot bulkier in use: you'll want to use them to whack tree branches, while with the Peltonen you'll want to cut the branch cleanly.
@@max_ljv Thanks but why you brought Scandi grinds to the table? These are a completely different kind of grind. As for the micro bevels, that's only a thing on the very cheap mass produced knives, that the factories put, to create a sharp edge faster and with less cost. Micro bevels do not offer anything, other than making a knife a poor performer on any task.. They DO NOT offer edge stability, because it's still a flat V edge bevel.What offers edge stability, is a slight convex geometry. Anyway, in any case, any new knife ,must be sharpened properly, before it's used. As for the steel, to show it's abilitites, it has to be sharpened for at least 2 to 3 times (full sharpening sessions I mean) to show what edge retention and what edge stability it can provide. (That's why many people, complain that their knive's edges chip or roll easily, it's usually,because they use their knives, with the poor facory edges, that neither have a proper edge, nor have the "burnt" steel removed. As for the Scandi grinds, these provide the least edge stability and edge retention, compared to any other type of grind, where the Saber grind on Pentlonen knives, provide the most edge stability,so it's the opposite, to a scandi.Sorry for the long message! I just hate microbevels and the lies of the industry, that it's a "good feature.. well, it's the worst from any point of view, that's why only cheap knives come with it.
I know you are an experienced knife handler, BUT , that clip of you cutting towards yourself, along your outstretched arm, was positively dangerous with such a sharp knife !
I respectfully disagree - a draw cut is designed to be safe. As you draw the knife - your fist is designed to run into your chest -so if for some reason I did slip with the blade - all that would happen is I would basically punch myself with the bottom of my fist.
And my out stretched arm is much lover than it looks on video.
Plus with a draw cut it is a very controlled motion.
I appreciate your concern for safety though! And I could see if someone did incorrectly they could have an issue. Knife safety is very important. And thanks for watching and commenting. Blessings the ocd hunter😮
@@TheOCDHunter Thank you for such a quick reply. My concern is not so much for yourself , as you are a really great knife handler. What would concern me more would be a young or unexperienced person trying to copy you and causing themseves harm because they are not as competent as you are. "I saw a guy on Utube do it just like this" sort of thing. Happy Trails.
@@clivedunning4317yep you are totally right about experience makes a difference. I’m glad you commented so it will maybe it will help out some people!!!!!! Blessings!