Good info as usual. Keep up the work. I am using my avid on first big project cutting kitchen cab box sides. All mounting holes for confirmats and domino slots for alignment etc. makes assemble a breeze, love it but look forward to more creative stuff like your doing.
thanks for the shopping list. Just ordered all. I have been manually adding lubricant and rigged up an air blaster with zip ties for a couple years now. Look forward to trying this instead.
Hey Jim! I've got the same setup on a similar CNC router. Works pretty well, except I'm using Trim Mist. I'm also cutting copper. I was a bit worried about the vac sucking up IPA fumes... IPA is nice because it doesn't leave a mess, though, like the Trim Mist can. Surface gets sticky.
Copper will dull your bits in a heartbeat if you don't have coolant. I'm cutting tempered CU110 so it isn't gummy. But yeah, non tempered is a bit gummy. It also warps like crazy. I'm using a vacuum chuck with it. I can send you some details if you still are using your work address.
@@PNWPrototyping Ha, I didn't look closely at the name the first time :-). If you have any info you can send to jnwdwks@gmail.com. Would love to see what you are making :-) jim
I did discuss that in the video. I have a 1200cfm dust collector removing the fumes so the fuel/air ratio is extremely low. You can't even smell it coming out of the dust collector outside. I certainly wouldn't do this w/o the fume extraction, or it would be a fire hazard.
Hi Jim. I came across your video while doing research for my setup where I will be primarily working with sheet metal (aluminum). I saw you are using a dust collector setup. I'm working with limited space and wanted your thoughts if using a dust collector is the only method or if using a shop-vac or dust extractor such as one from Fein or Festool would be alright as well when used with the Fog Buster. Thanks!
I can't say for sure, but two things to be cautious about there. One that I mentioned in the video is that if you have a very high airflow and are blowing it outside (my DC ports through my wall) then the IPA fume concentration is so low it can't start on fire. I don't know what the airflow of a shop vac is compared to a 1200 CFM DC. Second is that a shop VAC usually has a universal type motor with brushes, which means you have a constant arc going that could ignite fumes easily IF you were ever to get the concentraction to high that it would be combustible. I would do some experiments (outdoors of course) first with it pulling the fumes off the mist to see if under any condition you can get ignition. IPA isn't nearly as flammable as many things in the shop, but I just don't have enough experience to tell you for sure. One thing that clinched it for me was that when my system is runnning, I would smell the output of the DC port to see how strong the IPA odor was and it was barely detectible, so it gave me confidence that it would not be an issue.
I have a 30 gal compressor for my shop and run a 3/8" line to my CNC. At the CNC have a filter/dryer (even in dry Arizona this is needed), then a regulator where I dial down the pressure to about 25psi. Then the line goes to a 24V solenoid valve that is controlled by one of the Auxilary relays (the one with the AC plugs on the bottom of the control box) so I can turn the air on/off in my Gcode or from the Mach4 GUI. Note that I had to replace the AC relay with a solid State DC relays because AVID ships the box with AC only relays. Then I run the line through the Echain to the Z stage into a manifold where I split the air to my coolant mister, a plain air nozzle for spindle work, and my laser air assist nozzle. All 3 of these have their own valve by them so I can fine tune the air flow based on what I'm doing.
Check out this video I made a few weeks ago, and if you have any more questions, shoot me an email at jnwdwks@gmail.com. ruclips.net/video/81QLHVE_UUs/видео.html
Can you give more detail on the connection of IPA hose to the canister? Not understanding on how you are connection the hose inside of the canister to the blue hose outside of the canister.
Hi Richard. I posted some pics here for you: drive.google.com/drive/folders/14fYoypFSze4ZWhnQ6se2I-SCY3fHFxrA?usp=share_link The canister is just 1/2" NPT on the input and output side. I just used a PVC plug on the output side with the hose and drilled a hole in the plug just big enough for the hose. The hose is fed through the lid and down into the center. The Input side just has a plug with a barb fitting that I drilled out to receive the checkvalve so it can draw air in.
@@RichardNewman-mt3kr correct, just a PVC plug. I didn't seal it because it was pretty tight already. It doesn't have to be airtight, I was mainly just trying to minimize evaporation. In reality, I don't leave it filled when I'm not using it ( because I don't cut metal often) anyway.
@@JNWoodworks I hope this is my last question. Can you tell me how you attached the check valve to the canister. Thanks for answering all my questions. I know you have better things to do.
@@RichardNewman-mt3kr hey Richard, no problem with the questions. That check valve has a barb fitting for hoses on both ends. So you just need to make an adapter that the fitting can slide into and glue in. I happen to find a fitting at Lowe's or somewhere with a 1/2-in NPT thread on one side and a large barb fitting on the other and I simply drilled out the barb fitting and slid the check valve in with a little glue. You could also probably just get a 1/2 inch NPT plug like you used on the other side and drill it out and slide the check valve in with a little glue as well. It's not too critical. Make sure you get the check valve in the right orientation so the air will draw into the canister on that side.
The Diamond Drag Engraver looks pretty precise and good to add texture ! , must be a long process , i am trying to find a tool to make really detailed wood stamps in brass , could we have more than one pass and get to some depth ? or it would take 8 hours to have 1/16" depth or it just can't go further than 1/32" ?
Its actually not too bad for speed. But you are right, diamond engravers are for lines and texture, not removing material for recessing anything. If you want to recess back, think you would want to use the spindle. A Vbit to carve the edges, and a flat endmill to remove the background areas would work. Brass cuts pretty well if you have the right bit, and a mist cooling system.
@@JNWoodworks yes i know the clearing , v-bit and all , i been working the CAM with a V-bit super pointy one in Fusion360 and it was very hard to have some depth in the detailed areas in text burning wood stamp, not reaching in some areas between small letters or only giving 0.005 depth who will probably make a burn in between the letters... i got a laser but only 5W wont dig into brass..
Ya, I have tried the tape and ca glue. I like carpet tape a lot better. Seems to hold better, and it's a lot faster to setup. You have to get the right kind though, some are very hard to remove all the goo.
@@jamescullins2709 Ya, lots of people like it the CA method better. I guess whatever works well for each person is the way to go. I just threw a roll of carpet tape away that was a different brand because it was super gooey, so I can certainly understand if someone started with some tape like that why they would just give up on it. Now I have to remember which store I bought the stuff I liked so I can get more. I think it was Lowes carpet tape.
@@JNWoodworks I agree we all have our way of doing things. that is what makes the world go around. I don't have nearly the experience that you have so I like trying new things. what is the brand of tape that you like
@@jamescullins2709 I got it at Lowe's, but I don't remember the brand name. The stuff I got at Home Depot I just threw in the garbage because it was so gooey. I have to get some more, so if I can find it again I'll let you know.
Is there a specific reason why you own an Avid Cnc? I am considering adding it to my wood shop, and how would you rate it? Great content thanks for posting, Mark, Vancouver,Canada.
Hi Mark, Good question, I actually plan to do a video on why I chose AVID, and if I'm still happy with it after 2 years. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. I looked around at a lot of different machines (especially Powermatic because the rest of my shop is Powermatic). I was considering building my own, but didn't want to spend the time doing that, so this was a good compromise. AVID's stuff is pretty much all open source. The pick some great quality components that are well supported and documented by the vendors, then the mechanical configuration is highly customizable. There is a really good AVID CNC facebook group where you can see how many different ways people have configured their machines. Everything from 2'x3' up to 6' x 20' I have seen. They have several spindle sizes, and a plasma head, and you can easily add a laser head like I did. The price is very good, but you do have to do a lot of putting parts together (it comes in like 15 boxes), but that was an attraction for me too because I like to put my tools together myself. On top of that, their customer service is great. They have knowledgeable staff, and they very much support you making modifications to your tool - that's kinda their thing. So if you want something that comes fully assembled and ready to go, this is probably not your machine, but if you want something that is super flexible (and they will sell you any parts to upgrade in size later) and you don't mind assembling it, this one is something to consider. I have had no second thoughts after 2 years, and am still making new modifications and additions to the tool because it is so easy to do. My only regret is not having room in my garage for a bigger one. As I said too, the components are high quality. There are people running these things all day, 5 days a week in production mode.
Hi, thanks for the reply, I feel the same way about the assembly and customization it really makes you get to know the machine you own and work with, I recently had a conference call with Avid sales and we spent close to an hour going over everything, great support, looking forward to your review video.
@@markfromwestcoastwoodcraft7633 I recommend checking out the AVID group on FB. You can peruse through it and get some good ideas on different configurations before you buy everything.
This is exactly what I'm planning to do. Thanks!
Good info as usual. Keep up the work. I am using my avid on first big project cutting kitchen cab box sides. All mounting holes for confirmats and domino slots for alignment etc. makes assemble a breeze, love it but look forward to more creative stuff like your doing.
thanks for the shopping list. Just ordered all. I have been manually adding lubricant and rigged up an air blaster with zip ties for a couple years now. Look forward to trying this instead.
I can understand using Pale Ale for lubrication, but it should be taken internally.
Hey Jim! I've got the same setup on a similar CNC router. Works pretty well, except I'm using Trim Mist. I'm also cutting copper. I was a bit worried about the vac sucking up IPA fumes... IPA is nice because it doesn't leave a mess, though, like the Trim Mist can. Surface gets sticky.
Good to know copper cuts well. I think that is a bit gummy like aluminum without a coolant, right?
Copper will dull your bits in a heartbeat if you don't have coolant. I'm cutting tempered CU110 so it isn't gummy. But yeah, non tempered is a bit gummy. It also warps like crazy. I'm using a vacuum chuck with it. I can send you some details if you still are using your work address.
@@PNWPrototyping Ha, I didn't look closely at the name the first time :-). If you have any info you can send to jnwdwks@gmail.com. Would love to see what you are making :-)
jim
Dude! IPA is insanely flammable, a spark from inside the motor or an accidental bit crash could turn ur entire shop into a fire ball
I did discuss that in the video. I have a 1200cfm dust collector removing the fumes so the fuel/air ratio is extremely low. You can't even smell it coming out of the dust collector outside. I certainly wouldn't do this w/o the fume extraction, or it would be a fire hazard.
Hi Jim. I came across your video while doing research for my setup where I will be primarily working with sheet metal (aluminum). I saw you are using a dust collector setup. I'm working with limited space and wanted your thoughts if using a dust collector is the only method or if using a shop-vac or dust extractor such as one from Fein or Festool would be alright as well when used with the Fog Buster. Thanks!
I can't say for sure, but two things to be cautious about there. One that I mentioned in the video is that if you have a very high airflow and are blowing it outside (my DC ports through my wall) then the IPA fume concentration is so low it can't start on fire. I don't know what the airflow of a shop vac is compared to a 1200 CFM DC. Second is that a shop VAC usually has a universal type motor with brushes, which means you have a constant arc going that could ignite fumes easily IF you were ever to get the concentraction to high that it would be combustible. I would do some experiments (outdoors of course) first with it pulling the fumes off the mist to see if under any condition you can get ignition. IPA isn't nearly as flammable as many things in the shop, but I just don't have enough experience to tell you for sure. One thing that clinched it for me was that when my system is runnning, I would smell the output of the DC port to see how strong the IPA odor was and it was barely detectible, so it gave me confidence that it would not be an issue.
Can you go into more detail on your compressed air set up?
Btw - I really enjoy your videos!
I have a 30 gal compressor for my shop and run a 3/8" line to my CNC. At the CNC have a filter/dryer (even in dry Arizona this is needed), then a regulator where I dial down the pressure to about 25psi. Then the line goes to a 24V solenoid valve that is controlled by one of the Auxilary relays (the one with the AC plugs on the bottom of the control box) so I can turn the air on/off in my Gcode or from the Mach4 GUI. Note that I had to replace the AC relay with a solid State DC relays because AVID ships the box with AC only relays. Then I run the line through the Echain to the Z stage into a manifold where I split the air to my coolant mister, a plain air nozzle for spindle work, and my laser air assist nozzle. All 3 of these have their own valve by them so I can fine tune the air flow based on what I'm doing.
fascinating video...very informative...can you go over the engraving process in more depth please..?
Check out this video I made a few weeks ago, and if you have any more questions, shoot me an email at jnwdwks@gmail.com. ruclips.net/video/81QLHVE_UUs/видео.html
Can you give more detail on the connection of IPA hose to the canister? Not understanding on how you are connection the hose inside of the canister to the blue hose outside of the canister.
Hi Richard. I posted some pics here for you: drive.google.com/drive/folders/14fYoypFSze4ZWhnQ6se2I-SCY3fHFxrA?usp=share_link
The canister is just 1/2" NPT on the input and output side. I just used a PVC plug on the output side with the hose and drilled a hole in the plug just big enough for the hose. The hose is fed through the lid and down into the center. The Input side just has a plug with a barb fitting that I drilled out to receive the checkvalve so it can draw air in.
Is that a plug that you drilled a hole in to pass the tubbing through? Did you use any silicone around the tubing?
@@RichardNewman-mt3kr correct, just a PVC plug. I didn't seal it because it was pretty tight already. It doesn't have to be airtight, I was mainly just trying to minimize evaporation. In reality, I don't leave it filled when I'm not using it ( because I don't cut metal often) anyway.
@@JNWoodworks I hope this is my last question. Can you tell me how you attached the check valve to the canister. Thanks for answering all my questions. I know you have better things to do.
@@RichardNewman-mt3kr hey Richard, no problem with the questions. That check valve has a barb fitting for hoses on both ends. So you just need to make an adapter that the fitting can slide into and glue in. I happen to find a fitting at Lowe's or somewhere with a 1/2-in NPT thread on one side and a large barb fitting on the other and I simply drilled out the barb fitting and slid the check valve in with a little glue. You could also probably just get a 1/2 inch NPT plug like you used on the other side and drill it out and slide the check valve in with a little glue as well. It's not too critical. Make sure you get the check valve in the right orientation so the air will draw into the canister on that side.
Hi, what size tube is used for the liquid feed from canister to the spray unit?
Thanks
Hi Dominic. I'm away from my system for the next 10 days or so, but I think the tube is around 4mm.
The Diamond Drag Engraver looks pretty precise and good to add texture ! , must be a long process , i am trying to find a tool to make really detailed wood stamps in brass , could we have more than one pass and get to some depth ? or it would take 8 hours to have 1/16" depth or it just can't go further than 1/32" ?
Its actually not too bad for speed. But you are right, diamond engravers are for lines and texture, not removing material for recessing anything. If you want to recess back, think you would want to use the spindle. A Vbit to carve the edges, and a flat endmill to remove the background areas would work. Brass cuts pretty well if you have the right bit, and a mist cooling system.
@@JNWoodworks yes i know the clearing , v-bit and all , i been working the CAM with a V-bit super pointy one in Fusion360 and it was very hard to have some depth in the detailed areas in text burning wood stamp, not reaching in some areas between small letters or only giving 0.005 depth who will probably make a burn in between the letters... i got a laser but only 5W wont dig into brass..
Have you tried CA glue and blue painter's tape to hold the brass down? Looks good I do like the coolant device as well.
Ya, I have tried the tape and ca glue. I like carpet tape a lot better. Seems to hold better, and it's a lot faster to setup. You have to get the right kind though, some are very hard to remove all the goo.
@@JNWoodworks the goo is a bad thing. I like the ca.
@@jamescullins2709 Ya, lots of people like it the CA method better. I guess whatever works well for each person is the way to go. I just threw a roll of carpet tape away that was a different brand because it was super gooey, so I can certainly understand if someone started with some tape like that why they would just give up on it. Now I have to remember which store I bought the stuff I liked so I can get more. I think it was Lowes carpet tape.
@@JNWoodworks I agree we all have our way of doing things. that is what makes the world go around. I don't have nearly the experience that you have so I like trying new things. what is the brand of tape that you like
@@jamescullins2709 I got it at Lowe's, but I don't remember the brand name. The stuff I got at Home Depot I just threw in the garbage because it was so gooey. I have to get some more, so if I can find it again I'll let you know.
what a great idea, I use wd40 when cutting AL but IP makes more sense.
It is a good idea, but I can't take credit. I saw Robert Cowen's video for the IPA idea, I just didn't want to spend $400 for the mister :-).
You had me at IPA. 😋
Ha, I didn't think of that. I better keep my bottles separated in storage :-)
Is there a specific reason why you own an Avid Cnc? I am considering adding it to my wood shop, and how would you rate it?
Great content thanks for posting, Mark, Vancouver,Canada.
Hi Mark,
Good question, I actually plan to do a video on why I chose AVID, and if I'm still happy with it after 2 years. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
I looked around at a lot of different machines (especially Powermatic because the rest of my shop is Powermatic). I was considering building my own, but didn't want to spend the time doing that, so this was a good compromise. AVID's stuff is pretty much all open source. The pick some great quality components that are well supported and documented by the vendors, then the mechanical configuration is highly customizable. There is a really good AVID CNC facebook group where you can see how many different ways people have configured their machines. Everything from 2'x3' up to 6' x 20' I have seen. They have several spindle sizes, and a plasma head, and you can easily add a laser head like I did. The price is very good, but you do have to do a lot of putting parts together (it comes in like 15 boxes), but that was an attraction for me too because I like to put my tools together myself. On top of that, their customer service is great. They have knowledgeable staff, and they very much support you making modifications to your tool - that's kinda their thing. So if you want something that comes fully assembled and ready to go, this is probably not your machine, but if you want something that is super flexible (and they will sell you any parts to upgrade in size later) and you don't mind assembling it, this one is something to consider. I have had no second thoughts after 2 years, and am still making new modifications and additions to the tool because it is so easy to do. My only regret is not having room in my garage for a bigger one.
As I said too, the components are high quality. There are people running these things all day, 5 days a week in production mode.
Hi, thanks for the reply, I feel the same way about the assembly and customization it really makes you get to know the machine you own and work with, I recently had a conference call with Avid sales and we spent close to an hour going over everything, great support, looking forward to your review video.
@@markfromwestcoastwoodcraft7633 I recommend checking out the AVID group on FB. You can peruse through it and get some good ideas on different configurations before you buy everything.