In my 70 years I've never known this. (I wish I'd known earlier. Some projects might have run a little smoother. 🤣🤣) We're never too old to learn. 😉😊😇👍
Excellent video. I've spent almost thirty years operating manual lathes, and have cut many different types of threads. There's one thread type that I've cut that you don't mention: Trapezoidal thread, similar to Acme, but with all metric dimensions. Note to newbies: The differences between thread types are pretty obvious when they are drawn on paper or computer graphics, but not always so obvious when you are looking at a machine part, especially if it is worn. Trivia: If you ever encounter an oddball thread that mixes an imperial diameter with a metric pitch, or vice versa, it was probably made in Italy. (It ain't stupid if it works...)
@@glengillham4629 Think I saw a video from Joe Pie or maybe Tom Lipton on that. I did some multi-start external threads a few times when I 1st got my CNC.. Kool factor, but not practical. Food industry uses them I think. Plastic molded jars.
Here after are some additional information about Metric system To find the drill size for hole that will be taped you just subtract the thread pitch. Exemple: M8 x 1.25 tap would need a 6.75 mm drill bit (8-1.25= 6.75) Also every screw or nut revolution will make it progress 1.25mm Also for small metric size you can find the wrench size you need by multiply the pitch by 10 Exemple: M3 x 0.5 would be a 5mm wrench (0.5 x 10 = 5 ) and 2.5mm drill size M4 x 0.7 would be a 7mm wrench and 3.3mm drill size M5 x 0.8 would be a 8 mm wrench and 4.2mm drill size M6 x 1.0 would be a 10mm wrench and 5mm drill size M8 x 1.25 would be a 13mm wrench
Re: "you can find the wrench size you need by multiply the pitch by 10" That's not exactly true... It usually works but, for example, a M8 x 1.2 bolt or nut made to the old J.I.S (Japanese Industrial Standard) will use a 12mm wrench not a 13mm wrench. A lot of the JIS standards were changed in 1985 to match the ISO and DIN standards but I don't remember if this is one of them.
I've never seen metric drills on consumer market in US. Always fractional inch, decimal inch, wire size or letter size. I'm pretty sure I saw a few metric drills here and there working at Caterpillar, but mostly I recall decimal inch even though the prints were all metric. I've also seen odd hex sizes like 16mm hex on a 10mm bolt, 14 or 12 on an 8mm bolt, and that's not the special reduced size hex for clearance. Also 18 or 19 hex on a 12mm bolt. Mostly I see the odd hex sizes on Chinese stuff, but I've seen the 16mm head on 10mm Cat bolts with "CAT" logo on the head (not cheap China stuff).
Thank You! The best descriptions I have ever seen regarding threads. Anyone getting involved with machining or mechanics should watch this and take note.
The WHITWORTH thread of huge historical significance because it marked the introduction of standard thread forms by Joseph Whitworth. Although most people take standard threadforms and other manufacturing standardisation for granted, Whitworth's standard thread and his other standardisation ideas brought a massive step forward in manufacturing efficiency from which we still benefit hugely today. Although fallen from use for general engineering, most RUclipsrs, and many other people, use Whitworth threads every day since 1/4" Whitworth is used for the tripod mounting thread on most still and small video cameras and 3/8" Whitworth on large video cameras. The Whitworth thread form is used for British Standard Pipe (BSP) threads, now renamed ISO R and ISO G.
That’s fascinating, I’ve been a photo hobbyist for 50+ years, and always assumed that tripod threads were just SAE. A standard 1/4-20 bolt mates fine with the standard camera socket. I kind of wonder why they didn’t just make them SAE at some point, are there some situations where they wouldn’t mate, or do they only mate due to over-generous tolerances?
These fasteners are intended for items that are finger tight and they need to be very easy to align and engage by unskilled users. For those reasons, the tolerance band can be large since a finely fitted high strength thread is not required. That wide tolerance band means that on most occasions both the 1/4 and 3/8 versions fit together regardless of which standard is used. However, since the Whitworth will have a deeper thread because of its narrower angle there can be interference. Probably more likely when fitting UNC screw into a Whitworth hole. A good reason to be extremely careful when mounting expensive, particularly classic, cameras onto low-cost mounts made recently in workshops of unknown origin. Personally, I feel it is worth pressing home the point about Whitworth for cameras because it is just so cool keeping that important piece of 180 year old engineering history alive in every camera body and mount.
I sincerely doubt that any modern tripod is manufactured using Whitworth threads. According to every source I can find this standard now is UNC. they might be compatible because of the loose tolerances but whitworth threads are a product of a bygone era. Frankly I'm surprised they haven't switched to metric though that wouldn't be compatible I guess
I have no dealings with these items, so I have no idea what prompted me to watch this vid- but I'm glad I did. The graphics are superb, and the content was an education: I blush to admit I thought threaded things were much of a muchness. Now I know better. The complexity of their screwy anatomy has made my brain hurt (but in a good way) and henceforth I'll accord these humble fixings the respect they deserve. Thanks.
Great video! My first Machinery Handbook I purchased was used. Was the 20th edition 4th issue printed in 1978 and I've still have it. Long before we had Cad system in the shop along with all kinds of new tech that was amazing to us old timers. Cleveland MoMax cobalt was the good stuff back then. Finally convinced the owner to puchase carbide inserts. He was blown away by the time we saved him. Now you talk about a old school machinist he was the OG.
I am not a machinist per se... However I am a odd dude with a tendency to do some impromptu enginerdin' I bought the 22nd edition in a used book store for 8 bucks...because it seemed like the library of Alexandra in a single book 🤓 Do I need this book? Not really at the moment but I don't think my sensibilities can let me leave without it 😂
Excellent vid with great animaton. One caveat for the newbies out there. Mass produced capscrews/bolts and nuts have ROLLED threads which have zero stress points at the rounded root and crest. This makes them stronger than MACHINED threads which have sharp edges at the root and crest. These sharp edges are stress prone and thus make machined capscrews/bolts and nuts weaker. ALWAYS use fasteners with rolled threads whenever possible, especially in high load and/or vibration prone areas.
Quite possibly my best time investment in RUclips to-date. Outstanding video, and the lack of voices or crap music was a pleasant change. Thanks for the education!
Dude great job. I've been at this for a while and still I learned something. I am going to use this video as an introduction to threads for my young employees. I subbed and looking for more.
It is very common for ACME threads to have more than one start as well. Typically used in heavy axial drive screw assemblies, they are very good for powerful and steep drive work such as single-index gear cutters and hobbing machines. Another variety of WORM SCREW designs have a saddle taper or straight taper so adjustment can be made as wear sets in. Not as common, but found in some older Gould and Eberhart hobbing machine table drives. A splendid way of maintaining tightness over decades of machine use. And lastly, there are certain ball screw designs not covered here. Thank you for a very nice primer on thread design.
Una breve clase educativa, OBLIGADA para cualquier estudiante de ingeniería mecánica o técnico en uso de torno. Breve, preciso, conciso... en fin, ESPECTACULAR¡¡.
Very Nicely Done , It's as if my machinery handbook came to life with a quaint song playing in the background. P.S. It's much more than 5 minutes with the pauses.
Very good video! I have been in the thread business for a long time, but this video has refreshed much that I have forgotten. Thank you for a great video. I will keep it in my resource for future reference.
Fellow screw guru here. Thanks for the video. The new guys always ask me how I know so much about fasteners and screws. I reply the Machinist handbook and I went to college for screws. You ought to see my college sports wear from Screw University. 😉
What a gem of vintage tractor Lance! I can sense your enthusiasm in restoring this beauty we shall look forward in viewing future videos on this and thank you for producing them.
I did my time as a Fitter Machinist and Tool maker, we used Form Threads on most of our Specialised Machines. Our form threads were Pitch and Angle independent of any known threads. Each Machine we sent out had a unique array of Form Threads in Critical Areas. The idea being no other company could Economically Repair our machines, as no off the shelf threads would fit. In other words we made our own nuts and bolts. We were therefore Guaranteed the Maintenance Contract for the life of our Machines, some of which were still operating for more than thirty years.
@Michael John you have just described the EXACT reason why Sir Joseph Whitworth designed the thread that bears his name ... It was costing British industry a small fortune in holding or making custom threads and WITHOUT Whitworth it would have been an impossibility for the industrial revolution to have progressed as rapidly as it did!
@@boblewis5558 Yes Bob, you are 100% correct. When involved in the maintenance of machinery, it is frustrating and maddening to come across odd threads. When I find these odd threads nowadays, I smile.. Karma is a bitch. Cheers from Michael. Australia.😁
i had to make an adapter for stretching some tierods . they were about 12 inch diameter with a german butress type thread. managed to adapt a 35 degree insert cutter to a shank and use a cnc machining center and thread milling to do it. that took some thinking to figure out . it was a -5 degree 30 degree thread.
THANKS! THIS, and then the length, the diameter, the head, the material, the manufacturer etc., is why my eyes just blaze over when I go into the fastener section of a big box store--and why I usually pick mine up at a small, mom-and-pa store.
Liked and subscribed. When I was a kid, I got my A&P and set to restoring warbirds. Fasteners were a much bigger world than I’d have even thought to ask about. I picked up a AN hardware and fasteners book at Oshkosh, read the ink right out of it.
This video got a lot better once I realized there was no useful audio and muted it. Your animation of the threads spinning around was pretty, but it would have appreciated about one more second to read the text as it's not that possible to pause on the phone and still have everything readable. good presentation,
If you pause the video and then tap the video itself, not the pause button, it will clear all that off the screen and you can see/read it with no problem. That's what I do anyway
@@spacecase0 No worries, mate. Also @Jeri Kropp's advice is worthwhile. It took a LOOOOOONG time before I discovered you can remove the 'overlay' from a paused video. Good luck in the future. 😉😊😇👍
I spent most of my working life doing mechanical repairs in a wide range of fields. I can still differentiate beween unified, metric, and whitworth fasteners at a glance. I once looked through a book of thread types in a friends engineering shop, it was the size of a bible! However this covers the basics, and explains why different threads are used for different puposes.
Kudos and thanks! This was so clear, concise and understandable, it’s by far the best reference on thread types I’ve seen - thanks again! (Just scanned your other vids - new subscriber! 😁)
Just found your channel, great video! I'm not a machinist, but sometimes do make things for my personal use! Love the video clears up a lot for me! I do airbrushing (as a hobby, I'm retired!) and I have an Iwata Vault Th2 (it's larger than normal airbrush) that has a screw-on paint cup! Iwata is Japanese made and it's a great spraygun/brush with a round and flat spray pattern that I use for mostly clearing my finished paintings. I wanted to get a 3M PPS 2.0 adapter for it so I could use the 3 oz. paint cups on it to save a little $ by putting the cap on the plastic cup when I finished or if I'd like to give a coat the next day and not waste the clear I already have mixed! It's about a 2 day pot life once the paint is mixed if sealed! I want to be able to clean my gun but save the paint, which the 3M cup would allow me to do. But the thread is not a normal thread. I have a thread gauge in metric and it's almost a 8 mm 1.5 thread, but although it will start, it binds after about one (gentle) turn? I have contacted the company and they say it's proprietary information and will not give me the thread nor do they make a 3m adapter that will work. I guess my question is, any idea what I'm dealing with, or if I go to a local machine shop will they be able to tell me what thread it is and be able to modify a 3M adapter with a little larger thread to fit it? The closest machine shop is quite a drive away from this ole country boy and I'd like not to waste a trip in these days of expensive gas! LOL Thanks again for a great video and any info you could provide would be appreciated!
I just did a search for Iwata to 3M adapters, lots of different ones available, I didn't find one specifically for the Vault TH2 but I'll bet there is one out there. This is he search I used "Iwata air brush cup adapter to 3M"
@@bradjohnson9671 I have searched all of them, believe me! 3M makes one for the Iwata LPH80 and their are side feed adapters for other spray guns which has a spin-on type mount but none for the Vault TH2. Iwata only made the Vault version of the TH2 for a limited edition and I was lucky enough to buy one during that time. Got it from a on-line beauty shop, LOL. But the TH2 is almost the same. Mine has a black handle and it's a little thicker handle than the TH2. But the cups are the same. Creos also makes a gun that's like the TH2 and those cups will screw on too. Iwata and Creos are sort of like the old Sears Kenmores being made in Maytag plants and a lot of the parts would interchange. I know because I have bought Creos cups to take with me to the machine shop when I go to have an adapter modified. If I knew what thread it was, I might be able to buy a die with that thread and I might be able to use my little lathe to turn it down and them use the die to thread it. But I'm no machinist, wish I was. So believe me when I say that I've tried everything I can think of. I have bought several taps that are odd size metric since my thread gauge didn't have a thread that size, but no luck finding the thread. I think it might be a JIS thread and I may buy a couple of pieces of hardware with those threads just to try them. a link to JIS threads -- www.malonespecialtyinc.com/product-category/jis-fittings-japanese-industrial-standard-fittings/jic-thread-specifications/
@@bradjohnson9671 Createx (the airbrush paint I use) has a channel and I saw Chris Alpin using a TH2 with a 3M cup on it and I contacted Chris about how they got the 3M to fit on their TH2. Chris said they just cut the plastic and slid the cup over the existing cup. But that doesn't solve my problem. I want to clean the gun leaving the unused paint in the cup which has a plastic cap that slips on the bottom of the 3M cup. The way they did it the cap will no longer fit on the cup as you have to 'cut' the bottom of the plastic 3M cup to make it fit. That means that the cup is not 'sealed' and leaves me with a metal cup that is still 'dirty' with a open hole in the metal cup.. My Vault TH2 is very expensive and I do not want paint hardening in it, plus I would like to be able to mix 3 oz. batches when I have larger projects. This has been a frustrating 'small' thing. But wasting a half cup of Createx UVLS clear, or mixing half a cup and finding out I don't have quite enough clear mixed to complete the project is costly and can result in ruining a painting as the clear needs to be applied before 'full' cure and since I paint on card stock, sanding it is very 'risky' procedure on paper, and I can ruin a painting that way as well. Some paintings take me days or even weeks to complete. I guess I'll have to go to a machine shop and talk with the machinist to see if they will be able to help me.
Your thread is a 5/16 diameter x 18 TPI most likely. 8mm x 1.5 = 0.3149 diameter x 0.0590 pitch 5/16 x 18 = 0.3125 diameter x 0.0555 pitch The difference in pitch isn't much but it would allow you to thread 1 or maybe two threads before binding. The difference in diameters doesn't matter seeing as they're so close to each other.
Here in Britain we also used cycle, BA, threads, not to mention Whitworths finer counterpart BSF or British Standard Fine, I presume the "inch" thread would be UNF/UNC, Unified Fine/Coarse, we also used an engineering thread where the pitch was fixed regardless of the diameter just to keep things interesting, I have a number of taps and dies down to 40tpi on a half inch tap/die, ideal for making adjustable depth guages and such like, we may have invented the standard but we went on to expand the system so no one was left out😊.
@@MrStephen777 I had forgotten about good old pipe thread, despite having used it recently, I believe electrical components used to have their own thread as well but not sure about that, any thoughts on this?, I remember trying to get screws for an old electric tool they were not BA, BSF, or cycle, BA was close but not right, I think I ended up robbing them from something else, possibly an engineering thread? but taps and dies like that were not available to me at the time, still I did a better job than grauching in a self tapper which was the other option!!.
Cool. I work in aviation and I have to deal with both ISO and SAE threads, which is interesting. And confusing, sometimes. Metric is for sure the better logic, but aviation still hangs on to SAE for the most parts, unfortunately. Regarding drill bits (as I've noticed some people commented), we only use metric drill bits, even for inch holes. It's just much easier to measure with a digital caliper and say "I need a 7.5mm drill", instead of dealing with the fractions.
Very informative. Thread basics in short time. Of course much more can be said. Lots of thread standards for specific purposes not mentioned. Nowadays, general fasteners are luckily usually M or UN.
Yes we agree on that. We will be working on more thread videos this year too. Its honestly endless information, but we will try our best to catch the main topics.
Very informative video but in a very simple & easy to understand language, particularly more effective because of appropriate visuals... Worthwhile using in academic presentations....👌👍🤠
Fantastic video, but one small correction for the *inch* thread. Its GENERAL USE is actually just to screw up everything. I had a contractor use imperial threads when he should have used metric. He just applied a little extra muscle, and of course the project was a disaster. 🤷
@@stevew278 Having two incompatible measuring systems is inefficient. It's a waste of everyone's time. Imperial is like a pothole in the road. Usually you can avoid the pothole but not always. The pothole needs to be fixed. American taxpayers lost $200M because a supplier on the NASA Mars Climate Orbiter used imperial. *Imperial is a convoluted mess, and using it is a choice -- a bad choice.*
@@MagnetOnlyMotors I'm not disputing it. I've 'studied' a LOT of manifold bolts, but I've never compared them to a tube of toothpaste. I'm more than happy to take your word for it. My previous comment was intended to convey wry humour.
@@trueaussie9230 I got the wryness. The manifold bolts were pre1950’s. Check out any old time wrecking yards or old time mechanics that may have noticed this. The nuts almost always unravelled with the least of profanities.
@@MagnetOnlyMotors Haha. No need to go to any 'old time wrecking yard'. I'll just check my garage. As for asking an 'old time mechanic' - that's me. Got no interest in working on vehicles made post 1980. I'll take a closer look at my toothpaste. 😉👍
Oops!! Forgot to mention: The 3 classes of fits! #1, #2, #3 UNC, UNF, UNEF - Unified National Coarse eg 1/4-20, Unified National Fine eg 1/4-28, Unified National Extra Fine 1/4-32
So is inch thread the same as Standard. What confused me is when I see Metric, I think the head of the bolt, but the video seems to be talking about the thread. So if there is Metric Thread, is there also Standard, is that Inch thread?
Отличное видео! Но есть еще резьба - узнал когда работал инженером по термопластавтоматам. Резьба на колоннах имеет переменный шаг, чтобы при сжатии прессформы с усилием от 800 тонн, равномерно были загружены витки резьбы и не сорвало гайку.
I've lived 74 years and had not been aware of this. I feel so lucky to have lived long enough to benefit from RUclips. Thank you ☺
In my 70 years I've never known this. (I wish I'd known earlier. Some projects might have run a little smoother. 🤣🤣)
We're never too old to learn. 😉😊😇👍
iam 31 now ...liked your comment
Same here soon to be 75 and I didn't know this about so many thread types. very interesting.
62🙃😉
Same age and RUclips has made my life so much easier as a DIY person.
Excellent video. I've spent almost thirty years operating manual lathes, and have cut many different types of threads.
There's one thread type that I've cut that you don't mention: Trapezoidal thread, similar to Acme, but with all metric dimensions.
Note to newbies: The differences between thread types are pretty obvious when they are drawn on paper or computer graphics, but not always so obvious when you are looking at a machine part, especially if it is worn.
Trivia: If you ever encounter an oddball thread that mixes an imperial diameter with a metric pitch, or vice versa, it was probably made in Italy. (It ain't stupid if it works...)
I never had to cut Trapezzoidal threads. We would puchase RH and LH threaded rods and machine the ends to our customers print.
I’ve cut many Trap, male/female threads some multi-start on Harrison M390 . What lathe you using?
nice comment
@@glengillham4629 Think I saw a video from Joe Pie or maybe Tom Lipton on that.
I did some multi-start external threads a few times when I 1st got my CNC.. Kool factor, but not practical. Food industry uses them I think. Plastic molded jars.
He mentions Trapezoidal thread in the description of Acme thread pitch.
Best five minutes I've spent in a long time. Thanks for the education.
Agreed
I doubt there is a more informative video on YT.
great vid, but you forgot the most common use for the "acme" thread: used in roadrunner traps.
I'm glad someone else recognized the legendary use of this thread pattern.
Unfortunately not the best endorsement for the Acme thread!!! Just never seemed to work! Beep, beep! 👍🤪
A company that makes everything
Groan. ;-)
😂
As a purveyor of random knowledge, this video was highly satisfying. Immediately saved as a resource for later. Thanks!
Here after are some additional information about Metric system
To find the drill size for hole that will be taped you just subtract the thread pitch.
Exemple:
M8 x 1.25 tap would need a 6.75 mm drill bit (8-1.25= 6.75)
Also every screw or nut revolution will make it progress 1.25mm
Also for small metric size you can find the wrench size you need by multiply the pitch by 10
Exemple:
M3 x 0.5 would be a 5mm wrench (0.5 x 10 = 5 ) and 2.5mm drill size
M4 x 0.7 would be a 7mm wrench and 3.3mm drill size
M5 x 0.8 would be a 8 mm wrench and 4.2mm drill size
M6 x 1.0 would be a 10mm wrench and 5mm drill size
M8 x 1.25 would be a 13mm wrench
Its all so... logical and purposefully done, oh that Si ;-)
Re: "you can find the wrench size you need by multiply the pitch by 10" That's not exactly true... It usually works but, for example, a M8 x 1.2 bolt or nut made to the old J.I.S (Japanese Industrial Standard) will use a 12mm wrench not a 13mm wrench. A lot of the JIS standards were changed in 1985 to match the ISO and DIN standards but I don't remember if this is one of them.
@@robertstout4764 ? 1.2 * 10 = 12
I've never seen metric drills on consumer market in US. Always fractional inch, decimal inch, wire size or letter size. I'm pretty sure I saw a few metric drills here and there working at Caterpillar, but mostly I recall decimal inch even though the prints were all metric. I've also seen odd hex sizes like 16mm hex on a 10mm bolt, 14 or 12 on an 8mm bolt, and that's not the special reduced size hex for clearance. Also 18 or 19 hex on a 12mm bolt. Mostly I see the odd hex sizes on Chinese stuff, but I've seen the 16mm head on 10mm Cat bolts with "CAT" logo on the head (not cheap China stuff).
@@bene5431 M8 x 1.2 was a typo. Should have said a M8 x1.25 bolt or nut made to a J.I.S standard
Thank You! The best descriptions I have ever seen regarding threads. Anyone getting involved with machining or mechanics should watch this and take note.
The WHITWORTH thread of huge historical significance because it marked the introduction of standard thread forms by Joseph Whitworth. Although most people take standard threadforms and other manufacturing standardisation for granted, Whitworth's standard thread and his other standardisation ideas brought a massive step forward in manufacturing efficiency from which we still benefit hugely today. Although fallen from use for general engineering, most RUclipsrs, and many other people, use Whitworth threads every day since 1/4" Whitworth is used for the tripod mounting thread on most still and small video cameras and 3/8" Whitworth on large video cameras. The Whitworth thread form is used for British Standard Pipe (BSP) threads, now renamed ISO R and ISO G.
That’s fascinating, I’ve been a photo hobbyist for 50+ years, and always assumed that tripod threads were just SAE. A standard 1/4-20 bolt mates fine with the standard camera socket. I kind of wonder why they didn’t just make them SAE at some point, are there some situations where they wouldn’t mate, or do they only mate due to over-generous tolerances?
These fasteners are intended for items that are finger tight and they need to be very easy to align and engage by unskilled users. For those reasons, the tolerance band can be large since a finely fitted high strength thread is not required. That wide tolerance band means that on most occasions both the 1/4 and 3/8 versions fit together regardless of which standard is used. However, since the Whitworth will have a deeper thread because of its narrower angle there can be interference. Probably more likely when fitting UNC screw into a Whitworth hole. A good reason to be extremely careful when mounting expensive, particularly classic, cameras onto low-cost mounts made recently in workshops of unknown origin.
Personally, I feel it is worth pressing home the point about Whitworth for cameras because it is just so cool keeping that important piece of 180 year old engineering history alive in every camera body and mount.
@@jimf671 Thanks for the detail, and especially the note about being careful with vintage cameras!
I sincerely doubt that any modern tripod is manufactured using Whitworth threads. According to every source I can find this standard now is UNC. they might be compatible because of the loose tolerances but whitworth threads are a product of a bygone era. Frankly I'm surprised they haven't switched to metric though that wouldn't be compatible I guess
Not sure about now but used to be used on all of the Limey bikes (m/c) years ago. ( great bikes, by the way👍)
I have no dealings with these items, so I have no idea what prompted me to watch this vid- but I'm glad I did. The graphics are superb, and the content was an education: I blush to admit I thought threaded things were much of a muchness. Now I know better. The complexity of their screwy anatomy has made my brain hurt (but in a good way) and henceforth I'll accord these humble fixings the respect they deserve. Thanks.
Great video! My first Machinery Handbook I purchased was used. Was the 20th edition 4th issue printed in 1978 and I've still have it. Long before we had Cad system in the shop along with all kinds of new tech that was amazing to us old timers. Cleveland MoMax cobalt was the good stuff back then. Finally convinced the owner to puchase carbide inserts. He was blown away by the time we saved him. Now you talk about a old school machinist he was the OG.
I am not a machinist per se... However I am a odd dude with a tendency to do some impromptu enginerdin'
I bought the 22nd edition in a used book store for 8 bucks...because it seemed like the library of Alexandra in a single book 🤓
Do I need this book? Not really at the moment but I don't think my sensibilities can let me leave without it 😂
Excellent vid with great animaton. One caveat for the newbies out there. Mass produced capscrews/bolts and nuts have ROLLED threads which have zero stress points at the rounded root and crest. This makes them stronger than MACHINED threads which have sharp edges at the root and crest. These sharp edges are stress prone and thus make machined capscrews/bolts and nuts weaker. ALWAYS use fasteners with rolled threads whenever possible, especially in high load and/or vibration prone areas.
Quite possibly my best time investment in RUclips to-date. Outstanding video, and the lack of voices or crap music was a pleasant change. Thanks for the education!
i watched the entire video without even having particular interest in threads... just becasue the video was done so well.
100% Excellent. SImple and to the point while informing with clarity.
Thank you for the information! Such content I've never had before. Now I know why screws are often so different.
when Archimedes invented the screw in 521 AD the first person he showed it to said " Can i get one a half inch longer ? "
What makes you think Archimedes invented "the screw" rather than a *very specific version of it* that could lift water...?
@@AttilaAsztalos it's a joke
Archimedes lived before Christ was born.
@@chrysoval8681what does that have to do with anything
@@TheCubeFactor Why?
It's 0522 and I've already learned something today. Fantastic video! Thank you.
EXCELLENT info for most anyone from any sector (DIYer to Pro).
Great vid. Thanks for putting the info together with excellent video graphics.
Best thread video explanation I've ever seen.
A great video, some standards I have not come across before, many thanks for a top class tutorial ...
Incredibly useful information well and clearly presented. Thank you so much!
Gave the pause function a workout, and saved vid too much cool info to absorb. Comments added even more insight/info. Thanks to all!
A day class's worth of info. Excellent!
Dude great job. I've been at this for a while and still I learned something. I am going to use this video as an introduction to threads for my young employees. I subbed and looking for more.
I appreciate it!! I’ll do my best to give back. I’ve worked too hard to not share what I’ve been learning. Good luck with your apprentices!
@@Machining-tutorials
I love your attitude.
Information only has value if it's shared. 👍
It is very common for ACME threads to have more than one start as well. Typically used in heavy axial drive screw assemblies, they are very good for powerful and steep drive work such as single-index gear cutters and hobbing machines. Another variety of WORM SCREW designs have a saddle taper or straight taper so adjustment can be made as wear sets in. Not as common, but found in some older Gould and Eberhart hobbing machine table drives. A splendid way of maintaining tightness over decades of machine use. And lastly, there are certain ball screw designs not covered here.
Thank you for a very nice primer on thread design.
Una breve clase educativa, OBLIGADA para cualquier estudiante de ingeniería mecánica o técnico en uso de torno.
Breve, preciso, conciso... en fin, ESPECTACULAR¡¡.
Откуда вы? Ютуб перевёл ваш текст прекрасно! Главное точно!
Very Nicely Done , It's as if my machinery handbook came to life with a quaint song playing in the background. P.S. It's much more than 5 minutes with the pauses.
Very good video!
I have been in the thread business for a long time, but this video has refreshed much that I have forgotten. Thank you for a great video.
I will keep it in my resource for future reference.
Your video is very professional and image-oriented. We also pay special attention to thread problems when processing.Thank you very much.
Thank you! This is one of THE most useful videos I have ever watched - after almost 40 years in Movie Special effects Engineering!
I wish I saw this video 15 years ago, but I am damn sure glad I've seen it now. Saved, and subscribed.
Thank you so much for this! So useful and well explained!
Thanks! That was great and very informative.🇺🇸🤠
Fellow screw guru here. Thanks for the video. The new guys always ask me how I know so much about fasteners and screws. I reply the Machinist handbook and I went to college for screws. You ought to see my college sports wear from Screw University. 😉
Screw-U !
Simple, easy, neat, concise, precise, excellent. Greets from Venezuela
Wow, I had no idea. Thank you for sharing this video. Excellent job.
What a gem of vintage tractor Lance! I can sense your enthusiasm in restoring this beauty we shall look forward in viewing future videos on this and thank you for producing them.
I did my time as a Fitter Machinist and Tool maker, we used Form Threads on most of our Specialised Machines. Our form threads were Pitch and Angle independent of any known threads. Each Machine we sent out had a unique array of Form Threads in Critical Areas. The idea being no other company could Economically Repair our machines, as no off the shelf threads would fit. In other words we made our own nuts and bolts. We were therefore Guaranteed the Maintenance Contract for the life of our Machines, some of which were still operating for more than thirty years.
@Michael John you have just described the EXACT reason why Sir Joseph Whitworth designed the thread that bears his name ... It was costing British industry a small fortune in holding or making custom threads and WITHOUT Whitworth it would have been an impossibility for the industrial revolution to have progressed as rapidly as it did!
@@boblewis5558 Yes Bob, you are 100% correct. When involved in the maintenance of machinery, it is frustrating and maddening to come across odd threads. When I find these odd threads nowadays, I smile.. Karma is a bitch. Cheers from Michael. Australia.😁
That is an evil paractice. Don't give John Deere any ideas.
Znakomity materiał! Brawo!
Awesome video man I really thought it was informative for how nice and short it was 😎
Thanks. This a great reference.
Beautiful graphics, great presentation.
Thank you.
Many thanks!
Excellent video. Outstanding, actually
Excellent work, clear, concise, thank you very much.
i had to make an adapter for stretching some tierods . they were about 12 inch diameter with a german butress type thread. managed to adapt a 35 degree insert cutter to a shank and use a cnc machining center and thread milling to do it. that took some thinking to figure out . it was a -5 degree 30 degree thread.
Excellent video, thank you !
Thank you,great clarifying examples explaining the functions and differences.
This is a great video WOW, the music a very good choice the edit well done are things I needed to know. Many Tanks...
never too old to learn, the worm thread looks the strongest, new sub, thanks!
THAT was more interesting than I was expecting
Brilliant video
BRAVO video is put together very very well, it's also very informative, THKS !... music is on point !... BRAVO !!!!
Great video. Informative and entertaining.
Thanks for this video.
Great tutorial of thread types with excellent examples and information.
Thanks for sharing.
As a machinist who is trying to improve his trade, thank you for this
A very good introduction to the topic.
Fascinating!
Thank you for posting. Very illuminating.
So informative. I would have studied this and done the homework without fail to learn this in my schooldays. I know I would have done well.
Wow! I was unaware that there were so many different types. Thanks!
THANKS! THIS, and then the length, the diameter, the head, the material, the manufacturer etc., is why my eyes just blaze over when I go into the fastener section of a big box store--and why I usually pick mine up at a small, mom-and-pa store.
Great Vid. I love interesting factoid type stuff like this. Who knew there were so many different types- super cool and Thanks.
You have made it so easy to learn.
TYSM I have a test on threads tomorrow morning and without this information I would have been *screwed*
this is pure gold, thank you, subscribed!
Excellent content and background music. thanks for maker.
Thanks, I did learn something useful.
Very informative video.
Thank you very much.
Liked and subscribed. When I was a kid, I got my A&P and set to restoring warbirds. Fasteners were a much bigger world than I’d have even thought to ask about. I picked up a AN hardware and fasteners book at Oshkosh, read the ink right out of it.
This video got a lot better once I realized there was no useful audio and muted it. Your animation of the threads spinning around was pretty, but it would have appreciated about one more second to read the text as it's not that possible to pause on the phone and still have everything readable. good presentation,
If you pause the video and then tap the video itself, not the pause button, it will clear all that off the screen and you can see/read it with no problem. That's what I do anyway
Choose a different 'play' speed.
It's not feasible for 1 video to cater for all 'special needs'.
@@trueaussie9230 that's a really good idea. Thank you
@@spacecase0
No worries, mate.
Also @Jeri Kropp's advice is worthwhile.
It took a LOOOOOONG time before I discovered you can remove the 'overlay' from a paused video.
Good luck in the future.
😉😊😇👍
I spent most of my working life doing mechanical repairs in a wide range of fields. I can still differentiate beween unified, metric, and whitworth fasteners at a glance. I once looked through a book of thread types in a friends engineering shop, it was the size of a bible! However this covers the basics, and explains why different threads are used for different puposes.
L7
Excellent information, understandable and clear. Thanks very much for making this video!
Very informative and helpful interesting
Kudos and thanks! This was so clear, concise and understandable, it’s by far the best reference on thread types I’ve seen - thanks again!
(Just scanned your other vids - new subscriber! 😁)
Glad it was helpful!
Just found your channel, great video! I'm not a machinist, but sometimes do make things for my personal use! Love the video clears up a lot for me! I do airbrushing (as a hobby, I'm retired!) and I have an Iwata Vault Th2 (it's larger than normal airbrush) that has a screw-on paint cup! Iwata is Japanese made and it's a great spraygun/brush with a round and flat spray pattern that I use for mostly clearing my finished paintings. I wanted to get a 3M PPS 2.0 adapter for it so I could use the 3 oz. paint cups on it to save a little $ by putting the cap on the plastic cup when I finished or if I'd like to give a coat the next day and not waste the clear I already have mixed! It's about a 2 day pot life once the paint is mixed if sealed! I want to be able to clean my gun but save the paint, which the 3M cup would allow me to do. But the thread is not a normal thread. I have a thread gauge in metric and it's almost a 8 mm 1.5 thread, but although it will start, it binds after about one (gentle) turn? I have contacted the company and they say it's proprietary information and will not give me the thread nor do they make a 3m adapter that will work. I guess my question is, any idea what I'm dealing with, or if I go to a local machine shop will they be able to tell me what thread it is and be able to modify a 3M adapter with a little larger thread to fit it? The closest machine shop is quite a drive away from this ole country boy and I'd like not to waste a trip in these days of expensive gas! LOL Thanks again for a great video and any info you could provide would be appreciated!
I just did a search for Iwata to 3M adapters, lots of different ones available, I didn't find one specifically for the Vault TH2 but I'll bet there is one out there.
This is he search I used "Iwata air brush cup adapter to 3M"
@@bradjohnson9671 I have searched all of them, believe me! 3M makes one for the Iwata LPH80 and their are side feed adapters for other spray guns which has a spin-on type mount but none for the Vault TH2. Iwata only made the Vault version of the TH2 for a limited edition and I was lucky enough to buy one during that time. Got it from a on-line beauty shop, LOL. But the TH2 is almost the same. Mine has a black handle and it's a little thicker handle than the TH2. But the cups are the same. Creos also makes a gun that's like the TH2 and those cups will screw on too. Iwata and Creos are sort of like the old Sears Kenmores being made in Maytag plants and a lot of the parts would interchange. I know because I have bought Creos cups to take with me to the machine shop when I go to have an adapter modified. If I knew what thread it was, I might be able to buy a die with that thread and I might be able to use my little lathe to turn it down and them use the die to thread it. But I'm no machinist, wish I was. So believe me when I say that I've tried everything I can think of. I have bought several taps that are odd size metric since my thread gauge didn't have a thread that size, but no luck finding the thread. I think it might be a JIS thread and I may buy a couple of pieces of hardware with those threads just to try them. a link to JIS threads -- www.malonespecialtyinc.com/product-category/jis-fittings-japanese-industrial-standard-fittings/jic-thread-specifications/
@@bradjohnson9671 Createx (the airbrush paint I use) has a channel and I saw Chris Alpin using a TH2 with a 3M cup on it and I contacted Chris about how they got the 3M to fit on their TH2. Chris said they just cut the plastic and slid the cup over the existing cup. But that doesn't solve my problem. I want to clean the gun leaving the unused paint in the cup which has a plastic cap that slips on the bottom of the 3M cup. The way they did it the cap will no longer fit on the cup as you have to 'cut' the bottom of the plastic 3M cup to make it fit. That means that the cup is not 'sealed' and leaves me with a metal cup that is still 'dirty' with a open hole in the metal cup.. My Vault TH2 is very expensive and I do not want paint hardening in it, plus I would like to be able to mix 3 oz. batches when I have larger projects. This has been a frustrating 'small' thing. But wasting a half cup of Createx UVLS clear, or mixing half a cup and finding out I don't have quite enough clear mixed to complete the project is costly and can result in ruining a painting as the clear needs to be applied before 'full' cure and since I paint on card stock, sanding it is very 'risky' procedure on paper, and I can ruin a painting that way as well. Some paintings take me days or even weeks to complete. I guess I'll have to go to a machine shop and talk with the machinist to see if they will be able to help me.
If you can find a thread cutter to match the Japanese thread screw the bastard 3m out to the Japanese thread.
Your thread is a 5/16 diameter x 18 TPI most likely.
8mm x 1.5 = 0.3149 diameter x 0.0590 pitch
5/16 x 18 = 0.3125 diameter x 0.0555 pitch
The difference in pitch isn't much but it would allow you to thread 1 or maybe two threads before binding. The difference in diameters doesn't matter seeing as they're so close to each other.
Excellent
Nice! I could've named 2 of those before watching this.
GREAT VIDEO!!! THANKS!!!
Here in Britain we also used cycle, BA, threads, not to mention Whitworths finer counterpart BSF or British Standard Fine, I presume the "inch" thread would be UNF/UNC, Unified Fine/Coarse, we also used an engineering thread where the pitch was fixed regardless of the diameter just to keep things interesting, I have a number of taps and dies down to 40tpi on a half inch tap/die, ideal for making adjustable depth guages and such like, we may have invented the standard but we went on to expand the system so no one was left out😊.
I was wondering why BSF was not featured. Also BSPT thread, Also Interrupted screw, I have collection of old taps and dies. yes use them.
@@MrStephen777 I had forgotten about good old pipe thread, despite having used it recently, I believe electrical components used to have their own thread as well but not sure about that, any thoughts on this?, I remember trying to get screws for an old electric tool they were not BA, BSF, or cycle, BA was close but not right, I think I ended up robbing them from something else, possibly an engineering thread? but taps and dies like that were not available to me at the time, still I did a better job than grauching in a self tapper which was the other option!!.
@@MrStephen777 The basic square thread was also not shown. Other than straight flanks (no taper) its identical to the modified square thread.
Nice job on presentation, thanks!
Cool. I work in aviation and I have to deal with both ISO and SAE threads, which is interesting. And confusing, sometimes. Metric is for sure the better logic, but aviation still hangs on to SAE for the most parts, unfortunately.
Regarding drill bits (as I've noticed some people commented), we only use metric drill bits, even for inch holes. It's just much easier to measure with a digital caliper and say "I need a 7.5mm drill", instead of dealing with the fractions.
Very impressive video!!. How do you make your animations?
So interesting. Thank you
As I remember it whitworth threads from my old British motorcycle days where easy to cross thread and to strip!
Whitworth is still around and popular , 1/4" BSW is the standard camera mount thread .
Very useful video, thanks.
Very good presentation. The areas of applicability would also be useful.
Very informative. Thread basics in short time.
Of course much more can be said. Lots of thread standards for specific purposes not mentioned.
Nowadays, general fasteners are luckily usually M or UN.
Yes we agree on that. We will be working on more thread videos this year too. Its honestly endless information, but we will try our best to catch the main topics.
Thank you for sharing. Very informing video
Thank you, well prepared video
Very informative video but in a very simple & easy to understand language, particularly more effective because of appropriate visuals... Worthwhile using in academic presentations....👌👍🤠
Excellent, a very informative video
Fantastic video, but one small correction for the *inch* thread. Its GENERAL USE is actually just to screw up everything. I had a contractor use imperial threads when he should have used metric. He just applied a little extra muscle, and of course the project was a disaster. 🤷
so he used the wrong type of bolt for the hole, how is that the fault of imperial threads and not his fault for not knowing the difference?
@@stevew278 Having two incompatible measuring systems is inefficient. It's a waste of everyone's time. Imperial is like a pothole in the road. Usually you can avoid the pothole but not always. The pothole needs to be fixed. American taxpayers lost $200M because a supplier on the NASA Mars Climate Orbiter used imperial. *Imperial is a convoluted mess, and using it is a choice -- a bad choice.*
3:00 I remember seeing this type of thread on exhaust manifolds. Always released. Now they are on tooth paste caps.
Try to not confuse your exhaust manifold with your toothpaste tube.
😉😊😇
@@trueaussie9230 but this is true !
@@MagnetOnlyMotors
I'm not disputing it.
I've 'studied' a LOT of manifold bolts, but I've never compared them to a tube of toothpaste.
I'm more than happy to take your word for it.
My previous comment was intended to convey wry humour.
@@trueaussie9230 I got the wryness. The manifold bolts were pre1950’s. Check out any old time wrecking yards or old time mechanics that may have noticed this. The nuts almost always unravelled with the least of profanities.
@@MagnetOnlyMotors
Haha. No need to go to any 'old time wrecking yard'. I'll just check my garage.
As for asking an 'old time mechanic' - that's me.
Got no interest in working on vehicles made post 1980.
I'll take a closer look at my toothpaste. 😉👍
Very informative. Tks.
Most excellent video --- had no idea so many threads existed and for what application. Many thanks!
Oops!! Forgot to mention:
The 3 classes of fits! #1, #2, #3
UNC, UNF, UNEF - Unified National Coarse eg 1/4-20, Unified National Fine eg 1/4-28, Unified National Extra Fine 1/4-32
So is inch thread the same as Standard.
What confused me is when I see Metric, I think the head of the bolt, but the video seems to be talking about the thread.
So if there is Metric Thread, is there also Standard, is that Inch thread?
Отличное видео! Но есть еще резьба - узнал когда работал инженером по термопластавтоматам. Резьба на колоннах имеет переменный шаг, чтобы при сжатии прессформы с усилием от 800 тонн, равномерно были загружены витки резьбы и не сорвало гайку.
Superb presentation!