Hitachi G12SA Angle Grinder, Gear Lube
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- A few more maintenance tasks on the old Hitachi angle grinder.
This grinder's switch has become very touchy in recent years. It'll pop off at the slightest vibration while grinding. So I added a bit of neoprene foam rubber under the back side of the switch to hold the front tab down in the slot better. The foam helps dampen out any vibration and keeps the switch from popping loose in use. It still releases with a light tap on the back side of the switch.
I also cleaned out the built up grinding debris stuck to the inside of the guard. There must have been a good 1/4" of hard deposits inside there. This grinder has seen a lot of use. I've built well over 200 pair of rock sliders/side bars which required extensive grinding to finish off the welded ends.
At the suggestion of a commenter on the earlier electrical repair video, I took a look inside the gear box. Sure enough, the old grease had dried out and the gears were in need of some fresh lube. I cleaned out the dried grease in my parts washer.
I decided to give some Skil worm drive gear oil a try since I've had a tube on hand for many years. This is more of a helical cut ring and pinion gear arrangement instead of a worm gear, but it's a similar type of tooth engagement.
I'll see how this works and if it turns out to not work well, it'll be easy to pour the oil out and refill with grease. So far, no signs of leaks and it seems to be running much smoother and quieter than before.
I'll open up the gear box in a few months to see how it looks after more use. If anyone has had any experience running gear oil in an angle grinder, post up in the comment section below. Maybe this is a stupid idea, but this is one way to find out.
Update: No lube leaked into the motor although there was a slight leak out from the main drive bushing, likely because it was a bit over filled. After a few drips leaked out there, no further leaking was observed. Unfortunately, after about 6 months, the switch finally stopped turning on at all. Since it's a very complicated mechanism, it's not easily repaired. Finally replaced the grinder with a nice Dewalt unit that's much easier to use. The switch is on the bottom and it's activated by grabbing the body of the grinder. This is much better than the top mounted switch on this grinder.
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And as always, thanks for watching
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I use engine oil mixed with grease NLGI 2. Result is semi fluid grease. I put half gearbox housing.
Sound very smooth.
Sounds like a good combination.
@@The4Crawler haha.. yes. My circular saw and makita 1630 drill gearbox also use this recipe.
Don't waste your money for buy grease. Grease not effective for high speed gearbox, because centrifugal moment will throw grease from gear, and gear will dry.
Fluid lubrication more better than grease in high speed gearbox.
I washed my grinder out and filled it with 80w90 hypoid oil, made a gasket so it wont leak and it works beautifly to this day, surprisingly the gearbox works quietly. Edit: forgot to mention that i added some graphite powder cause it does wonders.
Thanks for sharing.
Graphite powder is a dry lubricant ? l like the gear oil idea , the lathe gearbox runs quietly under similar loads . Thanks
@@johncoscia5258 yeah even when your oil gets flung off at high rpms, the carbon film remains, its very strong and absorbs damage.
@@watermelonwatermelon6513 Splashing method of lubrication without a pump and filter so debris is separated by gravity floating to the bottom . Yes indeed that's good thinking and might buy you some time if you're empty as well. Cheers
Thanks for fixing it most people would have put it in the land fill and bought a new one.
old time engineer well, if companies didn’t cheap out and cut so many corners with their Chinese garbage the public wouldn’t just toss it. I take care of my tools the best I can, but grinders have a short life span. I’m a welder and the average grinder will take a poop after about 6 months to a couple years. I don’t drop them, I grease them up, replace the brush still takes a dump. I admire the Older generations tools made to last forever almost. Cheers man.
XD, I made my own tool gears lubricant by mixing a medium density grease for car homocinetic joints and an oil for engines chains and it works just great, it's not hard for the tool or anything and it sticks to the gears even at high speed.
Sounds like that should work as well.
That trigger is called a dead mans trigger, its designed to turn off if you drop the grinder, or it jumps out of your hand, it wont run around on the floor in a noisy shop and cut every one's Achilles tendons and knee caps. Or you turn it on and realize its not plugged in, so you plug it in (while its still in the on position because nobody ever remembers to turn it back off) and it runs around on the table chopping your work mates finger off as they try to rodeo a loose grinder.
Yes, good point. The switch on mine seems to have worn out to the point it won't stay on unless you hold it on. And due to the position atop the grinder, that's is very uncomfortable to do for more than a short period of time. And then it started not turning on at all, so it's time to retire this old grinder.
I picked up a new Dewalt grinder and it has the trigger switch on the bottom. The new grinder has much better ergonomics as you can hold the switch closed while holding the grinder in a normal position. And it has no locking mechanism like the old Hitachi that is prone to wearing out like mine did.
@@The4Crawler My Hitachi grinders have the switches on the side where you can hold them. I have two Dewalt grinders, one has that paddle switch. Both burned up. I think its just the cord on one though. I have deleted the switch and rigged up a toggle switch on some stuff before. Just gotta be careful. I have developed a habit of turning off grinders a couple times before plugging them in.
Yes, a side switch position wouldn't be as bad. With mine, the switch is on top and must be pushed forward with the thumb. Couple that with the larger diameter body of the grinder and trying to hold that with just 4 fingers wrapped around one side is hard to do, while maintaining forward pressure with the thumb. I guess these switches are hard to do with trying to satisfy the safety nannys and all.
No gloves, well done. No gloves for land fill and grotty hands can be washed.
I would have to agree with the previous commentor having stuffed the gearbox full of moly grease hoping to not allow room for it to 'fling'. I was quickly apparent that the bearings are nowhere near liquid proof. The grease squeezed out on start up and flung itself (into an empty bucket I had for the purpose). I expect to see a bit more as the temps go up with normal use but it is still better than dry gears. Amazing what poor design trained engineers can come up with! I would have expected it to be designed for an oil bath just like the old 'Worm drive" Skil saw from the fifties and right up to date. Their lube works quite well in them. I know I have a mess until it reaches equilibrium when that grease mixes with metal grinding dust but it seems the best one can do. Take care. Doug
i have problem with the gear not fit together after putting grease.... may i know what be the problem.
Hard to say, but maybe some old, dried up grease or other debris is preventing the gears from meshing fully.
I think that grinder was on its way out. Sounded weak. Nice demo, many thanks! I'd like to use a more solid grease - any suggestions? I've never done this. My Bosch 5" Angle Grinder shaft lock button is very stiff. I will take it apart and try to fix it and grease it up too.
Yes, that grinder was pretty well worn out and old enough that no replacement parts were available any more. About a year after I made the video, the on/off switch quit working all together.
Lots of options for grease:
www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=420624
I picked up some NLGI#00 grease, CV joint grease also seems like a good option.
Is graphite grease good for gears ? Thx.
I suppose it would work, as long as it's not too thick:
qtcgears.com/tools/info/geartechnology/sec20_lubricationofgears.php
Now I really feel silly !
Moly grease, or a high temp high tack red grease might work too, less chance of leaking too if the gaskets+bearing-seals bad, clean the coummutator, and throw in some new brushes too, I use lucas oil CLP lube, on a lot of things myself if it needs to be sprayed regularly
Good tips. Did replace the brushes on the grinder in an earlier video.
@@The4Crawler Neat :) hows the thing been running
@@nekotherion7317 I think it ran for another year before the switch failed completely. Didn't have any issues with leaking.
Try using cv joint grease. Apply a lot to the gear case and to the ring gear before you close up the gear head
Thanks for the information. Good to hear other options for lubricating these things.
But they are all too thick for test purpose. Also not meant for high rpms. Its have to be thin enough to lick when you turn grinder on side. On this video is lil bit too thin, but R Brown, but different grease later,
R Borwn: I was just wondering how much and how often you used this Hitachi grinder since you put the liquidish (or jelloish) lubricant in it AND if you checked whether any of the lubricant found the way to the motor housing. I just watched this other video where the guy put regular automotive grease mixed with 80W-90 transmission oil in his Makita polisher (which runs a lot slower than a grinder!) from the same concern: when you open up a grinder to check how much the gears are lubricated, most of the time you find the grease spread out on the housing wall and the gears are bone dry:
Look for this title on RUclips:
How to: Makita 9227C Grinding noise repair
I think the main problem is, that even if it is true, that some of these manuf. installed grease can vaporize on high heat (based on some feedbacks on that video), In my opinion most of the time these angle grinders are used only for a few seconds or minutes and the grease doesn't have time to warm up and get started vaporizing if it is true at all.
(Like when you want to clean up the area where you welded something, it doesn't take more than a minute most of the time.)
Of course, in many cases these angle grinders have been used all day and even regular GL2 grease will melt enough in those cases, but what about the home users who use it only occasionally, for a few minutes only - bone dry for years?
I had no oil leaks into the motor. There were a few drops that leaked out of the spindle, likely because I overfilled it a bit too much. After a few weeks that weeping stopped. I later replaced the oil with some GL0 grease that's a bit thicker than the worm drive lube and what I saw recommended in another thread.
And since you put GL0 grease in it, have you checked whether the gears in the housing are still wet (grease) or dry? BTW. what brand is that GL0 grease? So far I haven't found any.
This is the one I found:
www.classicchevy.com/champion-00-manual-steering-box-grease.html
Ahh, gotcha! This is an NLGI 00 grease, one grade harder than the softest grade 000. I live in Hungary, there is no way for me to get that nice Chevy grease, but I did find something with the same NLGI grade: metabond.eu/hu/termek/metabond-multi-ep00 and will give it a try.
Thanks for the info!
How do you remove the gear and pinion set from the feather key
good preventative maintenance. so much better than discarding a useable tool.
Yes, although I may have let it go too long as there was quite a bit of wear on the gear teeth. But I'll use that knowledge on future grinders and be sure to keep an eye on the lube inside.
@@The4Crawler thanks for your reply. What grease did you use. Big brand products from the tool manufacturers such as Dewalt are very expensive. Can you use the greases used in automotive as a cheaper alternative? Thanks Barry8082
Seems like lots of opinions out there:
www.garagejournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-223550.html
I ended up using some NGL00 grease:
amzn.to/2rxrVi6
never ever ever put something other than grease in the gearbox
You are stupid
Squanchy FapFap he’s kinda right, I it’s going to leak up when it gets warm. If you add a lot of grease you don’t need to worry about it pushing away from the gears.
Hello, does somebody know what kind of grease should I use on my table saw's stransmission gears? It was yellowish. My table saw is a Craftsman one from about 20 years ago.
Sounds like a white lithium grease, it usually has a light yellow color and darkens with age:
www.finewoodworking.com/forum/lubricant-for-table-saw-gears
Prefer for this type of gear drive a moly (mos2) grease. Molybdenum has the property to adhere to the surfaces and stay there and can deal with heavy pressure and heavy load.
And always leave some empty space. Dont overfill to avoid working temperature increase. Also grease need some free space to expand when it s temperature rise.
Good points.
Good job that you have clean the Gears. Only that oil.
Hmmmm. I'm afraid that this oil will leak through the axes and the bearings. It can come into the machine and make a mess of it.
The principle is that lubricating grease go melt when the machine gets warm or hot and to spread it into the gearbox.
I recommend to use lubricating grease.
I figured I would try this as an experiment. So far no problem with any leaks that I can see. If it proves to be an issue, it's simple to pour out the oil and refill with grease.
Suggestion use the Grinder for a big job so that it become good warm, than control if the grinder go leaking.
Whole point of grease it stays in its shape so no grease doesnt melt, its not pig lard. Even most basic lithium grease can handle more than 100C before dripping