In videos on youtube there is information, that the main advantage of playing backup copy is not wearing laser, but Swiss loading disc rotates all the time console is on. Maybe it's better to take disc out after Swiss is loaded to not wearing laser?
I don't know why, but sometimes my xenochip would work and sometimes it won't. After playing for a while and rebooting or resetting the GC - the Xenochip light will not come on anymore. However, a little tap on the top of the GC would get it to work again. Not sure if it's a connection issue, but I made sure there were no bridged solder points. Your video really helped do this mod as my first soldering job, and it was definitely a bit difficult, but thank you!
I just did this mod today and I also only get a solid red light (noticed yours blinked which I heard some models do that instead of turning green when working) I think my mistake is I filled that second power hole at the top as that’s what I saw someone else do. He didn’t seem to have a problem with his, which is making the project confusing. Lol I’m just surprised the Swiss disk worked without tampering with the disc laser which I hear has to be done.
The lasers on the GC aren't failing like some videos want you to believe. There are a couple caps on the optical board that are starting to show high resistance, and it keeps the signal from passing. We wound up changing those caps. Check my channel, and you will find the cap video. Once they are changed... your GC will run everything perfectly.
Normally the laser would have to be recalibrated using the potentiometer. The standard is 175 ohms. However, a self-burned DVD cannot still be read with this setting, it would have to be 50 ohms and an original game can no longer be read with 50 ohms. Either or ...?
@@PghGameFix lol I'm in New Hampshire, so I might need to ship it. I can't do the SD2SP method, I have gamecube without that port. I am lucky my model has digital out.
Generally... no. Basically, the bad caps are keeping the signal from passing. Running the gain up helps... but with new caps (If they are bad) should run the factory gain.
thanks for the tutorial, Ill be using your video for my own which im nervous about. I wanna do it the right way
In videos on youtube there is information, that the main advantage of playing backup copy is not wearing laser, but Swiss loading disc rotates all the time console is on. Maybe it's better to take disc out after Swiss is loaded to not wearing laser?
I don't know why, but sometimes my xenochip would work and sometimes it won't. After playing for a while and rebooting or resetting the GC - the Xenochip light will not come on anymore. However, a little tap on the top of the GC would get it to work again. Not sure if it's a connection issue, but I made sure there were no bridged solder points.
Your video really helped do this mod as my first soldering job, and it was definitely a bit difficult, but thank you!
I just did this mod today and I also only get a solid red light (noticed yours blinked which I heard some models do that instead of turning green when working) I think my mistake is I filled that second power hole at the top as that’s what I saw someone else do. He didn’t seem to have a problem with his, which is making the project confusing. Lol
I’m just surprised the Swiss disk worked without tampering with the disc laser which I hear has to be done.
The lasers on the GC aren't failing like some videos want you to believe. There are a couple caps on the optical board that are starting to show high resistance, and it keeps the signal from passing. We wound up changing those caps. Check my channel, and you will find the cap video. Once they are changed... your GC will run everything perfectly.
Here's the cap video. ruclips.net/video/NJDwQZNCjDk/видео.html
@@PghGameFix thanks. I’ll check it out once I reach that step. I still can’t get passed the one solid red light. Don’t see what I’m doing wrong
Normally the laser would have to be recalibrated using the potentiometer. The standard is 175 ohms. However, a self-burned DVD cannot still be read with this setting, it would have to be 50 ohms and an original game can no longer be read with 50 ohms. Either or ...?
If you have your GC laser down that far... your laser is warn out. Time for a replacement.
I'm doing this when the GC Loader comes back in stock. If I'm not confident in soldering, I can contact you right?
Absolutely. If you are local, you can drop it at Warpzone.
@@PghGameFix lol I'm in New Hampshire, so I might need to ship it. I can't do the SD2SP method, I have gamecube without that port. I am lucky my model has digital out.
No need to adjust the laser strength?
Generally... no. Basically, the bad caps are keeping the signal from passing. Running the gain up helps... but with new caps (If they are bad) should run the factory gain.
Hello can you please please help me with my ps4 because it is Said no signal
Could be a lot of things. Bad cable, bad port, bad tv, bad encoder chip... bad APU.
How much would you charge to do it if I get the chip
Depends if you supply the chip, or I do, and if you are local (for shipping). But the "Install" is $35.
4:45 - Install
Sorry if I sound mean, I just want others to know
For the people that want to install Swiss without installing a chip, there's a way
Yep.... use an action replay.
There’s nothing wrong with bootlegs