Ep2: DIY CNC Mist Testing Experiments !
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Will it self-syphon? Do I need tank pressure? Will it reduce the misting? Sometimes the best way to learn is to have a go and try things out. So that's exactly what we are going to do!
As always, comments are always welcome, especially from experienced mist coolant users!
A 3-way solenoid valve will open the line to atmosphere when it turns off. Venting all the pressure out of the system.
OK, I wondered if a cheap version of something like that existed. I'll have a look around as it would be much better, thanks.
Very very good my friend
By the way I can see your next series
"The ATC " ( automatic tool changer)
Since your spindle has issues 🙂
Well, maybe, but I think I need to sort out that noisy spindle first !
Syphening should not happend in that scale
Dont forget that you ADD air to push that fluid out, but when you close that air, there wont be added any air either into the container, so essential it will get vacuum, so if you add a one way valve onto the outlet for the fluid that opens on pressure out, problem will be solved.
I have that same thing on my flood coolant, added a one way valve onto the coolant and now it does not empty the line and run back onto the tank again, instead it starts up within a second (it just needs to build some pressure to open the valve)
@@xillianto There is a check valve in the 4mm pickup line already, which I guess is for anti back-syphon as that is required on drinking water systems in the UK. Is that doing the same job as your one way valve?
@@routercnc9517 i guess it would, but those does not last long normally
OK thanks I’ll see what I can find
Hello, Just curious if you still use this cooling system? I'm debating the Stupid Simple Tools solution or something like this. Thank you.
It’s a bit mixed really. It’s much better than nothing and gives more reliable cuts in aluminium (without jamming up the tool) but is very inconsistent. It needs constant fiddling with the valve to get just enough coolant to work but not too much to create a fog. If starting again I would use a peristaltic pump to deliver metered coolant into the airflow under user control.
@@routercnc9517 Thank you. I'll look into that pump and see how that would work. I found two of these for 9.00 on amazon today ha, ha. I'm going to try them out and see how they work. Thanks for the reply.
There are different types of solenoid valves. You need a valve which will dump back pressure after de-energizing it. This will solve your challenge in stopping the flow after the use of the machine.
I was wondering if such a thing existed, certainly in the simple and cheap types I am using. I have seen the more complex units which are much larger with several ports which connect in all sorts of different ways but the ones I looked at were quite expensive. I'll have a look again and see what is available as this would be a better option, thanks for the comment.
@@routercnc9517 try searching 3-way solenoid
Will do thank you!
Thanks for the video. I tried this way back and gave up on it but your video inspired me to try again. So one question...
The tube that is on the exit of the water canister. How is it put in. I used a piece of pvc from the top cap into the bottle but it looks like you did something different. Can you describe
I used a step down fitting from the thread in the side of the housing, into another step down fitting to allow a 4mm push fit tube. Can’t remember the exact sizes but it needed 2 fittings to drop down.
How are you connecting the tube that goes in the water to the 4mm hose? I bought a filter and there is no hose to force the water up...
Sorry for the delay. I honestly can't remember so when I'm back in the workshop (maybe Friday/Saturday this week) I'll remove the filter container and remind myself, then post back here. I vaguely remember drilling out one of the holes, but let me check.
Very roughly, one psi of pressure will raise water two feet, so it doesn't take much to push it out that container.
Ok thanks
Is not your water block height set as you have screwed it to bracket mister tube should have no effect on siphon.
I have never seen one of them nozzles used with pressure on the cutting fluid tank and is your brass nozzle adjustable. All the one's I have seen used you adjust the nozzle to give you more fluid or less when using it.
Ok thanks. I’m don’t think the nozzle is adjustable but will have a look. In terms of pressurising the tank I’m not sure it helped with the misting. I think I will keep the regulator on the tank anyway and see how I get on when using it for real on WD40. Gives me options and nothing lost, plus easy to disconnect inlet pipe to tank if needed. Thanks
You could fil the tank with open cell foam/filter material from a aquarium filter.
This could help with water sloshing around and messing with the steppers.
This is the same principle as in large fuel tanks on ships and trucks where they comparmentalize.
Yes good idea if that becomes a problem.
with the right combination of adapter fittings you might just be able to fit a T-fitting into spot where the air-bleed screw is on that water filter. Then install a pressure safety-valve onto one end of the t-fitting and a solenoid valve on the other end. That way you have the over pressure protection and you can automatically bleed the pressure in the water filter if you use a relay for the 2 solenoid valves. Connect the air-bleed solenoid valve to the nc terminal and the solenoid for the water feed to the no terminal of the relay. That way, while the system is in "stand-by mode" the air-bleed solenoid valve is open and the water-feed solenoid valve is closed and once the system goes active the air-bleed solenoid closes and the water-feed solenoid opens.
just in case you can't find a cheap 3-way solenoid to do the job.
@@rick5078 That would work, especially the pressure relief part, but I've found when I switch it off the tank pressure quickly drains aways because the locline end is open. Thanks
Great video! been looking for some detailed explanation of how this mist systems works. Bought a similar mist nozzle from amazon but unfortunately my current shop setup only contains 4mm pipes, would it still work? Or do I need 6 or 8mm pipe for the air line that connects to the nozzle? Appreciate your response
I might still work but you would need to open the mixer valve for the air a lot more to get the air through.
@@routercnc9517 I modified the airline to 8mm and positioned the coolant reservoir slightly higher than the spray unit, seems to be the only way the mister would spray lubricant. My problem now is that after cutting the air supply the brass nozzle keeps dripping coolant because of syphone, finally draining coolant reservoir. Any recomendations on how to fix this? 🙏🏻
I found mine also siphoned after a few days so my solution was to point the loc- line up and lift the nozzle as high as power after using it for the day.
Great work and a cleanly shop!
Thank you!
Can I suggest a small aquarium pump since you need small amount of coolant and mounting the hall system on the wall?
I wonder if an aquarium pump would put out too much coolant? It seems like I only need a small amount. In terms of mounting it all to the wall - that could work but I really want to be able to reach the pressure controls from where I am standing at the keyboard and that is not so easy if I put in on the wall. I'm looking into a design where I mount some of it to the side of the bed under the X drag chain and think that could work quite well. Still developing the idea so we will see.
@@routercnc9517 I'm sorry for the stupid suggest.
You are the master but I wonder how you can collect all the mist after it being used?
You need to get rid of it or recycle it
It will get absorbed into the chips and thrown away. I’m only using very minimal amounts so it should last along time.