The deadman failed
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- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2024
- We buried a railroad tie in the ground but the Raumer welded eye glue in bolt pulled in tension won in the tug-a-war match?
We stock these in our store now
hownot2.com/products/radius-g...
Other videos tested in this mine:
Climbtech removables • Why are these marketed...
Juniper bolts • This project took 2 years
Forged eye bolts • They broke the rules a...
Titanium U Bolts • They are uncertified?!?!
Bolting bible hownot2.com/blogs/bolting-bible
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Find these bolts at hownot2.com/products/radius-glue-in-bolt
I love anything that under-promises and over-delivers.
I second that notion.
I love you too.
😘@@tedgunderson67
I feel like it's good practice to say, "This is where it starts deforming tiny amounts." vs "This is going to make it fail."
@@gigas115I think having both is best practice, this is where it starts to lose integrity, this is where it fails under lab conditions. Especially with something as potentially technical as load bearing, the more information the better
I'm not a climber and I don't plan to ever be a climber but I sure enjoy these videos.
Gotta try it, it's fun as f***!
get in touch with your inner monkey
Same here. Seems like it’d be a fun hobby once I get down around 200 tho.
The planet earth cracked before the anchor did, that's sick
Simply the best channel of its type on the web...and that is 50 plus years of climbing speaking here...!!!
Great work Ryan. I know folks pushed you away from doing your store, but it seems like a huge amount of value for the community!
Here's my question, I'm always concerned about freeze cycles, do glue ins prevent water from getting in the hole, does drilling a hole at a downhill grade prevent ice expansion, just something I think about is someone from the Northern area
This, I have been climbing on some old bridges that have been bolted and it is not uncommon to find moisture comming from the bolts.
Excellent work Ryan and team. Super appreciate your approach to business and stewardship.
Shoot me down if I'm out of line here, but a gear picker would be a great idea for your store. Basically select a bunch of options and it will make recommendations suited specifically to your needs. I know they aren't that easy to implement but especially with you offering such specific gear that a lot of other places don't, it might be worth a try.
I just love the methodical approach and obvious passion. It's just nice to hear smart people talk. I'll probably never climb but these videos are great.
I know Bobby digging that hole was only 5 seconds of footage but GOOD LORD that seems like quite the task.
Awesome Video. I Always share your Vids in my Mountain Rescue Unit.
I know nothing about climbing or about putting bolts in rock, but I still like the video. Thanks, YT recommendations!
great high-effort video!
Important & informative testing. Great info for climbers. Be safe!
Amazing sixties kN... Never seen gear falling +double MBS.
Nice work guys!
I love your whole cheesy crew ❤
Bedankt
This is the first video I've seen of yours. You earned a sub. I'm impressed you used global measurments, (metric) instead of imperial. You are smarter than the average eagle.
Nice merch, shelf.🎉🎉🎉
Keep the dad jokes coming, guys😅
Magnificent stuff. Super good enough!!
I have a cool repurpose idea for bolts that have the eyes still intact. What do you do with the "used" bolts?
Thanks for this! awesome to see. so the verdict is these overseas style of bolts are safe?
Deadman: I remember reading a deadman anchor has to be the same depth or more than its width, or it pulls the soil/snow. it looks like you guys went wider but needed to go deeper. I would LOVE to see some picket tests in snow now that glacier season is upon us. Hmm
Video idea: Pussik vs rope grab for fall arrest, which one lasts longer and which one is better suited for single or double line applications?
I don't have gear fear. Been at a scene where people were switching who was belaying while the climber started leaning back for the belay. Didn't work out well. People and how easy it is to not get things right are my fear.
the trick is always - finding rock stronger than the bolts/glue (for the lengths which are realistic to drill and install.
Noting that as soon as the glued bolt shifts - the epoxy is "gone" and the bolt is s imply "camming" on the rock.
Epoxy doesn't "truly" stick to most metals ( does your "glue" have etching additives"") - even in wood, the bond is "micromechanical" - reasons to glue threaded rod or ridged re-bar, in construction, of course a dusty hole is starting in the wrong place...
IF boltholes are drilled to be "non flooding" ans "deep enough" - those posh-button removable wedge bolts do make sense for permanent routes, accessible only to the "properly equipped" (or for non obvious routes on public areas (the - or an alternate design isn't particularly expensive to create - making it as strong as a solid glued bolt does need some more exotic materials due to the active tension element being thinner than is possible in a solid bolt - HS SWR beats solid bar, IF the ends are bomber)
Hey ryan i thought of a small invention you could possibly make its a new straw for an airduster can that also doubles as a brush to help clean your holes better for bolting/faster
There's a company that made a hammer drill that has a hole in the bit to vacuum out the hole as you drill, might have been dewalt?
@@legionofanon hilti makes that i use em at work lol it doesnt get everything
I've heard tell that the standard practice for manufacturing these kinds of things is "if you rate it for x.. make sure it can take double that, just in case"
Same I think also holds for bungee cords, they can actually hold for at least twice the weight they are rated for.
I hear many (good) things are over engineered by a certain amount depending on criticality.
And that shrewd people know those margins by using say 30N tools for a 50-60N workload knowing they are over engineered by a factor of 2.
Then you cheap out (this brand actually fails at 30N) or a faulty batch that probably would have endured operating under spec , or simple mechanical stress.
Just heard our engineer telling his team to NEVER reuse bolts (200ft tall moving structure), if you must unscrew a bolt replace it with a new one.
How much time are you allowing the epoxy to cure before yanking on it?
(4:10) "The rock broke before we did."
-Cadian bolt
I think that that is an understatement. The mountain would break before the bolt if it was up to cadian standards.
@@alimaeus455 Well if you wanna get technical, Holy Terra itself would crack first.
What epoxy was used? I couldn’t find it in your shop, thanks
I bet those were anealed in an oven to homogenize the weld and the base steel. same idea as temper on a knife, just slightly different.
Do you degrease the bolts? Does that affect it?
You have to test some safty gear for construction
I don't climb but it is interesting none the less.
Sound like the resin wasn't at 100% cure but still good enough
casually leaning over a barbed wire fence within an inch of your neck to watch a phone video... I could never
What you need is tungsten bolts
Would you guys be interested in industrial M16? For example Hilti HSA-R M16 137mm long and M16 Rod with Hilti Different Chemest? Happy to email some extra specifications
I dont climb at all. But i enjoy your videos nonetheless 😄
It's simple break all the things.
when inserting those you should be warry of the veins.
That heartbeat was some pretty severe ST depressions, can definitely lead to death
Deadman Walking
Surely it's the rock that you are putting them in.
In the early days of putting in anchors you used a hammer and a hand drill. You struck the rock with the hammer and it you heard a ringing note it was good to go, but if you heard a dull "thunk" you knew the rock was weak so tried elsewhere.
Now with battery drills and glue in bolts people often forget to test the rock with a hammer first. I've seen anchors fail because of this.
03:23
It seems like the epoxy is the first point of failure. Have you already tested different glues/epoxy products?
With "Archeology stuff" did you mean Fossils? 😅
Seems everyone is also randomly getting this video for no reason after having absolutely zero, if not actively negative interest in rock climbing? Good good good just making sure
Not a bad video though, super interesting how these things are like literally capable of tearing The Rock apart before itself
You said niche wrong its not nitch its neash (as it is pronounced)
eww 3:15
First
First to comment on First
I work on cell phone towers and i dont understand Free Soleing at all, but the videos are amazing!