Nice new intro, short and to the point alongside the main information. Excellent and great to see the progression on quality through the years. Thanks for the vid!
Great video Jake. I shoot 3 under with no string walking. The advice out there was for Mediterranean or walking, not just 3 under. So glad you went through the 3 types. Just ordered some Nika N3 limbs so looking forward to retuning whole set up for those.
Thank you, I hoped it was simple, tighten shortens. So many vids didn't just say it. Makes since tighten closes gap, but doing it wondering if that was how it works was a bit frustrating cause the other changed as you showed. I didn't understand why the other changed with a single adjustment. Thanks Jake.
I only got started in archery back in late Feb 2023 and your videos have been a god send. It was only today I realised that my grouping problems were to do with bow cant....how do you gauge your vertical alignment?
Hi Jake, Glad to be a Patreon Supporter. You information is always useful and presented the way I can process it and retain it quickly. PS. Love my Wave Pro vanes, loved the second video and the use of Accelerate spray that made my fletching life so much easier. Plus the Bitz Knob, double bonus! I AM for the Archer in You. Feel free to print that one. PSS. I just finally caught the I AM on you intro from Jake Kaminsky. That was genius. Rick Mansberger Redmond Sports Group
Thanks Jake. On my ILF Split Finger shooting style I'm usually 1/8" to 3/16" positive tiller. It does make a difference & keeps the ease of use enjoyable.
Hi Jake great Video like always! Do you plan to make a Video about field archery? I think it would be interesting to hear tips and tricks from a former professional field archer. Greetings from Germany
Love the channel. It's definitely my go to resource. Would you be able to explain what is meant by "comfortable at full draw"? At 36lb I can hold the bow without shaking for 10 sec. But I'm not sure about comfortable. Thanks for all your work.
I am a little confused. Been shooting Baribeau for about three years and I street walk about an inch down from my knock. So the way I understand it is my top tiller is 7 3/16 my bottom tiller is 7 1/16 or about 1/8 of an inch split. is that a good starting point? thank you for your help. I think your channel is amazing and I’ll keep watch it. I have learned so much in the past three years.
Video idea: properly letting down when you know the shot is not going to be a good one. I hesitate in doing this because I get an impingement bite in the front of my bow shoulder when I do. Thanks for all you do Jim
Yes. I dropped you an email when I watched that last week. Im going to start practicing letting down to see if I can figure out ways to let down and avoid the discomfort in my bow shoulder.
To start do I tighten the bolt clockwise a the way down then back off from there? I read if counterclockwise to start or too much there is a danger of limb gets pulled out…?
Hi Jake, and thank you for all these informations, they are very valuable for a beginner archer like me. I guess I'm going to probably try a different tiller setting since my bow is a second hand bow that was set with a positive tiller, but I'm shooting barebow :) Can the tiller setting be changed without any other changes on the bow (especially nocking point height) or some other changes have to be done to stay consistent ?
Tiller change will change nocking point considerably so you may want to make note and adjust after the change. As far as brace change, if you adjust the top in and the bottom out equally the brace and draw weight should stay the same.
Great video Jake! When you strengthen the top/bottom (or both) by shortening the distance, that results in a higher draw weight, right? (Not a ton obviously, just trying to make sure I understand the relationship. Clockwise turn -> limb bolt in -> shorter tiller distance -> increased draw weight?)
Hi Jake, I've recently picked up a atf-dx for myself and have noticed a problem with it. Wanted to ask if yours has the same issue? The limb bolt holes at the back of the riser are not centered on my riser, what affect this has on shooting and how it should be set up I don't know. But after looking at some others archers risers their tiller bolt holes were much more central.
Hi, I recently saw the older video of you shooting the Hoyt XD. I posted a question under that about the little dots on new hoyt limbs. Guessing you dont read the comments under old video's i ask it again here. My new axia limbs came with the little stickers with gold dots that sit under the limb bolts. I can't find any info about those, should i leave them on or should i remove them. I noticed on your video you still had them on. During adjusting tiller one of the stickers was damaged so i pulled them all off. What are they for? Nothing is stated about them in the Hoyt manual or on the website.
They fix a few things, cut down on noise that limbs can make in that area from flexing and to protect the clear coat there from failing. However the stickers will move and or get damaged if you do not unstrung your bow before every adjustment. Plus the clear is so soft, it tends to fail there even with the dots. I prefer to take them off and remove the clear coat in the area personally.
Hey jake, firstly thank you for all your videos and information. I know you shot field archery and thought maybe you could make some content about how incline/decline affects your shot and also shooting on cambers etc Just a content idea 😊
Hi, I am new to your channel and to archery as a whole. As a video idea, could you share a few really budget options you would consider for someone to see if archery is for them. I am assuming it would mostly be recurve bows to start with unless you would advise otherwise
I hope you don't mind giving you my insight - please read to the end. I started in February this year, I studied loads of RUclips videos etc. and then bought a 70" 34 lb Core Archery Shift take down recurve bow which has a wooden riser for £75 new in the UK. I immediately knew it was too strong for me, and didn't like the way the arrow wasn't central to the bow (being a wooden riser), but I knew I wanted to take archery further. I then purchased a WNS Motive FX forged aluminium riser and some 30 lb WNS limbs, and initially knew that was a little strong, but over a week my body got used to it and I was able to aim without shaking too much. I’m improving day on day, and currently draw my 30 lb bow to 33.8 lbs and get a good steady aim. I then decided to go on a beginners course at a local archery club, and the first thing they said is don’t go onto the internet and buy a bow, without first going to an archery shop and get measured for draw weight and draw length etc… On the course the beginners used 18 lb bows…but I used my own. Have you got a local archery club where you could at least try archery before buying a bow?
I, like yourself, like to question "why" especially when the topic is of dispute such as tiller for string walking. So what's the reason you suggested a bigger tiller at the bottom i.e. negative tiller? Some would argue that a positive tiller makes more sense as the bottom limb needs to do more work when string walking?
You're making the bottom limb work more the more you walk down, reducing the bottom strength balances the bow more when at full draw resulting in a much easier and more comfortable feeling when at full draw.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanks. I seem to get tighter groups with a positive tiller though it could be psychological perhaps. I need to experiment some more!
I'd like to know how to aim when you are shooting at distance and you can't aim on the target face. You have to aim above it. My son is 8 and is fine at 20 yards but really battles at 30 yards. It's just not consistent and I'm not sure how to help him. He is at the max draw weight that to is confortable with. So any suggestions would be appreciate.
Over the years, I’ve heard several differing opinions as to where to place draw fingers on the string (I’m talking recurve one above, two below the arrow). For example; touch the top of the arrow with the underside of your index finger. Or, the complete reverse; touch the underside of the arrow with the topside of your middle finger. I’m guessing one of these is correct rather than trying to hold the string without any part of the fingers touching the arrow? I’d love to hear your views - what’s your preferred hold?
@@typhoon2827 When I said ‘finger’, I should have said the leather of the tab relating to the specific finger mentioned. Nothing I’ve read/watched says don’t touch the arrow (nock) at all as, I’m guessing, this wouldn’t give an accurate reference point for a consistent, repeatable shot. I’d love to hear Jake’s view.
@@mikeyb9819 nothing should touch the arrow shaft at any point , just the sting in the arrow nock. If you go to a local archery shop that has a range they will instruct you about Mediterranian ( split finger ) and 3x under
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice new intro, short and to the point alongside the main information. Excellent and great to see the progression on quality through the years. Thanks for the vid!
Great video Jake. I shoot 3 under with no string walking. The advice out there was for Mediterranean or walking, not just 3 under. So glad you went through the 3 types. Just ordered some Nika N3 limbs so looking forward to retuning whole set up for those.
Thank you, I hoped it was simple, tighten shortens. So many vids didn't just say it. Makes since tighten closes gap, but doing it wondering if that was how it works was a bit frustrating cause the other changed as you showed. I didn't understand why the other changed with a single adjustment. Thanks Jake.
Thank you very much for all your knowledge you share ... 👍👍👍
I only got started in archery back in late Feb 2023 and your videos have been a god send.
It was only today I realised that my grouping problems were to do with bow cant....how do you gauge your vertical alignment?
Hi Jake, Glad to be a Patreon Supporter. You information is always useful and presented the way I can process it and retain it quickly.
PS. Love my Wave Pro vanes, loved the second video and the use of Accelerate spray that made my fletching life so much easier. Plus the Bitz Knob, double bonus!
I AM for the Archer in You.
Feel free to print that one.
PSS. I just finally caught the I AM on you intro from Jake Kaminsky. That was genius.
Rick Mansberger
Redmond Sports Group
Thanks Jake. On my ILF Split Finger shooting style I'm usually 1/8" to 3/16" positive tiller. It does make a difference & keeps the ease of use enjoyable.
Thank you
Very useful information
Hi Jake great Video like always!
Do you plan to make a Video about field archery? I think it would be interesting to hear tips and tricks from a former professional field archer.
Greetings from Germany
Just an idea use the metric system, or both.
Thanks Jake!
Very helpful!
Love the channel. It's definitely my go to resource. Would you be able to explain what is meant by "comfortable at full draw"? At 36lb I can hold the bow without shaking for 10 sec. But I'm not sure about comfortable. Thanks for all your work.
Could we get one on how to clean the bowstring?
Need to get the blood off of mine but don't wish to damage it unknowingly.
Cheers!
I am a little confused. Been shooting Baribeau for about three years and I street walk about an inch down from my knock. So the way I understand it is my top tiller is 7 3/16 my bottom tiller is 7 1/16 or about 1/8 of an inch split. is that a good starting point? thank you for your help. I think your channel is amazing and I’ll keep watch it. I have learned so much in the past three years.
Try it the other way. You are using a tiller split for recurve. Barebow is opposite to be 0/0 to roughly 1/4” bigger on the bottom
Can I adjust the measurements on a takedown bow with knobs?
Video idea: properly letting down when you know the shot is not going to be a good one. I hesitate in doing this because I get an impingement bite in the front of my bow shoulder when I do. Thanks for all you do
Jim
Have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/gNw1A0_QACQ/видео.html
Yes. I dropped you an email when I watched that last week. Im going to start practicing letting down to see if I can figure out ways to let down and avoid the discomfort in my bow shoulder.
To start do I tighten the bolt clockwise a the way down then back off from there? I read if counterclockwise to start or too much there is a danger of limb gets pulled out…?
Hi Jake, and thank you for all these informations, they are very valuable for a beginner archer like me. I guess I'm going to probably try a different tiller setting since my bow is a second hand bow that was set with a positive tiller, but I'm shooting barebow :) Can the tiller setting be changed without any other changes on the bow (especially nocking point height) or some other changes have to be done to stay consistent ?
Tiller change will change nocking point considerably so you may want to make note and adjust after the change. As far as brace change, if you adjust the top in and the bottom out equally the brace and draw weight should stay the same.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery thank you
Great video Jake! When you strengthen the top/bottom (or both) by shortening the distance, that results in a higher draw weight, right? (Not a ton obviously, just trying to make sure I understand the relationship. Clockwise turn -> limb bolt in -> shorter tiller distance -> increased draw weight?)
Correct.
Hi Jake, I've recently picked up a atf-dx for myself and have noticed a problem with it. Wanted to ask if yours has the same issue? The limb bolt holes at the back of the riser are not centered on my riser, what affect this has on shooting and how it should be set up I don't know. But after looking at some others archers risers their tiller bolt holes were much more central.
Hi, I recently saw the older video of you shooting the Hoyt XD.
I posted a question under that about the little dots on new hoyt limbs.
Guessing you dont read the comments under old video's i ask it again here.
My new axia limbs came with the little stickers with gold dots that sit under the limb bolts.
I can't find any info about those, should i leave them on or should i remove them.
I noticed on your video you still had them on.
During adjusting tiller one of the stickers was damaged so i pulled them all off.
What are they for? Nothing is stated about them in the Hoyt manual or on the website.
They fix a few things, cut down on noise that limbs can make in that area from flexing and to protect the clear coat there from failing. However the stickers will move and or get damaged if you do not unstrung your bow before every adjustment. Plus the clear is so soft, it tends to fail there even with the dots. I prefer to take them off and remove the clear coat in the area personally.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanks for the fast answer.
Hey jake, firstly thank you for all your videos and information.
I know you shot field archery and thought maybe you could make some content about how incline/decline affects your shot and also shooting on cambers etc
Just a content idea 😊
I plan on field content 100%
Hi, I am new to your channel and to archery as a whole. As a video idea, could you share a few really budget options you would consider for someone to see if archery is for them. I am assuming it would mostly be recurve bows to start with unless you would advise otherwise
I hope you don't mind giving you my insight - please read to the end. I started in February this year, I studied loads of RUclips videos etc. and then bought a 70" 34 lb Core Archery Shift take down recurve bow which has a wooden riser for £75 new in the UK. I immediately knew it was too strong for me, and didn't like the way the arrow wasn't central to the bow (being a wooden riser), but I knew I wanted to take archery further. I then purchased a WNS Motive FX forged aluminium riser and some 30 lb WNS limbs, and initially knew that was a little strong, but over a week my body got used to it and I was able to aim without shaking too much. I’m improving day on day, and currently draw my 30 lb bow to 33.8 lbs and get a good steady aim.
I then decided to go on a beginners course at a local archery club, and the first thing they said is don’t go onto the internet and buy a bow, without first going to an archery shop and get measured for draw weight and draw length etc… On the course the beginners used 18 lb bows…but I used my own.
Have you got a local archery club where you could at least try archery before buying a bow?
PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON DYNAMIC TILLERING
I, like yourself, like to question "why" especially when the topic is of dispute such as tiller for string walking. So what's the reason you suggested a bigger tiller at the bottom i.e. negative tiller? Some would argue that a positive tiller makes more sense as the bottom limb needs to do more work when string walking?
You're making the bottom limb work more the more you walk down, reducing the bottom strength balances the bow more when at full draw resulting in a much easier and more comfortable feeling when at full draw.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanks. I seem to get tighter groups with a positive tiller though it could be psychological perhaps. I need to experiment some more!
My hoyt satori with velos traditional limbs broke (lower limb), do you think the reason for this can be wrong tiller adjustment?
Unlikely. Unfortunately limbs fail from time to time. I’ve had a couple sets blow up on me in my career.
I'd like to know how to aim when you are shooting at distance and you can't aim on the target face. You have to aim above it. My son is 8 and is fine at 20 yards but really battles at 30 yards. It's just not consistent and I'm not sure how to help him. He is at the max draw weight that to is confortable with. So any suggestions would be appreciate.
Groetjes van nederland,,,
Over the years, I’ve heard several differing opinions as to where to place draw fingers on the string (I’m talking recurve one above, two below the arrow). For example; touch the top of the arrow with the underside of your index finger. Or, the complete reverse; touch the underside of the arrow with the topside of your middle finger. I’m guessing one of these is correct rather than trying to hold the string without any part of the fingers touching the arrow? I’d love to hear your views - what’s your preferred hold?
Don't touch it at all.
@@typhoon2827 When I said ‘finger’, I should have said the leather of the tab relating to the specific finger mentioned. Nothing I’ve read/watched says don’t touch the arrow (nock) at all as, I’m guessing, this wouldn’t give an accurate reference point for a consistent, repeatable shot. I’d love to hear Jake’s view.
@@mikeyb9819 nothing should touch the arrow shaft at any point , just the sting in the arrow nock. If you go to a local archery shop that has a range they will instruct you about Mediterranian ( split finger ) and 3x under
kan de uitleg in mm dank je ,,,
God slow down bro