LONGARM CUSTOM MACHINE QUILTING WITH RULERS - The Paper Pieced Medallion Quilt
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- I demonstrate Longarm Custom Quilting with Rulers and Free Motion fills on my client’s paper-pieced medallion quilt designed by Deb Karasik.
Rulers design by Michael Davison for Quarter Squared Quilt Co.
Rulers, Fabric, and Patterns
michaelquilts....
I am using Glide40 for top thread and Glide60 for bobbin thread.
Batting is one layer of Quilter's Dream Wool
CUSTOM QUILTING - BLOG - SHOP
www.michaelquilts.com
Background Music for Interior of Video Music by LegatoProMusic has been licensed through Audio Jungle/Envato.
Ending Titles Music by LegatoProMusic has been licensed through Audio Jungle/Envato.
I must say I do love the lateral leaders
Thank you thank you sew much!!!’
You are most welcome! Happy Quilting!!
Watching how you quilt, there isn't anything different I would do. I feel we are very similar in the way we see quilring
Made me feel good. Thank you
Hi Cheryl. Thanks so much for your comment! Nice to know!
Happy Quilting!
Michael
Браво!!! Английским не владею, но много интересного для себя узнада, благодарю. Regards from Russia.
I particularly liked the outline quilting you did, Michael. It adds a very elegant finish and hides some of the wobbles in the fabric. On your nice pebbles: do you change either thread weight or stitch length when pebbling? And what are your reasons for using 60wt in the bobbin?
Good question! I do not change thread weight on the majority of my quilting projects. However - if I am going to do very very small pebbling/micro quilting, I will. I typically use 40wt or 50wt on top, which is versatile enough for most situations. As far as the bobbin - I used to use the exact same thread in top and bobbin. I don't particularly like the look of thin quilting thread on the back if you can see it (solid backings). It bothers me less on busy backings. However - one day I needed a particular color thread for the back that I only had in 60wt thread. Something great happened when I switched. My tension found a "sweet spot" on my machine. The combination of thinner thread in bobbin means that it takes less top tension to pull it up, which in turn meant that I could loosed my top tension some. I stopped having thread shreds and breaks. This is when I started using this combination of threads as my go to. The other reason for thinner weight thread in bobbin is that I have fewer bobbins to fill. But really - tension is an art in itself. You can achieve great tension with any combination of threads if you spend some time with it. You have sparked me to create a tension video. I will put that on my list.
Happy Quilting!
Michael
I know this is a few months old. I am new t finding you. I also just got my longarm 4 weeks back. You are the first teacher that Is doing something I hope to be doing someday. You are working on the white, braking thread to skip the blue to not get any white in it. My (?) is can one stitch in place, like you are going to break the thread, but do not, can one just lift quilting foot drag a tell of thread to the next white spot stitch in place and keep moving in a circle, Clean up all the jump tells. I have done this to the quilt I am working on now. I roll the quilt back and forth to stay with one color and cut my running stitches on the back. Is this bad for the quilt? will the stitches stay in? This will not be a wall quilt.
Hi Karen! Thanks for your questions. I have done the "jumping" as mentioned and I like it. It doesn't come second nature to me, so I often forget about it. But I do use that technique sometimes. As long as you lock your stitches in place before the "jump" and after the "jump" it is no different, in my opinion, with how the quilt looks and behaves once you clip and trim the "jump" stitches. It saves times and makes complete sense. I know quilters who bury threads - and certainly for competition quilts you might want to do that (although there have been many ribbons awarded to longarm quilters who simply lock their stitches and trim close like we are talking about too) - but I am a complete fan of the locking stitches. So I saw go for it!
Michael
My machine does not like certain threads when I am quilting batik fabrics. Looks like you are having great luck with Glide on what looks to be batiks (but admittedly, they could be batik-like prints on regular fabric). BTW: I am thrilled with my new ruler set! So easy to use and these old eyes of mine can finally see laser marks clearly! Without a doubt, I will be replacing ALL of my long arm rulers over time. (And the fabrics I got are perfect!)
Hi Bonnie! Thanks for your comment. So glad you enjoy using my rulers and they are more friendly to your eyes (my eyes need friendliness too!)
This quilt was all batiks. You probably know batiks have a tighter weave and thread count than typical qiulting cotton. Definitely try using a new needle when longarming batiks. Also - there are different types of longarm needles. You always want one manufactured for high speed movement in all directions (MR), but then also look at the point of the needle. They are either labled FFG (Light ballpoint) or R (Regular point). Ideally we don't want to cut the threads of the cloth with our needle, we want the needle to find a way to get inside the weave. But sometimes batiks are hard for certain needles to get inside of the weave and it puts more stress on the thread within the needle. You might want to try one of the longarm needles with the "R" (regular) point that is sharper. I'm, not an expert by any means, but I have both and use both. The needle I used for this quilt was an R (regular sharp point) and not the FFG (light ballpoint) Maybe that is why I had no breakage or shreds???
Let me know how it goes!
-Michael
My thread kept shredding on the batik fabric … I had to change needle size down to 12…
Wonderful, and great quilting .which quilt pattern is this?
Hi Madhura. Thank you for your comment. I wish I could tell you the pattern name. My client did tell me that the designer is Deb Karasik. Google her and perhaps you will find this one or another that is similar that you may like too.
Happy Quilting!
Michael
Beautiful Quilt. You did an awesome job. I really enjoy watching your videos. I learn something every time!
Thanks so much, Stephanie! I have more footage to edit and post. Hope you enjoy what's coming up next!
Happy Quilting and Happy Holidays!
Michael
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much. Helps that it started out beautiful as soon as I took it out of the box shipped to me!
Thanks again!
-Michael
Nice work! That is alot of work. How do you charge your customer?
Hi Maryanne - thank you for your comment! For custom work, it varies. I give a general estimate figure of .05-.07 per square inch depending on how dense the quilting will be. Sometimes I charge by how many hours it may take. But my main goal is to be realistic with the customer and myselff to make sure it is a good value for both (negotiating).
Happy quilting!
Michael
I am enjoying watching and learning from you. The quilt turn out fabulous!
Hi Cyndie - I am so glad that you are enjoying and learning! more videos coming soon.
Thank You!
Michael
I have a question on ironing your seems. As far as for the quilting part of that seam goes, is it best to iron to one side or the other when you are stitching in the exact middle of the ditch. I have heard that if you press your seams open, and then stitch in the exact ditch then you have a chance of cutting the piecing thread and the seam coming undone. What have you found with regard to that issue? As always, I just love watching you quilt. Great Job!
Hi Dana! Sorry for delayed response. Over the years, I have gone back and forth on stitching in the ditch and what that means to me. When seams are pressed to one side, then the goal would be to stitch right next to that seam on the single layer side. Hopefully thread color and your overall plan for stitching work with that. Then there are quilt tops that are pressed open. These quilt tops offer the most flexibility in quilting and lay flatter in general. There is a risk if you try to stitch exactly in the seam of breaking the piecework thread. However if you think about needles for machine quilting and what they do to fabric itself, those concepts translate to the pieceing thread as well. Example: using a ballpoint needle for qulting forces the threads of the fabric to slide over as the needle goes through. using a sharp needle for quilting mostly forces the threads to slide over, but sometimes will puncture the fabric instead, therefore splitting the thread. if you use a ballpint needle and stitch exactly in the seam, you might be fine. This also depends on how short the stitch length of the piecing thread are, giving you lesser or greater chanced to split a thread. if you use a sharp needle and stitch exactly in the seam, your chance increases. While in the past, I liked the idea of stitching right in the seam, these days I prefer to stitch to the side of open seams. Even if I say "stitch in the ditch", what I mean is that I am outline blocks, shapes, etc. And when I choose which areas I am outlining, it is almost like doing a top-stich on garments. I purposely want to outline that shape one needle width from the actual seam. That is just my personal preference of how I quilt these days. I do not recommend stitching exactly in the seam, but I am not going to say you can't do that. Just another of the quilting debates. Does any of that help?
michael
Love your videos. Just ordered rulers today. Since I found your videos I’ve watched each one 2-3 times and I can see me watching them lots more. Thank you.
Hi Judy! Thanks for your nice comment. I shipped your rulers out this morning and hope you have a wonderful time using them! Keep me posted on your projects. I will be uploading more videos soon.
Happy Quilting!
Michael
Glad I found your channel. I am a hobby quilter and I have the Innova table top machine and I have found I cannot use the glide thread. The machine just shreds it. Any tips? I love the look of the thread and I have lots of it just sitting around, lol.
Hi Irene. I know machines can be very particular about the threads they like. However - I also think your machine should be able to use any thread you want to use. The probelm is making that happen...LOL. Okay, so for SHREDDING. If your thread is SHREDDING - Is it shredding near the needle or shredding and breaking higher up? The 2 main culprits for shredding are Top tension is too tight (tension discs putting too much tension on thread), in which you would want to loosen, but that may mean adjusting bobbin tension to compensate. The other reason for shredding is needle size too small or too big - then the long shot is a needle with a burr in it, but if you have tried glide with different needles, this probalby isn't the reason. If you are needing to adjust top tension - are you familiar with checking your check spring tension? I can give you some info on that, if you are not already aware of how that works in conjunction with the discs. Love to hear if changing tension works for you or not.
Good Luck!
-Michael
Have you tried the needle positioning magnet? I am not experienced enough to know if it really makes that difference, but maybe worth a try? Hoping Michael chimes in here! Glide is such a beautiful thread to use with that faint sheen to it.
Gorgeous!! Thank you for sharing this beauty! One of my many works in progress is a paper piecing pattern that involves a bunch of 16-pointed stars. I will remember your great tips! P. S. I have severe pebble envy.
Thanks so much, Denise! Pebble envy...LOL. Happy Quilting!
Thank you so much for talking about breaking thread to move to an area. Sometimes a little color showing is not ideal. Love your approach to breaking this all down. Thank you.
Did you manage to keep the teal colour in the bobbin for the whole quilt? Just a beautiful quilt, and your quilting really enhances it wonderfully 😊, thank you for sharing 👍.
Yes, I did end up keeping the same color in the bobbin throughout. I had good enough tension (or at least enough tension in the bobbin to keep it from popping up enough to be noticed). Thank you for your question. -Michael
I never stitch in the ditch and I teach my students not to as well. Its pure physics. You can split or fracture your thread that is holding your piecing together by stitching in the ditch, that will make your quilt weak when you split those threads and it will eventually come apart where you have split the thread. When you need to “stitch in the ditch” I stitch about one thread space out or one space in from your seam or “ditch”, just like you would do for a scant 1/4 in seam idea, the distance is so small it is not noticeable but it makes your quilt stronger and more serviceable because you are not fracturing your threads.
Thank you so much - you are correct. I think many people have different ideas of what the ditch is - and that is always heated. If I mentioned stitching right in the seam, I should probably retract that. My preferred is exactly what you said - a thread or so next to it, choosing which side you like the stiching to show. Thanks again. Happy Quilting!
Michael
I was taught that too J, but I do like stitching right in the ditch if I can as I often want that look. I hope the ditch stitching is just as likely to tack down the piecing stitch as it is to split the stitch thread, so fingers crossed it is a wash!
It appears that you are quilting on the "curb" instead of the ditch, to keep the color thread in the background. I think we've been taught to stitch in the ditch, avoiding the curb. You give me permission to "break the rules"
Hi Elsie! I love knowing the rules, then if I need to break them, I know what rules I am breaking. And of course - do what works for you! I definintely give you permission to break rules if it works for you and everyone is happy in the end! Happy New Year!