This Old Tony makes his own scrapers and uses an interesting pull method. Tool goes over the shoulder, then pulls/guides with both hands. Scrapers use carbide which should work well. Very ergonomic! Brazes smallish carbide to his tool, then sharpens it.
Found your channel through sunppaa this week--I'm attempting to refurb a total POS 10" lathe that I shouldn't have bought in an online auction. It just so happens that I'm dealing with exactly the same issues as you have described in these last two videos. Please keep us updated and please film your progress! I'll be waiting to proceed on my machine according to what you decide to do. Great channel! I've watched every one of your vids.
At least there are some lube lines in the headstock. My 1440 is only splash. I believe your videos are going to help me tune up mine. I have an annoying 'clunk' in the low gear drive that I need to resolve.
There would need to be 2 concentric washers for that to be the case. It's certainly possible though, and the manual does not show it correctly. I have a hard time believing that the thrust bearing really works like the picture shows.
if the spindle bearings are worn its because of surface fatique, the constant rolling causes stress just under the surface of the bearing rings this in in turn causes little tears that come up to the surface which causes flaking. Brinelling is actually when you have large impacts which causes plastic deformation at the point contacts of the bearings. ps yes i know probably no one cares
Great video....my guess is that you could find a good used lathe for the cost of rebuilding this one. Remember the fork lift! Don't waste any oil on it!....Dave... I bet the spindle bearing are at least 500.00.
It's very possible. I'll pull the spindle and see what I can find. The problem with finding another used machine is that the last decent manual lathe made in this country is 30+ years old and most are pretty clapped out. There are some cherry machines out there, but they are priced accordingly.
Did you listen with a stethoscope (screwdriver)? I like to put magnets in sumps in a location where it cannot get into the gears and tails of debris cannot reach them.
I was actaully suspecting bearing issues since the first video, looks like I might know something as well, or maybe it was just luck :-D! I've also been watching the Ukrainean guy's vids for years now and he's awesome. Their methods seem rather bulky though but maybe they do the trick accurately enough! Would be awesome to see you do a full scrape job on this lathe! Do you know the bearing numbers? I might be able to source some old stock Polish bearings for you for a good price. Been using them myself and they work great!
It's really hard to diagnose a spindle bearing. They do not get hot when running. They do not have backlash. But, I still think they are bad. I'll pull them apart and see.
In my experience, sloppy slides to not contribute to surface finish problems, only accuracy. Another good test is to take a long, slender bar, and with a known good steady, live center, or preferably both, take a cut. If it's smooth, you're spindle is fucked. My Sidney has similar poor surface finish and bad bearings, but work on the tailstock end is smooth as can be.
Wonder when you rock the right shaft if you are just feeling the backlash in the gears meshing to it. When you spin the left shaft wondered if that was gear noise as well. Are the gears really to be rounded like a transmission syncranizer gear or rounded by changing gears under power an rounding some?
I really like your videos Wes. How come you didn't check the inner side of the v way on the saddle? With tool pressure isn't that where most of the wear would be on the way? Thanks I am subscribing today.
Thanks for the reply Wes. I look forward to watching you scrape the ways. I followed Harry Blooms scraping of hard ways on his Monarch !0ee a few years back on Practical Machinist and think it would be great to see someone do it on video. The inner side of my carriage v way has considerably more wear than the outer side. Thanks again for the videos.
Wes Johnson I figured using the screws to really suck the gibs to a point they won't move. Can you get a good cut if you manually feed the compound. Do you get a bad cut when you face cut with power feed.... maybe vibration is being transmitted through the leads screw to the compound.. dave
Often that bearing symptom can be because the bearing adjustment is too tight, ie too much preload. Try slackening them and then readjust till you have about a tenth/thou end float. On the bed, rather than scrape it try a diamond hone, possibly held in a jig to keep the angles right
I've seen the cogging happen when the bearing gets a sharp impact like in a crash and the rollers actually get a flat spot or they dent the race. It should not happen just from being too tight.
This Old Tony makes his own scrapers and uses an interesting pull method. Tool goes over the shoulder, then pulls/guides with both hands. Scrapers use carbide which should work well. Very ergonomic! Brazes smallish carbide to his tool, then sharpens it.
Found your channel through sunppaa this week--I'm attempting to refurb a total POS 10" lathe that I shouldn't have bought in an online auction. It just so happens that I'm dealing with exactly the same issues as you have described in these last two videos. Please keep us updated and please film your progress! I'll be waiting to proceed on my machine according to what you decide to do. Great channel! I've watched every one of your vids.
I will get to the bottom of the issues, but the jury is still on on whether I will fix them all. I'm only willing to carry this machine so far...
Nice video Wes, keep up the good work. Shop around , you may find good bearings cheaper than others think, I have in the past..
Ebay has saved the day for me many times!
Wes Johnson. That's where I always start, like the new channel art.
Man I love these old videos had to really dig into your Channel so hopefully I can get you some more views with the algorithmic comment
At least there are some lube lines in the headstock. My 1440 is only splash.
I believe your videos are going to help me tune up mine.
I have an annoying 'clunk' in the low gear drive that I need to resolve.
Looks like the center washer between the thrust bearings is precision ground to set the preload.
There would need to be 2 concentric washers for that to be the case. It's certainly possible though, and the manual does not show it correctly. I have a hard time believing that the thrust bearing really works like the picture shows.
if the spindle bearings are worn its because of surface fatique, the constant rolling causes stress just under the surface of the bearing rings this in in turn causes little tears that come up to the surface which causes flaking. Brinelling is actually when you have large impacts which causes plastic deformation at the point contacts of the bearings.
ps yes i know probably no one cares
Great video....my guess is that you could find a good used lathe for the cost of rebuilding this one. Remember the fork lift! Don't waste any oil on it!....Dave... I bet the spindle bearing are at least 500.00.
It's very possible. I'll pull the spindle and see what I can find. The problem with finding another used machine is that the last decent manual lathe made in this country is 30+ years old and most are pretty clapped out. There are some cherry machines out there, but they are priced accordingly.
Did you listen with a stethoscope (screwdriver)? I like to put magnets in sumps in a location where it cannot get into the gears and tails of debris cannot reach them.
I was actaully suspecting bearing issues since the first video, looks like I might know something as well, or maybe it was just luck :-D! I've also been watching the Ukrainean guy's vids for years now and he's awesome. Their methods seem rather bulky though but maybe they do the trick accurately enough! Would be awesome to see you do a full scrape job on this lathe!
Do you know the bearing numbers? I might be able to source some old stock Polish bearings for you for a good price. Been using them myself and they work great!
sunppaa Could you share the "Ukrainian guy" YT channel name or link? Thanks!
ruclips.net/channel/UCaAfpmwDVacTm8aXdJx8_yQ
I can't understand a word he says, but the work speaks for itself.
It's really hard to diagnose a spindle bearing. They do not get hot when running. They do not have backlash. But, I still think they are bad. I'll pull them apart and see.
Are you still a machine shop or have you changed over to auto shop only?
In my experience, sloppy slides to not contribute to surface finish problems, only accuracy. Another good test is to take a long, slender bar, and with a known good steady, live center, or preferably both, take a cut. If it's smooth, you're spindle is fucked. My Sidney has similar poor surface finish and bad bearings, but work on the tailstock end is smooth as can be.
Wonder when you rock the right shaft if you are just feeling the backlash in the gears meshing to it. When you spin the left shaft wondered if that was gear noise as well. Are the gears really to be rounded like a transmission syncranizer gear or rounded by changing gears under power an rounding some?
Watch the follow up videos where I rebuild the headstock All will be revealed!
I really like your videos Wes. How come you didn't check the inner side of the v way on the saddle? With tool pressure isn't that where most of the wear would be on the way? Thanks I am subscribing today.
I'm sure it is worn also. I could check it the same way, I just didn't. We will check it when we attempt to fix it.
Thanks for the reply Wes. I look forward to watching you scrape the ways. I followed Harry Blooms scraping of hard ways on his Monarch !0ee a few years back on Practical Machinist and think it would be great to see someone do it on video. The inner side of my carriage v way has considerably more wear than the outer side. Thanks again for the videos.
Great content always.
Have you tied locking down the gibs on the compound and cross compound and take a test cut to isolate the poor cutting.? Bave
That's the point of the bar clamps.
Wes Johnson I figured using the screws to really suck the gibs to a point they won't move. Can you get a good cut if you manually feed the compound. Do you get a bad cut when you face cut with power feed.... maybe vibration is being transmitted through the leads screw to the compound.. dave
There may be a screw that locks the slides you are not using.
Trying to contact you about bearing removal, was Gmail account best?
Often that bearing symptom can be because the bearing adjustment is too tight, ie too much preload. Try slackening them and then readjust till you have about a tenth/thou end float.
On the bed, rather than scrape it try a diamond hone, possibly held in a jig to keep the angles right
No.
I've seen the cogging happen when the bearing gets a sharp impact like in a crash and the rollers actually get a flat spot or they dent the race. It should not happen just from being too tight.
You might well be right but I have seen it happen, on another application, if you are changing them anyway there is no harm in trying the adjustment.
If you can feel ANY what you describe as "cogging" the bearings are shot. Hopefully you can find some at a decent price.
Not if they are Gamet bearings in a Colchester Bantam. :>(
Who is the Ukrainian you speak of? Your videos are great!
Check the other comments. I posted a link somewhere.
Thumbs up 👍
Awesome
Who's the ukrainian channel?
Would you please email your contact info, , really enjoy your videos, you remind me of me except you are really smart