Cool video and projects. If you find your inner races spin, a light knurl or a few punches around the sides of your axle ends will make those bearings a press fit. Good job, big thumbs up!!!
Subscribed and liked. I am researching 2 x 72 grinders and really like Wayne's design for it's flexibility. I also like your modification and intend to build both the grinder and your small attachment. I have ordered Wayne's DVD and plans. Thanks for sharing. RUclips is the best training source in existence and you video makers, sharing your knowledge, are the reason. Keep it up. Ron
+RTOHIO Thanks! I like Wayne's grinder for the most part, but I have noticed by putting the heavier 10" wheel on there, it flexes/wiggles a little. I only notice it when I'm hollow grinding with the big wheel extended out front, so I've added a little cross brace to one of the uprights on mine since this video. But, it is an easy grinder to build and very cheap to put together. Good luck with yours.
+RTOHIO Thanks for the response. I am also going to use a Grizzly 10" wheel and would like to make a 10" platten. You mentioned that you changed some dimensions. Can you tell me which ones. Should I make the rotating assembly out of heavier material. Other grinders use heavier tubing to mount the tool rests. Is your tool rests heavy enough to be stable?
RTOHIO Yeah, I lengthened the distance between the 2" wheel and the 10" wheel from his plans. Partly to account for a bigger contact wheel and partly so I could make my platen longer. I agree with your plan for a 10" platen, pretty much what I did. Where mine flexed a little was mainly the uprights that the tool arm connects to. I added a brace on the motor side of mine to the rear upright and it made it a lot stiffer. I wasn't horrible before, just shook a little at high speed with the big wheel out front.
+RTOHIO Great information, thanks so much for your time. I have some scrap 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing that I was thinking of using for the frame uprights. The 1/2" square angles that support the tool bar seem light to me. Do you think beefing up the frame would make it too heavy.
RTOHIO I don't think you can build a grinder too heavy! The 1/2" angles seem ok, just make sure the tool arm sits flat in them. Sometimes when you're welding, things move and lift... I actually welded them on and later in the build cut them off, had to redo them because one canted a little. It was letting the tool arm rock a little. No big deal, caught it early on and it only took a minute to fix.
Well, I now have a new project to do that will keep me busy! I am just now finishing building my grinder, this will be a perfect addition to it. Great job, thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate your video!! Great information. I'm building a 2x72 right now and was wanting to include a small wheel attachment, and your video really helped give me the last big of confidence to build the attachment! Thank you!
+Belnap Custom Knives Works great for me, just remember, keep the rpms down from where you normally grind or you'll overheat the bearings. Those little wheels see a lot of rpm.
Hey bloke you are what we call a bogan in Australia and that is a good thing I have learnt so much from you I can't wait to see all your videos thanks from Bear down under
If you wanted different diameters, you can get urethane tube of varying thickness and diameter (and hardness) from ebay. I plan to use some for wheel tires on my mobile steel work benches. The inner core will be cast aluminum and skateboard bearings.
Cool idea! I had Sunray make me a small diameter contact wheel 3/4" with bearings they make some nice custom idler/contact wheels etc prices aren't too bad either.
+Jim Hinson Thanks. I've heard of Sunray, but never priced anything. I wonder how much they'd charge to put rubber on a 10" contact wheel? Or maybe a 20"?
awesome belt grinder! I'm building mine at the moment, so many great ideas to glean. Fyi, if you freeze the rubber, you can machine it frozen a lot easier!
a small tip if the bearing slips off the axle just put a couple of punch marks on the axle and the upsetting should remove the play between the shaft and the bearing.
Nice Job.. Got the parts on order for the todo bin.. Ha.. Flanged sealed bearing (FR8-RS2) is the part number and the are still $12.99 across the pond, or $25+ if you feel patriotic.. Great Idea.. Glad you jumped in there and made it work.. Probably saved some time drilling and boring the hole vs the woodruff route... Guess I get to give it a shot on a pressed fit too.. Doubt my odds will be as good as yours, but, Loctite or pinging the shaft will work just fine.. Brand new to me Microlux Mill and Lathe.. Shame. Got it in March and have not had time to play yet.. Really like your video style, thinking outloud and laying it out.. Thanks for the videos.. Smoky Mountain Knife works is always a favorite stop when I run up that way for a break.. Cheers..
+Ken Ray The wheel is a replacement wheel for their knife grinder. Here's the model number: Grizzly G9242 - 10" Aluminum /Rubber Wheel For G1015 But, just a reminder, it doesn't have bearings in it, I cut the bearing pockets on a lathe.
Loved the video fixin to order my parts to build the small wheel adapter. Gonna convert my platen set up to something similar to yours. Looked at lots before I built mine and somehow missed that design. But will sure incorporate into mine in the near future
With a 1/2 inch axle and say a one inch diameter... you would have 1/4 inch of rubber around the axle. Isn't that too much give? wouldn't you want to make your wheels out of steel, or aluminum for less squishyness? Not trying to be deek, I don't know. I've built a homemade 2x72, and I only have a platen arrangement, but I'll be building a small wheel set, and I had planned on making the wheels out of steel, likely A36 or 1018, I have a bunch of it lying around already. I also have a bunch of 6061-T6 in my stock pile, so if the wheel can be softer, then I'll use the aluminum, since its so much easier to work. I use 4130 as my axle material. I have some 1/2 inch I.D. ball bearings, and some 3/8th inch ball bearings, but I'll likely go with the bigger bearings. Mine is based on this design dcknives.blogspot.com/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html Your grinder has a lot of cool features, and configurations. If you get your od on your shaft a little too small, you can dimple the metal with a punch and that will take up the clearance. I've used a tubing cutter to push up a ridge in the past on an undersized bearing seat. You could knurl it too, but that would increase the diameter by a lot. You could also under cut the size and make a sleeve. If it's close, aluminum foil could shim it. Finally, and in this case, not really an option, but there's loctite.
I don't know exactly what durometer a contact wheel should be, but these seem fine to me. I kept one solid and I like the rubber ones a lot better. You get tons of belt bump on the solids. The rubber grinds a lot smoother. You should try both, then decide. Let us know how yours turn out, good luck.
Hey Anthony. I watched this video several months ago and really liked the method you used. I'm finally ready to start building one. Now that you've been using it for a while, is there anything you would do different?
I'm really happy with it, use it a ton! Man, I really don't think I would change anything about the wheels or the holder. I have been daydreaming about a whole new grinder though, lol.
@@SelfMadeProject Thanks. I'll proceed on with my build. Yes...that grinder envy thing can grab hold of you. I built my a couple of years ago and I'm still enjoying it. It's just a hobby for me. Btw. I enjoy your videos. You're really good at it and being from Arkansas too, I speak your language. Ha
I don't have any wobble in mine. Maybe I was a little lazy using it, but works great. If you're a good machinist, might be better to just make your axles. I'm an amateur self taught machinist, so sometimes I take the easy road :)
I'm not.. I'm a total novice. I'm aiming to pick up a South Bend 13 in a couple days, and I HATE my 2x72... So I'm also buying a kit like the Oregon Blademaker and I'm just going to make my own attachments for it.
Yeah, I've been hearing a few people talk about those new grinders. Haven't seen one in person, but they look pretty good in the videos. I'm getting the itch to build another one. I built this one after making only one knife by hand, so if I were to start over, there would probably be a few things different now.
The Oregon Blademaker is really a perfect 2x72 especially if you're capable of making your own tooling for it. I bought a fancy aluminum one with some fancy design for the tooling connections, and it's basically impossible to put my own attachments on it and their attachments are unreasonably priced. If I knew more about wiring my own motors and stuff like that at the time, I'd do it all different.
Guy named Wayne Coe sells them. He's a blacksmith and knife maker, google him. I will say, this grinder is a great "starter" grinder, easy to build, low cost, and works ok. It's not super stiff or heavy which you will start to notice after you get good at grinding, probably 50 knives or so. The tool rest design also isn't super stiff, you can't just lay down on it or it'll flex. If you get his plans, I would recommend using bigger round bar for the tool rest system, maybe 3/4" or even 1".
It's called a boring head. It will allow you to make much bigger holes and pockets pretty accurately. I only have drill bits up to 1", so anything bigger, I mill out with the boring head. It doesn't remove material really fast, so you try to get the hole close to final size first.
Self Made thanks for letting me know. And I guess you're using the boring head on a drill press rather than a mill. Anyhow the small wheel attachment turned out real nice.
No, Kenneth it's in a mill. A drill press isn't designed for the side loads that a boring head or end mill would put on the bearings. The milling machine I'm using is a mid-sized Jet knee mill. If you don't have a mill, you might be able to use a hole saw. Or, even yet, you could rough it out and hand finish with files. Thanks for checking it out.
What is the name of the free CAD program you use? Thank you for the video. I am making an attachment for my grinder but was lost when I started looking for parts to use for the small contact wheels.
Peter Scott for 2D cad I use Draftsight, it's great. For 3D, I use Fusion 360 which is also free to hobbyists. Actually, a person would ahead in a lot of ways to just start with Fusion, but there's a lot more to lean!
The belt is under tension by a spring and stays centered due to a crowned tracking wheel. That keeps the belt on in any position. Thanks for checking it out.
Going by the drawing, looks like they were 1.125" od and 0.5"id. The ground rod scrap I used was actually just a tad over 0.5" but I turned it down to fit. Pause the vid at 7:37 to see the drawings.
Great job , I did email Wayne to see if he is still interested in selling plans. I may need to reach out to you or him once I get started for some tips. After watch a lot of videos everybody seems to make a big deal out of vibration and testing with a dime on the tool rest. What is that all about?
Well, all machines are nicer to use when everything is balanced and smooth. For knife making, you want a belt that tracks well with no side to side wobble. A lot of times you're trying to finesse or polish a tiny area and bad vibrations or wobble could introduce some errors. My opinion, build it as nice as you can and it'll be fine. Keeping everything plumb and square and solidly built will take of most of it.
I think this one has it roots in the Midwest Knifemaker NWG (no weld grinder), but a guy name Wayne Coe came up with this version. If you have a welder, this one is really easy to build and he sells plans for it. You can google his name and find his blacksmith site.
Self Made ok thank u very much I've been looking at different grinders and came across a video of u showing how u can spin the Platten around to use the bigger contact wheel and new that's the on I want to build but I can't seem to find that video now thanks for taking time to reply back
I think I showed that in the middle of this video. This grinder is easy to build and I'd say is a good one to start with, it's not perfect, but it'll do most anything. I've tweaked mine a few times here and there, mainly make it a little more rigid, but overall it's been great.
Awesome! Use them all the time. But, if you think about it, usually when your using a small wheel, your not hogging off lots of material. At least I don't.
You can filter the audio with Noise Reduction filter or Noise Removal filter in Audacity. Quite simple and doesn't take very long to do, freeware app so don't need to spend extra money! www.podfeet.com/blog/recording/how-to-remove-noise-with-audacity/
Excellent design. Perfect timing as I'm just about to make mine & this idea by far the simplest & most practical of all I've seen.
Thanks for sharing.
Bravo! Well done.
Nice job on the grinder, too.
Thanks!
Cool video and projects. If you find your inner races spin, a light knurl or a few punches around the sides of your axle ends will make those bearings a press fit. Good job, big thumbs up!!!
Subscribed and liked. I am researching 2 x 72 grinders and really like Wayne's design for it's flexibility. I also like your modification and intend to build both the grinder and your small attachment. I have ordered Wayne's DVD and plans. Thanks for sharing. RUclips is the best training source in existence and you video makers, sharing your knowledge, are the reason. Keep it up.
Ron
+RTOHIO Thanks! I like Wayne's grinder for the most part, but I have noticed by putting the heavier 10" wheel on there, it flexes/wiggles a little. I only notice it when I'm hollow grinding with the big wheel extended out front, so I've added a little cross brace to one of the uprights on mine since this video. But, it is an easy grinder to build and very cheap to put together. Good luck with yours.
+RTOHIO Thanks for the response. I am also going to use a Grizzly 10" wheel and would like to make a 10" platten. You mentioned that you changed some dimensions. Can you tell me which ones. Should I make the rotating assembly out of heavier material. Other grinders use heavier tubing to mount the tool rests. Is your tool rests heavy enough to be stable?
RTOHIO Yeah, I lengthened the distance between the 2" wheel and the 10" wheel from his plans. Partly to account for a bigger contact wheel and partly so I could make my platen longer. I agree with your plan for a 10" platen, pretty much what I did. Where mine flexed a little was mainly the uprights that the tool arm connects to. I added a brace on the motor side of mine to the rear upright and it made it a lot stiffer. I wasn't horrible before, just shook a little at high speed with the big wheel out front.
+RTOHIO Great information, thanks so much for your time. I have some scrap 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing that I was thinking of using for the frame uprights. The 1/2" square angles that support the tool bar seem light to me. Do you think beefing up the frame would make it too heavy.
RTOHIO I don't think you can build a grinder too heavy! The 1/2" angles seem ok, just make sure the tool arm sits flat in them. Sometimes when you're welding, things move and lift... I actually welded them on and later in the build cut them off, had to redo them because one canted a little. It was letting the tool arm rock a little. No big deal, caught it early on and it only took a minute to fix.
Well, I now have a new project to do that will keep me busy! I am just now finishing building my grinder, this will be a perfect addition to it. Great job, thanks for sharing!
+Dave Fullenwider Thanks! Hope it gives you some ideas that will help.
Very nice machine, I like the way you can flip the small wheel holder with the large wheel. I need to get a large wheel for my Wilmont grinder.
Very good video, helpful. You have a good style for delivering the information. I bet you teach at work.
+Nick Abbott Thanks!
I really appreciate your video!! Great information. I'm building a 2x72 right now and was wanting to include a small wheel attachment, and your video really helped give me the last big of confidence to build the attachment! Thank you!
Cool! It's not that hard, when you start building you'll figure it all out. Heck, probably improve on it even!
Great info. I am totally going to do this for my sander. I have been wanting some smaller wheels.
+Belnap Custom Knives Works great for me, just remember, keep the rpms down from where you normally grind or you'll overheat the bearings. Those little wheels see a lot of rpm.
Great video. I just finished up a set of these. Work great!!
Hey bloke you are what we call a bogan in Australia and that is a good thing I have learnt so much from you
I can't wait to see all your videos thanks from Bear down under
Thanks, ordered the bearings and the rubber sleeves. Thanks for sharing. This will be something that will get a lot of use.
+Chuck Brooks Good luck! I love mine.
If I could like this more than once, I certainly would. Great idea and execution, I will be applying this idea in the future for sure.
Thanks, hope it gave you some ideas.
no sir, thank you
Great video Think I'll do the same for my 2X72. Thanks
Excellent job.
Buddy you make a damn fine video. Thank you.
+marksstudio Thanks!
If you wanted different diameters, you can get urethane tube of varying thickness and diameter (and hardness) from ebay. I plan to use some for wheel tires on my mobile steel work benches. The inner core will be cast aluminum and skateboard bearings.
Cool idea! I had Sunray make me a small diameter contact wheel 3/4" with bearings they make some nice custom idler/contact wheels etc prices aren't too bad either.
+Jim Hinson Thanks. I've heard of Sunray, but never priced anything. I wonder how much they'd charge to put rubber on a 10" contact wheel? Or maybe a 20"?
+Self Made I'd Email them. They are super cool about working with ya not sure if they would but don't see why not. unless for liability reasons.
Great Build !! ... Well Explained ... Thanks for the Video! Much Success to You!
Thanks!
the best Self Made. i WANT TO MAKE A ONE!!
+Javi Pérez Thanks!
awesome belt grinder! I'm building mine at the moment, so many great ideas to glean. Fyi, if you freeze the rubber, you can machine it frozen a lot easier!
Awesome idea! Thanks.
Mike Bergman I
a small tip if the bearing slips off the axle just put a couple of punch marks on the axle and the upsetting should remove the play between the shaft and the bearing.
Nice Job.. Got the parts on order for the todo bin.. Ha.. Flanged sealed bearing (FR8-RS2) is the part number and the are still $12.99 across the pond, or $25+ if you feel patriotic.. Great Idea.. Glad you jumped in there and made it work.. Probably saved some time drilling and boring the hole vs the woodruff route... Guess I get to give it a shot on a pressed fit too.. Doubt my odds will be as good as yours, but, Loctite or pinging the shaft will work just fine.. Brand new to me Microlux Mill and Lathe.. Shame. Got it in March and have not had time to play yet.. Really like your video style, thinking outloud and laying it out.. Thanks for the videos.. Smoky Mountain Knife works is always a favorite stop when I run up that way for a break.. Cheers..
Great video. Where did you get the 10" contact wheel. Grizzly say the don't sell one, only a drive wheel.
+Ken Ray The wheel is a replacement wheel for their knife grinder. Here's the model number: Grizzly G9242 - 10" Aluminum /Rubber Wheel For G1015 But, just a reminder, it doesn't have bearings in it, I cut the bearing pockets on a lathe.
Very nice grinder!
Thanks.
Loved the video fixin to order my parts to build the small wheel adapter. Gonna convert my platen set up to something similar to yours. Looked at lots before I built mine and somehow missed that design. But will sure incorporate into mine in the near future
Cool! Hope it gave you some ideas, good luck!
that's a nice way to do it thanks
Dude,that was soooo cool. thank you for a great video.
Thanks!
Thank you. Great tip pass-along.
Thanks for checking it out.
With a 1/2 inch axle and say a one inch diameter... you would have 1/4 inch of rubber around the axle. Isn't that too much give? wouldn't you want to make your wheels out of steel, or aluminum for less squishyness? Not trying to be deek, I don't know. I've built a homemade 2x72, and I only have a platen arrangement, but I'll be building a small wheel set, and I had planned on making the wheels out of steel, likely A36 or 1018, I have a bunch of it lying around already. I also have a bunch of 6061-T6 in my stock pile, so if the wheel can be softer, then I'll use the aluminum, since its so much easier to work. I use 4130 as my axle material. I have some 1/2 inch I.D. ball bearings, and some 3/8th inch ball bearings, but I'll likely go with the bigger bearings. Mine is based on this design
dcknives.blogspot.com/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html
Your grinder has a lot of cool features, and configurations.
If you get your od on your shaft a little too small, you can dimple the metal with a punch and that will take up the clearance. I've used a tubing cutter to push up a ridge in the past on an undersized bearing seat. You could knurl it too, but that would increase the diameter by a lot. You could also under cut the size and make a sleeve. If it's close, aluminum foil could shim it. Finally, and in this case, not really an option, but there's loctite.
I don't know exactly what durometer a contact wheel should be, but these seem fine to me. I kept one solid and I like the rubber ones a lot better. You get tons of belt bump on the solids. The rubber grinds a lot smoother. You should try both, then decide. Let us know how yours turn out, good luck.
Great video and thanks for the details, couldnt help but hit that subscribe button. JD green would have been better **
+plumley25aaron HA! I'm kind of sentimental about my old 8N Ford though. Thanks.
Where did you get the rubber covering at a good price? Good video - thanks for posting. Ken H>
Ken H rubber came from ereplacementparts.com. You can look there for replacement rubber for a Rigid oscillating spindle sander.
Hey Anthony. I watched this video several months ago and really liked the method you used. I'm finally ready to start building one. Now that you've been using it for a while, is there anything you would do different?
I'm really happy with it, use it a ton! Man, I really don't think I would change anything about the wheels or the holder. I have been daydreaming about a whole new grinder though, lol.
@@SelfMadeProject Thanks. I'll proceed on with my build. Yes...that grinder envy thing can grab hold of you. I built my a couple of years ago and I'm still enjoying it. It's just a hobby for me. Btw. I enjoy your videos. You're really good at it and being from Arkansas too, I speak your language. Ha
Awesome, simple design. Definitely going to be one of my first lathe projects. Is the copper clad round enough to grab and go without wobble?
I don't have any wobble in mine. Maybe I was a little lazy using it, but works great. If you're a good machinist, might be better to just make your axles. I'm an amateur self taught machinist, so sometimes I take the easy road :)
I'm not.. I'm a total novice. I'm aiming to pick up a South Bend 13 in a couple days, and I HATE my 2x72... So I'm also buying a kit like the Oregon Blademaker and I'm just going to make my own attachments for it.
Yeah, I've been hearing a few people talk about those new grinders. Haven't seen one in person, but they look pretty good in the videos. I'm getting the itch to build another one. I built this one after making only one knife by hand, so if I were to start over, there would probably be a few things different now.
The Oregon Blademaker is really a perfect 2x72 especially if you're capable of making your own tooling for it. I bought a fancy aluminum one with some fancy design for the tooling connections, and it's basically impossible to put my own attachments on it and their attachments are unreasonably priced. If I knew more about wiring my own motors and stuff like that at the time, I'd do it all different.
Very nice, thanks for sharing,
Thanks! Hope it helps a little.
Use a lil Loctite 248 to retain the bearing.Staking is for...well.AR rattletraps ;-)
Good tip, I'll have to check it out. Staking also works great for vampires.
Hi sir. That's an awesome upgrade you made. Where did you get the plans for your grinder if you don't mind me asking.
Guy named Wayne Coe sells them. He's a blacksmith and knife maker, google him. I will say, this grinder is a great "starter" grinder, easy to build, low cost, and works ok. It's not super stiff or heavy which you will start to notice after you get good at grinding, probably 50 knives or so. The tool rest design also isn't super stiff, you can't just lay down on it or it'll flex. If you get his plans, I would recommend using bigger round bar for the tool rest system, maybe 3/4" or even 1".
Great video. Can you tell me what tool you used at 16m 32s in. Is it for deburring?
It's called a boring head. It will allow you to make much bigger holes and pockets pretty accurately. I only have drill bits up to 1", so anything bigger, I mill out with the boring head. It doesn't remove material really fast, so you try to get the hole close to final size first.
Self Made thanks for letting me know. And I guess you're using the boring head on a drill press rather than a mill. Anyhow the small wheel attachment turned out real nice.
No, Kenneth it's in a mill. A drill press isn't designed for the side loads that a boring head or end mill would put on the bearings. The milling machine I'm using is a mid-sized Jet knee mill. If you don't have a mill, you might be able to use a hole saw. Or, even yet, you could rough it out and hand finish with files. Thanks for checking it out.
Self Made - thanks for the explanation. Man, I have to find the funds and space for a mill now! :)
Good job
Thanks!
In the middle of making this right now, did you use 5/8 or 1/2 ground rod for the axles?
It's a weird size, between 1/2" and 5/8". The drawing I had was 0.5625. The rubber was too loose on 1/2" for me.
What is the name of the free CAD program you use? Thank you for the video. I am making an attachment for my grinder but was lost when I started looking for parts to use for the small contact wheels.
Peter Scott for 2D cad I use Draftsight, it's great. For 3D, I use Fusion 360 which is also free to hobbyists. Actually, a person would ahead in a lot of ways to just start with Fusion, but there's a lot more to lean!
my like! fron brazil
+Daniel OIiveira Thanks!
friend engine you used, how many hp and rotation, aguardo brother
Its a 3 phase 1 hp motor. I'm using a variable frequency drive, so it will run in either rotation, forward or reverse.
When you turn it on its side, how does the belt not slide off?
The belt is under tension by a spring and stays centered due to a crowned tracking wheel. That keeps the belt on in any position. Thanks for checking it out.
Hi the copper clad is it 5/8 in size ? And what size are the bearings ?
Going by the drawing, looks like they were 1.125" od and 0.5"id. The ground rod scrap I used was actually just a tad over 0.5" but I turned it down to fit. Pause the vid at 7:37 to see the drawings.
Self Made Project thank you going to make this soon
Good job thanks
Thanks, hope it gave you some ideas.
Great job , I did email Wayne to see if he is still interested in selling plans. I may need to reach out to you or him once I get started for some tips. After watch a lot of videos everybody seems to make a big deal out of vibration and testing with a dime on the tool rest. What is that all about?
Well, all machines are nicer to use when everything is balanced and smooth. For knife making, you want a belt that tracks well with no side to side wobble. A lot of times you're trying to finesse or polish a tiny area and bad vibrations or wobble could introduce some errors. My opinion, build it as nice as you can and it'll be fine. Keeping everything plumb and square and solidly built will take of most of it.
Self Made hi self just wondering is ur grinder the on that Midwest knifes sells the plans for or is urs a different set of plans
I think this one has it roots in the Midwest Knifemaker NWG (no weld grinder), but a guy name Wayne Coe came up with this version. If you have a welder, this one is really easy to build and he sells plans for it. You can google his name and find his blacksmith site.
Self Made ok thank u very much I've been looking at different grinders and came across a video of u showing how u can spin the Platten around to use the bigger contact wheel and new that's the on I want to build but I can't seem to find that video now thanks for taking time to reply back
I think I showed that in the middle of this video. This grinder is easy to build and I'd say is a good one to start with, it's not perfect, but it'll do most anything. I've tweaked mine a few times here and there, mainly make it a little more rigid, but overall it's been great.
nice.... thanks
Thank you.
How are these holding up?
Awesome! Use them all the time. But, if you think about it, usually when your using a small wheel, your not hogging off lots of material. At least I don't.
Nice........
Thanks! I was just grinding with them last night!
You can filter the audio with Noise Reduction filter or Noise Removal filter in Audacity.
Quite simple and doesn't take very long to do, freeware app so don't need to spend extra money!
www.podfeet.com/blog/recording/how-to-remove-noise-with-audacity/
+Murlockingqc Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.