Should the roof/ceiling mass equal the outer/inner wall mass? I am converting a wooden garage with an outer brick facade with a simple plywood, roof paper, shingle roof. It seems to me I need to add more mass to the roof and ceiling to equal the mass of wall layer. My thought is to add MLV and resilient channels to ceiling along with insulation and double drywall. I'm concerned about the added weight to the pre-existing roof. Any tips? Thanks for all the tutorials and info!
Hey John this is a bit more complicated to answer in a message thread. Sign up for a free soundproof clarity call if you still need some help: calendly.com/soundproofyourstudio/soundproof-clarity-call-evergreen
I was wondering the same thing. I've been told soundproofing is only as good as the weakest link. So even if there are no windows and a complex door system, it's hard to imagine the roof/ceiling would be able to match the very low-frequency attenuation of the concrete without extreme and complex measures
@@mountains1233 I opted to match the ceiling to the wall treatment - 5/8" drywall between studs, 3" mineral wool insulation, resilient channels, 2 layers 5/8" drywall - and got consistent results. The only difference is the roofing material on top and bricks around the sides. The planes flying overhead are practically inaudible and I no longer hear the train rumble or horn blow from 4 blocks away. My weakest link is the window and door system as predicted.
Commercial passenger planes. My house is directly under the one of the flight paths for takeoffs and landings. I'm about 5 miles from the airport and although the planes aren't very low flying their engine noise can be very audible. @@mountains1233
Hello! I'm planning to turn my garage into a recording studio, it's made out of thick bricks. If I would build a room within a room system, with studs and plasterboard and a few inch gap between the two walls, shouldn't I need something like a vapor barrier or something (behind the insulated wall)? I live in central europe, so the winters are cold and the summers are hot. Here people don't really "insulate" their houses from the inside, cause it gives a lot of problem with condensation behind the insulation material. Is there any working method for this type of construction? Thanks! Btw, your videos really helped me to understand the basics of soundproofing! Cheers
Yes a vapor barrier is good in any building. The key is to place it somewhere in your wall and keep it continuous from wall to roof. I like a book called pretty good home for more info on best practices. Will make a video on it too.
problem with concrete is the rebar which caries shock like no tomorrow. I worked in construction for 5-6 years & it can be surprising to some how much steel is in concrete. Good vid bud 👍
Yes, the denser the material the faster sound travels and the easier it is for it to travel through it at great distances. Concrete and metal are excellent examples of this happening. The key is to decouple the mass from the two walls creating a mass spring mass system.
@@soundproofyourstudio I was amazed at how much more damping sand provides than grout in a non-structural CMU wall. I read this the other day in Rod Gervais' book. (Thanks again for recommending it!)
The way soundproofing works is that if you attenuate below 100 hz you will certainly block out higher frequencies too. Pre cast concrete would work well since it has a lot of mass. The mass will help with blocking the energy of sub 100hz.
Thanks! Great advice - I already have a double brick cavity wall here in the UK. Just wondering if there is anything you recommend to add to the outside wall to help?
Question-- If you're trying to block sound from coming IN-- is there any benefit to flipping this design? Like wood framed exterior with insulation, but then a brick wall on the interior with an air gap? I've got issues with Harley Davidsons and the bass from rap music :)
The bass from rap music is super tough, but you can deaden both to a better volume. It is the same either way. I think the brick will be heavier than drywall this soundproof better.
Hi, I have a question.? I am building a recording studio with a concrete wall because of space. I intend to use Mass Vinyl, then the Stud with insulation between the stud after that, another layer of mass Vinyl with a 5/8 Sheet rock panel. Can that work?
I don’t recommend MLV. It is not as efficient at soundproofing low frequencies as green glue. I am not sure I follow your design, but I am worried it probably won’t work.
My design is Building Concrete blocks as my building frame. After that will build a second wall with MLV. MLV will be attached to the back of the studs, then rock wool insulation following that is another layer of MLV and 5/8 gypsum panels. Hopefully, that explains it a little better.
MLV works great at stoping sound waves. The low frequency problem he’s talking about can be helped tremendously by decoupling the walls. Basically making it so that low frequencies hitting one side of a given wall can’t vibrate through the whole wall.
@@301cclint What I would recommend with your design is to build the second wall and use either IB-3 clips or whisper clips to attach it to your concrete blocks or roof beams. This will keep that wall from moving side to side and will stop sound. I would for go the MLV and use two layers of drywall with green glue. MLV does not stop low frequencies as well as Green glue.
Very useful video The comparison you do at 4:57 using that picture would be more interesting and fair if you compared STC of 18" concrete wall too So if we have 18" space to place a wall(like the picture above at 4:57) is it better to fill that completely with concrete or an air gap between?
This whole video is to say : double walls better than a single wall for sound insulation
Yes
A big waste of time
Thanks You save me time
Our exterior walls are already double brick in South Africa 🇿🇦
If you want sound proofing, Acoustic Fields is your go to company. Most stuff is just BS that doesn't work.
Should the roof/ceiling mass equal the outer/inner wall mass? I am converting a wooden garage with an outer brick facade with a simple plywood, roof paper, shingle roof. It seems to me I need to add more mass to the roof and ceiling to equal the mass of wall layer. My thought is to add MLV and resilient channels to ceiling along with insulation and double drywall. I'm concerned about the added weight to the pre-existing roof. Any tips?
Thanks for all the tutorials and info!
Hey John this is a bit more complicated to answer in a message thread. Sign up for a free soundproof clarity call if you still need some help: calendly.com/soundproofyourstudio/soundproof-clarity-call-evergreen
I was wondering the same thing. I've been told soundproofing is only as good as the weakest link. So even if there are no windows and a complex door system, it's hard to imagine the roof/ceiling would be able to match the very low-frequency attenuation of the concrete without extreme and complex measures
@@mountains1233 I opted to match the ceiling to the wall treatment - 5/8" drywall between studs, 3" mineral wool insulation, resilient channels, 2 layers 5/8" drywall - and got consistent results. The only difference is the roofing material on top and bricks around the sides. The planes flying overhead are practically inaudible and I no longer hear the train rumble or horn blow from 4 blocks away. My weakest link is the window and door system as predicted.
@@JohnPapaGros What kind of planes are you dealing with?
Commercial passenger planes. My house is directly under the one of the flight paths for takeoffs and landings. I'm about 5 miles from the airport and although the planes aren't very low flying their engine noise can be very audible.
@@mountains1233
Hello! I'm planning to turn my garage into a recording studio, it's made out of thick bricks. If I would build a room within a room system, with studs and plasterboard and a few inch gap between the two walls, shouldn't I need something like a vapor barrier or something (behind the insulated wall)? I live in central europe, so the winters are cold and the summers are hot. Here people don't really "insulate" their houses from the inside, cause it gives a lot of problem with condensation behind the insulation material. Is there any working method for this type of construction? Thanks! Btw, your videos really helped me to understand the basics of soundproofing! Cheers
Yes a vapor barrier is good in any building. The key is to place it somewhere in your wall and keep it continuous from wall to roof. I like a book called pretty good home for more info on best practices. Will make a video on it too.
I want to put a thick veneer on an existing external stucco wall to help mitigate the noise level from traffic.
Any suggestions?
Think about mass and decoupling. You want both to reduce sound transmission
problem with concrete is the rebar which caries shock like no tomorrow. I worked in construction for 5-6 years & it can be surprising to some how much steel is in concrete.
Good vid bud 👍
Yes, the denser the material the faster sound travels and the easier it is for it to travel through it at great distances. Concrete and metal are excellent examples of this happening. The key is to decouple the mass from the two walls creating a mass spring mass system.
@@soundproofyourstudio I was amazed at how much more damping sand provides than grout in a non-structural CMU wall. I read this the other day in Rod Gervais' book.
(Thanks again for recommending it!)
I saw a video reel about pre-cast concrete. Is this feasible for at least a non-decoupled system? I'm only interested in sub-100Hz attenuation.
The way soundproofing works is that if you attenuate below 100 hz you will certainly block out higher frequencies too. Pre cast concrete would work well since it has a lot of mass. The mass will help with blocking the energy of sub 100hz.
Thanks! Great advice - I already have a double brick cavity wall here in the UK. Just wondering if there is anything you recommend to add to the outside wall to help?
Yes insulation in the wall cavity for damping resonances
and on the outside of the brick wall? Thanks@@soundproofyourstudio
Hello, is double brick (without gap) wall good enough for music studio.
The gap is important and so is insulation in the gap.
Question-- If you're trying to block sound from coming IN-- is there any benefit to flipping this design? Like wood framed exterior with insulation, but then a brick wall on the interior with an air gap? I've got issues with Harley Davidsons and the bass from rap music :)
The bass from rap music is super tough, but you can deaden both to a better volume. It is the same either way. I think the brick will be heavier than drywall this soundproof better.
Hi, I have a question.? I am building a recording studio with a concrete wall because of space. I intend to use Mass Vinyl, then the Stud with insulation between the stud after that, another layer of mass Vinyl with a 5/8 Sheet rock panel. Can that work?
I don’t recommend MLV. It is not as efficient at soundproofing low frequencies as green glue. I am not sure I follow your design, but I am worried it probably won’t work.
My design is Building Concrete blocks as my building frame. After that will build a second wall with MLV. MLV will be attached to the back of the studs, then rock wool insulation following that is another layer of MLV and 5/8 gypsum panels. Hopefully, that explains it a little better.
MLV works great at stoping sound waves. The low frequency problem he’s talking about can be helped tremendously by decoupling the walls. Basically making it so that low frequencies hitting one side of a given wall can’t vibrate through the whole wall.
@@301cclint What I would recommend with your design is to build the second wall and use either IB-3 clips or whisper clips to attach it to your concrete blocks or roof beams. This will keep that wall from moving side to side and will stop sound. I would for go the MLV and use two layers of drywall with green glue. MLV does not stop low frequencies as well as Green glue.
Very useful video
The comparison you do at 4:57 using that picture would be more interesting and fair if you compared STC of 18" concrete wall too
So if we have 18" space to place a wall(like the picture above at 4:57) is it better to fill that completely with concrete or an air gap between?
The air gap is essential to create the mass spring mass system needed to stop sound. Thanks for watching!
@@soundproofyourstudio so do you guess a 18" concrete wall has STC lower than 59?
That 2 1/2" thick Everest book sits in my bathroom for the past 25 years because that's how long it'll take to slog through it!
Yeah it’s more theory than application too