You guys are awesome. Thank you for putting out such good information. There are so many shade tree buffoons and grifter jerks putting videos up about 12 valves it’s just sad. I will be purchasing lots of parts from DDP in the future. Thanks again!
Enjoyed,😊 I have a 1995 dodge 2500 290,000, plenty of blow by, starts well, with toe. Cold stats a bit harder, think only 1 heat grid working. Appears to be stock. P pump appears to have been exchanged, has label from company I traced to be in Florida. Nv4500 that I baby,does not want to shift fast, all gears working ok. Changed transmission fluid with mt-85, no difference. Came with south bend clutch,so far ok. Had truck about 1 1/2 years. Collecting parts , head studs, exhaust manifold, valve springs, mainly stud for eventual fuel modifications. Needs some tlc, runs ok for now. Might give you a call.
Hell yeah. love the video, you answered a lot of questions I had and some I didn’t even realize I had till I started watching. It’s hard to find proven dyno/experienced info on these pumps that explains the cause and effect of the “go to mods”everyone seems to say to do to them, that has also been the same for 15-20 years. Glad to see someone trying new things and finessing old mods with modern knowledge and getting more enjoyable power out of them
Interesting. I’ve always heard the 215 pump had timing notches which retard the timing for starting. The only time the rack ever goes to this position is during cranking when the fulcrum lever is below the stop plate. The notion of timing advancement with RPM (which would require an upper helix) is totally new to me. One of us is wrong. You guys make great products and videos. Keep up the good work!
That was a very great explanation. You did a phenomenal job about clearing a lot of muddy waters that I've had in my mind in understanding ppump operation. I have often asked myself why things are the way they are and you really shed light on these things. Great insight... You are truly a wealth of knowledge and information.
To tune my aneroide spring I hooked up shop air to a gauge and made it move about a inch forward with 15psi which seemed to be perfect for me since boost pressure rises so fast.
Thank you for this info! Great stuff. I have a1993 VE 12 v 2500 chassis mounted under a 1947 GMC COE flatbed, and a 1997 180 pump, 12 valve, 5 speed 4x4 2500 chassis mounted under a 1947 Dodge Power Wagon with 47 inch tires, and daily drive 1997 Dodge 3500 dully 12 v, 215 pump 5 speed. Love them all. I only wish (now) that I did not live in NorCal!,,,,, sure could use your fine tuning experience. Thank you again.
Sounds like a similar setup I’m going to be running in the next couple years. Have my daily built 12v 2500 I’m finishing the first engine rebuild on. Running DDP stage 3 injectors with the pilot hole setup, 12mm 160 pump maxed out, and plan on 22* timing. I have 2 other 12v motors I’ll rebuild and swap into a couple vehicles as well. Wanting to do a land cruiser with the 12v swap, setup to around 400whp so it’s simple and million mile capable, 4x4 etc. The next swap would be soon as find a great candidate for a troll camping vehicle. Thinking of a 12v swapped 10 speed Eaton 4door Deuce M35, an F800, or international with a bed to be able to have the family in and pack all the gear into and go anywhere
Great info Lenny. I practically crossed paths with you today, I was rolling into Spokane about the time you were heading west out of there shooting this video!
That was the best break down of a 12v i have heard after listening to way to many videos. You really made me think about what i have. I have done some things to my 12v but the last owner did quite a bit i just need to figure out exactly what. I have a 96 12v auto on a 98 body lifted running 35" tires, 3:54 gears, banks twin air intake and 4" exhuast. Im not into black clouds of smoke so did back off afc. Truck runs and drives decent not very quick from the start but mid is not bad and top really opens up. So not knowing everything done bugs me so i want to go thru and check or redo the settings and things with a question mark. Ive had several 24v trucks and have thrown in more air better exhuast with a programmer and shes ripping down the road. I got bored and wanted and old school cummins 12v so here iam. Your video really has me thinking about it. Im looking for a 4-500 hp daily runner that i can take on trips and tow when needed and just enjoy driving knowing i have some power under my foot when needed. Im hoping to swap tranny to a manual trans in the future. Based on what youve said where or what do i need to do to get there? Ive heard alot of ideas but but you really got this down. Any info would be great. thanks mike 180 p pump 0 plate afc and stock gov springs borg warner turbo ? newer injectors ? Not sure what size delivery valves ? Not sure if changed pump timing ? Not sure where its set
You can get to 500hp on a 180 pump, but from our experience, it can be slightly difficult. We will be getting back in to more P-Pump content now that we have our new dyno setup. We also may, or may not, have some P-Pump test equipment coming, so stay tuned!
yeah no wonder i couldnt set my idle dead on 750-800rpm it always drops like 3-400rpm no matter what when i put it into gear and used to stall out if you bump the throttle and let off quickly adjusting idle made it not stall but i cant set it correctly since it drops so much i had to set it higher than spec 1997 12valve auto awesome info
Another informative video! 👍 Sounds like I should make a trip east soon and talk about some new injectors for my black truck and maybe bring my 215 pump. I believe that would be what I've been looking for all this time.
New to you channel, enjoy watching your videos. I have a stick 98 dodge ram 5spd. Stock 180 pump, would like some direction on adding a little bit more power to make it very enjoyable to drive. Just replaced clutch with single disk 400 hp rated. If you have time to give me some insight. Again the engine is all stock. Thanks.
I have a 97 manual trans 215 hp 12 valve truck with 354,000 miles and would like to have it somewhere around 325 to 400 hp so that it will pull my toyhauler over the hills better. I have bought a K27 turbo, 3,000/ 4,000 governor springs, 60 lbs springs, heavier pushrods and headbolts, an AFC Live from Power Driven Diesel, a Fluiddamr, and a new clutch setup for up to 425 hp. Would you recommend anything that I should consider to add to it? I had the dowel pin come out years ago and so I have a new gear case to install too. I live in Sutherlin, Oregon, exit 136 I-5, so lots of hills in any direction. My truck is my daily driver and my work truck. Thank you for any advise that you might have. Mike Flick
Thanks a lot for the video very helpful where can I get the shims for the idle spring he was talking about I'm having trouble with my truck not starting properly an would like get them shims an can't find them anywhere
Hey Lenny you were blowing my mind! I'm working on a 180p pump right now. I'm outfitting it with the AFC live. I'm just curious of your opinion on that setup. I did ground the foot according to the installation instructions and now you got me worried. I would like a smoke-free truck. 7x9 injectors and 025 delivery valves timing 18 degrees.
No, we're not worried about the head gasket at all, as the truck is still on factory head bolts. In a previous video, we did some testing on the Stock Turbo, while monitoring Drive, Boost, and EGT.
Awesome explanation!! One doubt here, when u say, decreasing open nozzle pressure, volume is increased, is there any right % to do it? I meant does the fuel spray quality will also be worst and will take more time to burn it, right? For example, I have 5x.14 working at 270bar, what is the secure % can i drop the open pressure with keeping the good nozzle spray?
@@DynomiteDieselTV awesome, tks.... so, it depends the nozzles and applications, not all we can change opening pressure and will get good results as well.... have a good one.
These new 12 valve videos are my favorite things on RUclips right now. Very informative!
We're glad you're enjoying them! There will be more, so stay tuned!
Valuable source of for us 12 valve guys
You guys are awesome. Thank you for putting out such good information. There are so many shade tree buffoons and grifter jerks putting videos up about 12 valves it’s just sad. I will be purchasing lots of parts from DDP in the future. Thanks again!
Thank you for this info in this video.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m going to watch this 10 times such a wealth of knowledge
There will be more content coming, as soon as our new dyno shows up!
Enjoyed,😊 I have a 1995 dodge 2500 290,000, plenty of blow by, starts well, with toe. Cold stats a bit harder, think only 1 heat grid working. Appears to be stock. P pump appears to have been exchanged, has label from company I traced to be in Florida. Nv4500 that I baby,does not want to shift fast, all gears working ok. Changed transmission fluid with mt-85, no difference. Came with south bend clutch,so far ok. Had truck about 1 1/2 years. Collecting parts , head studs, exhaust manifold, valve springs, mainly stud for eventual fuel modifications. Needs some tlc, runs ok for now. Might give you a call.
Hell yeah. love the video, you answered a lot of questions I had and some I didn’t even realize I had till I started watching. It’s hard to find proven dyno/experienced info on these pumps that explains the cause and effect of the “go to mods”everyone seems to say to do to them, that has also been the same for 15-20 years. Glad to see someone trying new things and finessing old mods with modern knowledge and getting more enjoyable power out of them
Thanks for the feedback! If you have any other questions, please let us know, and we'll do our best to get them into a video!
I've always been a ve pump guy but I really appreciate the p pump lesson! Good stuff!!
I’d like to see him get a ve pump next and do the same walk through with one of those
I agree
I'll bring it up to Lenny, and see what he says.
Interesting. I’ve always heard the 215 pump had timing notches which retard the timing for starting. The only time the rack ever goes to this position is during cranking when the fulcrum lever is below the stop plate. The notion of timing advancement with RPM (which would require an upper helix) is totally new to me. One of us is wrong. You guys make great products and videos. Keep up the good work!
That was a very great explanation. You did a phenomenal job about clearing a lot of muddy waters that I've had in my mind in understanding ppump operation. I have often asked myself why things are the way they are and you really shed light on these things. Great insight... You are truly a wealth of knowledge and information.
Incredible video, tons of info, tons of knowledge! Thank you!
Awesome Lenny
I absolutely love the p-pump videos I can't wait to business with you guys
Great information sir 👍... In all of your videos... thanks alot... 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback! We're glad you're enjoying them!
To tune my aneroide spring I hooked up shop air to a gauge and made it move about a inch forward with 15psi which seemed to be perfect for me since boost pressure rises so fast.
Thank you for this info! Great stuff.
I have a1993 VE 12 v 2500 chassis mounted under a 1947 GMC COE flatbed, and a 1997 180 pump, 12 valve, 5 speed 4x4 2500 chassis mounted under a 1947 Dodge Power Wagon with 47 inch tires, and daily drive 1997 Dodge 3500 dully 12 v, 215 pump 5 speed. Love them all. I only wish (now) that I did not live in NorCal!,,,,, sure could use your fine tuning experience. Thank you again.
Sounds like a similar setup I’m going to be running in the next couple years.
Have my daily built 12v 2500 I’m finishing the first engine rebuild on. Running DDP stage 3 injectors with the pilot hole setup, 12mm 160 pump maxed out, and plan on 22* timing.
I have 2 other 12v motors I’ll rebuild and swap into a couple vehicles as well. Wanting to do a land cruiser with the 12v swap, setup to around 400whp so it’s simple and million mile capable, 4x4 etc.
The next swap would be soon as find a great candidate for a troll camping vehicle. Thinking of a 12v swapped 10 speed Eaton 4door Deuce M35, an F800, or international with a bed to be able to have the family in and pack all the gear into and go anywhere
Great info Lenny. I practically crossed paths with you today, I was rolling into Spokane about the time you were heading west out of there shooting this video!
That was the best break down of a 12v i have heard after listening to way to many videos. You really made me think about what i have. I have done some things to my 12v but the last owner did quite a bit i just need to figure out exactly what. I have a 96 12v auto on a 98 body lifted running 35" tires, 3:54 gears, banks twin air intake and 4" exhuast. Im not into black clouds of smoke so did back off afc. Truck runs and drives decent not very quick from the start but mid is not bad and top really opens up. So not knowing everything done bugs me so i want to go thru and check or redo the settings and things with a question mark. Ive had several 24v trucks and have thrown in more air better exhuast with a programmer and shes ripping down the road. I got bored and wanted and old school cummins 12v so here iam. Your video really has me thinking about it. Im looking for a 4-500 hp daily runner that i can take on trips and tow when needed and just enjoy driving knowing i have some power under my foot when needed. Im hoping to swap tranny to a manual trans in the future. Based on what youve said where or what do i need to do to get there? Ive heard alot of ideas but but you really got this down. Any info would be great. thanks mike
180 p pump 0 plate afc and stock gov springs
borg warner turbo ?
newer injectors ? Not sure what size
delivery valves ? Not sure if changed
pump timing ? Not sure where its set
You can get to 500hp on a 180 pump, but from our experience, it can be slightly difficult. We will be getting back in to more P-Pump content now that we have our new dyno setup. We also may, or may not, have some P-Pump test equipment coming, so stay tuned!
Appreciate this video. I have a 180 ppump 24v six speed I'm going to be changing stuff up on. Will be talking to you.
yeah no wonder i couldnt set my idle dead on 750-800rpm it always drops like 3-400rpm no matter what when i put it into gear and used to stall out if you bump the throttle and let off quickly adjusting idle made it not stall but i cant set it correctly since it drops so much i had to set it higher than spec 1997 12valve auto awesome info
I love this information I would love to work with you guys for my drag truck I want a smoke free 7.70 1/8th mile 12v
Another informative video! 👍
Sounds like I should make a trip east soon and talk about some new injectors for my black truck and maybe bring my 215 pump. I believe that would be what I've been looking for all this time.
We're ready when you are!
New to you channel, enjoy watching your videos. I have a stick 98 dodge ram 5spd. Stock 180 pump, would like some direction on adding a little bit more power to make it very enjoyable to drive. Just replaced clutch with single disk 400 hp rated. If you have time to give me some insight. Again the engine is all stock. Thanks.
We're happy that you're enjoying the channel! Feel free to give us a call, and we'd be happy to answer any questions that you may have! 208-209-3214
Good info.
I have a 97 manual trans 215 hp 12 valve truck with 354,000 miles and would like to have it somewhere around 325 to 400 hp so that it will pull my toyhauler over the hills better. I have bought a K27 turbo, 3,000/ 4,000 governor springs, 60 lbs springs, heavier pushrods and headbolts, an AFC Live from Power Driven Diesel, a Fluiddamr, and a new clutch setup for up to 425 hp. Would you recommend anything that I should consider to add to it? I had the dowel pin come out years ago and so I have a new gear case to install too. I live in Sutherlin, Oregon, exit 136 I-5, so lots of hills in any direction. My truck is my daily driver and my work truck. Thank you for any advise that you might have.
Mike Flick
With what you have listed, you should have no issues reaching your power goal.
Thanks a lot for the video very helpful where can I get the shims for the idle spring he was talking about I'm having trouble with my truck not starting properly an would like get them shims an can't find them anywhere
They can be purchased from us.
I have a HO 24 valve isb with the 17.2:1 compression ration block with my original 215 pump what timing would you recommend?
Hey Lenny you were blowing my mind! I'm working on a 180p pump right now. I'm outfitting it with the AFC live. I'm just curious of your opinion on that setup. I did ground the foot according to the installation instructions and now you got me worried. I would like a smoke-free truck. 7x9 injectors and 025 delivery valves timing 18 degrees.
We prefer our fuel plate over something that is adjustable on the fly.
You most likely ground the barrel, not the foot.
What’s the max ccs you can get out of an unbenched 215 possible?
So does all of this upgrades where the engine out faster because you’re increasing horsepower
great video, I have a p24v, you have a lot of experience with them?
We have experience with them, what were you looking to know?
Are you concerned about the headgasket with higher timing or?... Just curious... thank you.
No, we're not worried about the head gasket at all, as the truck is still on factory head bolts. In a previous video, we did some testing on the Stock Turbo, while monitoring Drive, Boost, and EGT.
Have you ever used PDD afc live the make?
Why won’t a 180 pump with 4k springs not go full fuel to 4k?
Do you have a company website?
WWW.DYNOMITEDIESEL.COM
Awesome explanation!! One doubt here, when u say, decreasing open nozzle pressure, volume is increased, is there any right % to do it? I meant does the fuel spray quality will also be worst and will take more time to burn it, right? For example, I have 5x.14 working at 270bar, what is the secure % can i drop the open pressure with keeping the good nozzle spray?
We do not recommend a nozzle opening pressure below 270bar for this application.
@@DynomiteDieselTV awesome, tks.... so, it depends the nozzles and applications, not all we can change opening pressure and will get good results as well.... have a good one.
😎🇺🇸🥩