Thanks for taking us through each step. Demonstration works for me. Really like the results and it shows you can do some decent work without an airbrush, which is a great place to start with this "art form".
I find it’s helpful to have a photo to go by. I usually try to find one as close to my modeling year as possible. Even if you’re not looking to weather it to an exact match, it’s helpful to have a guide and to see just how dirty a unit was at a particular time.
I like the way the loco turned out. The Dulcoat sure did tone down the pastels. I have experienced that same issue. Lots of second and third coats make it better. I really like the way the Vallejo rust paint works. I need to try that product. Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
Thanks, Larry! I knew the Dullcote would tone it down some, but it was more than I expected, and more than I remember from past projects. All good though! The Vallejo paint is really good and gives a great texture. I recommend it.
That CR unit looks really good! 👍👍 I did a lot of CR railfanning back in it's heyday, and your unit really captures the look of the everyday use of these and other CR EMDs! I also like your use of the Pan pastels... I'll have to give these a try in the near future! Thanks for the memories and for sharing your weathering techniques! 👍👍
Good video for doing weathering, I used to use pan pastels but have switched to pigments, on using pan pastels I found using a fan brush works well and a need to blend is not needed. I think you hit on the reason a lot of guys don't weather the high end locos. Taking apart of a 300.00 loco for the average guy is hard. On mine I use an oil dot fade to tone it down first but you really have to have it apart do do it right. Thanks for the sharing, it turned out very good used but not a rust bucket.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC As I said I use an oil dot fade on the loco, I found that the Pigments could be used in a couple of ways. You can use a fixer to set the material or you can use AB thinner brushed on the area, say the top of the hood then apply. You can use them( pigments) as a paste also. Once you set them with a fixer or with AB thinner you are done. I still use pan pastels but only on structures , bridges, things that don't get handled much. One other benefit is you can layer it. AK has a very good Vid on using Pigments on RUclips.
I must admit! When you started, with the vellejo paint, I thought.. .."what/where's he going"? The powders brought that thing to life! You might already have a video on this, but can you do a short video, on the types of brushes you use for the powder! Amazing job!
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I understand what brushes are for? But to make distinction in them. It would be interesting, (in my book) I do enjoy tye channel, thanks for all the info
Hi Joe, you might give pledge floor wax like used on linoleum floors to fix those window scratches. I've used it on model cars and it does amazing things for clear plastic windows. As a word of caution, it makes the windows have a wet glossy appearance. Hope this might help.
Scratched windows: paint a little Clear or other acrylic gloss varnish onto the scratched glazing whilst holding the locomotive vertical to the glazing is parallel with the ground (so there ae no runs). It wont fill the scratch in but will make it much less noticeable.
Turned out great!! I've yet to pull the trigger on weathering. It always seems as im heavy handed. I'll learn eventually. 🤣 for the window repair put some future on them. That stuff is like magic for a ton of things.
My suggestion? At a train show buy some of the used old cheap cars. Like $1 each or something. Practice on those. If you don’t like it, you haven’t lost much. Some cars are really dirty and rusty, so heavy handed isn’t always a bad thing 🙂
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I've got a ton of the bargain find cars. I just need to dig em out and have a go at them. Worst case they go in a box and back to the train show. 🤣
Masking windows with wipers: put a small piece of masking tape under the wiper blade up to the window frame, then use masking fluid around the tape to the window edge. After painting remove the masking film ad then gently lift the tape away. Easy!
Hello,have you ever had a problem with the alcohol removing any paint??Alot of people use it to remove and re-paint.What percent of and what brand of alcohol do you use??Cheers,Troy
I have never had any issue with paint getting removed using 70% isopropyl alcohol. That said, avoid the 91% alcohol for this. That’s the stuff that’s typically used to remove paint. I’ve used it to completely strip models, so yeah, don’t mix them up!
Pretty nice results for not removing the body! Otherwise, check the parts list. Maybe you can get the window glazing from Athearn. Although it means removing the body to install it :P
Hi Joe, nice video, very subtle. You haven't ruined anything until you've build a rolling stock graveyard 😈 Personally I still use an ancient technique using petroleum jelly as the bonding agent for ground up charcoal and streetchalk. (The type children use.) Seal with a mat varnish.
I also use testor's dull coat and yes that's the only downside of the product I don't like about it that it blows most of your work away rather than seal it, however I try not to spray close to the model but rather about four feet off the model in two separate passes, secondly I like to use green frog painters tape to do my masking, it doesn't leave behind any sticky adhesive on the model..
So I have a Conrail, but don’t know what type of locomotive it is, looks like an SD40 but at the rear there’s a extra rear headlight sitting upwards.. also it doesn’t want to run after picking it up at miniature wonderlands in NJ.
An acrylic floor coating such as Future or Pledge will go a long way towards fixing the window scratches. Use a real paint brush, not a crappy micro brush.
Most things in the "real" world have some level of dirtiness to them, even if it's just some of the shine wearing off. I think weathering just makes things look more realistic.
To view the complete video of removing the MicroMask from the cab windows, become a patron! www.patreon.com/posts/59051034
Thanks for taking us through each step. Demonstration works for me. Really like the results and it shows you can do some decent work without an airbrush, which is a great place to start with this "art form".
Since I’ve discovered pan pastels I rarely use my airbrush for weathering anymore.
Looks great! Loved that you used a photo of the loco to compare your weathering too.
I find it’s helpful to have a photo to go by. I usually try to find one as close to my modeling year as possible. Even if you’re not looking to weather it to an exact match, it’s helpful to have a guide and to see just how dirty a unit was at a particular time.
Hi Joe, you didn't ruin it buddy, it looks great! I especially like that rust area on the front. Keep up the cool video's bud, -Dave B.
That was more a dig at the people who say that weathering is “ruining” a perfectly good loco. 🙂
I like the way the loco turned out. The Dulcoat sure did tone down the pastels. I have experienced that same issue. Lots of second and third coats make it better. I really like the way the Vallejo rust paint works. I need to try that product. Thanks for sharing and stay safe.
Thanks, Larry! I knew the Dullcote would tone it down some, but it was more than I expected, and more than I remember from past projects. All good though! The Vallejo paint is really good and gives a great texture. I recommend it.
That CR unit looks really good! 👍👍 I did a lot of CR railfanning back in it's heyday, and your unit really captures the look of the everyday use of these and other CR EMDs! I also like your use of the Pan pastels... I'll have to give these a try in the near future! Thanks for the memories and for sharing your weathering techniques! 👍👍
Man turned out great. Weathering is a scary thing for me. I keep mine as new so they can be sold. You did a great job! Thanks for sharing. Dave
I get it. But I bet there’s a market for weathered stuff, too. 😉
A great job of weathering -- a very subtle but distinctive final appearance. Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Glad you liked it!
Good video for doing weathering, I used to use pan pastels but have switched to pigments, on using pan pastels I found using a fan brush works well and a need to blend is not needed. I think you hit on the reason a lot of guys don't weather the high end locos. Taking apart of a 300.00 loco for the average guy is hard. On mine I use an oil dot fade to tone it down first but you really have to have it apart do do it right. Thanks for the sharing, it turned out very good used but not a rust bucket.
What made you switch to pigments? What do you feel the benefits are?
@@ThePixelDepotLLC As I said I use an oil dot fade on the loco, I found that the Pigments could be used in a couple of ways. You can use a fixer to set the material or you can use AB thinner brushed on the area, say the top of the hood then apply. You can use them( pigments) as a paste also. Once you set them with a fixer or with AB thinner you are done. I still use pan pastels but only on structures , bridges, things that don't get handled much. One other benefit is you can layer it. AK has a very good Vid on using Pigments on RUclips.
I must admit! When you started, with the vellejo paint, I thought.. .."what/where's he going"? The powders brought that thing to life! You might already have a video on this, but can you do a short video, on the types of brushes you use for the powder! Amazing job!
I haven’t done a video on brushes for powders but it wouldn’t be hard to do.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I understand what brushes are for? But to make distinction in them. It would be interesting, (in my book) I do enjoy tye channel, thanks for all the info
@@DarkTerritory71 No, I understood what you meant. I was agreeing. Sorry if it came across differently.
Hi Joe, you might give pledge floor wax like used on linoleum floors to fix those window scratches. I've used it on model cars and it does amazing things for clear plastic windows. As a word of caution, it makes the windows have a wet glossy appearance. Hope this might help.
I was wondering about that. I’ve used the floor wax as an adhesive and was wondering if it would fill the scratches. Thanks for the tip!
Nice job Joe, thanks for sharing your techniques and thoughts.
Glad to share!
Great video really like the prototype resources.
No point keeping them to myself! And I do think that it’s important to use reference photos, even if only to get patterns and such.
Enjoyed the upload you put together. Hope there more to come soon.
as a big fan of the steam era I don’t run many diesel locomotives but I have a soft spot for early streamlined diesel locomotives
Nicely done. Looks good.
if you can find it, model master gloss acrylic does a good job of hiding scratches on clear parts. unit came out real nice
Thank, Joe. I’ll check it out.
Scratched windows: paint a little Clear or other acrylic gloss varnish onto the scratched glazing whilst holding the locomotive vertical to the glazing is parallel with the ground (so there ae no runs). It wont fill the scratch in but will make it much less noticeable.
Turned out great!! I've yet to pull the trigger on weathering. It always seems as im heavy handed. I'll learn eventually. 🤣 for the window repair put some future on them. That stuff is like magic for a ton of things.
My suggestion? At a train show buy some of the used old cheap cars. Like $1 each or something. Practice on those. If you don’t like it, you haven’t lost much.
Some cars are really dirty and rusty, so heavy handed isn’t always a bad thing 🙂
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I've got a ton of the bargain find cars. I just need to dig em out and have a go at them. Worst case they go in a box and back to the train show. 🤣
Joe, you put the fuel spill beneath the fuel sight gauge. The fuel filler is below the red cap near the front of the fuel tank ... Looks great though
Eesh. I have egg on my face for that one. Thanks for the correction!
Masking windows with wipers: put a small piece of masking tape under the wiper blade up to the window frame, then use masking fluid around the tape to the window edge. After painting remove the masking film ad then gently lift the tape away. Easy!
How long do you generally let the dullcoat dry before you apply the pastels
It actually dries pretty quickly. I usually only wait about five minutes.
Hello,have you ever had a problem with the alcohol removing any paint??Alot of people use it to remove and re-paint.What percent of and what brand of alcohol do you use??Cheers,Troy
I have never had any issue with paint getting removed using 70% isopropyl alcohol. That said, avoid the 91% alcohol for this. That’s the stuff that’s typically used to remove paint. I’ve used it to completely strip models, so yeah, don’t mix them up!
Pretty nice results for not removing the body! Otherwise, check the parts list. Maybe you can get the window glazing from Athearn. Although it means removing the body to install it :P
I’m not necessarily afraid to remove the shell. It’s just so much easier if you don’t have to.
Hi Joe, nice video, very subtle.
You haven't ruined anything until you've build a rolling stock graveyard 😈
Personally I still use an ancient technique using petroleum jelly as the bonding agent for ground up charcoal and streetchalk. (The type children use.) Seal with a mat varnish.
You don't know for certain that I don't have such a graveyard! 😉
I also use testor's dull coat and yes that's the only downside of the product I don't like about it that it blows most of your work away rather than seal it, however I try not to spray close to the model but rather about four feet off the model in two separate passes, secondly I like to use green frog painters tape to do my masking, it doesn't leave behind any sticky adhesive on the model..
I usually spray about a foot away (as you saw on the video). I’ll have to try some passes further away.
So I have a Conrail, but don’t know what type of locomotive it is, looks like an SD40 but at the rear there’s a extra rear headlight sitting upwards.. also it doesn’t want to run after picking it up at miniature wonderlands in NJ.
I’d have to see it to know for sure. I probably won’t be able to help get it running. That’s not my strong suit.
The trick for the windows is to apply more than one coat of masking material. It makes it easier to remove it.
Thanks for that tip. I’ll have to give that a try!
Great job!
Thanks!
What strength of alcohol? 99% can shift paint. 91%? 70%?
70% Isopropyl Alcohol
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Thank you :)
An acrylic floor coating such as Future or Pledge will go a long way towards fixing the window scratches. Use a real paint brush, not a crappy micro brush.
Northeast railfan is the best website for any railroad photos out there
Overall very nice work but I would have expected more soot/dirt accumulations on the roof.
You're right. The beauty is I can go back and add more!
I’ve driven them for 35 years, 99.9% weathering. Seeing a shiny brand new one was weird lol. Same with my truck models usually look better weathered.
Most things in the "real" world have some level of dirtiness to them, even if it's just some of the shine wearing off. I think weathering just makes things look more realistic.
Looks legit.
Thanks!
Just as good with the 2nd watch, I'll be back